The Toilet of Flora or, A collection of the most simple and approved methods of preparing baths, essences, pomatums, powders, perfumes, and sweet-scented waters. With receipts for cosmetics of every kind, that can smooth and brighten the skin, give force to beauty, and take off the appearance of old age and decay

Part 6

Chapter 64,297 wordsPublic domain

Take a quarter of a pound of Quick-lime, an ounce and a half of Orpiment, an ounce of Florentine Orrice, half an ounce of Sulphur, the same quantity of Nitre, and a pound or pint of a Lixivium made of Bean-stalk Ashes; boil the whole to a proper consistence, which may be known by dipping a wet feather into it. It is boiled enough when the feathery part of the quill easily separates from the other. Then add half an ounce of Oil of Lavender, or any aromatic Essence, and mix into a Liniment, with which if you rub the hair that grows on any part of the body, it will immediately drop off. When the hair is removed, foment the part with Oil of Sweet Almonds, or Oil of Roses.

158. _Another._

Take a quarter of a pound of Gum Ivy dissolved in Vinegar, a drachm of Orpiment, a drachm of Ant Eggs, and two drachms of Gum Arabic dissolved in Juice of Henbane, in which half an ounce of Quick-lime has been boiled. Make the whole into a liniment with a sufficient quantity of Fowls Grease, and apply a little to the part where you would wish to destroy the Hair, after being clean shaved.

159. _An excellent Lip-Salve._

Take an ounce of Myrrh, as much Litharge in fine powder, four ounces of Honey, two ounces of Bees-wax, and six ounces of Oil of Roses; mix them over a slow fire. Those who are inclined may add a few drops of Oil of Rhodium, and some Leaf Gold.

160. _Or,_

Take Armenian Bole, Myrrh, and Ceruss in fine powder, of each an ounce; mix with a sufficient quantity of Goose-grease into a proper consistence. It presently cures chaps in any part of the body.

161. _A Liniment to promote the Growth and Regeneration of the Nails._

Take two drachms of Orpiment, a drachm of Manna, the same quantity of Aloes and Frankincense, and six drachms of White Wax. Make them into a liniment, which apply to the part with a thumb-stall.

NAILS.

162. _A certain Remedy for Whitlows; a Disorder that frequently affects the Fingers._

Take Pellitory of the Wall, cut as small as possible, and mix it with a proportionable Quantity of Hog's Lard; wrap it up in several papers, one over the other, and place it in warm ashes, which though not hot enough to burn the paper, yet retain sufficient heat to roast the Pellitory of the Wall, and incorporate it thoroughly with the Lard. Then spread this Liniment on a piece of brown paper, wrap it round the Whitlow, and apply a fresh dressing, at least twice a day. That it may give the speedier relief, spread the ointment thick.

163. _Another._

Take Vine Ashes, with which make a strong Lee; and in this, warmed, let the finger soak a good while. To keep up an equal degree of warmth, every minute pour into the vessel a little more hot lees. Repeat this operation two or three times, and you will speedily find the good effect of it.

PERFUMES.

164. _Scented Tables or Pastils._

Beat into a fine powder, and sift through a hair sieve, a pound of the Marc or Residuum left in the still, after making Angelic Water; then put it into a mortar, with a handful of fresh-gathered Rose Leaves, and a small porringer full of Gum Tragacanth softened with Rose Water. Beat the whole into a Paste; roll it out on a dresser with a rolling-pin, and cut it into Lozenges with a knife.

To form scented Pastils, roll up bits of this Paste in the shape of a cone, that they may stand upright, and set them by to dry. These kind of Pastils are lighted in the same manner as a candle. They consume entirely away; and, while burning, exhale a fragrant smoke.

165. _A pleasant Perfume._

Take a drachm of Musk, four Cloves, four ounces of Lavender-seed, a drachm and a half of Civet, and half a drachm of Ambergrise; heat your pestle and mortar, and rub the Musk, Cloves, and Lavender-seeds together, with a lump of Loaf Sugar and a wine-glass full of Angelic or Rose-water. Take a handful of powder, and incorporate it well with this mixture, then sift it through a sieve; add two or three pounds more powder, or even a larger quantity, till the perfume is brought to a proper degree of strength. As to the Civet, put it on the end of a hot pestle, and rub it well with a handful of powder; after which add, by little and little, six pounds of powder; then sift the whole through a hair sieve to incorporate it with the other perfumed powder. The Ambergrise must be well rubbed in the mortar; and by degrees two pounds of powder, either white or grey, must be added to it, till the Ambergrise is thoroughly incorporated with the powder; then sift through a hair sieve, and mix all the three powders together. This perfume is to be kept in a Leather Bag, the seams of which are well sewed with waxed thread.

