Part 15

From this Citie (having left my kind English men and their stately ship that carryed 24. pieces of Ordonance,) I imbarked in a Turkish Carmoesalo, that carried nothing but her loading, being bound for Rhodes. In our sayling along the coast of Ionia, the first place of any note I saw, was [Ephesus decayed.] the ruinous Citie of Ephesus; yet somewhat inhabited with Greekes, Jewes, and a few Turkes; but no waies answerable to its former glory and magnificence, being rather a monument for memory, then a continuing Towne of any excellency: neverthelesse it is pleasantly adorned with Gardens, faire fields, and greene woods of Olive trees, which on the Sea doe yeeld a delectable prospect: It was one of the seaven Churches, Revel. 2. 1. This was one of the most renowned Cities in Asia the lesser but the same thereof arose from the Temple of Diana: which for the spaciousnesse, furniture, and magnificent workmanship was accounted one of the seven worlds wonders: It was two hundred yeares in building, being foure hundred twenty five foote long, and two hundred broad: It was seven severall times burnt, whereof the most part was with lightning, and lastly the finall destruction of it, came by a base fellow Erostratus, who to purchase himselfe a name, [Dianaes Temple burnt.] did set it on fire. Timothy was Bishop of Ephesus, to the people whereof, Saint Paul directed one of his Epistles, and finally it is famous for the buriall of Saint John the Evangelist: It was said of this place, in the Acts of the Apostles, that all Asia, and the whole world did worship here Diana: Tully reporteth, De natura Deorum, that Timæus being demanded the reason why the Temple of Diana was set on fire that night, when Alexander the great was borne: gave this jest thereof, that the Mistresse of it was from home; because she being the Goddesse of Midwives, did that night wait upon Olimpias the mother of Alexander the great, who was brought to bed in Macedonia.

[The Ile Lango or Cuos.] Over against this Citie is the Ile Lango, aunciently called Coos, wherein the great Hippocrates was borne, and Appelles, the Painter most excellent. It is both fertile, and populous, and of circuite above fourescore miles. There is a kind of Serpent said to be in it, so friendly unto the Inhabitants, that when the men are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come cralling, and will lincke or claspe themselves about their neckes and bodies, without doing any harme, neither when they awake are the beasts affraid.

And neare to Lango, is the Ile Nixa, of old Strangoli; and by some called Dronisa and Naxus, an Iland both fruitfull and delightfull. As we sailed by the West part of the Ile, a Greekish passenger shewed me the place, where (as he sayd) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus, which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Darmille.

Continuing our Navigation, I saw the little Ile Ephdosh, where the Turkes told me, that all the Ilanders were [Excellent swimmers.] naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turke, save onely once in the yeare there are certaine men, and women chosen by a Turkish Captaine, who must swimme a whole league right out in the Sea, and goe downe to the bottome of the waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they shall happen to faile in this, the Iland will be reduced againe to pay him yearely rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed, there came a man and two women swimming to us, more then a mile of way, carrying with them (drie above the water) baskets of fruite to sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. For when they came to the ships side, they would neither boord, nor boat with us, but lay leaning, or as it were resting them selves on the sea, upon their one side, and sold so their fruits: keeping complements and discourses with us above an houre. Contenting them for their ware, and a fresh gale arising, we set forward, accoasting the little Ile of Samothracia.

[Samothracia.] This Ile of Samothracia, was called of old Dardania, and now by the Turkes Samandracho; a place of small note considering the quantity of the Ile, and the few number of Inhabitants: their lives being answerable to their meannes; ignorance and servitude; two strong commanders of infirme weaklings, and no lesse powerfull, then they are debile in the debt of worthinesse; which the younglings of understanding, & sucklings of far look'd-to knowledge, can never be able to escape, although a true profession covereth many naturall imperfections; and in it a hope for blessednes, which indeed moe wish for, then rightly understand it. And upon the ninth day after our departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called of the Iland wherein it standeth.

