Part 16
But in this plot they were farre disappointed by an unhappy Pilot of the Vice-admirall, who mistaking the Port, went into a wrong bay: which the Florentines considering, resolved to returne, and keepe the sea, till the second night; but by a dead calme, they were frustrated of their aymes, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: Whereupon the Turkes went presently to armes, & charged the Inhabitants to come to defend that place: But about foure hundred Greekes in the West part, at Paphos, rebelled; thinking that time had altered their hard fortunes, by a new change: but alas, they were prevented, & every one cut off by the bloody hands of the Turkes. This massacre was committed in the yeare 1607. Such alwaies are the torturing flames of Fortunes smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most, and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord, shall be as stable as Mount Syon, which cannot be removed; and questionlesse, one day God, in his all-eternall mercie, will relieve their miseries, and in his just judgements, recompence these bloody oppressors with the heavy vengeance of his all-seeing Justice.
In my returne from Nicosia, to Famogusta, with my Trench-man, we encountered by the way with foure Turkes, who needs would have my Mule to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a revenge, pulled me by thee heeles from the Mules backe, beating me most pittifully, and left me almost for dead. In this meanewhile my companion fled, and escaped the sceleratnesse of their hands; and if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes, who by accident came by, and relieved me, I had doubtlesse immediately perished.
Here I remember betweene this Ile and Sydon that same Summer, there were five galleouns of the Duke of [A sea cumbat.] Florence, who encountred by chance the Turkes great Armado consisting of 100. gallies, 14. galleots, and two galleasses: The Admirall of which ships did single out her selfe from the rest, and offered to fight with the whole Armado alone; but the Turkes durst not, and in their flying backe, the Admirall sunke two of their gallies; and had almost seazed upon one of their galleasses, if it had not beene for 20. gallies, who desperatly adventured to row her away against the wind and so escaped.
For true it is, the naturall Turkes were never skilfull in menaging of Sea battells, neither are they expert Mariners, nor experimented Gunners, if it were not for our Christian Runnagates, French, English, and Flemings, and they too sublime, accurate, and desperate fellowes; who have taught the Turkes the airt of navigation, and especially the use of munition; which they both cast to them, & then become their chiefe Cannoniers; the Turkes would be as weake and ignorant at sea, as the silly Æthiopian, is unexpert in handling of armes on the Land. [Christiane Runagates.] For the private humour of discontented castawayes is alwaies an enemy to publicke good, who from the society of true beleevers, are driven to the servitude of Infidells, and refusing the bridle of Christian correction, they receive the double yoake of dispaire and condemnation. Whose terrour of a guilty conscience, or rather blazing brand of their vexed soules, in forsaking their Faith, and denying Christ to be their Saviour, ramverts most of them, either over in a torment of melancholy, otherwise in the extasie of madnesse: which indeed is a torturing horrour, that is sooner felt then knowne; and cannot be avoided by the rudenesse of nature, but by the saving grace of true felicity.
[The City of Tripoly.] From the Fort and City Famogusta, I imbarked in a Germo, and arrived at Tripoly being 88. miles distant, where I met with an English ship called the Royall Exchange of London, lying there at Anker in the dangerous Road of Tripoly, whose loves I cannot easily forget, for at my last good night, being after great cheare, and greater carrousing, they gave me the thundring farewell of three pieces of Ordonance. Tripoly is a City in Syria, standing a mile from the marine side, neere to the foot of Mount Libanus: since it hath beene first founded, it hath three times beene situated, and removed in three sundry places: First it was overwhelmed with water: Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates: Thirdly, it is like now to be overthrowne with new made mountaines of sand: There is no haven by many miles neere unto it, but a dangerous roade, where often when Northerly winds blow, ships are cast away.
[Scanderona.] The great Traffique which now is at this place, was formerly at Scanderona or Alexandretta, a little more Eastward; but by reason of the infectious ayre, that corrupted the bloud of strangers, proceeding of two high Mountaines; who are supposed to be a part of Mount Caucasus, which withhold the prospect of the Sunne from the In-dwellers, more then three howers in the morning. So that in my knowledge, I have knowne dye in one ship, and a moneths time, twenty Marriners: for this cause the Christian ships were glad to have their commodities brought to Tripoly, which is a more wholesome and convenient place.
