CHAPTER XV
_Itinerary and Miscellaneous Information_
"Some few particulars I have set down fit to be known of your crude traveller."--BEN JONSON.
To many Moscow seems so far distant, and Russia so unknown, that a few hints to intending travellers may be welcome. In the first place as to the best season for the journey; notwithstanding all the claims advanced in favour of winter--and they are not inconsiderable--for a first visit, or an only visit, the summer is preferable. Moscow, the brilliant and gorgeous is seen at its best in the bright sunlight; it is more picturesque and more conveniently to be viewed in detail or entirety. The latter part of June is the best period for then is the season of the "white nights" when there is no need of street lamps and the days are more than long enough for sight-seeing.
The shortest and best route is by way of Flushing, Berlin, Warsaw and Smolensk: distance from London 1800 miles; time 65 hours. Return tickets available for six weeks may be purchased at any London terminus: first class £16, 13s. 9d., second class £10, 19s. 7d. Through travellers should start by the night service from London, and change trains in Berlin at the Zoologischer Garten station; leave Moscow by the 5 P.M. train and in Berlin change at the Alexanderplatz station; by these through services the drive across Warsaw is avoided.
Of the many other routes that recommended as the most enjoyable is _via_ Gothenburg, by the canal to Stockholm and thence by the excellent steamers to Abo, Hango, Helsingfors or direct to St Petersburg and on to Moscow by the Nikolai railway. By all routes a Foreign Office passport, visé by the Russian Consul, is indispensable.
Compared with the leading hotels in other great towns, those of Moscow leave much to be desired. Hotel Billo on the Great Lubianka is centrally situated and much frequented by the English visitors, who there find adequate accommodation and the greatest courtesy. Hotel Dresden, on the Tverskaya, is upon even higher ground, opposite the residence of the Governor-General; Hotel Continental facing the Grand Theatre, and the Moskovski Traktir, opposite the Vosskresenski Gate, are also well kept and are near the Kremlin; the Slavianski Bazaar is in the Kitai Gorod. The Russian custom, which it is advisable should be followed if a long stay is made, is to take rooms in a hotel or elsewhere; the rent includes heating in winter, and the use of the samovar twice daily. The Kokoref Hotel, on the south side of the river, is one of the largest establishments on this plan and many of its rooms command superb views of the Kremlin (see p. 13) and are in demand by English visitors on this account. The restaurants are good; in summer the visitor should not fail to lunch in the lofty court of the Slavianski Bazaar which, like the Bolshoi Moskovski Traktir, is much used by business men. For native dishes the Praga, on the Arbat, and Tyestov's, on the Vosskresenski Place, are the best; the Ermitage, on the Trubaya is more ostentatious, but the cuisine is good; the Saratov (Srietenka Boulevard) is favoured by university students. At all the service is excellent, and the old-fashioned attire of the waiters unconventional and pleasing. The peculiarly local dishes comprise: ikra (fresh caviare), batvennia and okroshka (iced soups), shchee (cabbage soup with sour cream), ukha (fish soup), beluga, osternia, etc. (different varieties of sturgeon), porosianok (cold boiled sucking pig with horse-radish sauce), rasolnik, yazu and barannybok are made dishes; the appropriate beverage is one of the many varieties of kvas, which will be served iced in fine old silver beakers or tankards of native workmanship. Tea with lemon at the Café Philipov, on the Tverskaya.
Many tourists whilst on a yachting cruise in the Baltic avail themselves of the steamer's stay in the Neva to make a hurried visit to Moscow. To them, and others whose stay is necessarily of short duration, the following itinerary may be useful:--
(1) Drive through the Kitai Gorod, the Grand Square, across the Moskvoretski bridge, along the quay to the Kammeny Most; cross the river and enter the Kremlin by the Troitski Gate and alight at Ivan Veliki. Visit the cathedrals and monasteries of the Kremlin (Chs. viii., ix.); the Great Palace and Terem (Ch. vii.); Potieshni Dvorets (Ch. viii.). Later drive out to the Novo Devichi Convent (Ch. xii.); thence to the ferry before sunset, dine at the Restoran Krinkin, return to the Mala Kammeny Most by steamer--or by tram to the Kaluga Place--see the Kremlin by moonlight from the Kokoref.
