Part 9

Distant about four miles on the London road, is built of beautiful free stone, and is situated in a very extensive lawn on the banks of the river Tern, over which is a handsome bridge erected by the late lord Berwick. The south front, which is upwards of 365 feet in length, has an extremely grand appearance; being decorated with lofty Ionic pilasters and a magnificent portico. The interior of the house has much to recommend it, particularly its lofty and spacious hall, the entablature of which is supported by Verd Antique Scaglioni columns, with statuary capitals and bases. The picture gallery is a spacious room 78 feet 6 inches long, by 25 feet 6 inches wide, and 24 feet high. It contains many _chef d’œuvres_ of the old masters, particularly some valuable ones by Raffaello—Parmigiano—Paolo Veronese—Annibal Caracci—Rubens—Vandyck—Poussin—Kuyp—the Ostade’s—Murillo—Salvator Rosa—Berchem. The walls of this elegant room are of a deep lake colour; the ceiling supported by porphyry columns of the Corinthian order, the capitals and bases of which are beautifully gilded. Underneath the cornice of this extensive room is a gold fringe of great depth. The floor is inlaid with rich Mosaic work, and the grand staircase is finished in a corresponding style of magnificence. The suite of drawing rooms is superbly furnished with immense plate glasses and burnished gold furniture, and the ceilings are richly gilt. The boudoir is a beautiful small circular room, the pannels of which are decorated by the pencil of one of our first artists. The library is in the west wing, and is a very extensive and lofty room, the cornice is supported by rich Corinthian pilasters; and besides a very valuable collection of books, it contains several rare specimens of sculpture from the antique. Among those most worthy notice is a font {115} from Hadrian’s Villa; on the basso relievo on its exterior the story of Narcissus is beautifully told. A rich candelabra from the antique, of exquisite workmanship, near ten feet high—a fine colossal statue of Apollo Belvidere—a beautiful Esculapius—with a splendid collection of Etruscan vases from Herculaneum, busts, chimeras, &c. &c. The rooms on the first floor correspond in the grandeur and magnificence of their furniture with those on the ground floor.

The house was built originally from a design by Mr. Stewart, but it has lately undergone a very extensive alteration, under the superintendance of Mr. Nash; the rich and costly carvings and ornamental furniture, were executed by Mr. Donaldson, of Shrewsbury, whose correct taste in that fine art is too well appreciated to need any eulogium here.

The situation of the house is healthy and delightful; and the grounds contiguous thereto have lately been much improved. The view of this elegant seat, from the public road near the before-mentioned bridge has a fine effect: its beautiful front—the extensive shrubberies—with the park richly clothed with fine timber on the back ground, rising to a considerable height above the mansion; whilst in the distance on the left will be seen the pleasing village of Atcham—its parish church—and bridge, present, even to the passing stranger, a very pleasing scene. The gardens, walks and pleasure grounds, are laid out with taste, and display some very fine scenery.

Hawkstone,

The seat of the noble and celebrated family of the Hills, is situated on the eastern border of the county, about 14 miles from Salop, and though with regard to the surrounding country it may be said to stand on an extensive plain, it in itself consists of a group of prominent and astonishingly romantic rocks, forming by far one of the most attractive features, not only of this, but perhaps, taken altogether, of any other county. To attempt a particular or even a general description, would very far exceed the limits of our whole book, as a cursory inspection of its wonders occupies a walk of several days. General Paoli, who visited this place before the late improvements, publicly declared that in all his extensive travels, not even excepting Italy or Switzerland, there were some scenes here that surpassed in grandeur any thing he had seen.—A slight notice of some of its principal beauties will best become our humble efforts in so limited a work. The house, though spacious and elegant, and not of very ancient erection, notwithstanding it is embellished with some fine specimens of sculpture and painting, forms but a small part of what is sought after here; the attractive powers of Hawkstone consisting entirely in the enchantment of the surrounding scenery. Three or four massive rocks irregularly grouped, with their fine wooded sides disclosing at intervals abrupt crags, towers, and shelving precipices, with intermediate vallies of still seclusion and spreading lawns of verdant freshness, together with many a broad expanse of park, studded with luxuriant trees either grouped in groves, or single in feathery fullness, the whole enlivened by inhabitants appropriate, picture to the sight both at once and successively—scenes only equalled and seldom surpassed, even in the poetic regions of luxuriant romance.—The Grotto is approached through a stupendous natural chasm of great length, and narrowing till but one person at a time can pass, while over head the sky is just seen at a great height; a dark cavern is then passed, and the sky is again for a moment seen, when entering another cavern of complete darkness and gradual ascent, the grotto is, after considerable, though perfectly safe wandering, entered: the first appearance of this spacious cavern is truly sublime, as it is seen by the glimmering light of variously stained glass, throwing its lurid and sepulchral faintness on the massive pillars, till at length the grotto is entered with all its brilliance: It consists of a very extensive excavation, finely fretted to its termination with a profusion of rich petrifactions, shells, and marine productions. In one of its awful recesses, through an iron grate, is seen the figure of a British Druid, in complete costume, passing amid the massy pillars, in a dim and green light.—After various windings, a door suddenly opens in the summit of the precipice, where, over the shelving rocks below, and far above the highest forests, a scene of magnificence bursts on the eye exceeding almost conception. This height is with some difficulty descended by innumerable winding steps cut in the solid rock.

