Part 33
VII.—BURLEIGH, LINCOLNSHIRE 1128
VIII.—HEVER CASTLE, KENT 1147
IX.—WESTWOOD PARK, WORCESTERSHIRE 1160
X.—MELBOURNE HALL, DERBYSHIRE 1186
XI.—SOMERLEYTON, SUFFOLK 1203
XII.—WILTON HOUSE, WILTSHIRE 1224
XIII.—RABY CASTLE, DURHAM 1242
XIV.—CLIEFDEN, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE 1265
XV.—WARNHAM COURT, SUSSEX 1280
XVI.—LOWTHER CASTLE, WESTMORELAND 1291
XVII.—CLUMBER, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE 1317
XVIII.—WELBECK, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE 1327
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
SECOND SERIES.
Page I.—BELVOIR CASTLE.
View from one of the Towers 1001 Belvoir Castle from the Grantham Road 1002 Arms of De Todeni, De Albini, and De Ros 1003 Ancient Arms of Manners 1006 Belvoir Castle from the North-west, showing the Grand Entrance 1008 Augmented Arms of Manners 1009 Arms of Duke of Rutland 1014 Belvoir Castle from the North-west 1015 The Grand Corridor, or Ball-room 1021 The Duchess’s Garden 1024 The Statue Garden 1025 Belvoir Castle, from the Stables, showing the Covered Exercise-ground 1027 The Gardener’s Cottage 1028
II.—TRENTHAM.
Arms of Duke of Sutherland 1032 Trentham, from Monument Hill, Tittensor 1034 Statue of Sir Richard Leveson in theourtyard at Trentham 1036 Monument of Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, Trentham Church 1040 The South Front, from the Italian Gardens 1043 The South Front, with Grecian Temple 1045 The Conservatory and Private Wing, South Front 1046 The Private Conservatory 1047 Trentham Church 1049 The Upper Terrace Garden, Italian Garden, and Lake 1051 The Gardener’s Cottage 1053 Children’s Cottage and Gardens 1054
III.—KNOLE.
Fire Dogs 1056 Front View from the Park 1058 The South Front 1062 Knole, from the Garden 1065 The Brown Gallery 1067 The Cartoon Gallery 1069 The King’s Bed-room 1070 The Staircase 1071 The Retainers’ Gallery 1072
IV.—CASTLE HOWARD.
In the Grounds 1074 The South Front 1079 The Garden Front 1080 The Mausoleum 1084 The Dairy 1085 The Great Hall 1086 The Garden 1090 The Grand Fountain 1091
V.—KEDLESTON HALL.
Vase in Garden 1093 The Hall and Bridge from the Park 1096 Arms of Lord Scarsdale 1099 Arms of Leke 1100 The North Front 1102 The Great Hall 1103 The Saloon 1105 The South or Garden Front 1107 Kedleston Church, from the West 1110 Kedleston Church, Interior 1111
VI.—AUDLEY END.
The Lodge 1114 The West Front 1115 East Front, from the Garden 1118 South Front 1120 The Entrance Porch, West Front 1122 The Temple of Concord 1124 The Garden 1125
VII.—BURLEIGH.
Arms of Marquis of Exeter 1128 Burleigh House, from the Park 1130 West View 1131 North View 1134 East View 1135 The Quadrangle, looking West 1139 The Great Hall 1141 The Ancient Stone Staircase 1143
VIII.—HEVER CASTLE.
Axe and Crown 1147 Entrance Gateway, with Portcullis 1149 Hever Castle, from the East 1153 Hever Castle, from the West 1154 Anne Boleyn’s Chamber 1156 Hever Castle: the Court-yard 1157 In the Long Gallery 1158
IX.—WESTWOOD PARK.
Arms of Lord Hampton 1160 Entrance Lodge 1161 Westwood, from the Main Approach 1162 The Gatehouse, as seen from the Mansion 1164 The Entrance Porch 1165 The Grand Staircase 1168 The Saloon 1169 Armorial Initial Letter 1171 North-east View 1173 The North Front 1177 The Principal Front 1179 Hampton Lovett Church 1182
X.—MELBOURNE HALL.
