Chapter 5
If a double broiler is used the turning is managed easily, but with a single gridiron care must be taken not to puncture the meat by using a fork. Steak tongs are made for the purpose of lifting and turning broiled meat, but a spoon or a spoon and knife will answer. A single rim of fat on the chop or steak will tend to keep the edge moist and baste the meat, but too much will cause flame to rise in continuous jet, making the surface smoky. If there is absolutely no fat on the piece to be broiled, morsels of finely chopped suet may be occasionally thrown into the fire, so the sudden spurt of flame from this source leaves a deposit of fat on the meat which improves the flavor, and, without softening the albumen, prevents its becoming uneatably hard and dry.
Frying
Frying may be looked on as a derivative of broiling, and passes by easy stages, from broiling on a slightly greased metal plate, or _sautéing_ in a shallow pan in a small quantity of Crisco, to cooking by actual immersion into a bath of hot fat. In a house where small and delicately made dishes are in demand, and where variety in the re-dressing of cold meats has to be studied, this frying in deep fat is one of the cook's most needed accomplishments. Though exceedingly easy to do well, it is also exceedingly easy to do badly.
Deep fat frying, which means submerging the food in the fat, is far superior to shallow or saute frying, and can be done most economically with Crisco. Little is absorbed by the foods, and the Crisco does not take up the odor or flavor of the food which is fried in it. This characteristic makes it possible to use Crisco for frying one article of food after another.
Use _plenty_ of Crisco for frying. The temperature of the hot Crisco then will be but little lowered when the food is added. There is little absorption and what is left may be used for _all_ frying, merely by straining out food particles after each frying.
Sufficient Crisco should be put into the pan to fill it about two-thirds full. From two to three pounds for a pan eight inches in diameter will not be too much. Into this pan or kettle a wire "frying-basket" should fit quite loosely, the basket measuring quite an inch less across the top than the pan.
Let Crisco get hot gradually in the pan. Do not put into an already hot container. No fat should be treated in this manner.
Do Not Wait for Crisco to Smoke
Heat Crisco until a crumb of bread becomes a golden brown in
60 seconds for raw dough mixtures, as crullers, fritters, etc.
40 seconds for cooked mixtures, as croquettes, codfish balls, etc.
20 seconds for French fried potatoes.
Seconds may be counted thus: one hundred and one, one hundred and two, etc.
The fat may be tested also by dropping into it a little piece of the article to be cooked. When it rises to the top, bubbles vigorously and browns quickly, the fat is hot enough.
When prepared, the foods must be placed in the basket, not too many at a time or too close together, and then lowered gently into the fat. They generally will sink to the bottom for a minute or two, and only float when they have begun to brown. When a bright golden brown, take up the basket and let the fried things drain in it, over the hot fat, for a few seconds. Then take them out gently one by one, and lay them on a sheet of brown or kitchen paper.
The draining over the pan is one of the principal things to attend to; if this be neglected, the fat will cling about the fried things, making them both look and taste greasy, whereas if properly drained in the basket to begin with, they will afterwards scarcely mark the paper. When, as is sometimes the case, no frying basket is used, each thing fried should be drained between a spoon and the edge of the pan.
To Clarify
It is economy to use three pounds in the kettle, clarifying the fat when it is put away. To clarify Crisco, take that which has been used for deep frying and when it has cooled, but not solidified, strain through a double thickness of cheese cloth, replace kettle on stove, drop several slices of potato into the Crisco and reheat. When the potatoes are golden brown, take out and pour the Crisco back into the tin. With this little care, fish, oysters, onions, chops, fritters, doughnuts, etc., may be fried over and over again in the same Crisco.
The dry or saute method of frying is less satisfactory, in that it is difficult even after much practice to produce a uniformly colored surface. A small quantity of fat only is needed, and where the fat, i.e., the heat, ends, a crack is formed in the outer coat, through which flavor escapes and fat enters; the appearance also is rendered unsightly. Flat fish can be fried fairly well by this method, or, indeed, almost any thin substance, as thin edges are not affected in this way. For pancakes and other articles of similar nature it is the best method. It rarely is possible to use the fat from the dry method a second time, except for dishes of the same kind, as the fat always is more or less flavored by the food cooked in it. The most digestible fat for frying and the best for results undoubtedly is Crisco.
