Part 3

THE following letter to the Editor of the _Weekly Magazine_, in 1772, may be regarded as originating the idea of the _Guide-Books_ to Scottish Scenery, now so numerous. It is interesting to look back upon the writer’s notions of “a New Tour,” as he calls the contemplated work, and his implied admiration of the Highlands. Sir Walter Scott had not then imparted that charm which his genius has now thrown around so many localities of his native land, still, as the writer informs us, it had become, even then, “fashionable among the English to make a tour into Scotland.”

Jan. 27, 1772.

Sir—It is now become fashionable among the English to make a tour into Scotland for some few weeks or months; and there is a moral certainty of the fashion increasing, as the foolish prejudices against the country and its inhabitants daily decrease. But it is to be regretted, that an intelligent curious traveller from England has no proper helps to assist him; so that it often happens, that many return without having seen one third of what is most curious in the country, although, perhaps, they have passed within some few hours ride, or rather some few yards, of such articles of importance; owing to the want of proper information, or too great hurry in making the survey.

To remedy this, it is proposed, that a new tour through Scotland be published, in two pocket-volumes, divided into a number of little circuits of some few days ride, which may be laid down from the map. This work, if properly executed, will be useful to the country in general, to the traveller in particular, and advantageous to its author.

Nothing sets off a work of this kind more than proper plates. As they take time to contract and engrave, these may be going on, while a ride is performing in May from Edinburgh to Berwick, up to Kelso, Melrose, Jedburgh, Hawick, Langholm, Moffat; back to Edinburgh. At Moffat, that grand fall of water, the _Gray Mare’s Tail_, and the curious loch it issues from, are worth notice. The latter is called _Loch-Skeen_, and is of a pretty large extent; in the midst of which is an island, where a pair of eagles nestle every year. This loch is clear on one side, where trouts, beautifully speckled, are to be had, and muddy on the other, where black trouts take up their abode.

Then a ride in the end of June, or beginning of July, to Dumfries, Drumlanrig, Kirkcudbright, Air, Saltcoats, Irvine, Greenock, Paisley, Glasgow, Hamilton, Linlithgow; back to Edinburgh.

In the end of August, or beginning of September, to Hopeton, Borrowstounness, Falkirk, Carron, the Canal, Stirling, Alloa, Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, Dunybristle, Kinghorn; back to Edinburgh.

Next year, in May, to Kinghorn, coast-side to St Andrew’s, Cupar, Falkland, Abernethie, Perth, Scoon, Carse of Gowrie, Dundee, coast-side to Inverness, making little excursions from the coast into the country, to remark what is curious, as Forfar, Glammis, Brechin, &c.

Then let the curious traveller take a proper time to journey into Rosshire, Sutherland, and Caithness, to John o’ Groat’s House. If he thinks fit to stretch his tour into Orkney and Zetland, he will find many particulars worthy of observation. In returning, let him visit the Weem, Blair of Athol, Dunkeld, Taymouth, Inverary, Loch-Lomond, &c.

The traveller will find his curiosity particularly gratified in traversing the Highlands of Scotland. Icolmkill, though visited by many, and though there are some accounts of it, with drawings, both in manuscript and in print, ought not to be omitted.—Roslin and Hawthornden should by no means be overlooked.

Plates may be copied from Sletzer’s _Theatrum_ _Scotiæ_, Gordon’s _Itinerarium Septentrionale_, and the Master of Elphinston’s plates of Edinburgh. Keith’s Map of the Frith of Forth, and Bryce’s Map of the north coast of Britain, from Row Stoir of Assynt to Wick in Caithness, &c., may prove very useful; as may Straloch’s Maps, though not easily to be had.

But there are many noble find landscapes, which I have not seen any draught of, as from Drummond Castle, the top of the hill of Myat, one of the _Montes Ocelli_, from Stirling-castle, from Arthur-seat, Hopeton-house, Inveresk, &c. If the author has a knowledge in drawing, these may be easily done.

A map of Scotland prefixed to this work, with a preliminary discourse, giving a concise, geographical description of the country, of its monarchy, the changes made, first, by the union of the two crowns, usurpation of Cromwell, then by the restoration, revolution, and union of the two kingdoms, could not fail to be acceptable to the inquisitive and candid reader.

