Part 1

_The Stag Cook Book_

_C. MAC SHERIDAN_

THE STAG COOK BOOK

_WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN_

COLLECTED AND EDITED

_by_

C. MAC SHERIDAN

_With an Introduction by_ ROBERT H. DAVIS

NEW YORK GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY

COPYRIGHT, 1922, BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY

THE STAG COOK BOOK, II

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

_Dedicated To_—

THAT GREAT HOST OF BACHELORS AND BENEDICTS ALIKE

who have at one time or another tried to “cook something”; and who, in the attempt, have weakened under a fire of feminine raillery and sarcasm, only to spoil what, under more favorable circumstances, would have proved a chef-d’œuvre.

_“They may live without houses and live without books,” So the saying has gone through the ages, “But a civilized man cannot live without cooks—” It’s a libel, as proved by these pages! For when left by himself in a small kitchenette, With a saucepan, a spoon and a kettle, A man can make things that you’ll never forget— That will put any cook on her mettle._

_Where camp fires glow through the still of the night, Where grills are electric and shiny, Where kitchens are huge, done in tiling of white, Where stoves are exceedingly tiny, Where people are hungry—no matter the place— A man can produce in a minute A dish to bring smiles to each skeptical face, With art—and real food value—in it!_

_At range and at oven, at (whisper it!) still, A man is undoubtedly master; His cooking is done with an air and a skill, He’s sure as a woman—and faster! He may break the dishes and clutter the floor, And if he is praised—he deserves it— He may flaunt his prowess until he’s a bore.... But, Boy, what he serves—when he serves it!_

INTRODUCTION

By ROBERT H. DAVIS

Cooking is a gift, not an art. Eating is an art, not a gift. In combination a grace is developed. No great culinary triumph was ever perfected by accident.

Charles Lamb’s essay on roast pig was responsible for a tidal wave of burnt pork that swept over England in the nineteenth century. Mr. Lamb led a hungry empire to the belief that only through an act of incendiarism could a suckling porker be converted into a delicacy; whereas, as a matter of fact, the perfection of roast pork, golden-brown and unseared by fire, were possible only in the oven.

Lucullus, the good Roman gourmet, had his meals cooked in a mint. He required that his masterpieces be served on gold and silver and crystal, and spread on a table of lapis lazuli. The sauces compiled for him were worth more than the food upon which they were poured. He was the high priest of extravagance and luxury. A single meal stood him a fortune. He had more regard for the cost than for the cooking. It is said that his death was hastened by dyspepsia.

* * * * *

In the early seventies a French nobleman, living in the neighborhood of Barbizon, was found seated at the table with his face in a plate of soup. Because of the fact that a butcher knife had been inserted via the back between his fourth and fifth rib on the left side, he was quite dead. Clues led nowhere. It became one of the mysteries.

Long afterward an old man tottered into the office of the Prefect and announced that he wished to make a confession.

“Proceed,” said the official.

“’Twas I,” responded the ancient, “who delivered the death stroke to the Duke de la —— thirty-five years ago.”

“What inspired you to make this confession?”

“Pride.”

“I do not comprehend. The details, if you please.”

“By profession I was a chef,” said the self-accused. “The Duke, at a fabulous price, enticed me into his service. His first request was that I make for him a perfect consomme. _Voilà!_ For three days I prepared this perfection. With my own hand I placed before him the soup tureen. With my own hand I ladled it out. He inhaled its divine essence; and then, Your Honor, _he reached for the salt_. _Mon Dieu!_ I destroy him!”

The Prefect embraced the artist and took him out to lunch. Thus art was vindicated and the incident closed. In the chemistry of cooking, “enough is too much.”

* * * * *

The immortals who have contributed recipes to this volume were born with a silver spoon not in their mouths, but in their hands. The cap and apron, not the cap and bells, is the garb in which they perform. Secrets handed down through generations are thrown with a wanton hand on the pages that comprise this volume. Sauces from the south, chowders from New England, barbecued masterpieces from the west, grilled classics from field and stream, ragouts, stews, desserts, dressings are hung within reach of all, like garlic clusters from the rafters of opportunity. Reach up and help yourself.

Be not disturbed by occasional jocund phrases in this symposium. Behind them is probably concealed a savory or a flavor. A long paragraph may conclude with full particulars concerning the architecture of a gastronomic dream. Turn the pages slowly lest you be overwhelmed by the richness of the menu.

* * * * *

The late King Edward, upon bidding the later Carlos of Portugal God-speed back to his native shores, inquired: “By what were you most impressed during your visit to the British Isles?”