(2) Iberian Chapel (Ch. vii.); Historical Museum (Ch. ii.); Treasury (Orujni Palata) in the Kremlin (Ch. vii.); Spass na Boru (Ch. ix.); Ascension Convent (Ch. xii.); through the Redeemer Gate (Ch. xiii.); Vasili Blajenni (Ch. iv.); Old Gostinni Dvor, Dom Romanovykh (Ch. xi.); walk up the Starai Ploshchad, inside wall of the Kitai Gorod, to Church of St Nicholas of the Great Cross. Then up through the market, or outside the wall to the Vladimirski Vorot (Ch. ix.); the churches and monasteries in the Nikolski to St Mary of Kazan behind the Town Hall. Later up the Lubianka to the church and monastery of the Srietenka (Ch. x.); the Sukharev Bashnia, along the boulevard to the Strastnoi Monastery (Ch. xii.); drive past the Triumphalnia to Khodinski Pole, the Petrovski Palace, Park, etc.
_Note._--The Dom Romanovykh is usually open from 11 until 2 on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays; the Treasury on the same days; and the Great Palace, Terem, etc., on alternate days with these.
(3) English Church, Conservatorium, old and new Universities, Manege, Rumiantsev Museum (Ch. x.); New Cathedral (Ch. xiv.). Later to the Tretiakov Gallery (Ch. x.); the Danilovski and Donskoi Monastyrs (Ch. xii.); drive home across the Krimski Bridge, Skorodom and the Sadovia.
(4) Matveiev memorial (Ch. x.); Church of St Nicholas, Church of the Nativity (Ch. viii.); Foundling Hospital, Novo Spasski Monastyr (Ch. xii.); Krutitski Vorot (p. 142); Simonov Monastyr (Ch. xii.) and return. Later to Krasnoe Vorot and Prud, and Sokolniki.
(5) Taininskoe; Church, Palace and Park at Ostankina, Mordva (Ch. xi.); Petrovski-Razoomovski, etc.
DRIVES FROM THE TOWN
(_a_) Over the Dragomilov Bridge to the village of Fili, memorial church, and _izba_ with a museum of memorials of the Council of War held there by Napoleon in 1812 (Ch. xiv.).
(_b_) By the Krestovski Zastava to the old church of the regency at Taininskoe; the seventeenth century church at Ostankina; near by is the "Palace," a wooden mansion belonging to the Sheremetiev family; beyond the park and village of Sirlovo is the Mordva hamlet, (Ch. xii.).
(_c_) By the Preobrajenski Zastava to the suburb of that name (Ch. vii.), and Transfiguration Cemetery, and principal establishment of the Bezpopovtsi sect of Old Believers (Ch. ix.).
(_d_) By the Rogojski Zastava to the cemetery and church of that name for the religious services of the Old Believers, (Ch. ix.).
EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY
Few visitors to Moscow leave Russia without seeing the Troitsa Monastery (67 versts on the Yaroslav Railway), mentioned in Chapter v. and elsewhere, but although closely connected with the history of Moscow not within the scope of this book. Other places of like or different interest are: the New Jerusalem Monastery near Krukova, 36 versts on the Nikolai Railway and about 14 miles thence by road; the battlefield of Borodino, (114 versts on the Smolensk Railway); Nijni-Novgorod, 410 versts, but the pleasure fair has been discontinued and the celebrated yearly market is now exclusively commercial.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Of the English books treating of Old Muscovy the best contemporaneous accounts have been reprinted in the five volumes of the Hakluyt Society's publications devoted to early travels in Russia. The best contemporary Life of Peter I. in English is that by Alex. Gordon; among the best recently published, the translation of K. Waliszewski's study, and Eugene Scuyler's account of the Life and Times of Peter the Great. For matters ecclesiastical Albert F. Heard's Russian Church and Russian Dissent will be found most informing, and Mr W. J. Birkbeck's history of the Eastern Church Society's work of more particular interest to Anglicans. In another field Mr Alfred Maskell's "Russian Art" may be found useful, and the antiquary will find much that is curious and suggestive in "L'Art Russe: ses origines," etc., by E. E. Viollet le Duc (Paris, 1877).
PHOTOGRAPHY
Amateur photographers should join the Russian Photographic Society, whose members alone have the right to photograph throughout the empire. Otherwise it will be necessary to obtain permission of the chief of the police in each town or district. The Kremlin is technically a fortress, and the use of the camera within the walls forbidden, but leave is given--on personal application to the Governor--to those who are already furnished with the police permit, or are members of the Photographic Society. Application for membership should be made, prior to visiting Russia, to the Secretary, Russian Photographic Society, Dom Djamgarof, Kusnetski Most, Moscow.
INDEX
A
ADASHEF, 50, 52.
ALARM TOWER, 58.
ALEVISO, Fioraventi, 44, 148.
ALEXANDER GARDENS, 15, 153, 224.
