CHAPTER XI.

WINTER AMUSEMENTS OF THE STUDENT.

He who lives out of himself, always does better than he who lives in himself. _Seume_.

Let us now devote a few pages to the pleasures of winter. If we give a distinguished place amongst these, to the amusements which the Museum, and many private circles afford, we must at the same time admit that particular circumstances prevent the students to any great extent seeking the latter. But as these circles are easy of access to the well-bred student even without letters of introduction, if he is at the pains to seek that introduction himself, we can by no means omit their mention. In the houses of professors and other leading families of the place, the student is hospitably received. Reading, music, social games, and the dance, here furnish an inexhaustible source of entertainment. Here he finds an opportunity to accomplish himself in social habits, and by polishing the rough outside to discover that solid interior which can best be strengthened and perfected by a union of active intercourse with knowledge; and who will deny that this desirable condition is alone to be attained by the society of refined and accomplished women?

With softest persuasion and gentlest prayers, The sceptre of manners sweet Woman still bears; Extinguishes discord, which ragingly glows-- Teaches wild powers that malignantly fight. Themselves in her own lovely form to unite, And combines what in nature else separately flows. _Schiller's Duties of Women_.

The student the more gladly joins these circles, as he is sure always to find some of his companions already there, for the dance-loving host continually recruits its members from the sons of Minerva. On the other hand, the Museum presents manifold points of contact between the students and higher classes of the inhabitants of the city. We again avail ourselves of some remarks exactly to the point, out of the Halle Year-Book. The author of the article says, "Heidelberg is only a city of moderate size, but it contains sufficient elements for a superior society. In the next place, it has formed itself into various small circles, into which also the student of good disposition and accordant taste readily procures admittance, and where he finds himself received with simple cordiality. Most of the professors, are very accessible to individual students, and throw in their way opportunities for a more close literary intimacy; many of them thereby frequently collect round them large social circles.

"In the next place, many English families, which have taken up their abode for a time in Heidelberg, offer desirable points of union to various lively social circles there; and with them vie other strangers, possessors of estates in the immediate vicinity of the city, amongst which in this respect is particularly well known the hospitable Stift Neuberg. Many of the substantial burgers of Heidelberg also endeavour to furnish those students that seek their acquaintance by letters of introduction, or otherwise, with the amenities of social exhilaration and improvement. These opportunities for a worthy enjoyment of life are accepted by a great part of the students in the best spirit, and to evident advantage. Walks in company and excursions into the surrounding country in summer, and musical entertainments in winter, bring the students into amalgamation with city society, subject their freedom of thought to the wholesome restraints of good manners, and give to their enjoyment of life at once scope and modification. But all these different circles find themselves included and brought together into a comprehensive social unity, in the Museum. This establishment founded as a joint-stock property by the inhabitants and professors of the city, is of high value both to the social life of Heidelberg in general, and in particular to the student world. For a moderate yearly subscription, the student becomes a member of this union, and through that a partaker of its social pleasures; enjoys the advantage of access to a rich collection of political, scientific, and literary periodicals, and new works; and is even entitled to a certain co-operation in the affairs of the union; a portion of the ball-directors, for instance, being elected from amongst them. The spacious and handsome suite of apartments in the Museum, which are always open to the members, give the most preferable opportunities to the students for having a common table, and for other social meetings, and by this means brings about a more extensive intimacy and acquaintance amongst these young people. But especially is the independent manner and estimation with which they see themselves received in such a union, an incentive to them to maintain this position with urbanity and moderation; and the social equality with their teachers which here prevails, far from diminishing their respect for them, serves only, through the confidence reposed in them, to elevate and ennoble them. Inconceivable is the auspicious influence of the Museum on the conduct of the students, and their good understanding with the professors, and with the whole of the best society of the city; and the cases are rare in which any one by a wanton disturbance of the general enjoyment, loses sight of that discretion which the company expects from him. Truly not all the students have the taste for these nobler social pleasures, which are offered to them in so friendly and disinterested a manner. They who regard the established rules of social manners as a restraint, incompatible with the enjoyment of their academical freedom, seek less select circles, where such rules are more freely dispensed with. The society of the middle classes of Heidelberg, though decent and lively, yet wants that higher finish which elevates the young man, while it compels him to watchfulness over himself. The student feels himself above the society of such circles, and, as only too frequently happens, he makes them feel his superiority in an unbecoming manner, making them the butts of his wit, and the objects of his wanton humours. The Heidelberg citizens have had repeated occasion to rue this overbearing spirit of the students, and they have never, and can never be able to establish a more satisfactory and secure relationship with such society."

