Part 30

The 20 of August, being not farre from the land, the north-east wind left vs, and then it began to blow stiffe north-west; at which time, seeing we could not make much way by sailing forward, we determined to put in betweene certaine clifts, and when we got close to the land we espied certaine crosses with warders [1534] vpon them, whereby we vnderstood that it was a good way, [1535] and so put into it. And being entred a litle way within it, we saw a great Russian lodgie [1536] lying at an anchor, whereunto we rowed as fast as we could, and there also we saw certaine houses wherein men dwelt. And when we got to the lodgie, we made our selues fast vnto it, [1537] and cast our tent ouer the scute, for as then it began to raine. Then we went on land into the houses that stood vpon the shore, where they showed vs great friendship, leading vs into their stoawes, [1538] and there dried our wet clothes, and then seething some fish, bade vs sit downe and eate somewhat with them. [1539] In those little houses we found thirteene Russians, who euery morning went out [in two boats] to fish in the sea; whereof two of them had charge ouer the rest. They liued very poorely, and ordinarily eate nothing but fish and bread. [1540] At euening, when we prepared our selues to go to our scute againe, they prayed the maister and me to stay with them in their houses, which the maister thanked them for, would not do [and went into the boat], but I stayed with them al that night. Besides those thirteene men, there was two Laplanders more and three women with a child, that liued very poorely of the ouerplus [1541] which the Russians gaue them, as a peece of fish and some fishes heades, which the Russians threw away and they with great thankfulnesse tooke them vp, so that in respect of their pouertie [and ill condition] we thought our selues to bee well furnished, [1542] and yet we had little inough, but as it seemed their ordinary liuing was in that manner. And we were forced to stay there for that the wind being north-west, it was against vs.

The 21 of August it rained most part of the day, but not so much after dinner as before. Then our master brought [1543] good store of fresh fish, which we sod, [1544] and eate our bellies full, which in long time we had not done, and therewith sod some meale and water in steed of bread, whereby we were well comforted. After noone, when the raine began to lessen, we went [at times a little] further into the land and sought for some leple leaues, [1545] and then we saw two men vpon ye hilles, whereupon we said one to the other, hereabouts there must more people dwel, for there came two men towards vs, but we, regarding them not, went back againe to our scute and towards the houses. The two men that were vpon the hilles (being some of our men that were in the [other] boate,) perceauing [also] the Russian lodgie, came downe the hill towards her to buy [1546] some victuales of them; who being come thither vnawares [1547] and hauing no mony about them, they agreed betweene them to put off one of their paire of breeches, (for that as then we ware two or three paire one ouer the other,) to sel them for some victuals. [1548] But when they came downe the hill and were somewhat neerer vnto vs, they espied our scute lying by the lodgie, and we as then beheld them better and knew them; wherewith we reioyced [much on both sides], and shewed each other of our proceedings and how we had sailed to and fro in great necessity and hunger and yet they had been in greater necessitie and danger then we, and gaue God thankes that he had preserued vs aliue and brought vs together againe. And then we eate something together, and dranke of the cleare water, such as runneth along by Collen through the Rein, [1549] and then we agreed that they should come vnto vs, that we might saile together.

The 22 of August the rest of our men [1550] with the boate came unto vs about the east south-east sunne, whereat we much reioyced, and then we prayed the Russians cooke to bake a sacke of meale for vs and to make it bread, paying him for it, which he did. And in the meane time, when the fishermen came with their fishe out of the sea, our maister bought foure cods of them, which we sod and eate. And while we were at meat, the chiefe of the Russians came vnto vs, and perceiuing that we had not much bread, he fetcht a loaf and gave it vs, and although we desired them to sit downe and eate some meat with vs, yet we could by no means get them to graunt thereunto, because it was their fasting day and for yt we had poured butter and fat into our fish; nor we could not get them once to drinke with us, because our cup was somewhat greasie, they were so superstitious touching their fasting and religion. Neither would they lend vs any of their cups to drinke in, least they should likewise be greased. At that time the wind was [constantly] north-west.

