Part 3

There is one very difficult ingredient—wine jelly! The jelly is easy enough, but where in Jell do you get the wine?

If you don’t have wine jelly—it’s all off—no use beginning. If you can get the wine then you put some cut-up oranges in wine jelly with an inch layer of beaten whites of eggs on top and lightly brown this. A loose custard is poured on each helping. It sounds rather punk and ladieshomejournalish but is a perfectly good dessert.

XIX

_Roy L. McCardell_

“EGGS MUSHROOMETTE”

This is the queen of breakfast dishes and should be served, of course, with broiled ham, the king of breakfast dishes, hot buttered toast, and several cups of fresh-made, fragrant and just-strong-enough-to-bring-out-full-flavor, percolated coffee!

_Recipe_

Peel and slice a half pound of fresh mushrooms and cook in butter in old-fashioned frying pan till nearly done. The pan is now good and hot. Moderate the heat and put in three fresh eggs and fry them very slowly, constantly basting top of eggs with the hot butter the mushrooms have been cooking in. Cook well, slowly and thoroughly till all the mushrooms that attach are nestling in the white of the eggs like plums in a pudding. Serve, when thoroughly cooked, with the broiled ham, fresh coffee, and hot buttered toast.

This dish, as here described, is for one person only—as it is too good to be shared with anybody else.

P. S.—Eggs should never be fried so quickly that the whites are cooked to isinglass. Cook them slowly, surely, thoroughly and baste with hot mushroom butter as directed, and you will have Eggs Mushroomette and have eaten a poem!

XX

_Judge Ben B. Lindsey_

BRAN MUFFINS

Judge Lindsey’s favorite recipe is one for Bran Muffins, as follows:

1 pint milk 1 egg ½ pound wheat flour ¾ pound bran flour 2 tablespoonsful molasses 2 ounces pecan meats (½s or ¼s) 2 ounces sugar 2 ounces butter ¼ ounce salt 2 ounces Sultana raisins 1 ounce baking powder

Sufficient for 18 muffins.

Bake 30 minutes in well-heated oven.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—The addition of Pecan meats with the raisins produces a muffin that—well, the line might better have ended thus: _produces a muffin_!

XXI

_Otis Skinner_

ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIO

Force a small opening in the head of the artichoke by giving it a blow upon the table. Then, into the center pour a dessertspoonful of olive oil in which a little salt and pepper have been mixed. To this add a quarter of a clove of garlic.

Place the artichokes in such position that they may not be overturned. Surround them with cold water, and allow them to boil, covered and undisturbed, for half an hour.

This is an Italian method, and by following it one may understand why an artichoke need not taste as flat as boiled hay.

XXII

_Dan Beard_

A BURGOO

Clean and dress the meat of a soft-shelled turtle, a painted turtle, a poker-dot turtle, or almost any other kind of turtle. Clean and dress a rabbit, a ruffled grouse, moose meat, elk meat, deer meat, sheep meat, in fact any sort of game. Cut your meat into pieces about the size of inch cubes. Save the bones, especially the marrow bones, to put in with the meat. Add some salt pork cut into cubes, if you have it.

If you have been thoughtful enough to supply your outfit with some ill-smelling, but palatable dry vegetables, they will add flavor to your burgoo, put all the material in a kettle, and fill the kettle half full of water. If you have beans and potatoes do not put them in with the meat because they will go to the bottom and scorch. While the stuff you have already put in the kettle is boiling, or simmering, peel your onions and quarter them, scrape your carrots and slice them, peel your potatoes, cut them up into pieces—about inch cubes. After your caldron has commenced to boil dump in the fresh vegetables, they will cool off the water and kill the boil. Do not let it come to a boil again, but put it over a slow fire and allow it to simmer. There should always be enough water to cover the vegetables. A can of tomatoes will add greatly to the flavor. Use no sweet vegetables like beets or sweet potatoes. Put the salt and pepper in just before you take it off the fire. When the burgoo is done, strain it into tin cups. The liquid out of an olive bottle adds greatly to the flavor if you pour it in while the stew is cooking. If you have such luxuries in camp as olives and lemons, a slice of lemon with an olive in each cup over which the liquid is poured makes a dish too good for any old king that ever lived.