Steaming
Steaming is a process very similar to boiling, for it is cooking in the heated vapor of water. This practice as a means of cookery is largely adopted in hotels, clubs, schools and hospitals, and other large institutions; also frequently applied in ordinary home cookery for particular articles of food requiring a very slow process of cooking. An ordinary kitchen steamer, with a close-fitting lid is generally all that is required for simple household cookery on a small scale. The articles of food which are to be steamed are prepared in exactly the same manner as for boiling. Many puddings, some meats, and some vegetables are considered better if cooked by steam, and inasmuch as the process of cooking is a very slow one, there is no fear of the food being destroyed by too fierce a heat, as the temperature in steaming never reaches beyond 212° F. Fish, meat and poultry cooked by steam are as a rule tender, full of gravy and digestible. By steaming, watery vegetables are made drier; tough meats are softened and made tender; while farinaceous mixtures and puddings develop a totally different flavor when baked or fried.
Braising
Braising is a combination of roasting and stewing small joints of meat in a shallow stewpan. It is a favorite method of cooking with the French, and is supposed to bring out an unusually fine flavor and aroma. The pan in which a braise is to be made always should be lined with slices of bacon, carrot, onions and herbs, upon which the meat is placed. It usually is moistened with stock or stock and wine. The more delicate meats, such as sweetbreads, fillets, fowls and turkeys sometimes are covered with buttered paper; this is done to prevent the heat from the top of the pan scorching or imparting too much of a roast flavor to the meats which are to be braised. Occasional basting during the process of this method of cooking is essential. When done, the meat is taken up, the fat removed from the vegetables and gravy, which latter is then reduced, strained and blended with some kind of gravy or thin sauce.
Poaching and Marinating
Poaching is the name usually given to the process of cooking an article by placing it for a few minutes in boiling water. Marinating or pickling is a process with a formidable name with a simple meaning. To marinate simply is to soak meat in a mixture for some hours, or even days, with the idea of improving its flavor of softening its fibres and making it tender. Vinegar, oil, pepper and salt are mixed together and the meat packed in the mixture; sometimes a sliced onion and herbs are added. The meat, of course, should be wiped first, but not washed.
Cooking in Earthenware
Stone or earthenware cooking appliances are used to very great advantage for various forms of preparing food. For the homely _pot-au-feu_ the French housewife has used fireproof earthenware dishes for generations, and does so today. But besides soups, various savory dishes, and all sorts of stews are cooked in stoneware pots. Indeed, so much has this form of cookery come into fashion that many dishes are sent to table in the pots in which they are cooked. Cooking in stoneware has no equal where slow cooking is aimed at, and there are many dishes which one would do well to refrain from attempting unless cooked in this fashion. These cooking pots are inexpensive, and certain foods taste decidedly better if cooked in this way. For braising, pot roasting, or stewing fruit and other articles which need to be cooked slowly under close cover, the application of a moderate, even heat produces far better results than if quick heat is applied. For such cases the use of earthenware cooking pots is recommended.
_Time Table for Cooking_
Baking
Beef, loin or ribs, rare, per lb. 8 to 10 minutes Beef, loin or ribs, well done, per lb. 12 to 16 minutes Beef, ribs, rolled, rare 12 to 15 minutes Beef, ribs, rolled, well done 15 to 18 minutes Beef, fillet, rare 20 to 30 minutes Beef, fillet, well done 60 minutes Mutton, leg, rare, per lb. 10 minutes Mutton, leg, well done, per lb. 14 minutes Mutton, forequarter, stuffed, per lb. 15 to 25 minutes Lamb, well done, per lb. 15 to 20 minutes Veal, well done, per lb. 18 to 22 minutes Pork, well done, per lb. 20 minutes Venison, rare, per lb. 10 minutes Chicken, per lb. 15 to 20 minutes Turkey, nine lbs. 3 hours Goose, nine lbs. 2-1/2 hours Duck, domestic 1 to 1-1/4 hours Duck, wild 20 to 30 minutes Grouse 25 to 30 minutes Ham 4 to 6 hours Fish, 3 or 4 lbs. 45 to 60 minutes Small fish and fillets 