Part 5
The essence of one kind of flower only, can be made in a box at the same time, for the scent of one would impair that of another. For the same reason, the cloths that have been used to extract the essence of any particular flower, cannot be used to extract the essence of another, till washed clean in a strong lye, and thoroughly dried in the open air. This method is of great use to obtain the scent of flowers which afford no Essential Oil by distillation, such as Tuberoses, Jasmine, and several others.
120. _Or,_
Take any flowers you please, and put them in a large jar, layer by layer, mixed with Salt, as directed for inflammable Spirit of Roses, till the jar is quite full; then cork it tight, and let it stand in a cellar, or some other cool place, for forty days; at the expiration of which time, empty the whole into a sieve, or straining cloth, stretched over the mouth of a glazed earthen or stone pan, to receive the essence that drains from the flowers upon squeezing them gently. Afterwards put the essence into a glass bottle, which must not be filled above two thirds; cork it tight, and expose it to the heat of the sun in fine weather, five and twenty or thirty days, to purify the essence, a single drop of which will be capable of scenting a quart of Water or any other Liquid.
121. _Essence of Ambergrise._
Take of Ambergrise a quarter of an ounce; the same quantity of Sugar Candy; Musk, half a drachm; and Civet, two grains; rub them together, and put the mixture into a Phial: pour upon it a quarter of a pint of tartarised Spirit of Wine, stop close the Phial, which set in a gentle sand heat for four or five days, and then decant the clear Tincture for use. This makes the best of perfumes; the least touch of it leaves its scent upon any thing a great time; and in constitutions where such sweets are not offensive to the head, nothing can be a more immediate Cordial.
122. _A Remedy for St. Anthony's Fire or Erysipelatous Eruptions on the Face._
Take Narcissus Roots, an ounce; fresh Nettle-seeds, half an ounce; beat them together into a soft Paste with a sufficient quantity of White Wine Vinegar, and anoint the eruptions therewith every night; or, bathe the part affected with the Juice of Cresses.
FLOWERS.
123. _Manner of drying Flowers, so as to preserve their natural Colours._
Take fine White Sand, wash it repeatedly, till it contains not the least earth or salt, then dry it for use. When thoroughly dry, fill a glass or stone jar half full of Sand, in which stick the Flowers in their natural situation, and afterwards cover them gently with the same, about the eighth part of an inch above the Flower. Place the glass in the sun, or, if in winter-time, in a room where a constant fire is kept, till the Flower is perfectly dried. Then remove the Sand with the utmost precaution, and clean the Leaves with a feather brush. Particular Flowers lose in some measure their natural lively colours, but this may be helped by the assistance of art.
Roses and other Flowers of a delicate colour, recover their natural lustre by being exposed to a moderate vapour of Brimstone; but Crimson or Scarlet Flowers, by being exposed to the vapour of a solution of Tin in Spirit of Nitre. The vapour of a solution of Filings of Steel in Spirit of Vitriol, restores to the Leaves and Stalk, their primitive green colour. This method succeeds perfectly well in single Flowers. There are some difficulties with respect to Pinks, Carnations, and other double Flowers; to succeed with them, split the cup on each side, and when the Flower is quire dry, glue it together with Gum-water; or prick the cup in different parts with a large pin.
As to the scent, which is in great measure lost in drying, it may be restored, by dropping into the middle of the Flower a drop of its Essential Oil; for instance, a drop of Oil of Roses on a Rose, Oil of Cloves on a Clove-july-flower, Oil of Jasmine on a Jasmine Flower.
124. _A Secret to preserve Flowers._
Fill an earthen, copper, or wooden vessel half full of sifted Sand, then fill it up to the brim with clear Spring Water, and stir the Sand well with a stick in order to detach the earthy particles. When the Sand has thoroughly settled, pour off the turbid Water by inclination, add fresh Water, and continue to wash the Sand, till all the Water that floats on its surface remains perfectly clear. The Sand being thus cleansed, expose it to the heat of the sun a sufficient time, to exhale entirely its humidity. Prepare for every Flower an earthen or tin vessel of a proper size, make choice of the finest, most perfect, and driest Flowers of their respective kinds, and be careful to leave the stalks of a good length. Place them upright in the vessel, with one hand as lightly as possible, about two or three inches below the rims, so as not to touch the sides, or each other; and with the other hand gradually pour on them the Sand till the stalk is quite covered; then lightly cover the Flower itself, separating the Leaves a little. The Tulip requires a farther operation. The triangular top that rises out of the middle of the cup, must be cut off, by which means the Leaves of the Flower will adhere better to the Stalk. When the vessel is filled with Flowers, leave it a month or two exposed to the rays of the sun; and the Flowers when taken out, though dry, will be very little inferior in beauty to new-blown Flowers, but will have lost their scent.
