The Skilful Cook A Practical Manual of Modern Experience
Chapter 6
_Ingredients_--Some cold roast beef minced. 1 boiled onion, very finely chopped. Some mashed potatoes. Butter. Pepper and salt. 1 egg. A little gravy and mushroom catsup.
_Method._--Mince the beef finely, and moisten it with a little nice gravy.
Add the onion to it, and season nicely with catsup.
Mix the mashed potatoes with plenty of butter, and the egg well beaten, pepper and salt.
Place the mince in greased scallop shells, and cover with the potatoes.
Bake in a quick oven until lightly browned.
When economy has to be studied, leave out the eggs and substitute clarified dripping for the butter. The mixture can be baked in a pie-dish, if more convenient.
Cold Beef Olives.
_Ingredients_--Some cold roast beef. Some veal forcemeat, omitting the suet. Some gravy. Flour. Pepper and salt. Some mashed potatoes.
_Method._--Take slices of cold beef, and cut them into strips 1½ inches in width.
Lay on each a little veal stuffing; roll them round it, and tie them with string.
Put them into a stewpan close together; pour the gravy over them, and simmer them gently for ten minutes.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Thicken the gravy with a little flour, and pour it over them.
ENTRÉES.
Quenelles of Veal.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of fillet of veal. 1 oz. of butter. 2 oz. of flour. 1 gill of water. A few drops of lemon juice. 2 eggs. Seasoning.
_Method._--Scrape the veal finely.
Melt the butter in a saucepan; mix in the flour.
Then add the water and cook well.
Put this panada into a mortar with the veal, eggs, lemon juice, and seasoning, and pound thoroughly.
Then rub through a wire sieve.
Shape the mixture somewhat like eggs with dessertspoons and a knife dipped in hot water.
Poach them gently in a greased frying-pan, or _sauté_ pan, for ten minutes.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes, and pour white sauce over them.
Garnish with chopped truffle and ham.
Cooked green peas, mushrooms, or other vegetables, may be placed in the centre.
Mutton Cutlets à la Macédoine.
_Ingredients_--Part of best end of neck of mutton. 1 egg. Bread-crumbs. 3 oz. of clarified butter. Seasoning.
_Method._--Saw off the chine bone, and the ends of the rib bones, leaving the cutlet bone three inches in length.
Cut the cutlets with a bone to each, and beat them with a cutlet bat to about half an inch in thickness.
Trim them, and leave half an inch of the rib bone bare.
Season, egg and bread-crumb, and fry in clarified butter in a _sauté_ pan for five or seven minutes.
Dish on a border of mashed potatoes, put a _macédoine_ of vegetables in the centre, and pour brown sauce round them.
Mutton Cutlets à la Rachel.
_Ingredients_--Some mutton cutlets. _Foie gras._ Brown sauce. _Macédoine_ of vegetables. Mashed potatoes. Truffle. Pigs' caul.
_Method._--Plainly fry some mutton cutlets, coat one side of each cutlet with the _foie gras_, smoothing it with a knife dipped in hot water.
Lay a small piece of truffle on each cutlet and cover them with pigs' caul.
Put them on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven for about a quarter of an hour.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour brown sauce round them, and put a _macédoine_ of vegetables in the middle.
Epigrammes.
_Ingredients_--The rib part, which was sawn off the mutton cutlets. Egg and bread-crumbs.
_Method._--Boil the mutton until the bones can be easily removed.
Press it, and, when cold, cut it into cutlets or other shapes.
Egg and bread-crumb twice, and fry in hot fat (345°) in a frying-basket.
Dish on a border of mashed potatoes, and pour brown sauce round them.
Any cooked vegetables can be put in the centre for a garnish.
Chicken Croquettes.
_Ingredients_--2 oz. of cooked chicken. 1 oz. of cooked ham. 1 oz. of butter. ¾ oz. of flour. 1 gill of stock. ½ gill of cream. 6 button mushrooms. A few drops of lemon juice. Seasoning. Pastry.
_Method._--Mince the chicken, ham, and mushrooms.
Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour.
Pour in the stock, and cook well.
