Part 9

_Orobus sylvaticus_, Bitter Vetch:--in woods and hedges near Rosstrevor.

_Pyrola rotundifolia_, Wintergreen:--on Scraba.

_Serapias longifolia γ_, a variety of White-flowered Bastard Hellebore:--on a rotten bog by a lough side near Ballinahinch.

_Teucrium Scordium_, Water Germander:--in marshy places about Granshaw.

_Valantia cruciata_, Crosswort:--among the rubbish of the Cathedral of Downpatrick.

DUBLIN.

This county offers to the tourist a complete epitome of the whole Island. In the northern district are many bogs, yet in various points the most beautiful scenery opens to the view, presenting numerous villages with highly ornamented mansions and villas scattered around; except in some few spots, trees indeed are wanting; and extensive salt marshes spread towards the coast. S. of the Liffey there is very little tillage, but to the picturesque eye this is amply compensated by the wild uncultivated heaths, rocky mountains, winding glens, and sombre landscapes that extend on every side. The ancient inhabitants were the _Voluntii_ and _Eblani_; after them came the _Danes_ and _Ostmen_; in later times the county was always within the English pale. The Irish sea bounds it on the E., on the S. Wicklow, W. Kildare, and N. Eastmeath.

BALRUDDERY, 15 m. N. of Dublin, lies on the coach road, and, though but a village in decay, may form a temporary station for the tourist to examine the northern district; or he may stop at the Man of War Inn, 2 m. nearer to the capital. Balbriggan, is a good fishing village 2 m. distant; see Cotton Manufactory; and the mineralogist may examine the veins of sparry micaceous stone, of copper, and sulphur, recently discovered. Near the sea coast is Baldungan Castle, now a mass of ruins, having been taken and dismantled by Cromwell; yet enough remains to give interest to the legendary stories connected with it. Its architecture is of the 13th century, combining the domestic with the castellated form as a baronial residence, and said by tradition to have contained a nunnery and a friary within its walls, whose religious occupants sought protection here during the intestine warfare of early times. The situation is pleasant, with a most extensive view in all directions; and there still remain two large towers at the west end with a parapet in front that covers the passage between them, the whole richly mantled with ivy: besides which many of the domestic apartments may be traced in the adjoining building, the approach to which is by staircases in the towers, leading also to the battlements. See also the Chapel and cemetery. At Grace Dieu are some remains of a Nunnery (1190). Holm Patrick has some venerable remains of a Ch. dedicated to the tutelar saint, who made this place his residence. Naul, a small village 14 m. N. from Dublin, upon the borders of Eastmeath, deserves a visit to its very beautiful glen, whose romantic rocks, cascade, and rugged caves, are finely contrasted by the picturesque ruins of its ancient castle. See the waterfall called the Roches, and ruins of Snowton Castle. Patrick's Isle has the ruins of an ancient Ch.

DUBLIN, says Sir R. Hoare, is more remarkable for its fine public buildings than for its squares or streets: the latter, though planned upon an extensive scale, want neatness and symmetry; but the former unite elegance of design and grandeur with good execution. As this is probably the first spot visited, we may observe that the view in approaching the bay is delightful. On the left is seen a rich and well-cultivated bank covered with villages and cottages, and backed by the Wicklow Mountains, towering to a considerable height and fading into the purple of distance. To the southward are seen Sea View and the Black Rock, about 4 m. from the capital, studded with white cottages for summer residents; to the north a more level country extends towards the Hill of Howth covered with villas, amongst which is the architectural _bijou_ belonging to Lord Charlemont, known by the name of Marino. On approaching the harbour the stranger is agreeably struck with the appearance of commercial activity, the range of shipping extending nearly a mile into the city, their masts resembling an immense forest. As he advances the scene becomes more interesting; but to enable him to investigate it at his leisure we shall arrange all the objects of curiosity alphabetically under their various heads.

The _Bridges_ are numerous, convenient, and the new ones elegant. Carlisle bridge forms a magnificent junction of the finest streets in the city. Essex bridge, near the Castle, is a miniature of Westminster bridge. Sarah bridge of one arch, 104 feet span, is compared to the Rialto at Venice. The quays are well built and extensive; but the river is an unpleasant object except at high water.

