Category: Travel Writing

The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca

FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRÂCE.--ROUEN.--THE CATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OF ENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST CATHERINE.--THE SEINE.--NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.--LISIEUX.--STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON 1

Chapters

29. CHAPTER X.

Oh! Toledo, imperial city, beloved of the old Goth, rich home of the Moor and Jew,[18] and chosen throne of the Emperor of the West,[19] how art thou fallen! And yet thy destiny...

24. CHAPTER V.

AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--VALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THE COLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONVENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OF HORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.-...

21. CHAPTER III.

THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FOR SPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTER IN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--S...

22. CHAPTER IV.

BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISH CHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONVENT OF LA CARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE...

30. CHAPTER XI.

Allons donc, en route for the Balearic Isles, or the Baleares, the birth-place of the great Hannibal, and for Palma, the capital, situated in the south-western portion of the is...

26. CHAPTER VII.

MADRID.--GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.--THE PICTURE-GALLERY.--PASTIMES AND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEÑOS.--THE BATH AND TOILET.--QUEEN ISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.--THE VIRGIN'S WARDR...

37. CHAPTER XVIII.

When at last the train stopped in the outskirts of Gerona, we mounted on the top of an omnibus and were whirled off through a boulevard of plane trees, in which were groups of v...

25. CHAPTER VI.

EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.--TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.--GEOLOGICAL CONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.--A STATION IN THE WILDERNESS.--AVILA.--A FUNERAL.--THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.--THE ADUA...

31. CHAPTER XII.

THE VALE OF SOLLER.--CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.--INTRODUCTION OF THE TELEGRAPH.--SUPERSTITION OF THE PEASANTRY.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.--THE ROAD.--GUARDIA CIVIL.--OBLIGING LA...

20. CHAPTER II.

LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THE LUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRAL OF ST. JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULÊME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTE FOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A L...

36. CHAPTER XVII.

Barcelona, once the rival of Venice, and now the chief sea-port of Spain, seems to be a bright, clean, and prosperous city. Its aspect, so far at least as regards its principal...

33. CHAPTER XIV.

Bull-fights, although we are told they are condemned by the priests, are still the fashion in Spain. They are the national _fiesta_, and to see the Spanish public in their natur...

27. CHAPTER VIII.

THE ESCORIAL.--ITS PRECINCTS.--SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THE EDIFICE.--MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.--MELANCHOLY GUIDE.--SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.--ROYAL REMAINS.--CHARLES V.--PHI...

19. CHAPTER I.

FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRÂCE.--ROUEN.--THE CATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OF ENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST. C...

35. CHAPTER XVI.

We departed from Valencia, regretting to quit so soon a city where there was so much that was attractive. The train moved off, and after we had proceeded a short distance the ni...

34. CHAPTER XV.

Throughout Spain, as we have observed, and as all travellers will notice when they visit that country, innumerable vile odours prevail everywhere and are one of the most unpleas...

28. CHAPTER IX.

A BULL-FIGHT.--THE ARENA.--THE SPECTATORS.--PROCESSION.--THE BULL.--APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.--NIMBLE FOOTMEN.--THE COMBAT.--SCENE OF HORROR.--THE BANDERILLEROS.--THE ES...

32. CHAPTER XIII.

THE PORT OF SOLLER.--CONVENT OF LLUCH.--A LEGEND OF THE MONASTERY.--CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.--REMAINS OF KING JAYME II.--ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.--MINORCA.--ITS CONNECTION...

23. dim. The choir is entirely surrounded by tall brass railings of

exquisite workmanship; and in the fifteen chapels, each enclosing objects of marvellous interest or beauty, the altars are supported by jasper pillars and columns of rarest marb...

1. CHAPTER I.

FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRÂCE.--ROUEN.--THE CATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OF ENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST CA...

7. CHAPTER VII.

MADRID.--GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.--THE PICTURE-GALLERY.--PASTIMES AND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEÑOS.--THE BATH AND TOILET.--QUEEN ISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.--THE VIRGIN'S WARDR...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

THE ESCORIAL.--ITS PRECINCTS.--SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THE EDIFICE.--MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.--MELANCHOLY GUIDE.--SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.--ROYAL REMAINS.--CHARLES V.--PHI...

3. CHAPTER III.

THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FOR SPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTER IN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--S...

4. CHAPTER IV.

BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISH CHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONVENT OF LA CARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE...

5. CHAPTER V.

AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--VALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THE COLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONVENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OF HORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.-...

6. CHAPTER VI.

EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.--TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.--GEOLOGICAL CONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.--A STATION IN THE WILDERNESS.--AVILA.--A FUNERAL.--THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.--THE ADUA...

2. CHAPTER II.

LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THE LUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRAL OF ST. JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULÊME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTE FOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A L...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

THE PORT OF SOLLER.--CONVENT OF LLUCH.--A LEGEND OF THE MONASTERY.--CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.--REMAINS OF KING JAYME II.--ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.--MINORCA.--ITS CONNECTION...

9. CHAPTER IX.

A BULL-FIGHT.--THE ARENA.--THE SPECTATORS.--PROCESSION.--THE BULL.--APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.--NIMBLE FOOTMEN.--THE COMBAT.--SCENE OF HORROR.--THE BANDERILLEROS.--THE ES...

12. CHAPTER XII.

THE VALE OF SOLLER.--INTRODUCTION OF THE TELEGRAPH.--SUPERSTITION OF THE PEASANTRY.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.--THE ROAD.--GUARDIA CIVIL.--OBLIGING LANDLADY.--BRIDGE OF LA MÀ.-...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

ANCIENT BRIDGE OF GERONA.--THE POPULATION.--A FIESTA.--SEARCH FOR AN HOTEL.--THE FONDA DE LA ESTRELLA.--LAST SIEGE OF GERONA.--THE CATHEDRAL.--A FEW CONCLUDING WORDS ON SPAIN 313

15. CHAPTER XV.

11. CHAPTER XI.

14. CHAPTER XIV.

10. CHAPTER X.

16. CHAPTER XVI.

17. CHAPTER XVII.