Then add cream, lemon juice, and seasoning; lastly, the chicken, ham, and mushrooms.
Spread on a plate to cool.
Roll out some paste as thin as possible.
Cut into rounds.
Put a little of the mixture on each, and egg round the edges.
Fold them over, egg and bread-crumb the _croquettes_, and fry in a frying-basket in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
Garnish with fried parsley.
Veal Cutlets à la Talleyrand.
_Ingredients_--7 or 8 veal cutlets. 1½ oz. butter. 3 button mushrooms, chopped. 1 small shalot, chopped. A teaspoonful of chopped parsley. The yolks of 2 eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. A few drops of lemon juice. 1 gill of white sauce (_see_ Sauces). Some mashed potatoes. A few green peas. Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Fry the cutlets in the butter, sprinkling the mushroom, shalot, and parsley under and over them.
When the cutlets are cooked, remove them from the pan and pour in the white sauce and cream.
Stir briskly over the fire.
Then add the yolks of the eggs; let them thicken in the sauce, but be careful not to curdle them.
Take the pan off the fire, and add the lemon juice and seasoning as required.
Dish the cutlets on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour the sauce over them, and put a few nicely cooked peas, or other appropriate vegetables, in the middle.
Fillets of Beef à la Béarnaise.
_Ingredients_--7 or 8 nice little fillets. 1½ oz. of butter. Mashed potatoes. ½ pint of brown sauce (_see_ Sauces), or good gravy. Some good _Béarnaise_ sauce (_see_ Sauces).
_Method._--Fry the fillets in the butter.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour brown sauce or gravy round them, and put the _Béarnaise_ sauce in the middle of the fillets.
Rabbits à la Tartare.
_Ingredients_--1 rabbit. Some browned bread-crumbs. 1 egg. ½ pint of Tartare sauce (_see_ Sauces).
_Method._--Cut the rabbit into joints.
Dry them well.
Egg and bread-crumb them.
Put them on a greased baking-sheet, with pieces of butter on them.
Bake for half an hour, being careful not to dry them up too much.
Pour the sauce on a dish and pile up the rabbit in the middle of it.
Chicken à la Tartare.
Proceed as in the foregoing recipe, substituting a chicken for a rabbit.
Pigeons Stewed à l'Italienne.
_Ingredients_--3 pigeons. 1 piece of carrot, turnip, and onion. 1 pint of stock. 1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram. 1 bay leaf. If possible, 1 or 2 tomatoes. 1 wineglass of sherry. 2 oz. of butter. 1 oz. of flour. Some mashed potatoes. A _macédoine_ of vegetables.
_Method._--Have the pigeons trussed as for stewing.
Cut them in two, and fry them in the butter.
Then remove the pigeons, and fry the vegetables.
Stir the flour, and when that is a little brown, pour in the stock or sherry. Put in the pigeons and stew gently until they are tender.
Dish them in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Strain the gravy over, and put a _macédoine_ of vegetables in the centre.
Croustards à la Reine.
_Ingredients_--Some puff pastry. A little _quenelle_ meat (_see_ Quenelles of Veal). 1 gill of white sauce. 3 oz. of cold chicken minced. 1 oz. of cooked ham minced. 2 or 3 button mushrooms finely chopped. 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. A little thick white sauce. Ham or truffle for decoration.
_Method._--Line some little tartlet tins with some puff paste, put a piece of dough in each, and bake them.
Mix the chicken, ham, and mushrooms with the white sauce and cream. Add pepper and salt to taste.
Remove the paste cases from the tins, take the dough from the middle, and fill them with the chicken mixture.
Cover the top of each with the _quenelle_ meat spread like butter, put them into the oven for a few minutes to cook the _quenelle_ meat.
When dishing them up, spread a little thick white sauce on the top of each, and ornament them with ham and truffle.
Sweetbreads à la Béchamel.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen lambs' heart sweetbreads. 1¼ pint of veal stock. 1 oz. of butter. 1 oz. of flour. A small piece of carrot, turnip, and onion. 1 sprig of parsley. 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. A slice of lean ham. A few drops of lemon juice. Some mashed potatoes. A few green peas nicely boiled. A little finely-chopped cooked ham. Some parsley or truffle. Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Trim the sweetbreads, and soak them in cold water for two hours.