166. _Common perfumed Powder._

Take Florentine Orrice, a pound, dried Rose Leaves, a pound; Gum Benjamin, two ounces; Storax, an ounce; Yellow Sanders, an ounce and a half; Cloves, two drachms; and a little Lemon Peel; reduce the whole to a fine powder, and mix with it twenty pounds of Starch, or rather of grey or white powder; incorporate them well, and sift them through a lawn sieve.

167. _A Cassolette._

Incorporate the Powders of Florentine Orrice, Storax, Benjamin and other aromatics, with Orange-flower Water; and put this Paste into a little Silver or Copper Box lined with Tin. When you have a mind to use this perfume, set the Box on a gentle fire, or on hot ashes, and it will exhale a most delightful odour.

168. _To perfume a House, and purify the Air._

Take a root of Angelica, dry it in an oven, or before the fire, then bruise it well and infuse it four or five days in White Wine Vinegar. When you use it, lay it upon a brick made red hot, and repeat the operation several times.

169. _A Perfume to scent Powder._

Take a drachm of Musk, four ounces of Lavender Seeds, a drachm and a half of Civet, and half a drachm of Ambergrise. Beat the whole together into powder, and sift through a hair sieve. Keep this perfume in a box that shuts very close, to scent powder with, according to your fancy.

PASTILS.

170. _An excellent Composition to perfume a Room agreeably._

Take four ounces of Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Storax, and a quarter of an ounce of Aloes-wood. When these ingredients have been well bruised, simmer them about half an hour over a slow fire, in a glazed earthen pipkin, with as much Rose-water as will cover them, and then strain off the liquor for use. Dry the Residuum or Marc, and pulverize it in a warm mortar with a pound of Charcoal. Dissolve some Gum Tragacanth in the reserved Liquor, then add to your powder a drachm of fine Oriental Musk dissolved in a little Rose-water, and form the whole into a Paste, of which make pastils about the length and thickness of the little finger, narrower at top than at bottom, that they may stand firm and upright. When they are thoroughly dry, light them at the narrow end, and let them burn till they are wholly consumed. While burning they afford an exquisite perfume. To render the perfume still higher, add six grains of Ambergrise.

171. _Or,_

Pulverize together two ounces of Gum Benjamin, half an ounce of Storax, a drachm of Aloes-wood, twenty grains of fine Civet, a little Sea Coal, and Loaf Sugar; boil the whole in a sufficient quantity of Rose-water, to the consistence of a stiff paste. If you are desirous of having your pastils higher flavoured, add twelve grains of Ambergrise just before you take the composition off the fire; and the ingredients being thoroughly mixed, form them into pastils.

172. _Fragrant Pastils made use of by way of Fumigation._

Take the purest Labdanum and Gum Benjamin, of each two ounces; Storax and dry Balsam of Peru, of each three quarters of an ounce; choice Myrrh, half a drachm; Gum Tacamahac, a quarter of an ounce; Olibanum, a drachm; Liquid Balsam of Peru, half an ounce; Ambergrise, a quarter of an ounce; Musk and Civet, of each a scruple; Essential Oil of Rhodium, thirty drops; Essential Oils of Orange-flowers, Lemons, and Bergamot, of each four drops; Gum Lacque, in fine powder, two ounces and a half; Cascarilla, Aloes-wood, Rose-wood, St. Lucia-wood, Yellow Sanders, and Cinnamon, all powdered, of each a drachm. With the assistance of a vapour-bath reduce them to a mass, which form into pastils in the usual way.

173. _Pastils of Roses._

Pulverize a pound of the Marc or Residuum left in the still after making Angelica Water; likewise a large handful of Roses; and with a sufficient quantity of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water, beat them into a stiff paste, which is to be rolled out upon a marble with a rolling-pin, and cut into Lozenges, or formed into pastils. If you have a mind to ornament them, cover them with Leaf Gold or Silver.

PASTES.

174. _Paste of dried Almonds to cleanse the Skin._

Beat any quantity you please, of Sweet and Bitter Almonds in a marble mortar, and while beating, pour on them a little Vinegar in a small stream to prevent their turning oily: then add two drachms of Storax in fine powder, two ounces of White Honey, and two Yolks of Eggs boiled hard; mix the whole into a paste.

175. _Soft Almond Paste._

Blanch in warm water any quantity of Bitter Almonds, leave them to grow dry, and then beat them in a marble mortar with a little Milk, to form them into a paste. To prevent their turning oily, afterwards add the Crumb of a light White Loaf soaked in Milk. Beat it with the Almonds till they are incorporated into an uniform mass; then put the whole into a kettle, with some fresh Milk, and let them simmer over a gentle fire; keeping the composition stirring, till it is boiled into a soft paste.