125. _Another Secret to preserve Flowers._
Take the finest River Sand you can get, after having sifted it several times through a fine sieve, throw it into a glass vessel full of clear Water, and rub it a good while between your fingers to render it still finer; then pour off the Water by inclination, and dry the Sand in the sun. The Sand being thus prepared, bury the Flowers gently in it with their Leaves and Stalk, disposing them in such a manner that their form may not be in the least injured. After having thus kept Flowers some time, till their humid particles are entirely evaporated, take them out, and inclose them in bottles, well corked; secure them from all changes of the atmosphere, but let them enjoy a temperate warmth; for if the heat is too great, the colours fade; and if not kept sufficiently warm, the humidity of the Flowers will not wholly evaporate.
126. _Another Method of preserving Flowers a long while, in their natural Shape and Colour._
Take the finest River Sand, divested of whatever impurities it may contain; then dry it in the sun or a stove, sift it through a sieve, and only make use of the finest part. Procure a Tin Box, or a Wooden Box lined with Tin, of any size you think proper, cover the bottom of the Box three or four inches deep with prepared Sand, and stick in it the Stalks of the Flowers in rows, but in such a manner that none of the Flowers may touch each other, afterwards filling the vacuities between the Stalks with Sand. Then spread the Sand all round the Flowers, which cover with a layer about two or three inches thick. Put this Box in a place exposed to the sun, or in some warm situation, for the space of a month. With respect to Tulips, the pistil that rises in the middle, and contains the Seed, must be dexterously cut out, and the empty space filled with Sand: too many Flowers should not be put into the same Box, nor should the Box be too large.
GLOVES.
127. _White Gloves Scented With Jasmine after the Italian manner._
Take half an ounce of White Wax; dissolve it over a gentle fire in two ounces of Oil of Ben. Dress your skins with this Liquid, dry them on lines, and clean them well with the purest water; when they are dried and properly stretched, make them up into gloves, which are to have the Jasmine Flowers applied to them eight days according to the usual method; then bring them into shape, and fold them smooth. This manner of working them up, communicates to the gloves the property of retaining the scent of the Flowers much better than those that are drest otherwise, and likewise imparts to them the virtue of preserving the hands and arms delicately soft and white.
128. _Gloves scented without Flowers._
Take an ounce of Liquid Storax, an ounce of Rose-wood, the same quantity of Florentine Orrice, and half an ounce of Yellow Sanders. Beat the three last articles into a very fine powder, and add to it the Storax, with the earths that you use to dye your gloves, and a little Gum Arabic. Then take an equal quantity of Rose and Orange Flower Water, to temper this composition which you lay on your gloves; when they are dry, rub them well, and fold them up; then dress them afresh with a little Gum Water, in which has been dissolved some powder of Florentine Orrice; hang them up to dry, and afterwards bring them into form, and fold them up as fit for use.
129. _White Gloves scented with Ketmia or Musk Seed._
Take an ounce of Yellow Sanders, an ounce of Florentine Orrice, an ounce of Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Rose-wood, and a drachm of Storax; reduce the whole to fine powder, with as much Ceruss as you choose. Mix them with Rose-water, and dress your gloves with the mixture as neatly as you can for the first coat; then rub them well, and open them when they are thoroughly dry. Use the same for the second coat, with the addition of a little Gum Arabic. For the third coat, levigate on a marble, eight grains of Ketmia Seed, four grains of Civet, a little Oil of Ben, and a very little Gum Tragacanth, dissolved in Rose-water; add to this composition a quarter of a pint of Orange Flower Water; after having applied this third coat to your gloves, bring them into form, before they get thoroughly dry.
130. _To colour Gloves a curious French Yellow._
Take Chalk and Wood Ashes, of each an equal quantity, and make a strong Lye of them; then strain off the clear Liquor, and simmer it over the fire with a little Turmeric in powder, and a very little Saffron, till it becomes pretty thick; after which set the liquor by to cool, and it is fit for use.
