Part 34

[360] Meel-haven—apparently the Strogonov Bay of Lütke, who, in his account of his third voyage (p. 316), speaks of a tradition, according to which this was formerly the residence of some natives of Novogorod of that name. These settlers are not mentioned in the chronicles, nor is anything known respecting them, or the date or cause of their emigration. But assuming the remains found by Barentsz and his companions to be those of the Strogonovs, he deems it not unreasonable to place their arrival some twenty or thirty years earlier than the visit of the Hollanders; which date would correspond with the reign of John the Terrible (Yoan Grosnui), a period when the Novogoroders had the greatest reason to emigrate into the regions far distant from their native country. Indeed, it is not improbable that some of them may, at that time, have been banished to Novaya Zemlya. Lütke adds: “It is worthy of remark that our walrus-hunters give the name of Meal Cape to the western headland of Strogonov Bay; which name would seem to have originated in the six sacks of rye-meal which Barentz saw there. The remains of the dwellings of the Strogonovs lie close to Meal Cape.”—P. 317.

The same writer adverts also, but with disfavour, to the further tradition, that “the Strogonovs were visited by certain monsters with iron noses and teeth”. But when it is considered that the walrus must have been previously unknown to these natives of Novogorod, it is not unreasonable to imagine that animal to have given rise to what might otherwise well be regarded as a fable.

[361] Den 12 Aug.—on the 12th of August (omitted).

[362] Ende wendent tzeewaert in aen de wint—and tacked to seaward, hugging the wind.

[363] Van den eylanden—from the islands.

[364] Guessed.

[365] The large island of Kólguev, situate between Kanin Nos (Cape Kanin) and the entrance of the River Petchora. Its north-western extremity, according to Lütke’s observations (p. 324), is in 69° 29′ 30″ N. lat., and 48° 55′ E. long.

[366] Vlack water—shallow water.

[367] Marseylen—topsails.

[368] Leyde aen de wind—lay to the wind.

[369] This note of the bearing of the sun is only approximative, since the observation of the variation of the needle made on July 3rd (p. 10), shows that the sun came to the meridian between S.S.W. and S.W. by S.

[370] Matvyéyeva Ostrov and Dolgoi Ostrov, that is, Matvyéyev’s Island and Long Island.—Lütke, p. 20.

[371] These vessels were the Swan of Der Veere in Zeelandt, commanded by Cornelis Corneliszoon Nai, and the Mercury of Enckhuysen, commanded by Brandt Ysbrandtszoon, otherwise called Brandt Tetgales.

[372] Een ruyme zee—an open sea.

[373] Omtrent de lenghte van de revier Obi—about the longitude of the river Obi. In this, however, they were in error, as they were still only on the eastern side of the Kara Sea.—See Lütke, p. 32.

[374] De Caep Tabijn—the northernmost extremity of Siberia, now known by the name of Cape Taimur or Taimyr. It is the Tabis of Pliny.

[375] Uythoeck—the furthest point.

[376] Nae’t z. o. en voort nae’t zuyden—towards south-east, and then south-wards.

[377] Staten Eylandt—the Myasnoi Ostrov (Flesh Island) of the Russians.—Lütke, p. 31.

[378] Van cristal montaigne—of rock-crystal.

[379] Dreven—drifted.

[380] Steijlhoeckigh—precipitous.

[381] Kanin Nos, or Cape Kanin, at the north-eastern extremity of the White Sea, in 68° 33′ 18″ N. lat., and 43° 16′ 30″ E long.—Lütke, p. 341.

[382] W.n.w.—W.N.W.

[383] Waerhuysen—Wardhous, at the north-eastern extremity of Finmark, is in 70° 22′ N. lat., and 31° 5′ 35″ E. long.

[384] Op kermis dagh—on the day of the (Amsterdam) fair. During the time that Louis Bonaparte was King of Holland, the fair-day was changed from the 16th of September to the first Monday in the month, in honour of his birthday, which was the 2nd of September.