The Fountain 1186 Arms of Coke 1189 Melbourne Hall, from the Garden 1191 The Gardens and Yew Tunnel 1194 The Gardens, as seen from the Hall 1195 Melbourne Church, West Doorway 1198 King’s Newton Hall as it was 1199 Holy Well, King’s Newton 1200 The Trent and Weston Cliff 1201 The Trent and Donington Cliff 1202
XI.—SOMERLEYTON.
Iron-work Monogram 1203 The South Lodge 1205 The Front 1207 The West Front 1209 North-east View 1211 In the Winter Garden. Spanish Dancers, Hautmann 1213 In the Winter Garden. Statue, Hautmann 1214 In the Winter Garden. Statue of Hymen, Byrtrom 1215 In the Winter Garden. Nymph at her Toilet, Haudmauer 1216 Somerleyton Church 1221
XII.—WILTON HOUSE.
Initial Letter 1224 The Principal Front 1225 Wilton, from the River 1230 The Cedars 1231 The Hall 1233 The Drawing-room 1234 The New Church at Wilton 1237 Salisbury Cathedral 1240
XIII.—RABY CASTLE.
South Side 1243 North-east Side 1246 South and East Sides 1249 East Side 1256 Raby Castle, from the West 1257 Raby Castle, West Side 1262
XIV.—CLIEFDEN.
Cliefden, from the Thames 1266 The Thames at Cliefden 1268 Cliefden: the Cottage 1269 Cliefden: the Summer Cottage 1270 The Principal Front 1273 The Summer House 1276
XV.—WARNHAM COURT.
Distant View from the Lake 1281 The South or Grand Terrace 1283 The Garden Front 1284 The Mansion and Conservatory, from the Grounds 1285 View from the North-west 1288
XVI.—LOWTHER CASTLE.
North Front 1293 Arms of the Earl of Lonsdale 1297 South Front 1298 The Sculpture Gallery 1303 Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and Drumburgh 1304 Roman Altars from Old Penrith 1306 Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and Drumburgh 1307 Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and Drumburgh 1308 Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and Drumburgh 1309 In the Grounds of Lowther Castle 1311
XVII.—CLUMBER.
West Front 1318 Roman Sepulchral Altars 1324 Roman Sepulchral Altars 1325
XVIII.—WELBECK.
West Front and Oxford Wing 1328 Arms of Cavendish 1331 Arms of Hardwick 1332 Autograph of the Countess of Shrewsbury 1333 Margaret (Lucas) Duchess of Newcastle 1336 Arms of Holles 1337 Arms of Bentinck 1338 Arms of the Duke of Portland 1341 Part of Welbeck in 1658 1342 Welbeck, from the South-east 1346 The Riding School 1348 The Greendale Oak 1354
BELVOIR CASTLE.
ONE of the most majestic in character, commanding in situation, picturesque in surroundings, and striking in its arrangements, of all the “Stately Homes of England,” is Belvoir Castle, the grand old seat of his Grace the Duke of Rutland. Stately among the stateliest, and standing on an eminence in the midst of an undulating country, the one object on which the eye rests from whichever side it is approached, the castle commands uninterrupted views ranging over three separate counties, and embracing within its ken such a variety of plain and water, wood and valley, hill and meadow, as no other “Home” can boast. Situated nearly at the junction of the three counties of Leicester, Nottingham, and Lincoln, the panoramic view obtained from the castle combines the characteristics of each, and its extent ranges over an area of fifty or sixty miles in diameter—being on one side bounded by Lincoln Minster (which is, in a clear atmosphere, distinctly visible) and the hills beyond, although thirty miles off “as the crow flies.” Its immediate neighbourhood, the lovely and fertile “vale of Belvoir,” the theme of poet and prose-writer, and the delight of the painter and lover of nature, lies immediately below, while beyond are miles of lovely country, gloriously diversified with wood and water, and studded at intervals with hamlets, villages, and homesteads, which add greatly to the beauty of the scene.
