Part 14

By the late Mrs. ANN ROY, of Mathews county, Virginia.

Tho' Ocean's _pride_ be thy home, my boy, I have heard thy laugh of infant joy; Tho' Albion's breezes fan thy rest, I have seen thee smile on thy mother's breast.

Like the forms that float in the summer heaven, Fair Fancy's dreams have often given Thy cherub beauty to my sight Than those fairy tints more soft, more bright.

Yes, I have watched in sleep thine eye, More darkly blue than the starlit sky, By thy fringed lids now hid--now beaming Like harebells mid a snow-wreath gleaming.

And I've longed thy ruby lip to press, And I've sighed thy sunny brow to bless, And to teach thee thy father's land to love, So come o'er the wave, my island dove!

For here the sun doth brightly beam Mid the feathery foam of the mountain stream, And o'er the lake's clear beautiful face, The dark trees bend with a shadowy grace.

And in rosy bowers the Eglantine With the golden blossoms of Jasmine twine, And the fruits and flowers wear a brighter hue, And the heavens look on us more cloudlessly blue;

And from each hearth at the quiet even, The voice of prayer ascends to heaven; And the wild birds carol with joyous glee, In our own fair land of the happy and free.

Come list to the music of every rill, Which sends through our bosoms a magical thrill; Dream not of the depths of the dark blue sea, For the heavens will surely smile on thee.

Sweet scion of Columbia's race, Come to thy kindred's fond embrace! Come to the land once thy parents home, Never again from her shores to roam!

For the Southern Literary Messenger.

LINES.

BY ALEX. LACEY BEARD.

O! there are many brilliant things To light this darksome life, And many bright imaginings With wild enjoyment rife. The flashing of the sparkling stream-- The billows bounding free-- The glittering of the sunny beam Upon the dark green sea. The lightning flash that rends the air-- The meteor's dazzling light That fiercely gleams with fitful glare Amid the starless night.

And there are many lovely things That grace the smiling earth-- The gushing of a thousand springs-- The laughing streamlet's mirth-- The swift deer bounding through the wood-- The merry singing bird;-- Its sweet tones in the solitude Of lonely forests heard. The greenwood and the grassy plain-- The silent mountain glen Where nature sways her wild domain, Far from the haunts of men.

The mountain where the cedars high Bend to the passing breeze-- The murm'ring pines that softly sigh-- The music of the trees-- The sparkling dew-drop on the grass-- The river's golden sand-- The flitting of the shades which pass In grandeur o'er the land. The whippoorwill's sad cry at night, Heard from some lonely dell-- The streaming of the pale moonlight, Old nature's magic spell.

The rainbow's arch that spans the sky-- The shining stars above-- The glancing of a kindling eye-- The tones of one we love. The glowing kiss all fondly pressed On lips both warm and true-- The beating of a tender breast, Which only throbs for you. These gild with sunshine and delight The paths of life, and throw Upon its darkling streams a bright, And never fading glow.

By what _bizzarrerie_ does it happen that Sardanapalus is discovered in Greek literature under the name of Tenos Concoleros?

For the Southern Literary Messenger.

EXTRACTS FROM MY MEXICAN JOURNAL.

Visit to Tescuco--Bath of Tescusingo--Otumba--Aqueduct of Zempoala--Agave Americana--Pyramids of Teotihuacán.