The 23 of August the cooke began to knead our meale, and made vs bread thereof; which being don, and the wind and the weather beginning to be somewhat better, we made our selues ready to depart from thence; at which time, when the Russians came from fishing, our maister gaue their chiefe commander a good peece of mony [1551] in regard of the frendship that he had shewed vs, and gaue some what also to the cooke, [1552] for the which they yielded vs great thankes. At which time, the chiefe of the Russians [having before] desired our maister to giue him some gunpowder, which he did, [and he also thanked him much.] And when we were ready to saile from thence, we put a sacke of meale [out of our boat] into the boate, [1553] least we should chance to stray one from the other againe, that they might help themselues therewith. And so about euening, when the sunne was west, we set saile and departed from thence when it began to be high water, and with a north-east wind held our course north-west along by the land.

The 24 of August the wind blew east, and then, the sunne being east, we got to the Seuen Islands, [1554] where we found many fishermen, of whom we enquired after Cool and Kilduin, and they made signes that they lay west from vs, (which we likewise gest to be so.) And withall they shewed vs great frendship, and cast a cod into our scute, but for that we had a good gale of wind [1555] we could not stay to pay them for it, but gaue them great thanks, much wondering at their great courtesy. And so, with a good gale of wind, we arriued before the Seven Islands when the sun was south-west, and past between them and the land, and there found certaine fishermen, that rowed to vs, [1556] and asked vs where our crable (meaning our ship) was, whereunto wee made answer with as much Russian language as we had learned, and said, Crable pro pal [1557] (yt is, our ship is lost), which they vnderstanding said vnto vs, Cool Brabouse crable, [1558] whereby we vnderstood that at Cool there was certaine Neatherland ships, but we made no great account thereof, because our intent was to saile to Ware-house, [1559] fearing least the Russians or great prince of the country would stay vs there. [1560]

The 25 of August, sailing along by the land with a south-east wind, about the south sun we had a sight of Kilduin, at which time we held our course west north-west. And sailing in that manner between Kilduin and the firme land, about the south south-west sunne we got to the west end of Kilduin. And being there [we] lookt [out sharp] if we could see any houses or people therein, and at last we saw certaine Russian lodgies [1561] that lay [hauled up] upon the strand, and there finding a conuenient place for vs to anchor with our scutes while we went to know if any people were to be found, our maister put in with the land, [1562] and there found five or six small houses, wherein the Laplanders dwelt, of whom he [1563] asked if that were Kilduin, whereunto they made answere and shewed vs that it was Kilduin, and said yt at Coola there lay three Brabants crables or ships, whereof two were that day to set saile; which we hearing determined to saile to Ware-house, and about the west south-west sunne put off from thence with a south-east wind. But as we were vnder saile, the wind blew so stiffe [from the south-east] that we durst not keepe the sea in the night time, for that the waues of the sea went so hollow, that we were still in doubt that they would smite the scutes to the ground, [1564] and so tooke our course behind two clifts [1565] towards our land. And when we came there, we found a small house vpon the shore, wherein there was three men and a great dogge, which receiued vs very friendly, asking vs of our affaires and how we got thither; whereunto we made answere and shewed them that we had lost our ship, and that we were come thither to see if we could get a ship that would bring vs into Holland; whereunto they made vs answere, as the other Russians had done, that there was three ships at Coola, whereof two were to set saile from thence that day. Then we asked them if they would goe with one of our men by land to Coola, to looke for a ship wherewith we might get into Holland, and said we would reward them well for their paines; but they excused themselues, and said that they could not go from thence, but they sayd that they would bring vs ouer the hill, where we should finde certaine Laplanders whom they thought would goe with vs, as they did; for the maister and one of our men going with them ouer the hill, found certaine Laplanders there, whereof they got one to go with our man, promising him two royals of eight [1566] for his pains. And so the Laplander going with him, tooke a peece on his necke, [1567] and our man a boate hooke, and about euening they set forward, [1568] the wind as then being east and east north-east.