But the greatest care should be taken to stand clear of all party-work, either in religion or politics, because such peculiarities will disgust some readers, and thereby effectually condemn the work, be its merit otherwise ever so great.

Many helps may be had to compile such an useful and entertaining performance: such as Maitland’s History of Scotland; his History of Edinburgh; Guthrie’s History of Scotland; Gordon’s Itinerarium Septentrionale; Chamberlain’s Present State; The Tour through Britain, vol. 4; Martin’s History of the Isles; Macaulay’s ditto of St Kilda; Sacheverell’s Voyage to Icolmkill; History of Orkney, now to be published by Coke; Sibbald’s History of Fife; Sir John Dalrymple’s Late Memoirs; Moyes’s Tour; Pennant’s Tour, &c.

One that has made some trips into the Highlands of Scotland, depictures them in the following manner:

“Let others think and rove as they please; for my own part, I look upon the Highlands of Scotland as the most delightful country in the world during the summer-season: where one cannot fail to be seized with a kind of religious veneration, when viewing, with an heedful eye, the high hills and lofty mountains, whose summits are in the clouds, and their sides covered over with the verdant grass, the flowery heath in its purple glow, or the tall trees, particularly the towering firs, waving their tops in the heavens; the awful rocks hanging over the heads of the travellers, and threatening, as it were, to tumble down upon them; the fine natural falls of water here and there, cascading with a mighty, noisy, and resounding rush; the large extended lakes, enriched with innumerable finny tribes of different kinds, and their grassy banks forming beautifully-spangled lawns; and sometimes the curling waves, or the roaring billows, of the majestic and far sounding-ocean.

“What a delightful jaunt is it to move, for some miles together, through a wood of the fragrant birch, bending down its leaves to regale the nose of the traveller. The beauties of a country-seat, wood and water, are here in the greatest abundance. But if we pass from the inanimate to the animate part of the creation, exhibited here in a luxuriant valley, the sylvan scene is completed.

“The gentleman can beat up all kinds of game; the deer and the roe bounding up and down; the partridge, the tarmachan, the muir-fowl, the wood-cock, the black-cock, and the heath-hen, and many others I cannot name, whirling through the air, or whidding up and down upon the ground; the wild-goose, gagling, and the wild-duck quack-quaking, in their watery regions, or in their soaring flights.

“The feathered choir vie with one another to regale the ear of the listening traveller, hopping from leafy spray to trembling twig, swelling their throats, and warbling out their lays in a wild variety of harmonious notes.

“The primitive simplicity and the open hospitality of the natives, are past all description, though set off, either in the flowers of the orator, or in the flash of the poet, enough to make the citizen, the court-bred gentleman, and the delicate lady, stand amazed, and even to furnish them with a new lesson in life. Common decency and natural good manners are daily to be seen amongst the vulgar in the Highlands of Scotland; and their conduct is marked with a penetrating sagacity. Their apparent devotion at public worship is extremely remarkable and affecting, so as to draw tears of joy and admiration from the eyes of a stranger!”

THE REVEREND PATRICK GALLOWAY TO KING JAMES VI.

7th APRIL, 1607.

