Chapter 13

To the cyclist on tour, Limerick and the surrounding districts offer many scenic attractions in wood, lake, and river. The roads are not good as a rule, owing in a great measure, to the fact that the city is the centre of a large agricultural district. The hotels in the city are good, and in the surrounding towns and villages the tourist will find good accommodation in hotels and otherwise.

~One Day Tours from Limerick.~

No. 1.--Perhaps the easiest one day tour which the cyclist can enjoy from Limerick, as his head quarters, is to Doonass Falls _via_ Clonlara. Five miles thence by O'Brien's Bridge, 7 miles, to Killaloe, where an excellent lunch can be had. The return home can be made by Castleconnell, the popular resort of the devotees of "Izaak Walton," where an excellent tea can be had at the Shannon Hotel.

No. 2.--Castleconnell and Clare Glens, and lengthened visit to Castleconnell to view the waterfalls, "The World's End"--a remarkably fine reach of the River Shannon. There is much to interest the visitor in the gigantic eel fishery, and here also is the renowned Enright, whose fishing rods are used all over the world. The Clare Glen, situated by the way in Limerick county, is not far from Castleconnell; and if liberty is obtained beforehand, the Glenstal Demesne, seat of the Barrington family, can be visited. Sir Charles Barrington, the present baronet, has never yet refused permission to the cycling tourist to view the charming scenery surrounding the Glenstal Castle.

No. 3.--Askeaton, 16-1/2 miles, splendid road, one of the best from Limerick; famous old abbey to be visited, with excellent fishing on the Deel, granted that the tourist has obtained the requisite permission.

No. 4.--Adare, 9 miles; roads pretty good. Mr. P. Fitzgerald, J.P., Agent to Lord Dunraven, should be written to beforehand for a permit to visit the demesne, where some fine old ruins are in an excellent state of preservation. The Manor House is a magnificent building, but visitors are only allowed to enter when the family are away. This is well known as the district which inspired Gerald Griffin to write one of his famous poems. Lunch can be had at very moderate terms at the Dunraven Arms Hotel. The demesne wall turns eastward to Croom. The name of this village is derived from the old war cry of the Geraldines, "Munster Branch "--_Crom-a-boo_. To Limerick, from Croom, _via_ Patrick's Well, there is a pretty good road, 10 miles.

~Two Days Tours from Limerick.~

Ballybunion. Good roads generally, but slightly up-hill when the Kingdom is reached. This charming seaside resort is rapidly coming to rival Kilkee. It has splendid bathing accommodation, and the coast scenery and caves equal to those of any other watering place in Ireland. The visitor for the first time makes his acquaintance with the Lartique, or "Single Line," Railway--the only one in the United Kingdom--from Listowel to Ballybunion, a distance of 8 miles.

Returning to Limerick, a digression can be made to Shanid Castle, near Shanagolden. This towering mass of masonry, perched high on a hill--three sides of which are precipitous--is almost ignored by tourists. It was one of the strongholds of the Desmonds. The other spots on the Shannon--homeward bound--are Glinn, where the hereditary Knight of Glin has his seat, and where Gerald Griffin resided in his young days, near the pretty little village of Loughill. Foynes and Foynes Island, seat of Sir Aubrey de Vere, will repay a visit. Hotels are good on this line, also roads.

No. 2.--Waterford and Tramore. Decent roads and accommodation, as good as can be got once outside Limerick county, border at the Limerick Junction, a distance of 20 miles from the Treaty Stone. Splendid views of the Galtee ranges can be had, and on towards Clonmel the wooded slopes of the minor ranges and hills are a delightful picture. If time affords, the tourist can digress from the main road and visit the famous Glen of Aherlow. Back to Tipperary for lunch, good hotels, and splendid roads. Visit the Kickham monument, and then on to Clonmel. Excellent accommodation to be had at Clonmel. Next day Waterford and Tramore, and back.

~Tours for Three or more Days from Limerick.~

Ballybunion, Tarbert, Kilrush, Kilkee, Lisdoonvarna, from Ballybunion. See "No. 1 Day Tours." Tarbert is only a few miles from Ballybunion. There is a steamboat service across the Shannon estuary to Kilrush. Thence to Kilkee by road, where first night out can be had. Next day to Spanish Point, Milltownmalbay, Lisdoonvarna, to the famous "Spa"; home _via_ Ennis, splendid roads.