But the life of a large city comes near enough to the Heidelberg students. The Mannheim theatre is chiefly filled by persons from Heidelberg; the saloons of Mannheim society, in which the exclusiveness of English high life, and of German aristocracy, appear softened by French urbanity and South-German good-nature, are not impassable to him; and the more favoured may, in the little court of the widowed Grand Duchess Stephanie, become acquainted with the fine yet easy manners of a circle distinguished by birth and accomplishment.

Many a romance weaves itself here in the intercourse of the social circles--in the crowd of the ball-room; and strong chains of love often become fabricated, which conduct the maiden far from the walls of Heidelberg, and teach her to forget, on a distant hearth, her beautiful native home. If on a lovely summer's night we linger late on the castle height, we often, as we return, become the partakers of the enjoyment of a serenade, the offering which a son of Minerva brings to show to his chosen one his watchfulness. At a distance we listen to a beautiful song, whose delivery, full of tenderness and feeling, is supported by the accompaniment of a guitar.

TRUE LOVE.

When in the gloomy midnight deep My solitary watch I keep, I think on her I left behind, And ask is she still true and kind.

When I was forced to march away, How warm a kiss she gave that day; With ribands bright my cap she drest, And clasped me to her faithful breast.

She loves me well, to me is kind, Therefore I keep a cheerful mind: Through coldest nights my bosom glows Whene'er on her my thoughts repose.

Now by the dim lamp's feeble light, Perchance upon thy bed to-night Thy thoughts to thy beloved are given, With nightly prayer for him to Heaven!

O, if thou weep'st by grief distressed, To think of me with danger prest, Be calm, God keeps me every where, A faithful soldier is his care!

Or we follow with insatiate ear the accord which sends to us through the stillness of the night a full concert of wind music. There, under the window, see we scattered light glimmer, and by degrees perceive the separate music-desks, round which the dark figures have ranged themselves. But the third piece is ended, and all sinks back into the stillness of night. Many a son of the Muses is detained in Ruperto-Carolo, fast bound by bonds of gentle witchcraft, till the father's stern behest compels him to tear himself from this paradise.

THE DEPARTURE.

What rings and what sings in the streets so down there? Open the windows, ye maids so fair. 'Tis the Bursche, away he windeth, The Comitat him attendeth.

The others go shouting and wave their hats round, With ribands and flowers all glowingly crowned; But the Bursche, he loves not this riot, In the centre goes pale and quiet.

Loud clash now the tankards, bright sparkles the wine, "Drink out, and again drink, dear brother mine!" "With the farewell-wine there outfloweth, What so deep in my heart now gloweth."

The very last house which they go by-- A maiden looks down from the window so high; Fain hides she her tearful gushes With wallflowers rich and sweet rose-bushes.

The very last house that they go by The Bursche there lifteth up his eye; Then sinks it, his pain betraying,-- His hand on his heart now laying.

"Sir Brother! and hast thou then no bouquet? See, flowers there are nodding and waving so gay! Hillo! thou loveliest dear one,-- Of thy nosegays now fling us here one!"

'Ye Brothers! what can that nosegay do? I now have no loving Liebschen like you. In the sun it will droop and wither;-- The wind blow it hither and thither!'

And farther and farther with clang and song! And sadly listens that maiden long. "O, wo! and the youth removeth, Whom only my heart still loveth.--

"Here stand I, ah! in my love profound, With roses and with wallflowers around-- And he for whom all I would sever, He's gone--and gone for ever!"

