The Scientific Tourist through Ireland in which the traveller is directed to the principal objects of antiquity, art, science & the picturesque

Part 4

Chapter 43,228 wordsPublic domain

In ULSTER, 9. |_Ht._|_Cf._|_Th._|_Dr._ +-----+-----+-----+----- _Antrim_, near *Antrim, at a place called | | | | Steeple. | | | | at Armoy. | | | | in *Ram Island, in Lough Neagh | | | | _Cavan_, at Drumlane. | | | | _Down_, at *Drumbo. | | | | at *Maghera, half only is standing | | | | _Fermanagh_, in *Devenish Island, in | | | | Lough Erne | 76 | 41 | 3-6 | _Monaghan_, at Clones. | | | | at *Eniskeen. | | | | | | | | In LEINSTER, 26. | | | | | | | | _Dublin_, at *Clondalkin | 84 | | | at *Lusk. | | | | at Rathmichael. | | | | at *Swords | 73 | 55 | 4-8 | 2 _Kildare_, at *Castledermot. | | | | at *Killcullen | 40 | 44 | 3-6 | 7 at *Kildare | 132 | 54 | 3-6 | 13 at Oughterard | 25 | 48 | 3 | 8 at Taghadoe | 71 | 38 | 3-8 | 11-6 _Kilkenny_, at *Aghavuller, part only | | | | remaining. | | | | at Fertagh, alias Beggar's Inn | 112 | 48 | 3-8 | 10 at *Kilkenny, or rather in | | | | Irishtown. | | | | at Kilree. | | | | at Tulloherin. | | | | _King's County_, at *Clonmacnoise--two | | | | _Louth_, at *Dromiskin, part of one | 130 | | | at *Monasterboice | 110 | 51 | 3-6 | 6 _Meath_, at *Donaghmore. | | | | at *Kells | 99 | 48 | 3 | _Monaghan_, at Clones--one perfect, one | | | | ruinous. | | | | _Queen's County_, at *Dysert. | | | | at *Timahoe | 35 | 53 | 4-4 | 14 _Wicklow_, at Glandelough--two, one of | | | | them perfect. | | | | | | | | In MUNSTER, 14. | | | | | | | | _Clare_, at *Drumcliff. | | | | at *Dysart. | | | | in Iniscalthra, in Lough Deirgeart | | | | in Scattery Isle, in the Shannon | 120 | | | _Cork_, at *Cloyne | 92 | 50 | 3-8 | 13 at *Ballybeg, the stump of one. | | | | at Kineth | 70 | | | _Kerry_, at *Aghadoe. | | | | at Rattoo. | | | | _Limerick_, at *Dysert. | | | | at *Kilmallock. | | | | _Tipperary_, at *Cashel on the Rock | | 54 | 4 | 11 at *Roscrea | 80 | 45 | | _Waterford_, at Ardmore | 100 | 45 | | | | | | In CONNAUGHT, 9. | | | | | | | | _Galway_, at Feartamore. | | | | at *Kilmacduagh | 112 | 57 | | 24 _Mayo_, at Aghagower. | | | | at Ballagh. | | | | at *Killalla. | | | | at *Melick. | | | | at *Turlough | 70 | 45 | | 29 _Roscommon_, at Oran. | | | | _Sligo_, at *Drumcliffe, the ruin of one. | | | |

These towers are all standing; there were five others still perfect within a few years.

1. Co. Down, at _Downpatrick_, lately taken down[3], was 66 feet high, 47 in circumference.

[3] The round tower of Downpatrick was taken down, in order to enlarge the west end of the cathedral, which is now repairing, after having lain in ruins for a great number of years. And it is very remarkable, that under the foundations of this tower, were found the vestiges of a more ancient church, which appears to have been of exceeding good masonry, and upon a larger scale than the present old fabrick; in the walls of which there are many pieces of cut stone, that have evidently been used in some former building. The same circumstance may also be observed in several of the ruined churches at Clonmacnoise.

