Part 27

The 23 of June we sailed still forward west and by south till the sunne was south-east, and got to the Trust Point, [1233] which is distant from the Ice Point 25 [100] miles, and then could go noe further because the ice laie so hard and so close together; and yet it was faire weather. The same day we tooke the hight of the sunne with the astralabium and also with our astronomicall ring, and found his hight to be 37 degrees, and his declination 23 degrees and 30 minutes, which taken from the hight aforesaid, there rested 13 degrees and 30 minutes, which substracted out of 90 degrees, the hight of the Pole was 76 degrees and 30 minutes. [1234] And it was faire sunne-shine weather, and yet it was not so strong as to melt the snow that we might haue water to drink; so that we set all our tin platers and other things [1235] full of snow [in the sun] to melt, and so molt it [by the reflection of the sun, so that we had water to drink]; and [we also] put snow into our mouthes, to melt it downe into our throates; [1236] but all was not enough, so that we were compelled to endure great thirst.

The stretching of the land from the house [1237] where we wintered, along by the north side of Noua Zembla to the Straights of Waigats, where we passed ouer to the coast of Russia, and ouer the entry of the White Sea to Cola, [1238] according to the card [1239] here ensueing.

From the Low Land [1240] to the Streame Baie, [1241] the course east and west 4 [16] miles. From the Streame Baie to the Ice-hauen Point, [1242] the course east and by north 3 [12] miles. From the Ice-hauen Point to the Islands Point, [1243] the course east north-east 5 [20] miles. From the Islands Point to the Flushingers Point, [1244] the course north-east and by east 3 [12] miles. From the Flushingers Point to ye Head Point, [1245] the course north-east 4 [16] miles. From the Head Point to the Point of Desire, [1246] the course south and north 6 [24] miles. From the Point of Desire to the Island[s] of Orange, [1247] north-west 8 [32] miles. From the Islands of Orange to the Ice Point, [1248] the course west and west and by south 5 [20] miles. From the Ice Point to the Point of Thrust [1249] the course [west and] west and by south 25 [100] miles. From the Point of Trust to Nassawes Point, [1250] the course [1251] west and by north 10 [40] miles. From the Nassawe Point to the east end of the Crosse Island, [1252] the course west and by north 8 [32] miles. From the east end of the Crosse Island to Williams Island, [1253] the course west and by south 3 [12] miles. From Williams Island to the Black Point, [1254] the course west south-west 6 [24] miles. From the Black Point, to the east end of the Admirable Island, [1255] the course west south-west 7 [28] miles. From the east to the west point of the Admirable Island, the course west south-west 5 [20] miles. From the west point of the Admirable Island to Cape Planto, [1256] the course south-west and by west 10 [40] miles. From Cape de Planto to Lombs-bay, [1257] the course west south-west 8 [32] miles. From Lombs-bay to the Staues Point, [1258] the course west south-west From the Staues Point to [Cape de Prior or] 10 [40] miles. Langenesse, [1259] the course south-west and by south 14 [56] miles. From [Cape Prior or] Langenes to Cape de Cant, [1260] the course south-west and by south 6 [24] miles. From Cape de Cant to the Point with the black clifts, [1261] the course south and by west 4 [16] miles. From the Point with the black cliftes to the Black Island, [1262] the course south south-east 3 [12] miles. From the Black Island to Constint-sarke, [1263] the course east and west 2 [8] miles. From Constint-sarke, [1264] to the Crosse Point, [1265] the course south south-east 5 [20] miles. From Crosse Point to S. Laurence Bay, [1266] the course south-east [1267] 6 [24] miles. From S. Laurence Bay [1268] to Mel-hauen, [1269] the course [south] south-east 6 [24] miles. From Mel-hauen to the Two Islands, [1270] the course south south-east 16 [64] miles. From the 2 Islands, where we crost ouer to the Russia coast, to the Islands of Matfloo and Delgoye, [1271] the course south-west [1272] 30 [120] myles. From Matfloo and Delgoye to the creeke [1273] where we sailed the compasse [almost] round aboute, and came to the same place againe 22 [88] miles. From that creeke to Colgoy, [1274] the course west north-west 18 [72] miles. From Colgoy to the east point of Camdenas, [1275] the course west north-west 20 [80] miles. From the east point of Camdenas to the west side of the White Sea, the course west north-west 40 [160] miles. From the west point of the White Sea to the 7 Islands, [1276] the course north-west 14 [56] miles. From the 7 Islands, to the west end of Kilduin, [1277] the course north-west 20 [80] miles. From the west end of Kelduin to the place where John Cornelis came vnto vs, [1278] the course north-west and by west 7 [28] miles. From thence to Cola, [1279] the course most [1280] southerly 18 [72] miles.