Then throw them into boiling water, and simmer them gently for five minutes.
Soak them again in cold water for twenty minutes.
Then put them in a stewpan with the stock, carrot, turnip, onion, parsley, and ham.
Simmer gently until the sweetbreads are quite tender.
Then remove them, and add to the stock the flour mixed thoroughly with butter.
Stir and boil well, to cook the flour.
Add the cream, lemon juice, and seasoning.
Strain the sauce through a fine strainer or tammy-cloth.
Dish the sweetbreads in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour the sauce over them.
Put on each sweetbread a tiny pinch of finely-chopped parsley, ham, or truffle; or use all three, placing them alternately.
The green peas should be put in the centre of the dish.
Braised Sweetbreads.
_Ingredients_--2 calves' sweetbreads. 1 pint of strong second stock. A piece of carrot, turnip, and onion. 1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram. 1 bay leaf. Some larding bacon. Some carrots and turnips cut in fancy shapes.
_Method._--Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for quite two hours.
Then put them in boiling water, and simmer them for ten minutes to make them firm.
Soak them again in cold water for twenty minutes, and then lard them nicely.
Put the vegetables, cut in pieces, in the bottom of a stewpan.
Lay the sweetbreads on them, and pour in the stock; it should come half way up the sweetbreads.
Cover them with buttered paper, and put the lid on the stewpan.
Simmer gently until the sweetbreads are tender.
Then put them on a baking-tin, and put them in the oven to brown.
Strain the stock they were cooked in into a large saucepan, and boil it rapidly down to a glaze.
Put the sweetbreads on a hot dish, and pour the glaze over.
Carrots and turnips may be cut in fancy shapes, and nicely boiled to garnish the dish.
If preferred, the sweetbreads can be cooked without being larded; a slice of very thin bacon being laid on the top of each.
If a proper braising-pan is used, the sweetbreads need not be browned in the oven.
Lambs' sweetbreads can be cooked the same way. One dozen will be wanted for a small dish.
Sweetbreads à la Parisienne.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen lambs' heart sweetbreads. 1 pint of good second stock. 2 oz. of butter. 1 oz. of flour. A piece of carrot, turnip, and onion. 1 sprig of parsley. 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup. 1 wineglass of sherry. A few drops of lemon juice. Pepper and salt. Some mashed potatoes. Green peas nicely cooked.
_Method._--Trim the sweetbreads and soak them for two hours; throw them in boiling water, and simmer them gently for five minutes; then soak them in cold water for twenty minutes.
Simmer them in the stock until they are quite tender.
Then make the butter quite hot in a stewpan.
Fry the sweetbreads in it until nicely browned.
Remove them and fry the flour; then pour in the stock, and stir, and cook well; add the catsup, wine, and lemon juice.
Dish the sweetbreads on a border of mashed potatoes, and pour the same over them.
Put a garnish of nicely cooked green peas in the middle.
Minced Sweetbread.
_Ingredients_--The remains of dressed sweetbreads. 2 or 3 mushrooms. Enough stock to moisten nicely. 1 teaspoonful of flour. A slice of cooked ham. A few drops of lemon juice. 1 oz. of butter. Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Mince the sweetbreads, mushrooms, and ham.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the mushrooms in it.
Put in the flour, and mix it smoothly with the butter.
Then put in the sweetbread and ham, and enough stock to mix nicely.
Add lemon juice, pepper, and salt, to taste.
Make it hot, and then put the mixture into oiled-paper cases.
Sprinkle over the top of each a few browned crumbs and put in the oven for a few minutes.
Fried Sweetbread.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen lambs' heart sweetbreads. 1 pint of good stock. 1 oz. of butter. 1 oz. of flour. A few drops of lemon juice. If liked, ½ wineglass of sherry. Eggs and bread-crumbs. Some mashed potatoes and green peas.
_Method._--Trim the sweetbreads, and soak them in cold water for two hours.