No. 2.--Killaloe, Scariff, Portumna, and Upper Shannon. A most enjoyable trip can be had from Killaloe. See "No. 1 Day Tour." There is a constant steamboat service on Lough Derg, which will take a cyclist and his machine, and land him at Scariff--on the Clare side--or Portumna, "Galway." From either of these towns a tourist can have his chance of the most diversified lake and river scenery to be had in the kingdom. Without doubt the praises of Lough Derg and the Upper Shannon have not been sung sufficiently. From Portumna to Dromineer, on the Tipperary shore, by lake steamer, thence to Nenagh on bike; splendid roads home to Limerick, 27 miles.

~KILLARNEY DISTRICT.~

Killarney is an ideal centre for the cyclist. Good roads proceed in every direction, and mounted on his favourite machine the wheelman will be able to discover and investigate scenic treasures unknown to the ordinary tourist.

~One Day Tours from Killarney.~

No. 1.--Killarney to Gap of Dunloe, 10 miles; Owenreagh Glen, 18 miles; Windy Gap, 30 miles. Killarney, total, 36 miles. Care should be taken to keep on the proper road through the Glen; there are many crossings. Any of the local folk will point out the road.

No. 2.--Killarney to Torc Waterfall, 3 miles; return to Muckross Hotel, 4 miles; enter demesne at Dinis, 10 miles; on to Kenmare road and home to Killarney, 17 miles. The road through Muckross Demesne is in some places dangerous owing to its steep and winding character.

No. 3.--Killarney to Ross Castle, 1-1/2 miles; through demesne to Library Point, 2-1/2 miles. Back through Ross Island and demesne to Mahony's Point, 9-1/2 miles; Killarney, 12-1/2 miles. This road is perfectly safe and good, except two descents in Ross Island. Returning from Mahony's Point to Killarney by Aghadoe, about 15 miles, splendid view of Lower Lake and mountains can be had from the old ruins of Aghadoe.

No. 4.--Killarney to Glenflesk _via_ Lough Guittane. Visit Robbers' Den, 9 miles, home _via_ Headford and Barraduff, 26 miles. Roads good, scenery wild and romantic. There are many short and beautiful trips which can be made in and about the neighbourhood.

~Two Day Tours from Killarney.~

No. 1.--Killarney to Windy Gap, 16 miles; thence to Parknasilla across mountain. Total, 30 miles. Remain for night at Southern Hotel, Parknasilla. Parknasilla to Kenmare, 14 miles, and back to Killarney _via_ Kilgarvan. Total, 35 miles. Roads fairly good, but in places very steep, so that riders must keep a careful watch.

No. 2.--Killarney to Beaufort, 6 miles; thence to Glencar, 19 miles, and on to Caragh Lake Hotel, 27 miles. Remain at Caragh Lake Hotel for the night. Return to Killarney _via_ Windy Gap and Gerah Cross. There are some sharp turns and steep descents requiring care.

~Tours for Three or more Days from Killarney.~

No. 1.--Killarney to Kenmare, 20 miles. Thence by Glengarriff, 40 miles, to Macroom, _via_ Inchigeela, Pass of Keimaneigh to Millstreet, and back to Killarney. Hotels at Kenmare (Southern Hotel), Glengarriff, Inchigeela, Macroom, and Millstreet.

No. 2.--Killarney to Killorglin. Caragh Lake, Cahirciveen, visit Valentia, Waterville, Parknasilla, Kenmare, and back to Killarney by either rail or road.

~WATERFORD DISTRICT.~

Waterford can be recommended as a cycling centre, as the scenery in many districts of the South-east of Ireland is beautiful in the extreme, and can compare favourably with any in the country, and the roads are first rate. The hotels, too, are generally very good, and have been improved wonderfully of late, and the tariffs have been so arranged by the South-eastern Branch of the Irish Cyclist Association, that all requirements of the most slender purse can be satisfactorily arranged.

Below we sketch out a few very enjoyable Tours which can be made, taking Waterford as the starting point:--

