Category: Travel Writing

The Spell of Belgium

The winter which I spent in Belgium proved a unique niche in my experience, for it showed me the daily life and characteristics of a people of an old civilization as I could never have known them from casual meetings in the course of ordinary travel.

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

The winter which I spent in Belgium proved a unique niche in my experience, for it showed me the daily life and characteristics of a people of an old civilization as I could nev...

2. CHAPTER II

The American Legation in Brussels was in the Quartier Leopold, on one of the many hills on which the city was built. It was owned by the Comte d'Assche, not by our Government, b...

3. CHAPTER III

The social life of Brussels we found very interesting. That of the Court was simple but elegant, while that of the aristocracy was old-world and conservative to a degree. Indeed...

4. CHAPTER IV

Many centuries ago, there was fierce fighting in the glorious Meuse valley, where history seems to have a fancy for repeating itself. Then, as today, Dinant was a center of even...

5. CHAPTER V

Of more interest than Philip the Bold or John the Fearless is the beautiful Jacqueline of Bavaria, who was married to John's nephew, John of Brabant. According to tradition, Jac...

6. CHAPTER VI

A trying period of fifteen years followed the battle of Waterloo. The Congress of Vienna made Holland and Belgium one kingdom under the name of the United Netherlands. But this...

7. CHAPTER VII

Belgian politics had a peculiar fascination for me from the first. It began perhaps with my amazement at their system of plural voting, which was different from anything of whic...

8. CHAPTER VIII

Belgium was slightly larger than the State of Massachusetts, yet she ranked eighth among the nations in wealth, and sixth in commerce. Antwerp was one of the five great ports of...

9. CHAPTER IX

As we were intensely interested in tapestries we often went to the Museum to study and admire the most famous set in Brussels, an early Renaissance series of four pieces, called...

10. CHAPTER X

In the Low Countries, perhaps more than in any other part of Europe, has the many-sided life of the people revealed itself through the various forms of artistic expression. Reli...

11. CHAPTER XI

Although for many, perhaps most, of my readers, Belgian literature is summed up in the one word, Maeterlinck, it is nevertheless true that the writers of this little country hav...

12. CHAPTER XII

Brussels is ideally located for the motorist. From it both the Flemish and the Walloon districts could easily be reached. To be sure, the towns were paved with the famous Belgia...

13. CHAPTER XIII

It was a fine night in the year 54 B.C., the sky clear, the air calm, when a boat--a sort of raft of basket work covered with ox hides--was slowly following the ebb of the Schel...

14. CHAPTER XIV

The line of the old Flemish principality ran from Antwerp southwest to Courtrai, but today the line that divides the French and the Flemish speaking Belgians runs due east and w...

15. CHAPTER XV

Last night, when the half moon was golden and the white stars very high, I saw the souls of the killed passing. They came riding through the dark, some on gray horses, some on b...