Part 1

_The New Cookery Books_

I The Soup and Sauce Book

THE

NEW COOKERY BOOKS.

By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.

Fcap. 8vo, cloth 2s. each.

I. THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.

II. THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.

III. THE PASTRY AND SWEET BOOK.

London: GRANT RICHARDS.

The Soup and Sauce Book

By Elizabeth Douglas

London Grant Richards 48 Leicester Square

Preface

The English--to their loss--are not a soup-eating nation; and for the most part, those of us that do care for soups are obstinately conservative in our tastes. The ordinary restaurant thinks it has done its duty when ox-tail, mock-turtle and tomato soup have been included in the bill of fare. Yet the range of soups is very wide, as the hundred pages of recipes (by no means exhaustive) that follow will show; and that they may lead some readers to add to the elasticity of the domestic menu, is the ambition of the compiler. All are good, few are expensive, and none exotic. I should like it to be understood also that the directions need not be considered absolutely final. Every recipe can be made the basis of mild experiment, by slight differences in the ingredients or quantities. Two final remarks: soup never ought to be served in large quantities (our tendency in England when we take it is to take too much); and in the preparation of it the first and last word is “simmer.”

E. D.

Table of Contents

Soups

PAGES

Stocks 7-11

Clear Soups 16-22

Thick Soups 24-33

Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock 35-40

Vegetable Soups made without Stock 42-48

Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg 51-58

Vegetable Purées 61-70

Meat Purées 73-76

Bisques 78-80

Fish Soups 82-85

Broths 87-92

Broths and Soups for Invalids 95-101

Accessories 104-108

Sauces

Hot Sauces for Fish 112-116

Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc. 118-124

Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc. 126-130

Hot Sauces for Game, etc. 132-135

Cold Sauces 137-141

INDEX 143-146

General Remarks on Stock

Stock is the basis of all soups, except those which the French call _potages maigres_, which have no meat in them. For clear soups the stock is a good consommé, which must be made absolutely clear, and without any fat. For thick white soups, chicken or veal stock is used. For brown thick soups, a dark stock. For purées, white or brown stock, according to their colour.

Stock will keep for several days--in winter for a week.

A tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat will greatly improve the flavour of a poor stock.

_Utensils._--Of special utensils for making soup, porcelain-lined sauce-pans are the most satisfactory, and should always be used if possible. There is nothing so good or clean as the large French _pot au feu_, which can be bought in Soho. Earthenware sauce-pans are also good.

It saves trouble when straining soup to have a large deep bowl or jar, and a colander or wire sieve which fits perfectly into it.

Wooden or silver spoons should be used.

_The fire._--In making stock it is most important to have a steady fire, which need not be interfered with, so that an even temperature may be kept. Stock should be allowed to come slowly to the boil, and then be set back to simmer so gently that bubbles rise from one side only of the pot.

_To prepare fresh meat for stock._--Look over the meat carefully. Cut away any part which is in the slightest degree tainted. Wipe the meat over with a clean cloth that has been dipped in cold water and wrung out. Cut the meat off the bones. Cut it into small pieces. Break the bones. If there is any marrow, take it out and spread it on the bottom of the pot that is to be used.

_Vegetables._--In hot weather it is better to make stock without vegetables, as they often turn it sour.

See that all vegetables used are perfectly clean. Cut them in two or three pieces if to be used for flavouring stock. If they are to be served with the soup, cut them regularly and carefully to the size required, and do not cook them in the soup for more than half-an-hour, or their flavour will be impaired.

Vegetables should be added in the proportion of about one carrot, one onion (or leek), half a turnip, a piece of celery, to every quart of stock. In the onion can be stuck a clove.

_Herbs._--To flavour stock with herbs, it is best to use a _bouquet_ (_i.e._ a small bunch of mixed herbs, a sprig or leaf each of sage, thyme, marjoram bay and parsley). This can be easily taken out of the soups before serving. If ground herbs are used, add about a tea-spoonful of mixed herbs to every quart of stock.

