Part 5

FAIRHEAD or BENMORE, 4 m. N.E. of Ballycastle.--Is a most interesting object, towering magnificently with its massive columns of basaltes, forming a line of coast the most fantastically beautiful that imagination can conceive. It is strongly characterized by the savage wildness of its cliffs, at whose foot the ocean rages with uncommon fury. Scarce a single mark of vegetation has yet crept over the hard rock to diversify its colour, but one uniform grayness pervades its scenery, contrasting exquisitely with Bengore, about 9 m. distant to the W. The tourist must visit the Fhirleath or Gray Man's Path, a deep chasm dividing the solitary promontory in twain, with its solid walls of rude and threatening columns upwards of 200 feet in perpendicular abruptness.

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, 8 m. W. from Ballycastle, and about 3 m. N. of Bushmills (the general station for tourists).--Is an object not to be described in small limits, being a most singular geological curiosity and one of Nature's most stupendous productions. Dr. Drummond briefly states it to consist of three moles, composed of basaltic columns projecting into the sea from the middle of the semicircular bay of Port Noffer; the longest of which, called the Grand Causeway, extends in a sloping direction from the base of the cliff about 300 feet, when it is lost in the ocean. The pillars of which the Causeway consists have been estimated at 30000; but that is too small a calculation. These are of different dimensions; 15 to 36 feet in height, and from 15 to 26 inches in diameter, chiefly pentagonal or hexagonal; each consists of joints or pieces concave and convex alternately at the ends. The pillars are a species of basaltes and kind of close grit, vitrifiable, of a dusky hue, contrasting finally with the surrounding verdant scenery, and continued, with interruptions, two miles along the precipitous shore. On the eastern side the Giant's Loom, a colonnade of 36 feet in height; and on the opposite cliff may be seen the Organ, so called from the resemblance to that instrument in the group of columns: also the Giant's Well, Chair, and Theatre, with the King and Parliament. Other objects of curiosity are,--the large rounded masses of irregularly prismatic basalt between the causeways, and the distinct globular concretions at Port Coon, a little to the westward: the curious whyn dyke at the head of the grand causeway: the generally romantic scenery of Port Noffer: then the cave of Port Coon, celebrated for its fine echo, continually resounding to the dash of the waves: the Cave of Dunkerry between Port Coon and the Bushfoot Strand, accessible only from the ocean, between two mural ridges of jet-black rock, with its lofty dome and sides overspread with a covering of green _confervæ_, suggesting the idea that it might have been scooped out of an emerald; a crimson zone of marine plants, five or six feet in breadth, surrounds and adorns it; and its extent has never yet been ascertained, its sides contracting into a narrow cleft where no boat can penetrate, but where the waves are heard rolling to a considerable distance.

GLENARM, 8 m. N. of Larne.--Castle of the Countess of Antrim, still venerable and magnificent, and on the site of an ancient Abbey: from the front is seen the Glen or Great Park 13 m. in circuit; extremely romantic and beautiful; consisting of wood and broken rock, with several waterfalls and salmon-leaps formed by a large serpentine river winding through the grounds, whilst its banks are adorned with various evergreens; myrtles, and the _arbutus_ or strawberry-tree almost continually in blossom. From the park are fine views of the sea; a distant prospect of the Abbey in ruins, and the scenery considerably enriched by the singular appearance of the adjacent mountains, which are cultivated in corn to their very summits. In its vicinity are many rude antiquities, supposed to be of Danish origin.