The excellence of a burgoo depends upon two things, the materials you have of which to make it and the care you take in cooking it. No two burgoos are alike, and every one I ever tasted was mighty good. Civilized material such as can be purchased at the butcher shop and the vegetable store makes a good soup, but the “goo” isn’t there. Consequently you cannot call it a burgoo.

XXIII

_De Wolf Hopper_

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE, with the assistance of a rich and kindly disposed cow, meaning lacteal fluid on same—that is my chief debauch!

_Recipe_ (_for two people_)

Sift a level teaspoonful of baking powder and a scant half teaspoonful of salt through a cupful of flour. See that the mixture is thorough. Take lard or butter (butter is best) and work it well into the flour until it crumbles under the fingers. Use plenty of finger work. Now add a very small quantity of milk and work into a dough that is easily rolled and flattened on a floured board. Roll out and cut in round cakes to fit cake tins. Have cakes about a half inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven until light golden in color. In serving have lots of berries—half of them—crushed. Split the shortcakes and butter them, if desired. Above all use thick, rich cream in generous doses. The dish is really best when the cakes are just from the oven—instead of cold.

The same goes for strawberry shortcake and makes the only _real genuine old-fashioned shortcake_.

XXIV

_Chick Evans_

TOMATO SOUP

I have a fondness for tomato soup and steak without grizzles. Since almost any one can broil a steak I’ll pass that up and tell you how to play cream of tomato right around the kitchen course in par.

You can take ripe tomatoes, cut them up, stew them and put them through a strainer. You can add a bit of soup stock and seasoning and all that, but the easy way is to take some of Mr. Campbell’s tomato soup and add milk instead of water—only use more soup, per person, than the can label calls for.

Don’t boil it—but when the soup is good and hot give it a bit of informal seasoning and then stir in _a lot_ of stiff whipped cream. Keep back enough of the whipped cream to put a big spoonful of it in the center of each plate.

Use the can opener at the first tee and with luck you’ll be on the dinner table in an easy three. Play out of the soup plate with a good sized spoon for a par four—and there you are!

You’ll be able to whip the cream without detailed directions. The important thing is choosing the right egg beater or cream whipper or whatever you use. The next important thing in whipping cream is stance. You’ll gradually acquire that, after you’ve spattered the front of your vest a time or two, and hooked a few long ones to the wall paper. I believe that there are some safety devices for whipping cream, but they take all the sport and excitement out of the thing.

XXV

_Joshua A. Hatfield_

EGGPLANT SAUTÉ À L’ALEXANDER

_For About 12 People_

Take two large eggplants, have them peeled and cut into large flakes of about 1¼ inches in size, season with pepper and salt, pass through flour and fry in hot fat pan to brown color; chop finely and sauté to yellow color, six French shallots and two beans of garlic, and add to the eggplant. Keep stirring on moderate fire for about three minutes, serve in vegetable dish and spray with chopped parsley.

POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER

Take six nice boiled potatoes, let them drain and pass through sieve, put in stewing pan on the fire, add four yolks of eggs, one spoonful of fresh butter, one spoonful of puff paste; one green pepper, one sweet pepper, two slices of boiled ham and parsley all finely chopped, and pepper and salt to taste.

Mix while on the fire for about five minutes, then let it cool down.

Of this dough roll sticks of ½ inch in diameter by 1½ inches long, pass through flour, beaten egg, and white bread crumbs, fry in fat pan and serve on napkin with fried parsley.

COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER

(_Served at India House with Cold Salmon_)

_For 12 People_

Incorporate into good mayonnaise, chopped chives, parsley, chervil, two tablespoonsful of French mustard and dash of Worcestershire sauce, paprika, pepper and salt; stir well.

SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN À L’ALEXANDER

Take the breast of a four-pound roasting chicken (stuff very lightly with a filling made of chicken, cream and fresh mushrooms mixed with white of egg) and have it poached in butter and chicken broth. After being done remove the suprême and have the sauce reduced to one-quarter of its volume, then incorporate first one tablespoonful of sweet butter and add six finely chopped French shallots, one-half glass of white wine, two spoonsful of brown sauce (demi-glacé), season well with pepper and salt, let it cook for about three minutes, and strain through fine sieve.

Dish suprême on a fried canape cut to shape and sauce it.

_Garniture_

Fried eggplant cut in Julienne shape Green peppers sauté in butter Fresh tomatoes sauté

Arrange the vegetables around the suprême on platter by keeping them each separately and serve sauce apart.

