Part 29

The 3 of August, about the north sun, the weather being somewhat better, we agreed amongst our selues to leaue Noua Zembla and to crosse ouer to Russia; and so committing our selues to God, we set saile with a north-west wind, and sailed south south-west till the sun was east, and then we entred into ice againe, which put vs in great feare, for we had crost ouer and left the ice vpon Noua Zembla, [1432] and were in good hope yt we should not meet with any ice againe in so short space. At which time, being [thus] in the ice, with calme weather, whereby our sailes could doe vs no great good, we stroke [1433] our sailes and began to row againe, and at last we rowed clean through the ice, [1434] not without great and sore labour, and about the south-west sunne got cleere thereof and entred into the large sea, [1435] where we saw no ice; and then, what with sailing and rowing, we had made 20 [80] miles. And so sailing forwards we thought to aproch neere vnto the Russian coast, but about the north-west sunne we entred into the ice againe, and then it was very cold, wherewith our hearts became very heauy, fearing that it would alwaies continew in that sort, and that we should neuer be freed thereof. And for that our boate [1436] could not make so good way nor was not able to saile aboue [1437] the point of ice, we were compelled to enter into the ice, for that being in it we perceiued open sea beyond it; but the hardest matter was to get into it, for it was very close, but at last we found a meanes to enter, and got in. And being entred, it was somewhat better, and in the end with great paine and labour we got into the open water. Our maister, that was in the scute, [1438] which sailed better than our boate, [1439] got aboue [1440] the point of the ice, and was in some feare that we were inclosed with ye ice; but God sent vs the meanes to get out from it as soone as he could saile about the point thereof, [1441] and so we met together againe.

The 4 of August, about the south-east sunne, being gotten out of the ice, we sailed forward with a north-west wind, and held our course [mostly] southerly; and when the sunne was [about] south, at noone time, we saw the coast of Russia lying before vs, whereat we were exceeding glad; and going neerer vnto it, we stroke [1442] our sailes and rowed on land, and found it to be very low land, like a bare strand that might be flowed ouer with the water. [1443] There we lay till the sunne was south-west; but perceiuing that there we could not much further our selues, hauing as then sailed from the point of Noua Zembla (from whence we put off) thither ful 30 [120] miles, we sailed forward along by the coast of Russia with an indifferent gale of wind, and when the sunne was north we saw another Russian iolle or ship, [1444] which we sailed vnto to speake with them; and being hard by them, they came al aboue hatches, [1445] and we cried vnto them, Candinaes, Candinaes, [1446] whereby we asked them if we were about Candinaes, but they cryed againe and sayd, Pitzora, Pitzora, [1447] to shew vs that we were thereabouts. And for yt we sailed along by the coast, where it was very drie, [1448] supposing that we held our course west and by north, that so we might get beyond the point of Candinaes, we were wholy deceiued by our compas, that stood vpon a chest bound with yron bands, which made vs vary at least 2 points, whereby we were much more southerly then we thought our course had bin, and also farre more easterly, for we thought verily that we had not bin farre from Candinaes, and we were three daies sailing from it, as after we perceiued; [1449] and for that we found our selues to be so much out of our way, we stayed there all night til day appeared.

The 5 of August, lying there, one of our men went on shore, and found the land further in to be greene and ful of trees, [1450] and from thence called to vs to bid vs bring our peeces on shore, saying that there was wild deere to be killed, [1451] which made vs exceeding glad, for then our victuales were almost spent, and we had nothing but some broken bread, [1452] whereby we were wholy out of comfort, and [1453] some of vs were of opinion that we should leaue the scutes and goe further into the land, or else (they said) we should all die with hunger, for that many daies before we were forced to fast, and hunger was a sharpe sword which we could hardly endure any longer.

The 6 of August the weather began to be somewhat better; at which time we determined to row forward, because the wind was [dead] against vs, [so] that we might get out of the creeke, [1454] the wind being east south-east, which was our course as then. And so, hauing rowed about three [12] miles, we could get no further because it was so full in the wind, and we al together heartlesse and faint, the land streatching further north-east then we made account it had done, [1455] whereupon we beheld each other in pittifull manner, for we had great want of victuals, and knew not how farre we had to saile before we should get any releefe, for al our victuals was almost consumed.

The 7 of August, the wind being west north-west, it serued vs well to get out of that creeke, and so we sailed forward east and by north till we got out of the creeke, to the place and the point of land where we first had bin, and there made our scutes fast again; for the north-west wind was right against vs, whereby our mens hearts and courages were wholy abated, to see no issue how we should get from thence; for as then sicknesses, hunger, and no meanes to be found how to get from thence, consumed both our flesh and our bloud; but if we had found any releefe, [1456] it would haue bin better with vs.