Rhodes lieth in the Carpathian Sea. It was of old called [The Ile of Rhodes.] Ithrea, Telchino, and Phiula: Plinie saith it was called Rhodes, because there were certaine fields of Roses in it; for Rhodos in the Greeke tongue signifieth a Flower: Not farre from the City, and at the entery of the Haven, [The Idoll Collossus.] I saw the relicts of that huge, and admiredly erected Idoll, named Colossus Rhodius, or the mighty image of the Sunne; which was made in honour thereof: from the which Saint Paul termed the Inhabitants Collossians. It was builded by the worthy Canete Lindo in the space of twelve yeares: others have said, of Callasses the Disciple of Lisippus, taking the name Collossus of him, and it was thought worthy to be one of the seven earthly wonders, and so it might justly have beene: The quantity whereof (as yet) may amaze the minde of the beholder: It was erected in the Image of a man, being eighty cubits high, and so bigge, that the little finger of it was as bigge as an ordinary man: between whose legs, (it standing in the harbours mouth, with a legge on each side of the entery) Shippes were wont to passe under with taunt sayles: When Mnavi Generall of Caliph Osmen first united this Ile to the Mahometan Empire, and broke downe the greatest part of this statue; the brasse whereof was said to be so much that it loaded nine hundred Camells.

This Ile belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and were then surnamed Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy Land; who were called Knights of St. John; who viriliously expulsed the Saracens from thence, Anno 1308. who had formerly taken it from the devided Grecians: These Knights sorely invested the Turkes for the space of two hundred yeares, till Solyman the magnificent, at last invaded and subdued it: The Rhodians were ever great friends to the Romanes, insomuch that when all the other Mediterranean Ilands revolted to Mithridates of Pontus, this onely adhered to the Romanes.

This Ile of Rhodes within the space of 25. yeares was three times mightily indangered by violent and extreame [Inundation of waters.] impetuosities of raine: in such sort that the last flood did drowne the greatest part of the Inhabitants: which beginning in the Spring-time, did continue to Summer, and in all this time, it broke violently downe their houses, and in the night killed the people lying in their beds; and in the day time such as were sheltered under safegard of their dwellings: which was a miserable destruction, and the like of it scarcely heard of since the universall deludge.

But true it is, as these ominous judgements falling upon particular parts & parcells of people, are justly executed; yet they serve for Caveats for all others in generall, (sinne being the originall of all) to take heed of offending the Creator, in abusing the best use of the Creature.

The Citie of Rhodes hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these Knights (Lilladamus Villiers being great Master, who were about five hundred onely, and five thousand Rhodians who asisted them) were besieged by an Armie of two hundred thousand Turkes, and three hundred Galleys, for the space of sixe months. The chiefe obstacle, and impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was onely the resolute valour of the defendants. But in end multitude overmastring valour, and the Cavalieri di Rhodo, wanting furniture to their munition, and being penurious of victuals, were constrayned to render, upon the conditionall safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and remained a long time without any habitation, till the King of Spaine gave them the barren Ile of Malta to inhabite: This Ile of Rhodes was lost by the Maltezes, Anno Dom. 1522. [Rhodes taken by Solyman.] And on Christmas day Solyman entred the Towne as conquerour, though he might justly have said (as Pyrhus once said of his victory over the Romanes) that such another victory would utterly have undone him; he lost so many of his bravest Commanders, and best Souldiers. It is ever since in the fruition of Turkes: The Fortresse of Rhodes, and that Fortresse Famogusta, in Cyprus, are the two strongest holds, in all the Empire of the great Turke.

And by the way here I must record, that if the great Turke, and his great Counsell, were not good pay-masters to their Janizaries, and speedy rewarders of their common Souldiers; it were impossible for him the Emperour, or them the Bassawes to menage so great a state, and to keepe under obedience so head-strong a multitude, & such turbulent forces: for by your leave, [Souldiers should be regarded & rewarded.] if a Souldiers industry be not quickned and animated with bountifull rewards; he hath lesse will to performe any part of Martiall service; then a dead coarse hath power to arise out of the grave: for what can be more precious to man, then his blood, being the fountaine & nurse of his vitall spirits, & the ground of his bodily substance; which no free or ingenious nature wil hazard to lose for nothing.