[385] Dae Jan Huyghen van Linschoten comis op was—whereof John Hugh van Linschoten was commissary or supercargo. This well-known traveller was born at Haarlem in 1563, and went at an early age to Portugal, whence he embarked for India. There he remained several years. Shortly after his return to Holland, he was appointed to take part in the first expedition to the North Seas, and sailed on board the Mercury of Enckhuysen (see page 36, note 3). He likewise accompanied the second expedition, and wrote an account of both voyages, as is mentioned more at length in the Introduction. He also published an account of his voyage to the East Indies, etc. Linschoten was afterwards treasurer of the town of Enckhuysen, and died there in 1633.—Biogr. Univ.

[386] Die de saeck vry wat breedt voort stelde—who represented the matter very favourably.

[387] Petrus Plancius, a celebrated theologian and mathematician, born in 1552, at Drenoutre in Flanders. He was one of the principal promoters and advisers of the various expeditions fitted out by the Dutch in the first years of their independence, so much to the advancement of science and to their own honour and advantage. At the synod of Dort, in 1619, Plancius was commissioned to revise the Dutch translation of the Old Testament in the “States Bible”. He died at Amsterdam on the 25th May, 1622.—Biogr. Univ.

[388] The original has 305 miles, which are equal to 1220 geographical miles. The distance meant is from the pole to the Arctic circle.

[389] Page 5.

[390] Gheberchte van Pireneen—the Pyrenees.

[391] Als dese aen de Noordt Zee ligghende Nederlanden—than these (our) Netherlands, which lie on the North Sea.

[392] In de ruyme Zee—in the open sea.

[393] By den Noorden om—round by the north.

[394] De Waygats oft Strate de Nassou. See page 27, note 4. By the Russians these straits are called Yugórskyi Schar.—Lütke, p. 29.

[395] Cape Taimur. See page 37, note 1.

[396] Die opperste Piloot was.

[397] Opper Comis—chief commissary or supercargo. Jacob Heemskerck was a native of Amsterdam, of a family of distinction still resident there. He took part in both the second and third voyages. He was afterwards employed in the navy of Holland, and served his country with great honour. In 1607, having the rank of vice-admiral, he commanded a fleet of twenty-six vessels sent against the Spaniards, and on the 25th of April fell in with the Spanish fleet, consisting of twenty ships and ten galleons, commanded by Don Juan Alvarez Davila. The engagement took place before Gibraltar; and on the second broadside Heemskerck had a leg carried away by a cannon-shot. He, however, continued to encourage his men, and retained his sword till he died. The Dutch gained a complete victory; seven vessels of the Spaniards were burned, and most of the remainder sunk; their admiral being killed, and his son taken prisoner. A superb monument was erected to Heemskerck in the old church at Amsterdam.—Moreri; Biogr. Univ.

[398] Ons den behoorlijcken eedt afghenomen is—we had been duly sworn. There is no reason for supposing that any special oath was administered, but merely the usual oath of service.

[399] Noorden ten oosten—N. by E.

[400] Ontrent zuyder son—when the sun was about south. (Omitted.)

[401] N. ten o.—N. by E.

[402] Tottet seste glas int eerste quartier.—Six half-hour glasses of the first watch would make the reckoned time to be 11 P.M. But from the context it would rather seem that the morning watch is meant, so that the time would be 7 A.M.

[403] Watch.

[404] Op de ly legghen—lying to.

[405] Des naenoens—in the afternoon.

[406] The bow of the ship.

[407] “Thirteenth.”—Ph.

[408] Totten 24 n. w. son—till N.W. sun [½ p. 7 P.M.] on the 24th.

[409] “Fifteenth.”—Ph.

[410] 71° 15′ N. lat.

[411] 72° 20′ N. lat.

[412] N. ten o.—N. by E.

[413] “19.”—Ph.

[414] Meest—mostly. (Omitted.)

[415] “North-west.”—Ph.

[416] Trompsont—Troms-oe, a small island on the coast of Norway, in about 69° 40′ N. lat.

[417] Met weynich coelts—with little wind.

