CHAPTER XII.

VISITS TO LADY ROLLE AND TO BATH AND CHELTENHAM.

Engaged in completing my manuscript preparatory to publication, I had devoted myself unweariedly to the task, and was about to correct the few last pages, when I was hindered by an invitation to pay a visit at Bicton in Devonshire, and there to recruit my health a little after my labour. Having accepted it, I purpose, for the present, to give a short account of my visit there; also to Bath and Cheltenham, which afforded me great pleasure, and which I hope will interest my readers.

Lady Rolle had kindly invited me to visit her at Merton, which invitation I was very glad to accept; and I left London by an express train in full anticipation of much enjoyment. I had often heard the gardens at Bicton described as amongst the finest in this county; no pen, however, can do justice to their attractions, and the loveliness of the surrounding scenery, which burst forth in all the majesty of a warm spring day, agreeably contrasting with the dark and murky atmosphere of London.

The rapidity of travelling by an express train really seems magical. If I were to write to my friends in the East and tell them I had travelled about two hundred miles within five hours, they would at once come to the conclusion that my head was turned like the unfortunate Druse Sheikh to whom I have alluded before. An Indian friend who was residing with me near a railway station, always compared the approach of the express train to that of Satan himself, rushing through the land direct from the infernal regions; a simile, according to my notions, not at all bad.

As soon as I had arrived at Exeter, I found a fly waiting for me, when I took my seat by the driver, preferring it to the closeness of an inside seat. I observed a great number of boys who indulged in various remarks concerning my beard, dress, etc., and frequently called after me “Kossoo! Kossoo!” the meaning of which puzzled me not a little. I thought they meant the discoverer of the plant of that name so lately recommended for its medicinal properties, thinking they meant some allusion to my having studied medicine. In my perplexity I asked the driver for an explanation. “Why, maister, you sees they’ve never afore seed any foreign gentlemen like yourself, but that ’ere one they calls Kossoo, so they ’sposes you be he.” The subsequent conversation between the driver and myself turned upon Kossuth’s merits. On my asking him if he had ever seen the Hungarian governor, “No, maister, I wishes I could send such publican foreigners into the sea instead of having them in our country.” I told him that this is not the way in which we treat foreigners in our country, he replied, “You be come from the Holy Land which be’ant our country.”

After a beautiful drive we arrived at the park-gates, where I was welcomed by the presence of a herd of beautiful deer, who seemingly were as inquisitive as human beings, they would not, however, permit me to approach them, but bounded gracefully away, thinking no doubt that so strange a looking being as myself should be first acknowledged and welcomed by their fair owner ere they would deign to become familiar with me. On arriving within sight of the mansion, I was struck with its fine appearance and noble proportions, and scarcely believed that any private individual could be the possessor of such a magnificent residence, which resembled more a royal palace than a country-seat of an English nobleman. I charged the driver with bringing me to a wrong place, but he resolutely persisted in affirming that this was the seat of Lady Rolle. On my arrival, a great many houris simultaneously appeared at the window, with what seemed to me to be wands; but soon the truth flashed upon me, and I discovered that the houris which my imagination had conjured up, were no other than Lady Rolle and her fair guests, who were amusing themselves with a game of billiards. The noble mistress of the mansion immediately introduced me to a large assemblage of wit, beauty, and fashion.

It would be difficult to describe the various charms of this truly magnificent seat, placed in the midst of scenery of the most enchanting loveliness. The noble park in which it stands studded with giant trees, that appear to be the children of centuries, spreads over a wide extent, and presents the most pleasing variety. The grounds which more immediately surround it are beautifully laid out, and in their taste and arrangement reflect the character of its noble mistress. The mansion itself is placed on the crest of a gentle hill; the splendour, the comfort, the hospitality, which are to be met with within its walls, formed altogether a scene well calculated to strike and astonish the Eastern pilgrim, who for the first time beheld it. Day by day, as the place grew more familiar, new treasures would rise upon my bewildered and wondering eyes. In the grounds there is a beautiful arboretum, which I believe contains every specimen of tree likely to reward the trouble of cultivation, and arranged with regard to its botanical classification. The various green-houses and hot-houses filled with the choicest flowers and fruits of tropical climates, delight the eye and inform the mind; and, thanks to the presiding care that overlooks and regulates the whole, all in the highest state of cultivation. Here, in the compass of a few miles, and belonging to one possessor, the plants and shrubs of the most distant countries (among others I noticed the coffee and banana) are brought together, and under the fostering care of art and intelligence, made to live and flourish in the greatest luxuriance. Among the numberless things which won my admiration, I will add the mention of a lofty tower which is built in one part of the grounds, and which is reached by a pretty drive through a wood of pine, and from whose top a view of the most magnificent kind presents itself, of hill and dale, wood and meadow; and a little distance, bounding the prospect at one point, the blue sea may be seen, adding another beauty to the landscape.