And whosoever shall argument or discourse upon sound reason, and infallible experience, may easily prove and perceive, that these Commanders have ever best prospered, which have most liberally maintayned, and had in singular regard, Military Arts and Souldiers; otherwise the honourable mind, would account it a great deale better to have death without life, then life without reward: yea, and the noble Commander, desiring rather to want, then to suffer worth unrecompensed.

Rhodes joyneth neare to the continent, over against Caria, now called Carmania, under which name the Turkes comprehend Pamphilia, Ionia, and Lycia: Caria by the Sea side, hath Lycia to the South, and Caria to the North: The chiefe Cities are Manissa, and Mindum, which having great gates, being but a small Towne, made Diogenes the Cynick crie out. Yee Citizens of Mindum, take heed, that your City run not out of your gates: The third is Hallicarnasso, where Dionisius was borne, who writ the History of Rome for the first three hundred yeares: Of which Towne also the Province tooke the name; for Artemisia, who ayded Xerxes against the Grecians, was by some Authors named Queene of Hallicarnasso. This was she, [Mausolaos Tombe.] who in honour of her husband Mausolao, built that curious Sepulcher, accounted for one of the worlds wonders; it being twenty five cubits high, and supported with thirty sixe admirable wrought pillars.

After I had contented the Master for my fraught, and victuals (who as he was an Infidell, used me with great exaction) I found a Barke of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, with the which I imbarked, being foure hundred miles distant.

This Tartareta, or Demi galleyeot, belonged to the Ile of Stagiro, aunciently Thasia, wherein there were mines of gold, in these times that afforded yearely to Philip King of Macedon, about fourescore talents of gold, but now mightily impoverished and of no consequence: The chiefe Towne whereof is Palmapreto, where diverse Greekes hold the opinion, Homer was interred, having a famous Sea-port, which is a common resting place for all the Orientall Pirats or Cursaroes; which maketh the Ile halfe desolate of people; and these few scarce worthy of their dwellings.

[Pamphilia & Lycia.] Having past the gulfe of Sattelia, and the Ile Carpathia, whence that part of the Sea taketh his name: we boorded close along the coast of Lycia, and the firme land of fruitfull Pamphilia; the chiefe Citie of Lycia is Patras, watred with the river Zanthus, whence the people were called Zanthi, afterward Lycians of Lycus sonne to Pandion: It lieth twixt Caria and Pamphilia, as Pamphilia lyeth betweene it and Cilicia: The chiefe Towne in Pamphilia is Seleucia, built by Seleucus, one of Alexanders successours: on the East of Lycia within land bordreth Lycaonia, &c. Having left Pamphilia behind us, we fetched up the coast of Cylicia, sustaining many great dangers, both of tempestuous stormes, and invasions of damnable Pirats, who gave us divers assaults to their owne disadvantages; our saylage being swifter, then either their swallowing desires could follow, or our weake and inresolute defence could resist.

Here in this Countrey of Cilicia, was Saint Paul borne in the now decayed Towne of Tharsus, who for antiquity will not succumbe to any City of Natolia, being as yet the Mistresse of that Province, though neither for worth, nor wealth.

All auncient things by Time revolve in nought As if their Founders, had no founding wrought. But thou torne Tharsus, brookes a glorious name, For that great Saint, who in Thee had his frame: So may Cilicians joy, the Christian sort, That from their bounds, rose such a mighty Fort.

Twelve dayes was I betweene Rhodes and Limisse in [The description of Cyprus.] Cyprus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstrations from the Ilanders, then I could hope for, or wish, being farre beyond my merit or expectation; onely contenting my curiosity with a quiet mind, I redounded thankes for my imbraced courtesies.