[418] Ysbrandt de vice admirael. The admiral was Cornelius Nai. They had both taken part in the former expedition. See page 36, note 3. The title of admiral did not denote any fixed rank, but was given to the commander of the principal ship, under whose orders the others were. We should now call him the commodore.

[419] De windt was n. o. ten o. ende z. o. meest z. o. ende z.—the wind was N.E. by E. and S.E., but mostly S.E. and S.

[420] Middernacht—midnight.

[421] De Noordt-caep. The northernmost point of Europe; unless, indeed, we regard Spitzbergen as forming a portion of this quarter of the globe. The North Cape is not a part of the continent, but it is the extremity of a small island named Mager-oe.

[422] De Moer mette Dochters. Three remarkable islands, so called, lying off the coast of Norway.

[423] Doen quam tschip van Ysbrandt de vice admirael ende wy tsamen, ende maeckten malcanderen seer reddeloos—then the ship of Ysbrand, the vice-admiral, and ours ran foul, and damaged each other very much.

[424] Doen streecken wy de seylen—then we took in our sails. The translator appears to have carried this expression into the preceding sentence, of which he evidently did not understand the meaning.

[425] Hauled them up again.

[426] S. w.—South-west.

[427] Guessed, i.e., estimated.

[428] Noordtkien. The extreme northern point of the main land of Norway, and consequently of the continent of Europe.

[429] Soo dreven wy in stilte—so we drifted in a calm.

[430] Two hours.

[431] These were some merchant vessels, bound for the White Sea, with which the expedition had fallen in, and which now parted from it.

[432] Here again, as on the 15th of August (see page 36, note 1), the note of the sun’s bearing can only be regarded as approximative. It must, in fact, be understood to mean when the sun came to the meridian.

[433] Steeck—stiff; that is, good for anchorage.

[434] Steeck—stiff.

[435] Met veel cleyne stipkens—with many small specks.

[436] An hour and a half.

[437] Swarte stipkens—black specks.

[438] Zijn Excell. van Oraengien ende zijn broeder—his Excellency of Orange and his brother. These islands were so named by Cornelius Nai on the first voyage. But, according to Linschoten, Voyagie, ofte Schipvaert van by Noorden om, etc., fol. 19, retr., Orange Island was so called in honour of Prince Maurice’s father and the Princess of Orange.

Lütke (p. 32) identifies Maurice Island with Ostrov Dolgoi or Long Island, and Orange Island with Bolschoi Selénets or Great Greenland; and he is of opinion that the Hollanders, or at all events Linschoten, had no knowledge of Matvyéyev Island. But this is hardly consistent with that able navigator’s previous identification of the latter island with Matfloe, where (as is mentioned in page 36 of the present work) the vessels of Nai and Barentsz met on the first voyage. And, indeed, it may be demonstrated that Maurice Island is not Dolgoi, but Matfloe or Matvyéyev Island; that Orange Island is the small island, named Ostrov Golets, close to the northern extremity of Long Island or Dolgoi; and that Dolgoi itself is the Land of New Walcheren, which the Dutch hesitated to describe as an island or as a portion of the mainland, but which Lütke (p. 32) erroneously deems to be the latter.

Premising that Linschoten’s vessel, like that of Barentsz, passed between Matfloe and Dolgoi, the following description of the three islands above mentioned, given by Linschoten, will be found to be as conclusive as it is clear and intelligible. In fol. 18, that writer says:—“The island that lay to the north of us appeared to be of a roundish form, and on the side past which we sailed it was to the sight a short mile [3 or 4 miles] in extent. To the south of this island, and about a long mile [4 or 5 miles] distant, lay another island, which was the smallest and likewise the middlemost of the three. And from this middlemost island, about a short mile [3 or 4 miles] distant to the S.E., lay the third or southernmost island, which in appearance was much the largest, and which, as we sailed past it, lay on our left hand, and seemed on that side to be about a long mile [4 or 5 miles] in extent; but when on the other side, as we looked southwards at it, its west coast extended as far as we could see from the topmast, so that we doubted whether it was part of the continent or an island.” And in the chart which accompanies these remarks, Linschoten has the following note:—“Maurice Island lies with the Land of New Walcheren N.N.W. and S.S.E., about 2 [8] miles apart; and with the Island of Orange it lies N. and S., a long mile [4 or 5 miles] distant.”