ALEXANDRINA PALACE, 264.
ALEXIS, St, 23, 176, 253 _ff._
ALEXIS, Tsar, 116, 120 ff, 134, 137.
ALL SAINTS' CHURCH, 205.
ALL SAINTS' DAY, Fire on, 257.
AMBROSE, Archbishop, 257.
AMUSEMENTS, 237.
ANNUNCIATION, Cath. of, 293 _ff._ and _see_ BLAGOVIESHCHENSKI SOBOR, Church of, 149.
ARBAT, 49, 82, 225, 295.
ARCHANGELSKI SOBOR, 190 _ff._
ARCHITECTURE, Muscovite, 3, 223, 302; arches, 168; Church, 181, diversity of, 225; Domestic, 169, 225, 228; Ecclesiastical, 177; Origin of Muscovite, 168; of "Skorodom," 220, 301.
ARMS of Moscow, 36, 125.
---- of Romanofs, 125.
---- of Russia, 36.
=Art=, Bookbinders', 192; Byzantine examples, 122, 142, 261; church, 192, 194; decorative, 246; ecclesiastic, 182; frescoes, 192; gems and jewellery, 198; Gothic influence on Muscovite, 141, 280; ikon-portraiture, 183; metal work, 243; pictorial, 221; wall-paintings, 188, 195.
ASKOLD AND DYR, 5.
ASCENSION CONVENT, 257, and _see_ VOSSNESENSKI.
ASSUMPTION, Cath. of, 185 _ff_; and _see_ USPENSKI SOBOR.
---- Church of, 89.
B
BAATI, 16.
BALAAM, Metrop., 253.
BARMI, 140.
BASMANOVS, 74, 91, 98.
BEARDS and Fines, 216.
BELSKIS, 81, 91.
BEST, Harry, 240.
BELLS, Founding, 159.
---- Moscow, 157 _ff._
BELVEDERES, 41, 117, 154.
BIBLIOGRAPHY, 307.
BIELO-GOROD, 40, 82, 207.
BIELO-OZERSK, 52, 92.
BLACK Clergy, 253.
BLAGOVIESHCHENSKI SOBOR, 44, 130, 193 _ff._
"BLESSED WILLIE," 67.
BLESSING the Water, 150.
BOGOLOOBSKI, Andrew, 15, 87.
BOGOYAVLENNI MONASTYR, 27, 255.
BOMEL, Dr E., 72, 278.
BORODINO, Battle of, 286.
BOROVITSKI VOROT, 41, 291, 299.
BOWES, Jeremy, 43, 62.
BOYARDS, 63; customs of, 227; duma of, 81, 134.
BRIDES of the Tsars, 118, 120.
BRUCE, Field-Marshal, 210; Tomb of, 261.
BYZANTIUM and Moscow, 32.
---- Style of in, 261.
---- Symbols of, 140.
C
CANNON, 96, 160, 300.
CARRIAGES and Harness, 140.
CASPIAN, Jenkinson on the, 273.
CATHEDRALS, Location of, 164; _see_ SOBOR and XRAM.
CHANCELLOR, R., 132, 276.
CHANI-BEK, 253.
CHAPEL of St Dmitri, 189.
---- St Gabriel, 196.
---- St George, 196.
---- Sts. Peter and Paul, 189.
---- St Samon, 197.
_see_ also CHURCH.
CHARACTERISTICS of boyards, 100, 115, 237.
---- Ivan IV., 78.
CHARACTERISTICS of Peter I., 206.
---- Moscow, 1, 141, 301.
---- Moscow Citizens, 237.
---- Moscow Princes, 10, 47.
CHARM of Moscow, 225, 252.
CHASOVIA, _see_ CHAPELS.
CHASTOK, 245.
CHEMIAKI, 28, 31, 145.
CHIBANOV, 53.
CHRISTIANITY in Russia, 3, 6, 32, 86-95, 174 _ff._
CHUDOV MONASTYR, 92, 253 _ff._
CHURCH, Russian, 172 _ff_; feasts of, 263, and Tsar, 55, 69, 116, 215; and Western Church, 32, 95; saves Moscow, 23, 101.
CHURCH of St Ambrose, 266.
---- St Balaam, 266.
---- St Catherine, 259.
---- Sts Constantine and Helen, 174.
---- St George, 259.
---- St James, 266.
---- St Jehosaphat, 266.
---- St John the Baptist, 130, 148.
---- St Lazarus, 41, 45, 127.
---- St Nikanor, 266.
---- St Nikolas, 209.
---- St Prokhor, 266.