The 8 of August there was no better weather, but still the wind was [dead] against vs, and we lay a good way one from the other, as we found best place for vs; at which time there was most dislike [1457] in our boate, in regard that some of vs were exceeding hungrie and could not endure it any longer, but were wholy out of heart still [1458] wishing to die.

The 9 of August it was all one weather, so that the wind blowing contrary we were forced to lye still and could goe no further, our greefe still increasing more and more. At last, two of our men went out of the scute wherein the maister was, which we perceiuing two of our men also landed, and went altogether about a mile [4 miles] into the countrie, [1459] and at last saw a banke, by the which there issued a great streame of water, [1460] which we thought to be the way from whence the Russians came betweene Candinaes and the firme land of Russia. [1461] And as our men came backe againe, in the way as they went along they found a dead sea-horse [1462] that stanke exceedingly, which they drew with them to our scute, [1463] thinking that they should haue a dainty morsell [1464] out of it, because they endured so great hunger; but we [dissuaded them from it, and] told them that without doubt it would kil us, and that it were better for vs to endure pouerty and hunger for a time, then to venture vpon it; saying, that seeing God, who [1465] in so many great extremitys had sent vs a happy issue, stil liued and was exceeding powerfull, we hoped and nothing doubting that he would not altogether forsake vs, but rather helpe vs when we were most in dispaire. [1466]

The 10 of August it was stil a north-west wind, with mistie and darke [1467] weather, so that we were driuen [1468] to lie still; at which time it was no need for vs to aske one another how we fared, for we could well gesse it by our countenances.

The 11 of August, in the morning, it was faire calme weather; so that, the sunne being about north-east, the master sent one of his men to vs to bid vs prepare our selues to set saile, but we had made our selues ready thereunto before he came, and [had] began to rowe towards him. At which time, for that I was very weake and no longer able to rowe, as also for that our boate [1469] was harder to rowe then the scute, [1470] I was set in the scute to guide the helme, and one that was stronger was sent out of the scute into the boate to rowe in my place, that we might keepe company together; and so we rowed till ye sunne was south, and then we had a good gale of wind out of the south, which made vs take in our oares, and then we hoised vp our sailes, wherewith we made good way; but in the euening the wind began to blowe hard, whereby we were forced to take in our sailes and to rowe towards the land, where we laid our scutes vpon the strand, [1471] and went on land to seeke for fresh water, but found none. And because we could goe no further, we laid our sailes ouer the boates to couer vs from the weather; at which time it began to raine very hard, and at midnight it thundred and lightned, with more store of raine, where with our company were much disquieted to see that they found no meanes of releefe, but still entred into further trouble and danger.

The 12 of August it was faire weather; at which time, the sunne being east, we saw a Russia lodgie [1472] come towards vs with al his sailes vp, wherewith we were not a little comforted, which we perceauing from the strand, where we laie with our scutes, we desired the master that we might goe [1473] vnto him to speake with him, and to get some victuales of them; and to that end we made as much haste as we could to launche out our scutes, [1474] and sailed toward them. And when we got to them, the master went into the lodgie to aske them how farre we had to Candinaes, which we could not well learne of them because we understood them not. They held vp their fiue fingers vnto vs, but we knew not what they ment thereby, but after we perceaued that thereby they would show us that there stood five crosses upon it; and they brought their compas out and shewed vs that it lay north-west from us, which our compas also shewed vs, which reckning also we had made; but when we saw we could haue no better intelligence from them, the master went further into their ship, and pointed to a barrell of fish yt he saw therein, making signes to know whether they would sel it vnto vs, showing them a peece of 8 royles; [1475] which they vnderstanding, gave vs 102 fishes, with some cakes which they had made of meale when they sod [1476] their fishe. And about the south sunne we left them, being glad that we had gotten some victuales, for long before we had had but two [1477] ounces of bread a day with a little water, and nothing else, and with that we were forced to comfort our selues as well as we could. The fishes we shared amongst vs equally, to one as much as another, [1478] without any difference. And when we had left them, we held our course west and by north, with a south and a south and by east wind; and when the sunne was west south west it began to thunder and raine, but it continued not long, for shortly after the weather began to cleare vp againe; and passing forward in that sort, we saw the sunne in our common compas go downe north and by west. [1479]

