Part 6

CARLOW, 39 m. from Dublin,--is a neat and flourishing town, well situated for inland commerce on the river Barrow. Wakefield describes it as abounding with "houses of entertainment, for almost every shop has attached to it a house which is used as an inn." Examine its Woollen manufactures: some slight remains of its ancient Castle, which recently fell, a mere heap of ruins: the venerable old Ch., from the vicinity of which is a very extensive view, commanding a fertile and well wooded country enlivened by the majestic windings of the river Barrow: ruins of the very fine Abbey founded before the English conquest: the Roman Catholic College, an extensive building, with good gardens and a park for the students' recreation, with the Gaol, Barracks, &c. Miss Plumptre says, that "Carlow is superior to most towns in the kingdom in the neatness of its appearance:" and Hall says that "the ground about it is better improved than in many parts of England." The town and immediate vicinity present some historical recollections; and though the English tourist may not be much interested in the disputes of the Earls of Kildare and Thomond, and the predatory exploits of O'More; yet events of a later date, connected with its siege by Ireton in the civil wars, may lead to inquiry and investigation. It was also the scene of a sanguinary battle, though on a small scale, in the year 1798, being assaulted by the rebels before day-break, and successfully defended by a small party of military and the loyal yeomanry. The visitor will not omit the pleasing domain of Mr. Cavanagh, in the immediate vicinity, from whence the Blackstairs mountains form a striking object; though not lofty, yet bold, bleak, and rugged. Mr. Curwen speaks highly of the scenery in the vale between Carlow and Leighlin Bridge, with enchanting and extensive prospects over a rich country of the most sublime and picturesque features. This valley is about six miles in breadth, bounded on each side by a chain of mountains finely wooded, well inclosed, and cultivated to their summits. Villages and gentlemen's seats to be seen on all sides, with whitewashed cottages well sheltered by trees, and presenting a pleasing air of rural comfort and industry. See Ardglass, 4 m. N., a high green hill, from whence there is a most enchanting prospect of the county, and also Kildare. On its summit is an ancient Catholic Chapel, built in form of a cross, but much resembling a dilapidated barn: read some justly-flattering epitaphs to the Grace family, not badly written. At Kellystown, on the east bank of the Barrow, extensive ruins of a Ch. said to have been first erected by St. Patrick. At Staplestown 2 m. S.E. a pleasing mansion of Mr. Bagnall, once intended to rival Versailles, the grounds owing much both to nature and art, and watered by the romantic little river Burrin.

LEIGHLIN BRIDGE,--is a small village about 8 m. S. of Carlow, with remains of an ancient Castle and some monastic ruins, which have also been castellated. The view from the bridge with the Black Castle at one end is very fine, though the bridge itself is more venerable than picturesque; built in 1320, by a liberal canon of Kildare. The course of the river Barrow presents views of great fertility and beauty, though certainly not so romantic as many smaller streams. See Bally Ellen Castle in ruins about 8 m. S.; also Ballylaghan Castle, which presents a gateway between two lofty circular towers, in the style of Tunbridge Castle. Though the castle stands low, yet the view to the westward is very fine; and, as its walls are in pretty good preservation, it affords an amusing object of research to the antiquary, who may ascend some ruinous staircases into several of the apartments, and gratify his fancy by the recollection of past times. Ballymorn Castle, 5 m. distant, is an extensive ruin standing in a deep vale surrounded by lofty mountains. It is of the middle ages, but has Gothic windows in the interior, and has the peculiarity of its outer walls being perforated by a gallery from whence the garrison could discharge their missiles through numerous loop-holes. Only one large tower remains. Clonmore is an extensive and pleasing ruin, presenting a good idea of the arrangements, half military half domestic, of the earlier times, though unroofed and much dilapidated, but rendered venerable by the covering of thick ivy that mantles its walls, affording shelter to the birds of night. Fenough, 9 m. S.E., has an old Castle near the church, once a residence of the kings of Leinster. Garryhaddon, 2 m. N.E., a deserted mansion of the Ormond family, has an appearance of ancient magnificence, with an extensive park and gardens. Whilst the picturesque tourist is rambling through the Carlow mountains, he will not omit visiting a deep recess in the Slieumargah, where stand the remains of the Abbey of Old Leighlin, recorded in the earliest monastic legends, but now exhibiting no remnants of architecture anterior to the 12th century, when it was re-edified, after destruction by fire about the time of the Norman conquest. Here was once a celebrated episcopal city; but the ruins of the Abbey, of which the cathedral is still kept in decent repair as a parish Ch., alone remain. The Abbey, though not very extensive, is deserving of notice on account of its pinnacled spire and the rich tracery of its Gothic windows, being about the time of Hen. II. or at least re-edified after a destructive fire; but suffered to sink into ruin since the union of the Sees of Leighlin and Ferns. On the west side of the Ch. under some trees, see the once celebrated well of St. Laferian, now nearly filled up, and near it a rude stone cross. The antiquary will also find subjects of research in some old termini or stones of memorial erected by Bishop Harlewin about 1216, as boundaries of the liberties of the ancient city; one of these is close by Leighlin Bridge, another near Wells, and a third on the mountains. Ledwich gives a good engraving in his _Antiquities_. The antiquary will derive some pleasure from a visit to a small village, St. Mullins, about 15 m. S.E. from Leighlin Bridge and agreeably seated on the Barrow. This place, particularly its extensive burial-ground, possesses much sanctity in the opinions of the lower Irish, from its antiquity, having been founded as early as the 7th century by a saint of the name, who built the church here and was bishop of Ferns. This episcopal eremite long inhabited the gloomy vale of Glendaloch, was a great patriot, causing the remission of a tax of oxen, and a great prophet also. The ruins, though not very extensive, are picturesque, and the whole scene one of solemn meditation, backed by the lofty mountains of Blackstairs.