131. _An excellent Perfume for Gloves._
Take Ambergrise, a drachm; the same quantity of Civet; and of Orange Flower Butter, a quarter of an ounce; mix these ingredients well, and rub them into the gloves with fine Cotton Wool, pressing the perfume into them.
132. _Or,_
Take of Essence of Roses, half an ounce; Oil of Cloves and Mace, of each a drachm; Frankincense, a quarter of an ounce; mix them, and lay them in papers between your gloves. Being hard pressed, the gloves will take the scent in twenty-four hours, and afterwards hardly ever lose it.
133. _An excellent Receipt to clear a tanned Complexion._
At night going to rest, bathe the face with the Juice of Strawberries, and let it lie on the part all night, and in the morning wash yourself with Chervil Water. The skin will soon become fair and smooth.
134. _Or,_
Wash yourself with the Mucilage of Linseed, Fleawort, Gum Tragacanth, or Juice of Purslain mixed with the White of an Egg.
BREATH.
135. _To sweeten the Breath._
At night, going to bed, chew about the quantity of a small Nut of fine Myrrh.
136. _Or,_
Chew every night and morning a Clove, a piece of Florentine Orrice-root, about the size of a small bean, or the same quantity of Burnt Alum.
OILS.
137. _A Cosmetic Oil._
Take a quarter of a pint of Oil of Sweet Almonds, fresh drawn; two ounces of Oil of Tartar per Deliquium; and four drops of Oil of Rhodium: mix the whole together, and make use of it to cleanse and soften the skin.
138. _Another Cosmetic Oil._
Take a pint of Cream, infuse in it a few Water Lilies, Bean Flowers, and Roses; simmer the whole together in a vapour-bath, and keep the Oil that proceeds from it in a vial, which is to be left for some time exposed to the evening dews.
139. _Oil of Wheat._
This Oil is extracted by an Iron Press, in the same manner as Oil of Almonds. It is excellent for Chaps in either the lips or hands, tetterous eruptions, and rigidity of the skin.
140. _Compound Oil, or Essence of Fennel._
Take five pints of the best French Brandy, and the same quantity of White-Wine; three quarters of a pound of bruised Fennel Seeds, and half an ounce of Liquorice Root sliced and bruised. Put the whole into an alembic, close the mouth with Parchment, and set it in a hot house, or in hot ashes, two days; then distil off the Liquor with an uniform middling fire. What remains after the distillation of the Essence, and is called the White Drops, is only fit to wash the hands with.
141. _To make Oil of Tuberoses and Jasmine._
Bruise a little the Tuberoses or Jasmine Flowers in a marble mortar with a wooden pestle; put them into a proper vessel, with a sufficient quantity of Oil of Olives, and let them stand in the sun in a close stopped vessel twelve or fifteen days to infuse; at the expiration of which time, squeeze the Oil from the Flowers. Let the Oil stand in the sun to settle, then pour it clear off the dregs. This Oil is very fragrant, and well impregnated with the Essential Oil of these Flowers. Infuse a fresh parcel of Flowers, newly gathered, in the same Oil, and proceed as before: repeat this operation twelve or fourteen times, or even oftener if necessary, till the Oil is fully impregnated with the flavour of the Flowers. Some people use Oil of Ben instead of Sallad Oil, which in our opinion is preferable, being infinitely less apt to grow rancid. The Oils of Tuberoses, and Jasmine Flowers are of use for the Toilet on account of their fragrancy. There are cases in which they may be successfully used externally by way of friction, to comfort and strengthen the nerves, and brace up the skin when too much relaxed.
142. _An Oil scented with Flowers for the Hair._
Sallad Oil, Oil of Sweet Almonds, and Oil of Nuts, are the only ones used for scenting the hair.
Blanch your Almonds in Hot Water, and when dry, reduce them to powder; sift them through a fine sieve, strewing a thin layer of Almond-powder, and one of Flowers, over the bottom of the Box lined with Tin. When the box is full, leave them in this situation about twelve hours; then throw away the Flowers, and add fresh ones in the same manner as before, repeating the operation every day for eight successive days. When the Almond-powder is thoroughly impregnated with the scent of the Flower made choice of, put it into a new clean Linen Cloth, and with an Iron Press extract the Oil, which will be strongly scented with the fragrant perfume of the Flower.
