CHAPTER V.

CHAN-KIA-KOW.

Arrival at Chan-kia-kow--Focus of Trade--Mixed population-- Wealth--Mongols--Russians--Name of Kalgan--Chinese friends--Russian hospitality--Disappointment--Proposed excursion to Bain-tolochoi--Camels at last procured-- Noetzli returns to Tientsin--The pass--Mountains--Great Wall--The horse-fair--Dealers--Ox-carts--Transport of wood from Urga--Shoeing smiths--Our Russian host arrives--The "Samovar"--Tea-drinking in Russia--Change of temperature-- Elevation of Chan-kia-kow--Preparations for the desert-- Cabbages--Warm boots--Camels arrive--Leave Chan-kia-kow-- The pass--Superiority of mules, &c., over camels 72