A marked and peculiar character of Belvoir, and one of its greatest charms, is that it stands in the midst of this open country, not within the confines of its own park. There is no enclosed park; and park palings, lodges, bolts, bars, and locks are unknown. The Duke, in this noble mansion, rests in the midst of his immense estates, and draws no cordon around him. The roads, right up to the very castle, are open and free to all, and restriction is unknown. For miles in extent, and from every side, the public may wander on foot, or ride or drive, through the estate and up to the very doors, unmolested, and untrammelled by fear of porters, or deterred by appliances of state or ceremony. The stronghold of the De Todenis, the Albinis, the Especs, the De Ros’, and the Manners’, thus nestles securely in the very heart of the country, as does its noble owner—the descendant and representative of this long line of illustrious men—in the hearts of his tenantry, his friends, and all who have the privilege of knowing him.
The history of Belvoir Castle dates back to very early times, and is invested with more than ordinary interest. Leaving the question as to its site having originally been a Celtic stronghold taken possession of and formed into a station, or something of the kind, by the Romans, to be discussed elsewhere, it is sufficient for our present purpose to say that at the Norman Conquest, Belvoir, with some fourscore manors, was given by William the Conqueror to his faithful standard-bearer, Robert de Todeni, who here built a castle and founded a monastery. This monastery, situated at the foot of the castle hill, and on whose site many interesting remains have in late years been exhumed, was established in 1077, and was endowed with large estates; its founder, Robert Belvidir or De Todeni, agreeing to give to it for ever a tenth part of all the lands he might acquire by the help of God or the grant of the King. This priory was established for four monks of the Benedictine Order (and afterwards became a cell of the Abbey of St. Albans), who were to pray for the souls of the King, of the Earl of Cornwall, of Robert de Todeni, and Adelais, his wife, and of their parents and children. Robert de Todeni died in 1088, and, with his wife, who predeceased him, was buried in the priory at Belvoir which he had founded. He was succeeded by his son William, who took the surname of De Albini Brito, by whom the grants to the priory were confirmed and increased, and he obtained for the monks a grant of a fair for eight days in the year on the feast of St. John the Baptist. He married Maud de St. Liz, widow of Robert de Tonebrigg, daughter of Simon, Earl of Northampton and Huntingdon, and, dying in 1155, he, too, was buried at Belvoir, and was succeeded by his son, William de Albini, or Meschines (also buried here), who in turn was succeeded by his son, the third William de Albini, whose name, in connection with King John and Magna Charta, is matter of history. During his imprisonment at Corfe Castle by his unforgiving king, Belvoir Castle was, at the summons of the sovereign, surrendered into his hands. Under Henry III., Albini, being reinstated in favour, had a chief command at the battle of Lincoln, and took part in most of the stirring events of the period. Besides adding to the endowments of Belvoir Priory, he founded the Hospital of Our Lady at Newstead, for the health of the souls of himself and his two wives, and there his body was buried in 1236, while his heart was placed under the wall opposite the high altar at Belvoir. He married Agatha Trusbut, for the privilege of marrying whom he gave the King 600 marks (about £6,000 of our money). He was succeeded by his son, the fourth William de Albini, or, as he was called, William de Belvoir, who left no male issue, but, by his wife Albreda Biset, had an only child, a daughter Isabel, who married Robert de Ros, Lord of Hamlake, fifth in regular descent from Peter de Ros, who, by marriage with Adeline, daughter of Walter Espec, became the inheritor of two princely fortunes. Thus by the marriage of Isabel de Albini with Robert de Ros the estates of Espec, Ros, and Albini became united.
This Robert de Ros, after his accession to the Belvoir estates, obtained a grant of free warren and a weekly market there from Henry III. Later on, as one of the insurgent barons, he was imprisoned and fined. In 1267 he raised a new embattled and fortified wall at Belvoir Castle. He died in 1285; his body being buried at Kirkham, his bowels before the high altar at Belvoir, and his heart at Croxton Abbey. At the suppression of the monasteries part of the monument which had been placed over his heart at Croxton was removed to Bottesford Church, where it still remains in the chancel wall. His widow, Isabel, died in 1301, and was buried at Newstead. He was succeeded by his son, William de Ros, who became an unsuccessful competitor for the crown of Scotland, founding his claim on his descent from his great-grandmother Isabel, daughter to William the Lion, King of Scotland. By his marriage with Matilda de Vaux he added to the family estates and ecclesiastical patronage; and on his death, in 1317, was succeeded by his son, William de Ros, who was created Lord Ros of Werke; became Baron Ros of Hamlake, Werke, Belvoir, and Trusbut; was summoned to Parliament, second Edward II. to sixteenth Edward III.; was made Lord High Admiral, and one of the Commissioners to treat for peace with Robert Bruce. He died in 1342, and was succeeded by his son, William de Ros, who, after a busy military life, fighting against the Scots, at the siege of Calais, and against the Saracens, died on his way to the Holy Land, and was buried abroad. He married Margaret, daughter of Ralph, Lord Nevill, who survived him, and afterwards married Sir Henry de Percy.
