The Thames

CHAPTER XIX

Chapter 204,680 wordsPublic domain

OUR NATIONAL POSSESSION

The Thames is a great national possession, affording means of recreation and delight to thousands yearly. It is difficult to compare it with anything else in Great Britain. It stands by itself, and is unique. Other rivers there are, which for a small part of their course are excellent for boating; but there is nothing in England to equal the Thames, where the water is now kept at a high level, and where, for the 112 miles between London Bridge and Oxford, there is practically continuous beauty and convenience for boating. The reproach has been brought against us that we do not make full use of our river at London as the Parisians do of the Seine at Paris. But the two things are not on the same footing at all. There are many problems in connection with the Thames as a tidal river that have not to be solved by the Parisians in regard to the Seine. Perhaps if the great barrage at Gravesend, which has been discussed, ever comes into existence, we shall be able to remove the reproach, to run our steamboats to time, and to use the river as a river of pleasure, even so far down as London Bridge. There are, however, grave objections to the barrage scheme, which for the present has been set aside. Though the tides interfere with pleasure boats, they are a source of motive power for innumerable barges; the river traffic would be seriously hindered by the elimination of the element of tide, and many owners of wharves and quays would be injured by the change. There are also other difficulties. At present the sewage, after being dealt with by filtration in sewage-beds, is returned to the river, and, having been rendered innocuous, floats out to sea, and mingles with the pure water satisfactorily. It would, however, be another thing to return thousands of gallons of water, which, however innocuous, can hardly be called clean, to the great lake of fresh water the river would become if dammed up by a barrage.

Yet the continual increase in the size of ships, and the consequent demand for a river ever deeper, is a source of perplexity to the Thames Conservancy. This involves constant dredging, which would not be necessary were a perpetual high tide to be maintained. It is true that this dredging in some parts is a source of profit, not of expense. Thames gravel is exceedingly valuable, and it is found to be worth while for men not only to buy and maintain large dredgers down near the river mouth, but to pay a rent of something like £1500 to the Conservancy for the privilege of doing so! The dredging, however, is not all so profitable. Where the river-bed is slime and mud, the channel has to be kept clear by dredgers at the expense of the Conservancy, and no delightful rents accrue from the process. This dredging is altogether rather an interesting matter. In some places it is found remunerative enough for men to do it by hand for the sake of what they bring up, and they obtain leave to go dredging.

It is a fact not realised by everyone that the whole river, and all the craft upon it are under the strictest surveillance. Everything that floats must be licensed and carry its number for purposes of ready identification. The barges seen lying about in shoals near Westminster or Waterloo Bridges are not lying haphazard, but in certain specified places marked by buoys and allotted by the Conservancy, much as cabstands are allotted by the police. It is true that quays, wharves, landing stages, etc., being on land, are not subject to the Conservancy, which is in the somewhat anomalous position of dealing with the water, but not with the banks that hem it in. Yet the Conservancy manages to have a finger in this too, for suppose a man buys a bit of the river's bank, and erects a boat-building establishment thereon, he is obviously at a loss without steps down to the water or a landing place, and for this he has to pay rent to the Conservancy. The amusing part of it is that a man's property is sometimes in the air. In the case of a tree growing out of the water, it would truly tax the judgment of a Solomon to say what the rights of the Conservancy are toward that tree; but it is held that if the tree constitutes any danger or obstruction to the river-way the Conservators may insist on its being lopped. In connection with this a curious case sometimes arises. Man is always cunning where his own interests are concerned. It is not only to one man that the idea has occurred of propping up his overhanging tree by a stake. And, if the stake remains for any length of time, silt and rubbish collect between it and the shore, and eventually the island or the land of the cunning man is enlarged by a foot or two! More; sometimes stakes have been planted in the river bed with the same object without even excuse of the tree. It is the duty of the Conservancy officials to deal with all such stakes.