See the GLENS on the borders of Red Bay, with the ruins of Red Castle, 7 m. N. of Glenarm. The scenery around is very romantic, the village being secluded in a glen, where the limestone shores finely contrast with the azure ocean. To the northward is the site of Dunmall, a fortress where, tradition says, all the rent of Ireland was once paid; but its only memorials are a mound and fosse with the fragments of a wall. Beyond Garron Point see the curious grotesque rock called Clough-i-stookin, of chalky whiteness, bearing a striking resemblance to a female of gigantic stature: near it the ruins of a Castle on a caverned cliff, the echoes in which are curious: also Torr Point. On the beach near Glynn the _Anomia Gryphus_ and the _Vertebræ pentacrinites_ are found in abundance in a blue lime. To the N. of it stand the lofty and precipitous cliffs of Agnew's Hill, said to be the loftiest hill in the county. The vicinity of this romantic spot has been well described by Mr. Wakefield, who, on descending the hill to Cushendall, beholding on the one hand a cultivated mountain, and on the other a vale of rich land in a high state of tillage, declares that upon the whole a more extended and more delightful prospect of hill and dale intermixed in charming variety, is not often to be seen. He adds, that from Cushendall to Glenarm, passing Red Bay and coasting along the ocean, the whole way, the road exhibits the most romantic and beautiful scenery. On the one hand magnificent and widely extended views of the ocean, which on this coast rolls its swelling waves towards the shore with a peculiar and dangerous rapidity; and on the other, rocky mountains of considerable height, whose hanging cliffs, as the road extends partly up their sides, seem to threaten the traveller with destruction; and which in some places are thickly clothed with woods, through the openings between which the eye is sometimes surprised with the sight of a village as the road winds round the spacious bays and jutting promontories.

LOUGH NEAGH is the largest lake of fresh water in Europe, with the exception of Ladoga, Onega, and Geneva, being 20 m. by 12; and the country round it being level, the furthest shores cannot be distinguished from any part of its circumference; so that it resembles an ocean, particularly in stormy weather, when the waves break suddenly and are dangerous for boats. See Ram Island with its Round Tower: inquire for Gems, Crystals, and Petrifactions. The ride from Belfast, of about 16 m. is delightful; and nothing can be finer than the view bursting on the tourist from the top of Mount Devis, whether he contemplates Lough Neagh, or turns round to admire the extensive prospect over the County Down and Irish Channel, towards the Isle of Man, and even the distant mountains of Wales. Though this extensive inland sea receives no less than eight rivers, yet the only outlet to the whole collected mass of water is on the N.W. extremity, at Toom, whence passing through a small lake, Lough Beg, it forms the river Bann, which runs into the sea at Coleraine. The great disproportion between the outlet and the influx has given rise to a conjecture of subterraneous passages; but not the smallest indication of such a phenomenon has yet been discovered,--so that the great means of reduction must be by exhalation: to this it may be added, that in the dry season the efflux is so trifling as to be waded at Toom, where it is less than knee-deep; whilst on the other hand, in the wet season, most of the rivers being mountainous, the influx is so sudden and so greatly extensive, that 10,000 acres are often covered, which were dry in summer. The geologist may also notice the well-authenticated fact that, the Lough often interrupts its own course to the sea, by the quantities of sand and gravel which it deposits in the channel: all those impediments are frequently accelerated, though sometimes removed, by the casual direction and force of the winds: hence the dilatation and contraction have not been as yet reduced to any role; but the fact is certain that its strongest tendency is towards expansion, its actual encroachments being marked and known; for in one place it has encompassed one Ch., (Ballyscullen) drowned great part of the parish, and still seems gaining on the land. It must be remembered that this Lough is perhaps the shallowest piece of water in the world of such an extent, being no where deeper than 11 fathoms. The trade carried on upon the Lough has of late years received considerable additions from three navigable canals; one of which leads to Newry, where a river runs into the sea at Carlingford; the second, through Lisburn, gains the sea at Belfast; and the third takes a direction westerly, for inland purposes. In stormy weather the waves break so short and dash with such violence against the shoals at the foot of Shane's Castle, that the spray is said often to have dashed into the highest windows. In consequence of this, shipwrecks of the craft are not unfrequent.

PLEASKIN.--A Cape a little to the E. of Giant's Causeway; the most striking of all the semicircular precipices on this range of coast, in the opinion of Dr. Drummond and the ingenious but unfortunate Dr. Hamilton. In the sixteen different strata of which it is composed, beauty and sublimity are wonderfully blended and harmonised. Over a dark and rugged base fringed with incessant foam it lifts its sides adorned with various tints of green gray lichen, and vermilion rock, with a rapid declivity to about half its elevation, and thence becomes perpendicular. On a stratum of red ochre at the elevation of 200 feet, stands a magnificent gallery of basaltic columns, 44 feet in height, with others equally romantic; like a theatre of Nature harmoniously arranged, rock upon rock, gallery upon gallery, so magnificent, so solitary, and facing the wide Atlantic, as if formed for the temple of "spirits from the vasty deep!"