---- St Saviour's, 161.
---- the Apostles, 188.
---- Nativity and Flight, 127.
---- Our Saviour on High, 128, 161.
---- Vasili Blajenni, 47, 65, 179.
CHURCHES of the Bielo-Gorod, 205, 209, 225.
---- Kitai-Gorod, 204.
---- Kremlin, 185.
---- Palace, 127 _ff._
---- Suburbs, 246, 249, 307.
---- Zemlianni-Gorod, 181, 209, 225.
CITIZENS AND TSAR, 34, 54.
CITY OF CHURCHES, 138.
CONSTANTINOPLE, _see_ BYZANTIUM.
CONVENT, Ascension, 257.
---- Conception, 260.
---- Nativity, 251.
---- Nikitski, 224.
---- Novo Devichi, 265.
---- Strastnoi (Passion), 260, 301.
---- Zachatievski, 260.
CONVENT-LIFE, 258, 269.
COSSACKS, 91, 263.
CRIMEAN WAR and English in Moscow, 282.
CROSS, Pre-Christian, 7; Russian, 182, 196.
CRUELTIES, 33, 49 _ff_, 150, 212, 215, 232, 240, 246, _see_ also IVAN IV. and PETER I.
CUSTOMS, of early Slavs, 7; of Mediæval Moscow, 132; curious, 248, 265.
D
DANIEL MIKHAILOVICH, 17.
DANILOVSKI MONASTYR, 17, 264.
DELAGARDIE, General, 100.
DISSENT and Dissenters, 202, 204 _ff._
DIVERSITY of Moscow, 225.
DMITRI DONSKOI, 23, 139 _ff._
---- "first false," 91 _ff._
---- Ivanovich, 51, 85.
---- "second false," 101, 103, 107.
---- of the "terrible eyes," 19.
DOGMA and Ritual, 177, 200.
DOLGORUKI, family, 15, 118.
---- Yuri, 12.
DOM CHUKINA, 223.
DOM ROMANOVYKH, 108.
---- USUPOV, 219.
DOMOSTROI, 50, 235.
DON COSSACKS, 91, 105.
DONSKOI MONASTYR, 82, 263.
DRINKING habits, 235-236.
DUKHOBORTSI, 203.
DUMA of the boyards, 134.
E
EDIGER, 27.
ENGLISH in Moscow, 54, 58, 62, 210, 270 _ff._
EPIPHANY, 255, and _see_ BOGOYAVLENNI.
ETIQUETTE, Muscovite, 43, 97.
EUDOXIA, (Donskoi), 258.
---- Striechnev, 119.
---- Lapunov, 216.
EUPHROSINA, 258.
EXPRESS trains, 303.
F
FAIRS, 38, 238.
FAMINE, 38, 106.
FIORAVENTI, Aleviso, 44, 148.
FIRE, The great, 290 _ff._
FIRES in Moscow, 16, 23, 25, 49, 50, 104, 227.
FLORENCE, Council of, 32.
FLOROVSKI, _v._ SPASSKI VOROT.
FOOD of Muscovites, 234, 305.
FOREIGNERS in Moscow, 23, 33, 52, 54, 58, 62, 64, 73, 99, 139, 274 _ff_, 295.
FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, 269.
FRENCH cannon captured, 160, 297.
---- Invasion, 284 _ff_; settlers, 295.
G
GADEN, Dr, 212.
GALITZIN, Kniaz, 145.
GALLOWAY, Chris, 157, 280.
GATES, _see_ VOROT.
GEORGE, Prince, 17.
---- St. 125, 259.
GLINSKI, Helena, 38, 47.
GLUISKI, 49, 71.
GODUNOV, Boris, 73, 80 _ff_, 85.
---- Theodore, 92.
GOLDEN Gates, 133.
---- Hall, 131.
---- Horde, _see_ Tartars.
---- Palace, 82, 128.
---- ---- Lesser, 82, 112, 127.
"GOOD COMPANIONS," 26.
GORDON, Patrick, 281.
---- Alexander, 282.
GOSTINNOI DVOK, 293.
GRANOVITAIA PALATA, 38, 43, 124, 131.
GREETING, Manner of, 242, 244.
GRIFFINS, Heraldic, 125.
H
HAMILTON, Miss, 278.
HERBERSTEIN, 43, 231.
HERMOGEN, Patriarch, 103.
HISTORICAL MUSEUM, 6, 178.
"HOLY BREAD," 255, 260.
---- Coat, 189.
---- Corridor, 131.
---- Moscow, 205.
---- Vestments, 165.