The people are generally strong and nimble, of great civility, hospitality to their neighbours, and exceedingly affectionated to strangers. The second day after my arrival, I tooke with me an Interpreter, and went to see Nicosia, which is placed in the midst of the Kingdome. But in my journey thither, extreame was the heate and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want of water: And although I had with me sufficiency of Wine, yet durst I drinke none thereof, being so strong, and withall had a tast of pitch; and that is, because they have no barrels, but great Jarres made of earth, wherein their Wine is put. And these Jarres are all inclosed within the ground save onely their mouthes, which stand alwayes open like to a Source or Cisterne; whose insides are all interlarded with pitch to preserve the earthen vessells unbroke a sunder, in regard of the forcible Wine; yet making the taste thereof unpleasant to liquorous lips; and turneth the Wine, too headdy for the braine in digestion, which for health groweth difficult to strangers; and to themselves a swallowing up of diseases.

To cherish life and blood, the health of Man, Give me a Tost, plung'd in a double Cann, And spic'd with Ginger: for the wrestling Grape Makes Man, become from Man, a sottish Ape.

Nicosia is the principall Citie of Cyprus, and is invironed with mountaines, like unto Florence in Ætruria; [The sixe Cities of Cyprus.] wherein the Beglerbeg remaineth: The second is Famegusta, the chiefe strength and Sea-port in it: Selina, Lemisso, Paphos, and Fontana Morosa, are the other foure speciall Townes in the Iland.

This Ile of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, Amatusa, and by some Marchara, that is happy: It is of length extending from East to West, 210. large 60. and of circuit 600. miles. It yeeldeth infinite canes of Sugar, Cotten-wooll, Oyle, Honney, Cornes, Turpentine, Allum, Verdegreece, Grogranes, store of Mettals and Salt; besides all other sorts of fruit and commodities in abundance. It was also named Cerastis, because it butted toward the East with one horne: and lastly Cyprus, from the abundance of Cypresse trees there growing. This Iland was consecrated to Venus, where in Paphos she was greatly honoured, termed hence, Dea Cypri,

Festa Dies Veneris tota celeberrima Cypro, Venerat, ipsa suis aderat Venus aurea festis.

Venus feast day, through Cyprus hollowed came, Whose feasts, her presence, dignified the same.

Cyprus lyeth in the gulfe betweene Cilicia and Syria, having Ægypt to the West: Syria to the South: Cilicia to the East: and the Pamphilian Sea to the North: It hath foure chiefe Capes or headlands: first, Westward the Promontore of Acanias, modernely Capo di Santo Epifanio: to the South the Promontore Phæuria, now Capo Bianco: to the East Pedasia, modernely Capo di Greco: to the North, the high foreland of Cramineon, now Capo di Cormathita: these foure are the chiefest Promontores of the Iland, and Cape di S. Andrea is the furthest poynt Eastward toward Cilicia: Diodore and Pliny say that anciently it contained nine Kingdomes, and fifteene good Townes: Cerania, now Selina, was built by Cyrus, who subdued the nine petty Kings of this Ile: Nicosia is situate in the bottome or plaine of Massara, and thirty foure miles from Famagusta; and the Towne of Famagusta was formerly named Salamus: I was informed by some of sound experience here, that this Kingdome containeth about eight hundreth and forty Villages, besides the sixe capitall Townes, two whereof are nothing inferiour for greatnesse and populosity to the best Townes in Candy, Sicily, or Greece.

[Trohodos a huge hill in Cyprus.] The chiefest and highest mountaine in this Ile, is by the Cypriots called Trohodos, it is of height eight, and of compasse forty eight miles, whereon there are a number of Religious Monasteries, the people whereof are called Colieros, and live under the order of Saint Basile. There is abundance here of Coriander seede, with medicinable Reubarbe, and Turpentine. Here are also mines of gold in it, of Chrysocole, of Calthante, of Allome, Iron, and exceeding good Copper. And besides these mines, there are diverse precious stones found in this Ile, as Emeraulds, Diamonds, Chrystall, Corall, red and white, and the admirable stone Amiante, whereof they make Linnen cloth, that will not burne being cast into the fire, but serveth to make it neate and white.