LARNE, 8 m. N. from Carrickfergus,--worth notice for the fine scenery round its harbour and vicinity. Redhall; Olderfleet, and various ancient Castles in ruins; several Cromlechs on the E. side of Brown's Bay, where is also the Giant's Cradle, a large stone so nicely balanced that a small force will put it in motion, though the utmost strength of many men cannot overturn it. See Ballygelly Promontory 3 m. with masses of prismatic basalt, where the pillars first commence: to the W. ruins of Cairn Castle on an insulated rock; and the Salagh Braes.

LISBURNE, 7 m. S.S.W. from Belfast.--Handsome, populous, and extensive, on the Lagan. Handsome Ch.; large Market-house; several neat Sectarian Chapels. Linen, diaper, and damask manufactories. 2 m. N.E. Lambeg with curious damask-works, and numerous bleach-greens. Near Lambeg numerous villas; Drum House and Ch.; Ballydrain, with lake and grounds; and the Giant's Ring, with round tower.

RANDALSTOWN, 88 m. from Dublin, 3 m. N.W. from Antrim.--A thriving town on the river Main. See Market-house and Assembly-rooms; also the scenery of Lough Neagh 2 m. distant. 3-1/2 m. N. is Kells, a pleasant village, with ruins of an ancient Ch.; 3 m. E. of which, the dilapidated village, once the city of Connor and still an episcopal see united to Down. See ruins of the Cathedral.

RATHLIN, or RAGHERY, a small island N. of Ballycastle.--See Doon Point; also the Tumulus on a plain in the centre, with stone coffins. The ruins of Bruce's Castle. Here also are seen optical aërial illusions, like the _fata morgana_ in the Straits of Messina.

TEMPLE PATRICK, 10 m. N.W. from Belfast.--Road to Antrim, on which route the tourist may enjoy some fine mountain scenery, including the Bay of Carrickfergus, backed by the majestic mountains of Mourne. Close to the village see Castle Upton, the castellated mansion of Lord Templetown, with handsome park and mausoleum. 4 m. S.E. is the rough fort, an ancient memorial of uncertain origin, but partly Danish, perhaps partly Druidical; with wild scenery in its vicinity; and on the road to Belfast is a complete chain of Danish raths.

MINERALS.

Basaltes:--along the coast from Belfast to Ballycastle.

Granite and porphyry:--in the glen between Devis and Collon mountains near Belfast.

Limestone:--very frequent throughout the county.

Coal:--near Ballycastle; containing pyrites.

Sandstone, and aluminous layers:--near Ballycastle; containing evident traces of zoophytes and other organic bodies.

Crystals:--very fine at Knocklaide mountain.

Calcedony variegated with marine plants:--frequent on the rocky shores.

Stalactites and tufa:--near Kinfane: also calcareous creeping stones near the Glynns.

BOTANY.

_Alopecurus pratensis_:--in the levels near Lough Neagh.

_Dactylis glomerata_, Cock'sfoot Grass:--meadows near Lisburn.

_Festuca fluitans_, Float Fescue:--bogs and wet grounds in the S. and W. parts of the county.

_Holcus lanatus_, White Grass:--springs up in turf bogs.

_Phleum pratense_, Timothy Grass:--Castle Dobbs and Island Magee.

_Plantugo_, Narrow-leaved Plantain:--to be met with in every field or meadow.

_Poa aquatica_:--in the wettest bogs, where only it will grow.

_Rhinanthus_, Yellow Rattle:--on dry soils.