The 26 of August it was faire weather, the wind south-east, at which time we drew vp both our scutes vpon the land, and tooke all the goods out of them, to make them the lighter. [1569] Which done, we went to the Russians and warmed vs, and there dressed such meates [1570] as we had; and then againe wee began to make two meales a day, when we perceiued that we should euery day find more people, and we drank of their drink which they call quas, [1571] which was made of broken peeces of [mouldy] bread, and it tasted well, for in long time we had drunke nothing else but water. Some of our men went [somewhat] further into the land, and there found blew berries and bramble berries, [1572] which they plucked and eate, and they did us much good, for we found that they [perfectly] healed vs of our loosenesse. [1573] The wind still blew south-east.

The 27 of August it was foule weather with a great storm [out of the] north and north north-west, so that in regard that the strand was low, [1574] and as also for that the spring tide was ready to come on, we drew our scutes a great way vp vpon the land. [And when we had thus drawn them much higher up than we had done before, on account of the high water [1575]], we went [still further upwards] to the Russians, to warme vs by their fire and to dress our meate. Mean time the maister sent one of our men to the sea side to our scutes, to make a fire for vs vpon the strand, that when we came we might finde it ready, and that in the meane time the smoake might be gone. And while [the] one of our men was there, and the other was going thither, [1576] the water draue so high that both our scutes were smitten into the water and in great danger to be cast away; for in the scute there was but two men and three in the boate, who with much labour and paine could hardly keep the scutes from being broken vpon the strand. [1577] Which we seeing, were in great doubt, [1578] and yet could not help them, yet God be thanked he had then brought vs so farre that neuerthelesse we could haue gotten home, although we should have lost our scutes, as after it was seene. That day and all night it rained sore, whereby we indured great trouble and miserie, being throughly wet, and could neither couer nor defend our selues from it; and yet they [who were] in the scutes indured much more, being forced to bee in that weather, and still in daunger to bee cast vpon the shore. [1579]

The 28 of August it was indifferent good weather, and then we drew the scutes vpon the land againe, that we might take the rest of the goods out of them, [in order to avoid the like danger in which the boats had been,] because the wind still blew hard north and north north-west. And hauing drawne the scutes vp, we spread our sailes vpon them to shelter vs vnder them, for it was still mistie and rainie weather, much desiring to heare some newes of our man that was gone to Coola with the Lapelander, to know if there were any shipping at Coola to bring vs into Holland. And while we laie there we went [daily] into the land and fetcht some blew berries and bramble berries [1580] to eate, which did vs much good.

The 29 of August it was indifferent faire weather, and we were still in good hope [1581] to heare some good newes from Coola, and alwaies looked vp towards the hill to see if our man and the Lapelander came; but seeing they came not [1582] we went to the Russians againe, and there drest our meate [at their fire], and then ment [1583] to goe to our scutes to lodge in them all night. In the meane time we spied the Laplander [upon the hill] comming alone without our man, whereat we wondred and were some what in doubt; [1584] but when he came vnto vs, he shewed vs a letter that was written vnto our maister, which he opened before vs, the contents thereof being that he that had written the letter wondred much at our arriuall in that place, and that long since he verily thought that we had beene all cast away, [1585] being exceeding glad of our happy fortune, [1586] and how that he would presently come vnto vs with victuales and all other necessaries to succour vs withall. We being in no small admiration who it might be that shewed vs so great fauour and friendship, could not imagine what he was, for it appeared by the letter that he knew vs well. And although the letter was subscribed “by me John Cornelison Rip,” [1587] yet we could not be perswaded that it was the same John Cornelison, who the yeere before had beene set out in the other ship [at the same time] with vs, and left vs about the Beare Iland. [1588] For those goode newes we paid the Lapelander his hier, [1589] and beside that gaue him hoase, breeches and other furniture, [1590] so that he was apparelled like a Hollander; for as then we thought our selues to be wholy out of danger, [1591] and so being of good comfort, we laid vs downe to rest. Here I cannot chuse but shew you how fast the Lapelander went: for when hee went to Coola, as our companion told vs, they were two dayes and two nights on the way, and yet went a pace, and when he came backe againe he was but a day and a night comming to vs, which was wonderful, it being but halfe ye time, so that we said, and verily thought, that he was halfe a coniurer; [1592] and he brought vs a partridge, which he had killed by the way as he went.

