Part 32

The present church, completed in 1870, is a remarkably fine and elegant structure, with a lofty tower and broach spire at its west end; of it we give an engraving, as seen from the upper part of the village, from a photograph by Mr. E. F. Bampton, of Edensor. It consists of a nave with side aisles, a chancel, and a monumental chapel opening from the south side of the chancel. The font, which is of marble, and extremely chaste and beautiful, is at the west end, and the pulpit, which also is of marble, is placed against the chancel-arch. In the chancel are very elegant _sedilia_, and the floor is laid with encaustic tiles. One of the most historically interesting remains in this church is a brass plate in the chancel to the memory of John Beton, one of the household and confidential servants of Mary Queen of Scots, who died at Chatsworth while his royal mistress was a captive there, in 1570. At the head of the plate are the arms of Beton (who was of the same family as Cardinal David Beton, who took so prominent a part in the affairs of Scotland in the reign of James V. and of Mary, and of James Beton, Archbishop of St. Andrew’s), quarterly first and fourth a fesse between three mascles; second and third, on a chevron an otter’s head, erased; with the crest a talbot’s head. At the bottom is a figure of Beton, in plate armour, lying dead upon a pallet, his hands by his side and his head resting on a pillow. Of this historically interesting brass we give a careful engraving on the opposite page. For this, with some other illustrations, we are indebted to “The Reliquary, Archæological Journal.”

Another brass plate, near the chancel-arch, bears the following inscription:—

“Here lies ye Body of Mr. Iohn Philips, sometime Houskeeper at Chatsworth, who departed this life on ye 28th of May, 1735, in ye 73rd year of his age, and 60th of his Service in ye most Noble Family of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire. Pray let my Bones together lie Until that sad and joyfull Day, When from above a Voice shall say, Rise, all ye Dead, lift up your Eyes, Your great Creator bids you rise; Then do I hope with all ye Just To shake off my polluted Dust, And in new Robes of Glory Drest To have access amongst ye Bless’d. Which God of his infinite Mercy Grant, For the sake & through ye Merits of my Redeemer, Jesus Christ ye Righteous.

Amen.”

In the chapel alluded to is a large and remarkably fine monument, entirely filling up its west side, and of somewhat remarkable character. On either side is a massive pedestal, supporting a life-size statue, and pilasters which rise behind them support a pediment for the sculptured arms, crest, and supporters of the Earl of Devonshire.

In the centre are two inscription-tablets, surmounted by a figure of Fame blowing a trumpet, and on either side of these is a semicircular arch, supported upon black marble columns, with foliated capitals.

In one of these arched niches is sculptured the suit of armour, with helmet, gauntlets, &c.—hung in the niche in natural form, but without the body—of Henry Cavendish, of Tutbury, eldest son of Sir William Cavendish, of Chatsworth, by his wife, who afterwards became the celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury; in the other, in same manner, are sculptured the earl’s empty coronet, robes of state, and sword, the body being gone, of the first Earl of Devonshire, who was the second son of the same Sir William Cavendish and the Countess of Shrewsbury. In front stands an altar-tomb, on which rest the effigies of these two brothers; that of the eldest (Henry Cavendish) represented as a skeleton, and the other (William Cavendish, first Earl of Devonshire) wrapped in a winding sheet, the heads being placed at opposite ends. Over these effigies is a slab of marble, supported upon eight marble pillars.

In the churchyard are many interesting inscriptions, which the visitor may well while away an hour or two in examining. Here, in a grassy enclosure at the top of the churchyard, too, lies the “good duke,” under a plain and simple coped tomb, with a foliated cross, and this simple inscription on its south side:—

“William Spencer Cavendish, Sixth Duke of Devonshire.

Born May 21, 1790. Died January 18, 1858.”