Whatever may be alleged as to our neglect of the river at London, no such charge can be brought against us in our appreciation of it higher up. Day by day, in the summer, hundreds enjoy the air and the brilliance and the interest of the river reaches. House-boats are moored, permission and licences having been obtained, and men and women practically live in the open air for weeks together. The house-boats are not allowed to anchor everywhere, but are allotted certain stations, due regard being had to the width of the river. If they plant themselves near private ground they must gain the permission of the owner, as well as of the Conservancy, which is quite reasonable.

To preserve an unimpeded channel may be taken as one of the great duties of the Conservancy. For this reason they have power to remove snags; to prevent the egotistical punt-fisher from placing his punt broadside in the midmost current; and to regulate the rules for the passing of craft. It is rather amusing to see sometimes how the punt man edges his craft as far from the bank as he dare before he sits down on his cane-bottomed chair and sorts out his tackle; but if a Conservancy official come along, and, eyeing him, decides, in spite of his extreme innocency and unconsciousness, that he has encroached too far, back he has to go. It is a perpetual game.

In regard to the fishing, most of the Thames is free; and the coarse fishing--bream, dace, chub, and so on--is good of its kind. Here and there, as at Hedsor, there is a bit preserved. For the commonsense view is taken that, if both banks belong to the same owner, the river bed belongs also to him, and likewise the fishing. He cannot, however, prevent boats from passing up and down the stream flowing through his property, or the highway would be a highway no more. The fishery in the Thames has of late years greatly improved, owing to the disinterested action of many clubs and associations in putting in stock which they cannot hope subsequently to reclaim, but which, once gone into the water, belongs to everyone alike. An instance of this occurred recently, when 300 trout (_Salmo fario_), about fourteen inches long, were put into the Thames at Shepperton Weir in March by the Weybridge, Shepperton, and Halliford Thames Trout Stocking Association. These trout cost 2s. 6d. each! There is good coarse fishing in nearly all parts of the Thames; bream, dace, chub, perch, and pike can generally be caught.

There are many curious and interesting points in regard to the river, and none more interesting than those relating to the tow-path. This venerable and ancient right-of-way still remains, crossing and recrossing from side to side as occasion demands, but traversable from end to end. As, however, it passes through private grounds by far the greater part of the way, it _is_ private, and yet public. Bicycles are frequently forbidden by stern notices put up by owners, who yet cannot prevent the pedestrian. The Conservancy has no power over the tow-path. What, then, happens when a part of the tow-path gives way and requires making up again? In theory it is the owner's duty to do it; but it would be expecting rather more than is warranted of human nature to expect an owner, who must regard the right-of-way with dislike and suspicion, to incur expense by mending it. As a matter of fact, if he does not do it, the Conservancy does. It may be remarked here that a very simple and effective way of embanking, known as "camp-shedding," is often employed about the river banks and the projecting points of lock islands which are liable to be carried away by the current. This consists in dropping large bags of dry cement into the water. The water itself consolidates and hardens the stuff, which becomes a splendid barrier.

There is another point in connection with the breaking away of the tow-path which is still more perplexing. Supposing it breaks away from a private owner's land in such a way that it cannot be built up again, but must be carried inland, what right has the public to say, "My right-of-way has fallen into the water, so I am going to take some of your land to replace it"? Apparently none at all. Yet the tow-path must be carried on. One wonders how, in the beginning, it was allotted to one side or the other. How was it that one owner said, "My lawns must slope right down to the water's edge; therefore I will not have the tow-path on my side; let it go upon the other?" And why has it never happened that two owners, equally strong and equally determined, have both flatly refused it? Be that as it may, the tow-path runs its tortuous but continuous course, and will continue to run as long as the river flows.

Such things as locks and weirs are, of course, entirely in the power of the Conservancy, who pay the keepers and regulate the fees. The half-tide lock at Richmond has answered admirably so far (_see_ p. 196); but the question is, Where is this sort of thing going to stop? There is an idea now of a similar lock at Wandsworth, and then we come to the matter of the barrage. We are so greedy of our river, we want it to be pent up, and not allowed to flow away to the sea. Weirs of some sort, which were at first called locks, are very ancient. In the end of the twelfth century we find orders respecting them.