So marches he forth, and--"other cities, other maidens!"

If the stranger suffer himself, by his hunger after fresh air, to be led away, in the days of a strong winter, to the hills above Heidelberg, how monotonous and wild appears to him there nature in her funeral robes. The mountains, the valleys, all wrapt in that white winding sheet, are silent. From a distance only comes a heavy sound, as the ice-covering of the Neckar is heaved and rifted by the combating flood that rushes beneath it. That feeling of solitude seizes him, and he follows the course of a small stream which will, however, conduct him again to the banks of the Neckar. The water, whose course he has followed, has wonderfully wrought the leaves and the grass into fantastical ice-forms; while, above him, hang from the rocks enormous icicles, glittering in the wintry light like crystal daggers. Again he finds himself by the mirror-like surface of the wintry flood, and behold! the uniformity of nature has only enabled man to multiply his pleasures. A glad multitude here is full of life and activity. With delight the eye follows the skilful skater, as he now, with wonderful rapidity flies right forward, now winds in graceful sweeps and circles through the human mass. He moves so freely and easily, that his art would appear quite destitute of art, did we not see the learner in his first attempts tumbling at every trial, till exhausted, he stands and watches, with envious eye, the evolutions of the practised student. The ice-field becomes every moment fuller and fuller, till the strongly congealed surface can scarcely support the hundreds which crowd upon it. And there comes a troop of blooming ladies, hastening down the steep bank of the Neckar. They descend the narrow path, slippery with frozen snow, cautiously, and a troop of their worshippers fly to receive them, place them triumphantly in the chair-sledges, and pushing them before them, vie with each other in sending them, with flying speed, over the crystal ice-plain far away.

Nothing can well make so vivid an impression on the foreigner, especially on the Englishman, as the sledging processions, which, as soon as the snow is trodden hard enough to bear, may be daily seen issuing from Heidelberg. Sometimes we see individual sledges, which are of striking appearance, gliding rapidly through the streets; then greater sledge-parties, which the students make amongst themselves, or in association with some of the inhabitants. A troop of fore-riders, with the thundering cracks of their heavy whips, announce the approach of the sledge of the lady of honour, drawn by four horses. Then follows a long train of sledges, each with two horses, and each containing only one lady and gentleman. These sledge-parties afford much amusement to the students, and opportunities for many a frolic, and the Chores vie in outshining each other in ingeniously planned and splendidly achieved processions. In earlier times masked sledge-parties were the order of the day; but, in consequence of many well-known and distinguished individuals of the university city being represented, or rather misrepresented, they are now formally forbidden. Even the ladies, and the venerable heads of the senate, were not secure from the caricaturing of the students. Thus a stranger related to me, with great horror, that he had met a great company of ladies and gentlemen in sledges; all the ladies had wafted to him hand-kisses, and, _horribile dictu!_ at the very next confectioner's, the ladies, with evident delight, had each drunk a glass of brandy!

We recollect a winter, some years ago, that was particularly distinguished by these pranks. In the first place, one of the Chores set out a sledge procession, which was imposing from the number of its sledges and the brilliance of its torches, which were carried by the whole assembled body of Boot-foxes. But this was speedily cast into the shade by another. The second Chore celebrated a Bauer's wedding, riding and driving in numerous sledges, in the Sunday attire of Bauers and Bauerinen, the country people and their wives, old and young, masked, into a neighbouring village, the sledge of the feigned bride and bridegroom being richly garlanded, and there, this fictitious pair--a couple of disguised students--were solemnly conducted through the ceremony of a marriage. A third Chore then, in order to strike out something more piquant, undertook a voyage by land. A number of Neckar boats were secured on sledges. They were all bravely rigged and equipped with sails, masts, and cordage, and sailors were in full activity, each crew zealous to maintain the honour of their ship. Some of them were seen with huge spy-glasses looking out ahead in the streets, to descry any dangerous rocks that might lie in their track, which might obstruct or fatally terminate their voyage. And behold! all was suddenly at a stand--the sign of a Beer-Kneip was the rock on which they struck. All hands were now busy in trying to rescue the ship from this perilous situation, and the way they went to work was to blow it with a vast number of pairs of bellows, in order to send a very tempest of wind into the sails. The captain gave his commands, in masterly style, through his huge speaking-trumpet, and at length the vessel heaved off, and all was quickly again under sail, the whole body singing--

THE GALLANT SHIP IS GOING.