Near this, on a coped tomb, with a plain cross standing at the head, is the following inscription to the mother of the present Duke of Devonshire:—

“In the Faith and Peace of Christ, Here Resteth all that was Mortal of Louisa Cavendish, Daughter of Cornelius, First Lord Lismore, widow of William Cavendish, Eldest Son of George Henry Augustus, First Earl of Burlington, and Mother of William, Seventh Duke of Devonshire. Born August 5th, 1779. Died April 17th, 1863.

“‘As in Adam all die, even so in Christ shall all be made alive.’—1 Cor. xv. 22.”

And another is thus inscribed:—

“Henry George Cavendish. Born May 24, 1836. Died November 9, 1865.”

In the churchyard is the heavy tomb of Sir Joseph Paxton, sometime head gardener at Chatsworth; it bears the following inscriptions:—

“In memory of Sir Joseph Paxton, born at Milton Bryant, Bedfordshire, August IIIrd, MDCCCIII., died at Rockhills, Sydenham, June VIIIth, MDCCCLXV., aged LXI. years.

“In memory of Laura, the lamented daughter of Sir Joseph and Lady Paxton, who departed this life, January VIIIth, MDCCCLV., aged XVI. years. ‘Her sun is gone down while it was yet day.’—Jer. xv. 9.

“In Memory of William, Son of Sir Joseph and Lady Paxton, who departed this life Dec. XVIth, MDCCCXXXV., aged VII. years. ‘He shall gather the lambs with his arm, and carry them in his bosom.’—Isaiah xl. 2.”

Among the other inscriptions, the following are particularly worth noticing:—

“Of Stature Great, Of Mind most Just, Here lies Will Grumbold In the Dust. Who died 25 May, 1690.”

“Here lieth ye body of James Brousard, who departed this life April the 10th, 1762, aged 76 yrs.

Also Sarah, ye wife of James Brousard, who departed this life February ye 10th, 1765, aged 77 yrs.

Ful forty years as Gardener to ye D of Devenshire, to propigate ye earth with plants it was is ful desire; but then thy bones, alas, brave man, earth did no rest afoard, but now wee hope ye are at rest with Jesus Christ our lord.”

“Here lieth the Body of William Dunthin, who departed this life September the 12th, 1787, aged 21 years.

“I was like grass, cut down in haste, for fear too long should grow. I hope made fit in heaven to sit, so why should I not go?”

Another, to William Mather, 1818, says:—

“When he that day with th’ Waggon went, He little thought his Glass was spent; But had he kept his Plough in Hand, He might have longer till’d the Land.”

The CHATSWORTH HOTEL, at Edensor—the only one in the place—is situate close outside the park gates, with an open space of ground in front, and surrounded by the most magnificent of trees and the most beautiful of scenery. It is fitted with every appliance for comfort; has an excellent _cuisine_; is liberally and well conducted; has every possible convenience of stabling and coach-houses; and is, altogether, one of the most desirable and comfortable of hotels.

From this house, which is an excellent centre for tourists, for enjoying the neighbourhood, and who have the magnificent park to stroll about in at all hours, delightful excursions may be made to places in the neighbourhood. Chatsworth is at hand; Haddon Hall is only some three miles away for a walk, or six for a delightful drive, round by way of Bakewell; Monsall Dale, Cressbrook Dale, Middleton Dale, and a host of other “dales” are all within a short distance; and, indeed, a radius of ten miles from the hotel takes in almost every well-known beautiful or romantic spot of the district; while Buxton, with its many attractions, and Dove-Dale, with all its beauties, are only a little beyond this distance. It is, indeed, a district to revel in, and the tourist who “pitches his tent” at the Chatsworth Hotel will be conveniently placed for access to all.

We have spoken of Edensor, which closely adjoins one of the entrances to Chatsworth Park. Near the other lodges are the picturesque villages of Baslow and Beeley, to which we must pay passing attention.

BASLOW is a large and somewhat picturesque village; it lies on the high road from Bakewell to Chesterfield, Sheffield, &c., and the river Derwent runs through one part of it. The churchyard is skirted by the river, and near it is a fine old bridge spanning the stream. The church is a singular, but very picturesque old building, with a low tower and broad spire at its north-west corner, and it possesses many features worthy of careful examination. At Baslow are some very good inns, the principal of which are the “Peacock” and the “Wheatsheaf.”