The 30 of August it was indifferent faire weather, we still wondering who that John Cornelison might be that had written vnto vs; and while we sat musing thereon, some of vs were of opinion that it might be the same John Cornelison that had sayled out of Holland in company with vs, which we could not be perswaded to beleeue, because we were in as little hope of his life as hee of ours, supposing that he had sped worse then we, and long before that had [perished or] beene caste away. At last the master said, I will looke amongst my letters, for there I haue his name written, [1593] and that will put us out of doubt. And so, looking amongst them, we found that it was the same John Cornelison, wherewith we were as glad of his safety and welfare as he was of ours. And while we were speaking thereof, and that some of vs would not beleeue that it was the same John Cornelison, we saw a Russian joll [1594] come rowing, with John Cornelison and our companion that we had sent to Coola; who being landed, we receiued and welcomed each other wt great joy and exceeding gladnesse, as if either of vs on both sides had seene each other rise from death to life again; for we esteemed him, and he vs, to be dead long since. He brought vs a barrell of Roswicke beere, [1595] wine, aqua uite, [1596] bread, flesh, bacon, salmon, suger, and other things, which comforted and releeued vs much. And wee rejoyced together for our so vnexpected [safety and] meeting, at that time giuing God great thankes for his mercy shewed vnto vs.

The 31 of August it was indifferent faire weather, the wind easterly, but in the evening it began to blow hard from the land; and then we made preparation to saile from thence to Coola, first taking our leaues of the Russians, and heartily thanking them for their curtesie showed vnto vs, and gaue them a peece of money [1597] for their good wils, and at night about the north sunne we sailed from thence with a high water. [1598]

The 1 of September in the morning, with the east sunne, we got to ye west side of the river of Coola, [1599] and entered into it, where we [sailed and] rowed till the flood was past, and then we cast the stones that serued vs for anchors vpon the ground, at a point of land, till the flood came in againe. And when the sunne was south, wee set saile againe with the flood, and so sailed and rowed till midnight, and then we cast anchor againe till morning.

The 2 of September in the morning we rowed vp the riuer, and as we past along we saw some trees on the riuer side, which comforted vs and made vs as glad as if we had then come into a new world, for in all the time yt we had beene out we had not seene any trees; and when we were by the salt kettles, [1600] which is about three [12] miles from Coola, we stayed there awhile and made merry, and then went forward againe, and with the west north-west sun got to John Cornelisons ship, wherein we entred and drunke. [1601] There wee began to make merry againe with the sailers that were therein and that had beene in the voiage with John Cornelison the yeare before and bad each other welcome. Then we rowed forward, and late in the euening got to Coola, where some of vs went on land, and some stayed in the scutes to looke to the goods, to whom we sent milke and other things to comfort and refresh them; and we were all exceeding glad that God of his mercy had deliuered vs out of so many dangers and troubles, and had brought vs thither in safety: for as then wee esteemed our selues to be safe, although ye place in times past, lying so far from vs, was as much vnknowne vnto vs as if it had beene out of the world, and at that time, being there, we thought yt we were almost at home.

The 3 of September we vnladed all our goods, and there refreshed our selues after our toylesome and weary iourney and the great hunger that we had indured, thereby to recouer our healthes and strengthes againe.

The 11 of September, [1602] by leaue and consent of the bayart, [1603] gouernour for the Great Prince of Muscouia, we brought our scute and our boate into the merchants house, [1604] and there let them stand [1605] for a remembrance of our long, farre, and neuer before sailed way, and that we had sailed in those open scutes almost 400 Dutch [1600] miles, through and along by the sea coasts to the towne of Coola, whereat the inhabitants thereof could not sufficiently wonder.