Stow tells us that about the year 1578 or 1579 there were twenty-three "locks," sixteen mills, sixteen floodgates and seven weirs on the river between Maidenhead and Oxford. In the next six years thirty more locks and weirs had been made in spite of complaints that many persons had been drowned "by these stoppages of the water." He adds that "the going up the locks was so steep that every year cables had been broken that cost £400." Especial complaint was made about Marlow lock, where one man had had his brains dashed out, and Stow remarks that all the compensation the widow received was £5! The barges were not charged for going up but only for coming down, and a barge passing from Oxford to London in Stow's time paid £12 18_s._ This was in the summer, when the water was low. In 1585 a petition was made to Queen Elizabeth "in the name of the widows and fatherless children whose parents and husbands were by these means slain, against the great mischief done to her loving subjects by the great number of dangerous locks, weirs, mills and floodgates unlawfully erected in many places on the river." Queen Elizabeth must have known something of the subject from her early acquaintance with Bisham. (_See_ Chap. XI.)

In an old book of 1770 we find this passage: "The locks were machines of wood placed across the river, and so contrived to hold the water as long as convenient, that is, till the water rises to such a height as to allow of depth enough for the barge to pass over the shallows, which being effected, the water is set at liberty, and the loaded vessel proceeds on its voyage till another shoal requires the same convenience to carry it forward. This arrangement was in the summer when the water was low; in other seasons the locks were removed."

When the present locks were made they were called "pound" locks; a great many of them were opened between 1770 and 1780.

The members of the Conservancy Board go up in their launch several times a year to see that all is in order, and that their officials are doing their duty. Once a year they penetrate beyond Oxford, where the launch cannot go, and they have to take to rowing boats. They are not supposed to preserve the amenities of the river, but only its highway properties. They have no power to remove unsightlinesses, such as hideous advertisement boards; but only obstructions. Yet, in keeping the river free from sewage contamination; by forbidding the casting of refuse into the current from house-boats or elsewhere; by exercising a general jurisdiction, which makes people realise they are not free to amuse themselves to the annoyance of their neighbours--no doubt the amenities are very much more preserved than they would otherwise be.

Stow ends up his account of the river: "And thus, as this fine river is of great use and profit to the city, so the many neat towns and seats on the banks of it make it extraordinary pleasant and delightful. So that the citizens and gentlemen, nay kings, have in the summer time usually taken the air by water; being carried in boats and barges along the Thames, both upward and downward according to their pleasures."

INDEX

Abbey Hotel, Medmenham, 126

Abbey River, 165, 168

à Becket, Thomas, 67

Aberlash, 74

Abingdon, 37

Abingdon Abbey, 41

Adam, 199

Addison, 228

Albert Bridge, 223

Ankerwyke Park, 157

Archbishop Laud, 71

Arnold, Dr., of Rugby, 167

Arnold, Matthew, 5, 167

Arragon, Katherine of, 196

Arundel House, 215

Athens, 149

Bankside, 211

Barbour, Geoffrey, 39

Barges, 234

Barn Elms Park, 228

Barrage, 232

Barrington Shute, 56

Barry, 218

Battersea Bridge, 226

Baynard's Castle, 213

Bell Weir Lock, 159

Benson Lock, 59

Billingsgate, 210

Birds, 17

Birinus, 50

Bisham Abbey, 112

Bisham Church, 111

Bishop of Winchester's Palace, 212

Bishop's Park, 227

Blackfriars Bridge, 213, 214

Bloomfield, 224

Blount, Sir Arthur, 66

Boat Race, 2, 201

Boleyn, Anne, 158

Bolney Court, 84

Borlase, Sir John, 127

Boulter's Lock, 128

Bourne End, 139

Boveney Lock, 150

Boyle Farm, 185

Bradshaw, 175

Braganza, Catherine of, 230

Brandenburg House, 229

Bray, 152

Bray Lock, 151

Brent River, 200

Brentford, 200

Bridges: Battersea, 226 Blackfriars, 213, 214 Charing Cross, 216 Chelsea, 223 Folly, 25 Hammersmith, 229 Lambeth, 221 London,210 Old London, 208 Putney, 227 Tower, 210 Walton, 173 Waterloo, 216