20 minutes Beans with pork 6 to 8 hours Bread, white loaf 45 to 60 minutes Graham loaf 35 to 45 minutes Baking powder biscuits 12 to 15 minutes Gems 25 to 30 minutes Quick doughs 8 to 15 minutes Cookies 8 to 10 minutes Gingerbread 20 to 30 minutes Sponge cake 45 to 60 minutes Cake, layer 20 to 30 minutes Cake, loaf 40 to 60 minutes Fruit cake 2 to 3 hours Cake, wedding 3 to 5 hours Cakes, small 15 to 25 minutes Batter puddings 35 to 45 minutes Pies 30 to 50 minutes Tarts 15 to 20 minutes Patties 15 to 25 minutes Vol-au-vent 50 to 60 minutes Muffins, yeast 30 minutes Muffins, baking powder 20 to 25 minutes Indian pudding 2 to 3 hours Rice or tapioca pudding 1 hour Bread puddings 45 to 60 minutes Scallop dishes 15 to 20 minutes Custard 35 to 45 minutes Custard in cups 20 to 25 minutes
Boiling
MEATS 2 to 6 hours Corned meat 4 to 6 hours Ox tongue 3 to 4 hours Ham, 12 to 14 lbs 4 to 5 hours Turkey, 10 lbs 3 to 3-1/2 hours Fowl, 4 to 5 lbs 2 to 3 hours Chicken, 3 lbs 1 to 1-1/2 hours Fish, 2 to 5 lbs 30 to 45 minutes Lobster 25 to 30 minutes Cod, 3 to 5 lbs 20 to 30 minutes Haddock, 3 to 5 lbs 20 to 30 minutes Halibut, thick piece, per lb 15 minutes Salmon, thick piece, per lb 10 to 15 minutes Asparagus 20 to 30 minutes Beans, shell or string 1 to 3 hours Beets, young 50 minutes Beets, old 3 to 4 hours Brussels Sprouts 15 to 20 minutes Cabbage 35 to 60 minutes Carrots 1 hour Cauliflower 25 to 30 minutes Corn 12 to 20 minutes Macaroni 20 to 35 minutes Turnips 30 to 45 minutes Onions 45 to 60 minutes Parsnips 30 to 45 minutes Spinach 15 to 20 minutes Tomatoes, stewed 15 to 20 minutes Rice 20 to 30 minutes
Broiling
Steak, 1 inch thick 4 to 10 minutes Steak, 1-1/2 inches thick 8 to 12 minutes Lamb or mutton chops 6 to 10 minutes Chicken 20 minutes Quails 8 minutes Squabs 10 to 12 minutes Shad, whitefish and bluefish 15 to 20 minutes Fish slices 12 to 15 minutes Liver 4 to 5 minutes
Frying
Smelts and other small fish 3 to 5 minutes Breaded chops 5 to 8 minutes Potatoes, raw 4 to 8 minutes Fish balls and croquettes 1 minute Muffins, fritters, and doughnuts 3 to 5 minutes
Weights and Measures
27-1/3 grains 1 dram 16 drams 1 ounce 16 ounces 1 pound 1 teaspoonful 60 drops 3 teaspoonfuls 1 tablespoonful 4 tablespoonfuls 1 wineglass, 1/2 gill, or 1/4 cup 16 tablespoonfuls 1 cup 2 gills 1 cup 2 cups 1 pint 2 pints 1 quart 4 quarts 1 gallon 2 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1 ounce 2 tablespoonfuls salt 1 ounce 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 1 ounce 4 tablespoonfuls flour 1 ounce 1 tablespoonful liquid 1/2 ounce 1 square chocolate 1 ounce 1/3 cupful chopped nut meats (blanched) 1 ounce 1 cupful currants 1/4 pound 1 cupful crumbs 1/4 pound 4-1/3 cupfuls coffee 1 pound 3-1/2 cupfuls confectioners' sugar 1 pound 4-1/2 cupfuls graham flour 1 pound 2-2/3 cupfuls oatmeal 1 pound 5 cupfuls rolled oats 1 pound 4-1/3 cupfuls rye meal 1 pound 1-7/8 cupfuls rice 1 pound 2-1/3 cupfuls dry beans 1 pound 2 cupfuls granulated sugar 1 pound 2-2/3 cupfuls brown sugar 1 pound 2-2/3 cupfuls powdered sugar 1 pound 1 cupful (volume) 8 ounces 1 cupful water 8-1/3 ounces 1 pint butter 1 pound 1 quart-flour 1 pound 10 small or 9 medium eggs 1 pound
All materials are measured level, i.e., by filling spoon or cup more than full and leveling with a case knife.
To measure meal, flour, sugar and similar ingredients, sift lightly into the measure, then level.
Standard measuring cups made of tin, aluminum or glass holding half a pint always should be used. Coffee and teacups vary so much that correct proportions can not be obtained by using them.
To measure a spoonful of dry material, fill the spoon heaping, then level. To measure a half-spoonful, fill and level the spoon, then divide in half lengthways; for quarter-spoonfuls, divide the halves crossways.
_Use level measurements in all recipes in this book._
_The Art of Carving_
Carving is an art, and one which anybody, with a knowledge of a few general directions, can acquire easily.
A proper set of carving tools is almost indispensable, and should comprise: a good thin, sharp-bladed knife, a solid two or three pronged fork, and a pair of carving scissors. Anything that needs to be carved at table should be placed on a dish sufficiently large to allow the joint to be turned without moving the dish from its position. The dish should be placed close in front of the carver. Such joints as beef, veal and ham should be cut very thin; while lamb, mutton, and pork should be cut a trifle thicker.