_Seasoning._--It is not necessary to season the original stock. In making it into different soups, the seasoning is of course a matter of taste; but, roughly speaking, to each quart may be put one small tea-spoonful of salt, two pepper-corns, or half a salt-spoon of ground pepper, and one clove.

_To remove fat from stock._--Every particle of fat must be removed from the stock from which clear soups are to be made. With stock which is to be thickened it is not so necessary to be particular, as the flour used for the purpose will absorb a good deal of fat. With broths, which should be particularly nourishing, it is merely a matter of taste how much fat is removed.

To remove fat from stock it is best to let it first become quite cold. The fat will then become quite solid, and can easily be removed with a knife. To remove the small particles which may still be left, dip a cloth in hot water, wring it out, and pass it over the stock. It will absorb all the fat.

If there is not time to allow the stock to cool first, a great deal of fat can be absorbed by tissue paper, which should be laid over it. Or it can be strained two or three times through cloths which have been put in very cold water and wrung out.

_To clarify stock for clear soups._--The addition of a little cold water to boiling stock will cause the scum to rise quickly. This can be done several times, and if thoroughly strained the stock should be clear.

To clarify soup more effectually, although the flavour is not improved by doing so, the white and shell of an egg are used. To every quart of stock (and it must be cold) add the white and broken shell of an egg. Beat together. Put in the pot, stir continually until hot. Then let it boil, untouched, for about ten minutes. Set back on the oven, throw in half a cup of cold water, and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Place a colander over the bowl, and when you are ready to strain the soup, put over the colander a napkin which has been dipped in very hot water and then wrung out. Let it drain through slowly, without any pressure, shifting the napkin gently if any part becomes clogged.

_Straining._--It is well, as I have said, to have a large, deep bowl, with a colander or strainer that fits tightly into it. Put a napkin or muslin over the colander, and take the soup out of the sauce-pan with a cup or ladle. Let it drain about a quarter of an hour without any pressure.

The napkins and muslin used for straining may be old, but must be fine and absolutely clean and sweet.

Stocks

PAGE

Brown Soup Stock 7

Common Stock 7

Clear Brown Stock 8

Consommé 9

Chicken Stock 9

Veal Stock 10

Economical Stock 10

Common Stock

1 lb. shin of beef 1 quart cold water Two or three vegetables

Cut the meat up into small pieces. Put it in a sauce-pan, and add the water. Allow it to stand for half-an-hour. Then put it on the fire. Let it come to the boil slowly. Simmer for two hours. Strain.

Brown Soup Stock

3 lbs. shin of beef 1 lb. bones 3 quarts cold water 2 carrots, 1 turnip 2 stalks of celery 3 onions 3 cloves Bouquet of herbs

Cut the meat into small pieces. Break the bones. Put three ounces of butter in a sauce-pan. When melted, add to it one-third of the meat and the onions sliced. Stew gently until a rich brown. Put with the rest of the meat, bones, etc., in a sauce-pan. Cover with water. Bring to the boil. Simmer four hours. Strain.

Clear Brown Stock

2 lbs. shin of beef 1 lb. knuckle of veal The carcase and bones of a fowl 3 pints of water 1 carrot 1 onion with a clove stuck in it 1 stick of celery 1 piece of parsley A small bouquet of herbs

Put the bones at the bottom of a sauce-pan. Place the meat, which should be cut up in small pieces, upon them. Cover with cold water. Leave the sauce-pan uncovered. Bring to the boil very slowly. When it boils throw in a half cup of cold water. (This will cause the scum to rise.) Skim. Bring to the boil again. Throw in a little more cold water. Skim. Bring to the boil. Add the vegetables. Set back on the fire, and allow it to simmer gently for three or four hours.

Strain through a napkin into a bowl and allow it to cool.

If required the soup can be further clarified (p. 4).

Consommé

1 lb. shin of beef 1 lb. veal The bones and carcases of fowls or game 2 quarts of stock Vegetables The white of an egg

Cut away all fat from the meat. Chop it up finely. Put the white of an egg in a basin. Add to it the chopped meat. Mix them well together with a silver spoon. Stir in a glass of cold water. Put the meat into a large sauce-pan. Add vegetables, the bones and carcases of birds. Cover with two quarts of good stock. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking to the sauce-pan.