The _Churches_ are very numerous, besides Meeting-houses, and Catholic-chapels. Christ Church, the Priory of the Holy Trinity, is of ancient date, erected by a Danish prince in 1038, and much enlarged by the addition of various chapels by adventurers in the reign of Hen. II. Here they show a monument, said to be that of Strongbow Earl of Pembroke, the principal invading chieftain; an opinion certainly confirmed by Sir Henry Sydney, in 1570, who restored the monument after it had been broken by the fall of the roof; but Leland asserts that in his time an inscription in Gloucester Cathedral expressly stated that to be his place of sepulture. To the left of the high altar, see a costly marble tomb of an Earl of Kildare, in 1743; opposite to this, one of Secretary Agard in 1577; also the singular musical epitaph of Dr. Woodward. The architecture of the exterior is various, Saxon and Gothic; the inside an incongruous mixture of Gothic and Grecian. The Round Ch. deserves notice for the singularity of its form; and St. Catherine's on the S. side of Thomas-street has a handsome modern front. St. Patrick's Cathedral is a fine object of ancient ecclesiastical architecture, but surrounded by filth and poverty of the most disgusting kind. It is of various dates, from 1190 down to 1750, when the lofty spire was erected; and part, including the steeple, was re-edified in 1370, after partial destruction by fire. The Virgin's Chapel is of the year 1271; but the whole is now in such a ruinous state that Sir R. C. Hoare fears its speedy downfall. He recommends the Chapter-house and choir as the best specimens of its architecture. On the right of the altar see the very curious monument of the Boyle family, rising nearly to the ceiling; on the opposite side, the tomb of Lord Ranelagh; a tablet to the memory of Dean Swift, and near it one for Stella; another to Sir H. Wallop; and a bust of the celebrated but eccentric George Falkner.

The _Hospitals_ are numerous and well regulated. The principal are, the Blue-coat Hospital at Oxmanton Green, for sons of decayed freemen; Foundling, spacious and airy; Kilmainham, for soldiers, on the plan of Chelsea on a grand scale; Magdalen, in Leeson-street, with Sunday service; Marine School, on Rogerson's Quay; Incorporated Society's Establishment, in Lower Bagot-street, for females educated at public expense, until apprenticed; with many others.

_Literary Societies._--The Institution in Sackville-street has a good library, lecture- and news-rooms; good collection of minerals and marbles. The Dublin Society has a fine Museum of Natural History, particularly in minerals; good library, laboratory, lecture-room, exhibition of paintings; Botanic Garden at Glasnevin, and Observatory at Dunsink. Royal Irish Academy has literary meetings every Monday.

_Private Edifices_--are not very numerous. See Charlemont House; Leinster House, fine Corinthian front, rusticated, and Doric wings; Waterford House in Marlborough-street.

_Public Edifices._--The barracks consist of 4 noble squares. The Castle, mean on the outside but splendid within, contains Public offices, an Arsenal and Armory; elegant modern Gothic Chapel, and Bermingham's Tower. Commercial buildings on N. side of Dame-street. To see the Custom House with striking effect, it must be viewed from the opposite side of the river, where the statues and decorations present a fine spectacle. The internal arrangements deserve notice. The long room is 70 feet square and of course a practical bull. The Exchange merits peculiar architectural attention, being a fine rotunda within a square, having in the interior 12 fluted pillars of the Composite order, 32 feet high, with a highly enriched entablature crowned by a handsome dome. The Law Courts form a magnificent pile; the approach grand, the hall noble, and the arrangements well suited to the purpose. Sir R. C. Hoare objects to the architectural effect produced by the dome, especially when viewed from the opposite side of the river. See the Linen Hall. The Parliament House, no longer used for its original purpose, presents a façade of fine architecture perfectly in unison with the handsome front of Trinity College. Post Office in Sackville-street. Stamp Office occupies an elegant mansion in William-street; once Powerscourt House. Trinity College forms a very striking object when approached from Dame-street. The tourist will notice the fine effect on entering the principal court, particularly of two elegant stone buildings with correspondent Corinthian porticoes on the right and left. See the Library, a magnificent room, surpassed only in Sir R. C. Hoare's opinion, by that of Trinity College at Cambridge: it is 269 feet long, 50 broad, and 40 high. The æra of the University is the reign of Elizabeth, but the edifice itself is modern. A handsome but not very extensive park belongs to the University, in which, see the celebrated Anatomical School, with wax preparations; also the Museum and the Provost's House.

_Public Places_ are not very numerous. The Rotunda in Rutland-square, attached to the Lying-in Hospital, is open as a promenade with balls, concerts, &c. The Theatre Royal (Crow-street) is gloomy on the outside, but highly embellished and convenient within.