The 15 of Sep[tember] we went into a lodgie [and sailed down the river] wt all our goods and our men to John Cornelisons ship, which lay about half a mile [2 miles] from the towne, and that day [at noon] sailed in the ship [further] downe the riuer til we were beyond the narrowest part therof, which was about half the riuer, and there staied for John Cornelison and our maister, that said they would come to vs the next day.

The 17 of September [in the evening] John Cornelison and our maister being come abord, the next day about the east sunne we set saile out of the riuer [of] Coola, and with Gods grace put to sea to saile hom-wards; and being out of the riuer we sailed along by the land north-west and by north, the wind being south.

The 19 of September, about the south sunne, we got to Ware-house, and there ankored and went on land, because John Cornelison was there to take in more goods, and staid there til the sixt of October, in the which time we had a [1606] hard wind out of the north and north-west. And while we stayed there we refreshed our selues somewhat better, to recouer [from] our sicknesse and weaknesse againe, that we might grow stronger, which asked sometime, [1607] for we were much spent and exceeding weake.

The 6 of October, about euening, the sunne being south-west, we set saile, and with Gods grace, from Ware-house for Holland; but for that it is a common and well knowne way, I will speak nothing thereof, only that vpon the 29 October we ariued in the Mase [1608] with an east north-east wind, and the next morning got to Maseland sluce, [1609] and there going on land, from thence rowed to Delfe, and then to the Hage, and from thence to Harlem; [1610] and vpon the first of Nouember about noone got to Amsterdam, in the same clothes that we ware in Noua Zembla, with our caps furd with white foxes skins, [1611] and went to the house of Peter Hasselaer, that was one of the marchants that set out the two ships, [1612] which were conducted by John Cornelison and our maister. And being there, where many men woundred to see vs, as hauing estemed vs long before that to haue bin dead and rotten, the newes thereof being spread abroad in the towne, it was also caried to the Princes Courte in the Hage, [1613] at which time the Lord Chancelor of Denmark, ambassador for the said king, was then at dinner with Prince Maurice. [1614] For the which cause we were presently fetcht thither by the scout and two of the burgers of the towne, [1615] and there in the presence of those ambassadors [1616] and the burger masters we made rehearsall of our journey both forwards and backewards. [1617] And after that, euery man that dwelt thereabouts went home, but such as dwelt not neere to that place were placed in good lodgings for certaine daies, vntill we had receiued our pay, and then euery one of vs departed and went to the place of his aboad.

The Names of those that came home againe from this [1618] Voiage were [1619]:—

Jacob Hemskeck, Maister and Factor. Peter Peterson Vos. Geret de Veer. Maister Hans Vos, Surgion. Jacob Johnson, Sterenburg. Lenard Hendrickson. Laurence Williamson. John Hillbrantson. Jacob Johnson Hooghwont. Peter Cornelison. John Vous Buysen. and Jacob Euartson.

FINIS.

These make up the ship’s company, which originally consisted of seventeen persons in all. The seeming discrepancy with regard to two of the names, as they appear in the list in page 193, is easily explained away. Iacob Ianszoon Hooghwout, of Schiedam, and Ian van Buysen Reynierszoon, have here their family names given in addition to their patronymics, which latter alone they had signed in the former list.

APPENDIX.

A LETTER FROM JOHN BALAK TO GERARD MERCATOR.—HENRY HUDSON’S ACCOUNT OF HIS VISIT TO NOVAYA ZEMLYA.—WRITINGS OF WILLIAM BARENTS PRESERVED BY PURCHAS.

APPENDIX.

I.

A LETTER FROM JOHN BALAK TO GERARD MERCATOR.

[Hakluyt, Principal Navigations, vol. i, pp. 509–510.]

A learned epistle, written, 1581, unto the famous Cosmographer, M. Gerardus Mercator, concerning the riuer Pechora, Naramsay, Cara reca, the mighty riuer of Ob, the place of Yaks Olgush in Siberia, the great riuer Ardoh, the lake of Kittay called of the borderers Paraha, [and] the countrey of Carrah Colmak; giving good light to the discouery of the northeast passage to Cathay, China, and the Malucaes.