ESSENTIAL OILS, OR QUINTESSENCES.
143. _Essential Oil, commonly called Quintessence of Lavender._
Fill a cucurbit two thirds full with unwashed Lavender Flowers, pour upon them as much clear Water as will float about two inches above the Flowers. Fit to the cucurbit a head with a short neck, and lute on the refrigeratory vessel. Distil in the common manner with a fire of such a degree of strength as will cause the distilled water to run off in a thick thread. The phlegm and spirit will come over in a considerable quantity, and the Essential Oil, with which Lavender greatly abounds, will soon appear floating on the surface of the Water in the receiver; which is to be separated according to the rules of art. As soon as you perceive that no more Oil drops into the receiver, which generally happens to be the case a good while before the phlegm is entirely drawn off, finish your distillation. If you want a larger quantity of Quintessence, empty the still, put fresh Flowers, and adding the phlegm and spirit drawn off by the former distillation, instead of so much common Water, distil as before, till you have obtained a sufficient quantity. This Quintessence possesses great medicinal virtues, and is particularly serviceable in vapourish and hysteric disorders.
144. _To make Essence of Cinnamon._
Take half a pound of Cinnamon, reduce it in a mortar to an impalpable powder, put it into a very long necked matrass, pour on it as much highly rectified Spirit of Wine as will cover the powder about an inch. Stop the matrass with a found cork coated with bees-wax, and expose it to the sun for a whole month, observing to shake it well twice a day. At the expiration of the month, uncork the matrass, using the utmost precaution not to disturb the sediment; and gently pour off the Tincture into a clean vial.
145. _To make Quintessence of Cloves._
Take a pound of Cloves, beat them in a mortar, put them into a glass vessel, and pour on them a gallon of hot but not boiling water, cork the bottle close with a waxed cork, placed in a warm place, and let the Cloves infuse three weeks or a month; then empty the contents of the bottle into a middling sized still, fit on a low head with a short neck, and distil in the common manner, with a fire of such a degree of fierceness as to make the distilled Water run off in a stream, resembling a thick thread. The Quintessence will come over with the Spirit, mixed with a large quantity of Phlegm; but being heavier than either of those substances, will be found precipitated to the bottom of the receiver. Separate it in the usual manner, and keep it for use in a vial closely corked. Then unlute your still, and throw in the spirituous Water that remains after the separation of the Quintessence; distil it a second time, and you will obtain a small quantity more, which may be added to the former.
146. _A Cosmetic Juice._
Make a hole in a Lemon, fill it with Sugar Candy, and close it nicely with leaf Gold applied over the Rind that was cut out; then roast the Lemon in hot ashes. When desirous of using the Juice, squeeze out a little through the hole, and wash the face with a napkin wetted with it. This Juice greatly cleanses the skin, and brightens the complexion.
VIRGIN's MILK.
147. _A safe and approved Cosmetic._
Take equal parts of Gum Benjamin, and Storax, and dissolve them in a sufficient quantity of Spirit of Wine. The spirit will then become a reddish Tincture, and exhale a very fragrant smell. Some people add a little Balm of Gilead. Drop a few Drops into a glass of clear Water, and the Water, by stirring, will instantly become milky. Ladies use it successfully to clear the complexion, for which purpose nothing is better, or indeed so innocent and safe.
148. _Another, very easily made._
Beat a quantity of Houseleek in a marble mortar, squeeze out the Juice and clarify it. When you want to use it, pour a few drops of rectified Spirit on the Juice, and it will instantly turn milky. It is a very efficacious remedy for a pimpled face, and preserves the skin soft and smooth.
149. _Another._
Take a half-gallon bottle, pour into it a quart of Spirit of Wine, and a pint of clear Brandy; then add a quarter of a pound of the finest Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Storax, half an ounce of Cinnamon, two drachms of Cloves, and a Nutmeg, all bruised, and four drops of Quintessence of Egyptian Ketmia. Carefully cork the bottle, and expose it to the sun a month; but take it within doors in rainy weather. At the month's end, gently draw off the clear Tincture; and you will have a fragrant Milk, which is used by pouring a few drops on a wet napkin.