HORSEY, Jerom, 47, 58, 64, 71, 79, 85, 88, 274.
---- Adventures of, 276 _ff._
HOTELS, 304.
HOUSES, early dwellings, 7; in Skorodom, 223; of Russia Company, 277, _see_ also DOM.
I
IBERIAN CHAPEL, 143, and _see_ VOSSKRESENSKI VOROT.
IGOR, 5.
IKONOSTAS, 129, 187, 191, 254.
IKONS, 129.
---- _in relievo_, 184.
---- miraculous, 257, 259, 288.
---- "Nerukotvorenni," 182 _ff_, 201, 262.
---- "Not made with hands," 182 _ff_, 201.
---- private and personal, 245.
---- remarkable, 196.
---- trimorphic, 254, 257.
---- Varieties of, 183.
---- Virgin of Pechersk, 196.
---- Virgin of Vladimir, 187, 257.
---- Wonder-working, 259.
ILYINKA, VOROT, 39.
IRENE, Princess, 80-82, 87.
IVAN I., 21 _ff._
IVAN II., 23.
IVAN III., 32-36.
IVAN IV., 47 _et seq._, anecdotes of, 53, 61 _ff_; atrocities of, 49 _ff_, 57 _ff._, 241; tricks of, 53, 69; victims of, 76; wives, 77; wizards, 77.
IVAN V., 241.
IVAN "GROZNOI" _v._ IVAN IV.
IVAN the idiot, 68.
IVAN KALITA _v._ IVAN I.
IVAN KRESTITEL _v._ ST JOHN THE BAPTIST.
IVAN "the Terrible" _v._ IVAN IV.
IVAN VELIKI, 88, 155.
J
JENKINSON, Anthony, 272.
JERUSALEM GATE, 151.
JITNY DVOR, 149.
JOHN _v._ IVAN.
JOHN THE BAPTIST, 22, 128.
K
KAMMER College Rampart, 209, 307.
KARAMZIN, 145.
KAZAK _v._ COSSACK.
KAZAN, 32, 38, 51.
---- Virgin of, 259.
KAZI-GHIREE, Khan, 82, 88.
KHINGIZ, Khan, 16, 25.
KHLYSTI, 203.
KHOLMOGORI, 271.
KIEF, 5, 9, 22, 253.
KITAI-GOROD, 38, 82, 104, 147, 205, 238, 277, 301.
KONTCHAKA, 19.
KOURBSKI, Prince, 53.
KRASNOE KRILTSO, 126, 164.
---- Ploshchad, 110, 238.
---- Vorot, 219.
---- Ugol, 132.
KREMLIN, 13, 22, 40; derivation of, 22; dwellings in, 40; sights of, 147 _ff_; view of, 13; walls, 23, 149.
KRIM-TARTARS, 82.
KRIMSKI-BRODE, 265.
KRIMSKI-VAL, 265.
KRUTITSKI VOROT, 122, 142.
KULIKOVO, 139.
KUTAIFA, 154.
KUTCHKO, Stephen, 12.
KUZNETSKI MOST, 208.
L
LATIN in Moscow, 145.
LAZARUS, Church of St, 41, 45, 127.
LE BRUYN, 232.
LEGAL PROCEDURE, 239.
LIBRARIES, 257.
"LIFE for the Tsar," 110.
LITHUANIA, 52, 76, 82.
LOBNOE MESTO, 93, 152, 251.
M
MAHOMMEDANS and Muscovites, 17, 23, 28, 34, 38, 64, 182, 265.
MAIDEN'S FIELD, 265, and _see_ NOVO DEVICHI.
MAMAI, Khan, 23 _ff._
MARINA-ROSHCHA, 209.
MAROSSEIKA, 218.
MARRIAGE customs, 232, 241, 250.
MARY OF VLADIMIR, 187, 257.
---- Church of, 204.
MATVIEVS, 121, 130.
MEDICH, 147.
MIASCHANSKA, 209.
MICHAEL, Tsar, 109, 111 _ff._
MILOSAVSKIS, 120, 259.
MININ, Cosma, 106, 114.
MNISZEK, Maria, 97, 100, 113, 258.
MONASTERIES, early, 27; existing, 253 _ff_; _see_ also CONVENTS.
MONKS and Monasticism, 253 _ff._
MORDVA, 249.
MOROZOF, Boyard, 73.
---- Boyarina, 202, 222.
MOSCOW, Arms of, 36; charm of, 2, 226, 251; derivation of name, 11; fires in, 16, 23, 25, 49, 104, 227; the golden, 141; looted by the French, 293; sieges of, 25, 27, 91, 105, 152; unconventionality of, 2; views in, 1, 251; winter in, 226.