Pleas your Gratious Maiestye,

This prasent is to giwe your maiestye most hartelye thanks for all your maiestyes fauors touards me, speciallye for the constant continuance of your maiestyes loue with me, as it vas vount, assuring your maiestye you haue the man vho neuer vas nor shall, Godwilling, be found alterable in his duetifull affection to serue your maiestye, as becomes him. If it fall out that I suspend my judgment in something is proponed to me affhand, till I got fuller resolution both to speak and to stand honestlye to that vhiche I speak assuredlye, it arryses of no vnsound and altered affection touard your maiestyes seruice, bot onlye off laik of foreinforming, vhiche geues light and curage to men to doe; and for the clearing of this point I referre my self to my Lord of Dunbars testification, who can and will giue iust information to your maiestye of it. I heare that your maiestye is ressolued to haue the ministree of Edinburgh plainted, the estate vhereof is more miserable and desolat nor ony toune or kirk in Scotland; and, whiche is vorse, the pulpittis ar sometymes possessed with yong people and persones vnmeete for that place, vhiche bringis the Gosple and ministree into a contempt and will ouerturne all in end if it be not remeadit. The planting of it will doe great good to all the countrey, and help to amend mony thinges amisse, and procure great forderance of your maiestyes seruice and quyat of this kirk, provyding the persones be good teachers, peaceably disposed, and weyll affected. I heare also that your maiestye is somequhat moued to haue me placed there; bot, Ser, beleefe me, in truth I am not for it, in respect of mony thinges in thame, and more in me vhiche can not concurre weyll to make vp so good manage betuix vs. I need not to vse mony vordes with your maiestye who knoues vs both alsueyll as our selfis doe. I mynd, Godwilling, to teache euery Sabboth, where euer I be, so long as I may, and to be readye in most duetifull maner to concurre in your maiestyes seruice, as I salbe employed, bot to take on the charge of a particular flock, and such are flock, my heart cannot yeeld, and I hope your maiestye sall not burden me with it. The bearer hereof, Mr Peter Heuat,[22] is ane honest man, and your maiestye may reiose in the planting of him, being ane of your maiestyes owne plantation there, and ansuring to your maiestyes expectation of him in all pointis, and can truely and sufficiently informe your maiestye of all particulars here; bot he is not, as he deserues, and as your maiestye appointed for his encuragement, ansured of his small pension assigned to him, vhiche is pitie, and wald be helped to put difference betuix those that are your maiesties owne men and others. If Mr Jhone Hall,[23] ane honest man, and ane of your maiestyes owne planting also, and he war remoued, I wat not vhat suld become of Edinburgh, your maiestyes cheefe toune her. Bot leafing those particulars, appardone me, Ser, to speak one word of the common cause. Ser, at Ligbqubo, my Lord of Dunbar did good seruice to your maiestye, and by God blissing his vyse and canny forme of doing, he prevailed so as I neuer sawe ane more peaceable and ordourlye assembly in my tyme, bothe in the progress and end, as it was, and therefore was admired and praised in all the publique sermones and privat speaches. The hope of taking order with Papists and quyating of distraction among ourselves be constant moderation led all menn joyfullie to your maiestys vay, and if that course selected there be prosequute your maiestey may assure yourself of peace here during our dayes, that is, if Papistis can be keeped under be your maiestys auctorite soundly used here, and the kirk censures be suffered to have their awne place against thame, our pace will grow, ill tongues wilbe silenced, and all things will go calmely to your maiestys contentment. Your maiestys glory hath bene, and is the professing and manteaning of the Gospel of Jesus Christ, and all the vorld sees your maiestys multiplyed preferments and preservations to aryse of the presence of Jesus, the Lord of the Gosple with you, and to tend to the preservatioun and advancement of it by your maiestys preservation and advancement, tuo thinges inseparably united sense your maiesty hade being. Lat thame therefor be computed your enemyes that will not conforme thame selfis to it, and God sall continue his blessing with your maiesty, and croune you with an incorruptible croune of Glory in the end. So, most humblye taking my leefe I commend your maiestys persone, familye, kingdome and affaris to the blessing of God. From Edinburgh this 7 of Aprle 1607.

Your maiestys awn & most humble

& affectionate Servitour

Mr P. GALLOWEY.

[The Rev, Patrick Galloway died one of the ministers of Edinburgh in 1624. He wrote a history of his own times, the MS. of which was in possession of Dr Urquhart of Aberdeen in the beginning of last century. It unfortunately cannot now be traced. He was father of the first Lord Dunkeld.]

MINUTES OF IRVINE PRESBYTERY.

[Concluded from our last.]

A visitation of the kirk of Kilmaurs, 24th Aug., 1649.—The Laird of Craig an elder complains that they had not gotten the communion 3 years bygone, and generally complains of the inefficiency of their minister, Mr Wm. Crooks—other elders agree as to this, and Mr William offers to allow the Presbytery “to disposit in the matter of stipend” in order to obtain a colleague. The Elders approve of this, and it is recommended to proceed therewith. A Presbyterial visitation of Cumbraes ordered, the minister being often absent from meetings, and no references from that island, and that it should take place as soon as the men came home from the fishing.

