The Skilful Cook A Practical Manual of Modern Experience
Chapter 14
Mix with the egg, well beaten, and, if necessary, a little milk; the mixture must be very stiff.
Put it in little rough heaps on a greased baking-tin.
Bake in a quick oven for fifteen minutes.
Gingerbread Cakes.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of flour. 6 oz. of butter, lard, or dripping. 1 oz. of ground ginger. 4 oz. of moist sugar. ¾ lb. of treacle.
_Method._--Put the sugar, treacle, and fat into a saucepan, and melt them.
Put the flour and ginger into a basin.
Mix with the other ingredients.
Roll out, and cut into small cakes.
Bake on a greased baking-tin, in a slow oven, for ten or fifteen minutes.
Rice Buns.
_Ingredients_--¼ lb. of ground rice. ¼ lb. of castor sugar. 2 oz. of butter. 1 egg. ½ a teaspoonful of baking powder. A little flavouring essence.
_Method._--Beat the butter to a cream with the sugar.
Then add the eggs, well beaten, and stir in the ground rice.
Partly fill little greased patty-pans with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour.
Galettes.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of Vienna flour. 1 lb. of household flour. 1 oz. of yeast. ½ lb. of butter. 6 eggs. ½ a pint of milk. A little sugar.
_Method._--Make the milk tepid.
Then mix it smoothly with the yeast, and stir it into the household flour.
Knead it to a dough.
Rub the butter into the other flour and beat in the eggs well with the sugar.
Then knead both doughs together.
Put them to rise for about two hours.
When nicely risen, make the dough into buns.
Put them on a floured baking-sheet.
Bake in a quick oven for about ten minutes.
When nearly ready, brush over with a little white of egg to glaze them.
JELLIES AND CREAMS.
To clear Jellies.
Take a large saucepan, and see that it is perfectly clean. Put into it all the ingredients for the jelly, and the whites and shells of the eggs. The use of the whites of eggs is to clear the jelly; the shells form a filter through which to strain it. Whisk all together over a quick fire until the jelly begins to simmer; then immediately leave off stirring, and let it well boil up. The heat of the boiling jelly hardens the egg, which rises to the surface in the form of a thick scum, bringing all impurities with it. If the stirring were continued during the boiling it would prevent the scum rising properly, and the jelly would not clear.
When the jelly has well boiled up, remove it from the fire and let it stand for a few minutes till a crust is formed.
To strain it, a chair may be turned upside down, and a cloth tied firmly to its four legs. Any cloth, which is clean, and not too closely woven, will answer the purpose. Put a basin under the cloth, and pour some boiling water through it. This will make it hot, and ensure its being perfectly clean. Change the basin for a clean dry one, and pour the whole contents of the saucepan on to the cloth. The first runnings of the jelly will be cloudy, because the filter which the eggs make will not have settled in the cloth. As soon as the jelly runs slowly, and looks clear, put a clean basin under the cloth, and put the first runnings through it again, very gently, that they may not disturb the filter of egg-shells.
Strain the jelly in a warm place, out of draught. Two eggs are considered sufficient to clarify a quart of jelly, but if the eggs are small it is wise to take a third. If there is not sufficient white of egg, the jelly will not clear.
The jelly should be allowed to get nearly cold before it is put into the moulds. If it is put hot into metal moulds it is likely to become cloudy.
To make Creams.
To make a good cream, it is essential that the cream used should be double; that is, a thick cream that will whip up to a stiff froth. Beat it well with a wire whisk until it will stand on the end of it without dropping. This must be done in a cool place, especially in summer time. Cream is liable to curdle, and turn to butter, if beaten in too warm a temperature. The gelatine must be added last of all. It should be stirred in thoroughly, but quickly; it must not be too hot, or too cold, but just lukewarm. If too hot, it destroys the lightness of the cream; if too cold, it does not mix thoroughly. Pour the cream into a mould as soon as the gelatine is mixed with it, as it begins to set directly. To turn a jelly or cream out of its mould, take a basin of hot water, as hot as the hand can bear, draw the mould quickly through it, letting the water quite cover it for a second. Wipe off all the moisture immediately with a dry cloth. Shake the tin gently, to be sure the contents are free. Lay the dish on the open side of the mould, quickly reverse it, and draw the mould carefully away.