TULLOW, 10 m. E. of Carlow.--A pleasant town on the Slaney. Bridge of six arches: close to it ruins of an Abbey: Castle converted into barracks: neat Ch. and Market-house:--taken by Cromwell after a sanguinary siege. Hackets Town, about 7 m. N.E., a small neat village, the scene of two violent assaults by the rebels in 1798. Mount Leinster, about 8 m. S., deserves the sportsman's notice, for its hares, foxes, and grouse; also a well said to be unfathomable, and much resorted to for medicinal purposes.

MINERALS.

Limestone in great abundance.

BOTANY.

Hitherto uninvestigated.

CAVAN.

CAVAN, though an inland district, possesses more water scenery and more diversified than any other in the island, with the exception of Kerry; for here the tourist meets with many beautiful and picturesque landscapes enlivened by small lakes, in some places spreading into expanse, in others assuming the form of rivers, proceeding from the lakes of Westmeath in their course to Lough Erne. The general face of the county consists of eminences, which, though not very lofty, yet rugged and uneven, afford a great variety of prospect, and swell into mountains on the borders of Fermanagh and Leitrim. This county came very late into civilization or even cultivation, being one of the most celebrated in the ancient feuds and wars for its fastnesses, woods, bogs, and all the natural impediments so formidable in warfare. It is exactly midway between the Atlantic Ocean and St. George's Channel; but its extremes are not more than 14 m. distant from the sea:--the tourist will find the roads rather indifferent. Bounded on the N. by Fermanagh and Monaghan, E. by Westmeath, S. by Longford, W. by Leitrim.

BELTURBET, about 8 m. N.W. of Cavan; built upon an eminence above the river Erne, on which there is much romantic scenery.--See the Tower and Market-house, and some vestiges of an ancient fortification beyond the church. Ballyconnel, 5 m. W., is a good station for head-quarters in viewing this end of Lough Erne. Examine Ortnacullagh mountain for minerals and spars. Ballyhayes, though only a common village, possesses some antique and fantastical buildings that show it to have once been a place of considerable note. The Mansion-house is a curious specimen of Irish feudal splendour. Near it the poor but enchantingly situated village of Butler's Bridge. Drumlane Priory, 3 m. from Belturbet, is now little more than a large barn used as a church, but of considerable antiquity, being founded as early as the 6th century; though it is probable that the oldest part now remaining is the round tower which stands close to one corner of the sacred edifice. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and long of great sanctity as a place of sepulture; but perhaps more remarkable in its being the birth-place of St. Maidoc, a celebrated legendary personage, respecting whose parents these holy legends are wisely silent.