150. _A Liniment to destroy Vermin._
Take an ounce of Vinegar, the same quantity of Stavesacre, half an ounce of Honey, and half an ounce of Sulphur; mix into the consistence of a soft liniment, with two ounces of Sallad Oil.
LOTIONS.
151. _A Lotion to strengthen the Gums, and sweeten the Breath._
Take Mountain Wine, and the distilled Water of Bramble Leaves, of each a pint; half an ounce of Cinnamon; a quarter of an ounce of Cloves; the same quantity of Seville Orange-peel; Gum Lacque and Burnt Alum, of each a drachm, all in fine powder. Having added two ounces of fine Honey, put the whole into a glass bottle, and let them infuse on hot ashes the space of four days. On the fifth day squeeze the Liquor through a thick linen cloth, and preserve it in a bottle, well corked.
When the gums are relaxed, and want bracing, take a spoonful of this Liquid, and pour it into a glass. First use one half to rince the mouth; and after retaining it a little, spirt it out. Use the remainder in the same way, rubbing the gums with one of your fingers; and afterwards rince the mouth with warm-water. Repeat the operation every morning, or twice a day, if occasion requires.
To render this remedy more efficacious, add to the whole quantity of the Lotion half a pint of Cinnamon Water, distilled from White Wine.
The eastern nations, to procure a sweet breath, to render the teeth beautifully white, and fasten the gums, frequently chew boiled Chio Turpentine, or Gum Mastic. The Indians who live beyond the Ganges chew it all day long, and are so used to this habit, that they cannot without difficulty refrain from it.
The Spirituous Water of Guaiacum possesses the property of giving ease in the tooth-ache, and fastening the teeth in their sockets. The mouth is to be gargled with a quantity mixed in a glass of clear Water.
152. _Another Lotion to fasten the Teeth and sweeten the Breath._
Pour three pints of Water into an earthen or stone jar, dip in it four different times a red hot poker, and then immediately add an ounce of bruised Cinnamon, six grains of Burnt Alum, an ounce of powdered Pomegranate Bark, three ounces of fine Honey; of Vulnerary Water, Rue Water, and Myrtle Water, each a quarter of a pint; and of Brandy, half a pint. The whole being well mixed, tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar, and let it stand in the sun, or any warm place, for twenty-four hours; then strain off the Liquor through a thick linen cloth, or strong straining bag. Add to it two ounces of Spirit of Scurvy-grass, and keep it in a bottle, well corked. It is used in the same manner as the preceding Lotion.
153. _An admirable Lotion for the Complexion._
After having washed the face with Soap and Water, wash yourself with the following lixivium. Take clear Lees prepared from Vine Ashes, and to every pound of it, add an ounce of calcined Tartar, two drachms of Gum Sandarach, and as much Gum Juniper. Let this Lotion dry on the face without wiping it off, and afterwards wash yourself with Imperial Water.
154. _An admirable Varnish for the Skin._
Take equal parts of Lemon Juice, and Whites of new laid Eggs, beat them well together in a glazed earthen pan, which put on a slow fire, and keep the mixture constantly stirring with a wooden spatula, till it has acquired the consistence of soft butter. Keep it for use, and at the time of applying it, add a few drops of any Essence you like best. Before the face is rubbed with this varnish, it will be proper to wash with the distilled Water of rice. This is one of the best methods of rendering the complexion fair, and the skin smooth, soft, and shining.
155. _A Liniment to destroy Nits._
Take Oil of Bays, Oil of Sweet Almonds, and old Hogs Lard, of each two ounces, powdered Stavesacre, and Tansy Juice, of each half an ounce; Aloes, and Myrrh, of each a quarter of an ounce, the smaller Centaury and Salt of Sulphur, of each a drachm; mix the whole into a liniment. Before you use it, wash the hair with Vinegar.
156. _A Liniment to change the Beard and Hair black._
Take Oil of Costus, and Oil of Myrrh, of each an ounce and a half; mix them well in a leaden mortar, adding of Tar, the expressed Juice of Walnut Leaves, and Gum Labdanum, each half an ounce; Gall Nuts in fine powder, and Black Lead, of each a drachm and a half; the same quantity of Frankincense; and a sufficient quantity of Mucilage of Gum Arabic, prepared with a decoction of Gall Nuts. Apply it to the head and chin after being clean shaved.
157. _A Depilatory Liniment._