BOOK IV.

FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND.

CHAP. I.

THE RUN FROM NEW ZEALAND TO TERRA DEL FUEGO, WITH THE RANGE FROM CAPE DESEADA TO CHRISTMAS SOUND, AND DESCRIPTION OF THAT PART OF THE COAST.

At daybreak on the 10th, with a fine breeze at W. N. W., we weighed and stood out of the Sound; and, after getting round the Two Brothers, steered for Cape Campbell, which is at the S. W. entrance of the Strait, all sails set, with a fine breeze at north. At four in the afternoon, we passed the Cape, at the distance of four or five leagues, and then steered S. S. E. 1/2 E. with the wind at N. W. a gentle gale, and cloudy weather.

Next morning, the wind veered round by the west to south, and forced us more to the east than I intended. At seven o’clock in the evening, the snowy mountains bore W. by S., and Cape Palliser N. 1/2 W. distant sixteen or seventeen leagues; from which Cape I for the third time took my departure. After a few hours’ calm, a breeze springing up at north, we steered S. by E. all sails set, with a view of getting into the latitude of 54° or 55°; my intention being to cross this vast ocean nearly in these parallels, and so as to pass over those parts which were left unexplored the preceding summer.

In the morning of the 12th, the wind increased to a fine gale: at noon we observed in latitude 43° 13ʹ 30ʺ S., longitude 176° 41ʹ E., an extraordinary fish of the whale kind was seen, which some called a sea-monster. I did not see it myself. In the afternoon, our old companions the pintado peterels began to appear.

On the 13th, in the morning, the wind veered to W. S. W. At seven, seeing the appearance of land to the S. W. we hauled up towards it, and soon found it to be a fog-bank. Afterwards we steered S. E. by S. and soon after saw a seal. At noon, latitude, by account, 44° 25ʹ, longitude 177° 31ʹ E. Foggy weather, which continued all the afternoon. At six in the evening, the wind veered to N. E. by N. and increased to a fresh gale, attended with thick hazy weather; course steered E. E. 1/4 S.

On the 14th, A. M., saw another seal. At noon, latitude 45° 54ʹ, longitude 179° 29ʹ E.

On the 15th, A. M., the wind veered to the westward; the fog cleared away, but the weather continued cloudy. At noon, latitude 47° 30ʹ, longitude 178° 19ʹ W.; for, having passed the meridian of 180° E., I now reckon my longitude west of the first meridian, viz. Greenwich. In the evening heard penguins, and the next morning saw some sea or rock weed. At noon a fresh gale from the west and fine weather. Latitude observed 49° 33ʹ, longitude 175° 31ʹ W.

Next morning fresh gales and hazy weather; saw a seal and several pieces of weed. At noon, latitude 51° 12ʹ, longitude 173° 17ʹ W. The wind veered to the north and N. E. by N., blew a strong gale by squalls, which split an old topgallant sail, and obliged us to double-reef the topsails; but in the evening the wind moderated, and veered to W. N. W. when we loosed a reef out of each topsail, and found the variation of the compass to be 9° 52ʹ E., being then in the latitude 51° 47ʹ, longitude 172° 21ʹ W.; and the next morning, the 18th, in the latitude of 52° 25ʹ, longitude 170° 45ʹ W., it was 10° 26ʹ E. Towards noon, had moderate but cloudy weather, and a great swell from the west: some penguins and pieces of sea-weed seen.

On the 19th, steered E. S. E. with a very fresh gale at N., hazy, dirty weather. At noon, latitude 53° 43ʹ, longitude 166° 15ʹ W.

On the 20th, steered E. by S. with a moderate breeze at N. attended with thick hazy weather. At noon, latitude 54° 8ʹ, longitude 162° 18ʹ W.

On the 21st, winds mostly from the N. E. a fresh gale attended with thick, hazy, dirty weather. Course S. E. by S., latitude, at noon, 55° 31ʹ, longitude 160° 29ʹ W.; abundance of blue peterels and some penguins seen.

Fresh gales at N. W. by N. and N. by W., and hazy till towards noon of the 22d, when the weather cleared up, and we observed in latitude 55° 48ʹ S., longitude 156° 56ʹ W. In the afternoon had a few hours’ calm; after that, the wind came at S. S. E. and S. E. by S. a light breeze, with which we steered east northerly. In the night the aurora australis was visible, but very faint, and no ways remarkable.

On the 23d, in the latitude of 55° 46ʹ S., longitude 156° 13ʹ W., the variation was 9° 42ʹ E. We had a calm from ten in the morning till six in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at west; at first it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards freshened. Our course was now E. 1/2 N.

On the 24th, a fresh breeze at N. W. by W. and N. by W. At noon, in latitude 55° 38ʹ S., longitude 153° 37ʹ W., foggy in the night, but next day had a fine gale at N. W. attended with clear pleasant weather; course steered E. by N. In the evening, being in the latitude of 55° 8ʹ S., longitude 148° 10ʹ W. the variation, by the mean of two compasses, was 6° 35ʹ 1/2 E.

Having a steady fresh gale at N. N. W. on the 26th and 27th, we steered east, and at noon, on the latter, were in latitude 55° 6ʹ S., longitude 138° 56ʹ W.

I now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean, and came to a resolution to steer directly for the west entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, with a view of coasting the out or south side of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait le Maire. As the world has but a very imperfect knowledge of this shore, I thought the coasting of it would be of more advantage, both to navigation and to geography, than any thing I could expect to find in a higher latitude. In the afternoon of this day, the wind blew in squalls, and carried away the main topgallant mast.

A very strong gale northerly, with hazy rainy weather, on the 28th, obliged us to double-reef the fore and main topsail, to hand the mizen topsail, and get down the fore top-gallant yard. In the morning, the bolt rope of the main topsail broke, and occasioned the sail to be spilt. I have observed that the ropes to all our sails, the square sails especially, are not of a size and strength sufficient to wear out the canvass. At noon, latitude 55° 20ʹ S., longitude 134° 16ʹ W., a great swell from N. W. albatrosses and blue peterels seen.

Next day towards noon, the wind abating, we loosed all the reefs out of the topsails, rigged another top-gallant mast, and got the yards across. P. M. little wind, and hazy weather; at midnight calm, that continued till noon the next day, when a breeze sprung up at E. with which we stretched to the northward. At this time we were in the latitude 55° 32ʹ S., longitude 128° 45ʹ W., some albatrosses and peterels seen. At eight P. M. the wind veering to N. E. we tacked and stood to E. S. E.

On the 1st of December, thick hazy weather, with drizzling rain, and a moderate breeze of wind, which at three o’clock P. M. fell to a calm; at this time in latitude 55° 41ʹ S., longitude 127° 5ʹ W. After four hours’ calm, the fog cleared away, and we got a wind at S. E. with which we stood N. E.

Next day, a fresh breeze at S. E. and hazy foggy weather, except a few hours in the morning, when we found the variation to be 1° 28ʹ E., latitude 55° 17ʹ, longitude 125° 41ʹ W. The variation after this was supposed to increase; for on the 4th, in the morning, being in latitude 53° 21ʹ, longitude 121° 31ʹ W., it was 3° 16ʹ E.; in the evening, in latitude 53° 13ʹ, longitude 119° 46ʹ W. it was 3° 28ʹ E.; and on the 5th, at six o’clock in the evening, in latitude 53° 8ʹ, longitude 115° 58ʹ W., it was 4° 1ʹ E.

For more than twenty-four hours having had a fine gale at S., this enabled us to steer E., with very little deviation to the N.; and the wind now altering to S. W. and blowing a steady fresh breeze, we continued to steer E., inclining a little to S.

On the 6th, had some snow showers. In the evening, being in latitude 53° 13ʹ, longitude 111° 12ʹ, the variation was 4° 58ʹ E.; and the next morning, being in latitude 58° 16ʹ, longitude 109° 33ʹ, it was 5° 1ʹ E.

The wind was now at W., a fine pleasant gale, sometimes with showers of rain. Nothing remarkable happened, till the 9th, at noon, when being in the latitude of 53° 37ʹ, longitude 103° 44ʹ W., the wind veered to N. E. and afterwards came insensibly round to the S., by the E. and S. E. attended with cloudy hazy weather, and some showers of rain.

On the 10th, a little before noon, latitude 54°, longitude 102° 7ʹ W., passed a small bed of sea-weed. In the afternoon the wind veered to S. W., blew a fresh gale, attended with dark cloudy weather. We steered E. half a point N.; and the next day, at six in the evening, being in latitude 53° 35ʹ, longitude 95° 52ʹ W., the variation was 9° 58ʹ E. Many and various sorts of albatrosses about the ship.

On the 12th, the wind veered to the W. N. W. and in the evening to N.; and, at last, left us to a calm. That continued till midnight, when we got a breeze at S.; which, soon after, veering to, and fixing at, W. we steered E.; and on the 14th, in the morning, found the variation to be 13° 25ʹ E., latitude 53° 25ʹ, longitude 87° 53ʹ W.; and in the afternoon, being in the same latitude, and the longitude of 86° 2ʹ W. it was 15° 3ʹ E., and increased in such a manner, that on the 15th, in the latitude of 53° 30ʹ, longitude 82° 23ʹ W., it was 17° E.; and the next evening, in the latitude of 53° 25ʹ, longitude 78° 40ʹ, it was 17° 38ʹ E. About this time, we saw a penguin and a piece of weed; and the next morning, a seal and some diving peterels. For the three last days, the wind had been at W., a steady fresh gale, attended, now and then, with showers of rain or hail.

At six in the morning of the 17th, being nearly in the same latitude as above, and in the longitude of 77° 10ʹ W., the variation was 18° 33ʹ E.; and in the afternoon it was 21° 38ʹ, being at that time in latitude 53° 16ʹ S., longitude 75° 9ʹ W. In the morning, as well as in the afternoon, I took some observations to determine the longitude by the watch; and the results, reduced to noon, gave 76° 18ʹ 30ʺ W. At the same time, the longitude, by my reckoning, was 76° 17ʹ W. But I have reason to think, that we were about half a degree more to the west than either the one or the other; our latitude, at the same time, was 53° 21ʹ S.

We steered E. by N. and E. 1/2 N. all this day, under all the sail we could carry, with a fine fresh gale at N. W. by W. in expectation of seeing the land before night; but not making it till ten o’clock, we took in the studding-sails, top-gallant sails, and a reef in each topsail, and steered E. N. E. in order to make sure of falling in with Cape Deseada.

Two hours after, we made the land, extending from N. E. by N. to E. by S. about six leagues distant. On this discovery, we wore and brought to, with the ship’s head to the S., and having sounded, found seventy-five fathoms water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now before us could be no other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west entrance to the Straits of Magalhaens.

As this was the first run that had been made directly across this ocean, in a high southern latitude[14], I have been a little particular in noting every circumstance that appeared in the least material; and after all, I must observe that I never made a passage any where of such length, or even much shorter, where so few interesting circumstances occurred. For, if I except the variation of the compass, I know of nothing else worth notice. The weather had been neither unusually stormy nor cold. Before we arrived in the latitude of 50°, the mercury in the thermometer fell gradually from sixty to fifty; and after we arrived in the latitude of 55°, it was generally between forty-seven and forty-five; once or twice it fell to forty-three. These observations were made at noon.

I have now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean; and flatter myself that no one will think that I have left it unexplored; or that more could have been done, in one voyage, towards obtaining that end, than has been done in this.

Soon after we left New Zealand, Mr. Wales contrived, and fixed up an instrument, which very accurately measured the angle the ship rolled, when sailing large and in a great sea; and that in which she lay down, when sailing upon a wind. The greatest angle he observed her to roll was 38°. This was on the 6th of this month, when the sea was not unusually high; so that it cannot be reckoned the greatest roll she had made. The most he observed her to heel or lie down, when sailing upon a wind, was 18°; and this was under double-reefed topsails and courses.

On the 18th, at three in the morning, we sounded again, and found one hundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. We now made sail with a fresh gale at N. W. and steered S. E. by E. along the coast. It extended from Cape Deseada, which bore N. 7° E., to E. S. E., a pretty high ragged isle, which lies near a league from the main, and S. 18° E. six leagues from Cape Deseada, bore N. 49° E. distant four leagues; and it obtained the name of Landfall. At four o’clock, we were north and south of the high land of Cape Deseada, distant about nine leagues; so that we saw none of the low rocks said to lie off it. The latitude of this Cape is about 53° S. longitude 74° 40ʹ W.

Continuing to range the coast, at about two leagues distance, at eleven o’clock we passed a projecting point, which I called Cape Gloucester. It shows a round surface of considerable height, and has much the appearance of being an island. It lies S. S. E., 1/2 E., distant seventeen leagues from the Isle of Landfall. The coast between them forms two bays, strewed with rocky islets, rocks, and breakers. The coast appeared very broken with many inlets; or rather it seemed to be composed of a number of islands. The land is very mountainous, rocky, and barren, spotted, here and there, with tufts of wood, and patches of snow. At noon Cape Gloucester bore N. distant eight miles, and the most advanced point of land to the S. E. which we judged to be Cape Noir, bore S. E. by S. distant seven or eight leagues. Latitude observed 54° 13ʹ S. Longitude made from Cape Deseada, 54ʹ E. From Cape Gloucester, off which lies a small rocky island, the direction of the coast is nearly S. E.; but to Cape Noir, for which we steered, the course is S. S. E., distant about ten leagues.

At three o’clock, we passed Cape Noir, which is a steep rock of considerable height, and the S. W. point of a large island that seemed to lie detached a league or a league and a half from the main land. The land of the Cape, when at a distance from it, appeared to be an island disjoined from the other; but, on a nearer approach, we found it connected by a low neck of land. At the point of the Cape are two rocks; the one peaked like a sugar-loaf, the other not so high, and showing a rounder surface; and S. by E. two leagues from the Cape are two other rocky islets. This Cape is situated in the latitude of 54° 30ʹ S. longitude 73° 33ʹ W.

After passing the two islets, we steered E. S. E. crossing the great bay of St. Barbara. We but just saw the land in the bottom of it; which could not be less than seven or eight leagues from us. There was a space, lying in the direction of E. N. E. from Cape Noir, where no land was to be seen: this may be the Channel of St. Barbara which opens into the Straits of Magalhaens, as mentioned by Frezier. We found the Cape to agree very well with his description; which shows that he laid down the channel from good memoirs. At ten o’clock, drawing near the S. E. point of the bay, which lies nearly in the direction of S. 60° E. from Cape Noir, eighteen leagues distant, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on.

At two o’clock in the morning of the 19th, having made sail, we steered S. E. by E. along the coast, and soon passed the S. E. point of the Bay of St. Barbara, which I called Cape Desolation; because near it commenced the most desolate and barren country I ever saw. It is situated in the latitude of 54° 55ʹ S., longitude 72° 12ʹ W. About four leagues to the east of this Cape is a deep inlet, at the entrance of which lies a pretty large island, and some others of less note. Nearly in this situation some charts place a channel leading into the Straits of Magalhaens, under the name of Straits of Jelouzel. At ten o’clock, being about a league and a half from the land, we sounded, and found sixty fathoms water, a bottom of small stones and shells.

The wind, which had been fresh at N. by W. began to abate, and at noon it fell calm, when we observed in latitude 55° 20ʹ S., longitude made from Cape Deseada 3° 24ʹ E. In this situation we were about three leagues from the nearest shore, which was that of an island. This I named Gilbert Isle, after my master. It is nearly of the same height with the rest of the coast, and shows a surface composed of several peaked rocks unequally high. A little to the S. E. of it are some smaller islands, and, without them, breakers.

I have before observed that this is the most desolate coast I ever saw. It seems entirely composed of rocky mountains without the least appearance of vegetation. These mountains terminate in horrible precipices, whose craggy summits spire up to a vast height; so that hardly any thing in nature can appear with a more barren and savage aspect than the whole of this country. The inland mountains were covered with snow, but those on the sea-coast were not. We judged the former to belong to the main of Terra del Fuego, and the latter to be islands, so ranged as apparently to form a coast.

After three hours’ calm, we got a breeze at S. E. by E. and having made a short trip to south, stood in for the land; the most advanced point of which, that we had in sight, bore E., distant ten leagues. This is a lofty promontory, lying E. S. E. nineteen leagues from Gilbert Isle, and situated in latitude 55° 26ʹ S. longitude 70° 25ʹ W. Viewed from the situation we now were in, it terminated in two high towers; and within them a hill shaped like a sugar-loaf. This wild rock therefore obtained the name of York Minster. Two leagues to the westward of this head appeared a large inlet, the west point of which we fetched in with, by nine o’clock, when we tacked in forty-one fathoms water, half a league from the shore: to the westward of this inlet was another, with several islands lying in the entrance.

During the night between the 19th and 20th, we had little wind easterly, which in the morning veered to N. E. and N. N. E., but it was too faint to be of use; and at ten, we had a calm, when we observed the ship to drive from off the shore out to sea. We had made the same observation the day before. This must have been occasioned by a current; and the melting of the snow increasing, the inland waters will cause a stream to run out of most of these inlets. At noon, we observed in latitude 55° 39ʹ 30ʺ S. York Minster, then bearing N. 15° E., distant five leagues; and Round-hill, just peeping above the horizon, which we judged to belong to the isles of Saint Ildefonso, E. 25° S., ten or eleven leagues distant. At ten o’clock, a breeze springing up at E. by S., I took this opportunity to stand in for the land, being desirous of going into one of the many ports which seemed open to receive us, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit our stock of wood and water.

In standing in for an opening, which appeared on the east side of York Minster, we had forty, thirty-seven, fifty, and sixty fathoms water, a bottom of small stones and shells. When we had the last soundings we were nearly in the middle between the two points that form the entrance to the inlet, which we observed to branch into two arms, both of them lying in nearly N., and disjoined by a high rocky point. We stood for the eastern branch as being clear of islets; and after passing a black rocky one, lying without the point just mentioned, we sounded and found no bottom with a line of an hundred and seventy fathoms. This was altogether unexpected, and a circumstance that would not have been regarded, if the breeze had continued; but, at this time, it fell calm, so that it was not possible to extricate ourselves from this disagreeable situation. Two boats were hoisted out, and sent a-head to tow; but they would have availed little, had not a breeze sprung up about eight o’clock, at S. W. which put it in my power either to stand out to sea, or up the inlet. Prudence seemed to point out the former; but the desire of finding a good port, and of learning something of the country, getting the better of every other consideration, I resolved to stand in; and as night was approaching, our safety depended on getting to an anchor. With this view we continued to sound, but always had an unfathomable depth.

Hauling up under the east side of the land which divided the two arms, and seeing a small cove a-head, I sent a boat to sound; and we kept as near the shore as the flurries from the land would permit, in order to be able to get into this place, if there should be anchorage. The boat soon returned, and informed us that there was thirty and twenty-five fathoms water, a full cable’s length from the shore. Here we anchored in thirty fathoms, the bottom sand and broken shells; and carried out a kedge and hawser, to steady the ship for the night.

CHAP. II.

TRANSACTIONS IN CHRISTMAS SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS.

The morning of the 21st was calm and pleasant. After breakfast, I set out with two boats to look for a more secure station. We no sooner got round, or above the point, under which the ship lay, than we found a cove in which was anchorage in thirty, twenty, and fifteen fathoms, the bottom stones and sand. At the head of the cove was a stony beach, a valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water; so that there was every thing we could expect to find in such a place, or rather more; for we shot three geese out of four that we saw, and caught some young ones, which we afterwards let go.

After discovering and sounding this cove, I sent lieutenant Clerke, who commanded the other boat, on board, with orders to remove the ship into this place, while I proceeded farther up the inlet. I presently saw that the land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned before, was an island, at the north end of which the two channels united. After this I hastened on board, and found every thing in readiness to weigh; which was accordingly done, and all the boats sent a-head to tow the ship round the point. But, at that moment, a light breeze came in from the sea too scant to fill our sails; so that we were obliged to drop the anchor again, for fear of falling upon the point, and to carry out a kedge to windward. That being done, we hove up the anchor, warped up to, and weighed the kedge, and proceeding round the point under our stay-sails, there anchored with the best bower, in twenty fathoms; and moored with the other bower, which lay to the north, in thirteen fathoms. In this position we were shut in from the sea by the point above mentioned, which was in one with the extremity of the inlet to the east. Some islets, off the next point above us, covered us from the N. W., from which quarter the wind had the greatest fetch; and our distance from the shore was about one-third of a mile.

Thus situated, we went to work, to clear a place to fill water, to cut wood, and to set up a tent for the reception of a guard, which was thought necessary; as we had already discovered, that, barren as this country is, it was not without people, though we had not yet seen any. Mr. Wales also got his observatory and instruments on shore; but it was with the greatest difficulty he could find a place of sufficient stability, and clear of the mountains, which every where surrounded us, to set them up in; and at last he was obliged to content himself with the top of a rock, not more than nine feet over.

Next day I sent lieutenants Clerke and Pickersgill, accompanied by some of the other officers, to examine and draw a sketch of the channel on the other side of the island; and I went myself in another boat, accompanied by the botanists, to survey the northern parts of the sound. In my way, I landed on the point of a low isle covered with herbage, part of which had been lately burnt; we likewise saw a hut; signs sufficient that people were in the neighbourhood. After I had taken the necessary bearings, we proceeded round the east end of Burnt Island, and over to what we judged to be the main of Terra del Fuego, where we found a very fine harbour encompassed by steep rocks of vast height, down which ran many limpid streams of water; and at the foot of the rocks, some tufts of trees, fit for little else but fuel.

This harbour, which I shall distinguish by the name of the Devil’s Bason, is divided, as it were, into two, an inner and an outer one; and the communication between them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. In the outer bason, I found thirteen and seventeen fathoms water, and in the inner, seventeen and twenty-three. This last is as secure a place as can be, but nothing can be more gloomy. The vast height of the savage rocks which encompass it, deprived great part of it, even on this day, of the meridian sun. The outer harbour is not quite free from this inconvenience, but far more so than the other; it is also rather more commodious, and equally safe. It lies in the direction of north, a mile and an half distant from the east end of Burnt Island. I likewise found a good anchoring-place a little to the west of this harbour, before a stream of water that comes out of a lake or large reservoir, which is continually supplied by a cascade falling into it.

Leaving this place, we proceeded along the shore to the westward, and found other harbours, which I had not time to look into. In all of them is fresh water, and wood for fuel; but except these little tufts of bushes, the whole country is a barren rock, doomed by nature to everlasting sterility. The low islands, and even some of the higher, which lie scattered up and down the sound, are indeed mostly covered with shrubs and herbage, the soil a black rotten turf, evidently composed, by length of time, of decayed vegetables.

I had an opportunity to verify what we had observed at sea; that the sea-coast is composed of a number of large and small islands, and that the numerous inlets are formed by the junction of several channels; at least so it is here. On one of these low islands, we found several huts, which had lately been inhabited; and near them was a good deal of celery, with which we loaded our boat, and returned on board at seven o’clock in the evening. In this expedition we met with little game; one duck, three or four shags, and about that number of rails or sea-pies, being all we got. The other boat returned on board some hours before; having found two harbours on the west side of the other channel; the one large, and the other small; but both of them safe and commodious; though, by the sketch Mr. Pickersgill had taken of them, the access to both appeared rather intricate.

I was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of our marines. He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o’clock the preceding night. It was supposed that he had fallen over-board out of the head, where he had been last seen, and was drowned.

Having fine pleasant weather on the 23d, I sent lieutenant Pickersgill in the cutter, to explore the east side of the sound, and went myself in the pinnace to the west side, with an intent to go round the island, under which we were at anchor, (and which I shall distinguish by the name of Shag island), in order to view the passage leading to the harbours Mr. Pickersgill had discovered the day before, on which I made the following observations. In coming from sea, leave all the rocks and islands, lying off and within York Minster, on your larboard side; and the black rock, which lies off the south end of Shag island, on your starboard; and when abreast of the south end of that island, haul over for the west shore, taking care to avoid the beds of weeds you will see before you, as they always grow on rocks; some of which I have found twelve fathoms under water; but it is always best to keep clear of them. The entrance to the large harbour, or Port Clerke, is just to the north of some low rocks lying off a point on Shag Island. This harbour lies in W. by S. a mile and an half, and hath in it from twelve to twenty-four fathoms depth, wood and fresh water. About a mile without, or to the southward of Port Clerke, is, or seemed to be, another which I did not examine. It is formed by a large island, which covers it from the south and east winds. Without this island, that is, between it and York Minster, the sea seemed strewed with islets, rocks, and breakers. In proceeding round the south end of Shag Island, we observed the shags to breed in vast numbers in the cliffs of the rocks. Some of the old ones we shot, but could not come at the young ones, which are, by far, the best eating. On the east side of the island we saw some geese; and having with difficulty landed, we killed three, which at this time was a valuable acquisition.

About seven in the evening we got on board, where Mr. Pickersgill had arrived but just before. He informed me that the land opposite to our station was an island, which he had been round; that, on another, more to the north, he found many _terns’_ eggs, and that without the great island, between it and the east head, lay a cove in which were many geese; one only of which he got, besides some young goslins.

This information of Mr. Pickersgill induced me to make up two shooting parties next day; Mr. Pickersgill and his associates going in the cutter, and myself and the botanists in the pinnace. Mr. Pickersgill went by the N. E. side of the large island above mentioned, which obtained the name of Goose Island; and I went by the S. W. side. As soon as we got under the island, we found plenty of shags in the cliffs, but, without staying to spend our time and shot upon these, we proceeded on, and presently found sport enough; for, in the south of the island, were abundance of geese. It happened to be the moulting season; and most of them were on shore for that purpose, and could not fly. There being a great surf, we found great difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when we were landed; so that hundreds of the geese escaped us, some into the sea, and others up into the island. We, however, by one means or other, got sixty-two; with which we returned on board, all heartily tired; but the acquisition we had made overbalanced every other consideration, and we sat down with a good appetite to supper, on part of what the preceding day had produced. Mr. Pickersgill and his associates had got on board some time before us with fourteen geese; so that I was able to make distribution to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable, on account of the approaching festival; for, had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork.

I now learnt that a number of the natives, in nine canoes, had been along-side the ship; and some on board. Little address was required to persuade them to either; for they seemed to be well enough acquainted with Europeans, and had, amongst them, some of their knives.

The next morning, the 25th, they made us another visit. I found them to be of the same nation I had formerly seen in Success-Bay; and the same which M. de Bougainville distinguishes by the name of Pecheras; a word which these had, on every occasion, in their mouths. They are a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. I saw not a tall person amongst them. They were almost naked; their clothing was a seal-skin; some had two or three sewed together, so as to make a cloak which reached to the knees; but the most of them had only one skin, hardly large enough to cover their shoulders; and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women, I was told, cover their nakedness with a flap of a seal-skin, but in other respects are clothed like the men. They, as well as the children, remained in the canoes. I saw two young children at the breast entirely naked; thus they are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a staff. I suppose they were intended to kill seals and fish; they may also kill whales with them, as the Esquimaux do. I know not if they resemble them in their love of train-oil; but they, and every thing they had, smelt most intolerably of it. I ordered them some biscuit, but did not observe them so fond of it as I had been told. They were much better pleased when I gave them some medals, knives, &c.

The women and children, as before observed, remained in the canoes. These were made of bark; and in each was a fire, over which the poor creatures huddled themselves. I cannot suppose that they carry a fire in their canoes for this purpose only; but rather that it may be always ready to remove ashore wherever they land; for let their method of obtaining fire be what it may, they cannot be always sure of finding dry fuel that will kindle from a spark. They likewise carry in their canoes large seal hides, which, I judged, were to shelter them when at sea, and to serve as covering to their huts on shore; and occasionally to be used for sails.

They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of our Christmas cheer. Indeed I believe no one invited them, and for good reasons; for their dirty persons, and the stench they carried about them, were enough to spoil the appetite of any European; and that would have been a real disappointment, as we had not experienced such fare for some time. Roast and boiled geese, goose-pye, &c. was a treat little known to us; and we had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only article of our provision that was mended by keeping. So that our friends in England, did not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than we did.

On the 26th, little wind, next to a calm, and fair weather, except in the morning, when we had some showers of rain. In the evening, when it was cold, the natives made us another visit; and it being distressing to see them stand trembling and naked on the deck, I could do no less than to give them some baize and old canvass to cover themselves.

Having already completed our water, on the 27th I ordered the wood, tent, and observatory to be got on board; and, as this was work for the day, a party of us went in two boats to shoot geese, the weather being fine and pleasant. We proceeded round by the south side of Goose Island, and picked up in all thirty-one. On the east side of the island, to the north of the east point, is good anchorage, in seventeen fathoms water, where it is entirely land-locked. This is a good place for ships to lie in that are bound to the west. On the north side of this isle, I observed three fine coves, in which were both wood and water; but it being near night, I had no time to sound them; though I doubt not, there is anchorage. The way to come at them is by the west end of the island.

When I returned on board, I found every thing got off the shore, and the launch in; so that we now only waited for a wind to put to sea. The festival, which we celebrated at this place, occasioned my giving it the name of Christmas Sound. The entrance, which is three leagues wide, is situated in the latitude of 55° 27ʹ S., longitude 70° 16ʹ W.; and in the direction of N. 37° W. from St. Ildefonso Isles, distant ten leagues. These isles are the best landmark for finding the sound. York Minster, which is the only remarkable land about it, will hardly be known by a stranger from any description that can be given of it, because it alters its appearance according to the different situations it is viewed from. Besides the black rock, which lies off the end of Shag Island, there is another about midway between this and the east shore. A copious description of this sound is unnecessary, as few would be benefited by it. The sketch which accompanies this journal will be a sufficient guide for such ships as chance may bring hither. Anchorage, tufts of wood, and fresh water, will be found in all the coves and harbours. I would advise no one to anchor very near the shore for the sake of having a moderate depth of water; because there I generally found a rocky bottom.