So that we sailed in two open scutes, some times in the ice, then ouer the ice, and through the sea 381 [1524] miles. [1281]

The 24 of June, the sunne being easterly, we rowed here and there [round about] in the ice, to see where we might best goe out, but we saw no opening; but when the sunne was south we got through into the sea, for the which we thanked God most heartilie that he had sent vs an vnexpected opening; and then we sailed with an east wind and went lustily forward, so that we made our account to get aboue [1282] the Point of Nassawes; [1283] [but we were again prevented by the ice which beset us, so that we were obliged to stop on the east side of the Point of Nassau] close by the land, and we could easily see the Point of Nassawes, and made our account to be about 3 [12] miles from it, the wind being south and south south-west. Then sixe of our men went on land and there found some wood, whereof they brought as much as they could into the scutes, but found neither birds nor egges; with the which wood they sod [1284] a pot of water pap (which we called matsammore [1285]), that we might eate some warme thing, the wind blowing stil southerly, [and the longer it blew the stronger it grew.]

The 25th of June it blew a great south wind, and the ice whereunto we made our selues fast was not very strong, whereby we were in greate feare that we should breake off from it and driue into the sea; for [in the evening], when the sun was in the west, a peece of that ice brake of, whereby we were forced to dislodge and make our selues fast to another peece of ice.

The 26 of June it still blew hard out of the south, and broke the ice whereunto we were fast in peeces, and we thereby draue into the sea, and could get no more to the fast ice, whereby we were in a thousand dangers to be all cast away; and driuing in yt sort in the sea, we rowed as much as we could, but we could not get neere vnto the land, therefore we hoysed vp our fock; [1286] and so made vp with our saile; [1287] but our fock-mast [1288] brake twice in peeces, and then it was worse for vs than before, [1289] and notwithstanding that there blew a great gale of wind, yet we were forced to hoyse vp our great sayle, [1290] but the wind blew so hard into it that if we had not presently taken it in againe we had sunke in the sea, [1291] or else our boate would haue bin filled with water [so that we must have sunk]; for the water began to leap ouer borde, [1292] and we were a good way in the sea, at which time the waues went so hollow [and so short] that it was most fearful, and we thereby saw nothing but death before our eyes, and euery twinckling of an eye lookt when we should sincke. But God, that had deliuered us out of so many dangers of death, holpe vs once againe, and contrary to our expectations sent vs a north-west wind, and so with great danger we got to ye fast ice againe. When we were deliuered out of that danger, and knew not where our other scute [1293] was, we sailed one mile [4 miles] along by the fast ice, but found it not, whereby we were wholy out of heart and in great feare yt they were drowned; at which time it was mistie weather. And so sailing along, and hearing no newes of our other scute, [1294] we shot of a musket, wh they hearing shot of another, but yet we could not see each other; meane time approaching nearer to each other, and the weather waxing somewhat cleerer, as we and they shot once againe, we saw the smoke of their peeces, and at last we met together againe, and saw them ly fast between driuing and fast ice. And when we got near unto them, we went ouer the ice and holp them to vnlade the goods out of their scute, and drew it ouer the ice, and with much paine and trouble brought it into the open water againe; and while they were fast in the ice, we [1295] found some wood vpon the land by the sea side, and when we lay by each other we sod [1296] some bread and water together and eate it vp warme, which did vs much good.

The 27 [1297] of June we set saile with an indifferent gale out of the east, and got a mile [4 miles] aboue the Cape de Nassaw one the west side thereof, and then we had the wind against vs, and we were forced to take in our sailes and began to rowe. And as we went along [the firm ice] close by the land, we saw so many sea-horses lying vpon the ice [more than we had ever seen before] that it was admirable, [1298] and a great number of birds, at the which we discharged 2 muskets and killed twelue of them, which we fetcht into our scutes. And rowing in that sort, we had a great mist, and then we entred into [the] driuing ice, so that we were compelled to make our scutes fast vnto the fast ice, and to stay there till the weather brake vp, [1299] the wind being west north-west and right against vs.

The 28th of June, when the sunne was in the east, we laid all our goods vpon the ice, and then drew the scutes vpon the ice also, because we were so hardly prest on all sides with the ice, and the wind came out of the sea vpon the land, and therefore we were in feare to be wholely inclosed with the ice, and should not be able to get out thereof againe. And being vpon the ice, we laid sailes [1300] ouer our scutes, and laie downe to rest, appointing one of our men to keepe watch; and when the sunne was north there came three beares towards our scutes, wherewith he that kept the watch cried [out lustily], three beares, three beares; at which noise we leapt out of our boates with our muskets, that were laden with haile-shot [1301] to shoote at birds, and had no time to discharge [1302] them, and therefore shot at them therewith; and although that kinde of shot could not hurt them much yet they ranne away, and in the meane time they gaue vs leisure to lade our muskets with bullets, and by that meanes we shot one of the three dead, which the other two perceauing ranne away, but within two houres after they came againe, but when they were almost at vs and heard us make a noise, they ranne away; at which time the wind was west and west and by north, which made the ice driue with great force into the east.