DECEMBER 25, 1825. Mr. P. and myself left Mexico at half past nine this morning for _Tescuco_. We travelled in a Mexican coach, equipped in the usual style, and loaded with the usual encumbrances of beds, &c. Following the road which leads towards _Vera Cruz_ as far as the little Indian town of _Los Reyes_, we there left it to cross the dry bed of the lake of _Tescuco_, upon the border of which we had been riding, to the small village of _La Magdalena_; and soon reached a pretty and well cultivated country, strewed thickly with villages and farmhouses (_haciendas_). After passing Chiquluapa and Quautlalpa, we again were in view of the lake, which an intervening ridge had intercepted. On the left, less than a league from Tescuco, is the fine _hacienda_ of Chapingo, owned by the Marquis of Vivanco. Between this and the town, we passed what is called "El puente de los Bergantines"--a pile of strongly cemented stone, through which the road is cut, presenting not the slightest resemblance to a bridge. But this is classic ground, for here Cortes is said to have launched his vessels into the lake upon that memorable occasion which preceded the destruction and capture of the seat of the Mexican Empire. On entering a place so celebrated in the histories of the Conquest, the wretched adobe-built houses near the gate of the town, might well diminish the enthusiasm of the traveller and the antiquarian, were not his attention caught by a large artificial pile, now in ruins, without the gate to the right. Every thing connected with this remarkable people is interesting, even although the remaining vestiges are too slight to enable one to trace them distinctly and satisfactorily. Such is the nature of this ruin; but the presumption may not be altogether unfounded, that this was the site of an ancient temple, and perhaps the centre of this once great city.

We arrived at two o'clock, the distance from Mexico being seven leagues by the route we were obliged to travel, but only five across the lake. After an introduction to the ladies of the house, to which we had been kindly invited, we were conducted to the cock-pit, where we were presented to our host. We found it filled with men, women, and children, all taking a lively interest in the scene; but as we were less ardent sportsmen, we soon left the place, eager to commence our rambles in search of antiquities.

We were directed first to the Aduana--custom house--in the _patio_ or court of which lay a coiled rattlesnake, tolerably well sculptured out of a block of gray porphyry--its head, however, appeared disproportionally large. It still wears the mark of paint, although it has been exposed many years to the weather. Several other figures were shown to us--one a female with a finely turned shoulder--another was the arms of Spain, made probably shortly after the conquest--the rest were imperfect. Thence we were conducted to a house, outside the door of which was planted for a seat, a part of a human figure, of large size. In the degraded position it occupied, we could form no opinion of its excellence.

Thence we strolled to what is called the palace of the Tescucan kings. Its site fills the western side of the _Plaza_. Traces of its great extent are every where visible, but not clearly defined, for the ground it covered has been long cultivated, and a part of it is planted in _magueyes_. Several large stones still retain the position they must have occupied in the edifice--those which no doubt formed a corner, being squared and cut nicely, in a manner which would not be discreditable to the workmen of the present day in Mexico. At regular distances of about fifteen feet were placed others, the upper surfaces of which are rounded irregularly. In an excavation distant a few paces is a portion of a column, so covered that we could not discover its dimensions. If a conjecture can be hazarded, these stones were parts of corridors, supported by stone columns--possibly an excavation may disclose apartments below. It is, however, futile to form plans upon such insufficient data. The cutting of a ditch through the western section of the ruins, has exposed to view stones curiously scooped out, as if for the use of the founder; and near the centre of the square is another of a different figure, cut apparently for the same purpose--perhaps to mould a kettle which should rest on three corners or feet--the bottom hollowed. We continued our investigations until nearly dark, when we walked to the church of _San Francisco_, near by, in the pavement before the door of which, are several of these anciently wrought stones--some of very large dimensions--one is circular with a carved surface, but so much worn that we could not trace its figures.

The walls of the fortress which Cortes is represented to have constructed for his quarters, were next shown to us. Their height is about twenty feet--their width at the base about six or seven, decreasing towards the top. Some pronounce this the work of a more remote age, but the manner of its construction is sufficient evidence to the contrary. That it is a work of the Conqueror is a more reasonable conjecture, though even this is beset with difficulties. The time Cortes is said to have occupied the city of _Tescuco_, appears too short to have completed so huge a building: to this, however, it may be said, that he possessed ample means, with so many thousand Indians under his orders. But where was the necessity of raising such strong walls against adversaries so feeble, when, without so much severe labor, he might have defended himself equally well, and in the event of his being compelled to abandon it, he would have encountered less difficulty in recovering possession of it?