The refreshments to be got here are precarious, as they consist chiefly of wild fowl, and may probably never be found in such plenty as to supply the crew of a ship; and fish, so far as we can judge, are scarce. Indeed the plenty of wild fowl made us pay less attention to fishing. Here are, however, plenty of muscles, not very large, but well tasted; and very good celery is to be met with on several of the low islets, and where the natives have their habitations. The wild-fowl are geese, ducks, sea-pies, shags, and that kind of gull so often mentioned in this journal under the name of Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, called by our people race-horses, on account of the great swiftness with which they run on the water; for they cannot fly, the wings being too short to support the body in the air. This bird is at the Falkland Islands, as appears by Pernety’s journal.[15] The geese too are there, and seem to be very well described under the name of bustards. They are much smaller than our English tame geese, but eat as well as any I ever tasted. They have short black bills and yellow feet. The gander is all white; the female is spotted black and white, or grey with a large white spot on each wing. Besides the bird above mentioned, here are several other aquatic, and some land ones; but of the latter not many.

From the knowledge which the inhabitants seem to have of Europeans, we may suppose that they do not live here continually, but retire to the north during the winter. I have often wondered that these people do not clothe themselves better, since nature has certainly provided materials. They might line their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds; they might make their cloaks larger, and employ the same skins for other parts of clothing; for I cannot suppose they are scarce with them. They were ready enough to part with those they had to our people; which they hardly would have done, had they not known where to have got more. In short, of all the nations I have seen, the Pecheras are the most wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as may render life in some measure more comfortable.

Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient employment to Mr. Forster and his party. The tree which produceth the Winter’s bark, is found here in the woods, as is the holly-leaved barberry, and some other sorts which I know not, but I believe are common in the Straits of Magalhaens. We found plenty of a berry which we called the cranberry, because they are nearly of the same colour, size, and shape. It grows on a bushy plant, has a bitterish taste, rather insipid; but may be eaten either raw or in tarts, and is used as food by the natives.

CHAP. III.

RANGE FROM CHRISTMAS SOUND, ROUND CAPE HORN, THROUGH STRAIT LE MAIRE, AND ROUND STATEN LAND; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF A HARBOUR IN THAT ISLAND, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS.

At four o’clock in the morning on the 28th, we began to unmoor; and at eight weighed and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at N. W. which afterwards freshened, and was attended with rain. At noon, the east point of the sound (Point Nativity), bore N. 1/2 W.; distant one and a half leagues, and St. Ildefonso Isles S. E. 1/2 S., distant seven leagues. The coast seemed to trend in the direction of E. by S., but the weather being very hazy, nothing appeared distinct.

We continued to steer S. E. by E. and E. S. E., with a fresh breeze at W. N. W., till four o’clock P. M., when we hauled to the South, in order to have a nearer view of St. Ildefonso Isles. At this time we were abreast of an inlet, which lies E. S. E. about seven leagues from the sound; but it must be observed that there are some isles without this distinction. At the west point of the inlet, are two high peaked hills; and below them, to the E. two round hills, or isles, which lie in the direction of N. E. and S. W. of each other. An island, or what appeared to be an island, lay in the entrance; and another but smaller inlet appeared to the west of this; indeed, the coast appeared indented and broken as usual.

At half-past five o’clock, the weather clearing up, gave us a good sight of Ildefonso Isles. They are a group of islands and rocks above water, situated above six leagues from the main, and in the latitude of 55° 53ʹ S., longitude 69° 41ʹ W.

We now resumed our course to the east; and, at sun-set, the most advanced land bore S. E. by E. 3/4 E.; and a point, which I judged to be the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by the Dutch fleet under the command of Admiral Hermite in 1624, bore N. 80° E., six leagues distant. In some charts, this point is called false Cape Horn, as being the southern point of Terra del Fuego. It is situated in latitude 55° 39ʹ S. From the inlet above-mentioned to this false cape, the direction of the coast is nearly E., half a point S., distant fourteen or fifteen leagues.

At ten o’clock, having shortened sail, we spent the night in making short boards under the top-sails, and at three next morning, made sail, and steered S. E. by S. with a fresh breeze at W. S. W., the weather somewhat hazy. At this time, the west entrance to Nassau Bay extended from N. by E. to N. 1/2 E., and the south side of Hermite’s Isles, E. by S. At four, _Cape Horn_, for which we now steered, bore E. by S. It is known, at a distance, by a high round hill over it. A point to the W. N. W. shows a surface not unlike this; but their situations alone will always distinguish the one from the other.

At half past seven, we passed this famous _cape_, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the very same point of land I took for the cape, when I passed it in 1769, which at that time I was doubtful of. It is the most southern extremity on a group of islands of unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of Hermite Islands, and is situated in the latitude of 55° 58ʹ, and in the longitude of 68° 13ʹ west, according to the observations made of it in 1769. But the observations, which we had in Christmas Sound, and reduced to the cape, by the watch, and others, which we had afterwards, and reduced back to it by the same means, place it in 67° 19ʹ. It is most probable that a mean between the two, viz. 67° 46ʹ will be nearest the truth. On the N. W. side of the cape are two peaked rocks like sugar loaves. They lie N. W. by N. and S. E. by S., by compass, of each other. Some other straggling low rocks lie west of the cape, and one south of it; but they are all near the shore. From Christmas Sound to Cape Horn, the course is E. S. E. 1/4 E. distant thirty-one leagues. In the direction of E. N. E., three leagues from Cape Horn, is a rocky point, which I called Mistaken Cape, and is the southern point of the easternmost of Hermite Isles. Between these two capes there seemed to be a passage directly into Nassau Bay; some small isles were seen in the passage; and the coast, on the west side, had the appearance of forming good bays or harbours. In some charts, Cape Horn is laid down as belonging to a small island. This was neither confirmed, nor can it be contradicted by us; for several breakers appeared in the coast, both to the east and west of it; and the hazy weather rendered every object indistinct. The summits of some of the hills were rocky, but the sides and valleys seemed covered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts.

From Cape Horn we steered E. by N. 1/2 N. which direction carried us without the rocks that lie off Mistaken Cape. These rocks are white with the dung of fowls; and vast numbers were seen about them. After passing them, we steered N. E. 1/2 E. and N. E. for Strait Le Maire, with a view of looking into Success Bay, to see if there were any traces of the Adventure having been there. At eight o’clock in the evening, drawing near the strait, we shortened sail, and hauled the wind. At this time the Sugar-loaf on Terra del Fuego bore N. 33° W.; the point of Success Bay, just open of the cape of the same name, bearing N. 20° E.; and Staten Land, extending from N. 53° E. to 67° E. Soon after, the wind died away, and we had light airs and calms by turns till near noon the next day; during which time we were driven by the current over to Staten Land.

The calm being succeeded by a light breeze at N. N. W. we stood over for Success Bay, assisted by the currents, which set to the north. Before this, we had hoisted our colours, and fired two guns; and soon after, saw a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south point of the bay; which I judged was made by the natives, as it was at the place where they resided when I was here in 1769. As soon as we got off the bay, I sent lieutenant Pickersgill to see if any traces remained of the Adventure having been there lately; and in the mean time we stood on and off with the ship. At two o’clock, the current turned and set to the south; and Mr. Pickersgill informed me when he returned, that it was falling water on shore; which was contrary to what I had observed when I was here before; for I thought then that the flood came from the north. Mr. Pickersgill saw not the least signs of any ship having been there lately. I had inscribed our ship’s name on a card, which he nailed to a tree at the place where the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view of giving Captain Furneaux some information, in case he should be behind us and put in here.

On Mr. Pickersgill’s landing, he was courteously received by several of the natives, who were cloathed in guanicoe and seal skins, and had on their arms bracelets, made of silver wire, and wrought not unlike the hilt of a sword, being no doubt the manufacture of some Europeans. They were the same kind of people we had seen in Christmas Sound; and, like them, repeated the word Pechera on every occasion. One man spoke much to Mr. Pickersgill, pointing first to the ship and then to the bay, as if he wanted her to come in. Mr. Pickersgill said the bay was full of whales and seals; and we had observed the same in the strait, especially on the Terra del Fuego side, where the whales, in particular, are exceedingly numerous.

As soon as the boat was hoisted in, which was not till near six o’clock, we made sail to the east, with a fine breeze at north. For since we had explored the south coast of Terra del Fuego, I resolved to do the same by Staten Land; which I believed to have been as little known as the former. At nine o’clock the wind freshening, and veering to N. W. we tacked, and stood to S. W. in order to spend the night; which proved none of the best, being stormy and hazy, with rain.

Next morning, at three o’clock, we bore up for the east end of Staten Land, which, at half past four, bore S. 60° E. the west end S. 2° E. and the land of Terra del Fuego S. 40° W. Soon after I had taken these bearings, the land was again obscured in a thick haze, and we were obliged to make way, as it were, in the dark; for it was but now and then we got a sight of the coast. As we advanced to the east, we perceived several islands, of unequal extent, lying off the land. There seemed to be a clear passage between the easternmost and the one next to it, to the west. I would gladly have gone through this passage, and anchored under one of the islands, to have waited for better weather; for on sounding we found only twenty-nine fathoms water; but when I considered that this was running to leeward in the dark, I chose to keep without the islands, and accordingly hauled off to the north. At eight o’clock we were abreast of the most eastern isle, distant from it about two miles, and had the same depth of water as before. I now shortened sail to the three top-sails, to wait for clear weather; for the fog was so thick, that we could see no other land than this island. After waiting an hour, and the weather not clearing up, we bore, and hauled round the east end of the island, for the sake of smooth water and anchorage, if it should be necessary. In hauling round, we found a strong race of a current, like unto broken water; but we had no less than nineteen fathoms. We also saw on the island abundance of seals and birds. This was a temptation too great for people in our situation to withstand, to whom fresh provisions of any kind were acceptable; and determined me to anchor, in order that we might taste of what we now only saw at a distance. At length, after making a few boards, fishing, as it were, for the best ground, we anchored in twenty-one fathoms water, a stony bottom, about a mile from the island, which extended from N. 18° E. to N. 55° 1/2 W.; and soon after, the weather clearing up, we saw Cape St. John, or the east end of Staten Land, bearing S. 75° E., distant four leagues. We were sheltered from the south wind by Staten Land, and from the north wind by the island; the other isles lay to the west, and secured us from that wind; but beside being open to the N. E. and E. we also lay exposed to the N. N. W. winds. This might have been avoided by anchoring more to the west; but I made choice of my situation for two reasons: first, to be near the island we intended to land upon; and secondly, to be able to get to sea with any wind.

After dinner we hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party of men; some to kill seals; others to catch or kill birds, fish, or what came in our way. To find of the former, it mattered not where we landed; for the whole shore was covered with them; and, by the noise they made, one would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On landing, we found they were a different animal from seals, but in shape and motion exactly resembling them. We called them lions, on account of the great resemblance the male has to that beast. Here were also the same kind of seals which we found in New Zealand, generally known by the name of sea-bears; at least, we gave them that name. They were, in general, so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer us to come near enough to knock them down with sticks; but the large ones we shot, not thinking it safe to approach them. We also found on the island abundance of penguins and shags; and the latter had young ones almost fledged, and just to our taste. Here were geese and ducks, but not many; birds of prey, and a few small birds. In the evening we returned on board, our boats well laden with one thing or other.

Next day being January the 1st, 1775, finding that nothing was wanting but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh at, whom chance or design might bring hither, I sent Mr. Gilbert over to Staten Land in the cutter, to look for one. Appearances promised success, in a place opposite the ship. I sent also two other boats for the lions, &c. we had killed the preceding day; and soon after, I went myself, and observed the sun’s meridian altitude at the N. E. end of the island, which gave the latitude 54° 40ʹ 5ʺ south. After shooting a few geese, some other birds, and plentifully supplying ourselves with young shags, we returned on board, laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, &c. The old lions and bears were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, or fat, to make oil of; for, except their harslets, which were tolerable, the flesh was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the young cubs were very palatable; and even the flesh of some of the old lionesses was not much amiss; but that of the old males was abominable. In the afternoon, I sent some people on shore to skin and cut off the fat of those which yet remained dead on shore; for we had already more carcasses on board than necessary; and I went myself, in another boat, to collect birds. About ten o’clock Mr. Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he found a good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St. John, and in the direction of north, a little easterly, from the N. E. end of the eastern island. It may be known by some small islands lying in the entrance. The channel, which is on the east side of these islands, is half a mile broad. The course in is S. W. by S. turning gradually to W. by S. and west. The harbour lies nearly in this last direction; is almost two miles in length; in some places near a mile broad; and hath in it from fifty to ten fathoms water, a bottom of mud and sand. Its shores are covered with wood fit for fuel; and in it are several streams of fresh water. On the islands were sea-lions, &c. and such an innumerable quantity of gulls as to darken the air when disturbed, and almost to suffocate our people with their dung. This they seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than asafœtida, or as it is commonly called, devil’s dung. Our people also saw several geese, ducks, and race-horses, which is also a kind of duck. The day on which this port was discovered, occasioned my calling it New Year’s Harbour. It would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or round Cape Horn, if its situation would permit them, to put to sea with an easterly and northerly wind. This inconvenience, however, is of little consequence, since these winds are never known to be of long duration. The southerly and westerly are the prevailing winds; so that a ship can never be detained long in this port.

As we could not sail in the morning of the 2d, for want of wind, I sent a party of men on shore to the island, on the same duty as before. Towards noon we got a fresh breeze at west; but it came too late, and I resolved to wait till the next morning, when, at four o’clock, we weighed with a fresh gale at N. W. by W. and stood for Cape St. John, which, at half-past six, bore N. by E. distant four or five miles. This cape, being the eastern point of Staten Land, a description of it is unnecessary. It may, however, not be amiss to say, that it is a rock of considerable height, situated in the latitude of 54° 46ʹ South, longitude 64° 7ʹ West, with a rocky islet lying close under the north part of it. To the westward of the cape, about five or six miles, is an inlet, which seemed to divide the land; that is, to communicate with the sea to the south; and between this inlet and the cape is a bay; but I cannot say of what depth. In sailing round the cape, we met with a very strong current from the south: it made a race which looked like breakers; and it was as much as we could do, with a strong gale, to make head against it.

After getting round the cape, I hauled up along the south coast; and as soon as we had brought the wind to blow off the land, it came upon us in such heavy squalls as obliged us to double-reef our topsails. It afterwards fell, by little and little, and at noon ended in a calm. At this time Cape St. John bore N. 20° east, distant three and a half leagues; Cape St. Bartholomew, or the S. W. point of Staten Land, S. 83° west; two high detached rocks N. 80° west; and the place where the land seemed to be divided, which had the same appearance on this side, bore N. 15° west, three leagues distant. Latitude observed 54° 56ʹ. In this situation we sounded, but had no bottom, with a line of one hundred and twenty fathoms. The calm was of very short duration, a breeze presently springing up at N. W., but it was too faint to make head against the current, and we drove with it back to the N. N. E. At four o’clock the wind veered at once to S. by E. and blew in squalls attended with rain. Two hours after, the squalls and rain subsided, and the wind returning back to the west, blew a gentle gale. All this time the current set us to the north; so that, at eight o’clock, Cape St. John bore W. N. W. distant about seven leagues. I now gave over plying, and steered S. E. with a resolution to leave the land; judging it to be sufficiently explored to answer the most general purposes of navigation and geography.

CHAP. IV.

OBSERVATIONS, GEOGRAPHICAL AND NAUTICAL, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE ISLANDS NEAR STATEN LAND, AND THE ANIMALS FOUND IN THEM.

The annexed chart will very accurately shew the direction, extent, and position of the coast, along which I have sailed, either in this or my former voyage; and no more is to be expected from it. The latitudes have been determined by the sun’s meridian altitude, which we were so fortunate as to obtain every day, except the one we sailed from Christmas Sound; which was of no consequence, as its latitude was known before. The longitudes have been settled by lunar observations, as is already mentioned. I have taken 67° 46ʹ for the longitude of Cape Horn. From this meridian, the longitudes of all the other parts are deduced by the watch; by which the extent of the whole must be determined to a few miles; and whatever errors there may be in longitude, must be general. But I think it highly probable, that the longitude is determined to within a quarter of a degree. Thus the extent of Terra del Fuego from east to west, and consequently that of the Straits of Magalhaens, will be found less than most navigators have made it.

In order to illustrate this, and to show the situations of the neighbouring lands, and, by this means, make the annexed chart of more general use, I have extended it down to 47° of latitude. But I am only answerable for the inaccuracy of such parts as I have explored myself. In laying down the rest, I had recourse to the following authorities.

The longitude of Cape Virgin Mary, which is the most essential point, as it determines the length of the Straits of Magalhaens, is deduced from Lord Anson, who made 2° 3ʹ difference of longitude between it and the Strait Le Maire. Now as the latter lies in 65° 22ʹ, Cape Virgin Mary must lie in 67° 52ʹ, which is the longitude I have assigned to it, and which, I have reason to think, cannot be far from the truth.

The Strait of Magalhaens, and the east coast of Patagonia, are laid down from the observations made by the late English and French navigators.

The position of the west coast of America, from Cape Victory northward, I have taken from the discoveries of _Sarmiento_, a Spanish navigator, communicated to me by Mr. Stuart, F. R. S.

Falkland islands are copied from a sketch taken from Captain M’Bride, who circumnavigated them some years ago in his Majesty’s ship Jason; and their distance from the main is agreeable to the run of the Dolphin, under the command of Commodore Byron, from Cape Virgin Mary to Port Egmont, and from Port Egmont to Port Desire; both of which runs were made in a few days; consequently no material errors could happen.

The S. W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with respect to inlets, islands, &c. may be compared to the coast of Norway; for I doubt, if there be an extent of three leagues where there is not an inlet or harbour which will receive and shelter the largest shipping. The worst is, that till these inlets are better known, one has, as it were, to fish for anchorage. There are several lurking rocks on the coast; but happily none of them lie far from land, the approach to which may be known by sounding, supposing the weather so obscure that you cannot see it. For to judge of the whole by the parts we have sounded, it is more than probable that there are soundings all along the coast, and for several leagues out to sea. Upon the whole, this is by no means the dangerous coast it has been represented.

Staten Land lies nearly E. by N. and W. by S. and is ten leagues long in that direction; and no where above three or four leagues broad. The coast is rocky, much indented, and seemed to form several bays or inlets. It shews a surface of craggy hills which spire up to a vast height, especially near the west end. Except the craggy summits of the hills, the greatest part was covered with trees and shrubs, or some sort of herbage, and there was little or no snow on it. The currents between Cape Deseada and Cape Horn, set from west to east, that is, in the same direction as the coast; but they are by no means considerable. To the east of the cape their strength is much increased, and their direction is N. E. towards Staten Land. They are rapid in Strait Le Maire and along the south coast of Staten Land, and set like a torrent round Cape St. John; where they take a N. W. direction, and continue to run very strong both within and without New Year’s isles. While we lay at anchor within this island, I observed that the current was strongest during the flood; and that, on the ebb, its strength was so much impaired, that the ship would sometimes ride head to wind when it was at west and W. N. W. This is only to be understood of the place where the ship lay at anchor; for at the very time we had a strong current setting to the westward, Mr. Gilbert found one of equal strength near the coast of Staten Land, setting to the eastward; though probably this was an eddy current or tide.

If the tides are regulated by the moon, it is high-water by the shore at this place, on the days of the new and full moon, about four o’clock. The perpendicular rise and fall is very inconsiderable, not exceeding four feet at most. In Christmas Sound it is high water at half past two o’clock on the days of the full and change, and Mr. Wales observed it to rise and fall, on a perpendicular, three feet six inches; but this was during the neap-tides, consequently the spring-tides must rise higher. To give such an account of the tides and currents on these coasts as navigators might depend on, would require a multitude of observations, and in different places, the making of which would be a work of time. I confess myself unprovided with materials for such a task; and believe that the less I say on this subject the fewer mistakes I shall make. But I think I have been able to observe, that in Strait Le Maire, the southerly tide or current, be it flood or ebb, begins to act on the days of new and full moon about four o’clock, which remark may be of use to ships who pass the strait.

Were I bound round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood or water, or any thing that might make it necessary to put into port, I would not come near the land at all. For by keeping out at sea, you avoid the currents, which, I am satisfied, lose their force at ten or twelve leagues from land; and at a greater distance there is none.

During the time we were upon the coast, we had more calms than storms, and the winds so variable that I question if a passage might not have been made from east to west in as short a time as from west to east; nor did we experience any cold weather. The mercury in the thermometer at noon was never below 46°; and while we lay in Christmas Sound, it was generally above temperate. At this place, the variation was 23° 30ʹ east; a few leagues to the S. W. of Strait Le Maire, it was 24°; and at anchor, within New Year’s isles, it was 24° 20ʹ east.

These isles are, in general, so unlike Staten Land, especially the one on which we landed, that it deserves a particular description. It shews a surface of equal height, and elevated about thirty or forty feet above the sea, from which it is defended by a rocky coast. The inner part of the isle is covered with a sort of sword-grass, very green, and of a great length. It grows on little hillocks, of two or three feet in diameter, and as many or more in height, in large tufts, which seemed to be composed of the roots of the plant matted together. Among these hillocks are a vast number of paths made by sea-bears and penguins, by which they retire into the centre of the isle. It is, nevertheless, exceedingly bad travelling; for these paths are so dirty that one is sometimes up to the knees in mire. Besides this plant, there are a few other grasses, a kind of heath, and some celery. The whole surface is moist and wet, and on the coast are several small streams of water. The sword-grass, as I call it, seems to be the same that grows in Falkland isles, described by Bougainville as a kind of _gladiolus_, or rather a species of _gramen_,[16] and named by Pernety, corn-flags.

The animals found on this little spot are sea-lions, sea-bears, a variety of oceanic and some land birds. The sea-lion is pretty well described by Pernety; though those we saw here have not such fore-feet or fins as that he has given a plate of, but such fins as that which he calls the sea-wolf. Nor did we see any of the size he speaks of; the largest not being more than twelve or fourteen feet in length, and perhaps eight or ten in circumference. They are not of that kind described, under the same name, by Lord Anson; but, for aught I know, these would more properly deserve that appellation; the long hair with which the back of the head, the neck and shoulders, are covered, giving them greatly the air and appearance of a lion. The other part of the body is covered with a short hair, little longer than that of a cow or a horse, and the whole is a dark brown. The female is not half so big as the male, and is covered with a short hair of an ash, or light dun colour. They live, as it were, in herds, on the rocks, and near the sea-shore. As this was the time for engendering as well as bringing forth their young, we have seen a male with twenty or thirty females about him, and always very attentive to keep them all to himself, and beating off every other male who attempted to come into his flock. Others again had a less number; some no more than one or two; and here and there we have seen one lying growling in a retired place, alone, and suffering neither males nor females to approach him: we judged these were old and superannuated.

The sea-bears are not so large, by far, as the lions, but rather larger than a common seal. They have none of that long hair which distinguishes the lion. Theirs is all of an equal length, and finer than that of the lion, something like an otter’s; and the general colour is that of iron-grey. This is the kind which the French call sea-wolfs, and the English seals; they are, however, different from the seals we have in Europe and in North America. The lions may too, without any great impropriety, be called overgrown seals; for they are all of the same species. It was not at all dangerous to go among them; for they either fled or lay still. The only danger was in going between them and the sea; for if they took fright at any thing, they would come down in such numbers, that, if you could not get out of their way, you would be run over. Sometimes, when we came suddenly upon them, or waked them out of their sleep (for they are a sluggish sleepy animal), they would raise up their heads, snort and snarl, and look as fierce as if they meant to devour us; but as we advanced upon them, they always run away; so that they are downright bullies.

The penguin is an amphibious bird, so well known to most people, that I shall only observe, they are here in prodigious numbers; so that we could knock down as many as we pleased with a stick. I cannot say they are good eating. I have indeed made several good meals of them; but it was for want of better victuals. They either do not breed here, or else this was not the season; for we saw neither eggs nor young ones.

Shags breed here in vast numbers; and we carried on board not a few, as they are very good eating. They take certain spots to themselves, and build their nests near the edge of the cliffs on little hillocks, which are either those of the sword-grass, or else they are made by the shags building on them from year to year. There is another sort rather smaller than these, which breed on the cliffs of rocks.

The geese are of the same sort we found in Christmas Sound; we saw but few; and some had young ones. Mr. Forster shot one which was different from these, being larger, with a grey plumage, and black feet. The others make a noise exactly like a duck. Here were ducks, but not many; and several of that sort which we called race-horses. We shot some, and found them to weigh twenty-nine or thirty pounds; those who ate of them said they were very good.

The oceanic birds were gulls, terns, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown bird of the size of an albatross, which Pernety calls quebrantahuessas. We called them Mother Cary’s geese, and found them pretty good eating. The land-birds were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed vultures, or what our seamen called turkey buzzards, thrushes, and a few other small birds.

Our naturalists found two new species of birds. The one is about the size of a pigeon, the plumage as white as milk. They feed along shore, probably on shell-fish and carrion; for they have a very disagreeable smell. When we first saw these birds, we thought they were the snow-peterel, but the moment they were in our possession, the mistake was discovered; for they resemble them in nothing but size and colour. These are not web-footed. The other sort is a species of curlews nearly as big as a heron. It has a variegated plumage, the principal colours whereof are light grey, and a long crooked bill.

I had almost forgot to mention that there are sea-pies, or what we called, when in New Zealand, curlews; but we only saw a few straggling pairs. It may not be amiss to observe, that the shags are the same bird which Bougainville calls saw-bills; but he is mistaken in saying that the quebrantahuessas are their enemies; for this bird is of the peterel tribe, feeds wholly on fish, and is to be found in all the high southern latitudes.

It is amazing to see how the different animals, which inhabit this little spot, are mutually reconciled. They seem to have entered into a league not to disturb each other’s tranquillity. The sea-lions occupy most of the sea-coast; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle; the shags have post in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; and the other birds chuse more retired places. We have seen all these animals mix together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molest the other. Nay, I have often observed the eagles and vultures sitting on the hillocks among the shags, without the latter, either young or old, being disturbed at their presence. It may be asked how these birds of prey live? I suppose, on the carcasses of seals and birds which die by various causes; and probably not few, as they are so numerous.

This very imperfect account is written more with a view to assist my own memory, than to give information to others. I am neither a botanist nor a naturalist; and have not words to describe the productions of nature, either in the one branch of knowledge or the other.

CHAP. V.

PROCEEDINGS AFTER LEAVING STATEN ISLAND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE ISLE OF GEORGIA, AND A DESCRIPTION OF IT.

Having left the land in the evening of the 3d, as before mentioned, we saw it again next morning, at three o’clock, bearing W. Wind continued to blow a steady fresh breeze till six P. M. when it shifted in a heavy squall to S. W. which came so suddenly upon us, that we had not time to take in the sails, and was the occasion of carrying away a top-gallant mast, a studding-sail boom, and a fore studding-sail. The squall ended in a heavy shower of rain, but the wind remained at S. W. Our course was S. E. with a view of discovering that extensive coast, laid down by Mr. Dalrymple in his chart, in which is the Gulph of St. Sebastian. I designed to make the western point of that gulph, in order to have all the other parts before me. Indeed, I had some doubt of the existence of such a coast; and this appeared to me the best route for clearing it up, and for exploring the southern part of this ocean.

On the 5th, fresh gales, and wet and cloudy weather. At noon observed in 57° 9ʹ, longitude made from Cape Saint John, 5° 2ʹ E. At six o’clock, P. M. being in the latitude 57° 21ʹ, and in longitude 57° 45ʹ W., the variation was 21° 28ʹ E.

At eight o’clock in the evening of the 6th, being then in the latitude of 58° 9ʹ S. longitude 53° 14ʹ W., we close-reefed our top-sails, and hauled to the north, with a very strong gale at W., attended with a thick haze and sleet. The situation just mentioned is nearly the same that Mr. Dalrymple assigns for the S. W. point of the Gulph of St. Sebastian. But as we saw neither land, nor signs of land, I was the more doubtful of its existence, and was fearful, that by keeping to the south I might miss the land said to be discovered by La Roche in 1675, and by the ship Lion in 1756, which Mr. Dalrymple places in 54° 30ʹ latitude, and 45° of longitude; but on looking over Danville’s Chart, I found it laid down 9° or 10° more to the west; this difference of situation being to me a sign of the uncertainty of both accounts, determined me to get into the parallel as soon as possible, and was the reason of my hauling to the north at this time.

Towards the morning of the 7th, the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the wind veered to the W. S. W. where it continued till midnight; after which it veered to N. W. Being at this time in the latitude of 56° 4ʹ S. longitude 53° 36ʹ W., we sounded, but found no bottom with a line of one hundred and thirty fathoms. I still kept the wind on the larboard-tack, having a gentle breeze and pleasant weather. On the 8th, at noon, a bed of sea-weed passed the ship. In the afternoon, in the latitude of 55° 4ʹ, longitude 51° 45ʹ W., the variation was 20° 4ʹ E.