ARMAGH

Is an inland county; the northern part bordering on Lough Neagh, consists of most extensive bogs of extraordinary depth and a remarkably black soil, and thereby affords no scenery worth attention. But in the immediate vicinity of the city of Armagh, the tourist is gratified by a richer prospect, where an abundant population finds employment in well inclosed and well cultivated fields. To the southward the appearance deteriorates, especially in that part called the Fews; a district of dark black mountains, where the hand of industry or the eye of taste has scarcely yet penetrated. Yet it is well worthy the notice of the picturesque tourist, from its alpine views, particularly round Slieve Gullien, which rivals the loftiest in England or Wales. In the vicinity of Armagh the soil is fertile, consisting generally of a rich brown loam with limestone and limestone gravel, and the appearance of the gently undulating grounds has been compared to eggs set in salt: bounded on the S.W. by Monaghan; W. by Tyrone; N. by Lough Neagh; E. by Down; S.E. by Louth. The two principal lakes are Carlough and Lough Clay.

ARMAGH, 62 m. from Dublin, the metropolitan see of all Ireland,--stands on the acclivity of a lofty mountain, the top occupied by the Cathedral which forms a fine object. The place is considerable; the new streets handsome. Archbishop's Palace adjoining the town, a modern edifice of unadorned simplicity: barracks large, airy, and even elegant: see the College; commodious Charter School: New Ch. of white stone with handsome spire: Public Infirmary, Public Library, and Observatory: curious market Cross. Examine improvements of the late Archbishop, aided by the judicious exertions of the present Primate. About 5 m. W. is Clonfeckle, on the borders of Tyrone, deserving the notice of the agricultural tourist as the residence and farm of Dr. Richardson, the cultivator of Fiorin grass. (_Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 319.) Also Lisnadell, 5 m. S. of Armagh: handsome Ch. and Glebe House, erected by the patriotic Archbishop Robinson. About 10 m. S. is Newton Hamilton, stated in tradition as the scene of a sanguinary battle between the great O'Neil and a chieftain of Louth, in consequence of the latter singeing the beard of his guest at a banquet, and in which O'Neil lost his life. See also near to it remains of an old Cromwellian encampment: and ruins of Black Bank Castle.

CHARLEMONT, 7 m. N. of Armagh.--A good town and military depôt. See the fort and barracks.

JONESBOROUGH, a small village, but a good station for the visitant of the wild mountain scenery in its vicinity, particularly Slieve Gullien. Rocks, caverns, glyns, from a bold ascent, are the features of the summit of this mountain, without the smallest appearance of any calcareous matter; and although there have not hitherto, says Sir C. Coote, been any minerals discovered here, yet there is a strong probability of their existence from the metallic tinge of the waters which burst from its sides, oozing in plentiful discharges even in the driest seasons. On its summit is a cairn of stones which form the roof of a cavern that at first view appears to be natural, but on minute investigation has evident testimony of being the work of art. The apartment is difficult of entrance, but is large within; and as there is a flagged way to the edge of the lake at the foot, it seems intended for other than sepulchral purposes. Sir C. Coote observes, that perhaps a bolder prospect is not presented by any mountain in Ireland than from its summit, comprising a great extent of country; the lakes and streams, the several towns and well-cultivated demesnes, together with the bay of Dundalk, where the declivity is terminated; these, with a thousand other natural beauties which are presented to view, will repay the fatigue of the ascent, and an awful and impressive pleasure is afforded in contemplating the bold promontories and rugged cliffs bared by the tempests, and arresting the floating meteors, throughout furnishing ample resources for the inquisitive philosopher.

LURGAN, about 14 m. N.E. from Armagh.--A large town, principally of one extensive and neatly kept street; surrounded by the linen manufacture, Ch. and Spire. See the house and handsome grounds of the Brownlow family, with good views of Lough Neagh. The mansion, an antique Castle.

MARKETHILL, a thriving town about 4 m. S.E. from Armagh, with good Inn.--In the Fews a wild, barren, but romantic district, the admirers of Dean Swift will be gratified in tracing many spots noticed by that eccentric character; especially Hamilton's Bawn, Gosford Castle, and Draper's Hill, about 1 m. distant. Throughout these wild and romantic mountains there is something very interesting, awful, and grateful, to the lover of nature, elevating the inquisitive mind, and inspiring a strong desire to explore their inmost recesses, and a desire to become familiar with so sublime a solitude. (_See further, Sir C. Coote's Survey of County_, p. 35.)

PORTADOWN, 3 m. S. of Lurgan,--is a neat town on the Bann, at the junction of the Newry canal with that river.