BEELEY, which the visitor will pass through on his way to Chatsworth from the Rowsley Station, is a pretty little village, with a quaint-looking old church, an elegant Gothic parsonage-house, and many very pretty residences. Beeley Bridge, with the public lodge near it, we have shown in one of our engravings, from a photograph by Green. Of other places in the neighbourhood, some of which we have already touched upon in our account of Haddon Hall, space will not permit us to describe.

We take leave of “princely Chatsworth.” It is a place worthy of all that can be said in its praise; and to its noble owner—one of the kindliest, most enlightened, and liberal men of the age—we tender, not only our own, but public thanks for the generous manner in which he throws its beauties and its treasures open to the people.

INDEX.

Agard, Family of, 324.

Alnwick Castle, 78 to 115; History of, 82 to 96, 101 to 110; Situation, 81; Family of Percy, 84 to 88, 96 to 100; Description, 89; Brislee Tower, 113; Abbey, 110; Moor, 82; Hulne Abbey, 112.

Arcadia, Sidney’s, 178 to 180.

Ault Hucknall, 119, 146 to 152; Church, 146, 147; Monuments, 147, 148; Hobbes’ Tomb, 119, 148.

Arundel, Earls of, 154 to 171.

Arundel Castle, 153 to 171; History of, 153 to 157; Situation, 162; Interior, 163 to 166; Dungeons, 166; Horned Owls, 166; Keep, 167; Bevis’s Tower, 168; Park, 168.

Arundel, Church of St. Martin, 168, 169; Holy Trinity, 169, 170; Maison Dieu, 170; Monuments, 170, 171.

Alton Towers, 1 to 36; Situation, 10, 25; History of, 9, 10; Gardens, 27 to 30; Description of Interior, 12 to 25; Park and Grounds, 26, 30; Choragic Temple, 27; Route to, 25; Conservatories, 28, 29; Stonehenge, 31; Flag Tower, 32; Ina’s Rock, 32; Demon’s Dale, 36.

Alton Castle and Manor, 3 to 9, 32 to 36; Hospital of St. John, 9, 25, 32 to 36; Monuments in the Hospital of St. John, 35, 36; Church, 9, 36.

All Fools’ Day, 34.

Albini, Family of, 154, 155.

Armada, 56.

Arms, Earl of Shrewsbury, 9 to 14, 16, 17; at Alton Towers, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16 to 18, 23, 24; Earl of Darnley, 44; Duke of Devonshire, 126, 340; Earl Mount Edgcumbe, 70; at Hardwick Hall, 128 to 152; Duke of Norfolk, 161; Lord de L’Isle and Dudley, 184; Earl of Warwick, 204; Bear and Ragged Staff, 201; Dukes of Rutland, 278; at Haddon, 221 to 293; Earls of Essex, 316; Hardwick, 137.

Ashbourne, 25.

Avenell, Family of, 227, 272.

Barlow, 6.

Baslow, 396.

Beeley, 396.

Beauchamp, Family of, 197 to 201, 215 to 219; Chapel, 215 to 217; Monuments, 215 to 218.

Bedford, Duke of, 174.

Beton, John, Brass to, 391.

Bear and Rugged Staff, 201.

Bess of Hardwick, 6, 117, 128, 130, 137 to 143, 325, 334.

Bakewell, 282 to 292; Church, 282 to 292; Sepulchral Arms, 284; Vernon Chapel, 284 to 288; Dorothy Vernon’s Tomb, 286, 287; Vernon Monuments, 284 to 288; Wensley Monument, 288; Saxon Cross, 290; Curious Epitaphs, 290 to 292.

Bligh, Family of, 42 to 44.

Bohun, Family of, 172, 173, 195.

Bolton Abbey, 119.

Bolsover Castle, 119.