MOSHI, 177, 255.
MOSKVA RIVER, 100, 150, 153, 264.
MOST (Bridge), Kuznetski, 208; Kammeni, 305; Krasnoe Kholmski, 262; Krimski, 265.
MSTISLAVSKIS, 82, 91.
MUSCOVY and Britain, 73, 270.
---- Lithuania, 37.
---- Livonia, 33.
---- Poland, 81 _ff_, 132.
---- Tartary, 23 _ff_, 132.
MUSCOVITES of British descent, 283.
---- allied with Tartars, 21.
MUSEUMS, 220.
MYSTERY PLAYS, 142.
N
NAPOLEON, 124, 290 _ff._
NARYSHKIN, Family of, 121.
NATALIA, Tsaritsa, 121, 130.
NATIVITY, _see_ Rojdestva, 181.
---- Church of 181.
---- Convent of, 251.
NEGLINNAIA, 15, 49, 153.
NEW ROWS, 238.
NICHOLAS, patron saint, 184.
---- of Galstun, 157.
---- Stylite, 218.
NIJNI-NOVGOROD, 38, 307.
NIKITA, Saint, 224.
---- the preacher, 203.
---- Romanof, 277.
NIKOLSKAVA, 153.
NIKOLSKI VOROT, 24, 153, 297.
NIKON, 177, 201.
NOBLES, Muscovite, 42, 81, 87, 114.
NOVGOROD THE GREAT, 5, 38, 57.
NOVI RIADI, 238.
NOVO DEVICHI CONVENT, 87, 265.
NOVO SPASSKI MONASTYR, 262.
O
ODDITIES, 208, 248.
"OLD BELIEVERS," 203.
OLEG, 5.
OLGA, 6.
OPRITCHNIKS, 56, 59 _ff._
ORTHODOXY and Dissent, 95, 202, 204.
ORUJENIA PALATA, 139.
OSLIABIA, 24.
OSMAN and Ahmed, 13.
OSTANKINA, 209.
OTREPIEF, 92.
"OUR Saviour on High," Ch. of, 128, 161, 280.
P
PAGEANTRY, Church, 243.
---- State, 123, 137, 243.
PALACE, Chequered, 38.
---- Golden, 82, 128.
---- Granovitaia, 43, 124, 131.
---- Great, 124.
---- Irene's, 80-82, 87.
---- Lesser Golden, 127.
PALACES, early, 40; site of, 124.
PALEOLOGUS, Thomas, 32.
---- Sophia, 33, 128, 232.
PANAGIES, 257.
PASSPORT, 304.
---- "to St Nicholas," 246.
PATRIARCHS, Passage of the, 127.
---- Sacristy of, 197.
---- 86, 96, 106, 177 _ff_, 215.
PATRIARSHIA RIZNITSA, 197 _ff._
PECHERSKI, 165, 253.
PERESVET, 24.
PETER I., 111, 121, 206, 209 _ff_, 215.
PETROVSKI MONASTERY, 250.
---- Palace, 301, 306.
---- RAZOOMOVSKI, 209.
PHILARET, Patriarch, 109, 116.
PHILIP, Metropolitan, 55.
---- Church of, 197.
PLAGUE RIOTS, 257.
PLATE, 140.
PLEASURE PALACE, 154, 166.
POJARSKI, Prince, 107, 114.
POLAND and Muscovy, 81, 132.
POLES in Moscow, 101.
POLISH INVASION, 99 _ff._
POTIESHNI DVORETS, 154, 166.
PRINCE and Peasant, 107, 114.
PROCESSIONS, 126, 243 _ff._
PROVERBS, Muscovite, 216.
PRUD, Chisty, 12, 251.
---- Krasnoe, 306.
---- Lizin, 261.
PUBLIC Buildings, 224.
---- Clocks, 195.
Q
QUAINT survivals, 244 _ff_, 249, 276.
QUEEN ELIZABETH, 77, 85.
R
RAMPARTS, Kitai-Gorod, 38, 238.
---- Kremlin, 148; town, 209, 306.
"RED," _see_ KRASNOE.
REDEEMER GATE, 181; and _see_ SPASSKI VOROT.
REGALIA, 140.
RELICS, 189, 192, 196, 255; and _see_ MOSHI.
RESTAURANTS, 252, 304.
RIDING-SCHOOL, 224.
RITES, Funeral, 246; Marriage, 38, 77, 250.
RITUAL of Russian Church, 184, 199.
ROJDESTVA, 181, 251.