~First Tour from Waterford.~

Leaving-Waterford by the Newtown-road, we pass the house in which Lord Roberts spent his early days, and where his father and mother lived for many years. This is actually in the Borough and, from the grounds surrounding it, a capital view of the river and part of the City can be had. After passing by Newtown we keep along to the left until Parkswood is reached, when we run under a bridge and up a hill to Checkpoint, and here a magnificent view can be obtained. From the hill overlooking this pretty little village seven counties can be seen. Dunbrody Abbey, one of the most famous ecclesiastical ruins in Ireland, is situated immediately opposite on the other side of the river. Duncannon Fort, a short distance from here, comes into view, and we are enabled to see the joining of the three rivers--Suir, Nore, and Barrow. We pass from Checkpoint, and we reach Passage, a famous fishing station since the herring industry has become so prosperous in this part of Ireland. A little further on is Woodstown, and right opposite on the far side of the river can be seen Duncannon Fort, a fortified place in the days of old. Turning to the right by Ballyglan, we mount a steep incline, and we then come in view of Hook Tower, a beacon light which is said to be the oldest in the kingdom. Dunmore, about five miles from Woodstown, is one of the most picturesque, beautiful, and delightful resorts in the whole of Ireland. Here there is a magnificent pier, and boating and fishing can be enjoyed to one's heart's content. Wheeling back in the Waterford direction we make for Tramore, ten miles away. It is beautifully situated, and the visitor here can spend several hours in viewing the most attractive scenery. Close to the town are the Golf Links and the Race Course.

From Tramore to Waterford the run is over a splendid level road, and the distance seven miles.

The full distance of this run is 33 miles, and at all the principal points capital hotel accommodation can be had.

~Tour Two, from Waterford.~

The first part of this run is to Passage. At the Half-way House take the turn over the bridge, up the hill and down a steep decline to Passage. At the latter place the ordinary ferryboat can be taken to Ballyhack, which is directly opposite. The run from Ballyhack to Duncannon is over a fairly surfaced road. At the latter place M'Gonnigal's hotel is well appointed. From Duncannon the run to the famous Hook Tower is about seven miles, and the surface of the road generally is very good. Along this run a splendid view of the Harbour can be obtained, and on the way there are several places of interest--Loftus Hall, the Irish seat of the Marquis of Ely, stands on the edge of the river unprotected by a single tree. It was modernised within the last 25 years, and is now a splendidly appointed mansion. Bag-an-Bun, a little distance off, will well repay a visit--the coast line at this point being the principal attraction. From Hook we run to Fethard, 6 miles to the left, and here a very pleasant hour can be spent. Tintern Abbey is the next point to be visited. This is one of the most famous Abbeys in the country. From Tintern to Dunbrody the distance is 8 miles, and here we can spend a considerable time in viewing the great historical ruin, said to be one of the finest in the whole of Ireland. Leaving Dunbrody we come to the ferry of Ballinlaw, and crossing here ride by Snow-hill and Bellview into Waterford. The full distance of this ride is 41 miles.

~Tour Three from Waterford.~

Proceeding up the Cork road we ride up Ballyaneeshagh Hill, and on the left see Butlerstown Castle, an ancient building: which, in the days of Cromwell, held out for sometime against his forces. At the Sweep we turn round to the right and run to the bottom of the hill. A little way from the end of the hill the right turn is to be taken again to Kilmeaden, 8 miles. The ride then is to Portlaw four miles away. Some fifty years ago this town was the seat of a great cotton industry. It has since fallen into decay, and the place looks like Goldsmith's "Deserted Village." Just outside the town is the magnificent demesne of Curraghmore, said to be the finest in the three kingdoms. The variety of scenery here is almost unsurpassed. Curraghmore is the property of the Marquis of Waterford. It is one of the great points of vantage to tourists and pic-nic parties. Passing through the demesne we come to the house itself, a modern and rather unpretentious structure. The court-yard is, however, very large, and is said to be capable of accommodating close upon 100 horses. Clonegam Church, where Lord William Beresford, uncle to the present Marquis of Waterford, was laid to rest, can be seen on the right glistening in the trees on the hill side. Through Curraghmore we ride to Clonea, about 5 miles further on, and then to the foot of the Comeragh Mountains, which occupy a centre of the county, and which are to be seen from all parts, as well as from a considerable portion of Tipperary. The greatest natural curiosity in this range is the appearance and site of an almost circular lake, by name Coomshinawin. From Coomshinawin to Kilmacthomas the distance is about 8 miles. Kilmacthomas Woollen Factory may be visited, and a good hotel accommodation can be had at Walsh's. From Kilmacthomas to Waterford is 16-1/2 miles over a good road, the full distance being 45 miles.

~Tour Four, from Waterford.~

Our next tour will be from Waterford, _via_ the Sweep, to Knockaderry, 9 miles away. At the latter place there is a very fine lake which amply supplies the City. Leaving Knockaderry we reach Dunhill, close to which place is the Castle of Donile, still distinguished for its peculiar and romantic situation, and in ancient times the property of De-La-Poer, from whom the present Marquis is descended. The village of Annestown, distant about one mile, is on the sea coast, and from it a magnificent view of rock and ocean scenery can be had. The run from Annestown to Tramore is over a beautiful road, and many pretty views of the coast can be seen. The spin to Waterford completes this tour, which is one of nearly thirty miles.