Border Warfare, 79.

Broke Family, 40 to 44, 51, 121.

Brooke, Lords, 204, 205.

Burleigh, Family of, 297, 298.

Buckingham, Duke of, 175.

Buxton, 222, 223, 224; Baths, 222.

Capel, Family of, 312 to 316.

Cavendish, Family of, 6, 119 to 126, 138 to 143, 149 to 152, 324 to 396; Life of Wolsey, 120, 121, 334; Monuments, 391 to 393; Overhall, 120.

Cecil, Family of, 41, 297 to 301.

Cassiobury, 308 to 321; History of, 308 to 311, 317; Situation, 308; Park and Grounds, 316, 317, 319; Interior, 318, 319; Monuments, 320.

Chatsworth, 6, 7, 117, 119, 138, 140, 322 to 396; History of, 323; Situation, 322, 340, 341; Mary Queen of Scots at, 325 to 328; Arabella Stuart born at, 328, 329; Hobbes of Malmesbury, 329, 330; Park, 340, 341; Interior, 342 to 372; Sketch Gallery, 345; Grinling Gibbon’s Masterpiece, 347; Sculpture, 360 to 362; Chapel, 364 to 369; Carvings, 366 to 369; Watson the Carver, 368, 369; Hood’s Titles, 370; Roman Antiquities, 371; Gardens and Grounds, 373 to 383, 384; French Gardens, 374; Waterworks, 374 to 376, 377, 381; Cascade, 375; Willow-tree, 377; Great Conservatory, 379, 380; Emperor Fountain, 381; Royal Trees, 382, 383; Hunting Tower, 384, 385; Queen Mary’s Bower, 385; Kitchen Gardens, 385 to 387; Victoria Regia House, 385; Hotel, Edensor, 395.

Chesterfield, 119.

Clifton, Lords, 41 to 44.

Cobham, Family of, 39 to 44, 49 to 51, 121, 174.

Cobham Hall, 37 to 53; Situation, 38; Park and Grounds, 45; Interior, 46, 47; “Three Sisters,” 47; Village, 52; Church, 48 to 51; Brasses in the Church, 49 to 51; Monuments in the Church, 49 to 51; College, 51.

Compton Place, 119.

Croxden Abbey, 3, 36.

Cothele, 63, 70 to 77; Situation, 70, 71; Interior, &c., 71 to 74; Grounds, 74; Family of Edgcumbe, 63 to 74.

Cotton, Charles, Wonders of the Peak, 330, 331.

Darnley, Earls of, 41 to 44.

De L’Isle and Dudley, Lord, 184; Arms of, 184, 185.

Demon’s Dale, 36.

De Cobham, Family of, 38 to 44.

De Verdon, Family of, 3 to 6, 9.

De Vesci Family, 82 to 84.

Devonport, 56.

Derby, 224.

Derbyshire Scenery, 116 to 119, 222 to 227.

Devonshire, Dukes of, 119 to 126, 148 to 152, 322 to 396; Arms of, 126, 340.

Devonshire Scenery, 54 to 58.

Dove-Dale, 25.

Doveridge, 25.

Duffield, 224; Castle, 227.

Edensor, 387 to 396; Church, 388 to 394; Brass of John Beton, 390, 391; Cavendish Monument, 391 to 393; Tomb of Duke of Devonshire, 393; Curious Epitaphs, 394; Hotel, 395.

Eddystone Lighthouse, 56, 57.

Edgcumbe, Family of, 63 to 70; Story of Sir Richard, 64; Tombs, 66.

Essex, Earls of, 314 to 316; Arms of, 316.

Exeter, 55.

Ferrars, 3, 4.

Fitzalan, Family of, 156 to 158, 170, 171; Monuments, 170, 171.

Furnival, 3 to 5.

Gernon Family, 120.

Gibbons, Grinling, 347, 366 to 369.

Greville, Family of, 204, 205.

Guy, Earl of Warwick, 211 to 215.

Guy’s Cliff, 198.