CAVAN, 54 m. N.W. from Dublin.--Sir Rich. C. Hoare describes it as situated in a vale near a small river, and making but a poor appearance as a county town. See the Court-house and Barracks. Ballyhedy Bridge, about 3 m. distant, crosses the Erne, in a pleasing country surrounded by beautiful mansions and highly improved demesnes. Near it see Farnham, the mansion of Earl Farnham, which Wakefield considers as one of the finest and best kept demesnes in the island. It affords abundance of views intermixed with some lake scenery; and the cottage at Killishandra not far distant, together with one called Lady Farnham's, an elegant retreat on the border of a small lake, are well worth seeing. At the latter in particular, the scenery is exceedingly romantic, the sides of the hills being covered with waving trees approaching close to the level of the water. Notice the pleasing views on the river Croghan; also the neat Ch. with the ruins of an old Castle on the western bank: also the richly wooded demesne of Castle Sanderson, with the spacious lake and grounds of Cloverhill, and the new mansion of Castle Hamilton. Visit the mountain of Bruce Hill. Kilmore, 2 m. S.W., is remarkable for the smallest Cathedral in the empire, being nothing but the parish church: near it is Lough Outer, where stand the ruins of an ancient Castle on a small island, remarkable as the prison of the good Bishop Bedell, during the rebellion of 1641. Sir C. Coote observes (in his Survey of the County), that the many beautiful islands encircled by this charming lake are crowned with the finest timber, which their undulating surface presents to view in a variety of shades; and their deep recesses and romantic scenery strongly picture to the mind the aptitude of these sequestered islands for the superstitious rites which formerly were celebrated there.

COOTEHILL, about 9 m. N.E. of Cavan,--is a smart well-built town, and shows the advantages resulting from the introduction of the linen manufacture. It contains nothing very remarkable; but is a good station for several objects in its vicinity. Baillieborough is 9 m. S.E., close to which is a pleasant lough; also a chalybeate spring. The view from the Ch. is good; and on the summit of a hill, between it and King's Court, is a pool long celebrated for its antiscorbutic qualities, the patients bathing in it and rubbing their bodies with the mud. It well deserves the notice of the geologist and the medical tourist. Bellamont Forest, the family seat of the Bellamonts, uniting with Dawson's Grove, forms a tract of romantic scenery that must not be neglected by the picturesque traveller. The views from it are very fine; and Bruce Hill is a most striking feature in the scenery. King's Court is a modern creation, rising fast into a thriving town, clearly exemplifying what may be done by a patriotic landlord. In its vicinity are several deep glens and valleys, within which flow rapid streams affording many romantic and interesting scenes. See ruins of Castle at Muff. Shircock, about 7 m. E., has some lakes in its neighbourhood. About 2 m. S. visit a narrow glen, in which the mineralogist will find much amusement. Specimens of coal and other fossils.

DALYS BRIDGE, about 12 m. S.E. from Cavan,--is a neat village, with several pleasing objects in its vicinity. Shaalan Lake, or Lough Shecklin, deserves a visit, being 7 m. long and 4 broad in some places; studded on the north side with gentlemen's cottages used as sporting-boxes, and extremely well planted: whilst on its southern verge, amidst lofty hills and fertile cornfields, may be seen the ruins of the ancient Castle of Ross, with the high hill or Ben of Fore. On an island are the ruins of an Abbey.

SWADLINBAR, a neat village about 18 m. N.W. from Cavan,--has long been celebrated for its Spa, containing sulphur, earth, sea salt, and fossil alkali, being alterative and diaphoretic. Near it are the ruins of a Ch.; and a little further, but in Fermanagh, is the splendid mansion of Florence Court, a seat of the E. of Enniskillin. See and examine Quilca mountain, with its iron mines, and a spring of good water on its summit: its general appearance is very grand, overhanging the valley in towering magnificence. The tourist will here be amused with many legendary tales of feudal times, of sprites and faëry. Its summit was the ancient place of investiture for the MacGwyres, once the petty kings of this district.

VIRGINIA, 12 m. S.E. of Cavan,--is a small village, and in the immediate vicinity of Lough Ramor, of great extent, studded with islands once clothed with foliage but now denuded, yet still possessing the ruins of several old Castles.