The dayly interrogation I had here, for a Carravans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindfull to visite Babylon: In this my expectation I tooke purpose, with three Venetian Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes journey thither. As we ascended upon the mountaine, our ignorant guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Laborinth of dangers; Insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rockes: two of our Asses fell over a banke, and broke their neckes: And if it had not bene for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountred with us, in our wilesome wandring, we had bene miserably lost: both in regard of Rockes, and heapes of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents, which fell downe with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When we arrived [The Cedars of Libanus.] to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty foure of all, growing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deale taler, straighter, and greater, and the braunches grow so straight, and interlocking as though they were kept by Arte. And yet from the Roote to the toppe they beare no boughes, but grow straight upward, like to a Palme-tree; who as may-poles invelope the ayre, so their circle spred tops, do kisse or enhance the lower cloudes; making their grandure over-looke the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees: and like Monarchick Lyons to wild beasts, they become the chiefe Champions of Forrests and Woods.
Although that in the dayes of Salomon, this mountaine was over-clad with Forrests of Cedars, yet now there are but onely these, and nine miles Westward thence, seventeene more. The nature of that tree is alwayes greene, yeelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruite like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, and more wholesome in digestion. The Rootes of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by Sheepheards, who have made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sleepe; yet neverthelesse they flourish greene above in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about forty miles, reaching from the West, to the East: and continually, Summer and Winter, reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage, Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the best Wine that is bred on the earth. [The Prince of Libanus.] The Signior thereof is a Freeholder, by birth a Turke, and will not acknowledge any superiour, being the youngest sonne of the Emeere or Prince of Sidon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet, and not being able to make his owne part good, fled into Italy, to the Duke of Florence: And notwithstanding that the elder brother yeelded up Sidon, and became a pardond subject to the great Turke: yet this the other brother would never yeeld nor surrender, himselfe, the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The olde Prince his father after two yeares exile, was restored againe to his Emperours favour; with whom in my second Travels, both at Lygorne and Messina in Sicilee, I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdomes Viceroy, caused transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion from Jerusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim, now called Phenicia, as I shall make more cleere afterwards.
The most part of the inhabited villages are Christians, [Nestorians.] called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are governed by their owne Patriarke. There are none at this day, do speake the Syriack tongue, save onely these people of mount Libanus; and in that language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The kinde Amaronite whom we met, and tooke with us for our best guide, in descending from the Cedars shewed us many caves and Holes in Rockes, where Coliers, religious Siriens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these austere Cottages, I saw [Joshuas Tombe.] a faire Tombe all of one stone, being 17. foote of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulcher of the valiant Joshua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land of promise.
The Mahometans esteeme this to be a holy place, and many resort to it in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanicall Prayers to Mahomet. I saw upon this Mountaine, a sort of fruite, called Amazza Franchi: that is, The death of Christians; because when Italians, and others of Europe, eate any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy fluxe, or else ingender some other pestilentious fever, whereof they dye.
The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine us at his house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other Villages, who met us in our way before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figges, Olives, Sallets, Capons, Egges, and such like, as they could on a sudden provide.
[The Bishop of Eden on Libanus.] This Bishop or Patriarkes house, is joyned with and hembd in, within the face of an high Rocke, that serveth for three sides thereof, the fore and fourth part being onely of Mason-worke: Neare unto which falleth precipitatly a great Torrent over the sassinous banke, that maketh a greivous noyse night and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turne the Bishop Surdo or starke deafe: But the homely and simple man (not puft with ambition greed, and glorious apparrell, like to our proud Prelats of Christendome) told me, that continuall custome brought him to despose upon the day, and sleepe better in the night, because of the sounding waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning saluted Libanus with these lines.
Long and large Mount, whose rich-spred mantle, see! Affords three colours, to my wandring eye; The first are Cornes, in their expectant view, Faire Barley, Rye, and Wheate; O hopefull hew! That quickneth the prest plough: and for to eat, It makes new toyle, begin againe to sweat: The second sight are Wines, the best on earth, And most delicious in their pleasant birth; They're Phisicall, and good t'expell all sorts Of burning Feavers, in their violent torts: Which Senators of Venice, drinke for health, There's nought so rare, but is attaind by wealth. The third is amiable, O verdure greene! For pastorage, the best that can be seene; Drawne nigh the tops, where fire-worne Cedars grow, And here, or there, some cooling spots of snow: Whence Rills doe spring and speedy Torrents fall To loose scorchd floures, that burning heat would thrall: Here heards frequent, whose pleasant toyles doe rest Of mountaines all, on Liban, onely best: Where piping Pan, and Silvan doe accord, To lurke with Ceres, and make Bacchus Lord; Pitch'd under silent shades; whence Eden Towne These bounds for Paradice, dare firmely crowne: And last, to count these colours; here's delite, The fields are greene, wines yellow, cornes as white.