Guy’s Tower, 210.

Guy’s Cave, 218.

Hardwick, Family of, 6, 7, 117, 128, 130, 137 to 143, 325, 334.

Hardwick Hall, 6, 7, 116 to 152; Approaches to, 117; Situation, 127; Exterior, 127; Interior, 128 to 136; Curious Table, 132; Mary Queen of Scots’ Room, 133, 134; Old Hall, 143; “Giant’s Chamber,” 144; Accounts of Building, 145, 146.

Hartington, Marquess of, 126, 339.

Hault Hucknall, 119, 146 to 152.

Haddon Hall, 71, 117, 221 to 293; Situation, 221 to 226, 235, 236; History of, 227 to 242; Court-yards, &c., 236; Arrangement, 236 to 242; Chapel, 243 to 249; Interior, 242 to 269; Roman Altar, 250; Grounds, 269 to 272; Terrace, 270; Bowling Green, 271; Gold Ring, 280; Washing Tally, 281.

Hatfield House, 294 to 307; Situation, 294,295; History, 294 to 297, 301; Exterior, 301 to 303; Interior, 303 to 306; Park and Grounds, 306, 307.

“Hobbes of Malmesbury,” 119, 148 to 152, 329, 330; Memoir of, 149 to 152; Tomb, 148; De Mirabilibus Pecci, 329, 330.

Howard, Family of, 158 to 161.

Hulne Abbey, 112, 113.

Ina’s Rock, 32.

Kedleston Hall, 117.

King of the Peak, 232 to 235, 285.

Leche, Family of, 323, 324.

Leicester, Earl of, 181.

Lisle, Viscount, 181.

Longshawe, 282.

Manners, Family of, 129, 233, 234, 272 to 278; Monument, 282.

Mary Queen of Scots, 7, 116, 128, 140 to 143, 222, 325; Statue of, 128; at Chatsworth,325 to 329; Household of, 327,328; Bower, 385; Monument to John Beton, 391.

Matlock, 117, 224, 292.

Mount Edgcumbe, Earls of, 63 to 70; Arms, 70.

Mount Edgcumbe, 54 to 77; Interior, 62, 63; Route to, 55; Situation, 58, 59; Park and Grounds, 58 to 62; Lady Emma’s Cottage, 60.

Morley, Earl of, 76.

Morrison, Family of, 311, 312; Monuments, 320, 321.

Nevile, Family of, 3, 201 to 203.

Newburgh, Family of, 195.

Norfolk, Dukes of, 157 to 162; Arms of, 161; Monuments, 170, 171.

Northumberland, Dukes of, 97 to 101; Arms of, 101.

Over Haddon, 227.

Paxton, Sir Joseph, 385 to 387.

Peacock at Rowsley, 225.

Pembroke, Countess of, 180.

Percy, Family of, 84 to 88, 96 to 101.

Penshurst, 172 to 191; History of, 173 to 178; The Sidneys, 176 to 185; Situation, 185; Interior, 186 to 190; Sacharissa’s Walk, 185; Sidney’s Oak, 185; Church, 190, 191; Monuments, 191.

Peveril, Family of, 227.

Plymouth, 55; Breakwater, 56, 57; Eddystone Lighthouse, 56, 57, 58; Hoe, 56; The Tamar, 70; Mount Edgcumbe, 54 to 57; Cothele, 70 to 77; Trips round, 76, 77.

Poultney, Family of, 174.

Pugin, 10, 23, 32; Hoax upon, 33.

Rich, Lords, 203; Family of, 203.

Roman Altar, 250.

Rowsley, 225, 226, 282; Church, 282; Monument of Lady John Manners, 282.

Rutland, Duke of, 139, 233, 272 to 278; Arms of, 278.

Sacharissa, 183.

Saltram, 76.

Salisbury, Marquess of, 300, 301; Arms of, 301.

Sheffield Manor, 140, 325.