The _Squares_ and _Streets_ are often spacious. College Green has a statue of K. William III. in the centre. Fitzwilliam Square, small but pretty. Merrion Square, open and airy, with some good buildings. Mountjoy Square enjoys a most extensive prospect, and is elegantly laid out. St. Stephen's Green is the largest square in Europe. Sackville Street is also the widest street, having been originally a Mall, with houses built on each side. Great, however, as these are, Sir R. C. Hoare passes on them some severe criticisms, by no means unfounded.

In the _Environs_, see the Royal Canal and City Basin; ride round the circular road for good views of the city; visit the light-house at the extremity of a pier upwards of 3 m. in length; and ride over the Phœnix Park, 7 m. in circumference.

_Excursions_ from Dublin, to the extent of a day's ride, may be arranged in 4 directions, N.E., S.E., S.W., and N.W.

In the N.E., Beldoyle is a pleasant little village 6 m. near the Hill of Howth, with enchanting marine prospects. Clontarf, a neat village 2-1/2 m., a fashionable bathing-place. Here fell Brian Boru, the Irish king, in a battle with the Danes (1014). See the Castle and Ch.; also some lead ore in the neighbouring quarry. Drumcondra, a pleasant village, nearly unites with Dublin on the northern verge. The old Ch. is neatly modernized, and contains a handsome monument to the memory of Mr. Coghill, Chancellor of the Exchequer in the last century; but the picturesque tourist will be more interested by the grave of the late antiquary, Francis Grose, whose graphic hand here moulders in the dust. See the superb mansion of Santry, 1 m.; and the view from Cloghran Ch. on a lofty eminence. Howth, 7 m. E., is well worth visiting from the metropolis on account of its extensive prospects. See the Light-house; the rocky island of Ireland's Eye; the ancient Castle of the Earls of Howth; the ruins of an ancient Chapel. The botanist will also find several medicinal and fragrant plants among its rugged cliffs. Howth House presents a venerable picture of antiquity to the eye of taste. The surface of the peninsula on which it stands is sterile; but swelling into a lofty hill is usually denominated the Hill of Howth: its shores are rocky and precipitous, indented with creeks for small craft, and abounding with gloomy caverns in which seals and porpoises are often seen rolling their unwieldy bodies. Howth contains several religious fragments worthy of notice. The ruins of the Ch. are extensive and picturesque, and there is something interesting in tracing the vestiges of the ancient monastery which once stood close to its hallowed walls. Entering at the S. door the visitor passes into a hall, out of which a door opens into the church shaded by venerable foliage. Beyond this is the kitchen, with the ruins of several apartments. Close by it is an ancient moat; and a small rivulet flows beneath the old battlemented wall. See the new Pier; and make an excursion to Lambay Island, where are ruins of an old Castle, and plenty of shell-fish and rabbit shooting. Marino is a small Italian Casino, seated on a pleasing lawn, margined on the higher part by a luxuriant shrubbery. The whole possesses much elegance, lightness, and effect, and commands a fine prospect. The rising ground on which it stands slopes off to an agreeable accompaniment of wood, beyond which, on one side is the harbour, which here has the appearance of a noble river covered with shipping. See the venerable Ch. at Artane. Near it see the pleasant village of Raheny; and the venerable Ch. at St. Douloghs, built before the 11th century, most curious to the antiquary and architect.--In the SOUTH EAST see Black Rock, a pleasant watering village, 4 m. S.E., beautifully situated on the bay, with extensive prospects. Visit Sea point, and obelisk at Rochestown. Bullock is a village on the sea coast, 7 m. from the capital; much frequented as a watering place. On the cliffs are the extensive ruins of an old castle, of uncertain antiquity; also a Druidical cromlech in a glen, deserving the notice of the picturesque tourist. Dalkey, a village on the sea shore, contains the ruins of two old castles. The island opposite to it has the ruins of a Ch. and vestiges of an ancient sepulture. Also a martello tower. The iron-bound coast is very romantic towards Killeny Hill, from whence are some charming prospects, especially from the obelisk on the summit. In tracing the bold and striking scenery towards Bray, the tourist will not omit Mount Druid, the Circle, Gothic Tower, and ruins of Killeny Ch. Donnybrook, on the extreme limits of the city, has a venerable Ch.; go on to the magnificent mansion of Viscount Fitzwilliam, at Mount Merrion; and to Stillorgan, 4 m., with most extensive prospect from the Obelisk. Dundrum, 4 m., is noted for goats' whey: see deep Glen and ancient Castle; enchanting scenery, and extensive prospects. Dunleary, 5 m., is a thriving village, with numerous natural beauties and much recent improvement. See Martello Towers. At Rath mines, close to the city, see the ruins of Baggotsrath Castle, celebrated in the military history of this part of the island during the civil wars. Loughlinstown has in its vicinity the venerable ruins of Tallagh Ch., with curious sepulchral Crosses in an ancient cemetery, marked by legendary superstitions. Rathfarnam, 3 m., beautifully seated on an eminence, has near it the magnificent Castle of the Morgans of Ely. The elegant seat of Marloy, and Southwell's Glen, with most romantic scenery; Druids altar, and ancient Judgement Chair of the Brehon Laws. The pedestrian may here spend a day delightfully.--In the SOUTH WEST, Chapelizod, a handsome populous village, is close to the Phœnix Park, and famous for its Strawberries. See picturesque and venerable Chapel, and fine scenery towards Lucan. Clondalkin is a village about 4 m. from Dublin, and worthy the notice of the tourist for its round tower, 84 feet in height, close to a church of modern erection, but surrounded by ancient ruins supposed to belong to a Danish palace, and an archiepiscopal see. Tallagh, 5 m., a straggling village. See venerable archiepiscopal palace, now deserted: also fine prospect from summit of the hill; and Timoon Castle in ruins. In the NORTH WEST, see Castleknock, a small pleasant village, 4 m. W., and its old Castle in ruins, built in the reign of Hen. II. and commanding a fine view. Near it is the venerable ruin of Drymnagh Castle, in a most romantic spot; also Dunsink, where stands the Observatory. Glasmenogue, in the vicinity, is a station for the passage-boats on the Royal Canal; an excursion on which cannot fail to amuse the tourist.