On the 9th, wind at N. E. attended with thick hazy weather; saw a seal, and a piece of sea-weed. At noon, latitude 55° 12ʹ S. longitude 50° 15ʹ W., the wind and weather continuing the same till towards midnight, when the latter cleared up, and the former veered to west, and blew a gentle gale. We continued to ply till two o’clock the next morning, when we bore away E., and at eight, E. N. E.; at noon, observed in latitude 54° 35ʹ S., longitude 47° 56ʹ W., a great many albatrosses and blue peterels about the ship. I now steered E., and the next morning, in the latitude of 54° 38ʹ, longitude 45° 10ʹ W., the variation was 19° 25ʹ E. In the afternoon saw several penguins, and some pieces of weed.

Having spent the night lying to, on the 12th, at day-break, we bore away, and steered east northerly, with a fine fresh breeze at W. S. W.; at noon observed in latitude 54° 28ʹ S., longitude in 42° 8ʹ W.; that is, near 3° E. of the situation in which Mr. Dalrymple places the N. E. point of the Gulph of St. Sebastian; but we had no other signs of land than seeing a seal and a few penguins; on the contrary we had a swell from E. S. E. which would hardly have been, if any extensive track of land lay in that direction. In the evening the gale abated, and at midnight it fell calm.

The calm, attended by a thick fog, continued till six next morning, when we got a wind at E., but the fog still prevailed. We stood to the S. till noon, when, being in the latitude of 55° 7ʹ, we tacked and stretched to the N. with a fresh breeze at E. by S. and E. S. E. cloudy weather; saw several penguins and a snow-peterel, which we looked on to be signs of the vicinity of ice. The air too was much colder than we had felt it since we left New Zealand. In the afternoon the wind veered to S. E. and in the night to S. S. E. and blew fresh; with which we stood to the N. E.

At nine o’clock the next morning we saw an island of ice as we then thought; but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land. At this time it bore E. 3/4 S., distant thirteen leagues; our latitude was 53° 56-1/2ʹ, longitude 39° 24ʹ W.; several penguins, small divers, a snow-peterel, and a vast number of blue peterels about the ship. We had but little wind all the morning; and at two P. M. it fell calm. It was now no longer doubted that it was land, and not ice, which we had in sight. It was, however, in a manner wholly covered with snow. We were farther confirmed in our judgment of its being land, by finding soundings at one hundred and seventy-five fathoms, a muddy bottom. The land at this time bore E. by S., about twelve leagues distant. At six o’clock the calm was succeeded by a breeze at N. E., with which we stood to S. E. At first it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards increased so as to bring us under double-reefed topsails, and was attended with snow and sleet.

We continued to stand to the S. E. till seven in the morning on the 15th, when the wind veering to the S. E. we tacked and stood to the N. A little before we tacked, we saw the land bearing E. by N. At noon the mercury in the thermometer was at 35-1/4°. The wind blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and we had a great sea to encounter. At a lee-lurch which the ship took, Mr. Wales observed her to lie down 42°. At half-past four P. M. we took in the top-sails, got down top-gallant yards, wore the ship, and stood to the S. W. under two courses. At midnight the storm abated, so that we could carry the top-sails double reefed.

At four in the morning of the 16th, we wore and stood to the E., with the wind at S. S. E., a moderate breeze and fair; at eight o’clock saw the land extending from E. by N. to N. E. by N.; loosed a reef out of each top-sail, got top-gallant yards across, and set the sails. At noon observed in latitude 54° 25-1/2ʹ; longitude 38° 18ʹ W. In this situation we had one hundred and ten fathoms’ water; and the land extended from N. 1/2 W. to E., eight leagues distant. The northern extreme was the same that we first discovered, and it proved to be an island which obtained the name of Willis’s Island, after the person who first saw it.

At this time we had a great swell from the S., an indication that no land was near us in that direction; nevertheless, the vast quantity of snow on that in sight, induced us to think it was extensive, and I chose to begin with exploring the northern coast. With this view we bore up for Willis’s Island, all sails set, having a fine gale at S. S. W. As we advanced to the N., we perceived another isle lying east of Willis’s, and between it and the main. Seeing there was a clear passage between the two isles, we steered for it, and at five o’clock, being in the middle of it, we found it about two miles broad.

Willis’s Isle is a high rock of no great extent, near to which are some rocky islets. It is situated in the latitude of 54° S., longitude 38° 23ʹ W. The other isle, which obtained the name of Bird Isle, on account of the vast number that were upon it, is not so high, but of greater extent, and is close to the N. E. point of the main land, which I called Cape North.

The S. E. coast of this land, as far as we saw it, lies in the direction of S. 50° E., and N. 50° W. It seemed to form several bays or inlets; and we observed huge masses of snow, or ice, in the bottoms of them, especially in one which lies ten miles to the S. S. E. of Bird Isle.

After getting through the passage, we found the north coast trended E. by N. for about nine miles; and then E. and E. southerly to Cape Buller, which is eleven miles more. We ranged the coast, at one league distance, till near ten o’clock, when we brought to for the night, and, on sounding, found fifty fathoms, a muddy bottom.

At two o’clock in the morning of the 17th, we made sail in for the land, with a fine breeze at S. W.; at four, Willis’s Isle bore W. by S., distant thirty-two miles; Cape Buller, to the west of which lie some rocky islets, bore S. W. by W.; and the most advanced point of land to the E., S. 63° E. We now steered along the shore, at the distance of four or five miles, till seven o’clock, when, seeing the appearance of an inlet, we hauled in for it. As soon as we drew near the shore, having hoisted out a boat, I embarked in it, accompanied by Mr. Forster and his party, with a view of reconnoitring the bay before we ventured in with the ship. When we put off from her, which was about four miles from the shore, we had forty fathoms’ water. I continued to sound as I went farther in, but found no bottom with a line of thirty-four fathoms, which was the length of that I had in the boat, and which also proved too short to sound the bay, so far as I went up it. I observed it to lie in S. W. by S. about two leagues, about two miles broad, well sheltered from all winds; and I judged there might be good anchorage before some sandy beaches which are on each side, and likewise near a low flat isle, towards the head of the bay. As I had come to a resolution not to bring the ship in, I did not think it worth my while to go and examine these places; for it did not seem probable that any one would ever be benefited by the discovery. I landed in three different places, displayed our colours, and took possession of the country in his Majesty’s name, under a discharge of small arms.

I judged that the tide rises about four or five feet, and that it is high water on the full and change days about eleven o’clock.

The head of the bay, as well as two places on each side, was terminated by perpendicular ice-cliffs of considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off, and floating out to sea; and a great fall happened while we were in the bay, which made a noise like cannon.

The inner parts of the country were not less savage and horrible. The wild rocks raised their lofty summits, till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, nor a shrub even big enough to make a toothpick. The only vegetation we met with, was a coarse strong-bladed grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which sprung from the rocks.

Seals, or sea bears, were pretty numerous. They were smaller than those at Staten Land; perhaps the most of those we saw were females; for the shore swarmed with young cubs. We saw none of that sort which we call lions; but there were some of those which the writer of Lord Anson’s Voyage describes under that name; at least they appeared to us to be of the same sort; and are, in my opinion, very improperly called lions; for I could not see any grounds for the comparison.

Here were several flocks of penguins, the largest I ever saw; some, which we brought on board, weighed from twenty-nine to thirty-eight pounds. It appears by Bougainville’s account of the animals of Falkland Islands, that this penguin is there; and I think it is very well described by him under the name of First Class of Penguins.[17] The Oceanic birds were albatrosses, common gulls, and that sort which I call Port Egmont hens, terns, shags, divers, the new white bird, and a small bird like those of the Cape of Good Hope, called yellow birds; which, having shot two, we found most delicious food.

All the land birds we saw consisted of a few small larks; nor did we meet with any quadrupeds. Mr. Forster, indeed, observed some dung, which he judged to come from a fox, or some such animal. The lands, or rather rocks, bordering on the sea-coast, were not covered with snow like the inland parts; but all the vegetation we could see on the clear places was the grass above mentioned. The rocks seemed to contain iron. Having made the above observations, we set out for the ship, and got on board a little after twelve o’clock, with a quantity of seals and penguins, an acceptable present to the crew.

It must not, however, be understood that we were in want of provisions: we had yet plenty of every kind; and since we had been on this coast, I had ordered, in addition to the common allowance, wheat to be boiled every morning for breakfast; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred by most on board to salt. For my own part, I was now, for the first time, heartily tired of salt meat of every kind; and though the flesh of the penguins could scarcely vie with bullock’s liver, its being fresh was sufficient to make it go down. I called the bay we had been in, Possession Bay. It is situated in the latitude of 54° 5ʹ S., longitude 37° 18ʹ W., and eleven leagues to the east of Cape North. A few miles to the west of Possession Bay, between it and Cape Buller, lies the Bay of Isles; so named on account of several small isles lying in and before it.

As soon as the boat was hoisted in, we made sail along the coast to the E. with a fine breeze at W. S. W. From Cape Buller, the direction of the coast is S. 72° 30ʹ E., for the space of eleven or twelve leagues, to a projecting point, which obtained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this Cape, is a pretty large bay, which I named Cumberland Bay. In several parts in the bottom of it, as also in some others of less extent, lying between Cape Saunders and Possession Bay, were vast tracks of frozen snow, or ice not yet broken loose. At eight o’clock, being just past Cumberland Bay, and falling little wind, we hauled off the coast, from which we were distant about four miles, and found one hundred and ten fathoms’ water.

We had variable light airs and calms till six o’clock the next morning, when the wind fixed at N. and blew a gentle breeze; but it lasted no longer than ten o’clock, when it fell almost to a calm. At noon, observed in latitude 54° 30ʹ S., being then about two or three leagues from the coast, which extended from N. 59° W. to S. 13° W. The land in this last direction was an isle, which seemed to be the extremity of the coast to the east. The nearest land to us being a projecting point which terminated in a round hillock, was, on account of the day, named Cape Charlotte. On the west side of Cape Charlotte lies a bay, which obtained the name of Royal Bay, and the west point of it was named Cape George. It is the east point of Cumberland Bay, and lies in the direction of S. E. by E. from Cape Saunders, distant seven leagues. Cape George and Cape Charlotte lie in the direction of S. 37° E., and N. 37° W., distant six leagues from each other. The isle above mentioned, which was called Cooper’s Isle, after my first lieutenant, lies in the direction of S. by E., distant eight leagues from Cape Charlotte. The coast between them forms a large bay, to which I gave the name of Sandwich. The wind being variable all the afternoon, we advanced but little; in the night it fixed at S. and S. S. W., and blew a gentle gale attended with showers of snow.

The 19th was wholly spent in plying, the wind continuing at S. and S. W., clear pleasant weather, but cold. At sun-rise, a new land was seen bearing S. E. 1/2 E. It first appeared in a single hill, like a sugar-loaf; some time after, other detached pieces appeared above the horizon near the hill. At noon observed in the latitude 54° 42ʹ 30ʺ S., Cape Charlotte bearing N. 38° W., distant four leagues; and Cooper’s Isle S. 31° W. In this situation, a lurking rock, which lies off Sandwich Bay, five miles from the land, bore W. 1/2 N., distant one mile, and near this rock were several breakers. In the afternoon we had a prospect of a ridge of mountains behind Sandwich Bay, whose lofty and icy summits were elevated high above the clouds. The wind continued at S. S. W. till six o’clock, when it fell to a calm. At this time Cape Charlotte bore N. 31° W., and Cooper’s Island W. S. W. In this situation we found the variation, by the azimuths, to be 11° 39ʹ, and by the amplitude, ll° 12ʹ E. At ten o’clock, a light breeze springing up at N., we steered to the S. till twelve, and then brought to for the night.

At two o’clock in the morning of the 20th, we made sail to S. W., round Cooper’s Island. It is a rock of considerable height, about five miles in circuit, and one mile from the main. At this isle the main coast takes a S. W. direction for the space of four or five leagues to a point, which I called Cape Disappointment. Off that, are three small isles, the southernmost of which is green, low, and flat, and lies one league from the Cape.

As we advanced to S. W., land opened off this point, in the direction of N. 60° West, and nine leagues beyond it. It proved an island quite detached from the main, and obtained the name of Pickersgill Island, after my third officer. Soon after, a point of the main, beyond this island, came in sight, in the direction of N. 55° W.; which exactly united the coast at the very point we had seen, and taken the bearing of, the day we first came in with it, and proved to a demonstration that this land, which we had taken for part of a great continent, was no more than an island of seventy leagues in circuit.

Who would have thought that an island of no greater extent than this, situated between the latitude of 54° and 55°, should, in the very height of summer, be in a manner wholly covered many fathoms deep with frozen snow, but more especially the S. W. coast? The very sides and craggy summits of the lofty mountains were cased with snow and ice; but the quantity which lay in the valleys is incredible; and at the bottom of the bays, the coast was terminated by a wall of ice of considerable height. It can hardly be doubted that a great deal of ice is formed here in the winter, which in the spring is broken off and dispersed over the sea; but this island cannot produce the ten-thousandth part of what we saw; so that either there must be more land, or the ice is formed without it. These reflections led me to think that the land we had seen the preceding day might belong to an extensive track; and I still had hopes of discovering a continent. I must confess the disappointment I now met with, did not affect me much, for to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would not be worth the discovery.

I called this land the Isle of Georgia in honour of his Majesty. It is situated between the latitude of 53° 57ʹ and 54° 57ʹ S.; and between 38° 13ʹ and 35° 34ʹ W. longitude. It extends S. E. by E., and N. W. by W. and is thirty-one leagues long in that direction; and its greatest breadth is about ten leagues. It seems to abound with bays and harbours, the N. E. coast especially; but the vast quantity of ice must render them inaccessible the greatest part of the year; or, at least, it must be dangerous lying in them, on account of the breaking up of the ice-cliffs.

It is remarkable that we did not see a river or stream of fresh water, on the whole coast. I think it highly probable that there are no perennial springs in the country; and that the interior parts, as being much elevated, never enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in such quantities as to produce a river or stream of water. The coast alone receives warmth sufficient to melt the snow, and this only on the N. E. side; for the other, besides being exposed to the cold south winds, is in a great degree deprived of the sun’s rays by the uncommon height of the mountains.

It was from a persuasion that the sea-coast of a land situated in the latitude of 54°, could not, in the very height of summer, be wholly covered with snow, that I supposed Bouvet’s discovery to be large islands of ice. But after I had seen this land, I no longer hesitated about the existence of Cape Circumcision; nor did I doubt that I should find more land than I should have time to explore. With these ideas I quitted this coast, and directed my course to the E. S. E. for the land we had seen the preceding day.

The wind was very variable till noon, when it fixed at N. N. E., and blew a gentle gale; but it increased in such a manner, that, before three o’clock, we were reduced to our two courses, and obliged to strike top-gallant yards. We were very fortunate in getting clear of the land before this gale overtook us, it being hard to say what might have been the consequence had it come on while we were on the north coast. This storm was of short duration, for at eight o’clock it began to abate, and at midnight it was little wind. We then took the opportunity to sound, but found no bottom with a line of an hundred and eighty fathoms.

Next day the storm was succeeded by a thick fog, attended with rain; the wind veered to N. W., and at five in the morning it fell calm, which continued till eight, and then we got a breeze southerly, with which we stood to the east till three in the afternoon. The weather then coming somewhat clear, we made sail and steered north in search of the land; but at half past six we were again involved in a thick mist, which made it necessary to haul the wind, and spend the night in making short boards.

We had variable light airs, next to a calm, and thick foggy weather, till half-past seven o’clock in the evening of the 22d, when we got a fine breeze at N., and the weather was so clear that we could see two or three leagues round us. We seized the opportunity, and steered to west; judging we were to the east of the land. After running ten miles to the west, the weather became again foggy, and we hauled the wind, and spent the night under top-sails.

Next morning, at six o’clock, the fog clearing away so that we could see three or four miles, I took the opportunity to steer again to the W., with the wind at E., a fresh breeze; but two hours after, a thick fog once more obliged us to haul the wind to the south. At eleven o’clock, a short interval of clear weather gave us a view of three or four rocky islets, extending from S. E. to E. N. E., two or three miles distant; but we did not see the Sugar-loaf Peak before-mentioned. Indeed, two or three miles was the extent of our horizon.

We were well assured that this was the land we had seen before, which we had now been quite round: and therefore it could be no more than a few detached rocks, receptacles for birds, of which we now saw vast numbers, especially shags, who gave us notice of the vicinity of land before we saw it. These rocks lie in the latitude of 55° S. and S. 75° E., distant twelve leagues from Cooper’s Isle.

The interval of clear weather was of very short duration, before we had as thick a fog as ever, attended with rain; on which we tacked in sixty fathoms’ water, and stood to the north. Thus we spent our time involved in a continual thick mist; and for aught we knew, surrounded by dangerous rocks. The shags and soundings were our best pilots; for after we had stood a few miles to the north, we got out of soundings, and saw no more shags. The succeeding day and night were spent in making short boards; and at eight o’clock on the 24th, judging ourselves not far from the rocks by some straggling shags which came about us, we sounded in sixty fathoms’ water, the bottom stones and broken shells. Soon after, we saw the rocks bearing S. S. W. 1/2 W., four miles distant, but still we did not see the Peak. It was, no doubt, beyond our horizon, which was limited to a short distance; and, indeed, we had but a transient sight of the other rocks, before they were again lost in the fog.

With a light air of wind at N., and a great swell from N. E., we were able to clear the rocks to the W.; and at four in the P. M., judging ourselves to be three or four leagues E. and W. of them, I steered S., being quite tired with cruizing about them in a thick fog; nor was it worth my while to spend any more time in waiting for clear weather, only for the sake of having a good sight of a few straggling rocks. At seven o’clock, we had at intervals a clear sky to the W., which gave us a sight of the mountains of the Isle of Georgia, bearing W. N. W., about eight leagues distant. At eight o’clock we steered S. E. by S., and at ten S. E. by E., with a fresh breeze at N., attended with a very thick fog; but we were, in some measure, acquainted with the sea over which we were running. The rocks above-mentioned obtained the name of Clerke’s Rocks, after my second officer, he being the first who saw them.

CHAP. VI.

PROCEEDINGS AFTER LEAVING THE ISLE OF GEORGIA, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF SANDWICH LAND; WITH SOME REASONS FOR THERE BEING LAND ABOUT THE SOUTH POLE.

On the 25th we steered E. S. E., with a fresh gale at N. N. E., attended with foggy weather, till towards the evening, when the sky becoming clear, we found the variation to be 9° 26ʹ E., being at this time in the latitude of 56° 16ʹ S., longitude 32° 9ʹ W.

Having continued to steer E. S. E., with a fine gale at N. N. W., till daylight next morning, on seeing no land to the E., I gave orders to steer S., being at this time in the latitude of 56° 33ʹ S., longitude 31° 10ʹ W. The weather continued clear, and gave us an opportunity to observe several distances of the sun and moon for the correcting our longitude, which at noon was 31° 4ʹ W., the latitude observed 57° 38ʹ S. We continued to steer to the S. till the 27th at noon, at which time we were in the latitude of 59° 46ʹ S., and had so thick a fog that we could not see a ship’s length. It being no longer safe to sail before the wind, as we were to expect soon to fall in with ice, I therefore hauled to the E., having a gentle breeze at N. N. E. Soon after, the fog clearing away, we resumed our course to the S. till four o’clock, when it returned again as thick as ever, and made it necessary for us to haul upon a wind.

I now reckoned we were in latitude 60° S., and farther I did not intend to go, unless I observed some certain signs of soon meeting with land; for it would not have been prudent in me to have spent my time in penetrating to the south, when it was at least as probable that a large tract of land might be found near Cape Circumcision. Besides, I was tired of these high southern latitudes, where nothing was to be found but ice and thick fogs. We had now a long hollow swell from the W., a strong indication that there was no land in that direction; so that I think I may venture to assert that the extensive coast, laid down in Mr. Dalrymple’s chart of the ocean between Africa and America, and the Gulph of Saint Sebastian, do not exist.

At seven o’clock in the evening, the fog receding from us a little, gave us a sight of an ice-island, several penguins and some snow peterels; we sounded, but found no ground at one hundred and forty fathoms. The fog soon returning, we spent the night in making boards over that space which we had, in some degree, made ourselves acquainted with in the day.

At eight in the morning of the 28th, we stood to the E., with a gentle gale at N.; the weather began to clear up, and we found the sea strewed with large and small ice; several penguins, snow peterels, and other birds were seen, and some whales. Soon after we had sun-shine, but the air was cold; the mercury in the thermometer stood generally at thirty-five, but at noon it was at 37°; the latitude by observation was 60° 4ʹ S., longitude 29° 23ʹ W.

We continued to stand to the E. till half-past two o’clock P. M., when we fell in, all at once, with a vast number of large ice-islands, and a sea strewed with loose ice. The weather too was become thick and hazy, attended with drizzling rain and sleet, which made it the more dangerous to stand in among the ice. For this reason we tacked and stood back to the W., with the wind at N. The ice-islands, which at this time surrounded us, were nearly all of equal height, and showed a flat even surface; but they were of various extent, some being two or three miles in circuit. The loose ice was what had broken from these isles.

Next morning, the wind falling and veering to S. W., we steered N. E., but this course was soon intercepted by numerous ice-islands; and, having but very little wind, we were obliged to steer such courses as carried us the clearest of them; so that we hardly made any advance, one way or other, during the whole day. Abundance of whales and penguins were about us all the time; and the weather fair, but dark and gloomy.

At midnight the wind began to freshen at N. N. E., with which we stood to N. W. till six in the morning of the 30th, when the wind veering to N. N. W., we tacked and stood to N. E., and soon after sailed through a good deal of loose ice, and passed two large islands. Except a short interval of clear weather about nine o’clock, it was continually foggy, with either sleet or snow. At noon we were, by our reckoning, in the latitude of 59° 30ʹ S., longitude 29° 24ʹ W.

Continuing to stand to N. E., with a fresh breeze at N. N. W., at two o’clock, we passed one of the largest ice-islands we had seen in the voyage, and some time after passed two others, which were much smaller. Weather still foggy, with sleet; and the wind continued at N. by W., with which we stood to N. E. over a sea strewed with ice.

At half an hour past six in the morning, as we were standing N. N. E. with the wind at W., the fog very fortunately clearing away a little, we discovered land a-head, three or four miles distant. On this we hauled the wind to the N., but finding we could not weather the land on this tack, we soon after tacked in one hundred and seventy-five fathoms water, three miles from the shore, and about half a league from some breakers. The weather then cleared up a little more, and gave us a tolerably good sight of the land. That which we had fallen in with proved three rocky islets of considerable height. The outermost terminated in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, and obtained the name of Freezeland Peak, after the man who first discovered it. Latitude 59° S., longitude 27° W. Behind this peak, that is to the east of it, appeared an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-clad summits were seen above the clouds. It extended from N. by E. to E. S. E. and I called it Cape Bristol, in honour of the noble family of Hervey. At the same time another elevated coast appeared in sight, bearing S. W. by S., and at noon it extended from S. E. to S. S. W., from four to eight leagues distant; at this time the observed latitude was 59° 13ʹ 30ʺ S., longitude 27° 45ʹ W. I called this land Southern Thule, because it is the most southern land that has ever yet been discovered. It shows a surface of vast height, and is every where covered with snow. Some thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol. It is more than probable that these two lands are connected, and that this space is a deep bay, which I called Forster’s Bay.

At one o’clock, finding that we could not weather Thule, we tacked and stood to the north, and at four, Freezeland Peak bore E., distant three or four leagues. Soon after it fell little wind, and we were left to the mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore. We sounded, but a line of two hundred fathoms found no bottom. At eight o’clock, the weather, which had been very hazy, clearing up, we saw Cape Bristol bearing E. S. E., and terminating in a point to the north, beyond which we could see no land. This discovery relieved us from the fear of being carried by the swell on the most horrible coast in the world, and we continued to stand to the north all night, with a light breeze at W.

On the 1st of February, at four o’clock in the morning, we got sight of a new coast, which at six o’clock bore N. 60° E. It proved a high promontory, which I named Cape Montagu, situated in latitude 58° 27ʹ S., longitude 26° 44ʹ W., and seven or eight leagues to the north of Cape Bristol. We saw land from space to space between them, which made me conclude that the whole was connected. I was sorry I could not determine this with greater certainty; but prudence would not permit me to venture near a coast, subject to thick fogs, on which there was no anchorage; where every port was blocked or filled up with ice; and the whole country, from the summits of the mountains, down to the very brink of the cliffs which terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with everlasting snow. The cliffs alone was all which was to be seen like land.

Several large islands lay upon the coast; one of which attracted my notice. It had a flat surface, was of considerable extent both in height and circuit, and had perpendicular sides, on which the waves of the sea had made no impression; by which I judged that it had not been long from land, and that it might have lately come out of some bay on the coast, where it had been formed.

At noon we were east and west of the northern part of Cape Montagu, distant about five leagues, and Freezeland Peak bore S. 16° E., distant twelve leagues; latitude observed 58° 25ʹ S. In the morning the variation was 10° 11ʹ E. At two in the afternoon, as we were standing to the north, with a light breeze at S. W. we saw land bearing N. 25ʹ E., distant fourteen leagues. Cape Montagu bore at this time, S. 66° E.; at eight it bore S. 40° E.; Cape Bristol, S. by E.; the new land extending from N. 40° to 52° E.; and we thought we saw land still more to the E., and beyond it.

Continuing to steer to the north all night, at six o’clock the next morning, a new land was seen bearing N. 12° E., about ten leagues distant. It appeared in two hummocks just peeping above the horizon; but we soon after lost sight of them; and having got the wind at N. N. E., a fresh breeze, we stood for the northernmost land we had seen the day before, which at this time bore E. S. E. We fetched in with it by ten o’clock, but could not weather it, and were obliged to tack three miles from the coast, which extended from E. by S. to S. E., and had much the appearance of being an island of about eight or ten leagues’ circuit. It shows a surface of considerable height, whose summit was lost in the clouds, and, like all the neighbouring lands, covered with a sheet of snow and ice, except on a projecting point on the north side, and two hills seen over this point, which probably might be two islands. These only were clear of snow, and seemed covered with a green turf. Some large ice-islands lay to the N. E., and some others to the S.

We stood off till noon, and then tacked for the land again, in order to see whether it was an island or no. The weather was now become very hazy, which soon turning to a thick fog, put a stop to discovery, and made it unsafe to stand for the shore; so that after having run the same distance in, as we had run off, we tacked and stood to N. W. for the land we had seen in the morning, which was yet at a considerable distance. Thus we were obliged to leave the other, under the supposition of its being an island, which I named Saunders, after my honourable friend Sir Charles. It is situated in the latitude of 57° 49ʹ S., longitude 26° 44ʹ W.; and N., distant thirteen leagues from Cape Montagu.

At six o’clock in the evening, the wind shifting to the W., we tacked, and stood to the N., and at eight the fog clearing away, gave us a sight of Saunders’s isle, extending from S. E. by S. to E. S. E. We were still in doubt if it were an island; for, at this time, land was seen bearing E. by S., which might, or might not be connected with it; it might also be the same that we had seen the preceding evening. But, be this as it may, it was now necessary to take a view of the land to the north before we proceeded any farther to the east. With this intention, we stood to the north, having a light breeze at W. by S., which, at two o’clock in the morning of the 3d, was succeeded by a calm that continued till eight, when we got the wind at E. by S., attended with hazy weather. At this time we saw the land we were looking for, and which proved to be two isles. The day on which they were discovered, was the occasion of calling them Candlemas isles; latitude 57° 11ʹ S., longitude 27° 6ʹ W. They are of no great extent, but of considerable height, and were covered with snow. A small rock was seen between them, and perhaps there may be more; for the weather was so hazy that we soon lost sight of the islands, and did not see them again till noon, at which time they bore W., distant three or four leagues.

As the wind kept veering to the S. we were obliged to stand to the N. E., in which route we met with several large ice-islands, loose ice, and many penguins; and, at midnight, came at once into water uncommonly white, which alarmed the officer of the watch so much that he tacked the ship instantly. Some thought it was a float of ice, others that it was shallow water; but as it proved neither, probably it was a shoal of fish.

We stood to the south till two o’clock next morning, when we resumed our course to the E., with a faint breeze at S. S. E., which having ended in a calm, at six, I took the opportunity of putting a boat in the water to try if there were any current; and the trial proved there was none. Some whales were playing about us, and abundance of penguins; a few of the latter were shot, and they proved to be of the same sort that we had seen among the ice before, and different both from those on Staten Land, and from those at the isle of Georgia. It is remarkable, that we had not seen a seal since we left that coast. At noon we were in the latitude of 56° 44ʹ S., longitude 25° 33ʹ W. At this time we got a breeze at E., with which we stood to the S., with a view of gaining the coast we had left; but at eight o’clock the wind shifted to the S., and made it necessary to tack and stand to the E; in which course we met with several ice-islands and some loose ice, the weather continuing hazy with snow and rain.

No penguins were seen on the 5th, which made me conjecture that we were leaving the land behind us, and that we had already seen its northern extremity. At noon we were in the latitude of 57° 8ʹ S., longitude 23° 34ʹ W., which was 3° of longitude to the east of Saunders’s isle. In the afternoon the wind shifted to the W., this enabled us to stretch to the S., and to get into the latitude of the land, that, if it took an east direction, we might again fall in with it.