Never, in short, have I seen anything to rival this lovely human paradise, though I have had the pleasure of travelling through many English counties. I must leave my kind and indulgent reader to draw largely on his imaginative powers, and in thought translate himself to some fairy land, where nature’s beauties revel and disport in all their glory, and exhibit to the view of the entranced beholders all that is grand, beautiful, and ennobling. At Bicton time sped rapidly on, as time always will speed when spent in such charming and agreeable society. Our usual daily routine was prayers at half-past eight A.M., at which all the guests and servants attended, when her ladyship read the prayers herself. What an example thought I to thousands of the aristocracy of Europe! After prayers we repaired to the breakfast parlour, where a sumptuous repast was always provided. After the meal, the company separated into different parties—some for a drive, some for a walk, whilst others went shooting or fishing. At one, all usually re-assembled and partook of an excellent lunch; afterwards, there were billiards, bagatelle, and books; in short, each did as he thought fit. We dined, and after that there was abundance of amusement; in the evening, the ladies delighted us by playing and singing.

Towards the close of my visit, I may inform the reader that my own stock of amusements were varied (I am happy to say that it was towards the end of my stay), by the discovery that two of her ladyship’s guests, Mr. P--- and Mr. W---, were skilful with their pencils, and insisted upon handing me down to posterity in their sketch-books, so that I was suddenly assailed right and left (I think it must have been a concerted plan between them for their mutual convenience), which kept me pretty quiet in attendance to be sure—to their ease and my dis-ease. Mr. W---, not content with conferring on me the above advantage, insists on the further distinction of hanging me up at the exhibition—a sentence which I really believe he will carry into execution.

The time thus passed pleasantly away, and the recollection of these delightful hours will always be vividly engraven on my mind. Amongst the performers on the piano was one who, _par excellence_, was divine: this was a Miss W---. We often had a round game invented by Mr. P---. Something similar to “My Lady’s Toilet,” only more refined.

Lady Rolle kindly introduced me, during my residence at her abode, to a Mrs. P--- of Exeter, with whom I had a long conversation respecting the Greek church and the state of female education in Syria. I have heard that her daughters often visited the poor cottagers, with a view to improve and ameliorate their condition, a custom I am happy to find becoming very prevalent among the upper classes in England during the last few years. I wish some philanthropic young ladies would follow their good example, and make a step still further by setting out on a crusade against the ignorance of their sex in Syria.

On the grounds attached to the mansion, my hostess has built a very beautiful tower filled with valuable and rare samples of china; it resembles an Indian pagoda. This amiable lady has also built a very fine church in memory of her husband, and also a mausoleum. But what surprised me still more was to find a cottage on her grounds which was paved entirely with sheep’s knucklebones—a novel spectacle to me, and very ingenious and curious.

Whilst at Bicton, I heard a very amusing anecdote about an Eastern princess, who it appears had come there on a visit from London, and was much noticed by the nobility. This lady was very fond of vegetables and fruit, and in order the more freely to gratify her appetite, she used to rise early and go into the garden, and amongst other delicacies, she never spared the young onions, of which she was exceedingly fond. The gardener could not account for the depredations committed on his _potager_ till accident led him to discover the mystery. One day he locked the gate before the princess returned from her morning walk, and consequently she remained there some considerable time, and had to breakfast and dine off her favourite vegetables. At length, after a long search, the gardener heard her crying out, and accordingly released her.