176. _Paste for the Hands._

Take Sweet Almonds, half a pound; White Wine Vinegar, Brandy, and Spring Water, of each two quarts; two ounces of Crumb of Bread, and the Yolks of two Eggs. Blanch and beat the Almonds, moistening them with the Vinegar; add the Crumb of Bread soaked in the Brandy, and mix it with the Almonds and Yolks of Egg, by repeated Trituration. Then pour in the Water, and simmer the whole over a slow fire, keeping the composition continually stirring, till it has acquired a proper consistence.

177. _Or,_

Take Bitter and Sweet Almonds blanched, of each two ounces; Pine-nuts, and the four Cold Seeds, of each an ounce; beat the whole together in a marble mortar with the Yolks of two Eggs, and the Crumb of a small Wheaten Loaf. Moisten the mass with White Wine Vinegar, put it into a deep pan, simmer it over a slow fire, and when the paste ceases sticking to the pan, it is sufficiently boiled.

178. _Or,_

Take blanched Almonds, a pound; Pine-nuts, four ounces; beat them together into a paste with the addition of two ounces of Loaf Sugar, an ounce of the finest Honey, the same quantity of Bean Flower, and half a gill of Brandy. This paste may be scented with the Essences of Cloves, Lemons, Bergamot, Jasmine, Rhodium, Orange Flowers, &c. or with a few grains of Musk, Civet, or a few drops of Essence of Ambergrise, for persons who have no aversion to those perfumes.

179. _Or,_

Beat half a pound of blanched Almonds, with half an ounce of Yellow Sanders, half an ounce of Florentine Orrice, and an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, in fine powder; pour on them gradually an ounce of Rose-water, and then add half a Pippin sliced small, a quarter of a pound of stale Crumb of White Bread sifted fine, and knead the whole into a paste with two ounces of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water.

180. _Or,_

Beat some peeled apples (having first taken out the Cores) in a marble mortar, with Rose-water, and White Wine, of each equal parts. Add some Crumb of Bread, blanched Almonds, and a little White Soap; and simmer the whole over a slow fire till it acquires a proper consistence.

181. _Or,_

Infuse some blanched Almonds, two or three hours, in Goat's or Cow's Milk, and beat them into a paste. Strain the infusion through a linen cloth with a strong pressure, and add to the strained Liquor half a pound of the Crumb of White Bread, a quarter of a pound of Borax, and as much Burnt Roch Alum. Simmer the whole together, and when almost boiled enough, add an ounce of Spermaceti. Stir the composition well with a spatula to prevent it from burning to the bottom of the pan; and let it simmer but very gently.

182. _Or,_

Dry, before the fire, half a pound of Bitter Almonds blanched, then beat them in a marble mortar as fine as possible, and add a little boiled Milk to prevent the Almonds from turning oily. Beat in the same manner the Crumb of two French Bricks, with four Yolks of Eggs boiled hard, and with the addition of some fresh Milk knead them into a paste, which incorporate with that of the Almonds.

POMATUMS.

183. _Cold Cream, or Pomatum for the Complexion._

Take White Wax and Spermaceti, of each a drachm; Oil of Sweet Almonds, two ounces; Spring Water, an ounce and a half; melt the Wax and Spermaceti together in the Oil of Almonds, in a glazed earthen pipkin, over hot ashes, or in a vapour-bath; pour the solution into a marble mortar, and stir it about with a wooden pestle, till it grow cold, and seem quite smooth; then mix the Water gradually, and keep stirring, till the whole is incorporated. This pomatum becomes extremely white and light by the agitation, and very much resembles cream, from its similitude to which it has obtained its name.

This pomatum is an excellent cosmetic, and renders the skin supple and smooth. Some add a little Balm of Gilead to heighten its virtue; and it is sometimes scented, by using Rose-water or Orange-flower Water in the preparation, instead of Spring-water, or with a few drops of any Essence, as fancy directs. It is also very good to prevent marks in the face from the Small-pox; in which last case, a little powder of Saffron, or some desiccative powder, such as Flowers of Zinc or French Chalk, is usually added. Keep it for use in a large gallypot tied over with a bladder.