We continued to steer to the S. and S. E. till next day at noon, at which time we were in the latitude of 58° 15ʹ S., longitude 21° 34ʹ W., and seeing neither land nor signs of any, I concluded that what we had seen, which I named Sandwich Land, was either a group of islands, or else a point of the continent; for I firmly believe that there is a track of land near the pole which is the source of most of the ice that is spread over this vast Southern Ocean. I also think it probable that it extends farthest to the north opposite the southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans, because ice was always found by us farther to the north in these oceans than any where else, which I judge could not be, if there were not land to the S.; I mean a land of considerable extent. For if we suppose that no such land exists, and that ice may be formed without it, it will follow of course that the cold ought to be every where nearly equal round the pole, as far as 70° or 60° of latitude, or so far as to be beyond the influence of any of the known continents; consequently we ought to see ice every where under the same parallel, or near it; and yet the contrary has been found. Very few ships have met with ice going round Cape Horn; and we saw but little below the sixtieth degree of latitude, in the Southern Pacific Ocean. Whereas in this ocean, between the meridian of 40° W. and 50° or 60° E., we found ice as far N. as 51°. Bouvet met with some in 48°; and others have seen it in a much lower latitude. It is true, however, that the greatest part of this southern continent (supposing there is one) must lie within the polar circle, where the sea is so pestered with ice that the land is thereby inaccessible. The risk one runs in exploring a coast, in these unknown and icy seas, is so very great, that I can be bold enough to say that no man will ever venture farther than I have done; and that the lands which may lie to the south will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow-storms, intense cold, and every other thing that can render navigation dangerous, must be encountered; and these difficulties are greatly heightened, by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country; a country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of the sun’s rays, but to lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. The ports which may be on the coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness; but if any should be so far open as to invite a ship into it, she would run a risk of being fixed there for ever, or of coming out in an ice-island. The islands and floats on the coast, the great falls from the ice-cliffs in the port, or a heavy snow storm attended with a sharp frost, would be equally fatal.

After such an explanation as this, the reader must not expect to find me much farther to the south. It was, however, not for want of inclination, but for other reasons. It would have been rashness in me to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in discovering and exploring a coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or geography, or indeed to any other science. Bouvet’s discovery was yet before us, the existence of which was to be cleared up; and besides all this, we were not now in a condition to undertake great things; nor indeed was there time, had we been ever so well provided.

These reasons induced me to alter the course to E., with a very strong gale at N., attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of snow. The quantity which lodged in our sails was so great, that we were frequently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it out of them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the weight. In the evening it ceased to snow; the weather cleared up; the wind backed to the W.; and we spent the night in making two short boards, under close-reefed top-sails and fore-sail.

At day-break on the 7th, we resumed our course to the E., with a very fresh gale at S. W. by W., attended by a high sea from the same direction. In the afternoon, being in the latitude of 58° 24ʹ S., longitude 16° 19ʹ W., the variation was 1° 52ʹ E. Only three ice-islands seen this day. At eight o’clock, shortened sail, and hauled the wind to the S. E. for the night, in which we had several showers of snow and sleet.

On the eighth, at day-light, we resumed our east course with a gentle breeze and fair weather. After sun-rise, being then in the latitude of 58° 30ʹ S., longitude 15° 14ʹ W.; the variation, by the mean results of two compasses, was 2° 43ʹ E. These observations were more to be depended on than those made the night before, there being much less sea now than then. In the afternoon, we passed three ice-islands. This night was spent as the preceding.

At six next morning, being in the latitude of 58° 27ʹ S., longitude 13° 4ʹ W., the variation was 26ʹ E., and in the afternoon, being in the same latitude, and about a quarter of a degree more to the E., it was 2ʹ W. Therefore this last situation must be in or near the line in which the compass has no variation. We had a calm the most part of the day. The weather fair and clear, excepting now and then a snow shower. The mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 40; whereas for several days before, it had been no higher than 36 or 38. We had several ice-islands in sight, but no one thing that could induce us to think that any land was in our neighbourhood. At eight in the evening, a breeze sprung up at S. E., with which we stood to N. E.

During the night the wind freshened and veered to south, which enabled us to steer east. The wind was attended with showers of sleet and snow till day-light, when the weather became fair, but piercing cold, so that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury in the thermometer was no higher than 34-1/2. At six o’clock in the morning, the variation was 23ʹ west, being then in the latitude of 58° 15ʹ S., longitude 11° 41ʹ W., and at six in the evening, being in the same latitude, and in the longitude of 9° 24ʹ W., it was 1° 51ʹ W. In the evening the wind abated; and during the night it was variable between south and west. Ice-islands continually in sight.

On the 11th, wind westerly, light airs attended with heavy showers of snow in the morning; but, as the day advanced, the weather became fair, clear, and serene. Still continuing to steer east, at noon we observed in latitude 58° 11ʹ, longitude at the same time 7° 55ʹ west. Thermometer 34-2/3. In the afternoon we had two hours’ calm, after which we had faint breezes between the N. E. and S. E.

At six o’clock in the morning of the 12th, being in the latitude of 58° 23ʹ S., longitude 6° 54ʹ W., the variation was 3° 23ʹ W. We had variable light airs next to a calm all this day, and the weather was fair and clear till towards the evening, when it became cloudy, with snow showers, and the air very cold. Ice-islands continually in sight; most of them small and breaking to pieces.

In the afternoon of the 13th the wind increased, the sky became clouded, and soon after we had a very heavy fall of snow, which continued till eight or nine o’clock in the evening, when the wind abating and veering to S. E., the sky cleared up, and we had a fair night, attended with so sharp a frost, that the water in all our vessels on deck was next morning covered with a sheet of ice. The mercury in the thermometer was as low as 29°, which is 3° below freezing, or rather 4; for we generally found the water freeze when the mercury stood at 33°.

Towards noon on the 14th, the wind veering to the south, increased to a very strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls, attended with snow. At intervals, between the squalls, the weather was fair and clear, but exceedingly cold. We continued to steer east, inclining a little to the north, and in the afternoon crossed the first meridian, or that of Greenwich, in the latitude of 57° 50ʹ S. At eight in the evening, we close-reefed the top-sails, took in the main-sail, and steered east, with a very hard gale at S. S. W., with a high sea from the same direction.

At day-break on the 15th, we set the main-sail, loosed a reef out of each top-sail, and with a very strong gale at S. W. and fair weather, steered E. N. E. till noon, at which time we were in the latitude of 56° 37ʹ S., longitude 4° 11ʹ east, when we pointed to the N. E., in order to get into the latitude of Cape Circumcision. Some large ice-islands were in sight, and the air was nearly as cold as on the preceding day. At eight o’clock in the evening, shortened sail, and at eleven hauled the wind to the N. W., not daring to stand on in the night, which was foggy, with snow-showers, and a smart frost.

At day-break on the 16th, we bore away N. E. with a light breeze at west, which, at noon, was succeeded by a calm and fair weather. Our latitude at this time was 55° 26ʹ S., longitude 5° 52ʹ east, in which situation we had a great swell from the southward, but no ice in sight. At one o’clock in the P. M., a breeze springing up at E. N. E., we stood to S. E. till six, then tacked, and stood to the north, under double-reefed top-sails and courses, having a very fresh gale, attended with snow and sleet, which fixed to the masts and rigging as it fell, and coated the whole with ice.

On the 17th the wind continued veering by little and little to the south, till midnight, when it fixed at S. W. Being at this time in the latitude of 54° 20ʹ S., longitude 6° 33ʹ east, I steered east, having a prodigious high sea from the south, which assured us no land was near in that direction.

In the morning of the 18th it ceased to snow; the weather became fair and clear; and we found the variation to be 13° 44ʹ west. At noon we were in the latitude of 54° 25ʹ, longitude 8° 46ʹ east. I thought this a good latitude to keep in, to look for Cape Circumcision; because, if the land had ever so little extent in the direction of north and south, we could not miss seeing it, as the northern point is said to lie in 54°. We had yet a great swell from the south, so that I was now well assured it could only be an island; and it was of no consequence which side we fell in with. In the evening Mr. Wales made several observations of the moon, and stars Regulus and Spica; the mean results, at four o’clock, when the observations were made, for finding the time by the watch, gave 9° 15ʹ 20ʺ east longitude. The watch at the same time gave 9° 36ʹ 45ʺ. Soon after the variation was found to be 13° 10ʹ west. It is nearly in this situation that Mr. Bouvet had 1° east. I cannot suppose that the variation has altered so much since that time; but rather think he had made some mistake in his observations. That there could be none in ours was certain, from the uniformity for some time past. Besides, we found 12° 8ʹ west, variation, nearly under this meridian, in January, 1773. During the night the wind veered round by the N. W. to N. N. E., and blew a fresh gale.

At eight in the morning of the 19th, we saw the appearance of land in the direction of E. by S. or that of our course; but it proved a mere fog-bank, and soon after dispersed. We continued to steer E. by S. and S. E. till seven o’clock in the evening, when, being in the latitude of 54° 42ʹ S., longitude 13° 3ʹ E., and the wind having veered to N. E., we tacked and stood to N. W. under close-reefed top-sails and courses; having a very strong gale, attended with snow showers.

At four o’clock next morning, being in the latitude of 54° 30ʹ S., longitude 12° 33ʹ E., we tacked, and stretched to N. E., with a fresh gale at S. W., attended with snow-showers and sleet. At noon, being in the latitude of 54° 8ʹ S., longitude 12° 59ʹ E., with a fresh gale at W. by N. and tolerably clear weather, we steered E. till ten o’clock in the evening, when we brought to, lest we might pass any land in the night, of which we however had not the least signs.

At day-break, having made sail, we bore away east, and at noon observed in latitude 54° 16ʹ S., longitude 16° 13ʹ E., which is 5° to the east of the longitude in which Cape Circumcision is said to lie; so that we began to think there was no such land in existence. I however continued to steer east, inclining a little to the south, till four o’clock in the afternoon of the next day, when we were in latitude of 54° 24ʹ S., longitude 19° 18ʹ E.

We had now run down thirteen degrees of longitude, in the very latitude assigned for Bouvet’s Land; I was therefore well assured that what he had seen could be nothing but an island of ice; for, if it had been land, it is hardly possible we could have missed it, though it were ever so small. Besides, from the time of leaving the southern lands, we had not met with the least signs of any other. But even suppose we had, it would have been no proof of the existence of Cape Circumcision; for I am well assured that neither seals, nor penguins, nor any of the oceanic birds, are indubitable signs of the vicinity of land. I will allow that they are found on the coasts of all these southern lands; but are they not also to be found in all parts of the southern ocean? There are, however, some oceanic or aquatic birds which point out the vicinity of land; especially shags, which seldom go out of sight of it; and gannets, boobies, and men of war birds, I believe, seldom go very far out to sea.

As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude from our route to the south, when we left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpose to proceed any further to the east under this parallel, knowing that no land could be there. But an opportunity now offering of clearing up some doubts of our having seen land farther to the south, I steered S. E. to get into the situation in which it was supposed to lie.

We continued this course till four o’clock the next morning, and then S. E. by E. and E. S. E. till eight in the evening, at which time we were in the latitude of 55° 25ʹ S., longitude 23° 22ʹ E., both deduced from observations made the same day; for, in the morning, the sky was clear at intervals, and afforded an opportunity to observe several distances of the sun and moon, which we had not been able to do for some time past, having had a constant succession of bad weather.

Having now run over the place where the land was supposed to lie, without seeing the least signs of any, it was no longer to be doubted but that the ice-islands had deceived us as well as Mr. Bouvet. The wind by this time having veered to the north, and increased to a perfect storm, attended as usual with snow and sleet, we handed the top-sails, and hauled up E. N. E. under the courses. During the night the wind abated, and veered to N. W., which enabled us to steer more to the north, having no business farther south.

CHAP. VII.

HEADS OF WHAT HAS BEEN DONE IN THE VOYAGE; WITH SOME CONJECTURES CONCERNING THE FORMATION OF ICE-ISLANDS; AND AN ACCOUNT OF OUR PROCEEDINGS TILL OUR ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

I had now made the circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, I had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many new ones, and left, I conceive, very little more to be done even in that part. Thus I flatter myself, that the intention of the voyage has, in every respect, been fully answered; the southern hemisphere sufficiently explored; and a final end put to the searching after a southern continent, which has, at times, ingrossed the attention of some of the maritime powers for near two centuries past, and been a favourite theory amongst the geographers of all ages.

That there may be a continent, or large tract of land, near the pole, I will not deny; on the contrary, I am of opinion there is; and it is probable that we have seen a part of it. The excessive cold, the many islands and vast floats of ice, all tend to prove that there must be land to the south; and for my persuasion that this southern land must lie, or extend, farthest to the north, opposite to the Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans, I have already assigned some reasons; to which I may add the greater degree of cold experienced by us in these seas, than in the Southern Pacific Ocean under the same parallels of latitude.

In this last ocean, the mercury in the thermometer seldom fell so low as the freezing point, till we were in 60° and upwards; whereas in the others it fell as low in the latitude of 54°. This was certainly owing to there being a greater quantity of ice, and to its extending farther to the north, in these two seas than in the South Pacific; and if ice be first formed at, or near land, of which I have no doubt, it will follow that the land also extends farther north.

The formation or coagulation of ice-islands, has not, to my knowledge, been thoroughly investigated. Some have supposed them to be formed by the freezing of the water at the mouths of large rivers, or great cataracts, where they accumulate till they are broken off by their own weight. My observations will not allow me to acquiesce in this opinion; because we never found any of the ice which we took up incorporated with earth, or any of its produce, as I think it must have been, had it been coagulated in land waters. It is a doubt with me, whether there be any rivers in these countries. It is certain, that we saw not a river, or stream of water, on all the coast of Georgia, nor on any of the southern lands. Nor did we ever see a stream of water run from any of the ice-islands. How are we then to suppose that there are large rivers? The valleys are covered, many fathoms deep, with everlasting snow; and, at the sea, they terminate in icy cliffs of vast height. It is here where the ice-islands are formed; not from streams of water, but from consolidated snow and sleet, which is almost continually falling or drifting down from the mountains, especially in the winter, when the frost must be intense. During that season, the ice-cliffs must so accumulate as to fill up all the bays, be they ever so large. This is a fact which cannot be doubted, as we have seen it so in summer. These cliffs accumulate by continual falls of snow, and what drifts from the mountains, till they are no longer able to support their own weight; and then large pieces break off, which we call ice-islands. Such as have a flat even surface, must be of the ice formed in the bays, and before the flat valleys; the others, which have a tapering unequal surface, must be formed on, or under, the side of a coast composed of pointed rocks and precipices, or some such uneven surface. For we cannot suppose that snow alone, as it falls, can form, on a plain surface, such as the sea, such a variety of high peaks and hills as we saw on many of the ice isles. It is certainly more reasonable to believe that they are formed on a coast whose surface is something similar to theirs. I have observed that all the ice-islands of any extent, and before they begin to break to pieces, are terminated by perpendicular cliffs of clear ice or frozen snow, always on one or more sides, but most generally all round. Many, and those of the largest size, which had a hilly and spiral surface, showed a perpendicular cliff or side from the summit of the highest peak down to its base. This to me was a convincing proof, that these, as well as the flat isles, must have broken off from substances like themselves, that is, from some large tract of ice.

When I consider the vast quantity of ice we saw, and the vicinity of the places to the pole where it is formed, and where the degrees of longitude are very small, I am led to believe that these ice-cliffs extend a good way into the sea, in some parts, especially in such as are sheltered from the violence of the winds. It may even be doubted if ever the wind is violent in the very high latitudes. And that the sea will freeze over, or the snow that falls upon it, which amounts to the same thing, we have instances in the northern hemisphere. The Baltic, the Gulph of St. Laurence, the Straits of Belle-Isle, and many other equally large seas, are frequently frozen over in winter. Nor is this at all extraordinary, for we have found the degree of cold at the surface of the sea, even in summer, to be two degrees below the freezing point; consequently nothing kept it from freezing but the salts it contains, and the agitation of its surface. Whenever this last ceaseth in winter, when the frost is set in, and there comes a fall of snow, it will freeze on the surface as it falls, and in a few days, or perhaps in one night, form such a sheet of ice as will not be easily broken up. Thus a foundation will be laid for it to accumulate to any thickness by falls of snow, without its being at all necessary for the sea water to freeze. It may be by this means these vast floats of low ice we find in the spring of the year are formed, and which, after they break up, are carried by the currents to the north. For, from all the observations I have been able to make, the currents every where, in the high latitudes, set to the N., or to the N. E. or N. W.; but we have very seldom found them considerable.

If this imperfect account of the formation of these extraordinary floating islands of ice, which is written wholly from my own observations, does not convey some useful hints to an abler pen, it will, however, convey some idea of the lands where they are formed. Lands doomed by nature to perpetual frigidness; never to feel the warmth of the sun’s rays; whose horrible and savage aspect I have not words to describe. Such are the lands we have discovered; what then may we expect those to be which lie still farther to the south? For we may reasonably suppose that we have seen the best, as lying most to the north. If any one should have resolution and perseverance to clear up this point by proceeding farther than I have done, I shall not envy him the honour of the discovery; but I will be bold to say, that the world will not be benefited by it.

I had, at this time, some thoughts of revisiting the place where the French discovery is said to lie. But then I considered that, if they had really made this discovery, the end would be as fully answered as if I had done it myself. We know it can only be an island; and if we may judge from the degree of cold we found in that latitude, it cannot be a fertile one. Besides, this would have kept me two months longer at sea, and in a tempestuous latitude, which we were not in a condition to struggle with. Our sails and rigging were so much worn, that something was giving way every hour; and we had nothing left, either to repair or replace them. Our provisions were in a state of decay, and consequently afforded little nourishment, and we had been a long time without refreshments. My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully have gone wherever I had thought proper to lead them; but I dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them, at a time when we had nothing left to remove it. I must say farther, that it would have been cruel in me to have continued the fatigues and hardships they were continually exposed to longer than was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they showed themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as being at all heightened by our separation from our consort the Adventure.

All these considerations induced me to lay aside looking for the French discoveries, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope; with a resolution, however, of looking for the isles of Denia and Marseveen, which are laid down in Dr. Halley’s variation chart in the latitude of 41-1/2° S., and about 4° of longitude to the east of the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope. With this view I steered N. E., with a hard gale at N. W. and thick weather; and on the 26th at noon, we saw the last ice-island, being at this time in the latitude of 52° 52ʹ S., longitude 26° 31ʹ E.

The wind abating and veering to the S., on the 1st of March, we steered W., in order to get farther from Mr. Bouvet’s track, which was but a few degrees to the east of us, being at this time in the latitude of 46° 44ʹ S., longitude 33° 20ʹ E., in which situation we found the variation to be 23° 36ʹ west. It is somewhat remarkable, that all the time we had northerly winds, which were regular and constant for several days, the weather was always thick and cloudy; but, as soon as they came S. of W. it cleared up, and was fine and pleasant. The barometer began to rise several days before this change happened; but whether on account of it, or our coming northward, cannot be determined.

The wind remained not long at south before it veered round by the N. E. to N. W., blowing fresh and by squalls, attended, as before, with rain and thick misty weather. We had some intervals of clear weather on the afternoon of the 3d, when we found the variation to be 22° 26ʹ W.; latitude at this time 45° 8ʹ S., longitude 30° 50ʹ E. The following night was very stormy; the wind blew from S. W. and in excessively heavy squalls. At short intervals between the squalls, the wind would fall almost to a calm, and then come on again with such fury, that neither our sails nor rigging could withstand it, several of the sails being split, and a middle stay-sail being wholly lost. The next morning the gale abated, and we repaired the damage we had sustained in the best manner we could.

On the 8th, being in the latitude of 41° 30ʹ S., longitude 26° 51ʹ E., the mercury in the thermometer rose to 61, and we found it necessary to put on lighter clothes. As the wind continued invariably fixed between N. W. and W., we took every advantage to get to the west, by tacking whenever it shifted any thing in our favour; but as we had a great swell against us, our tacks were rather disadvantageous. We daily saw albatrosses, peterels, and other oceanic birds; but not the least sign of land.

On the 11th, in the latitude of 40° 40ʹ S., longitude 23° 47ʹ E., the variation was 20° 48ʹ W. About noon the same day, the wind shifting suddenly from N. W. to S. W. caused the mercury in the thermometer to fall as suddenly from 62° to 52°; such was the different state of the air, between a northerly and southerly wind. The next day, having several hours calm, we put a boat in the water, and shot some albatrosses and peterels; which, at this time, were highly acceptable. We were now nearly in the situation where the isles which we were in search of, are said to lie; however, we saw nothing that could give us the least hope of finding them.

The calm continued till five o’clock of the next morning, when it was succeeded by a breeze at W. by S., with which we stood to N. N. W. and at noon observed in latitude 38° 51ʹ S. This was upwards of thirty miles more to the north than our log gave us; and the watch shewed that we had been set to the east also. If these differences did not arise from some strong current, I know not how to account for them. Very strong currents have been found on the African coast, between Madagascar and the Cape of Good Hope; but I never heard of their extending so far from the land; nor is it probable they do. I rather suppose that this current has no connection with that on the coast; and that we happened to fall into some stream which is neither lasting nor regular. But these are points which require much time to investigate, and must therefore be left to the industry of future navigators.

We were now two degrees to the north of the parallel in which the isles of Denia and Marseveen are said to lie. We had seen nothing to encourage us to persevere in looking after them; and it must have taken up some time longer to find them, or to prove their non-existence. Every one was impatient to get into port, and for good reasons; as for a long time we had had nothing but stale and salt provisions, for which every one on board had lost all relish. These reasons induced me to yield to the general wish, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope, being at this time in the latitude of 38° 38ʹ S., longitude 23° 37ʹ E.

The next day the observed latitude at noon was only seventeen miles to the north of that given by the log; so that we had either got out of the strength of the current, or it had ceased.

On the 15th the observed latitude at noon, together with the watch, shewed that we had had a strong current setting to the S. W. the contrary direction to what we had experienced on some of the preceding days, as hath been mentioned.

At day-light, on the 16th, we saw two sail in the N. W. quarter standing to the westward, and one of them shewing Dutch colours. At ten o’clock we tacked and stood to the west also, being at this time in the latitude of 35° 9ʹ S., longitude 22° 38ʹ E.

I now, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals they had kept; which were delivered to me accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. I also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where we had been, till they had their Lordships’ permission so to do. In the afternoon the wind veered to the west, and increased to a hard gale, which was of short duration; for, the next day, it fell, and at noon veered to S. E. At this time we were in the latitude of 34° 49ʹ S., longitude 22° E.; and, on sounding, found fifty-six fathoms water. In the evening we saw the land in the direction of E. N. E., about six leagues distant; and, during the forepart of the night, there was a great fire or light upon it.

At day-break on the 18th, we saw the land again, bearing N. N. W., six or seven leagues distant, and the depth of water forty-eight fathoms. At nine o’clock, having little or no wind, we hoisted out a boat and sent on board one of the two ships before mentioned, which were about two leagues from us; but we were too impatient after news to regard the distance. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at west, with which we stood to the south; and, presently, three sail more appeared in sight to windward, one of which shewed English colours.

At one P. M. the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder, Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch, very obligingly, offered us sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare. Our people were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the people of New Zealand; so that the story which we heard in Queen Charlotte’s Sound was now no longer a mystery.

We had light airs, next to a calm, till ten o’clock the next morning, when a breeze sprung up at west, and the English ship, which was to windward, bore down to us. She proved to be the True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China. As he did not intend to touch at the Cape, I put a letter on board him for the Secretary of the Admiralty.

The account which we had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed to us by this ship. We also got, from on board her, a parcel of old newspapers, which were new to us, and gave us some amusement; but these were the least favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company’s ships, he sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were very acceptable; and deserve from me this public acknowledgment. In the afternoon we parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea, and we in for the land; having a fresh gale at west, which split our fore top-sail in such a manner, that we were obliged to bring another to the yard. At six o’clock we tacked within four or five miles of the shore; and, as we judged, about five or six leagues to the east of Cape Aguilas. We stood off till midnight, when, the wind having veered round to the south, we tacked, and stood along-shore to the west. The wind kept veering more and more in our favour, and at last fixed at E. S. E., and blew, for some hours, a perfect hurricane.

As soon as the storm began to subside we made sail, and hauled in for the land. Next day at noon, the Table Mountain over the Cape Town bore N. E. by E., distant nine or ten leagues. By making use of this bearing and distance to reduce the longitude shewn by the watch to the Cape Town, the error was found to be no more than 18ʹ in longitude, which it was too far to the east. Indeed, the difference we found between it and the lunar observations, since we left New Zealand, had seldom exceeded half a degree, and always the same way.

The next morning, being with us Wednesday, the 22d, but with the people here Tuesday, the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay, where we found several Dutch ships; some French; and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East India Company’s ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom I sent a copy of the preceding parts of this journal, some charts, and other drawings, to the Admiralty.

Before we had well got to an anchor, I dispatched an officer to acquaint the governor with our arrival, and to request the necessary stores and refreshments, which were readily granted. As soon as the officer came back, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was immediately returned with an equal number.

I now learnt that the Adventure had called here, on her return; and I found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting me with the loss of his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte’s Sound. The captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my hands a complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our second and final separation, which I now lay before the public in the following chapter.

CHAP. VIII.

CAPTAIN FURNEAUX’S NARRATIVE OF HIS PROCEEDINGS, IN THE ADVENTURE, FROM THE TIME HE WAS SEPARATED FROM THE RESOLUTION, TO HIS ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND; INCLUDING LIEUTENANT BURNEY’S REPORT CONCERNING THE BOAT’S CREW, WHO WERE MURDERED BY THE INHABITANTS OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND.

After a passage of fourteen days from Amsterdam, we made the coast of New Zealand near the Table Cape, and stood along-shore till we came as far as Cape Turnagain. The wind then began to blow strong at west, with heavy squalls and rain, which split many of our sails, and blew us off the coast for three days; in which time we parted company with the Resolution, and never saw her afterwards.

On the 4th of November, we again got in shore, near Cape Palliser, and were visited by a number of the natives in their canoes, bringing a great quantity of cray-fish, which we bought of them for nails and Otaheite cloth. The next day it blew hard from W. N. W., which again drove us off the coast, and obliged us to bring to for two days; during which time it blew one continual gale of wind with heavy falls of sleet. By this time our decks were very leaky; our beds and bedding wet; and several of our people complaining of colds; so that we began to despair of ever getting into Charlotte Sound, or joining the Resolution.

On the 6th, being to the north of the Cape, the wind at S. W. and blowing strong, we bore away for some bay to complete our water and wood, being in great want of both; having been at the allowance of one quart of water for some days past; and even that pittance could not be come at, above six or seven days longer. We anchored in Tolaga Bay on the 9th, in latitude 38° 21ʹ S., longitude 178° 37ʹ E. It affords good riding with the wind westerly, and regular soundings from eleven to five fathoms, stiff muddy ground across the bay for about two miles. It is open from N. N. E. to E. S. E. It is to be observed, easterly winds seldom blow hard on this shore, but when they do, they throw in a great sea; so that if it were not for a great undertow, together with a large river that empties itself in the bottom of the bay, a ship would not be able to ride here. Wood and water are easily to be had, except when it blows hard easterly. The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte Sound, but more numerous, and seemed settled, having regular plantations of sweet potatoes, and other roots, which are very good; and they have plenty of cray and other fish, which we bought of them for nails, beads, and other trifles, at an easy rate. In one of their canoes we observed the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive; but, on examination, we found it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept as the relic of some deceased relation.

Having got about ten tons of water, and some wood, we sailed for Charlotte Sound on the 12th. We were no sooner out than the wind began to blow hard, dead on the shore, so that we could not clear the land on either tack. This obliged us to bear away again for the bay, where we anchored the next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of wind at E. by S. which threw in a very great sea. We now began to fear we should never join the Resolution; having reason to believe she was in Charlotte Sound, and by this time ready for sea. We soon found it was with great difficulty we could get any water, owing to the swell setting in so strong; at last, however, we were able to go on shore, and got both wood and water.

Whilst we lay here, we were employed about the rigging, which was much damaged by the constant gales of wind we had met with since we made the coast. We got the booms down on the decks, and having made the ship as snug as possible, sailed again on the 16th. After this we met with several gales of wind off the mouth of the Strait; and continued beating backwards and forwards till the 30th, when we were so fortunate as to get a favourable wind, which we took every advantage of, and at last got safe into our desired port. We saw nothing of the Resolution, and began to doubt her safety; but on going ashore, we discerned the place where she had erected her tents; and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden, observed these words cut out, “Look underneath.” There we dug, and soon found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on the 24th; and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the Straits to look for us.

We immediately set about getting the ship ready for sea as fast as possible; erected our tents; sent the cooper on shore to repair the casks; and began to unstow the hold, to get at the bread that was in butts; but on opening them found a great quantity of it entirely spoiled, and most part so damaged that we were obliged to fix our copper oven on shore to bake it over again, which undoubtedly delayed us a considerable time. Whilst we lay here, the inhabitants came on board as before, supplying us with fish, and other things of their own manufacture, which we bought of them for nails, &c. and appeared very friendly; though twice in the middle of the night, they came to the tent, with an intention to steal, but were discovered before they could get any thing into their possession.