The 29th of June, the sunne being south south-west, the two beares came againe to the place where the dead beare laie, where one of them tooke the dead beare in his mouth, and went a great way with it ouer the rugged ice, and then began to eate it; which we perceauing, shot a musket at her, but she hearing the noise thereof, ran away, and let the dead beare lie. Then four of vs went thither, and saw that in so short a time she had eaten almost the halfe of her; [and] we tooke the dead beare and laid it vpon a high heap of ice, [so] that we might see it out of our scute, that if the beare came againe we might shoot at her. At which time we tried [1303] the great strenght of the beare, that carried the dead bear as lightely in her mouth as if it had beene nothing, whereas we foure had enough to doe to cary away the halfe dead beare betweene vs. Then the wind still held west, which draue the ice into the east.

The 30 of June in the morning, when the sunne was east and by north, the ice draue hard eastward by meanes of the west wind, and then there came two beares vpon a peece of ice that draue in the sea, and thought to set vpon vs, and made show as if they would leape into the water and come to vs, but did nothing, whereby we were of opinion that they were the same beares that had beene there before; and about the south-south-east sunne there came an other beare vpon the fast ice, and made [straight] towards vs; but being neare vs, and hearing vs make a noise, she went away againe. Then the wind was west-south-west, and the ice began somewhat to falle from the land; but because it was mistie weather and a hard wind, we durst not put to sea, but staid for a better opportunitie.

The 1 of Julie it was indifferent faire weather, with a west-north-west wind; and in the morning, the sunne being east, there came a beare from the driuing yce and swam over the water to the fast yce whereon we lay; but when she heard vs she came no nearer, but ran away. And when the sunne was south-east, the ice came so fast in towards vs, that all the ice whereon we lay with our scutes and our goods brake and ran one peece vpon another, whereby we were in no small feare, [1304] for at that time most of our goods fell into the water. But we with great diligence drew our scutes [1305] further vpon the ice towards the land, where we thought to be better defended from the driuing of the ice, and as we went to fetch our goods we fell into the greatest trouble that euer we had before, for yt we endured so great danger in the sauing thereof, that as we laid hold vpon one peece thereof the rest sunke downe with the ice, and many times the ice brake vnder our owne feet; whereby we were wholy discomforted and in a maner cleane out of all hope, expecting no issue thereof, in such sort that our trouble at that time surmounted all our former cares and impeachments. And when we thought to draw vp our boates [1306] vpon the ice, the ice brake vnder vs, and we were caried away with the scute and al [1307] by the driuing ice; and when we thought to saue the goods the ice brake vnder our feet, and with that the scute brak in many places, especially yt which we had mended; [1308] as ye mast, ye mast planke, [1309] and almost all the scute, [1310] wherein one of our men that was sick and a chest of mony lay, which we with great danger of our liues got out from it; for as we were doing it, the ice that was vnder our feet draue from vs and slid vpon other ice, [1311] whereby we were in danger to burst both our armes and our legs. At which time, thinking yt we had been cleane quit of our scute, [1312] we beheld each other in pittiful maner, knowing not what we should doe, our liues depending thereon; but God made so good prouision for vs, yt ye peeces of ice draue from each other, wherewith we ran in great haste vnto the scute [1313] and drew it to vs again in such case as it was, and layd it vpon the fast ice by the boate, [1314] where it was in more security, which put us unto an exceeding and great and dangerous labor from the time that the sunne was south-east vntill it was west south-west, and in al that time we rested not, which made vs extreame weary and wholy out of comfort, for that it troubled vs sore, and it was much more fearfull vnto vs then at that time when William Barents dyed; for there we were almost drowned, and that day we lost (which was sounke in the sea) two barrels of bread, a chest wt linnen cloth, a driefat [1315] with the sailors [best] clothes, our astron[omi]cale ring, a pack of scarlet cloth, a runlet of oyle, and some cheeses, and a runlet of wine, which bongd with the ice, [1316] so that there was not anything thereof saued.