FONDU AU FROMAGE À L’ALEXANDER

Melt two tablespoonsful of butter and work with three spoonsful of flour into light brown color; add one pint of milk, let it boil for five minutes, constantly stirring; incorporate ½ pound of grated Swiss cheese or domestic Roquefort, a little salt and paprika, and bind with six yolks of eggs; let cool down.

This preparation cut and roll into sticks of ¾ inches diameter by 1½ inches long, pass through flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry crisp in hot fat pan.

Serve in napkin with fried parsley.

POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE À L’ALEXANDER

Work into a dough ½ pound of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, two whole eggs and a little salt; cut this pie-crust dough into tartlette forms, say 3 inches in diameter, place in molds and bake in moderate oven.

Melt two tablespoonsful of fresh butter, add 12 finely chopped shallots, ¼ pound of finely chopped fresh mushrooms, pepper, salt, and let it simmer, by constantly stirring, until it is thoroughly cooked, and finish with chopped parsley; mix well into this two tablespoonsful of demi-glacé. Cover the bottom of tartlettes with a layer of this preparation, place a freshly poached egg on top, cover with thick cream sauce, spray with grated Parmesan cheese, a dash of melted butter, and bake in moderate oven for about five minutes.

Dish up on napkin with crisp fried parsley.

ROMAINE SALAD À L’ALEXANDER

Decorate half a head of Romaine with sliced grapefruit, sliced orange and white grapes split and seeded, or large black cherries.

Prepare dressing as follows: Incorporate into French dressing finely chopped chives, French mustard and teaspoonful of red currant jelly; mix well and use as dressing for above salad.

ROGNONS DE VEAU À L’ALEXANDER

Take six fresh veal kidneys, remove skin and fat, and cut to very small cubes, adding ½ pound of very fine chopped fresh mushrooms, and put aside.

Melt two tablespoonsful of butter with twelve finely chopped shallots and brown to a nice golden color. Add the kidneys and mushrooms and let it simmer for about eight minutes, taking good care not to let it cook too much, preventing the kidneys from getting hard; incorporate into this appareil one pint of demi-glacé, one cup of bread crumbs (for thickening) chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and let it cool down.

Cut round canapes of bread 3 inches in diameter, and ½ inch thick, and fry in butter to crusts, and drain; then cover the crusts with this preparation to a half ball shape, pass through beaten egg, spray with a mixture of bread crumbs and grated parmesan cheese and dash of melted butter on top and bake in moderate oven for about ten minutes.

Dish up on napkin with fried parsley, and serve with demi-glacé sauce separate.

STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER

Work into a dough ½ pound of flour, ¼ pound sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 whole eggs, and a little salt.

Cut the dough to oval or round tartlet forms, have them baked in moderate oven, and after they are cooled down fill out the bottom of the tartlets with custard (Crème Patissière). Cover the cream entirely with a layer of selected fresh whole strawberries, and apply, with a decorating brush, lightly diluted red currant jelly; spray the top with finely chopped pistachio nuts.

BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER

Open six large oysters, keep in deep half shell, place in roasting pan and cover with Sauce Alexander as follows:

{ two tablespoonsful of Chili sauce { one tablespoonful of horseradish sauce Mix: { one tablespoonful of French mustard { one dash of Worcestershire Sauce { finely chopped chives, salt and pepper

Take good care the oysters are entirely covered by the sauce, then spray with bread crumbs, and have them baked for about eight minutes.

ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN À L’ALEXANDER

Select a choice five-pound fowl, have it boiled, cut into flakes and put aside.

Brown in saucepan ¼ pound of butter and two tablespoonsful of flour to a nice yellow color, add to this one quart of chicken broth and let it boil for a few minutes, keeping on stirring it; beat into this sauce six yolks of eggs and the juice of two lemons, working it all the time, but taking good care not to let it boil any more; pass it through a fine sieve and keep it hot in Bain-Marie.

Cut into flakes and sauté in butter ½ pound of fresh mushrooms, then take ¼ pound flaked boiled Virginia ham, one bunch of finely chopped Tarragon and mix this with the chicken flakes in the thoroughly heated sauce; season with salt, pepper and paprika to taste and serve in chafing dish; place on freshly made toast or hot buckwheat cakes.