“Roast beef,” said Carlos, expanding in ecstasy.

“And what else?” inquired Edward.

“Well,” said Carlos, “the boiled beef wasn’t so damned bad.”

* * * * *

It is one thing to cook food, and another to consume it. This inspired tome is the product of cooks who are not afraid to take their own medicine. The names of many of the dishes catalogued herein lies on the tongues of the mob, but the delicacies themselves do not. This book brings within the reach of all opportunities that up to now have been denied them. Given a first class stove, a few simple ingredients and a copy of this book, hunger can be abolished wherever English is read.

* * * * *

Rossini, the musician, also a chef, after writing the score of _The Barber of Seville_, was informed by the director that a prelude was required immediately. Rossini repaired to his kitchen, cooked himself a perfect dinner, consumed it alone, and went to bed where in a reclining position with score sheets all about him, he wrote a brilliant introduction to his brilliant opera. Suddenly a gust of wind entered unbidden at the window and scattered the precious sheets about the room. Several disappeared through the lattice. Rossini, heavy with the consequences of his culinary genius, re-wrote a fresher and better prelude, tucked it under his corpulent person and rolled over for a final nap, after which he hastened to the opera house with his masterpiece. His best work was done on a full stomach.

* * * * *

Brillat-Savarin, author of “Gastronomy as a Fine Art,” rather whimsically names “Gasteria” the tenth and fairest of the Muses. The writers of this book name her as the first.

R. H. D.

CONTENTS

_PART ONE: CONTRIBUTORS_

PAGE I _Meredith Nicholson_ 31 WABASH VALLEY STEAK

II _Rex Beach_ 34 ONION CLAM CHOWDER

III _Hudson Maxim_ 35 SPAGHETTI

IV _Warren G. Harding_ 36 WAFFLES

V _Ellis Parker Butler_ 31 BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN

VI _Jules J. Jusserand_ 38 RADISH SALAD

VII _Bruce Barton_ 39 RICE PUDDING

VIII _Richard Bennett_ 40 LIEDERKRANZ Á LA HOOSIER

IX _Walt Louderback_ 41 CORN CHOWDER

X _Captain Robert A. Bartlett, U.S.A._ 42 COD FISH

XI _George F. Worts_ 43 SWEET POTATO PONE

XII _Gelett Burgess_ 45 PANDOWDY

XIII _William Allen White_ 46 VEGETABLE SALAD

XIV _Irvin S. Cobb_ 48 HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS (PADUCAH STYLE)

XV _Richard Walton Tully_ 49 HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA “THE BIRD OF PARADISE”

XVI _William Johnston_ 51 OYSTERS PECHEUR

XVII _Dr. Charles M. Sheldon_ 52 LIKES BREAD AND MILK

XVIII _James Montgomery Flagg_ 53 “JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS”

XIX _Roy L. McCardell_ 54 “EGGS MUSHROOMETTE”

XX _Judge Ben B. Lindsey_ 56 BRAN MUFFINS

XXI _Otis Skinner_ 57 ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIO

XXII _Dan Beard_ 58 A BURGOO

XXIII _De Wolf Hopper_ 60 RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE

XXIV _Chick Evans_ 61 TOMATO SOUP

XXV _Joshua A. Hatfield_ 63 EGGPLANT SAUTÉ Á L’ALEXANDER POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER GARNITURE FONDU AU FROMAGE Á L’ALEXANDER POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE Á L’ALEXANDER ROMAINE SALAD Á L’ALEXANDER ROGNONS DE VEAU Á L’ALEXANDER STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER

XXVI _Stewart Edward White_ 69 MULLIGAN

XXVII _Oliver Herford_ 70 FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS

XXVIII _Reed Smoot_ 71 PEACH COBBLER

XXIX _Ray Long_ 72 SHAD ROE DESSERT

XXX _Kenneth C. Beaton_ 73 LOBSTER

XXXI _John Harvey Kellogg, M. D._ 75 MACARONI WITH CHEESE SAVORY POTATOES

XXXII _Clare Briggs_ 77 WAFFLES

XXXIII _Edward W. Bok_ 78 ASPARAGUS

XXXIV _Charles Hanson Towne_ 80 CORN PUDDING

XXXV _Jerome D. Kern_ 81 TERRAPIN

XXXVI _Daniel Willard_ 82 COTTAGE PUDDING STRAWBERRY SAUCE

XXXVII _Houdini_ 83 SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS AND DEVILED EGGS THE MUSHROOM DISH THE EGGS

XXXVIII _Charles P. Steinmetz_ 84 MEAT LOAF

XXXIX _Charlie Chaplin_ 86 STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE

XL _Dr. Frank Crane_ 87 ROUND STEAK

XLI _Robert H. Davis_ 89 CREAM SAUCE Á LA WORCESTERSHIRE

XLII _John A. Dix_ 90 FRIED TROUT

XLIII _Guy Bates Post_ 91 LAMB CURRY Á LA “OMAR, THE TENTMAKER”

XLIV _Dr. Don Rafael H. Elizalde_ 93 SANCOCHO YAPINGACHO

XLV _Bide Dudley_ 95 TOMATO SOP

XLVI _William Hale Thompson_ 96 ROAST BEEF

XLVII _Booth Tarkington_ 97 CORN FLAKES

XLVIII _T. A. Dorgan_ 98 CHILÏ CON CARNE

XLIX _William de Leftwich Dodge_ 99 RAGOUT DE MOUTON

L _Montague Glass_ 100 BOUILLABAISSE

LI _John Philip Sousa_ 103 PELOTAS Á LA PORTUGUESE SPAGHETTI

LII _Will Hays_ 105 CHICKEN PILAU

LIII _Frank Ward O’Malley_ 106 RUM-TUM-TIDDY

LIV _Charles Evans Hughes_ 108 CORN BREAD

LV _Walter Prichard Eaton_ 109 MINCE PIE THE FILLING

LVI _W. T. Benda_ 113 POLISH SPECIALTIES BARSHCK WITH USHKA USHKA BURACHKI

LVII _Captain Edward A. Salisbury_ 118 SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTI EGGS Á LA SALISBURY FISH Á LA COMMODORE TO COOK TROUT VENISON STEAK GOOSE A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSING DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL BEANS ITALIAN RICE STEAK SAUCE

LVIII _Thomas H. Ince_ 126 CHICKEN HALIBUT ONION SOUP AU GRATIN RICE Á LA MANHATTAN

LIX _George Ade_ 128 “SCOLLOPED” OYSTERS

LX _Lyman Abbott_ 130 DEEP APPLE PIE

LXI _Terry Ramsaye_ 131 LETTUCE (Á LA RED CREEK)

LXII _R. L. (Rube) Goldberg_ 133 HASH

LXIII _Channing Pollock_ 134 CORN BREAD

LXIV _Hussein Kahn Alai_ 135 CHIRIN POLOW

LXV _William J. Bryan_ 138 FRENCH-FRIED ONIONS

LXVI _Will Irwin_ 139 HAM AND EGGS

LXVII _Douglas Fairbanks_ 140 BREAD TART

LXVIII _Julian Street_ 141 SOLE Á LA MARGUERY AND DUCK WITH ORANGES SOLE Á LA MARGUERY DUCK BIGARADE

LXIX _S. S. McClure_ 143 OMELETTE—AND PIE

LXX _Basil King_ 145 LOBSTER Á LA KING

LXXI _John A. Moroso_ 146 SPAGHETTI-FOR-THE-GANG

LXXII _F. X. Leyendecker_ 148 VEAU SAUTÉ MARENGO VOL AU VENT FINANCIÉRE

LXXIII _Eddie Cantor_ 150 BOILED BEEF AND HORSERADISH SAUCE

LXXIV _Frazier Hunt_ 151 STUFFED CELERY

LXXV _Wm. Slavins McNutt_ 152 ORANGE COMPOTE

LXXVI _Stephen Vincent Benet_ 154 ZITELLI’S MACARONI STEW

LXXVII _James R. Quirk_ 155 TOMATO WIGGLE

LXXVIII _Charles W. Eliot_ 156 A FAVORITE MENU

LXXIX _H. S. Cumming_ 158 VIRGINIA EGG BREAD

LXXX _Joseph Santley_ 159 COCOA CREAM CAKE

LXXXI _A. Hamilton Gibbs_ 160 SQUAB EN CASSEROLE

LXXXII _Richard Barthelmess_ 161 SPICED GRAPES

LXXXIII _Don Juan R. y Gayangos_ 162 EGG PLANT AU GRATIN

LXXXIV _Samuel G. Blythe_ 163 TRIPE Á LA MODE DE CAEN Á LA ROY CARRUTHERS

LXXXV _Charles H. Taylor_ 165 CLAM CHOWDER

LXXXVI _Cyrus H. K. Curtis_ 167 BAKED BEANS

LXXXVII _Frederic Arnold Kummer_ 169 SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE

LXXXVIII _Albert D. Lasker_ 170 CHICKEN PAPRIKA

LXXXIX _Henry Van Dyke_ 171 FISH CHOWDER

XC _Macklyn Arbuckle_ 172 SOUTHERN GUMBO Á LA “COUNTY CHAIRMAN”