On referring to Lütke’s chart, it will at once be manifest how closely Maurice Island, New Walcheren, and Orange Island, as thus described, correspond with Matvyéyev Island or Matfloe, Long Island or Dolgoi, and Golets Island, respectively; and if to this be added, that in that chart the passage between the islands is in about 69° 30′ N. lat., and that Linschoten, when distant from Maurice Island, by estimation, 10 [40] miles W. by N. or nearly W., found himself to be in 69° 34′ N. lat., while William Barentsz, when 2 [8] miles W. from the islands, made his latitude to be 69° 15′ N., there will remain no room for doubt on the subject.

[439] Meest steeck grondt met swarte stipkens ghemenght—mostly stiff ground mixed with black specks.

[440] Van de 70 graden—from the 70th parallel of north latitude.

[441] Steeck—stiff.

[442] Stipkens—spots.

[443] Ende was ghestadich hout loef ende draghende—and we kept continually luffing and falling off before the wind.

[444] Two hours.

[445] Beelthoeck. See page 27, note 4.

[446] De Samiuten landt—a part of the country of the Samoyedes, lying in the extreme north-east of the present government of Archangel.

[447] Wel moghelijck—well possible.

[448] Traenbay—Train-oil Bay.

[449] Den ysganck—the drifting of the ice.

[450] Diepste—the deepest.

[451] See page 10, note 2.

[452] A very unscientific, and indeed incorrect, mode of expressing the fact, that they were in 69° 21′ N. lat., as resulting from an observation of the sun.

[453] Opt lande van de Weygats—on land from the Weygats. De Veer adopts the vulgar error adverted to in page 27 (note 4) of the present work, and calls the Straits of Nassau, instead of the island to the north of these straits, by the name of “Weygats”.

[454] Diversche sleden met velwerck, traen, ende dierghelijcke waer—several sledges with skins, train-oil, and such like wares.

[455] Op den Beeldthoeck—at Image Point.

[456] Samiuten—Samoyedes.

[457] Van de Weygats—from Weygats. (Omitted.)

[458] De gheleghentheyt der zeevaert—the particulars of the navigation.

[459] Opt Waygats. Here, however, De Veer speaks of the Island of Waigatsch.

[460] Wy ... verder z. o. aen trocken nae den oever van der zee—we went further S.E. towards the sea-side. It is manifest, that while going towards the sea-side, they could not have gone further into the land.

[461] Schipper—captain or master of the vessel. Most probably William Barentsz is meant; though in page 63 Cornelis Jacobszoon is spoken of as the “schipper” of William Barentsz.

[462] The sea of Kara.

[463] Cruijs-hoeck; by the Russians called Sukhoi Nos.

[464] De Twist hoeck—Cape Dispute; so named, because, on the first voyage of Nai and Brandt Ysbrandtsz, a dispute arose between them as to whether or not the passage extended further eastward. Through a typographical error, the Dutch text has de tWist hoeck, whence has arisen the West Point of the translator. This is the Kóninoi Nos of the Russians.

[465] See page 33, note 6.

[466] The Petchora, a considerable river, which rises in the Ural mountains, and flows into the Arctic Ocean to the S. of Novaya Zemlya.

[467] Met bast tsamen ghenaeyet—sewed together with bast:—the inner bark of the linden or lime-tree (Tilia), of which is formed the Russian matting, so well known in commerce. The word bast, which in German and Dutch means “bark”, is in English frequently pronounced, and even written bass.

[468] Trayn—train-oil.

[469] Voorby de reviere Oby—beyond the river Oby.

[470] Linschoten has “to another river, which they said was called Gillissy”, meaning the large river Yenisei, which carries a great portion of the waters of Siberia into the Arctic Ocean.