MINERALS.

Lead and copper mines in the town land of Mayo: also coal, various ochres, manganese, spar, a species of jasper, iron, and some limestone. In Quilca mountain is a very rich iron mine; and in Ortnacullagh mountain, near Ballyconnel, lead and silver ores, pure sulphur, fullers' earth, white and red transparent spars, and slate quarries, with some indications of coal. There are mineral waters also at Derrylester; sulphureous at Derrindaff; alkaline at Owen Bruin; and also at Carrickmore. At Cootehill are rich veins of copper ore and pyrites.

BOTANY.

_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places.

_Myrica Gale_, Gale, Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle:--near rivers.

_Spergula arvensis_, Small Spurrey:--in sandy places.

CLARE.

This county lies N. of the Shannon, containing also another river, the Fergus, and possessing great capabilities from its maritime situation. Its bays and harbours are numerous; but its coast is dangerous, consisting principally of basaltic cliffs, which frown destruction on the unhappy mariner who may be caught upon its lee shore. It is in most parts mountainous, yet deficient in woody landscape; but the barony of Burrin N. of Kilfernora is replete with rude magnificence; whilst the lake and river scenery offers many beauties to the painter: bounded on the S.E. by Limerick, W. by the Atlantic, N. by Galway Bay, E. by Galway and Tipperary, and is nearly insulated by the Shannon and the Ocean.

CLARE is a small town 4 m. from Ennis.--See the Abbey, extensive in its ground plan and still venerable in decay, particularly a square lofty tower lately in good preservation: it is of high antiquity, having been founded as early as the 12th century by O'Brien, King of North Munster, but was taken from St. Peter and St. Paul by Henry VIII. and given to an ancestor of the Thomond family. The scene of many sanguinary feudal battles in the 13th century. Ruins of an old Castle 1 m. distant.

ENNIS is the shiretown, and 112 m. W. from Dublin.--Curwen observes, that the approach to the town is delightful, on account of the apparent comfort of the lower classes; the town itself neat and thriving. See the neat modern Ch. surmounted by the ruins of the venerable Abbey, one of the finest in Ireland, whose long narrow windows, divided by stone railing, with the remnants of some delicate carving and other architectural ornaments, are considered by Grose as speaking its era, and the expense bestowed upon it in the 13th century. See also the handsome Charity School. About 8 m. W. is Callan mountain, where the antiquary may examine the tombstone, with the Ogham inscription on Conan the Swift-footed, whose death and burial-place are recorded in an historical tale supposed to have been written by Ossian in the year 296. See also the Druidical altar on the S. side of the mountain. Between Ennis and Lough Derg is Dromoland, the venerable and antique mansion of the O'Briens, baronets. Crusheen, 5 m. N.E., has the ruins of an ancient Castle nearly surrounded by a lake. Quin Abbey is 5 m. E., romantic and presenting a good portrait of monastic times, with sombre cloisters, private passages, ruined chapels, ancient monuments, and sainted statues. Near it is Spancel Hill; Castle in ruins; 5 m. from which see Tulla Castle.

KILFENORA, 12 m. N.W. of Ennis, is on the borders of the romantic district of Burrin. See the ancient Cathedral, with its numerous sanctified and heraldic ornaments: statue of St. Fechnan the founder, in the choir; seven crosses of a single stone each, with antique sculpture. Corcomroe Abbey, a few miles to the S.W., was the scene of many feudal battles between the O'Connors and O'Briens, of which there are some monuments. Near it is Ennistymond, a pleasant village, several Castles in ruins, particularly Inchiquin and Moyvore. The tourist must not omit the extensive and astonishing prospect from Hagshead, 1300 feet above the level of the ocean, exhibiting some of the grandest scenes of nature: near it were wrecked part of the Spanish Armada.

