Part 8

BALLYSHANNON, about 10 m. W. of Donnegal,--presents some pleasing scenery of beautiful landscapes, swelling hills cultivated, and with the bay flowing up between them. These hills are extremely picturesque, rising into various outlines, and dying away insensibly into one another. See Bridge of 14 arches; also the Salmon-leap, surrounded by most romantic scenery; a fine fall of water; perpendicular rocks forming the banks of the river, with bold views of the sea. Here also are some ruins of the once famous Castle of the O'Donnels, the turbulent feudal chieftains of Tyrconnel; and 1/2 m. distant, in a secluded but finely picturesque situation, the ruins of Asheroe Abbey. In the vicinity several Danish Raths. Belleek is a pretty village, 8 m. E. of Ballyshannon, and at the end of Lough Erne, whose waters here form two fine cataracts under perpendicular and well wooded rocks. Several handsome seats, particularly Castle Caldwell on the Lough, with ruins of several ancient Castles; but in Fermanagh.

DONNEGAL, the county town, is a decayed town 111 m. N.W. from Dublin.--It contains little worth notice, except an ancient castellated mansion of the Earls of Arran, which with the river and bridge is considered by Sir R. C. Hoare as forming a good subject for the pencil. Near it are the remains of a Franciscan Abbey (1505) in a most picturesque situation. See spacious market-place; mill-stone quarries in vicinity. The finest view of the Bay is from the bridge of Imber, whence towards the right is seen a lofty but distant mountain, with cultivated fields in the foreground: at the foot of another mountain a gentleman's seat with well grown plantations strikes the eye; and to the left the scene is diversified by a sand bank thrown up by the sea, and a high ridge of plantation on the western side of the river, with the bay appearing beyond it or seen through its waving interstices. Barnmoor pass is highly awful and grand, leading towards Lough Esk, about a quarter of a mile wide and 3 m. long, formed by mountains rising high on each side of a deep glen covered with heath, and frowning in deathlike silence. Lough Derg, 6 m. E. is remarkable for its Purgatory; founded as reported by St. Patrick, in a small island about 130 yards long and 50 broad. The Purgatory itself consists of a cave 16-1/2 feet long by 2 wide, so very low that a tall man cannot stand erect in it. Around it are the remains of several Chapels and holy circles dedicated to various saints of both sexes. Lough Esk lies at the head of the valley which communicates with Donnegal, and at the foot of the magnificent Ross Mountains; round it the scenery is sometimes awfully sublime, and sometimes rich and cheerful. The sportsman will find red deer on the hills, and char in the lake.

INISHOWEN BARONY.--Even in Ireland, it is considered wild, savage, and impassable, from want of good roads. But Mr. Wakefield represents it in a very different light, and worthy the notice of the tourist. The roads, he says, are very good; the land better cultivated than any other part of the county; whilst the views of Lough Swilly from it are exceedingly grand. See the agreeably situated house of the Bishop of Derry at Faun. Let the mineralogist visit the Arigal, on the eastern bound of the county, said to be the highest hill in the province; it is shaped like a sugar-loaf, and contains a quantity of mountain spar, with lead-mines in its vicinity. In this district is the parish of Cloncha, where are some remains of a large stone Cross sculptured with rude representations of various animals; also part of a Druidical circle of 12 stones, 6 feet high, forming a segment of a circle 60 feet in diameter. In the same parish see the great peninsular rock of Dunmore. In this parish are still preserved some traditionary fragments of Ossian. In Clonmany parish see the picturesque scenery round the Ch.; also a round tower forming part of the ruins of an ancient Castle; near it a castle on a pyramidal rock, not far from which is Mamore Gap, presenting the most sublime scenery of mountains, rocks, and ocean,--a district consecrated to the memory of Cuchullin and the heroes of other times: a Druidical altar here, is called Cuchullin's (or Fion Mac Cuil's) stone. Near Cromla, in this vicinity, is the site of the ancient Tura, so famed in those scattered traditionary fragments that form the basis of Mac Pherson's modern Fingal.

KILLYBEGS, about 12 m. W. of Donnegal, offers some fine marine and mountain scenery. See ruins of Abbey.