~Two Day Tours from Waterford. No. 1.~

Waterford, Dunmore, Annestown, Bonmahon, Stradbally, and Dungarvan.

FIRST DAY.

This is rather a long run of 47 miles, but as the roads are generally good and the scenery delightful it should be most enjoyable to the Cyclist who may feel in good form. We have already spoken of Annestown. From Annestown to Bonmahon the distance is over 5 miles. The road is very hilly, but the surface is splendid. At Bonmahon the once famous Knockmahon Mines are situated. These mines were the most valuable in the country about fifty years ago, but when the value of the metal (copper) fell operations were discontinued. Stradbally, 4 miles further on, is a delightful little village, said to be the most health-restoring place on the south-eastern coast. Here Whelan's Hotel is recommended. Dungarvan is 8 miles further on, and the road by the sea is well surfaced and very picturesque. At Dungarvan Lawlor's Hotel will be found very comfortable.

SECOND DAY.

A good run can be taken through Ardmore, Youghal, Lismore, and Cappoquin, part of which tour embraces the delightful Valley of the Blackwater. This complete run will tot about 50 miles.

At Ardmore a very comfortable hotel is kept by Miss Prendergast. At Youghal, the Greenpark Hotel is a capital one. In Lismore, the Devonshire Arms and Blackwater Vale Hotels are recommended; and Kenny's at Cappoquin is also a good one.

~Two Day Tours from Waterford. No. 2.~

FIRST DAY.

Piltown to Curraghmore, round by Coomshinawin. This complete run will be about 40 miles. The roads generally are capital, and the scenery as fine as can be seen in this part of the country.

SECOND DAY.

From Dungarvan, round by Ballymacarbery, Newcastle, Ardfinan, Clogheen, Melleray Abbey, to Dungarvan. This ride runs close upon 60 miles, and to undertake it the tourist must have been in cycling form for a considerable time. The roads, however, are generally very good. Ballymacarbery is 15 miles from Dungarvan; Ardfinan, about 26; then from Ardfinan to Clogheen the ride is 6 miles, and from that to Melleray about 13. At Melleray, from the Abbey, a grand view can be had of some of the most beautiful scenery in the whole of the county.

The following are the best places of refreshment _en route_:--Ballymacarbery (Miss Power's), Newcastle, and Ardfinan. Two good licensed houses. Clogheen--The Hotel. Melleray--The traveller will always be hospitably received here.

~Three or more Day Tours from Waterford. No. 1.~

Waterford, Dunmore, 11; Tramore, 22; Dunhill, 27; Annestown, 28; Bonmahon, 34; Stradbally, 38; and Dungarvan, 47 miles.

SECOND AND THIRD DAYS

To Dungarvan--have been previously referred to.

Instead of returning to Waterford by rail, the tourist on the fourth day may enjoy a most entertaining tour, _via_ the Pike, Coomshinawin--previously referred to--Curraghmore, Piltown, and Waterford. This run measures something like 40 miles.

~Three or more Day Tours from Waterford, No. 2.~

Waterford, Mullinavat, 8; Ballyhack, 16; Stoneyford, 21; Danesfort, 25; Kilkenny, 30; Thomastown, 40; and Inistioge, 47-1/2 miles.

SECOND DAY.

New Ross, 10; Waterford, 33; and Rosslare, 42 miles.

THIRD DAY.

Lady's Island, 4; Kilmore, 11; Fethard, 20; Hooktower, 26; Duncannon, 35; and Waterford, 46 miles.

This latter tour embraces some of the finest scenery on the south-eastern coast, and the inland scenery at Inistioge is equal to any to be seen in any part of Ireland.

_IMPORTANT NOTE._

The tariffs for Members of the Irish Cyclists' Association and Cyclists' Touring-Club are at most of the hotels in the south-eastern districts:--

Breakfast.--Tea, coffee, or cocoa, with bread and butter, toast and preserve, ham and eggs, chops, steaks, cold meat, or fish, _2s._ Substantial Luncheon, _1s. 6d._ Table d'Hote Dinner, 2_s._ 6_d._ Bed, _2s. 6d._

~SLIGO DISTRICT.~

(FROM MECREDY'S ROAD BOOK).

~One Day Tour from Sligo. No. 1.~

Sligo, Dromahaire, 12; Ballysadare, 24; Knockanree Glen, 28; Sligo, 33.