The 13 of August we [again] had the wind against vs, being west south-west, and our course was west and by north, whereby we were forced to put to the shore againe, where two of our men went on the land to see how it laie, and whether the point of Candinaes reacht not out from thence into the sea, for we gest that we were not farre from it. Our men comming againe, showed vs that they had seene a house vpon the land, but no man in it, and said further that they could not perceaue but that it was the point of Candinaes that we had seene, wherewith we were somewhat comforted, and went into our scutes againe, and rowed along by the land; at which time hope made vs to be of good comfort, and procured vs to doe more then we could well haue done, for our liues and maintenance consisted therein. And in that sort rowing along by the land, we saw an other Russian iollie [1480] lying vpon the shore, which was broken in peeces; but we past by it, and a little after that we saw a house at the water-side, whereunto some of our men went, wherein also they found no man, but only an ouen. And when they came againe to the scute, they brought some leple leaues [1481] with them, which they had found [1482] as they went. And as we rowed along by the point, we had [again] a good gale of winde [1483] out of the east, at which time we hoised vp our sailes and sailed foreward. And after noone, about the south-west sunne, we perceaued that the point which we had seene laie south-ward, whereby we were fully perswaded that it was the point of Candinaes, from whence we ment [1484] to saile ouer the mouth of the White Sea; [1485] and to that end we borded each other and deuided our candles and all other things that we should need amongst vs, [1486] to helpe our selues therewith, and so put of from the land, thinking to passe ouer the White Sea to the coast of Russia. [1487] And sailing in that sort with a good winde, about midnight there rose a great storme out of the north, wherewith we stroke saile and made it shorter; [1488] but our other boate, that was harder vnder saile, [1489] (knowing not that we had lessened our sailes,) sailed foreward, whereby we straied one from the other, for then it was very darke.

The 14 of August in the morning, it being indifferent good weather with a south-west wind, we sailed west north-west, and then it began to cleare vp, so that we [just] saw our [other] boate, and did what we could to get vnto her, but we could not, because it began to be mistie weather againe; and therefore we said unto each other, let vs hold on our course, we shal finde them wel enough on the north coast, when we are past the White Sea. [1490] Our course was west north-west, the wind being south-west and by west, and about the south-west sunne, we could get no further, because the wind fel contrary, whereby we were forced to strike our sailes and to row forward; and in that sort, rowing till the sunne was west, there blew an indifferent gale of wind [1491] out of the east, and therewith we set saile (and yet we rowed with two oares) till the sunne was north north-west, and then the wind began to blow somewhat stronger east and east south-east, at which time we tooke in our oares and sailed forward west north-west.

The 15 of August wee saw the sunne rise east north-east, wherevpon we thought that our compasse varied somewhat; [1492] and when the sunne was east it was calme weather againe, wherewith we were forced to take in our sailes and to row againe, but it was not long before wee had a gale of winde [1493] out of the south-east, and then we hoysed vp our sailes againe, and went forward west and by south. And sayling in that manner with a good forewind, [1494] when the sunne was south we saw land, [1495] thinking that as then we had beene on the west side of the White Sea beyond Cardinaes; and being close vnder the land, we saw sixe Russian lodgies [1496] lying there, to whom we sailed and spake with them, asking them how far wee were from Kilduin; [1497] but although they vnderstood vs not well, yet they made vs such signes that we vnderstood by them that we were still farre from thence, and that we were yet on the east side of Candinaes. And with that they stroke their hands together, [1498] thereby signifying yt we must first passe ouer the White Sea, and that our scutes were too little to doe it, and that it would be ouer great daunger for vs to passe ouer it with so small scutes, and that Candinaes was still north-west from vs. Then wee asked them for some bread, and they gaue vs a loafe, which [dry as it was] wee eate hungerly vp as wee were rowing, but wee would not beleeue them that we were still on the east side of Cardinaes, for we thought verily that wee had past ouer the White Sea. And when we left them, we rowed along by the land, the wind beeing north; and about the north-west sunne we had a good wind againe from the south-east, and therewith we sayled along by the shore, and saw a great Russian lodgie lying on the starreboord from vs, which we thought came out of the White Sea.