Brightwell Barrow, 49

Buckingham, Duke of, 137

Burford Bridge, 38

Burney, Miss, 143, 199

Burton, Sir Richard, 204

Bushey Park, 181

Cæsar, Julius, 172

"Camp-shedding," 238

Canning, George, 204

Carfax Monument, 36

Carlyle, 224

Caversham, 71

Charing Cross Bridge, 216

Charles I., 65, 98, 180

Charles II., 127

Chaucer, 213

Chelsea Bridge, 223

Chelsea Embankment, 224, 225

Chertsey, 168

Chertsey Abbey, 168

Cherwell, 26

Chestnut Sunday, 181

Chiswick, 201

Chiswick House, 204

Christ's Hospital, Abingdon, 40

Cleeve Lock, 59

Cleopatra's Needle, 216

Clieveden, 136

Clifton Hampden, 45

Climenson, Mrs., 96

Coln River, 159

Compleat Angler Hotel, Marlow, 107

Congreve, 228

Conway, Field-Marshal, 102

Cookham, 138

Cooper's Hill, 146, 157

Cornish, J. C., 85

Countess of Nottingham, 195

Countess of Suffolk, 193

Cowley, 5, 6, 169, 174

Cowley Stakes, 172

Cranmer, 221

Cromwell, 55, 180

Crowmarsh, 54

Cuckoo Weir, 149

Culham, 42

Custom House, 210

Damer, Mrs., 99

Danesfield, 124

Datchet, 146

Day, Thomas, 82

Day's Lock, 47

Denham, 5, 24

Denham, Sir John, 146

Despencer, Lord Le, 126

Ditton House, 185

Donne, Dr., 190

Dorchester, 49

Dorchester Abbey, 51

Dowgate, 213

D'Oyley, Robert, 53

D'Oyley, Sir Cope, 103

Drayton, 4, 5, 22

Dredging, 233

Druce, Claridge G., 32, 62

Duc d'Aumale, 192

Duchess of York, 171

Dudley, Robert, 196

Duke of Buckingham, 137

Duke of Gloucester, 192

Duke of Marlborough, 150

Duke of York, 172

Duke's Meadows, 201

Durham House, 216

Dyers' Company, 122

Earl of Essex, 196

Earl of Leicester, 215

Edward IV., 213

Edward VI., 180

Edward Plantagenet, 113

Edward the Confessor, 140

Eel-pie Island, 191

Eights, The, 28

Eliot, George, 227

Embankment, The, 214

Empress Maud, 67

Essex, Earl of, 196

Essex House, 215

Eton, 7, 148

Evelyn, 229

Exe River, 175

Fair Maid of Kent, 54

Faringford, Hugh, 69

Fawley Court, 101, 102

Ferry Hotel, Cookham, 138

Fielding, Henry, 8, 190

Fingest, 103

Fishing, 236

Fleet River, 213

Floods, 217

Flora of Oxfordshire, 62

Folly Bridge, 25

Forbury Public Garden, Reading, 70

Fox, Charles James, 169, 204

Frogmill, 125

Fulham Palace, 228

Fuller, 67, 152, 198

Garrick's Villa, 183

Gaunt, John of, 67, 216

Gaveston, Piers, 54

Gay, 190, 193

General description, 9 ff

George III., 98

George IV., 98, 172

George Hotel, Bray, 154

George Hotel, Wargrave, 82

Gloucester, Duke of, 192

Goring, 57

Goring Church, 61

Gray, 5

Great Hall, Westminster, 219

Great Marlow, 106

Great Western Railway, 8

Greenhill, 60

Greenlands, 103

Greenwich Palace, 6

Grey, Lady Jane, 198

Gwynne, Nell, 127

Halliford, 175

Ham House, 191, 193

Hambleden, 103

Hammersmith Bridge, 229

Hampton, 177

Hampton Court, 6, 178

Hampton Green, 182

Hardwicke House, 65

Harp Hill, 48

Hartslock Woods, 62

Hedsor Church, 138

Henley, 97

Henley Regatta, 3, 100

Henry I., 42, 141, 195