One day during this agreeable visit was devoted to a drive to Exeter to see the cathedral, gaol, and hospital, with which I was much interested. I must here bestow a passing note of admiration on her ladyship’s “turnout,” which conveyed us to the town: suffice it to say that it was appointed in the best English style, and with four fine horses of imposing stature, with their gay silver trappings and postillions, made an excellent _coup d’œil_. With the architecture of the cathedral I was particularly struck, on account of its resemblance to the old churches in Syria. I much admired the small paintings in fresco underneath the organ, which I was told had only recently been discovered, and these were very similar to those in our churches throughout my country, and which may be seen at the present day. After having inspected the cathedral, I visited the gaol, which pleased me from being kept so scrupulously clean; and I highly approved of the regulations and rules which were laid down and enforced. But one circumstance in particular pained me very much, that was to find a child only eight years of age imprisoned for arson. I was told that he was much happier in gaol than at home. Before leaving I visited the female department, which was equally clean and well arranged, and all the women were usefully occupied. Upon enquiring of the governor of the gaol whether the female prisoners gave him much trouble, his answer was, “I would rather have to do with a dozen men than one woman.” This speech rather startled me, and, as it was time to return to Bicton, I left Exeter, having been highly gratified and pleased with my visit. During my stay in the neighbourhood, as we proceeded though the village, many and very amusing conjectures were made concerning my country and station. By some I was considered no less a personage than a Persian prince; others deemed me a Turkish Pasha, whilst many even exalted me so high as to be somewhat of more importance—an Indian Rajah. Soon after, I bade adieu to Bicton, but not without deep regret and sorrow at leaving our amiable and hospitable friend and her assembled guests.

From Bicton I proceeded to Bath. It was about mid-day when I started; the weather was lovely, and forcibly brought to my mind the contrast between the murky and ungenial atmosphere which pervaded London when I left it, and the bright clear air of this favoured portion of England. Could my readers, who spend so much of their time in the metropolis, have felt as I did on this morning, when the sweet breeze, wafting the odours of the fresh-turned earth, seemed to breathe health upon the cheek, and purity and peace into the heart, they could never again declare that the country possessed no charms. Contemplate but the rising of day’s bright luminary, which in the west of England is especially glorious, making its appearance as it does from behind lofty and undulating lines of hills, overlooking the loveliest of valleys, which must in spring present more the appearance of a Syrian glen than anything I have hitherto seen. The verdant moss, the delicate white violet, and the modest primrose, which hid their loveliness beneath a variety of trees, and amongst them the first that puts forth its blossoms is the sallow, whose yellow downy buds emit a honeyed odour, all combine to constitute this beautiful part of England a very Garden of Eden in which an humble mind might dwell for ever.

The impression produced on my mind by these scenes, was very similar to that which so painfully affects the Swiss, when in a foreign country he is reminded of his wild and mountainous home. I felt all the sensations of the indescribable “mal de pays.”

But I must proceed on my journey. I entered the railway carriage, and quick as lightning sped from all those who had shewn me so much kindness and attention, and to whom I shall often travel back in thought to dwell with grateful satisfaction and delight on this happy period of my life. Should any of my readers, who have not yet visited Bath, have occasion hereafter to do so, they will not fail, as I was, to be struck with the picturesque appearance which meets the eye just before arriving at this beautiful city; the numerous pretty meadows—the spires of churches rising here and there to remind the beholder that he is in a Christian country—richly cultivated pleasure grounds surrounding neat villas—the village inn and its busy scene—carriages, omnibuses, and vehicles of every description, travelling in all directions, giving to this fair city of the west a miniature resemblance to the mighty metropolis in a far more agreeable sense.

But now the engine begins to slacken its pace; the shrill whistle sounds, and the heavy train, though seeming to grow tired yet reluctant to rest, arrives at the terminus. All now is hurry and bustle; friends, parents, assistants, are on the platform, eager to welcome or render their aid, as the case may be, yet provokingly kept back by the railings, which are pertinaciously kept for a while closed. At last all are free; and Bath, that elegant city, with its beautiful surrounding hills, and dazzling white houses, and decorated architectural public buildings, now bursts upon the view; the smoke curling upwards towards the clear atmosphere, dispersing ere it reaches the azure sky. The mildness of the climate surprised me, and particularly the warm mineral springs. There is an idea prevalent in Syria, that England being an island, there are no springs, that all the streams are brackish, and that the inhabitants are supplied with drinking-water from the clouds. On my first arrival in this country, seeing wine so plentiful and water so scarce at meals, I was inclined to believe that the supposition was a true one.