Dying without issue he was succeeded by his brother, Thomas de Ros; who, having married, in 1359, Beatrice, daughter of the Earl of Strafford and widow of the Earl of Desmond, was in turn followed by his son, John de Ros, who dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother, Sir William de Ros. Sir William was, with Walter, Bishop of Durham, and the Earl of Northumberland, sent by King Henry IV. to arrange a treaty of peace with Scotland. He was a favourite with the King, who gave him many important offices; made him a K.G.; and granted him the town of Chingford, in Essex. By his wife, Margaret, of the family of the Earl of Arundel, Sir William had issue five sons and four daughters. He died at Belvoir Castle in 1414, and was buried in the choir of that priory, his monument being now at Bottesford. The next in succession was John de Ros, son of the last named, who came to the title and estates when only seventeen years of age. He was killed along with the Duke of Clarence and others in 1421; and, dying without issue, had for successor his brother, Sir Thomas de Ros, who married Eleanor, daughter of Richard de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, by whom he had issue three sons, of whom his successor, Thomas, Lord Ros, was the eldest, and who, at his father’s death in 1431, was only four years of age.
This nobleman, Thomas, Baron Ros of Hamlake, Trusbut, and Belvoir, was by the King put into full possession of his father’s estates when only eighteen years of age. He married Philippa, eldest daughter of John de Tiptoft, by whom he had issue one son and four daughters. For his fidelity to the House of Lancaster in the Wars of the Roses, he was, with his adherents, attainted in Parliament in 1461, and is said by Rapin to have been beheaded. His estates were confiscated, and given to various adherents of the House of York; Lord Hastings receiving Belvoir and its members. By him Belvoir Castle was utterly despoiled, he carrying away the lead from the roofs to Ashby-de-la-Zouch, to use in his own castle there, and rendering the place no better than a ruin.
The next in succession, Edmund, Lord Ros, was by Henry VII. (who had united the rival houses) restored to his father’s state and dignity; the attainder was removed; and the Belvoir and other estates returned to him. He died in 1508, at his house of Elsinges, at Enfield (in the church at which, place is a noble monument erected to his memory), without issue, and his estates were divided between his sisters and co-heiresses—viz. Eleanor, married to Sir Robert Manners, Knight; and Isabel, married to Sir Thomas Lovel. Belvoir, with Hamlake in Yorkshire, and Orston in Nottinghamshire, being the portion of the elder sister, Eleanor, thus passed into the hands of the family of Manners, in whom it has remained in unbroken succession to the present hour. The manor of Elsinges, which had passed to Sir Thomas Lovel, as part of his wife’s portion, was bequeathed by him to the Earl of Rutland.
This Sir Robert Manners, who, as we have said, acquired Belvoir through his marriage with one of the co-heiresses of the last Lord de Ros, was descended from a long line of Manners’ of Northumberland. The earliest of these of whom there is direct evidence was Sir Robert Manners, lord of the manor of Ethale, in Northumberland, from whom descended another Sir Robert, who married Philippa, daughter of Sir Bartholomew de Mont Bouchier, by whom he had issue a son, also named Robert, who married Hawise, daughter of Robert, Baron de Muschamp, in the reign of Henry I. Their great-grandson, another Sir Robert Manners, married Agnes, daughter of Sir David Coupland. Their son, Sir Robert, had issue by his wife, Joan de Heton, four sons, three of whom dying without issue, the second son, William Manners, inherited the estates. He married Ellen, or Janetta, daughter of David Bagster, of Derby, by whom he had a son, Sir Robert Manners.