LETTERKENNY, about 25 m. N.E. of Donnegal, and 15 m. W.N.W. of Londonderry, forms a good station for visiting the wild scenery towards the coast. At Ards Castle, see ruins of Castle and Baltimore Ch. Dunfanaghy has some castellated ruins in its vicinity. At Hornhead, 28 m. W. from Letterkenny, see a remarkable cavern called Mac Swine's Gun, on a rocky cliff 60 feet perpendicular. Of these rocks the lower stratum is porous sandstone, hollowed into a cavern by the violence and continual buffeting of the waves, from whence an aperture proceeds to the summit. When the wind comes from the N.W. the billows being driven with great violence into the cavern, the water thus forced to find a passage through the aperture, rises to the summit of the funnel, from whence it again descends with a most tremendous noise. Near this is MacSwine's Castle, an ancient edifice, now fitted up as a modern residence. See Rutland, a modern fishing-town, worthy the notice of the statistical tourist. Kilmacrenan, about 8 m. N., has some ecclesiastical ruins, founded by St. Columb, of which the parish Ch. forms a part. See the rock on which the O'Donnels, princes of Tyrconnel, were always inaugurated; also Lough Salt, in a romantic situation on the summit of a mountain. Murkish Mountain, situated within 4 m. of two deep and safe harbours, Dunfanaghy and Sheephaven, affords siliceous sand in great abundance. Rathmelton is a beautiful village on the banks of Lough Swilly: see Sir J. Stewart's handsome seat. The scenery around is delightful; much planting, a fine river, and every appearance of increasing industry and comfort. W. of Rathmelton is the bridge of Loughaugh, an arch of 52 feet span. Ascend Mount Alt, on the summit of which a lake with most extensive prospect, combining ocean and mountain scenery.

LIFFORD, 28 m. N.E. of Donnegal, is prettily seated on the river Foyle, and is the assize town for the county. The tourist will here find the inhabitants a complete Scotch colony.

RAPHO, 24 m. N.E. of Donnegal, was an episcopal city, but now a dilapidated village.--See the Episcopal Palace, once a Castle which stood a siege in the Civil Wars: also the modernized Cathedral. Near Ballybofy see Lough Mourne, and the dreary mountains of Barnsmore.

TORY ISLAND, which lies about 3 leagues from the main, N.W. from Sheephaven, contains the ruins of a monastery and of seven churches, having formerly been a "station," or place of Catholic penance.

MINERALS.

Sandstone and basaltes or whinstone, with pieces of coal imbedded, are frequent in Kilbarrow and Kildoney. Emery is also found in the same vicinity, and the chalybeates announce the existence of iron. Lead and iron ore are to be found in the mountains.

BOTANY.

_Galium boreale_, Crosswort Madder:--in mountainous meadows.

_Gnaphalium sylvaticum_, Upright Cudweed:--in sandy pastures and woods.

DOWN.

The modern picture of this county, as sketched by Mr. Wakefield, is flattering to Irish pride, and shows what may be done by industry. He observes that in the western side in particular, the land is in a high state of cultivation, and inhabited by a middle class of opulent manufacturers, whose appearance and condition would do honour to any country in Europe. Their habitations are well-built, display great neatness, and are all whitewashed. The whole tract is embellished with plantations; and, whether owing to the wealth created by the linen manufacture, or the trade carried on at Belfast and Newry, every thing exhibits evident signs of increased population and industry. The banks of the rivers Bann and Lagan are covered with bleach-fields, and present that cheerful and pleasing scenery which characterizes a manufacturing country, and excites in the mind an idea of improved civilization. The whiteness of the linen spread out in those fields, contrasted with the greenness of the surrounding sward, produces an effect on the eye not easily described; and the concomitant objects, added to the bustle and activity of the people employed, render the whole scene most interesting. In the S. the mountains of Mourne raise their majestic heads to the sky, and afford much entertainment to the picturesque tourist, who may visit them from Rosstrevor; and it is a curious fact recently noticed, that a road leading to Carlingford over one of the loftiest, is actually cut through a stratum of sea shells (_Turbo littoreus_) of considerable depth, and more than 1 m. in length. The roads are good in all parts, and the accommodations comfortable. Bounded on the N. by Antrim, E. by St. George's Channel, S. by Louth, and W. by Armagh.

BALLYNAHINCH, 10 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, seated on a small river nearly in the centre of the county, has been long celebrated for its sulphurated chalybeate spa, at the foot of Slieve Croob mountain at about 2 m. dist. The vicinity is peculiarly romantic. See Ch., Charter-school, and Dissenting Meeting-house. See on the summit of Slieve Croob mountain a remarkable cairn, 80 yards in circumference at base, and 50 at top; another near Annadorn in its immediate vicinity with a rude stone chamber in the centre. The space between Slieve Croob and Ballynahinch is so completely occupied with rocks and hills, that anciently it bore the name of Magheradrol, or Field of Difficulties.