Arriving at Bath, I immediately proceeded to the house of my valued and excellent friend, Sir Claude Wade, whose services in India will deservedly hand his name down to future generations as a distinguished character in the annals of European history. The following day after my arrival was devoted to making a tour of the city, in the course of which I saw the Royal Crescent, one of the finest piles of architecture I ever beheld, commanding quite a panoramic view of the surrounding country; I also walked through the Victoria Park, and examined the column erected in commemoration of the Queen’s visit to Bath in 1839. The inhabitants express their regret that their sovereign has not since favoured their fine city with her beloved presence. The rides and promenades in and about the city are very pleasant and delightful, reminding one so much of the _agréments_ of a foreign town, that I am surprised it should not be more generally visited by the English fashionables, instead of going abroad to spend their money.

I found that the society here is on a very pleasant footing, and their genuine hospitality and kindness to me I shall remember with gratitude. Here, as well as elsewhere, there exists a great diversity of religious opinion. At one place I was asked whether I attended the High or Low Church, and imagining, at first, that they alluded to an upper or a lower part of the building, I replied that I preferred the body of the church, as I did not like mounting stairs. My answer afforded much amusement; but on discovering what was really intended by the question, I was too much occupied with thinking about the divisions amongst professing Christians to heed the smiles which I had caused.

On Sunday I attended the Octagon Chapel, to hear a celebrated young preacher, and was handed by the pew-opener into a seat where there was a charming lady, who shewed me every attention, and even gave me her own book with the different parts of the service marked. I was most sensible of her civility, and thanked her for her kindness, which she politely but distantly acknowledged. The next day, I went with my friends to Mrs. F---’s soirée, in the Circus, where, to my surprise and pleasure, I again met this houri, when we soon got into conversation. She told me how astonished she was when she heard a “Turk” read and sing, etc.; she asked me many questions regarding my opinion of England and English customs, etc., and particularly what were my first impressions on hearing the vocal music of this country. I candidly said, that it seemed to me like the howlings of my own countrymen over the bodies of departed friends; I added, however, that in my case the old proverb “use is second nature,” had proved true, for now that I had become accustomed to it, the vocal as well as instrumental music of this country possessed great charms for me, especially since I have heard the enchanting voice of Miss S---, whom I met at Mrs. B---’s. This has effected a total change in my opinions; and if I were now asked the same question, remembering these sweet sounds I allude to, I should compare hers, at least, to the song of the Bulbul. My fair questioner was highly amused at my description of “first impressions” on this subject, from which we diverged into other matters of conversation; and I finally left my kind entertainer’s house with an impression of her hospitality, and of the fair community of Bath, more agreeable than were my first impressions of English music, and certainly not so likely to be changed. I desire also publicly to thank the inhabitants of Bath generally, as well as the municipal authorities of the city, for the practical kindness I experienced from them during my visit.

As I am on the subject of Bath, I may as well mention my last visit to that gay and delightful city, in the course of which a grand ball was given by the bachelors to their friends. I was kindly invited to it by Mr. Nugent, whose zeal and activity in promoting the harmless gaieties of the place are the theme of praise with every one, and of whose polite attention to strangers I cannot speak too highly. Nothing that money and taste could effect was spared to make the ball one of the most brilliant and magnificent entertainments that I have witnessed in this country. The Rooms were celebrated, I hear, in former times as the scene where many a fair houri made her _début_ in the fashionable world, and were decorated in a style of elegance which reflected the greatest credit on the artists. I can only say, that whatever may have been their by-gone attractions, it is impossible that the display of bright eyes and graceful forms could ever have surpassed what I gazed upon that night. To attempt to describe this fairy scene would require the pen of a poet, that I might give adequate expression to my admiration of the beauty by which I was surrounded. I will quote, however, a passage from an Eastern author, which I think apropos to the occasion:—

“Their beauty is perfection, they are loveliness itself; their elegant shapes glance like javelins by moonlight; their tresses float down their backs like the tendrils of the grape; they are slayers and piercers with their arrows and their darts; archers and strikers, the enchantresses of the _minds and hearts_ of men.”

While at Bath I also had the pleasure of attending another splendid ball, given at the Guildhall by the Mayoress, Mrs. Allen, at which the _élite_ of society there were present. The amiable hostess and her lord received their guests with great kindness and affability, evincing a desire to please, which completely succeeded, for every one seemed to enjoy the dancing exceedingly, as well as the sumptuous supper. The Mayoress’ health was proposed in a suitable manner by the Marquis of Thomond, which was drunk with all the honours in sparkling champagne. During the evening, I was observing a Masonic symbol suspended over the insignia of the Mayor’s office, which led a gentleman, who was standing by, to recognise me as a brother mason. He at once introduced me to several of the brethren, and a few days afterwards I was invited by “the Lodge of Honour,” at Bath, to meet the Mayor at dinner, where we had “the feast of reason and the flow of soul?”