Thence we proceeded some distance--the moon shone brightly--to see other remains of an ancient structure, but being unsuccessful in our search, we returned to the house of our kind friends, the Camperos.

The town of _Tescuco_ now contains about 5,000 inhabitants--the houses are of one story only--with regular but unpaved streets, not very neat. Its modern mediocrity must contrast strongly with its ancient magnificence, if the early historians of Mexico are to be credited. During the revolution a ditch was dug around it, in order to repel the attacks of cavalry. It was assailed several times, and suffered some injury. It is by no means a pretty town, but is situated amid a pretty country, and supplied with good water.

DEC. 26. We appointed to-day to visit the mountain of _Tescusingo_. Before setting out, we made another circuit about the town, and found on a wall in front of one of the churches, a circular stone, the circumference of which was curiously carved. Near the northwestern corner of the _Plaza_ is a well constructed arch of _tetzontli_, cemented with lime, which had been discovered in opening a ditch--the extent and purpose of it are alike unknown. We next visited the house of the Most Holy Trinity, La Casa de la Santissima Trinidad, to examine an arch of stone, said to have been taken from the ruins of the palace. Its figure is beautiful--the whole is well wrought--and would do credit to any edifice. If an antique, of which there seems very little doubt, it proves beyond any thing I have yet seen, the civilized state which the Indians of Mexico had attained prior to the conquest. The arch of three pieces, and four stones which support it, believed to have once formed a portal in the palace, are perfect. The latter now are the sides of an entrance to a stable, the arch lies neglected in the yard--two stones are wanting to complete the supports to the arch.

We continued our walk to the ruins of an extensive building, upon which are growing numerous plants of the _maguey_. The layers of cement are seen distinctly--very smooth and hard. An old woman who lives near, has collected large pieces of this cement with which she has paved the _patio_ of her house; so solid is it, that one of our companions believed it to be stone, until he had tested it with the hammer.

At eleven o'clock we set out in our coach for the mountain distant near two leagues to the eastward of _Tescuco_. About a quarter of a mile from the town, we observed two circular carved stones which we had not time to examine. After riding a league over the plain, we stopped at the Molino de las Flores--mill of flowers--a most romantic spot. Great labor has been expended upon the race for conducting the water to the mill from the natural dam of rocks, over which the stream during the rainy season, dashes in torrents into a rugged bed. The plain from thence to the foot of the mountain being broken by deep _barrancas_--gullies--our carriage was unable to proceed farther. We were, therefore, compelled to walk, against our inclinations, for the sun was scorching, and we were aware of the labor we must encounter in the ascent of the mountain.

A walk of two miles brought us to the foot of the mountain of Tescusingo, the steep sides of which covered with _nopal_,[1] we began to climb slowly. After winding about midway up on the western side, our guide conducted us to the mouth of an apparently artificial cavern, with an entrance about six feet high--descending a dozen steps it takes a new direction. Having no lights we were obliged to leave it unexplored. Continuing to ascend, we passed towards the southern declivity, and soon met with cement, which in various parts of the mountain denotes extensive remains of ancient edifices--with walls constructed of _tetzontli_--and particularly with a large square stone hollowed neatly like a drain; and a reservoir for water appeared to have existed below it. We were now about three-fourths of the distance up the mountain, and had attained a terrace, along which we walked to the _Bath of Tescusingo_--the chief object of our visit. This remarkable work is cut out of a solid rock--hard feldspar porphyry--which hangs like a bird's nest upon the steep side, which faces to the south. An irregular platform of seven feet and a half diameter appears to have been first cut into the rock--the sides of the rock forming a wall smooth on the inside, nearly two feet and a half high, the outside left as nature made it--in the centre of this platform a circular bath is cut out, with a diameter of four feet seven inches, two feet deep, with two steps to descend into it. A perforation in one part of the platform shows where the water was admitted, and it escaped from the bath by a cleft which extends from top to bottom. The bath was probably covered with a roof--cavities in the rock seeming to indicate where posts once stood.