_To carve a fowl_, begin by sticking the fork into the pinion and draw it towards the leg; and then, passing the knife underneath, take off the wing at the joint. Next slip the knife between leg and body, to cut through the joint; and with the fork turn leg back, and joint will give way. Then take off other wing and leg. After legs are taken off, enter knife into the top of breast, and cut under merrythought or wishbone so as to loosen it, lifting it with the fork. Afterwards cut slices from both sides of breast. Next, take off collarbones, which lie on each side of wishbone and then separate side bones from the back. The breast and wings are considered the most delicate parts; the back as the least desirable, generally is left on platter.
_A turkey_ is carved in same manner, except that the legs and wings, being larger, are separated at lower joint. Lower part of leg (or drumstick) being hard, tough, and stringy, usually is allowed to remain on platter. First cut off wing, leg, and breast from one side; then turn turkey round and cut them off from the other.
_To carve a goose_, separate leg from body by putting fork into small end of leg, pressing it close to body, and then passing knife under, and turning leg back as you cut through joint. To take off wing, put fork into the small end of wing, and press it closely to body, then slip knife under and separate the joint. Next, cut under wishbone and take it off, and cut slices from breast. Then turn and dismember the other side. Take off upper side bones next to wings, then two lower side bones. The breast and legs of a goose are considered the most choice. If a goose is old, there is no fowl so tough.
_Quails_ merely are split down the back, as also are pigeons, giving a half to each person.
_To carve loin of mutton,_ a portion is cut through, beginning at the best end. If kidney be in it, a slice should be served as far as it will go to each portion. Care must be taken that the bone is well jointed. The butcher chops the loin between each vertebra. When big mutton is carved it gives a large chop, oftentimes more than the amount desired, but a chop cannot be divided without waste, or one portion being all the inferior end. It is therefore a good plan to joint a loin of mutton with a small meat saw, cutting any thickness desired. In this case the actual bone will often have to be sawn through. The result will be more economical, and the servings more agreeable. The loin also can be boned entirely, stuffed or not, as preferred, the flap end folded and fastened over the fillet portion. Then the meat can be carved across any thickness.
_To carve leg of mutton,_ stand joint the inner part of the leg uppermost and cut across center to bone, towards carver, then cut rather thick slices on either side. To serve the meat equally, unless any special part is desired, a portion of the knuckle is served with a slice of the thick end. The prime fat is the kernel of fat at the thick end.
_To carve forequarter of mutton or lamb._ The forequarter of mutton usually is not served whole unless the mutton be very small. The forequarter of lamb frequently is served whole. Before cooking it must be jointed through the chine of bone at the back, to enable this portion being served in chops, twice across the breastbones the entire length, and at short intervals at the edge of the breast. Before serving it is usual to separate the shoulder by pressing the fork in by the knuckle, then passing knife round shoulder, crossing about center of joint, raising shoulder without cutting too much meat off breast. Leave shoulder in position on joint; a second dish is sent to table on which to lay it while the other part is being carved.
_To carve rabbit or hare._ In either case first separate legs and shoulders; then cut the back part across, into two parts. This is accomplished best by inserting the knife into joint, and raising up the back by means of the fork. The back or fillet part is considered the best portion of a hare or rabbit.
_To carve sirloin of beef,_ a sirloin should be cut into thin slices with a sharp, firm cut from end to end of the joint. At the upper portion the cut should be clean and even; then use point of knife to loosen slices from bones. In carving undercut, remove superfluous fat, and cut slices from end to end in same manner as upper portion. Be careful always to cut down straight to the bone of a sirloin or rib of beef; by so doing you will not spoil appearance of joint, and what remains will look tidy.
_To carve ham._ Ham should be cut through to the bone first from center or near thin end. Slices must be cut thin. Always commence cutting from upper side. The fairest way by far, so as to serve fat and lean evenly, is to begin cutting from center of thickest part, and to cut thin circular slices; by this means the flavor of the ham is far better, and it will prove to be the more economical way of serving.
_To carve ox-tongue._ Commence cutting from middle of tongue; cut slices not too thin and take them from each side being careful not to cut slices through to bottom part of tongue. Extreme end of the tip and the lower part of tongue generally are used up for chopping in salpicons, etc. A little of the fat should be put on each plate. When rolled tongue is served it must be cut horizontally into rather thin slices.
_To carve fish._ A silver sheer or trowel should be used for this purpose; a steel knife applied to fish often spoils the delicacy of its flavor. Great care must be taken to prevent breaking the flakes, which ought to be kept as entire as possible. Short-grained fish, such as salmon, etc., should be cut lengthwise, not crosswise.
Six Hundred and Fifteen Tested Recipes
"Calendar of Dinners"
by Marion Harris Neil
SOUPS