24th Sep., 1649.—The Presbytery propose that so long as Mr Jas. Clandening remained at Largs, he shall receive 1,000 merks per annum, and a person appointed to uplift the stipend for that purpose. The Presbytery refer the case to the Synod for their judgement, viz., what should be done with those that make a mock of their repentance daily and never amend.

19th Oct., 1649.—Mr James Ferguson did produce a letter from the committee of estates, wherein it was earnestly recommended to the Presbytery that they would put in execution with all possible diligence the act of Parliament concerning the poor, and restraining of vagabonds and sturdy beggars within the bounds of the Presbytery; because many of the bretheren are absent it is referred to next meeting.

1st Nov., 1649.—The Presbytery direct a list of the poor in every parish to be lifted. That all sturdy beggars and vagrants remove to their own parishes and particular places where they were born, betwixt and the 15th Nov., and if they fail they will be put into the hands of the civil magistrate, _and the resetters_ to pay 5 Lib toties quoties. The Presbytery approve of the overture of setting up of manufactories within the burghs of the shyre, and does recommend it to Mr Alex. Nisbet and Mr Wm. Caldwell to speak to the town of Irvine for setting up ane among them.—The Presbytery likewise approves the overture of said Committee of keeping the poor of every parish within themselves, until the time that the way of their maintenance be agreed upon according to the act of Parliament.

10th Nov., 1649.—Compeared Craig, younger, a Bailie of the town of Irvine, and Robert Brown, clerk to the town, shews they are willing to nominate Mr Alex. Nisbet to the stipend that Mr Hew M‘Kale had, in so far as concerned the titular. The Presbytery having enquired of them whether or no they had a purpose to detract any thing off the 900 merks that were in use of payment to give to the colleague, and of the four score pounds that Mr Hugh M‘Kaile had by and attour the six chalder victual and ane half. They answered that they could not answer the Presbytery in these particulars, whereupon they were appointed to bring a peremptory answer next day with the particulars. It is further appointed that the overture agreed upon by the Presbytery shall be offered to my Lord Eglinton, and to my Lord Montgomerie, concerning change and alteration to be made in these parishes, that they have interest in, that if they do assent thereto they give in their answer this day fifteen days, and if they dissent that they give reasons thereof, that the Presbytery may cognosce upon them, and after the hearing of the reasons, the Presbytery will go on to conclude and determine as _they think equitable and fit_.

18th Dec, 1649.—Lord Eglinton and other heritors of parishes proposed to be disjoined, objected to it on various grounds, but Lord Eglinton “agreed to annex Perseton to Irvine, because as his Lordship did allege it _was annexed_ of old.” Lord Eglinton does further dissent, That any of his lands within the barony of Eglinton, for the present in Kilwinning, be annexed to Irvine, because they did not pay tythes in the time of popery.

25th Dec, 1649.—The report of the brethren who were appointed to speak to the several titulars and heritors for competence. Lord Eglinton had answered, He “had gotten no other answer except this:—These kirks are already in a tolerable condition for maintenance, and that he had bought his tythes dear, and so could not be bound to give any more.”

Compeared the Provost and Bailie of Irvine, who promised, if Dreghorn was annexed to Irvine, they would do their utmost for a competence to the colleague, &c. Lord Eglinton declared, That if the Presbytery would condescend to the annexation of Perston to Irvine, he would be content to give the 24 bolls of victual that now he pays to Perston to make up the competence to Irvine, and if this was not agreed to, he would make no offer at all.

PROCEEDINGS IN THE CASE OF ORDINARY DELINQUENTS.

9th Dec, 1646.—John Armour, _suspect_ of adultery, having got his first admonition for his contumacy, having compeared, the Presbytery having dealt with him a long time to bring him to remorse and confession, stood still to his denial that he ever had carnal dealings with Isobel Auld, who fathered her child upon him. The Presbytery finding that he was hardening his heart, did, notwithstanding his denial, ordain for these reasons: 1st, Because he had carried himself scandalously with the said Isobel Auld, after they had been inhibit by the session of Dreghorn. 2dly, Because of his insolence to the session. 3dly, Because of his disobedience to the Presbytery: That he should stand the three following Lord’s days in sackcloth, and in case he were disobedient to go on with the public admonition.