2. Co. Dublin, in _Ship-street_, Dublin, destroyed a few years since.

3. Co. Cork, at _Cork_, pulled down about fifty years.

4. Ditto, at _Brigown_, not long down.

5. Co. Kerry, at _Ardfert_, which fell in 1770.

A very ingenious friend remarks[4], that almost all our round towers are divided into stories of different heights; the floors supported in some by projecting stones, in others, joists put in the wall at building, and in many they are placed upon rests. The last are from four to six inches, carried round and taken off the thickness of the wall in the story above; and he very probably conjectures that these rests do not diminish the thickness of the wall as they ascend, because then it would not have been sufficiently strong to bear storms or support the conical cap which was generally solid and heavily constructed. They seem therefore to be swellings in the wall which rather add to its thickness upwards, and this Mr. Cooper confirms by the round tower at _Lusk_, whose wall is three feet thick at top. _Cashel_ tower is divided into five stories, with holes for joists.

[4] From Ledwich's _Antiquities of Ireland_.

_Fertagh_ has five stories and one rest.--_Kilcullen_ has three stories and one rest.--_Kildare_ has six stories and projecting stones for each.--_Monasterboice_ has six stories and projecting stones.--_Oughterard_ has five stories and projecting stones.--_Taghadoe_ has six stories, the upper has projecting stones, the others rests.--_Timahoe_ has seven stories, the second has projecting stones, the others rests.

The door of _Cashel Tower_ faces the S.E., those of _Kildare_ and _Kilkenny_ the S., and the others vary.

Four small windows were placed at the top of _Kells Tower_ pointing to the four cardinal points.

_Kenith Tower_ stands 124 feet--_Drumbo_ 20 feet--_Downpatrick_ 48 feet--_Kildare_ 90 feet--_Kilkenny_ 8 feet--_Dromiskin_ 90 feet, from their respective Churches. _Ardmore_, _Castledermot_, _Cloyne_, and other _Towers_ were formerly and at present are used for belfries.

GLOSSARY,

_Or Explanation of some of those Irish Words which most frequently occur in composition with the names of places._

_Agh_, a Field.

_Anagh_ or _Ana_, a River.

_Ard_, a high Place, or rising Ground.

_Ath_, a Ford.

_Awin_, a River.

_Bally_ or _Ballin_, a Town, or inclosed place of habitation.

_Ban_ or _Bane_, White, or Fair.

_Beg_, Little.

_Ben_, the summit of a Mountain, generally an abrupt head.

_Bun_, a Bottom, Foundation, or Root.

_Car_ or _Cahir_, a city.

_Carrick_, _Carrig_, _Carrow_, a Rock or Stony Place.

_Cork_, _Corcagh_, a Marsh, or swampy Ground.

_Clara_, a Plain.

_Croagh_, _Croghan_, a sharp pointed Hill resembling a Rick.

_Clogh_, _Clough_, a great Stone.

_Curragh_, a marshy or fenny Plain.

_Clon_, a Glade, or a level Pasture Ground.

_Col_, _Cul_, a Corner.

_Derry_, a clear dry Spot in the midst of a woody swamp.

_Don_, a Height or Fastness, a Fortress.

_Donagh_, a Church.

_Drom_, a high narrow Ridge of Hills.

_Inch_, _Inis_, an Island.

_Ken_, a Head.

_Kill_, a Church or Cemetery.

_Knock_, a single Hill, or a Hillock.

_Lick_, a flat stone.

_Lough_, a Lake, or a Pool.

_Magh_, a Plain.

_Main_, a Collection of Hillocks.

_More_, large, great.

_Rath_, a Mount or Entrenchment, a Barrow.

_Ross_, a Point of Land projecting into Waters.

_Shan_, Old.

_Sliebh_, a range of Mountain, a Hill _covered with Heath_.

_Tach_, a House.

_Temple_, a Church.