I shall always retain a lively recollection of the pleasure which they afforded me, and the kindness I experienced. Whilst walking out one day I encountered my friend, Dr. Thompson, whom I had known in Syria, and who hailed me in Arabic, in the words of an old Eastern proverb, viz., _that though mountains never meet_, _the sons of Eve will_. Dr. Thompson, at my request, gave two lectures, one at Cheltenham and one at Bath, the notice of which I think worthy of being inserted, {210} and I now beg to thank him for the interest he takes in the affairs of my country.

VISIT TO CHELTENHAM.

From Bath I went to the above place, and during my stay I took up my quarters at the Plough Hotel, where I was most comfortable, and received every attention from the proprietor.

I should be unmindful, and thankless indeed, were I to forget to express my grateful thanks to friends generally for the kind reception given me, and for the interest evinced on behalf of my beloved country, and I shall ever retain a lively remembrance of the Rev. J. Brown, Incumbent of Trinity Church. Wherever he is known, the deepest respect and regard are evinced towards him and his family. Oh, would that poor Syria were blessed with a few such philanthropic men with hearts and minds so capable of diffusing wisdom and knowledge wherever they go.

I shall never forget the brief address delivered by this kind-hearted man, at a lecture given by Dr. Thompson, on behalf of female education in the East. In a few words he expressed all the wants of my country, which went home to my heart. I trust that the interest shewn by all on this exciting occasion may be the means of benefiting neglected Syria, and of promoting the interest of her benighted children, as regards educational institutions. I must also here record my sincere gratitude to the Rev. C. H. Bromby, M.A., the principal of the Normal Training College. How well, and how admirably this noble school is managed! How suitable it would be to the children of Syria!

The few sentences I addressed to the meeting at Cheltenham, were expressive of my hope that they would enable me to send over for a few young Syrians of both sexes, to participate in the benefits of their college; and that it was my firm conviction the period was not far off when this institution would embrace a more extensive field of usefulness, and become the means of introducing Gospel truth and its accompanying blessings to my much loved Lebanon. Then shall the Cedar once again and for ever flourish in its native soil, spreading its luxuriant branches to shield the Thistle from all rude assaults—which may then grope even in its own humble way to thrive, and flourish, and raise its crowned head.

Visitors to Cheltenham cannot but feel deeply indebted to Lord Northwick, for his liberality in admitting them to his interesting and unique collection of paintings. I was much gratified at the privilege thus afforded me; and it is due to his Lordship to say that the arrangement of the valuable paintings is exceedingly good. Both myself and a friend, who accompanied me, were much surprised on our entrance at the extent and magnificence of the apartments, especially the modern room called the _Pantheon_; we much admired the painting of the Earl of Surrey, by Titian, and were struck with its Oriental caste of features and complexion, which called to memory some one with whom we were mutually acquainted in Syria. Our attention was next directed to the portrait of Mahomet II., and if I may judge from the engravings of this Sultan, which I have seen in the houses of some of the nobility of Turkey (before the strict prohibition of the Koran on this head), this picture is an admirable likeness of him. We are told that it was expressly painted by the artist in deference to the wishes of the Venetians, who sent Bellini to Constantinople in the year 1458 for this purpose.

The Flight into Egypt is another fine specimen of painting, and though of modern date delineates Oriental travelling; the face of the Virgin is exquisitely beautiful, and has a heavenly expression; this figure forcibly brought before me the Countess of K---, whom I had met on the day preceding my visit to this place. I would gladly have spent days instead of hours in this delightful residence, ornamented with such valuable and beautiful specimens of the fine arts; those only who come from distant lands, can fully appreciate the luxuries of all kinds which meet the eye of the spectator when in Western Europe, and especially in Great Britain. The magnificence which I encounter on all sides makes a sadness steal over me; and I cannot but lament for the barrenness of my native land, which once teemed with works, both of art and science. “How are the mighty fallen!” But hope shall shine in the Eastern skies, and the bright morning star arise again.