The 2 of Julie, the sunne east, there came another beare vnto vs, but we making a noyse she ran away; and when the sun was west south-west it began to be faire weather. Then we began to mend our scute [1317] with the planks wherewith we had made the buyckmish; [1318] and while 6 of vs were busied about mending of our scute, the other sixe went further into the land, to seeke for some wood, and to fetch some stones to lay vpon the ice, that we might make a fire thereon, therewith to melt our pitch, which we should need about the scute, as also to see if they could fetch any wood for a mast [for the boat], which they found with certain stones, [1319] and brought them where the scutes lay. And when they came to vs againe they shewed vs that they had found certain wood which had bin clouen, [1320] and brought some wedges with them wherewith the said wood had been clouen, whereby it appeared that men had bin there. Then we made all the haste we could to make a fire, and to melt our pitch, and to do al other things that were necessary to be done for the repairing of our scute, so that we got it ready againe by that the sunne was north-east; at which time also we rosted [1321] our birds [which we had shot], and made a good meale with them.

The 3 of July in the morning, the sunne being east, two of our men went to the water, and there they found two of our oares, our helme sticke, [1322] the pack of scarlet cloth, the chest with linnen cloth, and a hat that fell out of the driefat, [1323] whereby we gest [1324] that it was broken in peeces; which they perceiuing, tooke as much with them as they could carry, and came vnto us, showing vs that they had left more goods behind them, whereupon the maister with 5 more of vs went thither, and drew al the goods vpon the firme ice, yt when we went away we might take it with vs; but they could not carry the chest nor the pack of cloth (that were ful of water) because of their waight, but were forced to let them stand till we went away, that the water might drop out [1325] of them [and we might afterwards fetch them], and so they did. [1326] The sunne being south-west there came another great beare vnto vs, which the man that kept watch saw not, and had beene deuoured by her if one of our other men that lay downe in the ship [1327] had not espied her, and called to him that kept watch to looke to himselfe, who therewith ran away. Meane time the beare was shot into the body, but she escaped; and that time the wind was east north-east.

The 4 of July it was so faire cleare weather, that from the time we were first in Noua Zembla we had not the like. Then wee washt the veluets, that had been wet with the salt water, in fresh water drawne out of snow, and then dryed them and packt them vp againe; at which time the wind was west and west south-west.

The 5 of July it was faire weather, the wind west south-west. The same day dyed John Franson [1328] of Harlem (Claes Adrians [1329] nephew, that dyed the same day when William Barents dyed [1330]), the sunne being then about north north-west; at which time the ice came mightily driuing in vpon vs, and then sixe of our men went into the land, and there fetcht some fire-wood to dresse our meate.

The 6 of July it was misty weather, but about euening it began to cleere vp, and the wind was south-east, which put vs in some comfort, and yet we lay fast vpon the ice.

The 7 of July it was faire weather with some raine, the wind west south-west, and at euening west and by north. Then wee went to the open water, and there killed [1331] thirteene birds, which wee tooke vppon a peece of driuing ice, [1332] and layd them vpon the fast ice.

The 8 of July it was close [1333] misty weather; then we drest the foules [1334] which we had killed, which gaue us a princely mealetide. [1335] In the euening there blew a fresh gale of wind, out of the north-east, which put vs in great comfort to get from thence.

The 9 of July, in the morning, the ice began to driue, whereby we got open water on the land side, and then also the fast ice whereon we lay began to driue; whereupon the master and ye men went to fetch the pack and the chest that stood vpon the ice, to put them into the scute, and then drew the scutes to the water at least 340 paces, which was hard for vs to do, in regard that the labour was great and we very weake. And when the sun was south south-east we set saile with an east wind; but when the sunne was west we were forced to make towards the fast ice againe, because thereabouts it was not yet gon; [1336] ye wind being south and came right from the land, whereby we were in good hope that it would driue awaye, and that we should proceede in our voyage.

The 10 of July, from the time that the sunne was east north-east till it was east, we tooke great paines and labour to get through the ice; and at last we got through, and rowed forth [1337] vntill wee happened to fall betweene two great flakes [1338] of ice, that closed one with the other, so that we could not get through, but were forced to draw the scutes vpon them, and to vnlade the goods, and then to draw them ouer to the open water on the other side, and then we must go fetch the goods also to the same place, being at least 110 paces long, which was very hard for vs; but there was no remedy, for it was but a folly for vs to thinke of any wearines. And when we were in the open water againe, we rowed forward as well as we could, but we had not rowed long before we fell betweene two great flakes of ice, that came driuing one against the other, but by Gods help and our speedy rowing we got from betweene them before they closed vp, and being through, we had a hard west wind right in our teeth, so that of force we were constrained to make towards the fast ice that lay by the shore, and at last with much trouble we got vnto it. And being there, we thought to row along by the fast ice vnto an island that we saw before vs; but by reason of the hard contrary wind we could not goe farre, so that we were compelled to draw the scutes and the goods vpon the ice, to see what weather [1339] God would send vs; but our courages were cooled to see ourselues so often inclosed in ye ice, being in great feare yt by meanes of the long and continuall paines (which we were forced to take) we should loose all our strength, and by that meanes should not long be able to continue or hold out.