XXVI

_Stewart Edward White_

MULLIGAN

This is a camp dish to be cooked over an open fire. I guarantee nothing on a stove. I know nothing of stoves, and have a dark suspicion of them. To make it: Place in a kettle half full of cold water either (a) fish cut in chunks, (b) a couple of dozen clams, or (c) a half dozen chunks of venison about the size of a tennis ball, depending on whether you want a Fish Mulligan, a Clam Mulligan, or a Game Mulligan. Also depending on what you have. Also a half dozen peeled potatoes and three large onions. Salt and pepper, bring slowly to a boil. Add a handful of cubes of salt pork or bacon. Simmer slowly until the potatoes disintegrate. If you have the remains of a can of corn or a little residue of cold rice or anything of like nature, drop them in. Next put in all the stale bread or hard tack the traffic will bear. Dissolve a tablespoonful of flour in a little warm water, and stir that in for thickening. Cook slowly until you can’t stand it any longer, and fly to it.

XXVII

_Oliver Herford_

FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS

This sounds like a joke but it is a perfectly serious dish—I made its acquaintance at the table of a little inn in South Baden, on the shores of Lake Constance.

First you must wait until the elderberry bushes are in full bloom. Then you gather a good sized bunch of them—and cut off each blossom just below the point where the little stems join the main stalk.

These you dip into a light egg batter such as is used to make apple fritters (lighter, perhaps), taking care to cover both the flower and as much of the little stalks as possible. They should be served like fritters as soon as made.

XXVIII

_Reed Smoot_

PEACH COBBLER

One of my favorite dishes is peach cobbler. I am told that it originated in the south, but its fame has spread far beyond the limits of the Mason and Dixon line. It is made in this way:

Line a baking dish or pan, about three and one-half inches deep, with a rich pastry. _There must be no break in the pastry._ Then fill the dish to the brim with peaches—ripe, luscious ones, that have been pared and broken—not cut—in half. Sugar generously, and leave in about six or eight of the peach pits—they give a certain flavor that only peach pits may impart.

Cover the peaches with an _unbroken_ upper crust of pastry; seal it tightly along the sides, so that none of the juices or aromas may escape. Bake in a slow oven until nearly brown—then sprinkle the top with powdered sugar, that will give a certain professional luster to the dish. After that finish the browning process.

A cobbler containing a quart of peaches should bake for about one hour.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—Senator Smoot is not alone in his partiality toward peach cobbler. Back in the days before Volstead, famous cobblers were produced just as above with the addition of brandy, say a cup to a quart of peaches—but that, of course, was a long time ago.

XXIX

_Ray Long_

SHAD ROE

Dip the roe well in melted butter or bacon fat, place under hot broiler flame, cooking for five minutes on each side. Then place in a greased baking dish, season with salt, tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and paprika. Dot over with a little more butter, or bacon fat, add a small quantity of hot water, cover closely and bake in an oven until tender—about fifteen minutes. This may be garnished with crisp bacon which should be cooked separately.

_Dessert_

Slice fresh pineapple, cover with sugar, and put on ice for several hours. Serve with lemon water ice.

XXX

_Kenneth C. Beaton_

(“K. C. B.”)

LOBSTER

Get a couple of lobsters. Split and cleaned. And put in a pan. And dot each piece. With bits of butter. And put the pan. In a very hot oven. And broil ten minutes. And after that. Lift meat from shell. Onto heated plates. And serve with sauce. Made in a bowl. With a bit of mustard. Stirred in water. And a pinch of salt. And of paprika. Just a dash. And a scant teaspoon. Of Walnut catsup. And a tablespoon. Of Worcestershire sauce. And mix them all. With half a cup. Of melted butter. That’s just been heated. And not boiled. And serve it all. With a mess of potatoes. Baked or boiled. And boy, oh, boy! There is a dish. Fit for the gods! I thank you.

XXXI

_John Harvey Kellogg, M. D._

MACARONI WITH CHEESE

1½ cups macaroni 1 cup Cottage Cheese 2 hard boiled eggs 2 tb. butter 2 cups milk or sufficient to cover the macaroni

Boil the macaroni in salt water until tender. Place a layer of macaroni in the bottom of a baking dish, a layer of cheese (½ C.), sliced hard boiled eggs, layer of macaroni and the cheese—bits of butter are placed between the layers and on the top, sprinkle cracker, bread or PEP crumbs over the top, moisten with cream or bits of butter; sufficient milk is poured over to just cover the macaroni and bake in rather a slow oven for about forty-five minutes.