Then throw them into the boiling stock, and simmer them for half an hour or more until quite tender.
If possible, let them get cold in the stock.
Then egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in a frying basket in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
To make a sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan.
Mix in the flour smoothly, pour in the stock, and stir and cook well; add lemon juice, pepper, and salt to taste, and, if liked, a little sherry.
Dish the sweetbreads on the potatoes; pour the sauce round them, and put the peas in the centre.
The sauce should be made before the sweetbreads are fried, that there may be no delay in serving.
If calves' sweetbreads are used, proceed in the same way, cutting them in neat slices before frying.
Cutlets of Veal with Tomato Sauce.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of fillet of veal. 2 or 3 oz. of butter, or some of the fat skimmed from the stock-pot. 1 pint of tomato sauce. ¼ lb. macaroni, nicely stewed in milk and seasoned with Parmesan cheese. Some mashed potatoes. 1 uncooked tomato.
_Method._--Cut the veal into neat little cutlets, and fry them nicely in the butter or skimming.
Dish them in a circle on a border of potatoes.
Pile the macaroni high in the middle.
Pour tomato sauce round, and garnish the macaroni with small strips of uncooked tomato.
Beef Olives.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of thick beefsteak. Some veal stuffing. 1½ pint of stock. 1 oz. of butter. 1 oz. of flour. A few drops of lemon juice. Pepper and salt. Some mashed potatoes. A few carrots and turnips, cut in fancy shapes, and nicely cooked.
_Method._--Cut the beef into thin strips, lay a little forcemeat on each, and roll them up.
Tie each roll with a little fine string.
Put them in a stewpan close together, and cover them with the stock.
Stew them gently for two or three hours until quite tender.
Then place them in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Remove any fat from the stock, and stir in the butter and flour thoroughly mixed together.
Cook the flour well, and then add the lemon juice and seasoning.
Strain the sauce over the olives, and put the vegetables in the centre.
Veal à la Béchamel.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of cold cooked veal. ¼ lb. of button mushrooms. ½ pint of _Béchamel_ sauce. The yolks of 2 eggs. Some fried sippets of bread.
_Method._--Cut the veal into large dice.
Clean the mushrooms and stew them in the sauce until tender.
Then add the yolks of two eggs well beaten.
Stir over the fire until they thicken, but on no account let the sauce _boil_, as that might curdle the eggs.
Last of all, put in the pieces of veal, and let the saucepan remain by the fire until they are thoroughly heated.
Serve garnished with fried sippets of bread.
Grenadines of Veal.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of veal. Some larding bacon. Some good second stock. 1 piece of carrot, turnip, onion. 1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram. Some nicely boiled green peas.
_Method._--Cut the fillet into nice oval-shaped cutlets, about half an inch in thickness, and lard them.
Put the vegetables, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the stewpan.
Lay the cutlets on them, and pour in sufficient stock to come half way up the cutlets.
Cover them with buttered paper, and put them on a slow fire to simmer gently until tender.
Then put them on a baking-tin in the oven to brown.
Strain the stock and boil it with a half-pint more to a strong glaze.
Dish the _grenadines_ on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour a little glaze over each, and put the green peas in the middle.
Mayonnaise of Fowl.
Cold Entrée for Suppers.
_Ingredients_--2 fowls. ½ pint of _mayonnaise_ sauce. A cucumber. 4 hard-boiled eggs. 1 pint of aspic jelly. A beetroot.
_Method._--Boil the fowls and cut them into neat joints.
Put them in a dish in a circle, the one leaning on the other.
Place in the middle a bunch of endive, and coat the pieces of chicken with _mayonnaise_ sauce.
Cut the hard-boiled eggs in quarters, and lay them round the chicken with slices of cucumber and beetroot, and garnish with a border of chopped aspic.
Veal Cutlets.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of veal cutlet. Egg and bread-crumbs. 3 oz. of clarified butter. ½ oz. of flour. ½ pint of nice stock. Some mashed potatoes.
_Method._--Beat the cutlet well to break the fibre of the meat, and then cut it into neat oval or round shapes.
Brush them with the egg and cover them with fine bread-crumbs.