GLASNEVIN is 2 m. N. of Dublin.--See the Botanic Garden of the Dublin Society, well laid out and conducted upon the Linnean System. Its hot-houses possess an immense variety of curious exotics, and the whole extent is little short of twenty acres. Luttrell's Town, 3 m. from Dublin, through the Phœnix Park: a fine seat, with handsome lawn bounded by rich woods, through which are many ridings 4 m. in extent, leading through a romantic glen by the side of a stream falling over a rocky bed, amidst the dark foliage of steep slopes through which the Liffey is heard or seen at intervals; the whole is of great extent, and forms a most picturesque retirement.

LEIXLIP is a pleasant town 8 m. W. of Dublin, on the very verge of the county, with a good Inn.--See Carton (Kildare), the elegant seat of the Duke of Leinster; also the Castle, with fine grounds and romantic scenery: the ruins of Confy Castle; and beautiful vale watered by the Liffey. Ballymore Eustace has a good bridge over the river, close by where the Liffey issues from the romantic dell of Phollaphuca (Wicklow). See ruins of a Castle. Lucan, 6 m., is a delightful village, with sulphureous chalybeate in a grove on the banks of the river. See the house and picturesque ground; also Iron-works, Calico-mills, and Limestone quarries.

SWORDS is 6 m. N. of the capital, on the great northern road, and contains several specimens of antiquity. See the Castle, of which a large square tower with massy fragments of walls still remains; also the ruins of the Ch., with a round tower 73 feet high and 55 in circumference, in very good preservation. Here also were an Abbey and Nunnery, of which some vestiges may yet be traced. At Brennanston, about 8 m. N.W., see Druidical Cromlech, six upright, and 1 horizontal stone, 14 feet long and 12 broad. Lusk, about 5 m. N., is highly deserving the notice of the antiquary for the curious architecture of its Ch., consisting of two long aisles, separated by a screen of seven arches. The east end only is at present appropriated to public worship; but the west end is remarkable for its square steeple with round towers at three of the corners, whilst opposite to the fourth is a round tower insulated, in very good preservation, and loftier than the others. About 3 m. W. on a rising ground near to the bay of Mallahide, is a curious old Castle, pleasantly situated on a rising ground, surrounded by fine timber, commanding a most extensive and beautiful view of the coast, together with a good prospect over the adjacent country; said to have been either built, or to have received considerable repairs and additions, in the reign of Edward IV. Latterly it has been solely used as a family mansion, but formerly as a place of defence. The edifice is large, irregular, and unequal in its height; it is nearly square, and has an area or court within. The entrance is on the east front, by a flight of stone steps; and the hall is large, its ancient appearance corresponding well with the outside. There are ten rooms on a floor; one of which, a parlour, is wainscoted with oak, which presents a curious specimen of antique carving. The lower story is vaulted, founded on a limestone rock, and contains the servants' offices.