_Tom_, _Toom_, a Bush.

_Tra_, a Strand.

_Tobar_, _Tubber_, a Well or Spring.

_Tullagh_, a gentle Hill, a Common.

_Tully_, a Place subject to Floods.

TABLE _showing the Difference in Value of_ ENGLISH _and_ IRISH CURRENCY.

English Money exchanged into ||Irish Money exchanged into Irish, at Par: One Pound || English, at Par: 1Ɩ. 1s. 8d. English being 1Ɩ. ls. 8d. Irish.|| Irish being 1Ɩ. English. -----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+-------- Eng. | Irish |Eng.| Irish ||Irish| English |Irish|English -----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+-------- £ | £ s. d.| s. | s. d. q. || £ | £ s. d. q.| s. |s. d. q. 900 |975 0 0 | 3 | 3 3 0 || 900 |830 15 4 2 | 4 | 3 8 1 800 |866 13 4 | 4 | 4 4 0 || 800 |738 9 2 3 | 5 | 4 7 1 700 |758 6 8 | 5 | 5 5 0 || 700 |646 3 0 3 | 6 | 5 6 1 600 |650 0 0 | 6 | 6 6 0 || 600 |553 16 11 0 | 7 | 6 5 2 500 |541 13 4 | 7 | 7 7 0 || 500 |461 10 9 0 | 8 | 7 4 2 400 |433 6 8 | 8 | 8 8 0 || 400 |369 4 7 1 | 9 | 8 3 2 300 |325 0 0 | 9 | 9 9 0 || 300 |276 18 5 2 | 10 | 9 2 3 200 |216 13 4 |10 |10 10 0 || 200 |184 12 3 2 | 11 |10 1 3 100 |108 6 8 |11 |11 11 0 || 100 | 92 6 1 3 | 12 |11 0 3 90 | 97 10 0 |12 |13 0 0 || 90 | 83 1 6 1 | 13 |12 0 0 80 | 86 13 4 |13 |14 1 0 || 80 | 73 16 11 0 | 14 |12 11 0 70 | 75 16 8 |14 |15 2 0 || 70 | 64 12 3 2 | 15 |13 10 0 60 | 65 0 0 |15 |16 3 0 || 60 | 55 7 8 1 | 16 |14 9 0 50 | 54 3 4 |16 |17 4 0 || 50 | 46 3 0 3 | 17 |15 8 1 40 | 43 6 8 |17 |18 5 0 || 40 | 36 18 5 2 | 18 |16 7 1 30 | 32 10 0 | |19 6 0 || 30 | 27 13 10 0 | 19 |17 6 1 20 | 21 13 4 | d. | || 20 | 18 9 2 3 | d. | 10 | 10 16 8 | 1 | 0 1 0 || 10 | 9 4 7 1 | 1 | 0 0 3 9 | 9 15 0 | 2 | 0 2 0 || 9 | 8 6 1 3 | 2 | 0 1 3 8 | 8 13 4 | 3 | 0 3 1 || 8 | 7 7 8 1 | 3 | 0 2 3 7 | 7 11 8 | 4 | 0 4 1 || 7 | 6 9 2 3 | 4 | 0 3 2 6 | 6 10 0 | 5 | 0 5 1 || 6 | 5 10 9 0 | 5 | 0 4 2 5 | 5 8 4 | 6 | 0 6 2 || 5 | 4 12 3 2 | 6 | 0 5 2 4 | 4 6 8 | 7 | 0 7 2 || 4 | 3 13 10 0 | 7 | 0 6 1 3 | 3 5 0 | 8 | 0 8 2 || 3 | 2 15 4 2 | 8 | 0 7 1 2 | 2 3 4 | 9 | 0 9 3 || 2 | 1 16 11 0 | 9 | 0 8 1 1 | 1 1 8 |10 | 0 10 3 || 1 | 0 18 5 2 | 10 | 0 9 0 Sh.| |11 | 0 11 3 || Sh. | | 11 | 0 10 0 19 | 1 0 7 |q. | || 1 | 0 0 11 0 | q. | 1 | 0 1 1 | 1 | 0 6 1 || 2 | 0 1 10 0 | 1 | 0 0 1 2 | 0 2 2 | 2 | 0 0 2 || 3 | 0 2 0 0 | 2 | 0 0 2 | | 3 | 0 0 3 || | | 3 | 0 0 0

Description of FRONTISPIECE and other PLATES, with Directions for placing them.