Strawberry Cream.
_Ingredients_--½ pint of double cream. 1 oz. of amber gelatine, or rather less than ½ oz. of the opaque. 2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar. Some strawberries. ¼ pint of milk. A few drops of cochineal.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the milk for about twenty minutes or more.
Then dissolve it by stirring it in a saucepan over the fire.
Rub sufficient strawberries through a hair sieve to make a quarter of a pint of _purée_.
Beat up the cream with the sugar.
Then add the _purée_ of fruit, and a few drops of cochineal to colour it.
Lastly stir in the melted gelatine.
Pour the cream at once into a wetted mould.
When quite set, dip it for a second or two into very hot water, and turn it on to a glass dish.
Charlotte Russe.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen sponge fingers. 1 oz. of glace cherries. ½ pint of double cream. ½ oz. of amber gelatine melted in a little milk, or less than ¼ oz. of the opaque. 2 dessertspoonfuls of castor sugar. A few drops of essence of vanilla, or other flavouring.
_Method._--First put the gelatine to soak in a little milk.
Then cut the cherries in halves, and place them in a circle round the bottom of a plain round tin, with the cut side uppermost.
Divide the sponge fingers, lengthwise, without breaking them, and trim each one at the side, top, and bottom neatly.
Then line the tin with them, placing them on the top of the cherries, with the brown side next the tin; they should be put close together, and the last should serve as a wedge to keep the others in place.
Beat up the cream stiffly with the sugar.
Add the vanilla flavouring and the melted gelatine. This must be neither too hot nor too cold.
Stir it thoroughly, but quickly, into the cream, and pour at once into the prepared tin.
When set, dip the bottom of the tin into hot water for a second or two, and turn it carefully on to a glass dish.
Custard Cream.
_Ingredients_--½ pint of double cream. 3 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar. 1 oz. of amber gelatine, or less than ½ of the opaque. 1 whole egg. 3 yolks. ½ pint of hot milk. A few drops of vanilla or other essence.
_Method._--Put the gelatine to soak in a little milk.
Then beat the eggs lightly and add them to the milk.
Strain into a jug and add the sugar.
Put the jug into a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until the custard coats the spoon; care must be taken that it does not curdle.
While the custard cools beat up the cream stiffly.
Melt the gelatine, and add it to the custard.
Flavour it, and, when sufficiently cooled, mix the custard and cream thoroughly together.
Pour at once into a wetted mould.
Bohemian Cream.
_Ingredients_--½ pint of sweet jelly of any kind. ½ pint of double cream.
_Method._--Beat the cream stiffly.
Mix with it the jelly, which should be melted, but cold.
Pour into a wetted mould.
Wine Jelly.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. packet of either Nelson's or Swinbourne's gelatine. 1 pint of water. ½ pint of sherry. ¼ to ½ lb. of lump sugar, according to taste. The juice of two lemons. The rind of one. The whites and shells of 2 large eggs.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the water with the thin rind of a lemon for three quarters of an hour, if possible.
Then add all the other ingredients.
Clarify and strain (_see_ To clear Jellies).
When quite cold pour into a wetted mould.
Calf's-foot Stock.
_Ingredients_--2 calf's feet. 4 pints of water.
_Method._--Cut each foot into four pieces.
Blanch them by putting them in cold water and bringing them to the boil.
Throw the water away, and well wash the feet.
Put them into a saucepan, with four pints of water, and boil gently for five hours.
Then strain the stock from the bones, and set it aside until the next day.
The fat must then be carefully removed, or the stock will not clear.
To turn this into Calf's-foot Jelly, add--
Half a pint of white wine. The rind of 2 and the juice of 4 lemons. ¾ lb. of lump sugar. The whites and shells of 4 eggs. Clarify and strain (_see_ To clear Jellies).
Pineapple Jelly.
_Ingredients_--1 pineapple. 1 oz. packet of gelatine. 1 pint of water. ¼ lb. of lump sugar. The thin rind of 1 lemon, and the juice of 2. The whites and shells of 2 large eggs.