BANBRIDGE, about 18 m. W. from Downpatrick, has a bridge over the Bann, and is in the heart of the linen manufacture. At Gilford, 5 m. distant, is a chalybeate; and the river scenery, especially in the vicinity of its bridge of 18 arches, deserves notice. At Warringston see Ch. with curious roof of Irish oak; also a Danish rath.

BANGOR, a small town 21 m. N. of Downpatrick on Carrickfergus Bay. See ruins of Abbey founded by St. Carigel (555), with Ch. (1623). Near it is Groom's Port, where Schomberg landed with K. William's forces at the Revolution.

COMBER, a thriving little town on Strangford Lough, 13 m. N. of Downpatrick, with pleasant lake scenery. See ruins of Mount Alexander Castle; fine strand at low water, and most excellent race-course. In this place the tourist will hear much of a famous female spinner, Anne MacQuillin, some of whose finest yarn, spun into 105 hanks to the pound of flax, actually measured 214 English miles per pound. To spin this required about a fortnight, and could only be done in mild weather. At Castlereagh, 4 m., see ruins of ancient Castle. At Drumbo, 5 m. S.W. of Castlereagh, see ruins of Ch. and round tower, formerly an Abbey founded by St. Patrick; and 2 m. N. the Giant's Ring, already noticed as in the vicinity of Belfast. It is an ancient circle and mound of earth 842 paces in circumference, with a Druidical altar in the centre, consisting of four masses of stone, with a larger one laid horizontally. On the bank are the remains of a round tower. It is worth observing, that although there are some lofty mountains in its vicinity, yet a person standing at the Cromlech in the centre has his view completely bounded by the earthen mound, beyond which the sky alone is visible, and the effect sublime. About 3 m. distant on the banks of the Lagan is Newtonbreda, a pretty village with extremely handsome Ch.; and near to it the elegant seat and park of Belvoir. Saintfield, 5 m. S.W. of Comber, is an improving town; near which is a Danish rath worth seeing.

DONAGHADEE, the station for the Scottish packets, about 22 m. N. of Downpatrick, a comfortable town. See Gothic Ch. and new market-place. The pier forms a pleasant walk. See the rath 70 feet high on a natural mount, 140 feet in all. The summit is capable of holding 100 persons, and the view, over the channel, of Scotland and the Isle of Man is very extensive. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will be amused by a marine trip to the Copland Isles, on one of which, Cross Island, containing about 30 acres, there is a light-house constructed of limestone found on the spot. In one of them is a cemetery with the ruins of a Ch., also several cairns. See Portavo and ruins of Temple Ch. on the beach, on the spot where St. Patrick landed.

DOWNPATRICK, 74 m. N. of Dublin, is the county town, pleasantly seated on an arm of Strangford Lough. See remains of ancient Abbey and Cathedral, boasted of as the burial-place of St. Patrick, St. Columb, and St. Bridget: Town-hall; Market-house; Barracks; Gaol: on the N.W. is a conical rath, 60 feet high, inclosed by 3 ramparts; the race-ground 1 m. distant. Struel Wells, celebrated as a Penitentiary, about 1 m. from the town. At Ardglass, 5 m. S.E. in Irish Channel, ruins of several Castles. Ballycarn Bay in its vicinity has a beautiful grotto under a limestone hill, with an intensely cold well. W. of it is Ballyvaston. See an extensive tract of land, rendered sterile by sand from the ocean. Carreg Abbey; ruins of Abbey and St. Finian's Well are near Ardglass; also Castle Screan, built on a Danish rath, with several Druidical remains. Coil-bridge, the Port of Downpatrick, leads to Inis Courcey, where are some ruins of an Abbey (1180). Killough, 5 m. S.E., is a pleasant village, with good harbour on the Irish Channel. See Ch.; Horse-barracks; Charter-school, and near it a mineral spring. In a rock near the shore runs an oblong cavity, which at the ebbing and flowing of the tide emits a noise like a hunting-horn: St. Scordin's Well gushes out of a rock on the beach, and is never dry. Saul Abbey in ruins, with some castellated remains, is about 2 m. from Downpatrick.