Henry V., 195

Henry VI., 169

Henry VII., 195

Henry VIII., 68, 158, 178

Hoby, Sir Thomas, 111

Hogarth, 6, 183, 204

Holme Park, 75

Home Park, 145

Hook, Theodore, 184

Horton, 158

Hotels, 18

House-boats, 235

Houses of Parliament, 218

Howard, Katherine, 198

Hurley, 116

Hurlingham Club, 227

Hurst Park Racecourse, 182

Icknield Street, 59

Iffley, 29

Isleworth, 197

James II., 221

James Stuart, 143

Joan, 54

John, 78, 156, 213

Johnson, Dr., 183

Jones, Inigo, 199

Juxon, 221

Kelmscott Press, 230

Kempenfelt, Admiral, 120

Kew Gardens, 199

Kew Observatory, 197

Kew Palace, 6

_Kingis Quair_, 144

King's Stone, 187

Kingston, 186

Kingston Rowing Club, 186

Kit-Kat Club, 228

Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 190, 191, 228

Lady Place, 116

Laleham, 161, 167

Lambeth Bridge, 221

Lambeth Palace, 221

Laud, Archbishop, 71, 221, 228

Leicester, Earl of, 215

Leicester House, 215

Leland, 78

Llyn-din, 212

Locks, 239 Bell Weir, 159 Benson, 59 Boulter's, 128 Boveney, 150 Bray, 157 Cleeve, 59 Marsh, 102 Teddington, 187 Temple, 115

Loddon River, 92

London and South Western Railway, 9

London Bridge, 210

London Stone, 159

Long Ditton, 185

Long Mead, 157

Louis Philippe, 192

Lower Hope, 149

Lower Mall, 230

Macaulay, 120

Magna Charta Island, 155

Maidenhead, 132

Mapledurham House, 65, 66

Marble Hill, 193

Marlborough, Duke of, 98, 150

Marryat, 230

Marsh Lock, 102

Medmenham Abbey, 125

Merchant Taylors' School, 213

Milton, 5, 7, 158

Mole River, 184

Molesey Lock, 182

Molesey Regatta, 184

Mongewell, 56

Monkey Island, 150

Monmouth House, 225

Montfichet, 213

Moore, Thomas, 185, 188

More, Sir Thomas, 225

Morris, William, 230

Mortlake, 202

Mount Lebanon, 192

Naval Volunteer Training Ship, 214

New Cut, 27

Northumberland Avenue, 218

Northumberland House, 218

Nottingham, Countess of, 195

Nuneham Courtney, 35

Oatlands Park, 171, 174

Obstructions, 234

Old Deer Forest, 197

Old London Bridge, 208

Old Windsor, 146

Orleans House, 191

Oxford, 7

Oxford Meadows, 32

Pang River, 64

Pangbourne, 63

Park Place, 102

Parr, Catherine, 225

Penton Hook, 161

Pepys, 229

Phyllis Court, 101, 102

Pope, 5, 6, 145, 190, 193, 204

Pope's Villa, 189

Prince de Joinville, 192

Prince Henry, 193

Princess Elizabeth, 225

Puddle Dock, 213

Punting competition, 170

Putney Bridge, 227

Quarry Woods, 109

Queen Anne, 192

Queen Caroline, 229

Queen Eleanor, 213

Queen Elizabeth, 70, 113, 240

Queen Mary, 180

Queen Maud, 54

Queenhithe, 213

Radley College Boat-house, 34

Ranelagh, 223, 228

Raven's Ait, 186

Ray Mead Hotel, Maidenhead, 135

Reading Abbey, 67

Reading Castle, 70

Red Lion Hotel, Henley, 98

Richard II., 195

Richard III., 213

Richmond, 194

Richmond Palace, 6, 195

Rivers: Abbey, 165, 168 Brent, 200 Coln, 159 Exe, 175 Fleet, 213 Loddon, 92 Mole, 184 Pang, 64 Thame, 52 Wandle, 227 Wey, 173