[Footnote 1: _Nopal_, a species of cactus.]

The view from this spot is the most beautiful that could have been selected on the mountain; and warmed by the sun, and sheltered from the winds of the north, it was, also, the most delightful. The city of Mexico is seen distinctly, the lake of _Tescuco_ and populous plains intervening, in the southwest; and to the south rise the snowy mountains of _Puebla_.

From the bath, we continued our walk along the terrace, upon which still exist traces of an aqueduct, which, at the eastern extremity of _Tescusingo_, crossed from the contiguous mountain upon an artificial pile of stone, conveying water, we were informed, a distance of seven or eight leagues. We were yet several hundred feet from the top. Ascending farther, we encountered other remains of structures, and came to a levelled surface about fifty feet square. All these are convincing proofs of the numerous edifices which once existed upon this mountain, but we must ever remain ignorant of their nature and purpose. Upon the summit, which commands a fine view of the surrounding country, is a rock of huge size, in which seats have been cut.

In our descent on the northern side, which is very rough and steep, we discovered accidentally a flight of seven steps cut out of a single rock--of these, our guide, an Indian antiquarian of _Tescuco_, had heretofore been ignorant. Many objects worthy of investigation will no doubt reward those who should diligently extend their researches upon the mountain of _Tescusingo_. We reached the foot without further incident, and rejoined our carriage at the mill, much fatigued with our ramble under a burning sun. Soon after four we were again under the roof of our kind host.

After dinner, our friend, Don Nicolas Campero, conducted us to the ruins which I have already mentioned to be just without the gate of the town. Their structure and extent are marked by the revolutionary trenches which surround them. The occasional layers of cement are perpendicular as well as horizontal, and between them are laid _adobes_--unburnt bricks--which compose the work. Judging from appearances, it would not be rash, perhaps, to conjecture that this was the site of the Great Temple, which, we are assured, was always constructed upon eminences like this. Its distance from the palace amply proves the extent of the ancient city of _Tescuco_ to have been very great.

DEC. 27. After breakfast, we rode a league to see the _ahuahuetes_[2]--cypress trees--of large dimensions, some of them are not less than fifty feet in circumference. A large edifice, it is believed, stood once in the midst of them. There are traces of buildings. The regularity with which these trees are disposed, proves, beyond a doubt, that they were planted. They are so regular, that in order to enclose three sides of a square it was necessary to lay a few _adobes_ only between them. Two rows of these trees form a long street. This grove of _ahuahuetes_ is seen distinctly from the city of Mexico, their deep green contrasting strongly with the dry and open plain which surrounds them.

[Footnote 2: _Cupressus disticha_. The largest tree known of this description is at the village of Atlixco, in the state of Puebla. It is in circumference 23.3 metres, or 76½ English feet.--_Humb. New Spain_, _l. 3. c. 8, p. 154. Ed. of 1827_.]

We employed the afternoon in revisiting the antiquities of _Tescuco_. We were also conducted to the garden belonging to the convent of San Francisco, where a remarkable carved stone lies neglected under a tree. It is round and represents a man, whose nose is prodigious, in a kneeling attitude, holding something--what it is we could not discover--in his hands; behind him is another figure, which defied all our efforts to decipher it.

At night, we accompanied the young ladies of the house to a ball given by the principal merchant of the town. The room was filled with men, women, and cigar smoke. This compelled us to make an early retreat, for our eyes were not yet insensible to its effect.

DEC. 28. After an early breakfast, and the completion of some repairs to our coach, we took leave of the excellent family who had entertained us most hospitably. We now directed our steps towards _Otumba_. Passing several small villages--some of them are very picturesque, with their enclosures of the _cactus cylindricus_, which grows to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet--the country became barren and uninteresting, until we reached the fine hacienda of _San Antonio_. Here we deviated from the direct route, but were compensated for the loss of time by the sight of an extensive stone wall, built to contain water for the purpose of irrigating the estate, and for the use of the cattle. This large _presa_--or pond--was the work of the Jesuits, who formerly owned the finest property in New Spain, and who were sagacious and industrious in improving their possessions. Retracing our steps, we passed the extensive buildings of _San Antonio_, leaving immediately upon our left its beautiful wheat fields, which the laborers were then engaged in watering. This is the dry season, and wheat will grow only where it can be irrigated frequently.