The greatest imperfection of this Ile, is scarcity of water, and too much plenty of scorching heate, and fabulous grounds. The Inhabitants are very civill, courteous, and affable; and notwithstanding of their delicious and delicate fare, they are much subject to Melancholy, of a Robust nature, and good Warriours, if they might carry Armes: It is recorded, that in the time of Constantine the Great, this Ile was all uterly abandoned of the Inhabitants, and that because it did not raine for the space of sixe and thirty yeares. After which time, and to [Cyprus replanted.] replant this Region againe, the chiefest Colonies came from Ægypt, Judea, Syria, Cilicia, Pamphilia, Thracia, and certaine Territories of Greece: And it is thought, in the yeares 1163. after that Guy of Lusingham, the last Christian King of Jerusalem had lost the Holy Land, a number of French men, stayed and inhabited here; of whom sprung the greatest race of the Cyprian Gentility; and so from them are discended the greatest Families of the Phenician Sydonians, modernely Drusians: though ill divided, and worse declined; yet they are sprung both from one Originall: the distraction arising from Conscience of Religion, the one a Christian, the other a Turke.

The three Iles of Cyprus, Candy, and Sicily, are the onely Monarchicke Queenes of the Mediterranean Seas: [Comparisons of Iles.] and semblable to other in fertility, length, breadth, and circuit: save onely Candy that is somewhat more narrow then the other two, and also more Hilly and sassinous: yet for Oyles and Wines, she is the Mother of both the other: Sicily being for Graine and Silkes the Empresse of all: and Cyprus for Sugar and Cotton-wooll, a darling sister to both; onely Sicily being the most civill Ile, and nobly gentilitat, the Cypriots indifferently good, and the Candiots the most ruvid of all.

The chiefe Rivers are Teno, and Pedesco: Cyprus was first by Teucer made a Kingdome, who after the Trojane Warre came and dwelt here: and afterward being divided betweene nine petty Princes, it was subdued by Cyrus, the first Monarch of the Meedes and Persians. After the subversion of which Empire, this Ile was given to the Potolomies of Ægypt: from whom Cato conquered it to the benefit of the Romans. [The Dukes of Savoy were Kings of Cyprus.] The Dukes of Savoy were once Kings of Cyprus; but the Inhabitants usurping their authority, elected Kings to themselves, of their owne generation: and so it continued, till the last King of Cyprus, James the Bastard (marrying with the daughter of a noble Venetian, Catherina Cornaro) died without children, leaving her his absolute heire. And she perceiving the factious Nobility, too headstrong to be bridled by a female authority, like a good child, resigned her Crowne and Scepter to the Venetian Senate, Anno 1473. Whereupon the Venetians imbracing the opportunitie of time, brought her home, and sent Governours thither to beare sway in their behalfe; paying onely as tribute to the Ægyptian Sultans 40000. Crownes, which had been due ever since Melecksala, had made John of Cyprus his tributary.

It was under their Jurisdiction 120. yeares and more; till that the Turkes, who ever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit occasion in time of peace, and without suspition in the Venetians) tooke it in with a great Armado. Anno 1570. and so till this day by them is detayned. Oh great pitty! that the usurpers of Gods word, and the worlds great enemy, should maintaine (without feare) that famous Kingdome, being but one thousand & fifty Turkes in all, who are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamitie of that poore afflicted Christian people under the terrour of these Infidels; who would, if they had Armes, or asistance of any Christian Potentate, easily subvert and abolish the Turkes, without any disturbance; yea, and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I doe not see in that small judgement, which by experience I have got, but the redemption of that Countrey were most facile; if that the generous heart of any Christian Prince, would be moved with condigne compassion to relieve the miserable aflicted Inhabitants. In which worke, he should reape (questionlesse) not onely an infinite treasure of Worldly commodities, that followeth upon so great a conquest, but also a heavenly and eternall reward of immortall glory. [The Florentines attempted to conquer Cyprus.] The which deliverance Ferdinando Duke of Florence, thought to have accomplished (having purchased the good will of the Ilanders) with five Gallounes, and 5000. Souldiers: Who being mindfull to take first in the Fortresse of Famogusta, directed so their course, that in the night, they should have entred the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walles.