_Method._--First soak the gelatine in the water.
Cut up the pineapple and bruise it in a mortar.
Add it, and all the other ingredients, to the gelatine.
Then clarify (_see_ To clear Jellies).
Note.--The Grated Pineapple, sold in tins, is excellent for jellies or creams.
Aspic Jelly.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. packet of gelatine. 1 pint of good stock. ¼ pint of taragon vinegar. ¼ pint of sherry. A small carrot, turnip, and onion. A sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram. 2 bay leaves. 3 cloves. 1 dozen peppercorns. A piece of celery. A blade of mace. A clove of garlic. 1 shalot. The whites and shells of 2 large eggs. Salt to taste.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the stock.
Then add all the other ingredients and clarify (_see_ To clear Jellies).
Claret Jelly.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. packet of gelatine. ½ pint of water. 1 pint of claret. ½ lb. of lump sugar. A few drops of cochineal.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the water.
Add the sugar, and stir over the fire until dissolved.
Pour in the wine, and colour with cochineal.
Strain into a wetted mould.
When firm, dip into hot water for a second or two, and turn on to a glass dish.
Note.--This jelly is not clarified. Cake is usually served with claret jelly.
Orange Jelly.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen oranges. 1 lemon. 2 pints of water. 1 oz. packet and a half of Swinbourne's or Nelson's opaque gelatine (in summer two packets). ½ lb. of lump sugar.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the water with the thin rind of one lemon and three oranges.
Add the sugar; stir over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved.
Add the juice of the twelve oranges.
Let the jelly boil up, and then strain into a wetted mould.
When firm, dip into hot water for a second or two, and turn on to a glass dish.
Note.--This jelly is not clarified.
Strawberry Jelly.
_Ingredients_--1 quart of strawberries. ½ lb. of lump sugar. Juice of one lemon. 1½ oz. of Swinbourne's or Nelson's opaque gelatine. ½ pint of cold water. ½ pint of boiling water. The whites and shells of 2 large eggs.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the cold water.
Mash the strawberries to a pulp.
Add them to the gelatine with the sugar and lemon juice.
Pour the boiling water over.
Then put all the ingredients into a saucepan.
Add to them the whites and shells of the eggs, and clarify and strain (_see_ To clear Jellies).
Pour into a wetted mould, and set in a cool place until firm.
To turn it out, dip the tin into very hot water for a second or two, and turn it carefully on to a glass dish.
Orange Cream.
_Ingredients_--1 pint of double cream. 4 oranges. 4 oz. of sugar. 1 oz. packet of gelatine. 2 whole eggs. Yolks of 4 eggs. 1 pint of milk.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in a ¼ pint of milk with the thin rind of one orange.
Strain the juice of the oranges into a cup.
Beat the eggs, and yolks of eggs, with the milk.
Strain into a jug, and add the sugar.
Put the jug to stand in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until the custard coats the spoon.
Melt the gelatine and add it to the custard.
Whip up the cream stiffly, and add to it the orange juice.
When the custard is cool, beat it into the cream, and pour at once into a wetted mould.
If liked, it may be put into a border mould, and served with whipped cream in the middle.
Blancmange.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. packet of Swinbourne's isinglass. 1 pint of milk. 1 pint of cream. 3 or 4 oz. castor sugar. Flavouring essence.
_Method._--Soak the isinglass in the milk; add the sugar and stir over the fire until both are dissolved.
Then pour in the cream; stir occasionally until cold.
Add the flavouring essence and pour it into a wetted mould.
Note.--A _blancmange_ may be made economically by using less cream and more milk, or using milk only. If it is not stirred until cold, the cream and milk will separate.
Vanilla Cream.
Make a thick cream as for Charlotte Russe, and flavour with vanilla.
Gâteau aux Pommes.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. apples. 3 oz. moist sugar. 1 lemon. ½ oz. packet of Swinbourne's or Nelson's gelatine. ½ pint of water. A few drops of cochineal.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in half the water.
Wash and slice the apples.
Put them in a stewpan with the sugar and thin lemon rind and juice and remainder of the water.
Stew until soft, then rub through a _hair_ sieve.