[471] Dattet gat soude toe vriesen, ende alst begon te vriesen soudet dan stracks toe vriesen, ende datmen dan over ys mocht loopen tot in Tartarien over de zee, die zy noemden Mermare—ere the passage would be frozen over; and that when it once began to freeze, it would speedily be frozen over, so that they could walk over the ice to Tartary (Siberia) across the sea which they called Mermare.

[472] Die zy seer veel ... hadden—whereof they had many. (Omitted.)

[473] Van voren tot achteren—from stem to stern.

[474] Vleysch—meat.

[475] So hebbense daer alle t’samen van ghegheten, met hooft, met staert, met al, van boven af bytende—they one and all partook of them; and, biting from the head downwards, ate head, tail, and everything.

[476] Cruijs hoeck—Cross Point. See page 54, note 8.

[477] Twisthoeck—Cape Dispute. See note 1 in the preceding page.

[478] N. o. wel soo oostelijk—north-east a little easterly.

[479] De fock—the foresail.

[480] Aent vaste landt—to the main land; namely, the coast of Russia.

[481] Samiuten—Samoyedes.

[482] In twee hoopen—in two bodies.

[483] Two lines of Phillip’s translation, being from *, are printed twice by mistake.

[484] Dese gheleghentheyt ghevonden—availing himself of this opportunity.

[485] Wysende—pointing.

[486] Wysende nae’t z. o. op—pointing towards the south-east.

[487] Met een partye volcks—with a number of persons.

[488] Effenwel niet—not altogether.

[489] Rheeden—reindeer.

[490] Sledges.

[491] Pinnace.

[492] Sulcken beelden voor haer Goden—such images for their gods.

[493] Image Point. See page 53.

[494] Ontrent zuyder son—the sun being about south.

[495] From this it is manifest that a previous dispute had taken place, which is not recorded.

[496] Hem uyt ghehoort hadden—had heard him out.

[497] Willem Barentsz. Nai did not call him captain, but addressed him by his name.

[498] Willem Barentsz, siet wat ghy seght—mind what you say.

[499] Ons werp ancker—our kedge-anchor.

[500] Op een laghen wal—on a lee shore.

[501] Fore-sail.

[502] Met diversche reyse zijn werp-ancker uyt te brenghen—by repeatedly carrying out their kedger (and so warping out).

[503] Cape Dispute.

[504] Mosten stedts wenden—were forced continually to tack.

[505] De Wachters. The stars β and γ of the Little Bear were called by the earlier navigators of modern times le Guardie, les Gardes, the Guards, de Wachters, die Wächter, on account of their constantly going round the Pole, and, as it were, guarding it. See Ideler, Untersuchungen über die Sternnamen, p. 291. These names do not, however, appear to be used by seamen at the present day.

The Amsterdam Latin version of 1598 renders the expression of the Dutch text by “Ursa minor, quam nautæ vigiles vocant;” but, according to Ideler (loc. cit.), the corresponding term used by writers of the middle ages, is Circitores, signifying, according to Du Cange, “militares, qui castra circuibant, qui faisoient la ronde, et la sentinelle avancée, ut vulgo loquimur”.

In Il Penseroso, Milton speaks of “outwatching the Bear”, evidently alluding to the never-setting of the circumpolar stars:

“Arctos oceani metuentes æquore tingi.”

The time on the 3rd of September, when “the watchers were north-west”, was about ½ past 10 P.M.

[506] Staten Eylandt. See page 37, note 4.

[507] Den ysgangk—the drifting of the ice.

[508] Schieten—to shoot.

[509] Namely, pieces of rock-crystal. See page 37.

[510] Die by hem in de cuijl lach—that lay near him in the hollow.

[511] De beyr beet den eenen terstond thooft in stucken—the bear instantly bit the one man’s head in pieces.

[512] Haer roers ende spietsen gevelt—lowering their muskets and pikes.

[513] See page 26, note 2.