RICH HILL, about 4 m. N.E. from Armagh,--is a small village, but deserves notice for the beautiful residence of Sir Capel Molyneux at Castle Dillon, with extensive plantations, lakes, &c. and two handsome columns in honour of St. Patrick and the volunteers of Ireland. The appearance of the village itself is interesting, and considerably improved by the elegant demesne of Mr. Richardson, in full view of the street, with antique Castle. Proceed through a charmingly wooded country towards the Church of Kilmore, and thence by good roads to Loughgall village, where is Drummilly, an ancient mansion with extensive plantations.

TANDERAGEE, 10 m. E. of Armagh,--affords good specimens of the linen manufacture. Acton village, 5 m. S., the scene of many bloody contests in the feudal times, especially at Points Pass; and near to it is Scarvagh Pass on the borders of Down.

TYNAN, about 6 m. S.W. of Armagh,--stands pleasantly on an eminence near a river of the same name. See excellent Ch. and lofty steeple: also in the Church-yard an oblong stone of about 18 inches square and 4 feet long, set upon a large block stone, and capped with another, divided into square compartments, and having vestiges of sculpture. 1 m. ruins of ancient Castle. About 6 m. S. Keady, a small village on the river Callen, crowded with mills and bleach-greens. See the handsome Ch., also the rich lead-mines.

MINERALS.

Lead:--in the vicinity of Tynan; rich ore.

Iron exists, at least in small quantities, as evinced by the chalybeate springs in the mountainous districts.

Fossils are stated, in the _County Survey_, to be in great variety, as yet little known, but affording ample investigation to the geologist.

BOTANY.

_Colchicum autumnale_, Meadow Saffron:--on the borders of the Blackwater and Callen rivers.

_Euphrasia_, Eyebright:--in low grounds near the Lough.

_Hippuris_, Marestail:--at the mouth of the Bann.

_Iris_, or Flag:--on the banks of the river Callen.

_Lobelia Dortmanna_, Water Gladiole:--in Lough Neagh.

_Mentha aquatica_, Water Mint:--common in low grounds.

_Menyanthes_, Purple Buckbean:--beautiful specimens in various places.

_Nymphæa_, Water Lily (White and Yellow):--on the borders of Lough Neagh, and in muddy ditches.

_Parnassia_, Grass of Parnassus:--on Tynan river.

_Phellandrium aquaticum_:--on the banks of Cushier and Blackwater rivers.

_Potamogeton natans_, Pondweed:--in stagnant waters near Lough Neagh.

_Ranunculus_, Crowfoot:--in the marshy grounds.

_Scrophularia aquatica_, Water Figwort:--on the banks of Newry Water.

_Senecio paludosus_, Bird's Tongue:--in low marshes.

_Subularia aquatica_, Awlwort:--under the water in Lough Neagh.

_Thalictrum flavum_, Meadow Rue:--on the lake side near summit of Slieve Gullien.

_Typha angustifolia_, Narrow-leaved Catstail:--very common.

CARLOW

Is a small county; interesting to the picturesque tourist from the variety, if not from the sublimity of its scenery; but even in that he may be gratified whilst rambling amidst the mountainous chain from Mount Leinster to Blackstairs on the S., a district awfully grand and majestic, and the range impassable except at Scullogh Gap, resembling the Ghauts or passes in the mountains of India. In the western part of the county also, on the banks of the Barrow, the rugged mountainous range is beautifully fringed with timber, even to the summits of some of its loftiest hills, agreeably chequered by cultivation, and studded with the mansions of opulence, whose snow-white chimneys peeping through the foliage give earnest of the national hospitality that reigns amongst them. Indeed all writers agree, that some of the most beautiful and picturesque scenery in Ireland is to be met with in this division of the county and around the town of Carlow. It is a curious remark of Mr. Wakefield respecting this county, that it has neither a temporal nor spiritual peer resident within it; and yet, though destitute of manufactures, it is tenanted by more wealthy people than almost any other county in the island. It is worthy of remark also, that the fee has been transferred more here than in any other part of the country, and that a great part of it belonged formerly to Quakers. Bounded on the N. by Kildare, E. by Wicklow and Wexford, S. by Kilkenny, W. by Queen's County.