7th April, 1647.—Charles Hall in Newmills, suspect of adultery with ane Isobell Moore, the scandal being pregnant and flagrant through the whole parish, &c., which he denied, ordains that the said Charles should purge himself solemnly by oath before the congregation.

15th June, 1647.—The brethren of the Presbytery having heard the relation of Mr Wm. Russel, that ane of his parishioners, called John Bryden, that he had confessed in the session that he had called his minister’s doctrine dust and grey mould, appoints him to be brought before the Presbytery next day.

29th June, 1647.—Mr James Ferguson being asked anent the satisfaction of Isobel Allen, he answered that she continues still in her wickedness, and that they were dealing with the Erle of Eglinton to banish her the parish.

John Bryden in Kilbirnie, being summoned for calling his minister’s doctrine dust and grey mould appeared, and ingeniously confessed his fault. The Presbytery considering how prejudicial such speeches were to the whole ministry, after mature deliberation, does ordain that first upon his knees he make a confession of his fault before the Presbytery, and after he go to his own congregation, and there in the public place of repentance make are acknowledgment of his fault likewise, and Mr Hugh M‘Kaile to go to Kilbirnie and receive him.

29th June, 1647.—James Wallace in the parish of the new kirk, for over nights drinking, is appointed to be cited _pro secundo_.

27th July. 1647.—Thomas Stevenstone in Dunlop, for making ane promise of marriage to ane Marion Moore, as she alleged, being summoned denied that ever he made any promise of marriage to the said Marion, and because the said Thomas was upon terms of marriage with another, he is ordained to purge himself by oath upon the day of his marriage.

17th August, 1647.—Robert Fulton and Margt. Storie, in Kilwinning, upon apparent grounds and presumption of adultery sic as this (among many others) confessed by themselves in the session of Kilwinning, that he and she would be in his barn together themselves alone, and the door being closed on them, being summoned, compeared the said Robert. Being accused of adultery, he granted his scandalous carriage with the said Margaret. Being required further to confess, after long dealing of some of the brethren that were sent out to confer with him, he would neither grant nor deny. The Presbytery seeing that his conscience was stirring within him, they threaten to take his oath. The said Robert being unwilling to give his oath, he desired time to advise and think upon it, and withal desired the Presbytery to pray for him that he might get mastery over his corruption, and in the meantime appoints Mr James Fergusson to deal with him.

7th Dec, 1647.—Katherine Miller and David Logan, Stevenston, charged with adultery, ordered to satisfy, and because they could not be kept from each other’s company, Cuninghame head to be spoken to that he may separit them, and remove! them out of the parish.

The Presbytery taking to their consideration the condition of John Armour in Dreghorn, who remains still obstinate in the denial of the fact of adultery, notwithstanding that the woman had fathered the child upon him, does find that it was to no purpose to deal any longer with him, and therefore it is appointed that the said John Armour, partly for his disobedience to the Presbytery, and partly for his scandalous carriage which he acknowledged, should stand three Lord’s days in sackcloth, and that upon the last day he purge himself solemnly before the congregation.

28th Dec, 1647.—Mr John Bell reports that Cuninghamehead has undertaken to banish David Logan the parish, in case he does not abstain from the woman’s company with whom he has fallen.

23d March, 1648.—The Laird of Shewalton appeared before the Presbytery charged with adultery, which he denied—remitted to the session of Irvine to whom he had formerly been disobedient, and had offered violence to the kirk officer.

2d May, 1648.—Euphemia Maxwell in Dalry, having brought forth a child to a trooper, whose name as she affirmed she knew not—

Note—“One of a troop of dragoons was my daddy, No wonder I’m fond of a soger laddy”—

the Presbytery conceiving that it was but a subterfuge to cloak the sin of adultery, does refer the said Euphemia to her own session, to try to the utmost that business, and whether there was any scandal between her and any other man.

3d July, 1648.—The Presbytery hearing that the Laird of Shewalton had received some wounds in a fight, upon this ground has delayed the going on with his process till his wounds be cured.