CHAPTER VIII.

MONGOLIA--_continued_.

Marshes--Camels dislike water--Chinese caravan--Travellers' tales--Taryagi--Looking for cattle in the dark-- Butyn-tala--An addition to our party--Russian courier-- Water-fowl--Bad water--Kicking camel--Pass of Ulin-dhabha-- Mongols shifting quarters--Slip 'tween the cup and the lip--Mountains--The north wind--Guntu-gulu--An accident-- Medical treatment--Protuberant ears--Marmots--Ice--Dark night--Bain-ula--Living, not travelling--Charm of desert life--Young pilgrim--Grand scenery--Steep descent--Obon-- Horror of evil spirits--Mongol and Chinese notions of devils--Dread of rain--A wet encampment--Snow--The White Mountains--The Bactrian camel--Capability of enduring cold-- Job's comforters--Woods appear--The yak--Change of fuel 122