The 16 of August in the morning, sayling forward north-west, wee perceiued that we were in a creeke, [1499] and so made towards ye Russian lodgie which we had seene on our starreboord, which at last with great labour and much paine we got vnto; and comming to them about the south-east sunne, with a hard wind, we asked them how farre we were from Sembla de Cool [1500] or Kilduin; but they shooke their heads, and shewed us that we were on the east side of Zembla de Candinaes [1501] but we would not beleeue them. And then we asked them [for] some victuals, wherewith they gaue vs certaine plaice, for the which the maister gaue them a peece of money, and [we] sailed from them againe, to get out of that hole where wee were, [1502] as it reacht into the sea; but they perceiuing that we tooke a wrong course and that the flood was almost past, sent two men vnto vs, in a small boate, with a great loafe of bread, which they gaue vs, and made signes vnto vs to come aboord of their ship againe, [1503] for that they intended to haue further speech with vs and to help [1504] vs, which we seemed not to refuse and desiring not to be vnthankfull, gaue them a peece of money and a peece of linnen cloth, but they stayed still by vs, and they that were in the great lodgie held vp bacon and butter vnto vs, to mooue vs to come aboord of them againe, and so we did. And being with them, they showed vs that we were stil on the east side of the point of Candinaes; then we fetcht our card [1505] and let them see it, by the which they shewed vs that we were still on the east side of the White Sea and of Candinaes; which we vnderstanding, were in some doubt with our selues [1506] because we had so great a voiage to make ouer the White Sea, and were in more feare for our companions that were in the boate, [1507] as also yt hauing sailed 22 [88] miles along by the Russian coast, [1508] we had gotten no further, but were then to saile ouer the mouth of the White Sea with so small prouision; for which cause the master bought of ye Russians three sacks wt meale, two flitches and a halfe of bacon, a pot of Russia butter, and a runlet of honny, for prouision for vs and our boate [1509] when we should meet with it againe. And for yt in the meane time the flood was past, we sailed with the [beginning of the] ebbe out of the aforesaid creeke [1510] where the Russians boate [1511] came to vs, and entred into the sea with a good south-east wind, holding our course north north-west; and there we saw a point that reacht out into the sea, which we thought to be Candinaes, but we sailed still forward, and the land reached north-west. [1512] In the euening, the sunne being north-west, when we saw that we did not much good with rowing, and that the streame [1513] was almost past, we lay still, and sod [1514] a pot full of water and meale, which tasted exceeding well, because we had put some bacon fat and honny into it, so that we thought it to be a feastiuall day [1515] with vs, but still our minds ran vpon our boate, [1516] because we knew not where it was.

The 17 of August, lying at anchor, in the morning at breake of day we saw a Russian lodgie that came sayling out of the White Sea, to whom we rowed, that we might haue some instruction [1517] from him; and when we boorded him, without asking or speaking vnto him, he gaue vs a loafe of bread, and by signes shewed vs as well as he could that he had seene our companions, and that there was seuen men in the boate; but we not knowing well what they sayd, neither yet beleeuing them, they made other signes vnto vs, [1518] and held vp their seuen fingers and pointed to our scute, thereby shewing that there were so many men in the boate, [1519] and that they had sold them bread, flesh, fish, and other victualls. And while we staid in their lodgie, we saw a small compasse therein, which we knew that they had bought [1520] of our chiefe boatson, [1521] which they likewise acknowledged. Then we vnderstanding them well, askt them how long it was since they saw our boate [1522] and whereabouts it was, [and] they made signes vnto vs that it was the day before. And to conclude, they showed vs great friendship, for the which we thanked them; and so, being glad of the good newes wee had heard we tooke our leaues of them, much reioycing that wee heard of our companions welfare, and specially because they had gotten victuals from the Russians, which was the thing that wee most doubted of, in regard that we knew what small prouision they had with them. Which done, we rowed as hard as we could, to try if we might ouertake them, as being still in doubt that they had not prouision inough, wishing that we had had part of ours: and hauing rowed al that day with great labour along by the land, about midnight we found a fall of fresh water, and then we went on land to fetch some [water], and there also we got some leple leaues. [1523] And as we thought to row forward, we were forced to saile, because the flood was past, [1524] and still wee lookt earnestly out for the point of Candinaes, and the fiue crosses, whereof we had beene instructed by the Russians, but we could not see it.

The 18 of August in the morning, the sunne being east, [in order to gain time] wee puled vp our stone (which we vsed in steed of an anchor, [1525]) and rowed along by the land till the sunne was south, then wee saw a point of land reaching into the sea, and on it certaine signes of crosses, [1526] which as we went neerer vnto wee saw perfectly; and when the sunne was west, wee perceiued that the land reached west and south-west, so that thereby we knew it certainly to be the point of Candinaes, lying at the mouth of the White Sea, which we were to crosse, and had long desired to see it. This point is easily to be knowne, hauing fiue crosses standing vpon it, which are perfectly to be decerned, one the east side in the south-east, and one the other side in the south-west. [1527] And when we thought to saile from thence to the west side of the White Sea towards the coast of Norway, we found that one of our runlets of fresh water was almost leakt out; and for that we had about 40 Dutch [160] miles to saile ouer the sea before we should get any fresh water, we sought meanes first to row on land to get some, but because the waues went so high we durst not do it; and so hauing a good north-east wind (which was not for vs too slack [1528]) we set forward in the name of God, and when the sunne was north-west we past the point, [1529] and all that night and the next day sailed with a good wind, and [in] all that time rowed but while three glasses were run out; [1530] and the next night after ensuing hauing still a good wind, in the morning about the east north-east sunne we saw land one the west side of the White Sea, which we found by the rushing of the sea vpon the land before we saw it. And perceiuing it to be ful of clifts, [1531] and not low sandy ground with same hills [1532] as it is on the east side of the White Sea, we assured our selues [1533] that we were on ye west side of the White Sea, vpon the coast of Lapeland, for the which we thanked God that he had helped vs to saile over the White Sea in thirty houres, it being forty Dutch [160] miles at the least, our course being west with a [nice] north-east wind.