When it boils, set back to simmer gently for three hours. Dip a napkin in hot water, wring it out, and strain the stock through it into a basin.

Chicken Stock

1 old fowl 1 quart water 1 carrot 1 stick of celery 1 small onion

Put the fowl and vegetables into a stew-pan, adding the bones or carcase of another fowl if possible. Cover with cold water, or weak clear stock. Let it boil up slowly and simmer for three hours. Skim. Pass the stock through a napkin, and set aside to cool.

Veal Stock

1 lb. knuckle of veal Chicken bones or carcases 1 quart of water Vegetables 1 blade of mace 1 clove

Cut up the veal. Break the bones. Add vegetables and spice. Cover with the water. Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours. Strain.

Economical Stock for thick Soups, Purées, etc.

An excellent although not very clear stock can be made from odds and ends of cooked meat and bones. For this purpose there should be an enamelled pot with a lightly fitting lid, and it should practically be kept in use continually.

Spread the bottom of the pot with butter, or marrow. Pack in pieces of meat, bone, gristle, the carcases of birds, two or three vegetables cut up in small pieces, two cloves, and a bouquet of herbs.

Cover the meat, etc., with cold water. Put on the lid. Heat slowly, and when it boils set back to simmer for four or five hours.

In preparing meat for this stock, look it over carefully; reject any piece which is not perfectly good, also all stuffing, skin, smoked or burnt pieces. A little beef fat can always be retained, but mutton fat should not be used as it is rank in flavour. Scrape the meat off the bones, and break the bones in small pieces.

A slice or two of lean ham, the gravy saved from any kind of roast, a little fresh meat finely chopped will greatly improve this stock.

General Remarks on Soups

_Utensils and Fire._--The remarks on pages 1 and 2 concerning the utensils and fire for making stock, apply also to the preparation of soups from stock.

_To thicken soups with flour only._--Mix flour or cornflour with a little cold water, milk or stock until perfectly smooth. Add more water or milk. Strain. Pour slowly into the soup, which should be nearly boiling. Let it come to a boil. Continue boiling for ten minutes (stirring all the time), or it will taste of flour. About one table-spoon of flour should be used to thicken each quart of stock.

_To thicken soups with butter and flour (roux)._--Melt some butter. Skim it till quite clear. Pour it into an earthenware sauce-pan, and add to it its weight in flour. Work with a wooden spoon until perfectly smooth. Stir over a fire for a few minutes. Then put it in a moderate oven. Stir occasionally, and be very particular that it does not colour or burn. It should be left in the oven from thirty to forty-five minutes. This thickening, which is called white roux, is used for white soups. Brown roux for brown soups is made in the same way, but is left in the oven until slightly coloured. It will keep for some time.

When adding roux to soups it is best first to melt it in a small sauce-pan, to thin it with a little hot stock, and then to add it gradually to the soups.

If the roux has not been prepared beforehand, the quantity required can be made in a short time by cooking the flour and butter together in a sauce-pan for five minutes for white roux or longer for brown roux. It should be stirred all the time.

A heaping table-spoon (or more) of roux should be added to every quart of soup to be thickened.

_Cornflour and roux._--The advantage of roux over cornflour is that the flour used in preparing the roux having been already cooked, it is not necessary to continue boiling the soups to which it is added, whereas cornflour being raw, the soups thickened by it must be boiled for some little time.

_To colour soups._--The colour of soups can be deepened by using caramel colouring, or glaze (see next page) (which will also add to their flavour).

_Caramel colouring._--Put half a pound of brown or white sugar in an iron sauce-pan, with a table-spoonful of water. Stir over a very gentle fire until it turns a deep, rich brown colour. Add half a pint of boiling water. Let it simmer very gently for twenty minutes. Allow it to get cold. Put it into bottles and cork. This makes an excellent and tasteless colouring, but it must be carefully made. The rich brown colour comes from slow and gentle cooking. If it is burnt and black it is useless.

Add to the soup a few minutes only before serving.