184. _Cucumber Pomatum._

Take Hog's Lard, a pound; ripe Melons, and Cucumbers, of each three pounds, Verjuice, half a pint; two pippins pared, and a pint of Cow's Milk. Slice the Melons, Cucumbers, and Apples, having first pared them; bruise them in the Verjuice, and, together with the Milk and Hog's Lard, put them into an alembic. Let them infuse in a vapour-bath eight or ten hours; then squeeze out the Liquor through a straining cloth while the mixture is hot, and expose it to the cold air, or set it in a cool place to congeal. Afterwards pour off the watery part that subsides, and wash it in several Waters, till the last remains perfectly clear. Melt the pomatum again in a vapour-bath several times, to separate from it all its humid particles, and every extraneous substance; otherwise it will soon grow rancid. Keep it for use in a gallypot tied over with a bladder.

185. _Or,_

A more simple Cucumber Pomatum may be made by simmering together Hog's Lard and pared Cucumbers cut in thin slices. With respect to the rest of the process, follow the method laid down for preparing Lip-salve; and keep this pomatum in the same manner as the former.

Both these pomatums are good Cosmetics; they soften the skin, and preserve it cool and smooth.

186. _Lavender Pomatum._

Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, ten pounds of Lavender Flowers, and a quarter of a pound of Virgin's Wax; put two pounds of picked Lavender Flowers into a proper vessel with the Hog's Lard, and knead them with your hands into as uniform a paste as possible. Put this mixture into a pewter, tin, or stone pot, and cork it tight; place the vessel in a vapour-bath, and let it stand six hours; at the expiration of which time, strain the mixture through a coarse linen cloth, with the assistance of a press. Throw away the Lavender Flowers as useless, pour the melted Lard back into the same pot, and add four pounds of fresh Lavender Flowers. Stir the Lard and Flowers together while the Lard is in a liquid state, in order to mix them thoroughly; and repeat the former process. Continue to act in this manner till the whole quantity of Lavender Flowers is used. Then set in a cool place the pomatum separated from the Lavender Flowers, that it may congeal; pour off the brown aqueous juice extracted from them; and wash the Pomatum in several waters, stirring it with a wooden spatula, to separate any remaining watery particles, till the last water remains perfectly colourless. Then melt the Pomatum in a vapour-bath, and keep it in that state about an hour, in a vessel well corked; leaving it afterwards to congeal. Repeat this last operation till the aqueous particles are entirely extracted when the Wax must be added, and the Pomatum having been again melted, in a vapour-bath, in a vessel closely corked, be suffered to congeal as before. When properly prepared, fill it into gallypots, and tye the mouths over with wet bladders, to prevent the air from penetrating.

This Pomatum is extremely fragrant, but is used only for dressing the hair.

In the same manner are prepared, Orange-flower Pomatum, Jasmine Pomatum, and all Pomatums made of odoriferous flowers. Common Pomatum scented with the essences of any such flowers, may be used as a good succedaneum.

187. LIP-SALVES.

Take three ounces of Oil of Almonds, three quarters of an ounce of Spermaceti, and a quarter of an ounce of Virgin's Wax; melt them together over a slow fire, mixing with them a little of the powder of Alkanet Root. Keep stirring till cold, and then add a few drops of Oil of Rhodium.

188. _Or,_

Take prepared Tutty and Oil of Eggs, of each equal parts; mix, and apply them to the lips, after washing the latter with Barley or Plantain Water.

189. _Or,_

Place over a chafing-dish of coals, in a glazed earthen pan, a quarter of a pound of the best fresh Butter, and an ounce of Virgin's Wax; melt them together; when thoroughly melted, throw in the Stones of half a bunch of ripe Black Grapes, with some Alkanet Roots a little bruised. Simmer these ingredient together for a quarter of an hour; afterwards strain the mixture through a fine linen cloth; and pour into your pomatum, which must be again set on the fire, a spoonful of Orange-flower Water. Having let them simmer together a little while, take the pan off the fire, and keep the pomatum stirring till it become quite cold. It will keep a long while, and is a perfect cure for chapped lips.

190. _A Yellow Lip-Salve._

Take Yellow Bee's Wax, two ounces and a half; Oil of Sweet Almonds, a quarter of a pint; melt the Wax in the Oil, and let the mixture stand till it become cold, when it acquires a pretty stiff consistence. Scrape it into a marble mortar, and rub it with a wooden pestle, to render it perfectly smooth. Keep it for use in a gallypot, closely covered.

It is emollient and lenient; of course good for chaps in the lips, hands, or nipples; and preserves the skin soft and smooth.

A Crust of Bread applied hot, is an efficacious remedy for pimples that rise on the lips, in consequence of having drank out of a glass after an uncleanly person.