ROMAN Church and Orthodoxy, 86, 95.
ROMANOF, Anastasia, 49, 109.
---- Dynasty, 109 _ff_; House, 108, 228. _See_ also ALEXIS, PETER, PHILARET, etc.
ROSTOPCHIN, Count, 287.
"ROYAL DOORS," 180, 197.
RUFFO, Marco, 131.
RUMIANTSEV MUSEUMS, 220.
RURIK, 5.
RUSSIA Company, 271 _ff._
S
SACRISTY of the Patriarchs, 197.
SAINTS, Russian, 184 _ff._
ST SAVIOUR'S, _see_ SPASS NA BORU, XRAM, etc.
SAKKOS, 256.
SANCTUARY, 188.
SCANDINAVIAN influence, 8.
SCHLITTE, John, 64.
SCHOOLS in Moscow, 123, 205, 210, 257.
SCOTS in Moscow, 273, 281.
SCYTHIANS, 5, 294.
SEMIRADSKI'S Pictures, 7.
SERFDOM, 86.
SERGIUS, Saint, 175.
SERVANTS' etiquette, 238.
SHALKAN, 277.
SHEIN, Captain, 105.
SHOOISKI, family, 48, 81; Vasili, 95 _ff_; Michael, 99.
SHRINES, 256.
SIMEON BEKBULATOV, 69, 262.
---- The Proud, 22.
SIMONOV MONASTYR, 260 _ff._
SKOPIN, Shooiski, 99, 192.
SKOPTSI, 203.
SKORODOM, 301.
SKUTAROV, Maluta, 56, 72.
SLAVERY, 265.
SLAVS, Early, 5.
SMOLENSK, 101, 105.
SNEGUIREV, 151, 188.
SOBORNIA PLOSHCHAD, 163.
SOLARIUS, P. A., 151.
SOLTIKOVS, 118, 241.
SOPHIA, Paleologus, 32, 128.
---- Tsarevna, 145, 211 _ff_, 255.
SORCERY in Moscow, 77, 121, 247.
SPARROW Hills, 1, 38, 42, 50, 251, 305.
SPASS NA BORU, 15, 22, 26, 29, 124, 196.
SPASSKI VOROT, 24, 58, 151, 279.
SRIETENKA (Meeting); street, 209.
---- Monastyr, 208.
"STANDARDS," Army, 140; church, 243.
STENKI-RAZIN, 145.
STRELTSI, 152, 207, 211-215.
STRIECHNEV, family of, 120.
STOVES, 95, 128, 230.
SUKHAREV BASHNIA, 208, 251.
SUSSANIN, 110.
SWEEDES, 113.
SYLVESTER, 50.
SYMBOLS, 35, 36, 140; Cross, 182; George and Dragon, 36; Two Headed Eagle, 35.
T
TAINITSKI GATE, 150.
TAKING the Veil, 38, 266.
TAMERLANE, 25.
TARTARS, allied with Muscovites, 21; cause of the invasions, 16; defeats of, 23, 32, 35; insult, Ivan Vasili, 38; Ivan IV., 64; invasions, 9, 16, 25, 26, 34, 38, 63, 82.
TAYLOR, John, 166, 280.
TEA, 235, 305.
TEREM, 41, 112, 117, 126; Life in, 234.
THEODORE I., 80 _ff._
---- II., 123 _ff._
---- Godunov, 92 _ff._
---- Romanof, 123, 128.
---- St. 259.
THRONES, State, 140; church, 189.
THRONOS, 181.
THURIFERS, 129.
TOKHTA, 19.
TOKHTAMYSH, Khan, 25.
TOMB of Eudoxia, Tsaritsa, 266.
---- of Dmitri, 191.
---- Ivan IV., 192.
---- Simeon, 262.
---- Sophia, Tsarevna, 266.
TOMBS of boyards, 263; of Matvievs, 219; of Romanofs, 263; of Tsars, 191; of Tsaritsas, 238; of Varægers, 191.
"TONGUES," 216.
TORTURE, 150, 239; _v._ CRUELTIES.
TOWER, _see_ also BASHNIA.
---- Alarm, 58.
---- Chastok, 245.
---- of Constantine, 150.
---- Ivan Veliki, 88, 155.
---- Kutaifa, 154.
---- Philaret, 156.
---- Sukharev, 208.
---- Traitors', 150.
---- Tsaritsa's, 150.
---- Watch, 245.
TRADERS, Muscovite, 237.
"TRANQUIL" TSAR, 145.
TREASURY, 139; and _see_ ORUJENIA PALATA.