Beyond the village of _San Pedro_, we ascended the _tepetate_[3] lomes--_lomas_--of the eastern side of the plain of Mexico, upon which soil the roads are always worn deep and rough. On arriving at the summit of a low ridge which we were crossing, the Pyramids of Teotihuacán unexpectedly presented themselves to our view. Though ignorant that we were so near to them, yet we could not mistake them, their figure is still so well preserved, whilst centuries have rolled away since their construction.

[Footnote 3: A hard white clay peculiar to the plains of Mexico, devoid of vegetation, and very painful to the eyes under a burning sun. The _lomas_ are the rising ground between the plains and the mountains.]

Leaving the pyramids and village of San Juan de Teotihuacán to our left, we travelled on two leagues farther to _Otumba_, where we arrived at three o'clock, having been six hours on the road from _Tescuco_. We were told the distance was only seven leagues. It is true we once lost our way, and our kicking mules occasioned some detention, but I think another league may be safely added.

A gentleman of _Otumba_, to whom we had brought a letter of introduction, being unfortunately absent, we were directed to the only _meson_--public house--in the place, where we took a hasty meal in the kitchen, having, in the mean time, sent our letter to the gentleman's brother, who might, we thought, aid us in our research for antiquities. But this man sent us an uncourteous answer, and we sallied out in quest of the curate, who was absent also; but we found what perhaps was better--a remnant of an ancient column in the churchyard. We met a well dressed man, from whom we expected to glean some information. He proved to be a stupid lay-priest, who knew nothing of the existence of any antique in _Otumba_, but he undertook to inquire at a store near the _plaza_. Those he asked were as ignorant as himself; but our foreign appearance having by this time excited some curiosity, several of the inhabitants collected around us, and learning our wish to find an ancient column which we understood to exist there, conducted us to the centre of the _plaza_, where the object of our search was lying prostrate. It is a column of reddish sand stone, the base, and a portion of the shaft only remaining, the entire length of which is eight feet two inches. The shaft is an octagon of unequal sides, and carved with diamond figures interchained with each other. The lower part of the shaft, one foot and a half next the base, is of a bulbous figure, also carved. The diameter of the column is one foot and three quarters. In another spot, a cleft fragment was shown, seven feet two inches long, said to have formed a part of the column above described--if so, augmenting its entire length to fifteen and a half feet, without the capital, of which we could discover no traces. We were told that this column, previously to the revolution, was standing in the _plaza_, supporting the arms of Spain. During the war it was thrown down--has been broken for various purposes, and its remains now lie neglected, an object of interest to the curious traveller only.

All our new friends now volunteered to show us something, and we had nearly seen nothing in the contest of each to carry us to different places. At length, we effected a compromise, and were carried to search a _corral_ or cattle yard for the capital of the column. We looked in vain in yard and stable, notwithstanding one present assured us he had seen it. We abandoned the pursuit of the evanescent block, and were conducted by an old man (who was called Cortés, and who affected to be of pure Indian blood, and to despise all others who were not,) to his house, in a corner of which was worked a carved stone--evidently an antique, but it was a work posterior to the conquest, for it represented an armed man on horseback. Cortés then carried us to the rear of the church, to see another carved stone, but it was placed so high in the wall that we could scarcely distinguish it, but enough appeared to convince us that it bore the arms of Spain. These instances prove how cautious we must be in adopting the opinions of the natives on antiquarian matters.

It was now dark, and we returned to our _meson_, as miserable and cheerless a house of entertainment as traveller ever entered. We made, nevertheless, a good supper of eggs, _frijoles_ (beans), and wine, of which we partook in the kitchen.