MINERALS.

Crystals:--near Robs Well.

Coal slate, full of sulphur mixed with micaceous stones:--at Portrain.

Copper ore:--near Castle Knock, Cloghran, Rathbeal, &c.

_Gypsum striatum_, answers every purpose of plaster of Paris, and is found in several places.

Iron manifests its presence in a coarse reddish earth:--at Turvey.

On the S.E. coast of Lough Shinney, between Rush and Skerries, there are large rocks of the _Lapis Hibernicus_, or Irish slate, which in some places exhibit a vitriolic efflorescence.

Lead ore:--in the quarry near Stephen's Green; at the Black rock; and at Cloghran Church.

Limestone, hard, veined with quartz, impregnated with ferruginous matter, and full of crystallizations:--at Howth.

Limestone quarries:--at Malahide.

Pearls are sometimes discovered in the Poolbeg oysters.

BOTANY.

_Agaricus alneus_, Alder Agaric:--in woods.

_Alchemilla vulgaris_, Common Ladies Mantle:--in Closes between Glassmanogue and Finglass.

_Alisma Damasonium_, Star-headed Water Plantain:--in a pasture near Temple-oge in Dublin.

_Allium vineale_, Crow Garlic:--above Island Bridge, and in some meadows near Bally Griffin, in Fingall.

_Anthyllis vulneraria_, Kidney Vetch or Ladies Finger;--on dry hillocks near the Bay.

_Asperula odorata_, Woodroof:--among bushes between Ropers Rest and Mount Jerom.

_Asplenium Ruta muraria_, White Maiden-hair, or Wall-Rue:--at Tallagh Castle and Ball's Bridge.

_Aster Tripolium_, Sea Starwort:--underneath the Black Rock.

_Brassica oleracea sylvestris_, Sea Cabbage:--on sea cliffs.

_Chrysanthemum segetum_, Corn Marygold:--near Iniscore Hill, and in Patrick's Well Lane, Dublin.

_Chrysosplenium oppositifolium_, Common Golden Saxifrage:--near Harold's Cross.

_Cochlearia anglica_, Sea Scurvy-grass:--among the short grass below the Black Rock.

_Cochlearia danica_, Danish Scurvy-grass:--near Ringsend.

_Cochlearia officinalis_, Garden Scurvy-grass:--on the coast.

_Cotyledon Umbilicus Veneris_, Navel-wort, Kidney-wort, or Wall Penny-wort:--on old buildings at Mitchel's-town, and on the wall of a ruined Church at Lucan.

_Crambe maritima_, Sea Colewort:--on the sea beach near Dunleary.

_Drosera longifolia_, Long-leaved Sundew: near Edenderry.

_Empetrum nigrum_, Black-berried Heath, Crow or Crake-berries:--on mountainous heaths.

_Erigeron acre_, Blue-flowered Flea-bane:--in a dry hilly pasture facing the huts at the Black Rock.

_Eryngium maritimum_, Sea Holly or Eryngo:--Dublin.

_Erysimum cheiranthoides_, Treacle Wormseed:--about Temple-oge.

_Euphorbia hyberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--on mountainous districts.

_Euphorbia paralia_, Sea Spurge:--on the sandy shore between the Warren House and Rahany.

_Fucus palmatus_, Handed Fucus:--on rocks about Dalkey Island.

_Geranium sanguineum_, Bloody Crane's-bill:--in a close near Simon's Court.

_Glaux maritima_, Sea Milkwort or Black Salt-wort:--above Bally-bough Bridge near the rivulet.

_Hieracium murorum_, French or Golden Lungwort:--under a hedge on Iniscore Hill.

_Lathræa Squamaria_, Toothwort:--on the sea shore between Dunleary and Newton.

_Linum perenne_, Perennial Blue-flax:--on the lands of Simon's-court.

_Lysimachia tenella_, Purple Money-wort:--in a rotten spongy pasture beyond Simon's-court and at Rathfarnham.

_Lithospermum officinale_, Gromwell:--at Iniscore Hills and above Palmerstown Mills.

_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club-moss:--on mountains.

_Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus_, Daffodil:--in closes near Clontarf, the Hill of Howth, and near Doulack's Well.

_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adders-tongue:--in moist places.