On the 17th of December, having refitted the ship, completed our water and wood, and got every thing ready for sea, we sent our large cutter with Mr. Rowe, a midshipman, and the boat’s crew, to gather wild greens for the ship’s company; with orders to return that evening, as I intended to sail the next morning. But, on the boat’s not returning the same evening, nor the next morning, being under great uneasiness about her, I hoisted out the launch, and sent her, with the second lieutenant, Mr. Burney, manned with the boat’s crew and ten marines, in search of her. My orders to Mr. Burney were, first to look well into East Bay, and then to proceed to Grass Cove, the place to which Mr. Rowe had been sent; and if he heard nothing of the boat there, to go farther up the Sound, and come back along the west shore. As Mr. Rowe had left the ship an hour before the time proposed, and in a great hurry, I was strongly persuaded that his curiosity had carried him into East Bay, none in our ship having ever been there; or else, that some accident had happened to the boat, either by going a-drift through the boat-keeper’s negligence, or by being stove among the rocks. This was almost every body’s opinion; and on this supposition the carpenter’s mate was sent in the launch, with some sheets of tin. I had not the least suspicion that our people had received any injury from the natives; our boats having frequently been higher up, and worse provided. How much I was mistaken, too soon appeared; for Mr. Burney having returned about eleven o’clock the same night, made his report of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be better described than in his own words, which now follow.

“On the 18th we left the ship; and having a light breeze in our favour, we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. I examined every cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose. At half-past one, we stopped at a beach, on the left hand side going up East Bay, to boil some victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst we were cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running along a beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat and put off; and, in a short time, arrived at the head of this reach, where we saw an Indian settlement.

“As we drew near, some of the Indians came down on the rocks, and waved for us to be gone; but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of them double ones, and a great many people; though not so many as one might expect from the number of houses and size of the canoes. Leaving the boat’s crew to guard the boat, I stepped a-shore with the marines (the corporal and five men), and searched a good many of their houses; but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-beaten paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houses; but the people continuing friendly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our search. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of _Hepatoos_ (long spears), but seeing I looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N. N. W. a good mile, where it ended in a long sandy beach. I looked all round with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along.

“I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. I inquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, and searched the canoe, where we found one of the rullock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter’s crew. On examining this, and smelling to it, I found it was fresh. Mr. Fannin (the master) who was with me, supposed it was dog’s flesh, and I was of the same opinion; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon convinced by most horrid and undeniable proof.

“A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of fern-root, which serves them for bread. On farther search, we found more shoes and a hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our forecastle men, it being marked T. H. with an Otaheite tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people a little way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot covered with fresh earth about four feet diameter, where something had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass; and in the mean time I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set.

“On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one single and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated to a small hill within a ship’s length of the water-side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on the top of the high land beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down the hill the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a musquetoon to be fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be full of men lying down in the bottom; for they were all afloat, but nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill still kept hallooing and making signs for us to land. However, as soon as we got close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them much; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to run. One of them however, got a fall, and either lay there or crawled off on all fours. The other got clear without any apparent hurt. I then landed with the marines, and Mr. Fannin stayed to guard the boat.

“On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails.

“Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling alongside the canoes, we demolished three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the hill disappeared; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words, I suppose quarrelling whether or no they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark, I therefore just stepped out, and looked once more behind the beach to see if the cutter had been hauled up in the bushes; but seeing nothing of her, returned and put off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up the hill, and to have ventured with half (for half must have been left to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness.

“As we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the water-side, the middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but, by going in and out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What was still worse, it began to rain; our ammunition was more than half expended, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so many disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped for but revenge.

“Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling, we lay on our oars and listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed several times, but to little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing; and, indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect that, in all probability, every man of them must have been killed on the spot.”

Thus far Mr. Burney’s report; and, to complete the account of this tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention that the people in the cutter were Mr. Rowe; Mr. Woodhouse; Francis Murphy, quarter-master; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, forecastle-men; John Cavenaugh and Thomas Milton, belonging to the after-guard; and James Sevilley, the captain’s man, being ten in all. Most of these were of our very best seamen, the stoutest and most healthy people in the ship. Mr. Burney’s party brought on board two hands, one belonging to Mr. Rowe, known by a hurt he had received on it; the other to Thomas Hill, as before-mentioned; and the head of the captain’s servant. These, with more of the remains, were tied in a hammock and thrown over-board, with ballast and shot sufficient to sink it. None of their arms nor clothes were found, except part of a pair of trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being fellows.

I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these savages; for, the morning Mr. Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes, which came down and stayed all the forenoon in Ship Cove. It might probably happen from some quarrel which was decided on the spot; or the fairness of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being so incautious, and thinking themselves too secure. Another thing which encouraged the New Zealanders, was, they were sensible that a gun was not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that when discharged, they must be loaded before they could be used again, which time they knew how to take advantage of. After their success, I imagine there was a general meeting on the east side of the sound. The Indians of Shag Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was in one of the canoes, and by a long single canoe, which some of our people had seen four days before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr. Rowe in the cutter.

We were detained in the sound by contrary winds four days after this melancholy affair happened, during which time we saw none of the inhabitants. What is very remarkable, I had been several times up in the same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had not been occupied for several years; and yet, when Mr. Burney entered the cove, he was of opinion there could not be less than fifteen hundred or two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprized of his coming, they would have attacked him. From these considerations I thought it imprudent to send a boat up again; as we were convinced there was not the least probability of any of our people being alive.

On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the eastward to get clear of the Straits; which we accomplished the same evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds before we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S. S. E., till we got into the latitude of 56° S., without any thing remarkable happening, having a great swell from the southward. At this time the winds began to blow strong from the S. W., and the weather to be very cold; and as the ship was low and deep laden, the sea made a continual breach over her, which kept us always wet; and by her straining, very few of the people were dry in bed or on deck, having no shelter to keep the sea from them.

The birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean; except now and then, we saw a whale or porpoise, and sometimes a seal or two, and a few penguins. In the latitude of 58° S., longitude 213°[18] E., we fell in with some ice, and every day saw more or less, we then standing to the E. We found a very strong current setting to the eastward; for by the time we were abreast of Cape Horn, being in the latitude of 61° S., the ship was a-head of our account eight degrees. We were very little more than a month from Cape Palliser in New Zealand to Cape Horn, which is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and had continual westerly winds from S. W. to N. W., with a great sea following.

On opening some casks of peas and flour, that had been stowed on the coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; so thought it most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but first to stand into the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision. After being to the eastward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow so strong from the westward as usual, but came more from the north, which brought on thick foggy weather; so that for several days together we could not be able to get an observation, or see the least sign of the sun.

This weather lasted above a month, being then among a great many islands of ice, which kept us constantly on the look-out for fear of running foul of them, and, being a single ship, made us more attentive. By this time our people began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, which obliged me to haul to the northward to the latitude of 54° S., but we still continued to have the same sort of weather, though we had oftener an opportunity of obtaining observations for the latitude.

After getting into the latitude abovementioned, I steered to the east, in order if possible to find the land laid down by Bouvet. As we advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and dangerous; they being much smaller than they used to be; and the nights began to be dark.

On the third of March, being then in the latitude of 54° 4ʹ S., longitude 13° E., which is the latitude of Bouvet’s discovery, and half a degree to the eastward of it, and not seeing the least sign of land, either now or since we have been in this parallel, I gave over looking for it, and hauled away to the northward. As our last track to the southward was within a few degrees of Bouvet’s discovery, in the longitude assigned to it, and about three or four degrees to the southward, should there be any land thereabout, it must be a very inconsiderable island. But I believe it was nothing but ice; as we, in our first setting out, thought we had seen land several times, but it proved to be high islands of ice at the back of the large fields; and as it was thick foggy weather when Mr. Bouvet fell in with it, he might very easily mistake them for land.

On the 7th, being in the latitude of 48° 30ʹ S., longitude 14° 26ʹ E., saw two large islands of ice.

On the 17th, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 19th anchored in Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majesty’s ships Salisbury and Sea-horse. I saluted the Commodore with thirteen guns; and soon after, the garrison with the same number; the former returned the salute, as usual, with two guns less, and the latter with an equal number.

On the 24th, Sir Edward Hughes sailed with the Salisbury and Sea-horse for the East Indies; but I remained refitting the ship and refreshing my people till the 16th of April, when I sailed for England and on the 14th of July anchored at Spithead.

CHAP. IX.

TRANSACTIONS AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SOME DISCOVERIES MADE BY THE FRENCH; AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT ST. HELENA.

I now resume my own Journal, which Captain Furneaux’s interesting Narrative in the preceding chapter, had obliged me to suspend.

The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on shore and waited on the governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other principal officers, who received and treated us with the greatest politeness, contributing all in their power to make it agreeable. And, as there are few people more obliging to strangers than the Dutch in general at this place, and refreshments of all kinds are no where to be got in such abundance, we enjoyed some real repose, after the fatigues of a long voyage.

The good treatment which strangers meet with at the Cape of Good Hope, and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has introduced a custom not common any where else (at least I have no where seen it so strictly observed), which is, for all the officers who can be spared out of the ships to reside on shore. We followed this custom. Myself, the two Mr. Forsters, and Mr. Sparrman, took up our abode with Mr. Brandt, a gentleman well known to the English by his obliging readiness to serve them. My first care after my arrival, was to procure fresh-baked bread, fresh meat, greens, and wine, for those who remained on board; and, being provided every day during our stay with these articles, they were soon restored to their usual strength. We had only three men on board whom it was thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of their health; and for these I procured quarters, at the rate of thirty stivers, or half a crown, per day, for which they were provided with victuals, drink, and lodging.

We now went to work to supply all our defects. For this purpose, by permission, we erected a tent on shore, to which we sent our casks and sails to be repaired. We also struck the yards and topmasts, in order to overhaul the rigging, which we found in so bad a condition, that almost every thing, except the standing rigging, was obliged to be replaced with new; and that was purchased at a most exorbitant price. In the article of naval stores, the Dutch here, as well as at Batavia, take a shameful advantage of the distress of foreigners.

That our rigging, sails, &c. should be worn out, will not be wondered at, when it is known, that, during this circumnavigation of the globe, that is, from our leaving this place, to our return to it again, we had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues; an extent of voyage, nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and which, I apprehend, was never sailed by any ship in the same space of time before. And yet, in all this great run, which had been made in all latitudes between 9° and 71°, we sprung neither low-masts, top-mast, lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast shroud; which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must be owing to the good properties of our ship.

One of the French ships which were at anchor in the bay, was the Ajax Indiaman, bound to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He had been second in command with Captain Morion, who sailed from this place with two ships, in March, 1772, as hath been already mentioned. Instead of going from hence to America, as was said, he stood away for New Zealand; where, in the Bay of Isles, he and some of his people were killed by the inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned by the way of the Philippine Isles, with the two ships, to the Island of Mauritius. He seemed to be a man possessed of the true spirit of discovery, and to have abilities. In a very obliging manner, he communicated to me a chart, wherein were delineated not only his own discoveries, but also that of Captain Kerguelen, which I found laid down in the very situation where we searched for it; so that I can, by no means, conceive how both we and the Adventure missed it.

Resides this land, which Captain Crozet told us was a long but very narrow island, extending east and west, Captain Morion, in about the latitude of 48° S., and from 16° to 30° of longitude east of the Cape of Good Hope, discovered six islands which were high and barren. These, together with some islands lying between the line and the southern tropic in the Pacific Ocean, were the principal discoveries made in this voyage, the account of which, we were told, was ready for publication.

By Captain Crozet’s chart it appeared that a voyage had been made by the French across the South Pacific Ocean, in 1769, under the command of one Captain Surville; who, on condition of his attempting discoveries, had obtained leave to make a trading voyage to the coast of Peru. He fitted out, and took in a cargo, in some part of the East Indies; proceeded by way of the Philippine Isles; passed near New Britain; and discovered some land in the latitude of 10° S., longitude 158° E. to which he gave his own name. From hence he steered to the south; passed but a few degrees to the west of New Caledonia; fell in with New Zealand at its northern extremity, and put into Doubtful Bay, where it seems, he was, when I passed it, on my former voyage, in the Endeavour. From New Zealand, Captain Surville steered to the east, between the latitude of 35° and 41° south, until he arrived on the coast of America; where, in the port of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned.

These voyages of the French, though undertaken by private adventurers, have contributed something towards exploring the Southern Ocean. That of Captain Surville, clears up a mistake, which I was led into, in imagining the shoals off the west end of New Caledonia to extend to the west, as far as New Holland. It proves that there is an open sea in that space, and that we saw the N. W. extremity of that country.

From the same gentleman we learnt, that the ship which had been at Otaheite before our first arrival there this voyage, was from New Spain; and that, in her return, she had discovered some islands in the latitude of 32° S. and under the meridian of 130° W. Some other islands, said to be discovered by the Spaniards, appeared on this chart; but Captain Crozet seemed to think, they were inserted from no good authorities.

We were likewise informed of a later voyage undertaken by the French, under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended much to the disgrace of that commander.

While we lay in Table Bay, several foreign ships put in and out, bound to and from India, viz. English, French, Danes, Swedes, and three Spanish frigates, two of them going to, and one coming from, Manilla. It is but very lately that the Spanish ships have touched here; and these were the first that were allowed the same privileges as other European friendly nations.

On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loose, and we were obliged to unhang it, and take it on shore to repair. We were also delayed for want of calkers to calk the ship, which was absolutely necessary to be done, before we put to sea. At length I obtained two workmen from one of the Dutch ships; and the Dutton English East Indiaman, coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice, obliged me with two more; so that by the 26th of April, this work was finished; and having got on board all necessary stores, and a fresh supply of provisions and water, we took leave of the governor and other principal officers, and the next morning repaired on board. Soon after, the wind coming fair, we weighed and put to sea; as did also the Spanish frigate Juno, from Manilla, a Danish Indiaman, and the Dutton.

As soon as we were under sail, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns; which compliment was immediately returned with the same number. The Spanish frigate and Danish Indiaman, both saluted us as we passed them, and I returned each salute with an equal number of guns. When we were clear of the bay, the Danish ship steered for the East Indies, the Spanish frigate for Europe, and we and the Dutton for St. Helena.

Depending on the goodness of Mr. Kendall’s watch, I resolved to try to make the island, by a direct course. For the first six days, that is, till we got into the latitude of 27° S., longitude 11-1/2° W. of the Cape, the winds were southerly and S. E. After this we had variable light airs for two days; they were succeeded by a wind at S. E. which continued to the island, except a part of one day, when it was at N. E. In general, the wind blew faint all the passage, which made it longer than common.

At day-break, in the morning of the 15th of May, we saw the island of St. Helena, at the distance of fourteen leagues; and, at midnight, anchored in the road before the town, on the N. W. side of the island. At sunrise the next morning, the castle, and also the Dutton, saluted us, each with thirteen guns; on my landing, soon after, I was saluted by the castle, with the same number; and each of the salutes was returned by the ship.

Governor Skettowe, and the principal gentlemen of the island, received and treated me, during my stay, with the greatest politeness, by showing me every kind of civility in their power.

Whoever views St. Helena, in its present state, and can but conceive what it must have been originally, will not hastily charge the inhabitants with want of industry. Though, perhaps, they might apply it to more advantage, were more land appropriated to planting of corn, vegetables, roots, &c. instead of being laid out in pasture, which is the present mode. But this is not likely to happen, so long as the greatest part of it remains in the hands of the Company and their servants. Without industrious planters this island can never flourish, and be in a condition to supply the shipping with the necessary refreshments.

Within these three years a new church has been built; some other new buildings were in hand; a commodious landing-place for boats has been made; and several other improvements, which add both strength and beauty to the place.

During our stay here we finished some necessary repairs of the ship, which we had not time to do at the Cape. We also filled all our empty water casks; and the crew were served with fresh beef, purchased at fivepence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only refreshment to be had worth mentioning.

By a series of observations made at the Cape Town, and at James Fort, in St. Helena; at the former by Messrs. Mason and Dixon, and at the latter by Mr. Maskelyne, the present astronomer royal, the difference of longitude between these two places is 24° 12ʹ 15ʺ, only two miles more than Mr. Kendall’s watch made. The lunar observations made by Mr. Wales, before we arrived at the island, and after we left it, and reduced to it by the watch, gave 5° 51ʹ for the longitude of James Fort; which is only five miles more west, than it is placed by Mr. Maskelyne. In like manner, the longitude of the Cape Town was found within 5ʹ of the truth. I mention this, to show how near the longitude of places may be found by the lunar method, even at sea, with the assistance of a good watch.

CHAP. X.

PASSAGE FROM ST. HELENA TO THE WESTERN ISLANDS, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION AND FERNANDO NORONHO.

On the 21st, in the evening, I took leave of the governor, and repaired on board. Upon my leaving the shore, I was saluted with thirteen guns; and, upon my getting under sail, with the Dutton in company, I was saluted with thirteen more; both of which I returned.

After leaving St. Helena, the Dutton was ordered to steer N. W. by W. or N. W. by compass, in order to avoid falling in with Ascension; at which island, it was said, an illicit trade was carried on between the officers of the India Company’s ships, and some vessels from North America, who, of late years, had frequented the island, on pretence of fishing for whales, or catching turtle, when their real design was to wait the coming of the India ships. In order to prevent their homeward bound ship from falling in with these smugglers, and to put a stop to this illicit trade, the Dutton was ordered to steer the course above-mentioned till to the northward of Ascension. I kept company with this ship till the 24th, when, after putting a packet on board her for the Admiralty, we parted; she continuing her course to the N. W. and I steering for Ascension.

In the morning of the 28th, I made the island, and the same evening anchored in Cross Bay on the N. W. side, in ten fathoms’ water, the bottom a fine sand, and half a mile from the shore. The Cross Hill, so called on account of a cross, or flag-staff erected upon it, bore by compass S. 38° E.; and the two extreme points of the Bay extended from N. E. to S. W. We remained here till the evening of the 31st; and, notwithstanding we had several parties out every night, we got but twenty-four turtle, it being rather too late in the season; however, as they weighed between four or five hundred pounds each, we thought ourselves not ill off. We might have had a plentiful supply of fish in general; especially of that sort called old wives, I have no where seen such abundance; there were also cavalies, congor eels, and various other sorts; but the catching of any of these was not attended to, the object being turtle. There are abundance of goats, and aquatic birds, such as men-of-war and tropic birds, boobies, &c.

The island of Ascension is about ten miles in length, in the direction of N. W. and S. E. and about five or six in breadth. It shews a surface composed of barren hills and valleys, on the most of which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where we found nothing but stones and sand, or rather slags and ashes; an indubitable sign that the isle, at some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano, which has thrown up vast heaps of stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of stones we found a smooth even surface, composed of ashes and sand, and very good travelling upon it; but one may as easily walk over broken glass bottles as over the stones. If the foot deceives you, you are sure to be cut or lamed, which happened to some of our people. A high mountain, at the S. E. end of the isle, seems to be left in its original state, and to have escaped the general destruction. Its soil is a kind of white marl, which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and produceth a kind of purslain, spurg, and one or two grasses. On these the goats subsist; and it is at this part of the isle where they are to be found, as also land-crabs, which are said to be very good.

I was told, that about this part of the isle is some very good land, on which might be raised many necessary articles; and some have been at the trouble of sowing turnips and other useful vegetables. I was also told there is a fine spring in a valley which disjoins two hills on the top of the mountain above mentioned; besides great quantities of fresh water in holes in the rocks, which the person who gave me this information believed was collected from rains. But these supplies of water can only be of use to the traveller; or to those who may be so unfortunate as to be shipwrecked on the island; which seems to have been the fate of some not long ago, as appeared by the remains of a wreck we found on the N. E. side. By what we could judge, she seemed to have been a vessel of about one hundred and fifty tons burthen.

While we lay in the road, a sloop of about seventy tons burthen came to an anchor by us. She belonged to New York, which place she left in February; and having been to the coast of Guinea with a cargo of goods, was come here to take in turtle to carry to Barbadoes. This was the story which the master, whose name was Greves, was pleased to tell, and which may, in part, be true. But I believe the chief view of his coming here, was the expectation of meeting with some of the India ships. He had been in the island near a week, and had got on board twenty turtle. A sloop, belonging to Bermuda, had sailed but a few days before with one hundred and five on board, which was as many as she could take in; but having turned several more on the different sandy beaches, they had ripped open their bellies, taken out the eggs, and left the carcasses to putrify; an act as inhuman as injurious to those who came after them. Part of the account I have given of the interior parts of this island I received from Captain Greves, who seemed to be a sensible intelligent man, and had been all over it. He sailed in the morning of the same day we did.

Turtle, I am told, are to be found at this isle from January to June. The method of catching them is to have people upon the several sandy bays, to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is always in the night, and then to turn them on their backs, till there be an opportunity to take them off the next day. It was recommended to us to send a good many men to each beach, where they were to lie quiet till the turtle were ashore, and then rise and turn them at once. This method may be the best when the turtle are numerous; but when there are but few, three or four men are sufficient for the largest beach; and if they keep patroling it, close to the wash of the surf, during the night, by this method they will see all that come ashore, and cause less noise than if there were more of them. It was by this method we caught the most we got; and this is the method by which the Americans take them. Nothing is more certain than that all the turtle which are found about this island, come here for the sole purpose of laying their eggs; for we meet with none but females; and of all those which we caught, not one had any food worth mentioning in its stomach; a sure sign, in my opinion, that they must have been a long time without any; and this may be the reason why the flesh of them is not so good as some I have ate on the coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot where they fed.

The watch made 8° 45ʹ difference of longitude between St. Helena and Ascension; which added to 5° 49ʹ, the longitude of James Fort in St. Helena, gives 14° 34ʹ for the longitude of the Road of Ascension, or 14° 30ʹ for the middle of the island, the latitude of which is 8° S. The lunar observations made by Mr. Wales, and reduced to the same point of the island by the watch, gave 14° 28ʹ 30ʺ west longitude.

On the 31st of May we left Ascension, and steered to the northward, with a fine gale at S. E. by E. I had a great desire to visit the island of St. Matthew, to settle its situation; but as I found the winds would not let me fetch it, I steered for the island of Fernando de Noronho, on the coast of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude, as I could not find this had yet been done. Perhaps I should have performed a more acceptable service to navigation, if I had gone in search of the island of St. Paul, and those shoals which are said to lie near the equator, and about the meridian of 20° west; as neither their situation nor existence are well known. The truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the passage in searching for what I was not sure to find; nor was I willing to give up every object, which might tend to the improvement of navigation or geography, for the sake of getting home a week or a fortnight sooner. It is but seldom that opportunities of this kind offer; and when they do, they are too often neglected.

In our passage to Fernando de Noronho, we had steady fresh gales between the S. E. and E. S. E. attended with fair and clear weather; and as we had the advantage of the moon, a day or night did not pass without making lunar observations for the determining our longitude. In this run, the variation of the compass gradually decreased from 11° west, which it was at Ascension, to 1° west, which we found off Fernando de Noronho. This was the mean result of two compasses, one of which gave 1° 37ʹ, and the other 23ʹ west.

On the 9th of June, at noon, we made the island of Fernando de Noronho, bearing S. W. by W. 1/2 W., distant six or seven leagues, as we afterwards found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. As we drew near the S. E. part of the isle, we perceived several unconnected sunken rocks lying near a league from the shore, on which the sea broke in a great surf. After standing very near these rocks, we hoisted our colours, and then bore up round the north end of the isle, or rather round a group of little islets; for we could see that the land was divided by narrow channels. There is a strong fort on the one next the main island, where there are several others; all of which seemed to have every advantage that nature can give them, and they are so disposed as wholly to command all the anchoring and landing-places about the island. We continued to steer round the northern point, till the sandy beaches (before which is the road for shipping) began to appear, and the forts and the peaked hills were open to the westward of the said point. At this time, on a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Portuguese colours were displayed, and the example was followed by all the other forts. As the purpose for which I made the island was now answered, I had no intention to anchor; and therefore, after firing a gun to leeward, we made sail and stood away to the northward, with a fine fresh gale at E. S. E. The peaked hill or church tower bore south, 27° west, distant about four or five miles; and from this point of view it leans, or over-hangs, to the east. This hill is nearly in the middle of the island, which no where exceeds two leagues in extent, and shows a hilly unequal surface, mostly covered with wood and herbage.

Ulloa says, “This island hath two harbours, capable of receiving ships of the greatest burden; one is on the north side, and the other on the N. W. The former is, in every respect, the principal, both for shelter and capacity, and the goodness of its bottom; but both are exposed to the north and west, though these winds, particularly the north, are periodical, and of no long continuance.” He further says, that you anchor in the north harbour (which is no more than what I would call a road) in thirteen fathoms’ water, one third of a league from shore, bottom of fine sand; the peaked hill above mentioned bearing S. W. 3° southerly.[19]

This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east winds. One of my seamen had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put in at this isle in her way out, in 1770. They were very sickly, and in want of refreshments and water. The Portuguese supplied them with some buffaloes and fowls; and they watered behind one of the beaches in a little pool, which was hardly big enough to dip a bucket in. By reducing the observed latitude at noon to the peaked hill, its latitude will be 3° 53ʹ south; and its longitude, by the watch, carried on from St. Helena, is 32° 34ʹ west; and by observations of the sun and moon, made before and after we made the isle, and reduced to it by the watch, 32° 44ʹ 30ʺ west. This was the mean result of my observations. The results of those made by Mr. Wales, which were more numerous, gave 32° 23ʹ. The mean of the two will be pretty near the watch, and probably nearest the truth. By knowing the longitude of this isle, we are able to determine that of the adjacent east coast of Brazil; which, according to the modern charts, lies about sixty or seventy leagues more to the west. We might very safely have trusted to these charts, especially the Variation Chart for 1744, and Mr. Dalrymple’s of the Southern Atlantic Ocean.[20]

On the 11th, at three o’clock in the afternoon, we crossed the equator in the longitude of 32° 14ʹ west. We had fresh gales at S. S. E., blowing in squalls, attended by showers of rain, that continued at certain intervals, till noon the next day, after which we had twenty-four hours’ fair weather.

At noon, on the 13th, being in the latitude of 3° 49ʹ north, longitude 31° 47ʹ west, the wind became variable, between the N. E. and south; and we had light airs and squalls by turns, attended by hard showers of rain, and for the most part dark gloomy weather, which continued till the evening of the 15th, when in the latitude of 5° 47ʹ north, longitude 31° west, we had three calm days, in which time we did not advance above ten or twelve leagues to the north. We had fair weather and rain by turns; the sky, for the most part, being obscured, and sometimes by heavy dense clouds which broke in excessive hard showers.

At seven o’clock in the evening on the 18th, the calm was succeeded by a breeze at east, which, the next day, increasing and veering to and fixing at N. E., we stretched to N. W. with our tacks on board. We made no doubt that we had now got the N. E. trade wind, as it was attended with fair weather, except now and then some light showers of rain; and, as we advanced to the north, the wind increased and blew a fresh top-gallant gale.

On the 21st, I ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper, which held about sixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at four o’clock in the morning, and at six the still began to run. It was continued till six o’clock in the evening; in which time we obtained thirty-two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one bushel and a half of coals; which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was necessary to have boiled the ship’s company’s victuals only; but the expence of fuel was no object with me. The victuals were dressed in the small copper, the other being applied wholly to the still; and every method was made use of to obtain from it the greatest quantity of fresh water possible, as this was my sole motive for setting it to work. The mercury in the thermometer at noon was at eighty-four and a half, and higher it is seldom found at sea. Had it been lower, more water, under the same circumstances, would undoubtedly have been produced; for the colder the air is, the cooler you can keep the still, which will condense the steam the faster. Upon the whole, this is an useful invention; but I would advise no man to trust wholly to it. For although you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as much water as will support life, you cannot, with all your efforts, obtain sufficient to support health, in hot climates especially, where it is the most wanting; for I am well convinced, that nothing contributes more to the health of seamen, than having plenty of water.

The wind now remained invariably fixed at N. E. and E. N. E. and blew fresh with squalls, attended with showers of rain, and the sky for the most part cloudy. On the 25th, in the latitude of 16° 12ʹ north, longitude 37° 20ʹ west, seeing a ship to windward steering down upon us, we shortened sail in order to speak with her; but finding she was Dutch by her colours, we made sail again and left her to pursue her course, which we supposed was to some of the Dutch settlements in the West Indies. In the latitude of 20° north, longitude 39° 45ʹ west, the wind began to veer to E. by N. and E.; but the weather remained the same; that is, we continued to have it clear and cloudy by turns, with light squalls and showers. Our track was between N. W. by N. and N. N. W. till noon on the 28th, after which our course made good was N. by W., being at this time in the latitude of 21° 21ʹ north, longitude 40° 6ʹ west. Afterwards, the wind began to blow a little more steady, and was attended with fair and clear weather. At two o’clock in the morning of the 30th, being in the latitude of 24° 20ʹ north, longitude 40° 47ʹ west, a ship, steering to the westward, passed us within hale. We judged her to be English, as they answered us in that language; but we could not understand what they said, and they were presently out of sight.

In the latitude of 29° 30ʹ, longitude 41° 30ʹ, the wind slackened and veered more to the S. E. We now began to see some of that sea-plant, which is commonly called gulph-weed, from a supposition that it comes from the Gulph of Florida. Indeed, for aught I know to the contrary, it may be a fact; but it seems not necessary, as it is certainly a plant which vegetates at sea. We continued to see it, but always in small pieces, till we reached the latitude 36°, longitude 39° west, beyond which situation no more appeared.