191. _A Scarlet Lip-Salve._

Take Hog's Lard washed in Rose-water, half a pound; Red Roses and Damask Roses bruised, a quarter of a pound; knead them together and let them lie in that state two days. Then melt the Hog's Lard, and strain it from the Roses. Add a fresh quantity of the latter, knead them in the Hog's Lard, and let them lie together two days as before; then gently simmer the mixture in a vapour-bath. Press out the Lard, and keep it for use in the same manner as other Lip-salves.

192. _Or,_

Take an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds cold drawn, a drachm of fresh Mutton Suet, and a little bruised Alkanet Root; simmer the whole together. Instead of Oil of Sweet Almonds you may use Oil of Jasmine, or the Oil of any other Flower, if you choose the Lip-salve should have a fragrant scent.

193. _Or,_

Take Oil of Violets, and the expressed Juice of Mallows, of each an ounce and a half; Goose Grease and Veal Marrow, of each a quarter of an ounce; Gum Tragacanth, a drachm and a half; melt the whole over a gentle fire.

194. _Or,_

Take half a pound of fresh Butter, a quarter of a pound of Bee's Wax, four or five ounces of cleansed Black Grapes, and about an ounce of bruised Alkanet Root; simmer them together over a slow fire till the Wax is wholly dissolved, and the mixture become of a bright red colour; then strain, and set it by for use.

195. _Or,_

Take Deer or Goat's Suet, six ounces; Hog's Lard, four ounces: cut them into little bits, and wash them five or six different times in White Wine; then by hard pressure squeeze out every drop of the Wine. Melt the fats in a new-glazed earthen pan with half an ounce of Orrice Roots cut in thin slices, a grated Nutmeg, two or three Pippins pared and sliced thin, a pint of Rose-water, an ounce of Bee's Wax, and half an ounce of bruised Cloves. Simmer the whole over a slow fire about half an hour; then strain through a linen cloth into a pan half full of clean Water. Let the pomatum remain in the pan till cold, then wash it well, and beat it in a marble mortar with two ounces of White Wax, till they be thoroughly incorporated. Apply a little to the lips every night going to rest; and rub it upon the hands every night and morning.

196. _White Pomatum._

Take an ounce of Florentine Orrice-root, half an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, and as much Gum Benjamin, a quarter of an ounce of Rose-wood, and a quarter of an ounce of Cloves. Bruise the whole into a gross powder, tie it up in a piece of linen, and simmer it in a vapour-bath, with two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard well washed; add a couple of Pippins pared and cut into small bits, four ounces of Rose-water, and two ounces of Orange-flower Water. After the ingredients have simmered together a little while, strain off the Liquor gently, and let the Pomatum stand till cold; then put it by for use in the same manner as other pomatums.

197. _Red Pomatum_

Is made by adding to the above more or less Alkanet Root bruised, according to the depth of colour you would wish to impart. Simmer the Pomatum and Alkanet together, stirring the mixture with a wooden spatula, till the Pomatum is sufficiently tinged; then strain it from the Roots, and set it by for use.

198. _A Pomatum to remove Redness, or Pimples in the Face._

Steep in clear Water a pound of a Boar's Cheek till it becomes tolerably white, drain it quite dry, and put it into a new-glazed earthen pan with two or three pared Pippins quartered, an ounce and a half of the four Cold Seeds bruised, and a slice of Veal about the size of the palm of one's hand. Boil the whole together in a vapour-bath for four hours, then with a strong cloth squeeze out your pomatum into an earthen dish placed upon hot ashes; adding to it an ounce of White Wax, and an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds. Stir the pomatum well with a spatula till it become cold.

199. _A Pomatum for Wrinkles._

Take Juice of White Lily Roots and fine Honey, of each two ounces; melted White Wax, an ounce; incorporate the whole together, and make a pomatum. It should be applied every night, and not be wiped off till the next morning.

200. _Another for the same Intention._

Take six new-laid Eggs, boil them hard, take out the Yolks, and fill the cavities with Myrrh, and powdered Sugar Candy, of each equal parts. Join the Whites together neatly, and set them on a plate before the fire; mixing the Liquor that exsudes from them with an ounce of Hog's Lard. This pomatum must be applied in the morning, and be suffered to dry upon the skin, which is afterwards to be wiped with a clean fine napkin.

201. _Or,_

Take half an ounce of Sallad Oil, an ounce of Oil of Tartar, half an ounce of Mucilage of Quince Seeds, three quarters of an ounce of Ceruss, thirty grains of Borax, and the same quantity of Sal Gem. Stir the whole together for some time in a little earthen dish, with a wooden spatula, and apply it in the same manner as the former composition.

202. _Pomatum for a red or pimpled Face._