Melt the gelatine; mix it thoroughly with the apples.
Colour with cochineal, and pour the mixture into a wetted mould.
Note.--This sweet looks very nice when it is made in a border mould. It is then served with whipped cream or white of egg in the middle.
Peaches, prunes, or any suitable fruit may be substituted for the apples.
Compote of Peaches.
_Ingredients_--10 oz. of sugar. 1 pint of water. 1 dozen peaches. ½ pint of whipped cream.
_Method._--Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes.
Pare the peaches and simmer for about twenty minutes.
Remove carefully and place on a glass dish.
Reduce the syrup and pour over them.
When cold, cover with whipped cream.
Almond Bavarian Cream.
_Ingredients_--1 pint of double cream. ½ lb. of sweet almonds. 1 or 2 drops of essence of almonds. 4 oz. of castor sugar. ¾ of an ounce packet of gelatine. 3 eggs. ¾ of a pint of milk.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the milk.
Blanch and pound the almonds, adding a few drops of orange-flower water to keep them from oiling.
Beat the eggs and milk lightly together, and strain into a jug.
Add to them the sugar and almonds.
Put the jug into a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until the custard coats the spoon.
Melt the gelatine, and add it to the custard.
Whip the cream to a stiff froth, and drop in the almond essence.
When the custard is cool, stir it into the cream.
Mix them well together, and pour into a wetted mould.
Stone Cream.
_Ingredients_--1 pint of double cream. 2 wineglasses of sherry. Juice of a lemon. ¼ lb. of castor sugar. 1 gill of milk. 1 oz. of Nelson's or Swinbourne's opaque gelatine. A little almond flavouring.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the milk with the sugar.
Beat the cream up stiffly.
Melt the gelatine; add to it the sherry, lemon juice, and flavouring.
Stir it quickly into the beaten cream.
Pour it into a wetted mould.
When set, dip it into very hot water for a second, and turn it carefully on to a glass dish.
Lemon Sponge.
_Ingredients_--½ oz. packet of gelatine. 1 pint of cold water. ½ lb. of lump sugar. The thin rind and juice of two lemons. The whites of 3 eggs.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the water with the rind of the lemon for one hour.
Add the sugar and dissolve it over the fire.
Stir and simmer it for a few minutes.
Strain into a basin and add the lemon juice.
When it begins to set, beat in the whites of the eggs, whipped to a very stiff froth.
Whisk until the whole mixture is light and spongy.
Then heap it on a glass dish.
A little of it may be coloured a pale pink with cochineal; and as a decoration, a few pistachio kernels, blanched and chopped, can be sprinkled over the sponge.
Floating Island.
_Ingredients_--A round sponge-cake. 1 pint of custard (_see_ Boiled Custard). Red jam. The whites of two eggs. 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar. Some chopped pistachio kernels. Some hundreds and thousands.
_Method._--Cut the cake horizontally in slices.
Spread them with jam.
Place them on each other in the form of the cake, and spread the top with jam.
Put the cake on a glass dish, and pour the custard over.
Whip the whites of the eggs stiffly with the sugar, and heap on the top of the cake.
Decorate with chopped pistachios and hundreds and thousands.
Maraschino Cream.
_Ingredients_--3 yolks of eggs. 1 white. ½ pint of milk. ½ pint of whipped double cream. 2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar. 1 oz. of amber gelatine, or ½ oz. of the opaque, melted in a little milk. 1 small glass of maraschino.
_Method._--Make the eggs and milk into a custard (_see_ Boiled Custard).
Add to it the sugar and melted gelatine.
When it has cooled, mix it with the cream.
Add the maraschino and pour into a wetted mould previously decorated with a little bright fruit.
When set, dip into hot water for a second or two, and turn it on to a glass dish.
Pistachio Cream.
_Ingredients_--½ pint of whipped double cream. ½ oz. of amber gelatine, or less than ¼ oz. of the opaque, melted in a little milk. 1 oz. of castor sugar. 2 oz. of pistachio kernels blanched. A few drops of vanilla.
_Method._--Pound the pistachios in a mortar, and rub them through a sieve.
Then mix them with the cream.