DROMORE, about 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, is a bishop's see, but now merely a village.--See the very small Cathedral and neat modern Episcopal Palace. Danish rath on hill at N. side, with a covered passage 260 feet to the Lagan river. Chalybeate spring, said to be good in gravelly complaints. Neat Market-house; Dissenting Meeting-houses, &c. Dromaragh, 6 m. S.E., has some curious artificial caves of considerable extent. S.E. towards Slieve-croob, at Leganeny, a curious cromlech, and ancient stone cross near Drumgooland Ch. Magheralin, 5 m. N.W., has a handsome Ch.; see marble quarries. At Moira, 4 m. N.W., the scene of a sanguinary battle in 637, which lasted six days, between Congal Claon and Donald King of Ireland; see Moira Castle.

DUNDRUM, 7 m. S.W. of Downpatrick, is seated on a large bay open to the Irish Channel--See extensive ruins of ancient Castle on a rock, built by the Knights Templars, but dismantled by Cromwell. Here the noble mountains of Mourne appear to great advantage. Clogh, a small village 2 m. N.E., has a Danish rath surrounded by a broad deep fosse, with plain strong Castle; and near it Mount Panther, seat of the Annesleys. Castle Wellan has a small lake with pretty scenery; near it, Briansford, a village seated midst romantic mountain landscape, rocks, cataracts, &c. New Castle has some castellated ruins at the foot of Slieve Donard, the highest of the Mourne mountains; and is a much frequented sea-bathing place. The vicinity wild and sterile, but alpine and highly romantic. S. of Dundrum, at Slidderyford, are remains of a Druidical circle. Tullymore Park, near to it, is the seat of the Earl of Clanbrassil, and is situated at one end of the mountains of Mourne, and within 2 m. of the sea. The country around it is wild and rocky, exhibiting some scenes of singular beauty in the romantic style. Two mountain torrents join in the Park, and form sundry cascades in their passage to the sea, into which they fall at Dundrum Bay. The house stands in the park, and, though not lofty in itself, yet commands a fine prospect from its elevated situation. It is an extensive edifice with four fronts of 130 feet each, inclosing a square area, and each front is different from the others; 10 m. from Downpatrick.

HILLSBOROUGH, 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, a modern built town with excellent inn. See elegant Ch. with stained glass windows; the mansion of the marquis of Downshire; remains of Castle; handsome Market-house; Maze course, 1 m. distant, one of the finest in Ireland, with a hill in the centre. At Anahilt, 3 m. S., the sportsman will find plenty of pike and trout in Lough Erin, and wild-fowl in the extensive bogs.

KILLYLEAGH, 5 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, stands on Strangford Lough, and is a thriving place, with handsome Ch. &c. It was the birth-place of the venerable Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum. See the Castle. At Ardmillar, 6 m. N.E., is a chalybeate spring. Ringhaddy has some remains of a Castle, and has long been famous for its oysters.

LOUGHBRICKLAND, on the Dublin road from Belfast, is about 24 m. W. of Downpatrick, on the borders of the Jonesborough mountains, where there is much wild scenery, and a small lake in its immediate vicinity where the sportsman will find plenty of speckled trout. It is noted as an encampment of K. William's army on their way to the battle of the Boyne. From Ellenmoney, a bog near it, towards Points Pass, run two rivers, one N. the other S. Near it and at Scarvagh are remains of fortifications in the Civil Wars.

NEWRY, a thriving commercial town at the head of Carlingford Bay, on the verge of the county, and about 25 m. S.W. of Downpatrick.--A pleasant cheerful vicinity, and a good central station. See canal, drawbridges, &c. 1/2 m. distant are the Creeve rocks, with ruins of old Chapel. The mineralogist may here examine specimens of metallic spar, ponderous and ferruginous. At Crownbridge, 1 m. E., a Danish rath; and near it some Druidical remains. At Narrow-water, the port of Newry, see ancient Castle and Salt-works. N. of it 5 m. is Tuscan Pass, with several small lakes in which are plenty of pike. The tourist may also visit Warren's Point, where large ships are obliged to lie, and where the whole line of coast presents a continuation of gentlemen's houses and whitened cottages, enlivened in the bathing season by numerous parties.

NEWTONARDS, a comfortable town at the head of Strangford Lough, about 18 m. N. of Downpatrick. See venerable Ch., with some vestiges of an ancient monastery at Moville 1 m. distant. Gransha, about 5 m. E., has a good chalybeate, stronger than Tunbridge Wells, but little frequented being in a wild boggy district. Not far distant is Grey Abbey on the E. shore of the Lough, founded by a daughter of one of the kings of Man, whose statue is still preserved. Part of it is fitted up as a parish Ch., and the E. window is a noble specimen of Gothic tracery. About 1/2 m. S. of Newtonards is Scraba mountain, lofty, but cultivated nearly to the summit. Near to it are good freestone quarries; and 2 m. N. a loftier hill, sometimes confounded with it, called Karn Gaur or the Goat's Mount. The vicinity is famous for goat's whey. See Mount Stewart.