Shrewsbury, Earls of, 3 to 9, 14, 15, 35, 36, 138 to 143, 326 to 329; Arms of, 9, 11 to 13; Countess of, 6, 117, 128, 130, 137 to 143, 325, 334.

Sidney, Family of, 172 to 191; Sir Philip, 173, 178 to 181.

Sidney’s Oak, 185.

St. Loe Family, 6.

Smithson, Family of, 97 to 101.

Stanley, Family of, 233.

Stanton Woodhouse, 282.

Stuart, Lady Arabella, 328, 329.

Sudbury, 25.

Talbot, Family of, 3 to 9, 16, 17, 18, 35, 36; Monuments, 14, 35, 36.

Tutbury, 25, 140, 227.

Uttoxeter, 25, 26.

Verdon Family, 3 to 6, 9.

Vernon, Lords, 25, 230 to 232; Family of, 228 to 234; Sir George, 232, 233, 288; Dorothy, 233, 234, 261, 262, 275, 285, 286, 289; Monuments, 284 to 288.

Waller the Poet, 183.

Warwick, Earls of, 195 to 204; The King Maker, 201; Tournament, 197.

Warwick Castle, 192 to 220; Grounds, 210 to 212; History, 192 to 194; Situation, 206; Interior, 207 to 210; Dungeons, 210; Guy’s Tower, 210; Warder’s Horn, 207; Burning of, 205; Cæsar’s Tower, 210; Guy Relics, 212; Legend of Guy, 211 to 215; Guy’s Cave, 218; Beauchamp Chapel, 215 to 217; St. Mary’s Church, 215 to 218; Monuments, 215; East Gate, 219; Herald, 198; Vase, 211.

Wingfield Manor, 117, 140.

Watford Church, 320; Monuments, 320, 321.

Watson, Samuel, the Carver, 368, 369.

Washing-Tally, 281.

END OF FIRST SERIES.

THE STATELY HOMES OF ENGLAND

_SECOND SERIES_

INTRODUCTION.

THE noble mansions which have been chosen to form the second series of our “Stately Homes of England” will, it gives us pleasure to know, be found to fully bear out what was said in the Introduction to the first volume, that England is emphatically a Kingdom of Homes, and that these and their associations, and the love which is felt for them, are its main source of happiness and true greatness. For assuredly those we have now selected, like those already illustrated, are noble in their plans, their proportions, and their architecture; stately and magnificent in their appointments and internal arrangements; stirring in the historical incidents with which they have been connected; interesting from the grand old families by whom they have been, and are still, inhabited; and more than passingly interesting from their antiquarian character, their architectural features, their romantic beauties, their picturesque surroundings, and the invaluable treasures of Art enshrined within their walls. No matter in what Shire they are situated—and we have selected them alike from east and west, from north and south, as well as from the “lovely midlands”—these “Homes” serve but as examples of innumerable others that, dotted over the surface of the country, form the glory of England, and, through their noble owners, add to the stability, the greatness, and the proud supremacy of

“Our own, our native land.”

England has, indeed, reason to be proud of her Homes, and it has been a pleasant and a loving task to describe and to illustrate some of them in these volumes; to give records of the historical incidents with which they have been associated; and to add the ample genealogical notices of the families to whom they belong.

Like those in the first volume, these notices were prepared for, and originally appeared in, the _Art Journal_, but they have been rearranged, here and there rewritten, and in every case materially added to. We shall hope to follow up the present volume—the second of the series—with two or three more of a similar character, in which other houses, equally beautiful, equally interesting, and equally “stately” with those we have described, will form the theme of our pen and the subject of our pencil.

CONTENTS OF SECOND SERIES.

PAGE

I.—BELVOIR CASTLE, LEICESTERSHIRE 1001

II.—TRENTHAM, STAFFORDSHIRE 1032

III.—KNOLE, KENT 1056

IV.—CASTLE HOWARD, YORKSHIRE 1074

V.—KEDLESTON HALL, DERBYSHIRE 1093

VI.—AUDLEY END, ESSEX 1112