_Glaze._--Glaze is made by boiling down good stock until it is of a very thick and gluey consistency. Put a quart of rich stock into a sauce-pan over a good fire. Leave it uncovered, and boil it until it is reduced to half a pint. Let it cool. Put it in a jar or bottle. Cover closely, and keep in a cool place. This will keep for two or three weeks.

_Adding vegetables and meat to soups._--Whenever vegetables or meats have to be passed through a sieve or tammy, it will be found easier to do so if the pulp is kept continually well moistened with stock or milk (according to the soup which is being made).

_Wine and catsup._--Wine and catsup should always be added as late as possible, as they lose in flavour by being boiled.

Clear Soups

PAGE

Brunoise 16

Consommé with poached eggs 16

Croûte au pot 17

” ” gratinée 18

Game Soup 18

Imperial Soup 19

Julienne 20

Macaroni 20

Spring Soup 21

Vermicelli 22

Clear Soups with quenelles 22

Brunoise

3 pints strong consommé 1 carrot 1 turnip 1 leek 1 onion 1 stick of celery 1 small tea-cupful freshly cooked peas ” ” ” ” asparagus points ” ” ” ” French beans

Cut the carrot, turnip, leek, onion and celery into small dice-shaped pieces, using the red outer part of the carrot only. Fry them in butter until a light brown. Add them to the consommé, and after it has come to the boil, simmer gently until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Skim from time to time. Season. Add the cooked peas, beans and asparagus points. The beans should be cut into diamond-shaped pieces.

Consommé with poached eggs

6 eggs 1 quart consommé

Break the eggs carefully into boiling water, taking care that they do not run into each other. Cook until firmly set, but not hard. Take them out, put them on a dish, and trim neatly. Put them in a soup tureen and gently pour over them the hot consommé. Finely chopped and cooked vegetables may be added to the consommé.

Croûte au pot

1 quart clear brown stock ¹⁄₄ of a white cabbage 1 carrot ¹⁄₂ a turnip A little celery 2 thin slices of bread

Cut the celery, carrot and turnip into small equal pieces. Cut up the heart of the cabbage, and cook separately in salted water. Put the vegetables in a sauce-pan. Pour the stock over them. Simmer until tender. Add the cabbage. Season. Simmer for a few minutes. Toast the bread. Cut it into several pieces. Put them in a soup tureen. Pour the vegetables and stock over them. Serve. Grated parmesan can be served with this soup.

Croûte au pot gratinée

1 quart clear brown stock 1 tea-cup of mixed cooked vegetables cut in small pieces 4 small dinner rolls

Take out the crumb from the inside of three or four rolls. Put the crusts in an earthenware sauce-pan, and cover with a little clear brown stock. Let them simmer over a gentle fire until they have absorbed all the stock. Then put them in the oven until they are crisp, being very careful that they do not burn. Place them in a soup tureen with the cooked vegetables. Pour the well-seasoned boiling stock over them.

Game Soup

1 calf’s foot 1 or 2 birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several 1 slice lean ham 2 carrots 1 onion 1 piece of celery 1 sprig parsley 1 bay leaf Thyme 2 cloves 1 blade of mace 2 quarts of water 1 glass of sherry

Clean and cut up the calf’s foot. Put in a stew-pan with one or two whole birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several, a small piece of lean ham, the vegetables, herbs, etc. Cover with 2 quarts of water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Season. Strain. When cold clarify with white of egg (p. 4). Before serving add a glass of sherry, and two dozen small quenelles of game (p. 105).

Imperial Soup

1 quart clear consommé

_For Custard_

1 gill consommé 4 yolks of eggs Nutmeg Salt

Beat the yolks in a basin. Add a little salt and nutmeg. Stir in the consommé. Strain through a fine hair sieve into a shallow plain mould. Put it into a pan of boiling water, and steam until it sets. Turn out carefully on to a wet napkin. Cut into fancy or square shapes. Half of the mixture can, if wished, be coloured green with spinach colouring (p. 104). Place the custards carefully in a tureen, and pour the hot consommé over them.