On the 5th of July, in the latitude of 32° 31ʹ 30ʺ north, longitude 40° 29ʹ west, the wind veered to the east, and blew very faint; the next day it was calm; the two following days we had variable light airs and calms by turns; and, at length, on the 9th, having fixed at S. S. W., it increased to a fresh gale, with which we steered first N. E. and then E. N. E. with a view of making some of the Azores, or Western Isles. On the 11th, in the latitude of 36° 45ʹ north, longitude 36° 45ʹ west, we saw a sail which was steering to the west; and the next day we saw three more.

CHAP. XI.

ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT THE ISLAND OF FAYAL, A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE, AND THE RETURN OF THE RESOLUTION TO ENGLAND.

At five o’clock in the evening of the 13th, we made the island of Fayal, one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico, under which we spent the night making short boards. At day break, the next morning, we bore away for the bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where, at eight o’clock, we anchored in twenty fathoms water, a clean sandy bottom, and something more than half a mile from the shore. Here we moored N. E. and S. W., being directed so to do by the master of the port, who came on board before we dropped anchor. When moored, the S. W. point of the bay bore S. 16° W., and the N. E. point N. 33° E.; the church at the N. E. end of the town N. 38° W.; the west point of St. George’s Island N. 42° E., distant eight leagues; and the Isle of Pico extending from N. 74° E. to S. 46° E. distance four or five miles.

We found in the bay, the Pourvoyeur, a large French frigate, an American sloop, and a brig belonging to the place. She had come last from the river Amazon, where she took in a cargo of provisions for the Cape Verde Islands; but, not being able to find them, she steered for this place, where she anchored about half an hour before us.

As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable us to fix, with some degree of certainty, the longitude of these islands, the moment we anchored, I sent an officer to wait on the English consul, and to notify our arrival to the Governor, requesting his permission for Mr. Wales to make observations on shore, for the purpose above-mentioned. Mr. Dent, who acted as consul, in the absence of Mr. Gathorne, not only procured this permission, but accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden, to set up his instruments; so that he was enabled to observe equal altitudes the same day.

We were not more obliged to Mr. Dent for the very friendly readiness he showed, in procuring us this and every other thing we wanted, than for the very liberal and hospitable entertainment we met with at his house, which was open to accommodate us, both night and day.

During our stay, the ship’s company was served with fresh beef; and we took on board about fifteen tons of water, which we brought off in the country boats, at the rate of about three shillings per ton. Ships are allowed to water with their own boats, but the many inconveniences attending it more than overbalance the expense of hiring shore-boats which is the most general custom.

Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such as beef, vegetables, and fruit; and hogs, sheep, and poultry, for sea-stock, at a pretty reasonable price; but I do not know that any sea-provisions are to be had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the sheep are small, and wretchedly poor.

The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which they supply Pico, and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa de Horta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town, and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore, from the one to the other. But these works are suffered to go to decay, and serve more for show than strength. They heighten the prospect of the city, which makes a fine appearance from the road; but, if we except the Jesuits’ College, the monasteries and churches, there is not another building that has any thing to recommend it, either outside or in. There is not a glass window in the place, except what are in the churches, and in a country-house, which lately belonged to the English consul; all the others being latticed, which, to an Englishman, makes them look like prisons.

This little city, like all others belonging to the Portuguese, is crowded with religious buildings; there being no less than three convents of men, and two of women; and eight churches, including those belonging to the convents, and the one in the Jesuits’ college. The college is a fine structure, and is seated on an elevation in the pleasantest part of the city. Since the expulsion of that order, it has been suffered to go to decay, and will probably, in a few years, be no better than a heap of ruins.

Fayal, although the most noted for wine, does not raise sufficient for its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where there is no road for shipping; but being brought to De Horta, and from thence shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal wine.

The bay, or road of Fayal, is situated at the east end of the isle, before the Villa de Horta, and facing the west end of Pico. It is two miles broad, and three quarters of a mile deep, and hath a semi-circular form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten, and even six fathoms, a sandy bottom; except near the shore, and particularly near the S. W. head, off which the bottom is rocky, also without the line, which joins the two points of the bay, so that it is not safe to anchor far out. The bearing before mentioned, taken when at anchor, will direct any one to the best ground. It is by no means a bad road, but the winds most to be apprehended, are those which blow from between the S. S. W. and S. E.; the former is not so dangerous as the latter, because, with it, you can always get to sea. Besides this road, there is a small cove round the S. W. point, called Porto Piere, in which, I am told, a ship or two may lie in tolerable safety, and where they sometimes heave small vessels down.

A Portuguese captain told me, that about half a league from the road, in the direction of S. E., in a line between it and the south side of Pico, lies a sunken rock, over which is twenty-two feet water, and on which the sea breaks in hard gales from the south. He also assured me, that of all the shoals that are laid down in our charts and pilot-books about these isles, not one has any existence but the one between the islands of St. Michael and St. Mary, called Hormingan.—This account may be believed, without relying entirely upon it. He further informed me, that it is forty-five leagues from Fayal to the island of Flores; and that there runs a strong tide between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting to the N. E. and the ebb to the S. W., but that out at sea, the direction is east and west. Mr. Wales having observed the times of high and low water, by the shore, concluded that it must be high water at the full and change about twelve o’clock, and the water riseth about four or five feet.

The distance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by Mr. Rebiers, lieutenant of the French frigate, who told me, that, after being by estimation two leagues due south of Flores, they made forty-four leagues, on a S. E. by E., course by compass, to St. Catherine’s Point, on Fayal.

I found the latitude of the } 38° 31ʹ 55ʺ N. ship at anchor in the bay }

By a mean of seventeen sets } of lunar observations, taken} before we arrived, } and reduced to the bay by } 28 24 30 W. the watch, the longitude } was made }

By a mean of six sets after } leaving it, and reduced } 28 53 22 back by the watch } Longitude by observation 28 38 56 ---------------- Ditto, by the watch: 28 55 45 Error of the watch on our } -- 16 26-1/2 arrival at Portsmouth } ---------------- True longitude by the watch 28 39 18-1/2 ----------------

I found the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, taken by different compasses on board the ship, to agree very well with the like observations made by Mr. Wales on shore; and yet the variation thus found, is greater by 5°, than we found it to be at sea; for the azimuths taken on board, the evening before we came into the bay, gave no more than 16° 18ʹ west variation, and the evening after we came out, 17° 33ʹ west.

I shall now give some account of the variation, as observed in our run from the Island of Fernando De Noronho, to Fayal. The least variation we found was 37ʹ W., which was the day after we left Fernando De Noronho, and in the latitude of 33ʹ S., longitude 32° 16ʹ W. The next day, being nearly in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 1° 25ʹ N. it was 1° 23ʹ west; and we did not find it increase till we got into the latitude of 5° N., longitude 31° west. After this our compasses gave different variations, viz. from 3° 57ʹ to 5° 11ʹ W. till we arrived in the latitude of 26° 44ʹ north, longitude 41° west, when we found 6° west. It then increased gradually, so that in the latitude of 35° N. longitude 40° W., it was 10° 24ʹ W.; in the latitude of 38° 12ʹ N., longitude 32-1/2° W., it was 14° 47ʹ; and in sight of Fayal 16° 18ʹ W., as mentioned above.

Having left the bay at four in the morning of the 19th, I steered for the west end of St. George’s Island. As soon as we had passed it, I steered E. 1/2 S. for the Island of Tercera; and after having run thirteen leagues, we were not more than one league from the west end. I now edged away for the north side, with a view of ranging the coast to the eastern point, in order to ascertain the length of the island; but the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, I gave up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for England.

On the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning, we anchored at Spithead; and the same day, I landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London, in company with Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and Hodges.

Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in which time, and under all changes of climate, I lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, at the conclusion of this journal, to enumerate the several causes to which, under the care of Providence, I conceive, this uncommon good state of health experienced by my people was owing.

In the Introduction, mention has been made of the extraordinary attention paid by the Admiralty, in causing such articles to be put on board as, either from experience or suggestion, it was judged would tend to preserve the health of the seamen. I shall not trespass upon the reader’s time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were found the most useful.

We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made _Sweet Wort_. To such of the men as showed the least symptoms of the scurvy; and also to such as were thought to be threatened with that disorder, this was given from one to two or three pints a day each man; or in such proportion as the surgeon found necessary, which sometimes amounted to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best antiscorbutic sea medicines yet discovered: and, if used in time, will, with proper attention to other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from making any great progress for a considerable while. But I am not altogether of opinion that it will cure it at sea.

_Sour Krout_, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a wholesome vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic; and it spoils not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man when at sea, twice a week or oftener, as was thought necessary.

_Portable Broth_ was another great article, of which we had a large supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion as circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their pease, three days in the week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every morning for breakfast; and also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several nourishing and wholesome messes, and was the means of making the people eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwise have done.

_Rob of Lemon_ and _Orange_ is an antiscorbutic we were not without. The surgeon made use of it in many cases, with great success.

Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with _Sugar_ in the room of _Oil_, and with _Wheat_ for a part of our _Oatmeal_; and were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very good antiscorbutic; whereas oil, (such as the navy is usually supplied with,) I am of opinion, has the contrary effect.

But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless supported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years’ experience, together with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis, and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan whereby all was to be governed.

The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry cloaths to shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to expose them as little to wet weather as possible.

Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, cloaths, &c. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired with fires; and when this could not be done, she was smoked with gunpowder mixed with vinegar or water. I had also frequently a fire made in an iron pot at the bottom of the well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great attention cannot be paid; the least neglect occasions a putrid and disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove.

Proper attention was paid to the ship’s coppers, so that they were kept constantly clean.

The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy.

I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we did not want it. Because I look upon fresh water from the shore, to be more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on board a ship. Of this essential article, we were never at an allowance, but had always plenty for every necessary purpose. Navigators in general cannot, indeed, expect, nor would they wish to meet with, such advantages in this respect, as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into very high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers inseparable from that situation, were, in some degree, compensated by the singular felicity we enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an ocean strewed with ice.

We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty of nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; and to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority; but the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind soon became so obvious, that I had little occasion to recommend the one or to exert the other.

It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events, nor been diversified by sudden transitions of fortune; though my relation of it has been more employed in tracing our course by sea, than in recording our operations on shore; this, perhaps, is a circumstance from which the curious reader may infer, that the purposes for which we were sent into the southern hemisphere were diligently and effectually pursued. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better enabled to gratify curiosity; but we hope our not having found it, after all our persevering searches, will leave less room for future speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored.

But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving health amongst a numerous ship’s company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of philosophers.

A

VOCABULARY

OF THE

LANGUAGE

OF THE

_SOCIETY ISLES_.

DIRECTIONS

FOR THE

PRONUNCIATION OF THE VOCABULARY.

As all nations who are acquainted with the method of communicating their ideas by characters (which represent the sound that conveys the idea), have some particular method of managing or pronouncing the sounds represented by such characters, this forms a very essential article in the constitution of the language of any particular nation, and must therefore be understood before we can make any progress in learning, or be able to converse in it. But as this is very complex and tedious to a beginner, by reason of the great variety of powers the characters of letters are endued with under different circumstances, it would seem necessary, at least in languages which have never before appeared in writing, to lessen the number of these varieties, by restraining the different sounds, and always representing the same simple ones by the same character; and this is no less necessary in the English than any other language, as this variety of powers is very frequent, and without being taken notice of in the following Vocabulary, might render it entirely unintelligible. As the vowels are the regulation of all sounds, it is these only that need be noticed, and the powers allotted to each of these in the Vocabulary is subjoined.

_A_ in the English language is used to represent two different simple sounds, as in the word Arabia, where the first and last have a different power from the second. In the Vocabulary this letter must always have the power, or be pronounced like the first and last in Arabia. The other power or sound of the second _a_, is always represented in the Vocabulary by _a_ and _i_, printed in Italics thus, _ai_.

_E_ has likewise two powers, or it is used to represent two simple sounds, as in the words Eloquence, Bred, Led, &c. and it may be said to have a third power, as in the words Then, When, &c. In the first case, this letter is only used at the beginning of words, and wherever it is met with in any other place in the words of the Vocabulary, it is used as in the second case: but never as in the third example; for this power or sound is every where expressed by the _a_ and _i_ before mentioned, printed in Italics.

_I_ is used to express different simple sounds, as in the words Indolence, Iron, and Imitation. In the Vocabulary it is never used as in the first case, but in the middle of words; it is never used as in the second example, for that sound is always represented by _y_, nor is it used as in the last case, that sound being always represented by two _ee_s, printed in Italics in this manner, _ee_.

_O_ never alters in the pronunciation, _i. e._ in this Vocabulary, of a simple sound, but is often used in this manner, _oo_, and sounds as in Good, Stood, &c.

_U_ alters, or is used to express different simple sounds, as in Unity, or Umbrage. Here the letters _e_ and _u_, printed in Italics _eu_, are used to express its power as in the first example, and it always retains the second power, wherever it is met with.

_Y_ is used to express different sounds, as in My, By, &c. &c. and in Daily, Fairly, &c. Wherever it is met with in the middle or end (_i. e._ any where but at the beginning) of a word, it is to be used as in the first example; but is never to be found as in the second, for that sound or power is always represented by the Italic letter _e_. It has also a third power, as in the words Yes, Yell, &c. which is retained every where in the Vocabulary, at least at the beginning of words, or when it goes before another vowel, unless directed to be sounded separately by a mark over it, as thus, ÿa.

Unless in a few instances, these powers of the vowels are used throughout the Vocabulary; but, to make the pronunciation still less liable to change or variation, a few marks are added to the words as follows:

This mark: as öa, means that these letters are to be expressed singly.

The letters in Italic, as _ee_ or _oo_, make but one simple sound.

When a particular stress is laid on any part of a word in the pronunciation, an accent is placed over that letter where it begins, or rather between that and the preceding one.

It often happens that a word is compounded as it were of two, or in some cases the same word or syllable is repeated. In these circumstances, a comma is placed under them at this division, where a rest or small space of time is left before you proceed to pronounce the other part, but it must not be imagined that this is a full stop.

_Examples in all these Cases._

Röa, Great, long, distant. E’r_ee_ma, Five. Ry’po_ee_a, Fog _or mist_. E’h_oo_ra, _To_ invert, _or turn upside down_. Par_oo_, r_oo_, _A_ partition, _division, or screen_.

A

VOCABULARY, &c.

A

To abide, _or remain_ Ete´_ei_.

_An_ Abode, _or place of residence_ Noho´ra.

Above, _not below_ N_ee_a, s. Tién_ee_a.

_An_ Abcess Fe´fe.

Action, _opposed to rest_, Ta´er_ee_.

Adhesive, _of an adhesive or sticking quality_ _Oo_´p_ee_re.

Adjoining, _or contiguous to_ E´p_ee_iho.

Admiration, _an interjection of_ A´w_ai_, s. A´w_ai_ to _Pee_r_ee_-_ai_.

_An_ Adulterer, _or one that vexes a married T_ee_ho t_ee_ho, s. woman_ Teeho teeho, ta´rar.

_To_ agitate, _or shake a thing, as water, &c._ E_oo_a´w_ai_.

Aliment, _or food of any kind_ Maa.

Alive, _that is not dead_ Waura.

All, _the whole, not a part_ A´ma_oo_.

Alone, _by one’s self_ Ota´h_oi_.

Anger, _or to be angry_ Warrad_ee_, s. R_ee_d_ee_.

_To_ angle, _or fish_ E´h_oo_tee.

_The_ Ankle Momöa.

_The inner_ Ankle A´t_oo_a, ewy.

Answer, _an answer to a question_ Oo´m_ai_a.

Approbation, _or consent_, Mad_oo_ho´why.

_Punctuated_ Arches _on the hips_ E´var´re.

_The_ Arm R_ee_ma.

_The_ Armpit E´e.

_An_ Arrow E´_oo_me.

Arrow, _the body of an arrow or reed_ O´wha.

_The point of an_ Arrow To´_ai_, s. O´möa.

Ashamed, _to be ashamed or confused_ Ama, s. He´ama.

Ashore, _or on shore_ Te Euta.

_To_ ask _for a thing_ Ho´my, s. Ha´py my.

Asperity, _roughness_ Tarra, Tarra.

_An_ Assassin, _murderer, or rather man-killer, soldier or warrior_ Taata, töa.

_An_ Assembly, _or meeting_ Ete_ou_´r_oo_a.

Atherina A´n_ai_h_eu_.

Avaricious, _parsimonious, ungenerous_ P_ee_´p_ee_re.

Averse, _unwilling to do a thing_ Fata, h_oi_to´ h_oi_to.

Authentic, _true_ Par_ou_, m_ou_.

Awake, _not asleep_ Arra, arra´, s. E´ra.

Awry, _or to one side; as a wry neck_ Na´na.

_An_ Axe, _hatchet or adze_ Töe.

Ay, _yes; an affirmation_ _Ai_.

B.

_A_ Babe, _or child_ Mydidde.

_A_ Batchelor, _or unmarried person_ E´ev_ee_ (taata.

_The_ Back T_oo_a.

_To wipe the_ Backside Fy´r_oo_, too´ty.

Bad, _it is not good_ ´Eè´no.

_A_ Bag _of straw_ Ete´öe, s. Eäte.

Bait, _for fish_ Era´_eu_noo.

Baked _in the oven_ Et_oo_n_oo_.

Bald-headed _Oo_po´b_oo_ta.

Bamboo _Ee_n_ee´ou_.

A Bank, _or shoal_ E´paa.

Bare, _naked, applied to a person that is undressed_ Ta´turra.

_The_ Bark _of a tree_ Ho´hore.

Barren _land_ Fe´nooa Ma_ou_re.

_A large round_ Basket _of twig_ He´na.

_A small_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_ V_ai_´h_ee_.

_A long_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_ Apo´_ai_ra.

_A_ Basket _of plantain stock_ Papa´ M_aiee_a.

_A fisher’s_ Basket Er´re´vy.

_A round_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_ Mo´ene.

_A_ Bastard Fanna t_oo_´n_ee_a.

Bastinado, _to bastinade or flog a person_ Tapra´h_ai_.

_To_ bathe Ob´_oo_.

_A_ Battle, _or fight_ E´motto.

_A_ Battle-axe O´morre.

_To_ bawl, _or cry aloud_ T_ei_mo´toro.

_A_ Bead Pöe.

_The_ Beard _Oo_me _oo_me.

_To_ beat _upon, or strike a thing_ T_oo_´py _or_ T_oo_´ba_ee_.

_To_ beat _a drum_ Er_oo_´k_oo_.

_To_ beckon _a person with the hand_ Ta´rappe.

_A_ Bed, _or bed-place_ E´ro_ee_, s. Möi´a.

_To_ bedawb, _or bespatter_ Par´ry.

_A_ Bee E´räo.

_A_ Beetle P_ee_re´te_ee_.

Before, _not behind_ Te´möa.

_A_ Beggar, _a person that is troublesome, continually asking for somewhat_ Tapa´r_oo_.

Behind, _not before_, Te´m_oo_r_ee_.

_To_ belch Er_oo_´y.

Below, _as below stairs_ Teì´dirro, s. T_ee_diraro.

Below, _underneath, far below_ O´raro.

_To_ Bend _any thing, as a stick, &c._ Fa´fe´fe.

Benevolence, _generosity_ e.g. _You are a Ho´röa. Taata ho´roa generous man_ öe.

Between, _in the middle, betwixt two_ Fero´p_oo_.

_To_ bewail, _or lament by crying_ E´tat_ee_.

Bigness, _largeness, great_ Ara´hay.

_A_ Bird Manoo.

_A_ Bitch _Oo_re, e´_oo_ha.

_To_ bite, _as a dog_ A´ah_oo_.

Black, _colour_ Ere, ere.

Bladder Töa´me eme.

_A_ Blasphemer, _or person who speaks disrespectfully of their deities_ T_oo_na, (t_aa_ta.

Blind Matta-po.

A Blister, _raised by a burn or other means_ M_ei_´_ee_.

Blood, Toto, s. Eh_oo_´_ei_.

_To_ blow _the nose_ Fatte.

_The_ blowing, _or breathing of a whale_ Ta´hora.

Blunt, _as a blunt tool of any sort_ Ma´_nee_a.

_The carved_ Boards _of a Maray_ E´ra.

_A little_ Boat, _or canoe_ E´väa.

_A_ Boil Fe´fe.

Boldness Eäw_ou_.

_A_ Bone E´ev_ee_.

_A_ Bonetto, _a fish so called_ Peera´ra.

_To_ bore _a hole_ Ehoo´_ee_, s. Eh_oo_´o.

_A_ Bow E´fanna.

_A_ Bow-string Aroö h_oo_a.

_To_ bow _with the head_ Etoo´o.

_A young_ Boy, My´didde.

Boy, _a familiar way of speaking_ He´aman_ee_.

_The_ Brain _of any animal_ A´b_oo_ba.

_A_ Branch _of a tree or plant_, E´ama.

Bread-fruit, _or fruit of the bread-tree_ _Oo_r_oo_.

Bread-fruit, _a particular sort of it_ E´patëa.

_An insipid paste of_ Bread-fruit Eh´öe.

_The gum of the_ Bread-tree Tappo´_oo_r_oo_.

_The leaf of the_ Bread-tree E´da´_oo_r_oo_.

_The pith of the_ Bread-tree Po´_oo_r_oo_.

_To_ break _a thing_ O´whatte, s. Owhanne, s. Fatte.

_The_ Breast, O´ma.

_A_ Breast-plate _made of twigs, ornamented with feathers, dog’s hair, and pearl shell_ Ta´_oo_me.

_To_ breathe Watte w_ee_te w_ee_ të´aho.

Bring, _to ask one to bring a thing_, Ho´my.

Briskness, _being brisk or quick_ T_ee_´t_ee_re.

Broiled, _or roasted as broiled meat_ _Oo_aw_ee_ra.

Broken, _or cut_ Mot_oo_.

_The_ Brow, _or forehead_ E´ry.

_A_ brown _colour_ A´ur_au_ra.

Buds _of a tree or plant_ Te, arre´ha_oo_.

_A_ Bunch _of any fruit_ E´ta.

_To_ burn _a thing_ Döod_oo_e.

_A_ Butterfly Pepe.

C.

_To_ call _a person at a distance_ T_oo_o´t_oo_´o_oo_.

_A_ Calm Ma´n_ee_no.

_A_ Calm, _or rather to be so placed that the wind has no access to you_ E_ou_, she´a.

_Sugar_ Cane ´Töo, s. Etöo.

_A_ Cap, _or covering for the head_ T_au_´matta.

_To_ carry _any thing_ E´a´mo.

_To_ carry _a person on the back_ Eva´ha.

_To catch a thing hastily with the hand_, _as a fly, &c._ Po´po_ee_, s. Peero.

_To_ catch _a ball_ Ama´wh_ee_a.

_To_ catch _fish with a line_ E´h_oo_te.

_A_ Caterpillar E´t_oo_a.

Celerity, swiftness T_ee_´teere, s. E´tirre.

_The_ Centre, _or middle of a thing_ Tera´p_oo_.

Chalk Mamma´tëa.

_A_ Chatterer, _or noisy impertinent fellow_ Taata E´m_oo_, s. E´m_oo_.

Cheerfulness Wara.

_The_ Cheek Pappa´r_ee_a.

_A_ Chest ´P_ee_ha.

_The_ Chest, _or body_ O´p_oo_.

_To_ chew, _or eat_ E´y.

Chequered, _or painted in squares_ P_oo_re, p_oo_re.

_A_ Chicken Möa pee´ri_ai_a.

_A_ Chief, _or principal person; one of the first rank amongst the people_ Eär_ee_.

_An inferior_ Chief, _or one who is only in an independent state, a gentleman_ T_oo_´_ou_.

Child-bearing Fanou, e´vaho.

Children’s _language_ Father O´pucen_oo_, _and_ Papa.

Children’s _language_ Mother E´wh_ei_arre, _and_ O´pa´tëa.

Children’s _language_ Brother E´tama.

Children’s _language_ Sister Te´t_oo_a.

_The_ Chin, _and lower jaw_ E´t_aa_.

Choked, _to be choked as with victuals, &c._ Ep_oo_´n_ei_na, s. Er_oo_´y.

_To_ choose, _or pick out_ Eh_ee_e,te,me,my,ty.

Circumcision, _or rather an incision of the foreskin_ E_oo_re te´h_ai_.

_A sort of_ Clappers _used at funerals_ Par´ha_oo_.

Clapping _the bend of the arm smartly with the hand, so as make a noise, an Indian custom_ E´t_oo_.

_The_ Claw, _of a bird_ A´_ee_ _oo_.

Clay, _or clammy earth_ Ewh_ou_, arra.

Clean, _not nasty_ _Oo_a´ma, s. E_oo_´ _ee_.

Clear, _pure; as clear water, &c._ Tëa´te.

_White clayey_ Cliffs E´mammatëa.

Close, _shut_ Eva´h_ee_.

Cloth _of any kind, or rather the covering or raiments made of it_ Ahoo.

_A piece of oblong_ Cloth, _slit in the middle, through which the head is put, and it then hangs down behind and before_ Teeboota.

_Brown thin_ Cloth _Oo_´er_ai_.

_Dark brown_ Cloth Poo´h_ee_re.

_Nankeen coloured_ Cloth A´h_ee_re, s. _Oo_a.

_Gummed_ Cloth Oo´_ai_r ara.

_Yellow_ Cloth Heappa, heappa, s. A´ade, p_oo_´_ee_ _ei_, s. Oora poo´_ee_ _ei_.

Cloth, _a piece of thin white cloth wrapt round Par_oo_´y, _by which the waist, or thrown over the shoulders_ name they also call a white shirt._

_A_ Cloth-beater, _or an oblong square piece of wood grooved and used in making cloth_ To´aa.

_The_ Cloth-plant, _a sort of Mulberry tree_ Ea_ou_te.

_A_ Cloud E´äo, s. E´a_oo_.

_A_ Cock Möa, e´töa.

Cock, _the cock claps his wings_ Te Moa Pa_ee_, pa_ee_.

_A_ Cock-roach Potte potte.

_A_ Cocoa nut _A_´r_ee_.

_The fibrous husk of a_ Cocoa-nut P_oo_r_oo_´ waha, s. P_oo_r_oo_.

Cocoa-nut oil E´rede, äe.

Cocoa leaves E,ne´ha_oo_.

Coition E´y.

_The sense of_ Cold Ma´r_ee_de.

_A_ Comb P´ahoro, s. Pa´herre.

Company, _acquaintance, gossips_ T_ee_´ÿa.

Compliance _with a request, consent_ Mad_oo_, ho´why.

Computation, _or counting of numbers_ Ta´t_ou_.

_A_ Concubine Wa´h_ei_ne, Möebo, s. Etoo´n_ee_a.

Confusedness, _without order_ E´vah_ee_a.

Consent, _or approbation_ Mad_oo_, ho´why.

Contempt, _a name of contempt given to a maid, or unmarried woman_ Wah_ei_ne, p_oo_´ha.

Conversation Para_ou_, maro, s. Para´para_ou_.

_A sort of_ Convolvulus, _or bind weed, common in the Islands_ O´h_oo_e.

_Cooked, dressed; not raw_ Ee´_oo_, s. E_ee_´wera.

_To_ cool _one with a fan_ Taha´r_ee_.

Cordage _of any kind_ Taura.

_The_ Core _of an apple_ Böe.

_A_ Cork, _or stopper of a bottle or gourd shell_ Ora´h_oo_e.

_A_ Corner E´pecho.

Covering, _the covering of a fish’s gills_ Pe_ee_´eya.

Covetousness, _or rather one not inclined to give_ Pee,peere.

_A_ Cough Ma´re.

_To_ court, _woo a woman_ Ta´raro.

Coyness _in a woman_ No´nöa.

_A_ Crab Pappa.

Crab, _a large land crab that climbs the cocoa-nut trees for fruit_ E´_oo_wa.

_A_ Crack, _cleft, or fissure_ Mot_oo_.

Crammed, _lumbered, crowded_ Ooa _pee_a´pe, s. Ehotto.

_The_ Cramp Emo´t_oo_ t_oo_.

_A_ Cray fish, O´_oo_ra.

_To_ creep _on the hands and feet_ Ene´_ai_.

Crimson _colour_ _Oo_ra _oo_ra.

Cripple, _lame_ T_ei_´t_ei_.

Crooked, _not straight_ _Oo_o´p_ee_o.

_To_ crow _as a cock_ A´a _oo_a.

_The_ Crown _of the head_ T_oo_´p_oo_e.

_To_ cry, _or shed tears_ Ta_ee_.

_A brown_ Cuckoo, _with black bars and a long tail, frequent in the isles_ Ara´werewa.

_To_ cuff, _or slap the chops_ E´par_oo_.

Curlew, _a small curlew or whimbrel found about the rivulets_ Torëa.

Cut, or divided Mot_oo_.

_To_ cut _the hair with scissars_ O´tee.

D

_A_ Dance H_ee_va.

Darkness Poee´r_ee_, s. Po_oo_´r_ee_.

_To_ darn O´ono.

_A_ Daughter Ma´h_ei_ne.

Day, _or day-light_ Mara´marama. s. A´_ou_, s. A´a _ou_.

Day-break Oota´tah_e_ita.

Day, _to-day_ A_oo_´n_ai_.

Dead Matte röa.

_A natural_ Death Matte nöa.

Deafness Ta´r_eea_, t_oo_r_ee_.

Decrepit Epoo´t_ooa_.

Deep-water Mona´.

_A_ Denial, _or refusal_ Eh_oo_´ nöa.