The gallant ship is going, The strong east wind is blowing, The far-off fading strand Shows no longer, Yet glows stronger Love unto my native land.

Billows dark blue foaming, Tell me, are ye coming From that dear distant strand? Let them flow then, Since they go then Back unto my native land!

And as the billow breaks there, Love's heart and ear yet wakes there; O speed to her away! Kindly meet her, Kindly greet her? For of me you've much to say!

Seas from thee may tear me, But my thoughts still bear me To thee in that dear land; What I sing now, Winds shall wing now, Till it reach that far-off strand.

When high the waves are rearing, And wild the storm's careering, Then think I but on thee; Who dost change not, Who dost range not, And no storms can trouble me!

All the songs I yet may sing thee, Other, nearer winds shall wing thee, Soon the port will lie in view; These I'll sing thee, These I'll bring thee, And with them a heart that's true!

Another winter the luxury of this amusement had advanced so far that, from beginning at first with one horse, the students had now arrived at having from six to eight in each sledge, and the academical senate felt itself called upon to put a stop to this extravagant proceeding. It forbade them in future to sledge with so many horses. What a set-out was seen the next day! An old superannuated hack was harnessed to the most miserable sledge that the city could furnish, and dragged it along with the last remains of his strength. In this neat equipage were packed together a dozen students, almost upon one another's shoulders; and if the wretched beast, scarcely capable of putting one foot beyond another, was disposed to stand still, he was urged to further exertion by a horribly ugly, humpbacked, and limping ostler, going before him, and holding before his nose a most fragrant and ravishing lock of hay. At length they reached the first inn, where they called for a choppin of beer, had it divided into twelve glasses, and thus, with about a spoonful each, attempted to quench their thirst. Here they were encountered by the inexorable beadle, or poodle, as they style him, and commanded to withdraw so flagrant a satire on the worshipful senate's decree. On the following day a modest sledge was drawn slowly through the street where this stern enforcer of academical laws resided, in which sate a poodle, whose mouth a student held close with his hand, while another offered him a crown dollar. Not content with this significant emblem, which held up the _official_ poodle to suspicion, as though he too might have his mouth stopped by a sufficient motive, in the evening came a crowd of boys, following, in wonder, two students, who, to avoid falling under the stringent restrictions of the senate, had adopted a new mode of sledging. One lay down on his back sledgeways, and being drawn to some distance, by his legs, by his companion; then arose, and drew his comrade in the same fashion, the whole being attended by a train of torches, so that all the world might see it. But enough of these mad pranks; these were in past times. The sons of the Muses are now contented to distinguish their sledging-parties by their numbers rather than their extravagance, and instead of writhing under senatorial restraints, put on themselves, the pleasant restraint of reason and good taste, and furnishing a holiday spectacle to the city, enjoy themselves a day of social hilarity.

We have stated that after dinner the student seeks his coffeehouse, and is not ashamed with a billiard party or with a game of cards to kill an hour or two. The last amusement particularly will many of them only too passionately pursue; and indeed Play, at the bank, as in Wiesbaden, or Baden-Baden, whither they make excursions, has plunged many of them already into great trouble. The student has invented many games at cards, which are played, partly for money, partly for beer, and bear peculiar names, as Cerevies, Pereat, Schlauch, etc. When the student has in the evening visited his kneip, whither we will presently join him, he has then brought his day's work famously to a close, and the reader will join in the chorus when he sings--

Thus we students,--you may see so,-- Daily fun-fall, blithe, uproarious, Burschen ever, could it be so! For the Bursche is ever glorious!