PORTAFERRY, 10 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a town of some trade at the mouth of Strangford Lough.--See ancient Castle of the Savages; Ch. and two curious chapels. Near it is Echlinville. At Kirkistown, 4 m. N.E., ancient Ch. of Slane, and ruins of Castlebuy.

RATHFRYLAND, about 21 m. W. of Downpatrick, is a large pleasant village.--On summit of a hill see ruins of a Castle. The country round it is very agreeable. See village of Hilltown: Lissize, seat of E. Clanwilliam; and Turkelly's Well, 2 m. N., a celebrated chalybeate for scrophulous complaints.

ROSTREVOR, about 22 m. from Downpatrick, is considered the Brighton of Ireland as a watering-place, and highly extolled for its romantic scenery; being seated on a well wooded bank on a small arm of the sea, which stretches into the country from Carlingford Bay. Sir R. C. Hoare describes the entrance to it as very striking on approaching from Dundrum; Carlingford Bay being so landlocked and surrounded by mountains as to resemble a large lake; and the tourist, passing through an irregular grove of tall and aged ash trees, with the sea and whitened houses glimmering between them, finds here a truly rural village retirement, commanding within its immediate vicinity more beauty than the generality of sea places; a dry soil, shady walks, diversified rides, and good bathing. He describes the most striking feature of this place to be a lofty mountain covered chiefly with oak wood, feathered down to the water's edge; underneath which is a little quay, from whence there is a walk of 3/4 m. along the banks of the bay completely arboured by oak trees, with a good road continued along the coast under the Mourne Mountains to Dundrum Bay. We recommend this spot more particularly to the tourist, as Sir R. C. adds that he has seen no place with a more pleasing combination of rural beauties; mountains agreeably varied with wood, heath, and down, on one side; others on the opposite coast (Louth) singularly cultivated in small portions or strips resembling a quilt of patchwork; between them an extended channel of water, on the banks of which is the town of Carlingford with its ruined Abbeys and Castle; a purling brook, fine trees, neatly whitened cottages, &c. and a clean good inn. Miss Plumptre speaks of it in equally picturesque and admiring terms. 1 m. see ruins of Kilbreny Ch. The tourist may examine a romantic mountain road to Rathfyland; and the mineralogist will find ample amusement on the lofty mountains of Iveagh and Mourne, which extend far to the E. along the Irish sea.

STRANGFORD, 7 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a small but very ancient town, at the entrance of the Lough.--See Charter School, and ruins of Castle Audley, and Walsh's Castle, from the former of which there is a most extensive view over the bay. Kilclief Castle has considerable remains. The Lough possesses some very fine scenery, especially towards its entrance, where through tracts of hilly grounds the Irish Channel is seen at intervals and the lofty hills of the Isle of Man. The town of Strangford in the bottom is pleasantly situated amongst trees, contrasting well with the bold mountains of Mourne in all their sublimity. Near is Castle Ward, the seat of Lord Bangor, with the peculiarity of two fronts, one Grecian the other Gothic. See the fine grounds and extensive prospects.

MINERALS.

Copper ore in several places amongst the mountains. Lead in a mine near Newtonards; rich specimens of ore amongst the rocks at Killough; near Dundrum; and Portaferry.

Freestone quarries at Scraba and Kilwarlin; and slates at Bangor and other places. The mineralogist and geologist will find much amusement in the limestone quarries near Moira, containing specimens of marine exuviæ.

Granite amongst the Mourne Mountains.

Iron has not been found in ore, but the numerous chalybeates attest its presence.

BOTANY.

_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Black Maiden-hair:--on the mountains of Mourne.

_Fucus esculentus_, Broad esculent Sea Wrack:--on submarine rocks and stones.

_Galega officinalis_, (Linn.) Goat's Rue:--in the western parts.

_Juniperus communis_, Common Juniper:--on Mourne and Scraba.

_Juniperus Sabina_, Savine:--on the Mourne mountains.

_Lycopodium alpinum_, Mountain Club Moss:--in the Mourne district.

_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club-moss:--on the Mourne mountains.

_Nymphæa alba_, White Water Lily:--among the lakes in the western parts.