SAVORY POTATOES

1 pint sliced potatoes ½ small onion 1 tb. butter 1 cup water 1½ teaspoon salt

Place the thin sliced potatoes in the bottom of a baking dish, slice the onion over this and add the remainder of the potatoes; pour hot water over all with butter and salt. Bake in a slow oven two hours.

XXXII

_Clare Briggs_

WAFFLES

There is a simple but effective recipe for one of the kitchen’s most wonderful products.

1¾ cups flour 3 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup milk Yolks of 2 eggs Whites of 2 eggs 1 tablespoon melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients; gradually add milk, then yolks of eggs, well beaten. Next the melted butter and last the whites of eggs, beaten stiff. Cook on a very hot and well-greased waffle iron and serve with maple syrup.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—President Harding favors creamed chipped beef as a dressing for waffles while Mr. Briggs is a staunch supporter of the sweet-tooth school.

For those who like the sweet stuff this variation of plain maple syrup is worth trying:

Put one half pound of strained honey in a double boiler, or a small pan placed in water. _Heat very slowly_, adding a half pint of pure maple syrup with which has been previously mixed two teaspoons of powdered cinnamon and a dash of caraway. Heat and stir until thoroughly mixed—but do not boil. Serve warm.

XXXIII

_Edward W. Bok_

ASPARAGUS

The food I like?

The dishes I really crave?

The things off which I would dine every day of my life?

I never see them. I never have them.

Why?

Because Mrs. Bok says there is not a digestible dish amongst them.

But I often think of them,—wistfully, oh, so wistfully!

Here they are:

Soft-shell crabs, done in hot olive oil; or hard-shell crabs; deviled. Lobster with mayonnaise. Filet Mignon; panned in brown butter. Veal loaf. Roast pork tenderloin. Fried eels. Sausages; never had enough; ditto scrapple! Currants with a hot roll lightly wound through them. Hot fresh doughnuts. French pancakes of a thinness like unto gauze. Strong black coffee. Chocolate meringue glacé.

But as I never had the good fortune to know the above foods at first hand, I cannot well give you the recipes for them.

Perhaps you might like to know my favorite way of serving asparagus in my home, Dutch fashion, as I remember it in my native land of The Netherlands.

The asparagus bunches are placed in a double boiler upright, the tips being above the water, and thus cooked by steam. Passed at table, with the asparagus, is hard-boiled egg, put through a ricer, a small quantity of finely ground nutmeg and a dish of hot, melted butter. It always has to be explained to guests, but once the introduction is over the convert is made!

XXXIV

_Charles Hanson Towne_

CORN PUDDING

There is no dish I like better than a Corn Pudding made just like this:

2 cups of grated corn ½ cup of milk ½ cup of cream 1 tablespoonful of flour ½ tablespoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1 tablespoonful of butter A pinch of baking powder

Cook for a half hour and serve immediately. It is brown on the top, and in a deep dish it is the most succulent course a man could wish for. I want others to share it with me. I wish I could give a party every night with this as the _pièce-de-résistance_!

EDITOR’S NOTE:—In speaking of the origin of this dish Mr. Towne says that it was “first made by my wonderful colored housekeeper, Hattie Jefferson.”

XXXV

_Jerome D. Kern_

TERRAPIN

My favorite dish is Stewed Terrapin and my recipe follows:

Cut the boiled calves’ liver into moderate sized pieces and put into stew pan with sufficient fresh butter to stew it well.

In another pan make a sauce of pre-Prohibition Sherry or Madeira, flavored with the beaten yolk of one egg, powdered nutmeg and mace, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, salt to taste, enlivened with large lump of butter.

If pre-Prohibition Sherry is not available, names and addresses of seventy-one bootleggers can be supplied.

Stir sauce well, and just before it comes to a boil, take it off the fire.

Use three or four hard-boiled hens’ eggs to pinch hit for turtle’s eggs and send to the table piping hot in chafing dish.

IMPORTANT: Serve the sauce separately. The terrapin is frequently ignored by those who prefer the flavor of the sherry. I am one of them.

XXXVI

_Daniel Willard_

COTTAGE PUDDING

One tablespoon butter One cup sugar Two eggs Half cup milk One large teaspoon baking powder One and a half cups flour

Bake in a square tin and serve with strawberry sauce.

STRAWBERRY SAUCE