[The Nestorian paradice.] About the Village of Eden, is the most fruitfull part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious fruits. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly people thinke, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegeance, they approve the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these arguments, that Mount Libanus is sequestrate from the circum-jacent Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in Rocks; and that Eden was still reedified by the fugitive Inhabitants, when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirme before the deluge it was so nominate, and after the flood it was repaired againe by Japhet, the sonne of Noah, who builded Joppa, or Japhta in Palestina. Loe there are the reasons they shew strangers for such like informations.
[The Georgians Paradice.]
There are with this one, other two supposed places of the earthly Paradice: The one is by the Turkes, and some ignorant Georgians, holden to be at Damascus, for the beauty of faire fields, gardens, and excellent fruits there; especially for the tree called [The Tree Mouslee.] Mouslee, which they beleeve hath growne there since the beginning of the world. Indeed it is a rare and singular tree, for I saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, upon Nylus in Ægypt: The growth whereof is strange: for every yeare in September it is cut downe hard by the roote, and in five moneths the tree buddeth up a pace againe, bringing forth leaves, flowers, and fruite. The leafe thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger then a foot-ball, which is yearely transported for Constantinople to the great Turke; and there is reserved for a relict of the fruit of the forbidden tree; whence he surstyles himselfe keeper of the earthly Paradice.
But if he were not surer a greater commander and reserver of a large part of the best bosome of the earth, than he is keeper of that Adamian Garden; his styles of the earth, and mine of the world, were both alike, and that were just nothing, save onely this, two naked creatures living amongst naked people: or otherwise, if it were to be kept or seene, certainely I would wish to be a Postillion, to the great Porter, the Turke, but not his Pedagog, farre lesse his Pilgrime.
[The Chelfane Paradice.] The third place by the Chelfaines, is thought to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, neere to the joyning of Tygris, and Euphrates; where, so they inhabite: I have oft required of these Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who answered me, they received it from time to time, by the tradition of their Ancestors: And because of the river Euphrates, and other rivers mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detayne their names in that Countrey. Some hold, that Garden of Eden extended over all the earth. But contrariwise, it manifestly appeareth by the second Chapter of Genesis, 2. 20. that this garden, that we call Paradice, wherein Adam was put to dresse it, was a certaine place on earth, containing a particular portion of a Countrey, called Eden, which boundeth on the river Euphrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer, no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by reading or travelling, because this river hath beene oft divided in sundry streames: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he wonne Babylon, did turne the maine channell of Euphrates to another course. But howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve my selfe, no man can demonstrate the place, which God for the sinnes and fall of man, did not onely accurse; but also the whole face of the earth.
Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato and Aristotle, constantly affirming, that mountaines, Ilands, and Countries, have received great alteration by [Violence of Seas & waters.] the inundation of Rivers, and violence of raging Seas. Thracia, hath beene divided from Bithinia: Nigroponti, from Thessalia: Corfu, from Epire: Sicilia, from Italy: The Iles Orcades, from Scotland, and many other Ilands, and Countries cut through so in divisions after the same forme. Wherefore the more a man contemplate to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high misteries (appertaining onely to the Creator) the more he shall faile in his purpose, offend God, become foolish, and fantasticall for his paines.
But to turne backe to mine itinerary relation, after my returne to Tripoly, I departed thence Eastward, with a Caravan of Turkes to Aleppo, being ten dayes journey distant. In all this way (leaving Scanderon on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking; save onely a few scattered Villages, and poore miserable people called Turcomani, living in Tents, and following their flockes to whom I payed sundry Caffars who remove their women, children, and cattell where so they finde fountaines, and good pastorage: like unto the custome of the ancient Israelites: Which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainely demonstrate the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure they had, or could have in their living.
They differ also in Religion from all the other Mahometans in two damnable points: [The Turcomans opinion of God & the Divell.] The one is, they acknowledge, that there is a God, and that he of him selfe is so gracious, that he neither can, being essentially good doe harme, nor yet will authorize any ill to be done, and therefore more to be loved than feared: The other is, they confesse there is a Divell, and that he is a tormentor of all evill doers: and of himselfe so terrible and wicked, that they are contented even for acquisting his favour and kindnesse, to sacrifice in fire their first borne child to him: soliciting his divellishnes, not to torment them too sore when they shall come into his hands: And yet for all this, they thinke afterwards by the mercy of Mahomet, they shall goe from hell to Paradice.