Add a few drops of vanilla, the sugar, and, last of all, the melted gelatine.
Pour it into a wetted mould.
When set, dip it into hot water for a second or two, and turn carefully on to a glass dish.
Croquant of Oranges.
_Ingredients_--9 or 10 oranges. ½ teacupful of melted sweet jelly. A few pistachio kernels, blanched and chopped. ½ pint of whipped double cream. ½ oz. of amber gelatine, or less than ¼ oz. of the opaque, melted in a little milk. 2 oz. of castor sugar.
_Method._--Peel and divide six oranges into sections, and carefully remove the white skins.
Dip each piece into the jelly, and line a plain round charlotte Russe tin with them.
Place them to form a star in the bottom of the mould, and fill up any spaces with the chopped pistachio kernels.
Add the juice of three oranges to the whipped cream.
Mix in the sugar, and add, last of all, the melted gelatine.
Pour the cream into the tin.
When set, dip the tin in hot water to loosen the pieces of orange, and then turn carefully on to a glass or silver dish.
Chartreuse de Fruit.
_Ingredients_--Various fruits, such as strawberries, greengages, cherries, peaches, &c. Some strawberry or other cream. ½ teacupful of sweet jelly, melted.
_Method._--Line a plain charlotte Russe mould tastefully with slices of the different fruits, dipping each piece in the melted jelly.
Then pour in a strawberry or any other cream (_see_ Strawberry Cream).
When set, dip the mould into very hot water for a second or two to loosen the fruit, and then turn them on to a glass or silver dish.
Strawberry Charlotte.
_Ingredients_--Some fine ripe strawberries. Some pistachio kernels, blanched and chopped. ½ teacupful of melted sweet jelly. Some strawberry cream.
_Method._--Line a Charlotte Russe mould tastefully with the strawberries cut in half, dipping them in the jelly, and laying them in the tin with the cut side downwards.
Fill the spaces with the pistachios.
When the strawberries are quite firm, pour in some strawberry cream (_see_ Strawberry Cream).
When set, dip into very hot water for a second or two to loosen the fruit, and turn on to a glass or silver dish.
Tipsy Cake.
_Ingredients_--1 large sponge cake. 1 wineglass of sherry. 1 wineglass of brandy. 1 pint custard (_see_ Boiled Custard). Some blanched almonds.
_Method._--Put the cake on a glass dish.
Soak it with the sherry and brandy.
Pour over the custard, and stick blanched almonds well over it.
Trifle.
_Ingredients_--1 Savoy cake. 1 pint of double cream. 1 pint of rich custard (_see_ Boiled Custard). Some strawberry or other jam. 1 wineglass of sherry. 1 wineglass of brandy. ½ lb. of macaroons. 1 oz. of castor sugar. 6 sponge cakes.
_Method._--Cut the cake into slices an inch thick.
Lay them on the bottom of a glass dish.
Spread them with jam.
Lay the macaroons on them.
Cover them with sponge cakes.
Soak them with the sherry and brandy, and cover with the custard.
Whip the cream very stiffly with the sugar.
Drain it on a sieve.
Before serving, heap the whip on the top of the trifle.
Decorate it with chopped pistachios, and hundreds and thousands.
Apple Flummery.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of apples. The rind and juice of a small lemon. 5 oz. of sugar. ¼ pint of water. ½ oz. packet of Nelson's or Swinbourn's gelatine. ½ pint of cream. Cochineal.
_Method._--Cut up the apples, and stew them with the sugar, lemon, and water, until tender.
Rub them through a hair sieve.
While the apples are cooking, soak the gelatine in the cream.
Then stir over the fire until the gelatine is quite dissolved.
Add the cream and gelatine to the apple pulp, and beat all well together.
Colour with cochineal, and pour into a wetted mould.
When firm, dip for a second or two into very hot water, and then turn on to a glass dish.
Apple Cream.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of apples. ¼ lb. of sugar. 1 glass of port wine. The rind of a lemon. ¼ pint of water. ½ pint of cream or milk. Cochineal.
_Method._--Wash the apples, and cut them into pieces.
Put them into a stewpan with the lemon rind, sugar, wine, and water.
Stew gently until they are quite tender.