Julienne

2 large carrots 1 turnip 1 piece of celery 1 small onion ¹⁄₄ white cabbage 1 lettuce A little sorrel 1 quart consommé 2 ozs. butter

Cut all the vegetables into thin shreds of equal length (about one inch). Use the red outer part of the carrots only, and the hearts of the lettuce and cabbage. Wash the sorrel and cabbage separately, and set aside. Put two ounces of butter and a salt-spoon of powdered sugar in a sauce-pan, add to it all the vegetables except the cabbage and sorrel. Let them turn a fine yellow, but be careful not to burn. Add the consommé. Bring to the boil. Drain. Season. Set back to simmer until the vegetables are tender. Then add the cabbage and sorrel, a leaf of tarragon and chervil. Simmer another ten minutes and serve.

Macaroni Soup

1 quart stock ¹⁄₂ pint macaroni

Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water half-an-hour. Drain. Pour cold water through the macaroni to prevent its sticking together. Put the sticks on a board and cut it, either very finely to make rings, or in half-inch pieces. Bring stock to the boil. Add the macaroni. Season.

Spring Soup

2 carrots 1 turnip ¹⁄₂ a head of celery 10 small onions 1 tea-cup of cauliflower cut into little branches Heart of a small white cabbage-lettuce A small handful of sorrel A leaf of chervil and of tarragon ¹⁄₄ pint peas ¹⁄₄ pint asparagus points ¹⁄₄ pint croûtons 1 quart consommé

Cut the carrots and turnip into small rounds or olive-shaped pieces. Add them, with the chopped up celery, whole onions and cauliflower, to a quart of consommé or chicken stock. Bring it to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Stamp the sorrel and lettuce into small round pieces. Add them, with a leaf of chervil and of tarragon and a tea-spoon of sugar, to the soup. When all the vegetables are tender add a quarter of a pint of young peas and the same quantity of asparagus heads both freshly cooked. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Vermicelli

¹⁄₄ lb. vermicelli 1 quart consommé

Break up the vermicelli in small pieces. Put it in cold water. Bring it to the boil, and boil it for four minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the consommé, which should be very clear, strong and well seasoned. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer until the vermicelli is tender.

Serve with grated parmesan in a separate dish.

Other Clear Soups

Clear soups can also be served with Italian paste, forcemeat balls, quenelles, rice, etc. For recipes for these see pages 103-108.

Thick Soups

PAGE

Brown Soup 24

Cream of Pearl Barley 25

Cream of Rice 25

Giblet Soup 26

Hare Soup 27

Left-over Soup 28

Mock-Turtle 29

Mulligatawny 30

Ox-tail 31

Venison Soup 33

Brown Soup

The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled 1 carrot 1 onion 1 turnip 1 head of celery ¹⁄₂ pint cooked young peas Brown roux 1 ounce of butter 1 tea-spoonful Liebig’s Extract of Meat 1 lump sugar

Boil down the water to one quart. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat carefully. Cut the vegetables into small equal pieces. Fry them a rich brown in one ounce of butter. Put the stock on the fire again. Add the vegetables and sugar. Simmer until they are tender. Add the peas. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Thicken with brown roux (see p. 12). Simmer another fifteen minutes. A few minutes before serving add a little caramel colouring (see p. 13) and the Liebig’s Extract.

Cream of Pearl Barley

¹⁄₂ lb. pearl barley 1 quart chicken stock 1 gill cream

Wash the barley thoroughly. Throw it into boiling water and let it boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it to separate the barley. Put the stock in a sauce-pan. Add the barley to it. Simmer for four hours--or until the barley is very tender. Set aside a little of the barley to add whole to the stock. Put the rest through a tammy. Add it to the stock with the whole barley. Season. Scald a gill of cream. Add to the soup.

If preferred the barley may be cooked separately in water.

Cream of Rice

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice 1 quart chicken stock 1 gill cream 1 tea-spoon of butter

Wash the rice and boil it several minutes in water. Drain. Add it to the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Rub through a tammy. Just before serving mix with the soup a gill of cream and a tea-spoonful of butter.

A little whole rice which has been boiled in chicken broth can be added to the soup, or it can be served with a dozen small quenelles of chicken (see p. 105).

Giblet Soup