A SCENE in SWITZERLAND is presented here on the heathy summit of one of the mountains, where a narrow plank bridge crosses a deep chasm, and connects two rocks of terrific height and cragginess.

The terrace formed on the ridge of one of the hills, finely wooded, is terminated by an octagon summer-house, that commands a prospect of astonishing extent, from whence the bordering mountains of Wales, with parts of no less than 13 counties, are distinctly enumerated.—Near this place is a Column, 112 feet high, surmounted with a colossal statue of sir Rowland Hill, the first protestant lord mayor of London, in 1550, the 3rd year of Edward VI. In a most romantic glen, near this place, is an Urn, erected by the late sir Richard Hill, purporting that it was the hiding-place of one of his ancestors, during the civil wars of Edward I. while his house was ravaged by the parliament soldiers; but that his son speedily came to his assistance: the approach to and from it now is much facilitated, without destroying the wildness of the scene, by extensive passages and steps. Beyond this is a well-stocked Menagerie of living Animals, principally birds.—From hence, round the sudden and abrupt corner of a rock, and through the cleft body of an old oak, is entered one of the sweetest vallies imagination can tint, and most properly called ELYSIUM: It is bounded completely by wooded and inaccessible rocks, and can only be entered at this narrow passage, or at the extreme termination of its extent, about half a mile.—On the most western of this group of rocks are the remains of RED CASTLE, built in the reign of Henry III., though it is mentioned by this name in a grant as ancient as William the Conqueror. It is now in awful ruins; but lofty fragments of its walls form some of the most picturesque beauties of this romantic place; and fling on the mind, if such scenes needed it, the additional charm of that strange feeling that antiquity and fallen grandeur never fail to excite. Amid these towers is a well of surprising depth; called now the GIANT’S WELL. The site of this castle is ascended and descended (as is usual amid most of the strange scenes here) by steps cut in the rocks; and very frequently through caverns, sometimes natural, but always surprising. At the bottom of one of these is suddenly seen a Lion in his den, which, though assuredly a trifling toy amid such scenery, never fails to astonish the generality of visitors.—Here is also a SCENE in OTAHEITE, consisting chiefly of a Hut, built exactly on the model of what our lamented countryman, Captain Cook witnessed in that happy island, and ornamented accordingly: the scene wherein it is erected first pointed out the propriety.

To enumerate, much more to describe, all, or even the principal attractions of this wonderful place, would, as we before stated, very far exceed the limits we have allotted thereunto: yet before we close, as we would willingly please readers of every description, it may not be amiss to notice what is not improperly called NEPTUNE’S WHIM, a spot no doubt most largely applauded by the generality of visitors here. It is very properly detached at a tolerable distance from the principal scenery of Hawkstone; and consists of a cottage ornamented with shell-work and cinders, amid ponds of fish; behind which is a mighty figure of the marine god, with a profuse current gushing through his urn; he is accompanied, of course, by his Tritons and Nereids, spouting water through their leaden shells. This is acknowledgedly _a whim_ of his godship, whereof he partakes with mortals; nor can these trifles, or even some of the inscriptions, tend to lessen the august grandeur of this most magnificent spot, wherein art has had little more to do than clear a path, for the votaries of nature to have access to her most sportive and astonishing charms.

What skill, what force divine, Deep felt in these appear! a simple train, Yet so delightful mix’d, with such kind art, Such beauty and beneficence combin’d; Shade, unperceiv’d, so softening into shade; And all so forming an harmonious whole; That as they still succeed they ravish still.

THOMSON.

At the entrance to the Park is erected a very handsome and commodious Inn, capacious enough for the reception of a number of families; many of which frequently spend a considerable part of the summer in this delightful spot. The attention of the worthy host and the excellence of the accommodations, provisions and wines, must be experienced to be duly appreciated.

[Picture: Decorative graphic of building with tree, and houses with church in background]

Howell, Printer.

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FOOTNOTES.

{33} The Welsh word for the principality of Wales.

{89} A great quantity of human bones have from time to time been dug up in the grounds which surrounded this ancient friary, from which it appears probable that it was once used as a burying place for those who died of the plague, which frequently and severely visited this town. Phillips says that after the battle of Battlefield, between Henry IVth and Hotspur, “many persons of note were buried in the Black and Austin’s Friars in Shrewsbury.”

{108} Sutton-spring water:

_Grains_. A wine gallon of Sutton-water 1082 6 contains of muriate of soda Ditto of lime, with an 226 0 admixture of muriated soda Carbonate of iron 0 5 Clay and silex 11 5 Total of solid contents 1320 0 _Cubic Inches_. Carbonic acid 1.805 Common air, contaminated with 12.635 azote and sulphurated hydrogen gas Total of volatile contents 14.440

{113} The hospitable and truly old English mansion of Mrs. Corbet, which is seen on the right hand.

{115} When the French took possession of Rome, this font was undergoing a repair at the statuary’s, and was considered so valuable an antique, that the French Commissary priced it at 2000 guineas. Being claimed however by the statuary as his own property, he was allowed to retain it, and afterwards he contrived to convey it to Lord B. to whom it belonged.