In this immediate or aforesayd passage, we coasted neare and within sixe miles of the limits of Antiochia, [Antiochians the first Christians.] one of the ancient Patriarch seas; so called of Antiochus her first founder, and not a little glorying to this day, that the Disciples of Jesus and Antiochians were first here named Christians. Who (nothwithstanding) of their grievous afflictions flourished so that in 40. yeares they grew a terrour to their enemies; who suggested by the Divell cruelly afflicted them with ten generall persecutions, under the Emperours, Nero anno 67. Domitianus, anno 96, Trajanus, 100. Maximinius, 137. Marcus Antonius, 167. Severus, 195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aurelianus, 278. and Dioclesian anno 293. yeares. Notwithstanding all which massacres and martyrdome, yet this little graine of Mustard seed, planted by Gods owne hand, and watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martirum, semen Ecclesiæ est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole world.
Before my arrivall in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small griefe in my breast: The Venetian Consull, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants, (having had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me, that the Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the desarts, and willed me to hire a Janisary, and three Souldiers to overhye them; whose counsell I received, [Frustrate of Babylon.] But was meerely frustrated of my designes. True it was, they staied, but were gone three dayes before my comming to that unhappy place.
The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but sixe small or short dayes journey, the losse whereof and the damnable deceit of my Janizary made my Muse to expresse, what my sorrowfull Prose can not performe.
The doubts and drifts of the voluble mind That here and there doe flee, turne judgement blind: Did overwhelme my heart, in grim despare Whilst hope and reason fled, stayd timrous care: And yet the grounds were just; my treacherous guide Did nought but crosse me; greed led him aside: Still this, still that I would! all I surmise Is screwaly stopt: At last my scopes devise To make a Boat, to beare me downe alone With drudges two, to ground-chang'd Babylon: That could not be, the charges was too great, And eke the streame, did nought but dangers threat: My conduct still deceavd me, made it square Another Caravan, O! would come there From Aleppe, or Damascus: till in end Most of my moneyes did his knavery spend: Thus was I tost long five weekes, and foure dayes With strugling doubts: O strange were these delayes! At last a Chelfane came, a Christian kind Who by my griefe soone understood my mind; And told me flat, the Janizaries drift Was to extort me with a lingring shift. Come, come, sayd he, the Sanzacke here is just, Let us complaine, for now complayne you must: He with me went, and for a Trenchman serv'd And told the Ruler, how my Conduct swervd: He's calld, and soone convinc'd, and with command Forc'd to transport me backe to Syriaes land: I'me there arrived, and eftsoones made me bound For the Venetian Consul: there to sound My great abuses, by this Villane done. Which soone were heard, and eke repayrd as soone: The Bassaw was upright, and for times sake He did me more, then conscience will'd me take. My plaint preferd, he was in Prison layd And all my gold, to give me backe was mayd Which he had falsely tane: where for his paines He had the losse, and I receivd the gaines: For doubling his wrongs, done, to crosse him more, I got my vantage, from his craft before: And for his ten weekes fees, no more he had Than he, thats owner of a ditch-falne jade: Thus leaving him, I with the Consull bode, Full forty dayes, or I went thence abroad.
In the eleven dayes journey I had betweene Aleppo, and Beershack, through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopotamia, and Chelfania, a Province of the same, joyning with Tigris and Euphrates, and returning the same way againe; I found nothing worthy of remarkinge save the fertility of the soyle: [Mesopotamia.] which indeed in Mesopotamia, yeeldeth two crops of wheate in the yeare, and for a Bushell sowing, in diverse places, they recoyle a hundreth againe.
The countrey it selfe is overcled with infinit Villages, having no eminent Towne of any note or consequence, except the City of Carahemen the seat of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him fourteene Sanzacks, and twenty sixe thousand Timariots. The people here are for the most part beleevers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward, and ignorant Christians: And yet though without learning, or great understanding therein, they are wonderfull zealous in their profession, and great sufferers for it also.
[Beershack.] This barbarous Towne of Beershacke, being situate on Euphrates standeth in the Chelfaines Countrey, and is supposed to have beene Padan-aram, where Laban dwelt, and where Jacob kept Labans sheepe, though some interpret all Mesopotamia, then to have beene called Padanaram: from whence North-east, and not farre hence are the demolished fragments of Ninivie on Tigris, whose very ruines are now come to ruine: The decayes whereof being much semblable to that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta, or to the stony heapes of Jerico, the detriments of Thebes, the relicts of Tyrus, or to the finall overthrow of desolate Troy. This Countrey of Chelfaine, is the place most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradice was once set, though now impossible to be found out.