Fry them in a cutlet-pan in the butter.
When they are cooked pour some of the butter from the pan.
Stir in the flour smoothly.
Pour in the stock, and cook well.
Add pepper and salt and a few drops of lemon juice.
Dish the cutlets in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Strain the gravy round them, and put some nice little rolls of bacon in the middle.
To cook the bacon, cut it in thin slices; roll them, and put them on a skewer, they may be either toasted or baked.
Veal Cutlets à l'Italienne.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of fillet of veal. Cut into neat cutlets. 2 oz. of butter. Egg and bread-crumbs. Some carrot and turnip, cut in fancy shapes and boiled. ½ pint of Italian sauce.
_Method._--Egg and bread-crumb the cutlets and fry them in the butter.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour Italian sauce over, and put the vegetables in the middle.
Make the Italian sauce with the butter the cutlets are fried in.
Fillets of Chicken.
_Ingredients_--Some little fillets of chicken cut from the breast. Some streaky bacon. ½ pint of _Béchamel_ sauce, made with white stock. Some mashed potatoes.
_Method._--Lay the fillet on a greased baking-tin.
Cover with buttered paper and put them into a moderate oven for ten or fifteen minutes.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour the sauce over and put little rolls of nicely cooked bacon in the middle.
To cook the bacon, cut it into very thin strips and roll them, run a skewer through, and toast them before the fire.
Chicken à la Marengo.
_Ingredients_--1 chicken. 1½ pint of second stock. 3 tomatoes. 1 piece of carrot, turnip, and onion. 1 sprig of parsley, thyme, marjoram. 2 oz. of butter. 1 oz. of flour. A few drops of lemon juice.
_Method._--Cut the chicken into neat joints and fry them in the butter.
Then remove them and fry the vegetables.
Add the flour and fry that.
Then pour in the stock; stir and boil for three minutes.
Then put in the chicken and the tomato, sliced.
Simmer for about thirty minutes, until the chicken is quite tender.
Then put the chicken on to an _entrée_ dish.
Add some lemon juice to the gravy, and strain over it.
Chicken à la Cardinal.
_Ingredients_--1 chicken. 1½ pint of _Béchamel_ sauce. 4 ripe tomatoes.
_Method._--Cut the chicken into joints and put them in a stewpan with the sauce and tomatoes, sliced.
Simmer gently until the chicken is quite tender.
Then place them on a hot _entrée_ dish and strain the sauce over them.
Kidneys and Mushrooms.
_Ingredients_--2 dozen medium sized mushrooms. 6 sheep's kidneys. 1 pint of second stock. 1 oz. of butter. 1 oz. of flour. 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. A few drops of lemon juice.
_Method._--Peel the mushrooms, cut off the stalks, and wash them.
Wipe the kidneys and slice them, put them in a stewpan with the stock and mushrooms.
Simmer them gently for thirty minutes or more, until quite tender.
Mix the butter and flour very smoothly, stir them in and boil for about three minutes.
Add the cream and let it boil, season to taste, and squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice.
Curried Rabbit.
_Ingredients_--1 apple. 1 onion. 2 dessertspoonfuls of curry powder. 1½ pint of second stock. 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. 2 oz. of butter. 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour. Salt. A few drops of lemon juice.
_Method._--Cut the rabbit into neat joints and fry them in the butter.
Then remove them and fry the onion and apple, sliced.
Mix the curry powder and flour smoothly with the stock.
Put it into a stewpan; stir and boil three minutes.
Put in the rabbit and add the onion and apple, which should be rubbed through a hair sieve.
Simmer gently for thirty minutes or more, until the rabbit is tender.
Add the cream and let it boil in the sauce.
Squeeze in the lemon juice and add salt.
If a dry curry is liked, remove the rabbit when tender, and boil and reduce the sauce to half the quantity, leaving only sufficient to coat the pieces of rabbit well.
Serve nicely cooked rice with the curry (_see_ Rice for Curry).
Curried Chicken.
Make according to the directions in the preceding recipe, using white stock or boiled milk.
Mutton Cutlets à la Milanaise.