TREASURY, Churches, used as, 41.
TRETIAKOV ART GALLERY, 221.
TRIAL by Combat, 240.
TRINITY CHURCH, 154, 294.
TRIUMFALNIA, 223.
TROITSA MONASTERY, 12, 24, 27, 31, 101.
TROITSKI VOROT, 154, 291.
TURBERVILLE, 232.
TVER and Moscow, 18, 21, 57.
"TWENTY NATIONS," Invasion of, 286 _ff._
U
UGLITCH, 21, 85, 97.
UGOL, Krasnoe, 132.
UNIVERSITIES, 224.
URUSOV, Princess, 202.
USBEK, Khan, 22.
USPENSKI SOBOR, 22, 117, 130, 158, 185 _ff._
USUPOV HOUSE, 219.
V
VAL, Krimski, 265.
---- ZEMLIANNI, 289.
VAROEGERS, 5.
VARVARKA, 228.
---- Vorot, 238.
VASILI I., 26.
VASILI II., 28, 31.
VASILI III., 37.
VASILI BLAJENNI, 67.
---- ---- Ch. of, 47, 65, 67, 179.
VASILI THE BLIND, 26; "the squint-eyed," 28.
VASSIAN, Archbishop, 34, 52.
VEHICLES, Primitive, 247.
VERESHCHAGIN, 221.
VEKKHOSPASSKI CHURCH, 128, 161, 280.
VESTMENTS, Sacerdotal, 198.
VIEWS of Moscow, 251.
VIRGIN of Jerusalem, 187.
---- of Kazan, 205.
---- of Pechersk, 165.
---- of Smolensk, 141, 244.
---- of Vladimir, 187 _ff._
VISSOTSKI, 251.
VLADIMIR, the Great, 6, 139; the Brave, 28; Town of, 23.
VLADIMIRSKI VOROT, 205.
VLADISLAS, Tsar, 101.
VOIEVODES, 35, 42, 63.
VOROT, or Gate,
---- Arbatski, 82.
---- Borovitski, 41, 149, 291, 299.
---- Florovski, 24, 151.
---- Ilyinski, 39.
---- Jerusalem, 151.
---- Krasnoe, 219.
---- Krutitski, 122, 142.
---- Nikolski, 24, 153, 297.
---- Prechistenski, 41, 149, 291.
---- "Red," 219.
VOROT Redeemer, 24, 58, 151.
---- Spasski, 58, 151.
---- Sukharev, 208.
---- Tainitski, 150.
---- Troitski, 154.
---- Varvarka, 238.
---- Vladimirski, 205, 207.
---- Vosskresenski, 141.
VOSSKRESENSKI VOROT, 141 _ff._, 201, 244.
VOSSNESENSKI MONASTYR, 44, 257 _ff._
VSEVOLOJSKIS, 120.
VSEVOLOSHSKI, 28.
W
WALLS OF BIELO-GOROD, 82.
---- of Kitai-Gorod, 38, 238.
---- of Kremlin, 23, 148.
---- of Zemlianni-Gorod, 209.
WATCH Towers, 245.
WEAPONS, Muscovite, 139.
WINTER in Moscow, 226.
WIVES of Ivan IV., 77.
---- of Peter I., 213, 216.
WIZARDS, 77, 121.
WOMEN in Mediæval Moscow, 8, 33, 48, 61, 62, 72, 81, 86, 118, 121, 137, 213, 216, 231 _ff_, 269, 278.
X
XENIA, Princess, 94.
XRAM, 298, 299.
Y
YAUZA, 249.
YERMAK, 63, 81.
YURI Dmitrovich, 28.
---- Dolgoruki, 28, 36.
Z
ZABIELIN'S private life of Tsars, 134.
ZACHATIEVSKI, 260.
ZA-IKONO-SPASSKI MONASTYR, 205.
ZAMOSKVORETSKI, 264, 293.
ZAPIEHA, 101.
ZAPOROGIANS, 91 _ff._
ZARIADI, 205.
ZARUTSKI, 113.
ZEMLIANNI GOROD, 209.
ZLATOUSTINSKI, 219.
ZNAMIA, 243.
PRINTED BY TURNBULL AND SPEARS, EDINBURGH
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
the villiage of Palekh=> the village of Palekh {pg 132}
upon _fete_ days=> upon _fête_ days {pg 134}
timbers will sagg=> timbers will sag {pg 168}
as an old man=> as on old man {pg 175}
a raised dias=> a raised dais {pg 181}
orignal=> original {pg 182}
interest to Anglican's=> interest to Anglicans {pg 308}