KILLALOE, 20 m. E. of Ennis,--stands in a hilly country on the Shannon, which rolls rapidly over an irregular bed of rock. A bridge of 18 arches leads to the town, after which the ascent is steep; but the Cathedral stands at the bottom close to the river, and lately fitted up in a modern style. The southern portal, North Chapel, is a most curious and well sculptured specimen of rich Gothic architecture, of a grotesque and irregular design, and, though evidently a doorway, has been considered by some persons as a monument. The font has some curious arabesque ornaments. See the Oratory, a curious specimen of the religious architecture of the Ostmen in the 9th century, and one of the oldest structures of wood and stone in the island. Its rude walls are not very high, but the gables are pyramidal and lofty; and a small room is still pretty entire, where devotees have long resorted to offer prayers and religious bribes to the patron saint, St. Molva. See the Salmon Fishery and Eel Weir. Whilst in this vicinity, visit Lough Derg, and notice the bay of Skariff with a wooded peninsula, and island of 20 acres called Holy Island, on which are a round tower 70 feet high, and the ruins of seven churches. See also the demesne of Mr. Parker at Castle Lough, which affords to the artist a series of extensive and charming views. Some caverns of limestone rock at Mitchel's Town. At Cancora see the earth-works of the ancient palace of the kings of Thomond, first erected by the famous Brian Boroimhe. O'Brien's Bridge, a village on the banks of the Shannon, with a bridge of 14 arches; sometimes called Montpellier, on account of its medicinal springs of a sulphureous nature, much frequented by company in the season. The country round not very picturesque, but improving in cultivation, with many genteel residences: yet if the traveller in his route from Killaloe to Limerick takes the road by Castle Connel, which however is rather a detour, he will be amply gratified by the interesting scenery. In the vale 2-1/2 m. from the springs, is Coolastigue Castle in ruins; a little further Rhin Row Castle; and beyond that Castle Troy, all emblems of the devastations of war and time. Nearer to Limerick stands Mount Shannon, the seat of Lord Clare.

KILRUSH, about 22 m. W. of Ennis, and towards the mouth of the Shannon,--has nothing remarkable, but forms a station for many surrounding objects of curiosity. Towards Buncragy is a magnificent prospect from the summit of a hill, called Paradise, looking up as high as Limerick. Near it is the picturesque island of Canna with ruins of an Abbey. Carrigaholt, about 15 m. W., has some remains of an old Castle, of which many legendary tales are in existence. Iniscattery Island, towards the mouth of the Shannon, contains the ruins of 7 churches out of 11 erected by St. Senanus, a disciple of St. Patrick; also a round tower 120 feet high. In monastic times the fair sex were excluded from this island: near it is Miltown Malbay, a watering place coming into fashion; its vicinity most interesting to the geologist: where see the Puffing Hole, a curious cavern pervious to the ocean, which exhibits various extraordinary phænomena.

SIXMILE BRIDGE, 15 m. E. of Ennis,--has nothing curious in itself; but see the seat of Mount Jevers, and 2 m. distant the ruins of the once famous Castle of Bunratty.

MINERALS.

Iron evidently exists in many parts of the county; as there are many chalybeate springs, particularly Ballykett, Fierd, and Monmore, in the western district: also manganese; some indications of coal; black limestone near the mouth of the Shannon; and the earths would doubtless repay the investigation of the mineralogist.

BOTANY.

_Adiantum Capillus Veneris_, True Maiden Hair:--on the rocky mountains of Burrin.

_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Matweed:--on the sandy beaches.

_Asclepias Vincetoxicum_, (Lin.) Swallow Wort:--on the rocky mountains of Burrin.

_Butomus umbellatus_, Flowering Rush:--in the vicinity of Clare and Correfin.

_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.

_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--found in Burrin on the limestone mountains in abundance, where scarce any other vegetable will exist.

_Gentiana verna_, Spring Gentian:--on limestone gravelly soils near Galway Bay.

_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--in mountainous districts.

_Ricinus communis_, (Lin.) _Palma Christi_, or Greater Spurge:--in Burrin.

_Rubus saxatilis_, Stone Bramble:--in the woods of Cratulagh.

_Satureja montana_, (Lin.) Winter Savory:--on the mountains of Burrin.

_Saxifraga granulata_, White Sengreen or Saxifrage:--in dry meadows and pastures in Burrin.

_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--near Corfin.

_Spiræa Filipendula_, Dropwort:--in Burrin barony.

_Teucrium Chamæpitys_, Ground Pine:--in the rocky mountains of Burrin.

CORK