XCI _John Taintor Foote_ 174 MORELS SAUTÉ

XCII _Maurice Francis Egan_ 176 A DIPLOMATIST’S RECEIPT FOR WELSH RABBIT

XCIII _Livingston Farrand_ 178 SAUSAGE AND GRIDDLE CAKES

XCIV _F. Ziegfeld, Jr._ 179 LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS

XCV _Harold Lloyd_ 181 LEMON LAYER CAKE

XCVI _Luther Burbank_ 183 TURKEY Á LA BURBANK

XCVII _Raymond McKee_ 185 TO COOK RABBITS

XCVIII _Will Deming_ 187 VIRGINIA HAM LEMON PIE A DRESSING

XCIX _Charles W. Chessar_ 189 TIPS ON STEAKS

C _Arthur T. Vance_ 191 SALADE Á LA TURC PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING WELSH RABBIT Á LA MORGAN ROBERTSON

CI _Baron de Cartier_ 195 WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE

CII _Dean Cornwell_ 197 SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE

PART TWO: RECIPES

BREADS—MUFFINS—WAFFLES—ETC. BRAN MUFFINS 56 BREAD AND MILK 52 CORN BREAD 108, 134 CORNFLAKES 97 GRIDDLE CAKES 178 SWEET POTATO PONE 43 VIRGINIA EGG BREAD 158 WAFFLES 36, 77

EGG DISHES DEVILED EGGS 83 EGGS Á LA SALISBURY 119 EGGS “MUSHROOMETTE” 54 EGGS USED WITH ASPARAGUS 79 HAM AND EGGS 139 OMELETTE 143 POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE A L’ALEXANDER 65

SOUPS—MULLIGANS—BOUILLABAISSE BARSHCK 113 BARSHCK WITH USHKA 113 BEAN SOUP 124 BURGOO, A 58 BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN 37 BOUILLABAISSE 100 CORN CHOWDER 41 CLAM CHOWDER 165 FISH CHOWDER 171 MULLIGAN 69 ONION CLAM CHOWDER 34 ONION SOUP AU GRATIN 126 SANCOCHO 93 TOMATO SOUP 61 WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE 195

FISH—OYSTERS—LOBSTER—ROE—ETC. BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER 67 CHICKEN HALIBUT 126 COD FISH 42 COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER (FOR COLD SALMON) 64 FISH Á LA COMMODORE 119 FRIED TROUT 90 HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA BIRD OF PARADISE 49 LOBSTER Á LA KING 145 LOBSTER (K C B) 73 OYSTERS PECHEUR 51 “SCOLLOPED” OYSTERS 128 SHAD ROE 72 SOLE Á LA MARGUERY 141 STEAMED CLAMS 97 TROUT, TO COOK 120

FOWL (DOMESTIC AND WILD) CHICKEN PAPRIKA 170 CHICKEN PILAU 105 CHIRIN POLOW (PERSIAN) 135 DUCK BIGARADE 142 DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL 122 ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER 68 GOOSE, THE BEST WAY TO COOK 121 LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS 179 SOUTHERN GUMBO Á LA “COUNTY CHAIRMAN” 172 SQUAB EN CASSEROLE 160 SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER 64 SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER GARNITURE 65 TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL 123 TURKEY Á LA BURBANK 183

MEATS—MEAT DISHES AND SAUCES

CHILI CON CARNE 98 CREAM SAUCE Á LA WORCESTERSHIRE 89 HASH—A NEW METHOD 133 HAM AND EGGS 139 HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS 48 HORSERADISH SAUCE 150 LAMB CURRY Á LA “OMAR THE TENT MAKER” 91 MEAT LOAF 84 PELOTAS Á LA PORTUGUESE 103 RABBIT, TO COOK 185 RAGOUT DE MOUTON 99 ROAST BEEF, TIPS ON COOKING 96 ROGNONS DE VEAU Á L’ALEXANDER 66 ROUND STEAK—REALLY DELICIOUS 87 SANCOCHO (FROM ECUADOR) 93 SPICED GRAPES 161 STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE 86 STEAK SAUCE 125 STEAK, TIPS ON 189 TERRAPIN 81 TRIPE Á LA MODE DE CAEN 163 USHKA (POLISH) 114 VEAU SAUTÉ MARENGO 148 VOL AU VENT FINANCIÈRE 149 VENISON STEAK 120 VIRGINIA HAM 31 WABASH VALLEY STEAK 187