Robsart, Amy, 196

Rodney, Admiral, 175

Romney Island, 148

Rose Garden, Sonning, 72

Rossetti, 227

Royal Hospital, Chelsea, 223

Runney Mead, 156

Rupert, Prince, 201

St. Anne's Hill, 170

St. Helen's Nunnery, Abingdon, 40

St. Mary Overies, 210

St. Patrick's Stream, 92

St. Saviour's, 210

St. Thomas's Hospital, 221

Salisbury House, 216

Sandford, 33

Savoy, The, 216

Scotland Yard, 218

Seagulls, 218

Seymour, Thomas, 225

Shelley, 106

Shenstone, 99

Shepperton, 170, 175

Shiplake, 95

Shrewsbury House, 225

Sinodun Hill, 48

Skindle's Hotel, Maidenhead, 133

Smith, Rt. Hon. W. H., 103

Smith, Sydney, 78

Smollett, 225

Somerset, Lord-Protector, 198, 215

Somerset House, 214

Sonning, 72

Spenser, 5, 213, 215

Staines, 159

Star and Garter Hotel, Richmond, 194

Steele, 228

Stephen, 54

Stokenchurch, 103

Stow, 239

Strawberry Hill, 188

Streatley, 57

Sunbury, 175

Surbiton, 186

Surley Hill, 150

Sutton Courtney, 43

Sutton Pool, 43

Swan Hotel, Thames Ditton, 184

Swans, 121

Swift, 190, 193

Syon House, 197

Tagg's Island, 182

Taplow, 132

Tate Gallery, 223

Teddington Lock, 187

Temple, 214

Temple Island, 101

Temple Lock, 115

Temple Mill, 115

Tennyson, 95, 191

Terry, Ellen, 166

Thame, The, 52

Thames Conservancy, 233

Thames, derivation of, 4

Thames Ditton, 184

Thames Gardens, 19

Thomson, 6, 137, 230

Thorney Island, 222

Torpids, The, 29

Tow-path, 237

Tower, 210

Tower Bridge, 210, 211

Tower Royal, 213

Turner, 173, 191, 226, 230

Twickenham, 191

Twickenham Reach, 188

Upper Hope, 149

Upper Mall, 230

Upper Thames Sailing Club, 139

Vanbrugh, 228

Vauxhall Bridge, 223

Vintners' Company, 122

Walbrook, 208

Walbrook Wharf, 212

Walker, Frederick, 153

Wallingford, 53

Walpole, Horace, 6, 183, 189, 228

Walton Bridge, 173

Walton Church, 174

Walton, Izaak, 147

Wandle River, 227

Wandsworth, 227

Warbeck, Perkin, 196

Wargrave, 80

Warwick, "King Maker," 113

Waterloo Bridge, 216

Watermen, 206

Weirs, 239

Westminster Abbey, 222

Westminster Bridge, 220

Westminster Palace, 6

Wey River, 171

Weybridge, 170, 171

Whitchurch, 63

Whitehall, 218

Whitehall Palace, 6

White Hart Hotel, Sonning, 74

Whitehill, 60

Wigod, 53

William the Conqueror, 53, 141

William III., 141, 180

Winchester House, 225

Windsor Castle, 140

Wittenham, Little, 47

Wittenham Woods, 47

Wolsey, 178

Worcester House, 216

Wordsworth, 220

Wotton, Sir Henry, 147

Wren, Sir Christopher, 181, 182

Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 210

York, Duchess of, 171

York, Duke of, 172

York House, 191, 217

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