_To_ desire, _or wish for a thing_ E_ooee_.

_A_ Devil, _or evil spirit_ E´t_ee_.

Dew Ahe´a_oo_.

_A_ Diarrhœa, _or looseness_ Hawa, hawa.

_To_ dip _meat in salt water instead of salt_ (_an Indian custom_) Faw_ee_´wo.

Dirt, _or nastiness of any kind_ E´repo.

Disapprobation Eh_oo_nöa.

_A_ Disease, _where the head cannot be held up, perhaps the palsy_ E´p_ee_.

_To_ disengage, _untie or loosen_ Ea_oo_´w_ai_.

Dishonesty E_ee_´a.

Displeased, _to be displeased, vexed, or in the dumps_ Ta_ee_´va.

Dissatisfaction, _to grumble, or be dissatisfied_ Fa_oo_´one.

Distant, _far off_ Röa.

_To_ distort, _or wreath the limbs, body, lips, &c._ Faee´ta.

_To_ distribute, _divide or share out_ At_oo_´ha.

_A_ District Mat_ei_´na.

_A_ Ditch Eö´h_oo_.

_To_ dive _under water_ Eho´p_oo_.

_A_ Dog _Oo_r_ee_.

_A_ Doll _made of cocoa-plats_ Ad_oo_´a.

_A_ Dolphin A´_ou_na.

Done, _have done; or that is enough, or there is no more_ A´teera.

_A_ Door _Oo_´b_oo_ta.

Double, _or when two things are in one; as a double canoe_ Tau´r_oo_a.

Down, _or soft hair_ E´waou.

_To_ draw _a bow_ Etëa.

_To_ draw, _or drag a thing by force_ Era´ko.

Dread, _or fear_ Mattou.

Dress’d, _or cook’d, not raw_ Ee´_oo_.

_A head_ Dress, _used at funerals_ Pa´ra_ee_.

_To_ dress, _or put on the clothes_ _Eu_, hau´ho_oo_ t´Ahoo.

_To_ drink A_ee_´n_oo_.

Drop, _a single drop of any liquid_ _Oo_, ata´hai.

_To_ drop, _or leak_ Eto´t_oo_r_oo_, s. E´t_oo_r_oo_.

Drops, _as drops of rain_ To´potta.

Drowned Parre´mo.

_A_ Drum Pa´h_oo_.

Dry, _not wet_ _Oo_´maro.

_A_ Duck Mora.

_A_ Dug, _teat, or nipple_ E_oo_.

Dumbness E´faö.

E

_The_ Ear Ta´r_ee_a.

_The inside of the_ Ear Ta´toor_ee_.

_An_ Ear-ring Poe note tar_ee_a.

_To_ eat, _or chew_ E´y, s. Mäa.

_An_ Echinus, _or sea egg_ Heawy.

Echo T_oo_o.

_An_ egg _of a bird_ Ehooero te Man_oo_.

_A white_ Egg bird Pee´ry.

Eight A´waroo.

_The_ Elbow T_oo_´r_ee_.

Empty Ooata´aö, s. Tata´_oo_a.

_An_ Enemy Taata´e.

Entire, _whole, not broke_ Eta, Eta.

Equal _Oo_hy´t_ei_.

Erect, _upright_ Et_oo_.

_A_ Euphorbium _tree, with white flowers_ Te´too_ee_.

_The_ Evening Ooh_oi_´h_oi_.

Excrement T_oo_´ty.

_To_ expand, _or spread out cloth, &c._ Ho´hora.

_The_ Eye Matta.

_The_ Eye-brow, _and eye-lid_ T_oo_a, matta.

F

_The_ Face E´mo_teea_.

_To hide or hold the_ Face _away, as when ashamed_ Far_ee_´wa_i_.

Facetious, _merry_ Faatta atta.

Fainting, _to faint_ Möe, mo´my.

_To_ fall _down_ Topa.

False, _not true_ Ha´warre.

_A_ Fan, _or to fan the face, or cool it_ Taha´r_ee_.

_To_ fart, _or a fart_ Eh_oo_.

Fat, _full of flesh, lusty_ P_ee_a.

_The_ Fat _of meat_ Ma_ee_.

_A_ Father Med_oo_a tanne.

_A step-_father Tanne, te höa.

Fatigued, _tired_ E´h_eieu_, s. Faea.

Fear Mattou.

_A_ Feather, _or quill_ H_oo_r_oo_, h_oo_r_oo_ man_oo_.

_Red_ Feathers Ora, h_oo_r_oo_ te man_oo_.

Feebleness, _weakness_ Fara´ra, s. Tooro´r_ee_.

_The sense of_ Feeling Fa´fa.

_To_ feel Tear´ro.

_A young, clever, dexterous_ Fellow, _or boy_ Te´my de pa´ar_ee_.

_The_ Female _kind of any animal_ E´_oo_ha.

_The_ Fern-tree Ma´mo_oo_.

Fertile _land_ Fen_oo_a, maa.

Fetch, _go fetch it_ Atee.

Few _in number_ Eote.

_To_ fight E´neotto.

_A_ Fillip, _with the fingers_ Epatta.

_The_ Fin _of a fish_ Tirra.

_To_ finish _or make an end_ Eiote.

_A_ Finger E´r_ee_ma.

Fire Ea´hai.

_A flying_ Fish Mara´ra.

_A green flat_ Fish E_eu_me.

_A yellow flat_ Fish _Oo_´morehe.

_A flat green and red_ Fish P_ai_´_ou_.

_The cuckold_ Fish Etata.

_A_ Fish _E_ya.

Fishing _wall for hauling the seine at the first point_ Epa.

_A_ Fish _pot_ E´wha.

_A long_ Fishing _rod of Bamboo, used to catch bonettoes, &c._ Ma´k_ee_ra.

_A_ Fissure, _or crack_ Motoo.

Fist, _to open the fist_ Ma´hora.

Fist, _striking with the fist in dancing_ A´moto.

_A flie_ Flapper, _or to flap flies_ Dah_ee_´ere e´r_eu_pa.

Flatness, _applied to a nose, or a vessel broad and flat; also a spreading flat-topt tree_ Papa.

_A red_ Flesh _mark_ E_ee_´da.

_To_ float _on the face of the water_ Pa´noo.

_The_ Flower, _of a plant_ P_oo_a.

_Open_ Flowers T_ee_arre´_oo_ wa.

Flowers, _white odoriferous flowers used as ornaments in the ears_ T_ee_arre tarr_ee_a.

Flown, _it is flown, or gone away_ Ma h_ou_ta.

_A_ Flute W_ee_wo.

_A black_ Fly-catcher, _a bird so called_ O´mamäo.

_A_ Fly P_oo_re´h_oo_a.

_To_ fly, _as a bird_ E´r_ai_re.

Fog, _or mist_ Ry´po_eea_.

_To_ fold _up a thing, as cloth, &c._ He´fet_oo_.

_A_ fool, _scoundrel, or other epithet of contempt_ Ta´_ou_na.

_The_ Foot, _or sole of the foot_ Tapooy.

_The_ Forehead E´ry.

Forgot, _or lost in memory_ _Oo_´aro.

Foul, _dirty, nasty_ Erepo.

_A_ Fowl Möa.

Four E´ha.

_The_ Frapping _of a flute_ Ahëa.

Freckles Taina.

Fresh, _not salt_ Eanna, anna.

Friction, _rubbing_ E´_oo_ _ee_.

Friend, _a method of addressing a stranger_ Ehöa.

_A particular_ Friend, _or the salutation to him_ E´apatte.

_To_ frisk, _to wanton, to play_ Ehanne.

From _there_ No, r_ei_ra, s. No, r_ei_da.

From _without_ No, waho´_oo_.

From _before_ No, m_oo_a.

Fruit ´Hoo´ero.

_Perfume_ Fruit, _from Tethuroa, a small island_ Hooero te manoo.

_A yellow_ Fruit, _like a large plumb, with a rough core_ A´v_ee_.

Full, _satisfied with eating_ Pÿa, s. _Oo_´pÿa, s. Paÿa.

_A_ Furunculus, _or a small hard boil_ Apoo.

G

_A_ Garland _of flowers_ A´v_ou_t_oo_, s. Ar_ou_too Efha, apai.

Generosity, _benevolence_ Ho´röa.

_A_ Gimblet Eho´_oo_.

_A_ Girdle Ta´t_oo_a.

_A_ Girl, _or young woman_ Too´n_ee_a.

_A_ Girthing _manufacture_ Tat_oo_´y.

_To_ give _a thing_ Höa´t_oo_.

_A looking-_Glass H_ee_o´_ee_ota.

_A_ Glutton, _or great eater_ Taata A´_ee_, s. Era´pöa n_oo_e.

_To_ go, _or move from where you stand; to walk_ Harre.

_To_ go, _or leave a place_ Era´wa.

Go, _begone, make haste and do it_ Haro.

Go _and fetch it_ At_ee_.

Good, _it is good, it is very well_ My´ty, s. Myty, tye, s. Maytay.

Good_-natured_ Mama´h_ou_, s. Ma´r_oo_.

_A_ Grandfather Too´b_oo_na.

_A_ Great-grandfather Tooboona tahe´too.

_A_ Great-great-grandfather Ouroo.

_A_ Grandson Mo´b_oo_na.

_To_ grasp _with the hand_ Hara´w_ai_.

Grasping _the antagonist’s thigh when dancing_ Tomo.

Grass, _used on the foots of their houses_ Ano´noho.

_To_ grate _cocoa-nut kernel_ E´annatehea´r_ee_.

Great, _large, big_ Ara´h_ai_.

Green _colour_ P_oo_re, p_oo_re.

_To_ groan Er_oo_, whe.

_The_ groin Ta´pa.

_To_ grow _as a plant, &c._ We´r_oo_a.

_To_ grunt, _or strain_ Etee, t_oo_whe.

_The blind_ Gut Ora´b_oo_b_oo_.

_The_ Guts _of any animal_ A´a_oo_.

H

_The_ Hair _of the head_ E´ror_oo_, s. E´roh_oo_r_oo_.

_Grey_ Hair Hinna´heina.

_Red_ Hair, _or a red-headed man_ E´h_oo_.

_Curled Hair_ P_ee_p_ee_.

_Woolly or frizzled_ Hair Oë´töeto.

_To pull the_ Hair E´w_ou_a.

Hair, _tied on the crown of the head_ E´p_oo_te.

Half _of any thing_ Fa´_ee_te.

_A_ Hammer Et_ee_´te.

Hammer _it out_ Atoo´bian_oo_.

_The_ Hand E´r_ee_ma.

_A deformed_ Hand P_ee_le´_oi_.

_A motion with the_ Hand _in dancing_ O´ne o´ne.

_A_ Harangue, _or speech_ Oraro.

_A_ Harbour _or anchoring-place_ T_oo_´t_ou_.

Hardness E´ta, e´ta.

_A_ Hatchet, _axe, or adze_ Töe.

He Nana.

_The_ Head _Oo_po.

_A shorn_ Head E´v_ou_a.

_The_ Head-ache, _in consequence of Drunkenness_ Eana´n_ee_a.

_The sense of_ Hearing Faro.

_The_ Heart _of an animal_ A´h_ou_too.

Heat, _warmth_ Mahanna, hanna.

Heavy, _not light_ T_ei_ma´ha.

_The sea_ Hedge-hog Totera.

_A blue_ Heron Otoo.

_A white_ Heron Tra´pappa.

_To_ hew _with an axe_ Teraee.

Hibiscus, _the smallest species of Hibiscus, with rough seed cases, that adhere to the clothes in walking_ P_ee_re, p_ee_re.

Hibiscus, _a species of Hibiscus, with large yellow flowers_ Po_oo_´r_ou_.

_The_ Hiccup Et_oo_´_ee_, s. E_oo_´wha.

Hide, _to hide a thing_ Eh´_oo_na.

High, _or steep_ Mato.

_A_ Hill, _or mountain_ Ma_oo_, s. Ma_oo_´a, s. M_ou_a.

_One tree_ Hill, _a hill so called in Matavai Bay_ Tal´ha.

_To_ hinder, _or prevent_ Tapëa.

_The_ Hips E´tohe.

Hips, _the black punctuated part of the hips_ Tamo´r_ou_.

_To_ hit _a mark_ Ele´ba_ou_, s. Wa´p_oo_ta.

Hiss, _to hiss, or hold out the finger at one_ T_ee_´he.

Hoarseness Efäo.

_A_ Hog Böa.

_To_ hold _fast_ Mou.

Hold _your tongue, be quiet, or silent_ Ma´m_oo_.

_A_ Hole, _as a gimblet-hole in wood, &c._ E´r_oo_a, s. Poota.

_To_ hollo, _or cry aloud to one_ T_oo_´o.

_To keep at_ home Ate´_ei_ te Efarre.

Honesty Eea´_ou_re.

_A fish_ Hook Ma´_tau_.

_A fish_ hook _of a particular sort_ W_ee_te, w_ee_te.

_The_ Horizon E´pa_ee_ no t´ Era_ee_.

Hot, _or sultry air, it is very hot_ Poh_ee_´a.

_A_ House E´farre, s. E´wharre.

_A_ House _of office_ Eha´m_oo_te.

_A large_ House Efarre´pota.

_A_ House _on props_ A´whatta.

_An industrious_ House-wife Ma´h_ei_ne Am_au_ hattoi.

How _do you, or how is it with you_ Te´hanoöe.

Humorous, _droll, merry_ Fa, atta, ´atta.

Hunger Poro´r_ee_, s. Po_ee_´a.

_A_ Hut, _or house_ E´farre.

I

I, _myself, 1st person singular_ ^1W_ou_ ^2M_ee_.

_The lower_ Jaw E´ta.

Idle, _or lazy_ T_ee_´py.

Jealousy _in a woman_ Ta b_oo_ne, s. Fateeno, s. H_oo_´hy.

Ignorance, _stupidity_ W_ee_a´ta.

Ill-natured, _cross_ O_o_re, e´_ee_ore.

_An_ Image _of a human figure_ E´tee.

Imps, _the young imps_ Tëo´he.

Immature, _unripe, as unripe fruit_ Poo.

Immediately, _instantly_ To´hyto.

Immense, _very large_ Röa.

Incest, _or incestuous_ Ta´wytte.

Indigent, _poor, necessitous_ T_ee_, t_ee_.

Indolence, _laziness_ T_ee_´py.

Industry, _opposed to idleness_ Ta_ee_´a.

Inhospitable, _ungenerous_ P_ee_´p_ee_re.

_To_ inform E´whäe.

_A sort of_ Ink, _used to punctuate_ E´rah_oo_.

_An_ inquisitive _tattling woman_ Maheine Opatai_ee_hu.

_To_ interrogate, _or ask questions_ Faeete.

_To_ invert, _or turn upside down_ E´h_oo_ra, tela´why.

_An_ Islet Mo´too.

_The_ Itch, _an itching of any sort_ Myro.

_To_ jump, _or leap_ Mah_ou_ta, s. Araire.

K

Keep _it to yourself_ V_ai_h_ee_´o.

_The_ Kernel _of a cocoa-nut_ Emo´t_ee_a.

_To_ kick _with the foot_ Ta´h_ee_.

_The_ Kidneys F_oo_a´h_oo_a.

Killed, _dead_ Matte.

_To_ kindle, _or light up_ Emäa.

_A_ King Eär_ee_,da´h_ai_.

_A_ King-fisher, _the bird so called_ E´r_oo_ro.

_To_ kiss E´ho_ee_.

Kite, _a boy’s play-kite_ O´omo.

_The_ Knee E´t_oo_r_ee_.

_To_ kneel T_oo_´t_oo_r_ee_.

_A_ Knot Ta´pona.

_A double_ Knot Va´hod_oo_.

_The female_ Knot _formed on the upper part of the garment, and on one side_ T_ee_bona.

_To_ know, _or understand_ E_e_te.

_The_ Knuckle, _or joint of the fingers_ T_ee_,p_oo_.

L

_To_ labour, _or work_ Ehëa.

_A_ Ladder Era´a, s. E´ara.

_A_ Lagoon Ewha´_ou_na, s. Eä´_ou_na.

Lame, _cripple_ T_ei_´t_ei_.

_A_ Lance, _or spear_ Täo.

Land, _in general a country_ Fe´n_oo_a, s. Whe´n_oo_a.

Language, _speech, words_ Pa´ra_ou_.

Language, _used when dancing_ Timora´d_ee_, te´Timoro´d_ee_.

Large, _great, not small_ Ara´h_ai_.

Largeness, _when applied to a country, &c._ N_oo_e.

_To_ laugh Atta.

Laziness T_ee_´py.

Lean, _the lean of meat_ Aëo.

Lean, _slender, not fleshy_ T_oo_´h_ai_.

_To_ leap Ma´h_ou_ta, s. A´rere.

Leave _it behind, let it remain_ ´V_ai_nëo.

_To_ leave E´wh_eeoo_.

_The_ Leg A´wy.

Legs, _my legs ache, or are tired_ A´h_oo_a.

_A_ Liar Taata,ha´warre.

_To_ lie _down, or along, to rest one’s self_ Ete´raha, s. Te´_poo_.

_To_ lift _a thing up_ Era´w_ai_.

_Day_ Light Mara´marama.

Light, _or fire of the great people_ T_ou_t_oi_,papa.

Light, _or fire of the common people_ N_ee_äo,papa.

Light, _to light or kindle the fire_ A´t_oo_n_oo_ t´ E_ee_´wera.

Light, _not heavy_ Ma´ma.

Lightning _Oo_´w_ai_ra.

_The_ Lips _Oo_´t_oo_.

Little, _small_ _Ee_te.

_A_ Lizard Mö´o.

Loathsome, _nauseous_ ´E,a´wawa.

_A sort of_ Lobster, _frequent in the isles_ T_ee_´on_ai_.

_To_ loll _about, or be lazy_ Tee´py.

_To_ loll _out the tongue_ Ewha´tor_oo_ t´ Arere.

_To_ look _for a thing that is lost_ Tap_oo_n_ee_.

_A_ Looking-glass H_ee_o´_ee_´otta.

Loose, _not secure_ A_oo_´w_ee_wa.

_A_ Looseness, _or purging_ Hawa,´hawa.

_To_ love Ehe´nar_oo_.

_A_ Lover, _courtier, wooer_ Eh_oo_´nöa.

_A_ Louse _Oo_´t_oo_.

Low, _not high, as low land, &c._ Hëa,hëa, s. Papoo, s. E_ee_´öa.

_The_ Lungs T_ee_too,arapoa.

Lusty, _fat, full of flesh_ Oo´p_ee_a.

M

Maggots E´h_oo_h_oo_.

_A_ Maid, _or young woman_ T_oo_´n_ea_.

_To_ make _the bed_ _H_o´hora, te Mö_e_´ya.

_The_ Male _of any animal, male kind_ E´töa.

_A_ Man Täata, s. Taane.

_An ill-disposed, or insincere_ Man Täata,ham´an_ee_n_o_.

_A_ Man _of war bird_ Otta´ha.

Many, _a great number_ Wo´rou, wo´rou, s. man_oo_, man_oo_.

_A black_ Mark _on the skin_ E´_ee_r_ee_.

Married, _as a married man_ Fan_ou_´nou.

_A_ Mat E´vanne.

_A silky kind of_ Mat Möe´a.

_A rough sort of_ Mat, _cut in the middle to admit the head_ P_oo_´rou.

_A_ Mast _of a ship or boat_ T_ee_ra.

Mature, _ripe; as ripe fruit_ Para, s. Pe.

Me, _I_ W_ou_, s. M_ee_.

_A_ Measure E´a.

_To_ measure _a thing_ Fa´_ee_te.

_To_ meet _one_ Ewharidde.

_To_ melt, _or dissolve a thing, as grease, &c._ T_oo_´t_oo_e.

_The_ Middle, _or midst of a thing_ Teropoo.

Midnight O´t_oo_ra,h_ei_´po.

_To_ mince, _or cut small_ E´p_oo_ta.

Mine, _it is mine, or belongs to me_ No´_oo_.

_To_ miss, _not to hit a thing_ _Oo_´happa.

Mist, _or fog_ Ry´po_ee_a.

_To_ mix _things together_ A´p_oo_e,p_oo_e.

_To_ mock, _or scoff at one_ Etoo´h_ee_.

Modesty Mamma´,ha_oo_.

Moist, _wet_ Wara´r_ee_.

_A_ Mole _upon the skin_ At_oo_´nöa.

_A lunar_ Month, Mara´ma.

_A_ Monument, _to the dead_ Whatta´r_au_.

_The_ Moon Mara´ma.

_The_ Morning Oo´po_ee_´po_ee_.

_To-_morrow Bo´bo, s. A, Bo´bo.

_The day after to-_morrow A´bo´bo d_oo_ra.

_The second day after to-_morrow Po_ee_, po_ee_, addoo.

_A_ Moth E,pepe.

_A_ Mother Ma´d_oo_a, wa´, h_ei_ne.

_A_ motherly, _or elderly woman_ Pa´tëa.

Motion, _opposed to rest_ _Oo_´ata.

_A_ Mountain, _or hill_ Ma_oo_a, s. M_ou_a.

Mountains _of the highest order_ M_ou_a tei´tei.

---- ---- ---- _second order_ M_ou_a ´haha.

---- ---- ---- _third or lowest order_ Pere´ra_ou_.

Mourning _Ee_va.

Mourning _leaves_, viz. _Those of the cocoa-tree used for that purpose_ Ta´pa_oo_.

_The_ Mouth Eva´ha.

_To open the_ Mouth Ha´mamma.

_A_ Multitude, _or vast number_ Wo´r_ou_, wo´r_ou_.

Murdered, _killed_ Matte, s. Matte röa.

_A_ Murderer Taata töa.

_A_ Muscle_-shell_ N_ou_,_ou_.

Music _of any kind_ H_ee_va.

_A_ Musket, _pistol or fire-arm of any kind_ P_oo_,p_oo_, s. Poo.

Mute, _silent_ Fateb_oo_a.

_To_ mutter, _or stammer_ E´wha_o_a.

N

_The_ Nail _of the fingers_ A_ee_´_oo_.

_A_ Nail _of iron_ _Eu_re.

Naked, _i. e._ _with the clothes off, undressed_ Ta´turra.

_The_ Name _of a thing_ E_ee´oa_.

Narrow, _strait, not wide_ P_ee_re,p_ee_re.

Nasty, _dirty, not clean_ E,repo.

_A_ Native Taata´toob_oo_.

_The_ Neck A´_ee_.

Needles Nareeda.

_A fishing_ Net _Oo_´p_ai_a.

New, _young, sound_ H_ou_.

Nigh Poto, s. Whatta´ta.

Night Po, s. E´a_oo_.

_To-_Night, _or to-day at night_ A´_oo_ne te´ Po.

_Black_ Night_-shade_ Oporo.

Nine A´_ee_va.

_The_ Nipple _of the breast_ E´_oo_.

_A_ Nit Eriha.

No, _a negation_ ^1Ay´ma, ^2Y_ai_ha, ^3A´_ou_re, ^4A_ee_, ^5Yeha_ee_a.

_To_ nod A´t_ouou_.

Noisy, _chattering, impertinent_ E´moo.

Noon Wawa´tea.

_The_ Nostrils Popo´hëo.

Numeration, _or counting of numbers_ Ta´t_ou_.

_A cocoa_ Nut Aree.

_A large compressed_ Nut, _that tastes like chesnuts when roasted_ E_ee_h_ee_.

O

Obesity, _corpulence_ _Oo_´p_ee_a.

_The_ Ocean Ty, s. Meede.

Odoriferous, _sweet smelled_ No´nöa.

_Perfumed_ Oil _they put on the hair_ Mo´nöe.

_An_ Ointment _plaister, or any thing that heals or relates to medicine_ E´ra´pa_oo_.

Old Ora´wheva.

One A´tahai.

Open, _clear, spacious_ Ea´tëa.

Open, _not shut_ Fe´r_ei_.

_To_ open Te´had´doo.

Opposite _to, or over against_ Watoo´wh_ei_tte.

Order, _in good order, regular, without confusion_ Wara´wara.

Ornament, _any ornament for the ear_ T_ooee_ ta´r_ee_a.

_Burial_ Ornaments, _viz. nine noits stuck in the ground_ Ma´ray Wharre.

_An_ Orphan _Oo_´hoppe, poo´_ai_a.

Out, _not in, not within_ T_ei_we´ho.

_The_ Outside _of a thing_ _Oo_a´p_ee_.

_An_ Oven _in the ground_ E_oo_m_oo_.

Over, _besides more than the quantity_ Te´harra.

_To_ overcome, _or conquer_ E´ma´_oo_ma.

_To_ overturn, _or overset_ Eha´pa_oo_.

_An_ Owner E´whattoo.

_A large species of_ Oyster I´t_ee_a.

_The large rough_ Oyster, _or Spondylus_ Paho´öa.

P

_The_ Paddle _of a canoe, or to paddle_ E´höe.

_To_ paddle _a canoe’s head to the right_ Wha´tëa.

_To_ paddle _a canoe’s head to the left_ Wemma.

Pain, _or soreness, the sense of pain_ Ma´my.

_A_ Pair, _or two of any thing together_ Ano´ho.

_The_ Palate E´ta´nea.

_The_ Palm _of the hand_ Ap_oo_´r_ee_ma.

_To_ pant, _or breathe quickly_ Oo´pou´pou, tëa´ho.

Pap, _or child’s food_ Mamma.

_A_ Parent Me´d_oo_a.

_A small blue_ Parroquet E´v_ee_n_ee_.

_A green_ Parroquet, _with a red forehead_ E´a´a.

_The_ Part _below the tongue_ Eta´raro.

_A_ Partition, _division of screen_ Par_oo_´r_oo_.

_A_ Pass, _or strait_ E,aree´ëa.

_A fermented_ Paste _of bread, fruit, &c._ Ma´h_ee_.

_A_ Path, _or road_ Eä´ra.

_The_ Pavement _before a house or hut_ Pÿe,pye.

_A_ Pearl Pöe.

_The_ Peduncle, _and stalk of a plant_ A´mäa, s. E´atta.

_To_ peel, _or take the skin off a cocoa-nut, &c._ A´tee, s. E´atee.

Peeled, _it is peeled_ Me´at_ee_.

_A_ Peg _to hang a bag on_ Te´a_oo_.

_A_ Pepper-plant, _from the root of which they prepare an inebriating liquor_ Awa.

Perhaps, _it may be so_ E´pa´ha.

Persons _of distinction_ Patoo´nehe.

_A_ Petticoat _of plantane leaves_ Arou´m_aiee_a.

Petty, _small, trifling, opposed to N_oo_e_ _Ree_.

_A_ Physician, _or a person who attends the sick_ Taata no E´rapa_oo_.

Pick, _to pick or choose_ Eh_ee_ te m_ai_ my ty.

_A large wood_ Pigeon Er_oope_.

_A small green and white_ Pigeon _Oo_´_oo_pa.

_A small black and white_ Pigeon, _with purple wings_ _Oooo_wy´der_oo_.

_A_ Pimple H_oo_a´h_ou_a.

_To_ pinch _with the fingers_ _Oo_ma.

_A_ Plain, _or flat_ E´p_ee_ho.

Plane, _smooth_ Pa´_ee_a.

_A_ Plant _of any kind_ O´mo.

_A small_ Plant Era´bo.

_The fruit of the_ Plantane-tree M_aiee_´a, s. Maya.

_Horse_ Plantanes F_ai_´_ee_.

Pleased, _good-humoured, not cross or surly_ Mar_oo_.

Pluck _it up_ Ar_ee_te.

_To_ pluck _hairs from the beard_ H_oo_h_oo_tee.

_To_ plunge _a thing in the water_ E,_oo_´wh_ee_.

_The_ Point _of any thing_ Oë,öo, or _Oi_,_oi_.

Poison, _bitter_ Awa,awa.

_A_ Poll _Oo_ra´h_oo_.

Poor, _indigent, not rich_ T_ee_´t_ee_.

_A bottle-nosed_ Porpoise E´_ou_a.

_Sweet_ Potatoes _Oo_´marra.

_To_ pour _out any liquid substance_ Ma´n_ee_.

Pregnant, _with young_ Waha´p_oo_.

_To_ press, _or squeeze the legs gently with the hand, when tired or pained_ Roro´m_ee_.

Prick, _to prick up the ears_ Eoma te ta´r_ee_a.

_A_ Priest Ta´h_ou_a.

Prone, _or face downwards_ T_ee_´opa.

_A sort of_ Pudding, _made of fruits, oil, &c._ Po´po´_ee_.

Pumpkins A´h_ooa_.

_To_ puke, _or vomit_ E´awa, s. e´r_oo_´y.

Pure, _clear_ E´_oo_´_ee_.

_A_ Purging, _or looseness_ Hawa,hawa.

_To_ pursue, _and catch a person who has done some Er_oo_,Er_oo_, s. mischief_ Eha´r_oo_.

_To_ push _a thing with the hand_ T_oo_´ra_ee_.

Put _it up, or away_ Orno.

Q

Quickness, _briskness_ E´tirre.

_To walk_ quickly Harre´n_ei_na.

Quietness, _silence, a silent or seemingly thoughtful person_ Falle´b_oo_a.

_A_ Quiver _for holding arrows_ ´P_ee_ha.

R

_A small black_ Rail, _with red eyes_ M_ai_´ho.

_A small black_ Rail, _spotted and burred with white_ P_oo_a´n_ee_.

Rain E´_oo_a.