Keeping along the north shore of the lake, Hazlewood Park, 2 miles from Sligo, is well worth visiting. The public are admitted, and the tourist should ride right down to the shore, which is here very beautiful. The road now winds over the hills, and is undulating with fairly good but rather loose surface, and it is some miles until the lake is reached again. The scene here is indescribably beautiful, and reminds one forcibly of Killarney. The lake is studded with islands, and the shores are densely wooded, whilst northwards extends one of the most fascinating districts we have ever toured in. It consists of a regular jumble of mountains, densely wooded, and often most precipitous. The gapes of the hills are extremely picturesque, and the scene can be revisited time and again without its palling. Those who would like to thoroughly explore this lovely neighbourhood should stop at Dromahaire, where they will find a most excellent hotel, remarkable alike for moderate charges and a cuisine which could not be surpassed. There is also an ancient abbey here, well worthy of inspection. Dromahaire is some little distance from the lake, and on leaving it the road, now excellent, winds round a mountain, and a few miles farther, after taking a sharp turn to the right, reaches the lake shore again at its southern-most point. Farther on it branches inland again, and at a point 2 miles from Sligo a sharp turn to the left has to be taken for Ballysadare, and if time permits the tourist might proceed on through Collooney to Mackree Castle (3 miles), which will mean an addition of 6 miles to the day's ride. At Ballysadare there are some really beautiful waterfalls. Retracing your steps towards Sligo for a short distance, proceed along the north shore of Ballysadare Bay. The road is good. Presently it begins to ascend a spur of Knockanree Hill, and a narrow lane and gate to the right admit to the Glen of the same name. It should on no account be missed. It is one of the most extraordinary natural phenomenon we have ever seen, and is exceedingly beautiful besides. It is very narrow, densely wooded, and the sides are quite precipitous. The path wanders through a wealth of undergrowth, and in most places we fancy the Glen is not forty feet wide, while here and there it is much narrower. In some of these spots the foliage actually meets overhead, and we noticed in one place a fallen tree had made a natural bridge across. Just at the beginning of the Glen there is a little glade where a house once stood.

Keeping-round Knockanree Hill the road comes out on the shore of Sligo Bay. The surface is excellent, and the scenery pretty right into Sligo.

~One Day Tour from Sligo. No. 2.~

Sligo, Drumcliff, 5; Carney, 7; Lissadill House, 9; Carney, 11; Drumcliff, 13; Rathcormack Chapel, 14; Glencar, 18-1/2; Manorhamilton, 27, Sligo, 41.

The road is indifferent for some miles, but gradually improves. At Drumcliff there is an interesting round tower. Lissadill House is delightfully situated on the seashore. The grounds are open to the public, and it is a very pleasant ride through on the well-kept avenues.

Retracing your steps to the main road, after passing Rathcormack Chapel, turn off to the left for Glencar, along a fairly level by-road, with fast, but stony, surface. After 2 miles turn to the left again. In due course Glencar is reached. Keeping along the north shore of the lake an extraordinary waterfall will be seen on the left. A thin sheet of water falls from the top of the cliff, and when the wind is from a particular quarter it catches the falling water every few minutes, and scattering it in minute particles makes it have the appearance of being suddenly cut off. Then all of a sudden it comes with a rush again, and apparently with renewed vigour. It is a very strange phenomenon, and fascinating withal.

Wheeling along the shores of the lake we come to a larger waterfall at the extreme extremity, to which our measurement of 18-1/2 miles is taken. There is a fine volume of water here, and the neighbourhood being well wooded, gives a pretty effect. A cup of tea can be had at Mr. Siberry's, hard by.

From this on to Manorhamilton the road, though good, is uninteresting, but if time presses the cyclist can ride direct back to Sligo, round Glencar Lake. By adopting this route, however, some beautiful scenery will be missed, and we should strongly advise following what is known as the old road from Manorhamilton to Sligo (14). Unless a meal is required it is better not to go as far as Manorhamilton, but to turn to the right, 1-1/2 miles out. This will reduce the day's journey by 3 miles. From this turn there is a stiff climb of 2 miles, but the surface is good the entire way. At the top of this incline a grand prospect bursts on the view. A confusion of miniature mountains, densely wooded, extend in every direction, while, as we descend, the waters of Lough Gill come into view beneath.

A short distance from the summit the road forks. To the right leads to Sligo, while the turn to the left runs direct to the lake's shores, and then joins the other road some miles farther on. Both routes lead through beautiful scenery. The first is the shortest, but the second the prettiest.

~DUBLIN DISTRICT.~