CHAPTER IV.

PEKING TO CHAN-KIA-KOW.

Return to Tungchow--Disappointment--Priest conciliated by Russian language--Back to Peking--Negotiations--Ma-foo's peculation--Chinese honesty and knavery--Loading the caravan--Mule-litters--Leave Peking--Sha-ho--Cotton plant-- Nankow--Crowded inn--Difficult pass--Inner "great wall"-- Cha-tow--Chinese Mahommedans--Religious toleration--Christians in disfavour--Change of scene--Hwai-lai--Ruins of bridge--Bed of old river--Road traffic--Watch-towers--Chi-ming-i--Legend of monastery--the Yang-ho--Pass--Shan-shui-pu--Coal-- Suen-wha-fu--Ride to Chan-kia-kow 56