_A_ Rainbow E´n_oo_a.

Raft, _a raft of bamboo_ M_ai_to´e.

Rank, _strong, urinous_ Ewäo wao.

_A_ Rasp, _or file_ _Ooee_.

_A_ Rat ´Yor_ee_, s. Eyore.

Raw _meat, flesh that is not dressed or cooked_ E´otta.

Raw _fruit, as plantanes, &c. that are not baked_ Paroure.

_To_ recline, _or lean upon a thing_ E´py.

Red _colour_ _Oo_ra,_oo_ra, s. Matde.

_To_ reef _a sail_ E´po´uie te rya.

_A_ Refusal Eh_oo_´noöa.

_The_ Remainder _of any thing_ T,´Ewah_ei_.

_To_ rend, _burst, or split_ M_oo_´m_oo_m_oo_.

Rent, _cracked, or torn_ E´wha.

_To_ reside, _live, or dwell_ E´noho.

Respiration, _breathing_ _Too_e, t_oo_e.

_A_ Rib A´wäo.

Rich, _not poor, having plenty of goods, &c._ Epo´too.

_A_ Ring ´M_ai_no.

_The_ Ringworm, _a disease so called_ E´n_oo_a.

Ripe, _as ripe fruit, &c._ Para, s. Pai, s. Ooo p_ai_.

Rise, _to rise up_ A´too.

_To_ rive, _or split_ Ewha_oo_´wha_oo_.

_A_ Road, _or path_ Eä´ra.

Roasted, _or broiled_ _Oo_a´w_ai_ra.

_A_ Robber, _or thief_ E_ee_´a (taata.

_A_ Rock Pa_oo_.

_A reef of_ Rocks E´a_ou_.

Rolling, _the rolling of ship_ T_oo_´r_oo_r_e_.

_A_ Root Ap_oe_, s. E´a.

_A_ Rope _of any kind_ Taura.

Rotten, _as rotten fruit, &c._ R_oo_pe.

Rough, _not smooth_ Ta´rra, tarra.

_To_ row _with oars_ E´_oo_me, s. E´höe.

_To_ rub _a thing, as in washing the hands and face_ Ho´ro_ee_.

_The_ Rudder _of a boat, or steering paddle of a canoe_ Höe, fa´herre.

Running _backwards and forwards, endeavouring to escape_ Oo´atapone.

S

_The_ Sail _of a ship or boat_ E_ee_´_aia_.

_To_ sail, _or to be under sail_ E´whano.

Salt, _or salt-water_ Ty´ty, s. Meede.

Sand, _dust_ E´one.

Saturn Whati´hëa.

Saunders_´s island_ Tab_oo_a, Manoo.

_A_ Saw E_ee_´oo.

_A_ Scab E´tona.

_A fish’s_ Scale, _or scales_ Pöa.

_A pair of_ Scissars O´t_oo_bo, s. O´tob_oo_.

_A_ Scoop _to empty water from a canoe_ E´tata.

_To_ scrape _a thing_ _Oo_´a_oo_.

_To_ scratch _with the fingers_ Era´ra_oo_.

Scratched, _a scratched, metal, &c._ Pah_oo_re´h_oo_re.

_The_ Sea-cat, _a fish so called_ P_oo_he.

_The_ Sea Ta_ee_, s. M_ee_de.

_A_ Sea-egg He´awy.

_A_ Seam _between two planks_ Fatoo´wh_ai_ra.

_To_ search _for a thing that is lost_ Oö, s. Päe´m_ee_.

_A_ Seat Papa.

Secret, _a secret whispering or slandering another_ Ohe´m_oo_.

_The_ Seed _of a plant_ H_oo_a´t_oo_t_oo_, s. Ehooero.

_The sense of_ Seeing E´h_ee_´o.

_To_ send Eho´pöe.

_A_ Sepulchre, _or burying-place_ Ma´ray.

_A_ Servant T_ow_t_ow_.

Seven A´H_ee_t_oo_.

_To_ sew, _or string_ E´t_oo_e.

Seyne, _to haul a seyne_ Etoroo te p_ai_a.

Shady Maroo,maroo.

_To_ shake, _or agitate a thing_ E_oo_a´wai.

_A_ Shark Mäo.

Sharp, _not blunt_ Oö´ëe.

_To_ shave, _or take off the beard_ Eva´r_oo_, s. Whanne, whanne.

_A small_ Shell Ote´o.

_A tyger_ Shell Pore´h_oo_.

Shew _it me_ Enara.

_A_ Ship Pahee.

Ship-wreck Ara´wha.

_A white_ Shirt Par_oo_´y.

_To_ shiver _with cold_ A´tete.

_Mud_ Shoes, _or fishing shoes_ Tama.

_The_ Shore Euta.

Short Po´potoo.

Shut, _not open_ Opa´n_ee_, s. P_oo_´peepe.

Sickness Matte my Mamy.

_The left_ Side A´r_oo_de.

_The_ Side E´reea´wo.

_The right_ Side Atou,a´taou.

Sighing Fa´ëa.

Silence Fatte´b_oo_a.

Similar, _or alike_ _Oo_whyä´da.

_To_ sink A´tomo.

_A_ Sister T_oo_´h_ei_ne.

_To_ sit _down_ A´noho.

_To_ sit _cross-legged_ T_ee_´py.

Six A´Hon_oo_.

_A_ Skate-fish E´wha_ee_.

_The_ Skin _Ee_´ree.

_The_ Sky E´ra_ee_.

_To_ sleep Möe.

_The long_ Sleep, _or death_ Möe röa.

_To_ sleep, _when sitting_ T_oo_´roore,möe.

_A_ Sling E´ma.

Slow Marra,marröa, s. Fata.

Small, _little_ _Eet_e.

_The sense of_ Smelling Fata´t_oo_, s. _Oo_too,too.

Smell _it_ H_oi_na.

_To_ smell Ahe´_oi_.

Smoke E´_oo_ra.

Smooth Pa´ya.

Smutting _the face with charcoal for funeral ceremonies_ Bap´para.

_A sea_ Snake, _that has alternate rings of a white and black colour_ P_oo_h_ee_´ar_oo_.

_To_ snatch _a thing hastily_ E´h_ai_r_oo_.

Sneezing Mach_ee_´_ai_.

Snipe, _a bird resembling a snipe, of a black and brown colour_ T_ee_´t_ee_.

Snot ´H_oo_pe.

Soberness, _sobriety, sober, not given to drunkenness_ T_ei_r_ei_da.

_To_ soften Epar_oo_´par_oo_.

Softness, _that is not hard_ Maroo.

_The_ Sole _of the foot_ Tap_oo_´y.

_A_ Son My´de.

_A_ Son_-in-law_ H_oo_´nöa.

_A_ Song Heeva.

_A_ Sore, _or ulcer_ O´pai.

Soreness, _or pain_ Ma´may.

Sound, _any sound that strikes the ear_ Pa´_ee_na.

_A_ Span Ewhäe´ono.

_To_ speak Paraou.

Speak; _he speaks not from the heart, his words Neeate _oo_t_oo_ te are only on his lips_ parou no nona.

_A_ Spear, _or lance_ Täo.

_To_ spill Emare.

_To_ spit Too´t_oo_a.

_To_ spread, _or to expand a thing, as cloth &c._ Hoho´ra.

_To_ squeeze _or press hard_ Ne-ne_ee_.

_To_ squeeze _or press gently with the hand_ Roro´m_ee_.

Squint_-eyed_. Matta´areva.

_A fighting_ Stage _in a boat_ E´t_oo_t_ee_.

_To_ stamp _with the feet, to trample on a thing_ Tata´hy.

Stand _up_ Atëarenona.

_A_ Star E´f_ai_too, s. Hwettoo.

_A_ Star-fish Eve´r_ee_.

_To_ startle, _as when one dreams_ Wa´hee,te´dirre.

Stay, _or wait a little_ A´r_ee_a, s. Ar_ee_´ana.

_To_ steal ´Woreedo.

Steep, _as steep rocks or cliffs_ Mato.

_A walking_ Stick Tame.

Stinking, _ill smelled, as stinking water, &c._ Na´m_oo_a, s. N_ee_´ n_ee_o.

Stink, _to stink or smell ill_ F_ou_, f_ou_.

_To_ stink, _as excrement_ P_ee_ro, p_ee_ro.

_The_ Stomach ´Para_ee_´ä.

_A_ Stone Owhay.

_A polished_ Stone, _used to beat victuals into a paste_ P_ai_n_oo_.

Stones, _upright stones, which stand on the paved area before huts_ T_oo_´t_oo_re.

_A small_ Stool _to lay the head on when asleep_ Papa, s. Papa,r_oo_ä.

Stool, _to go to stool_ T_ee_t_ee_´o.

_To_ stop A´too.

_The_ Stopper _of a quiver_ Ponau.

_A_ Storm _of wind, rain, thunder, &c._ Tarooa.

Strait, _narrow, not wide_ P_ee_re,peere.

Striking, _hollow striking in dancing_ Ap_ee_.

_The_ String _of a quiver_ E´aha.

Strong, _as a strong man_ O´_o_mara.

Stuck A´b_oo_l_a_.

Stupidity, _ignorance_ W_ee_a´l_a_.

_To_ suck _as a child_ Ote,ote.

Sugar _cane_ E´To, s. Töo.

Suicide Euha´a_ou_.

Sultry, _or hot air_ Poh_ee_´_a_.

_The_ Sun Mahanna, s. Era.

_The meridian_ Sun T_ei_´n_ee_a te Mahanna.

Supine, _lying_ Fateeraha.

Surf _of the sea_ Horo´w_ai_.

_An interjection of_ Surprise, _or admiration_ Allaheuee´_ai_.

_To_ surround A´b_oo_ne.

_To_ swallow, Horo´m_ee_.

_The_ Sweat _of the body, or to sweat_, E´h_ou_, s. Eh_ou_ h_ou_.

_A_ sweet _taste_ Mona.

Swell _of the sea_ E´r_oo_.

T

_A_ Tail Ero.

_A_ Tail _of a bird_ E´hoppe.

_To_ take _a friend by the hand_ Etoo´ya_oo_.

_To_ take _off, or unloose_ Eve´vette.

_To_ take _care of the victuals_ Ewhaapoo te maa.

_To_ talk, _or converse_ Paraou.

_The sense of_ Tasting Tama´ta.

_A_ Tetotum, _or whirligig_ E´piöra.

_To_ tear _a thing_ Ha´hy, s. Whatte.

_A_ Teat, _or dug_ E´_oo_.

_The_ Teeth E´n_ee_h_ee_o.

Ten A´h_oo_r_oo_.

_To_ tend, _or feed hogs_ Ewha_ee_ te Böa.

Tenants Af_eu_´h_au_.

_A black_ Tern, _with a whitish head_ O_ee_´o.

There Te´raee.

They, _them, or theirs_ To´ta_ooa_.

Thickness, _applied to solid bodies_ M-oo´meoo.

Thick, _as thick cloth, &c._ T_oo_e,too´e.

Thick, _muddy_ Eworer´_oo_, s. E´worepo.

Thine, _it is yours, or belongs to you_ No öe.

Thirst W´ah_ee_´y.

Thoughts Para_ou_, no te o´p_oo_.

_An appearance of_ thoughtfulness Fate´b_oo_a.

Three Tor_oo_.

_The_ Throat Ara´poa.

_To_ throw, _or heave a thing_ Taora.

_To_ throw _a thing away_ Harre´wai.

_To_ throw _a ball_ Ama´h_oo_a.

_To_ throw _a lance_ Evara´towha.

Throw, _shall I throw it_ Taure´a´a.

Throwing _in dancing_ Hoe´aire.

_The_ Thumb E´r_ee_ma,erahai.

Thunder Pa´t_ee_re.

Tickle, _to tickle a person_ My´n_ee_na.

_A_ Tide, _or current_ A´ow.

_To_ tie a _knot_ Ty.

Time, _a space of time, from 6 to 10 at night_ O´t_oo_e,tee´po.

Time, _a little time, a small space_ Popo´_eu_n_oo_.

Time, _a long time, a great while_ Ta´moo.

_A_ Title _belonging to a woman of rank_ E´tapay´r_oo_.

_A_ Toe _of the foot_ Ma´n_ee_o.

_A_ Tom T_oo_,pap´pou.

_The_ Tongue E´rero.

_A_ Tortoise E´hon_oo_.

Touching Fa´fa.

Tough, _as tough meat, &c._ Ah_oo_´_ou_e.

_A_ Town E´farre p_oo_t_oo_ p_oo_t_oo_.

_To_ trample _with the foot_ Tata´he, s. Ta´ta´hy.

_A_ Tree E´räo.

_A_ Tree, _from which they make clubs, spears, &c._ Töa (Eräo.

_To_ tremble, _or shudder with cold_ _Oo_´atitte, s. Eta.

Trembling, _shaking_ A_ou_´dou.

_To_ trip _up one in wrestling_ Me´häe.

_A_ Tropic-bird Man_oo_´röa.

Truth Eva_ee_´röa, s. Para_ou_, m_ou_.

_To_ tumble P_ou_ta´heite.

_A_ Turban E´täe.

_To_ turn, _or turned_ _Oo_ä´höe.

_To_ turn _about, as in walking backwards and forwards_ H_oo_d_ee_p_ee_pe.

Twins, _twin children_ Ma´hëa.

_To_ twist _a rope_ Taw_ee_´r_ee_.

Two E´R_oo_ä.

U

_An_ Ulcer, _or sore_ O´p_ai_.

Under, _below, low down_ Oraro.

Under _sail_ P_ou_´pou_ee_.

_To_ understand Ee´te.

_To_ undress, _or take off the clothes_ Ta´turra.

_An_ unmarried _person_ Ar_ee_´_oi_.

Unripe, _as unripe fruit, &c._ P_oo_.

V

_Luminous_ Vapour Epao.

Vassal, _or subject_ Manna´h_ou_na.

Vast Ara,h_ai_, s. M_ai_,ara´h_ai_.

_The_ Veins _that run under the skin_ E´w_ou_a.

Venus T_ou_´r_oo_a.

Vessel, _any hollow vessel, as cups of nuts, &c._ _Ai_´boo.

Vessel, _a hollow vessel in which they prepare an inebriating liquor_ _Oo_´mutte.

_To_ vomit Er_oo_´y.

W

Wad, _tow, fibres like hemp_ Tam_ou_.

Wait, _stay a little_ Areeana.

Wake, _awake_ Arra arra, s. Era.

_To_ walk _out_ Avou´_oi_a.

_To_ walk _backwards and forwards_ H_oo_a´p_ee_pe.

_A_ Warrior, _soldier, or rather a man-killer_ Taatatöa.

Warmth, _heat_ Mahanna,hanna.

_A_ Wart Toria.

_To_ wash, _as to wash cloth in water_ Mare.

_To_ watch E´teäe.

Water A´vy.

Water-cresses Patöa.

We, _both of us_ Ta_oo_a, s. Ar_oo_´r_oo_a.

_A_ Wedge Era´hei.

_To_ weep, _or cry_ Ha nöa,a,ta_ee_.

Well _recovered, or well escaped_ Woura, s. woo,ara

Well, _it is well, charming, fine_ P_oo_ro´too.

What, _what’s that_ E´hara, E´ha´rya, s. Ye´ha_ee_a, _expressed inquisitively_.

What _do you call that, what is the name of it_ Owy te a_ee´oa_.

When, _at what time_ W´hëëa.

Where _is it_ Te´hëa.

Whet, _to whet or sharp a thing_ E´v_oee_.

_To_ whistle Ma´p_oo_.

Whistling, _a method of whistling to call the people to meals_ Ep_ou_,maa.

_To_ whisper _secretly, as in backbiting, &c._ Ohe´m_oo_.

Who _is that, what is he called_ Owy,tanna, s. Owy,nana.

Whole, _the whole, not a part of a thing_ E´ta,e´tea, s. A´ma_oo_.

Wide, _not strait or narrow_ Whatta,whatta.

_A_ Widow Wat_oo_neea.

Wife, _my wife_ Ma´h_ei_ne.

_The_ Wind Mattay.

_The south-east_ Wind Mattaee.

_A_ Window Ma´la_ee_ ou´panee.

_The_ Wing _of a bird_ Ere´_ou_.

_To_ wink E´am_ou_,am_oo_.

_To_ wipe _a thing clean_ Ho´ro_ee_.

Whish, _a whish to one who sneezes_ Eva´r_ou_a t Eat_oo_a.

Within _side_ T_ee_´ro to.

_A_ Woman Wa´h_ei_ne.

_A married_ Woman Wa´h_ei_ne m_ou_.

Woman, _she is a married woman, she has got another husband_ Terra,tanne.

Won’t, _I won’t do it_ ´A_eeoo_, _expressed angrily_.

Wood _of any kind_ E´raö.

_A_ Wound Oö´t_ee_.

_A_ Wrestler M_ou_na.

Wrinkled _in the face_ M_ee_o,m_ee_o.

_The_ Wrist Mo´möa.

_A_ Wry-neck Na´na.

Y

_To_ yawn Ha´mamma.

Yellow _colour_ He´appa.

Yes Ay, s. _ai_.

Yesterday Ninna´hay.

Yesternight Ere´po.

York _island_ _Ei_´mëo.

You Oë.

Young, _as a young animal of any kind_ P_ee_´n_ai_a.

END OF THE FOURTH VOLUME.

Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode, Printers Street, London.

A TABLE[21], exhibiting, at one View, SPECIMENS of different LANGUAGES, spoken in the South Sea, from Easter Island, westward to New Caledonia, as observed in the Voyage.

_English._ _Otaheite._ _Easter Island._ _The Marquesas _The Island _New Zealand._ _Malicollo._ _Tanna._ _New Caledonia._ Isles._ Amsterdam._

_A Bird_, [22]´Man_oo_, ´Man_oo_, ´Man_oo_, Man_oo_, Man_ee_, s. Man_ee_k.

_A Bow_, E´fanna, ´Fanna, Na´brr_oo_s, Na´fanga.

_Bread-fruit_, _Oo_r_oo_, M_aiee_, Ba´rabe, Tag´_oo_r_oo_.

_A Canoe_, E´väa, ´Wagga, E´väa, Ta´wagga, ´Wang?

_Cloth_, ´Ah_oo_, A´h_oo_, ´Ah_oo_, s. Babba´langa, Kak´ah_oo_, Ta´nar_ee_, Ham´ban. A´h_ooee_a,

_A Cocoa-nut_, ´Ar_ee_, ´_Eeoo_, Nar_oo_, Nab_oo_´y, ´N_eeoo_.

_To drink_, ´Ayn_oo_, A_eenoo_, ´A_ee_n_oo_, No´a_ee_, ´N_ooee_, ´_Oo_d_oo_, s. _Oo_nd_oo_.

_The Eye_, Matta, Matta, ´Matta, s. ´Matta, ´Matta, M_ai_tang, Nan_ee_´m_a_iuk, T_ee_´v_ei_n. Matta_ee_a,

_The Ear_, Ta´r_ee_a, Ta´r_ee_an, B_oo_a´_ee_na, Ta´r_ee_ka, Talingan, F_ee_n_ee_´enguk, G_ai_n´_ee_ng.

_Fish_, ´_E_ya, _Ee_ka, ´_Ee_ka, ´_Ee_ka, ´Nam_oo_?

_A Fowl_, Möa, Möa, Möa, Möe´r_oo_.

_The Hand_, E´r_ee_ma, ´R_ee_ma, E_oo_´my, E´r_ee_ma, ´R_ee_nga, Bandon´h_ee_n.

_The Head_, _Oo_´po, Aö´po, Tak´_oo_po, Ba´s_ai_ne, N_oo_gwa´n_ai_um, Gar´moing?

_A Hog_, ´Böa, ´B_oo_a, B_oo_´acka, ´Brr_oo_as, ´B_oo_ga, s. ´B_oo_gas.

_I, myself_, W_ou_, s. _ou_, ´W_ou_, _Ou_.

_To laugh_, ´Atta, ´Katta, ´Häarish, Ap, s. Gye´ap.

_A Man_, ´Täata, Papa? T_ee_te, Ba´rang, Nar_oo_´mäan.

_The Navel_, ´P_ee_to, P_ee_to, s. P_ee_to, Nemprtong, Nap_ee_´r_ai_nguk, Whanb_oo_´_ee_n. P_ee_to´_ai_,

_No_, ^1´Aym, ´_Ei_sa, ´_Ee_sha, Ka´_ou_re, Ta´ep, E´sa? ´_Ee_va, s. ^2Y_ai_ha, _Ee_ba. ^3A´_ou_re,

_Plantains_, ´M_ai_ya, ^1M_ay_a, M_aiee_a, ´F_oo_dje, Na´brruts. ^2F_oo_tse,

_Puncturation_, Ta´t_ou_, E´pat_oo_, Ta´t_ou_, Moko, ´Gan, s. Gan,galang.

_Rain_, E´_oo_a, ´_Oo_a, Na´mawar, _Oo_e.

_Sugar-cane_, E´To, To, Na´r_oo_k.

_The Teeth_, E´n_ee_h_ee_o, ´N_ee_ho, E´n_ee_ho, N_ee_fo, N_ee_ho, R_ee_´bohn, ´Warrewuk, s. Penna´w_ei_n. ´R_ai_buk,

_Water_, A´vay, E´vy, Er´g_ou_r, _Oo_e.

_To whistle_, ´Map_oo_, F_ee_o,f_ee_o, Papang, Awe´hern, ´Wy_oo_.

_A Woman_, Wa´h_ei_ne, Ve´h_ee_ne, Ra´bin, N_ai_´bräan, Tama.

_Yams_, E´_oo_he, _Oo_he, ´_Oo_fe, Nan´ram, _Oo_fe, _Oo_be.

_Yes_, _Ai_, ´_Ee_o, _Ai_, ´_Ee_o, ´Elo, s. _Ee_o, s. öe.

_You_, Oë, Oë.

_One_, A´Tahay, Katta´ha_ee_, Atta´ha_ee_, Ta´ha_ee_, Ts_ee_´ka_ee_, R_ee_d_ee_, Wag_ee_´_ai_ng.

_Two_, E´R_oo_a, ´R_oo_a, A´_oo_a, E´_oo_a, E´ry, ´Kar_oo_, ´War_oo_.

_Three_, ´Tor_oo_, ´Tor_oo_, A´tor_oo_, ´Tor_oo_, E´r_ei_, ´Kahar, Wat_ee_´en.

_Four_, A´Haa, ´Häa, s. Fäa, A´faa, A´fäa, E´bais, ´K_ai_phar, Wam´ba_ee_k.

_Five_, E´R_ee_ma, R_ee_ma, A´_ee_ma, ´N_ee_ma, E´r_ee_m, ´Kr_ee_rum, Wannim.

_Six_, A´ono, ´Hon_oo_, A´ono, Ts_oo_´ka_ee_, Ma´r_ee_d_ee_, Wannim´g_ee_ek.

_Seven_, A´H_ei_t_oo_, ´H_ee_d_oo_, A´wh_ee_t_oo_, G_oo_y, Ma´kar_oo_, Wannim´n_oo_.

_Eight_, A´war_oo_, ´Var_oo_, A´wa_oo_, H_oo_rey, Ma´kahar, Wannim´g_ai_n.

_Nine_, A´_ee_va, H_ee_va, A´_ee_va, G_oo_dbats, Ma´k_ai_phar, Wannim´baeek.

_Ten_, A´h_oo_r_oo_, Atta´h_oo_r_oo_, ´Wannah_oo_, s. Senearn, Ma´kr_ee_rum, Wann_oo_´n_ai_uk. s. Wanna´h_oo_e, Anna´h_oo_r_oo_,

Footnotes

Footnote 1:

See Lord Anson’s Voyage.

Footnote 2:

Or Mallicolla. Some of our people pronounced it Manicolo or Manicola, and thus it is also written in Quiros’s Memorial, as printed by Dalrymple, vol. ii. p. 146.

Footnote 3:

The particular manner of applying the wrapper may be seen in Wafer’s Voyage, who mentions this singular custom as existing, though with some little variation, amongst the Indians of the Isthmus of Darien. See Wafer’s Voyage, p. 140.

Footnote 4:

Dalrymple’s Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 140, 141.

Footnote 5:

See the Note, p. 32.

Footnote 6:

See the note, p. 32.

Footnote 7:

The word Survey is not here to be understood in its literal sense. Surveying a place, according to my idea, is taking a geometrical plan of it, in which every place is to have its true situation, which cannot be done in a work of this nature.

Footnote 8:

See Quiros’s Voyage, in Dalrymple’s Collection, vol. i. p. 136, 137.

Footnote 9:

See Vol. III.

Footnote 10:

See the note at p. 32. of this volume.

Footnote 11:

Wafer met with Indians in the isthmus of Darien of the colour of a white horse. See his _Description of the Isthmus_, p. 134. See also Mr. de Paw’s Philosophical Inquiries concerning the Americans, where several other instances of this remarkable whiteness are mentioned, and the causes of it attempted to be explained.

Footnote 12:

See his Voyage, English translation, p. 303.

Footnote 13:

Vide Hawkesworth’s Voyages, vol. iii.

Footnote 14:

It is not to be supposed that I could know at this time that the Adventure had made the passage before me.

Footnote 15:

See Pernety’s Journal, p. 244, and p. 213.

Footnote 16:

See English Translation of Bougainville, p. 51.

Footnote 17:

See Bougainville, p. 64

Footnote 18:

About 147 west longitude, as I reckon.

Footnote 19:

See Don Antonio d’Ulloa’s Book, vol. ii. chap. 3. page 95 to 102, where there is a very particular account of this island.

Footnote 20:

Ulloa says, that the chart places this island sixty leagues from the coast of Brazil; and that the Portuguese pilots, who often make the voyage, judge it to be eighty leagues; but, by taking the mean between the two opinions, the distance may be fixed at seventy leagues.

Footnote 21:

It may be easily perceived, that notwithstanding some words are entirely different, the first five Indian languages are radically the same; though the distance from Easter Island to New Zealand is upwards of fifteen hundred leagues. The principal difference consists in the mode of pronunciation, which in Easter Island, Amsterdam, and New Zealand, is more harsh, or guttural, than at the Marquesas Isles, or Otaheite. The other three differ totally, not only from the preceding, but from each other; which is more extraordinary than the agreement of the others, as from Malicollo to Tanna, you never lose sight of land, nor is New Caledonia at a great distance from the last place. In the language of Malicollo, a great number of harsh labial sounds prevail, very difficult to be represented in writing. At Tanna the pronunciation is likewise harsh, but rather guttural, and the inhabitants of New Caledonia have many nasal sounds, or snivel much in speaking. It may, however, be observed, that in the three last languages, some words are found, which seem to have a distant resemblance to those that go before; as Brr_oo_as in Malicollo, and ´B_oo_ga, or Boogas, in Tanna, both signifying a hog, which at Otaheite, and the Marquesas, is expressed by the word ´Böa, and at Amsterdam by B_oo_´acka. Yet, whether these may not have been accidentally introduced, is hard to determine; because they frequently use two words to express the same thing; as, for instance, in New Caledonia, they call a star both P_ee_j_oo_ and Fy’fat_oo_: the first seems most consonant to the general composition of their language, whereas the second differs very little from E’f_ai_t_oo_ or Whett_oo_, the name of a star at Otaheite. When they mention puncturation, it is commonly called Gan, Gan,galang; but sometimes they say Tata’tou, which is almost the same as Ta’t_ou_, used to express the same thing at Otaheite and Amsterdam.

Footnote 22:

The letters in italic, as _oo_, _ee_, &c. are to be sounded as one. Those with this ¨ as öe, &c. separately. The accent at the beginning of a word, signifies the chief stress in pronunciation is to be laid there: if over it, at any other part, the stress is laid on that part immediately following. A comma in the middle of a word, either signifies, that it is compounded of two; or, that the same syllables repeated, make the word; in both which cases, a small stop, or pause, must be made in pronouncing it.

Transcriber’s Note

This book uses inconsistent spelling and hyphenation, which were retained in the ebook version. Some corrections have been made to the text, including normalizing punctuation. Further corrections are noted below:

p. vii: Strait Re Maire -> Strait Le Maire p. viii: Fernando Noronha -> Fernando Noronho p. 4: a narrow stone beech -> a narrow stone beach p. 4: dischgared in the air -> discharged in the air p. 13-14: apparently to to the satisfaction -> apparently to the satisfaction p. 17: we were hardily through the passage -> we were hardly through the passage p. 27: readines to land -> readiness to land p. 67: to pass along the beech -> to pass along the beach p. 74: than stone, stone, or shells -> than stone, or shells p. 82: people wese assembled -> people were assembled p. 90: hath a good heighth -> hath a good height p. 128: all the time we said upon it -> all the time we staid upon it p. 152: found it to be a bog-bank -> found it to be a fog-bank p. 171: From the knowlege -> From the knowledge p. 173: STAIT LE MAIRE -> STRAIT LE MAIRE Illustration caption p. 178: Tierra del Fuego -> Terra del Fuego p. 202 still did not not see the peak -> still did not see the peak p. 210: missing letters in ‘At ---n we were in the latitude’ were interpreted as ‘At noon we were in the latitude’ p. 236: worth while to to proceed -> worth while to proceed p. 240: I I saluted -> I saluted p. 241: known to to the English -> known to the English p. 255: at it was attended by -> as it was attended by p. 258: were she anchored -> where she anchored Footnote 21: they call a stary both -> they call a star both