[514] Cornelis Jacobsz. de schipper van Willem Barentsz. William Barentsz was not in the capacity merely of commander of his own vessel, but in that of pilot-major of the fleet.

[515] Hans van Nuffelen, schryver van Willem Barentsz—i.e., his clerk or writer.

[516] Een Schotsman. From the intercourse which then existed, as now, between the opposite coasts of the German Ocean, there is nothing surprising in the fact of their having had such a person with them. The name of this individual is not recorded.

[517] In stucken spronghen—shivered in pieces.

[518] By de wal henen—along the coast. (Omitted.)

[519] Cape Dispute. See page 55, note 1.

[520] The Sea of Kara.

[521] Boat.

[522] Image Point. See page 60.

[523] W. z. w.—W.S.W.

[524] Moddich—dirty.

[525] Met sneejacht—with drifting snow.

[526] Also dat wy deur dreven—so that we drifted before it.

[527] Die stroom quam stijf—the current ran strong.

[528] Ende was tot den avondt—and till the evening it was.

[529] Aent vaste landt—to the main land.

[530] Voeren heel in de bocht achter het eylandt mette steert—went quite into the bay behind the island with the tail. This is a small island lying in the channel, with a long sand or shallow running out behind it like a tail. To the bay behind this island the Dutch gave the name of Brandts Bay.

[531] Een groot afwater—a great fall of water.

[532] Ende de stengh om hoogh—and set the top-mast. (Omitted.)

[533] Quam het ys weder om het oosteijnt vande Weygats in dryven—the ice came again drifting in round the east end of Weygats.

[534] See page 36, note 2.

[535] Watch.

[536] Courses.

[537] Stippelen—specks.

[538] Kanin Nos. See page 38, note 3.

[539] De fock—the fore-sail.

[540] Dreven—drifted.

[541] N. ten o.—N. by E.

[542] Met beyde mars-seylen—with both top-sails.

[543] Van den avont—from evening.

[544] One watch or four hours.

[545] Till half our second watch was out; that is, till 2 A.M.

[546] Two courses. See page 7, note 4.

[547] This and the preceding sentence should properly form but one, which should read thus:—After that, in the second watch, we tacked north-ward, and sailed till Friday morning, the 22nd Sept., N. by E., etc.

[548] Watch.

[549] Courses.

[550] Kilduin. See page 7, note 4.

[551] Maer quamen te laech—but fell short of it.

[552] Two watches, or eight hours.

[553] Teghen—towards.

[554] Guessed.

[555] Waerhuys. See page 39, note 1.

[556] Of men noch ten derdemael van slandts wegen wederom eenige toerustinge soude doen—whether any expedition should again for the third time be fitted out at the expense of the country.

[557] In the original no mention is made of any proclamation.

[558] Een mercklijcke somme—a considerable sum.

[559] Als schipper ende comis van de comanschappe, Jacob Heemskerck Heijndricksz.—as captain and supercargo of the merchandize.

[560] Jan Cornelisz. Rijp.

[561] The Vlie passage is frequented by ships bound northward which do not draw much water.

[562] De stroom verliep—the tide ran out.

[563] Raeckte aen de grondt—ran a-ground.

[564] Aen de oost zyde vant Vlie-landt—on the east side of Vlielandt: the island at the entrance of the Vlie, between it and Texel.

[565] De eylanden van Hitlandt ende Feyeril. Hitlandt is the Dutch name for the Islands of Shetland, anciently called Hialtland. Feyeril is Fair Isle, between Shetland and Orkney.

[566] Waeyde een topseijl—it blew a top-sail breeze.

[567] Graedtboogh. See page 10, note 2.

[568] This was the sun’s zenith distance, and not its elevation.

[569] Een wonderlijck hemel-teijcken—a wonderful phenomenon in the heavens.

[570] Wijdt rondtomme de sonnen—at a distance round about the suns.

[571] Dweers deur de groote ronde—right through the great circle (of the former rainbow).

[572] De onderste cant—its lower edge.

[573] The error noticed in the preceding page (note 10) is here repeated.