_Frontispiece_ _Irish Antiquities_, viz.

1.--Oratory near Killaloe, supposed the oldest and most curious Monuments in Ireland; they are also to be seen at Glendaloch, Co. of Wicklow; St. Doulach's near Dublin; at Cashel, Co. of Tipperary; and Portaferry, Co. of Down. Vide _Killaloe, Co. of Clare._

2.--Round Tower, a species of building peculiar to Ireland; that at Swords is here represented. Vide _Swords, Co. Dublin._

3.--Sculptured Cross at Monasterboice, 18 feet high, of which Character there are several in Ireland--Vide _Drogheda, Co. of Louth._

4.--Chapel, Round Tower, and Cathedral, at Cashel--distant view. The Chapel is considered one of the most curious in the kingdom. The situation and antiquity of this place, as well as its picturesque beauty, constitute it a place of much interest. Vide _Cashel, Co. of Tipperary._

5.--Hook Tower, founded upon a rock, surrounded by precipices on one side and shelving rocks on the other; the walls are of amazing thickness, with stairs to the top. This is similar to Reginald's Tower, Waterford, and other Danish Round Towers, or Forts, dispersed over the kingdom. Vide _Fethard, Co. of Wexford._

6.--Giant's Causeway. Vide _Co. of Antrim._

7.--Mountains as they appear in the distance from Dunlow Castle, Lake of Killarney. Vide _Killarney, Co. of Kerry._

The Vignette.

Map of Ireland _To face Antrim._

View from Warren's Point, near Narrow Water, Newry. _To face Newry, Co. of Down._

View of Dublin from the Circular Road in the environs, with Richmond or Sarah Bridge in the foreground _To face the City of Dublin, on the 2d page of Co. Dublin._

Map and Plan of the Lakes of Killarney, and surrounding objects _To face Killarney, Co. of Kerry._

View of the Lake and Mountain at Killarney from Lord Kenmare's seat _To face 4th Page of Co. of Kerry._

View of Eagles Nest, and site of wonderful Echo--Lake of Killarney _To face 6th Page of Co. of Kerry._

Carlingford Harbour and Castle--a brisk gale _To face Carlingford, Co. of Louth._

Glendaloch, or Valley of Seven Churches. _To face Glendaloch, Co. of Wicklow._

ANTRIM.

42 m. from N. to S. 24 from E. to W. containing 430,000 Irish acres; bounded by the sea on the N. and E., by Down on the S. by Lough Neagh and Derry on the W. It contains much diversified scenery; is mountainous on the northern, and eastern coasts, but extends into fertile plains in the interior. Its great extent of sea coast affords every variety in science and the picturesque; mountains wild, covered with heath and bog, or frowning in abrupt and rugged cliffs; towards Lough Neagh all the mild beauties of cultivation: the vale of the Lagan, between Belfast and Lisburn, cannot be surpassed for beauty, cultivation, elegant villas, bleach-greens, and comfortable cottages, with all the varieties of hill, dale, wood, and water, by any tract of equal extent in the empire. Its ancient inhabitants were the _Darni_, succeeded by the _Dalriadi_, afterwards by the _Ostmen_, and finally by English and Scottish settlers. Lofty hills afford great amusement to the botanist and geologist, particularly the range near Belfast, amongst which Devis is 1400 ft. high; the Cave Hill 1140; Carmony 790; and the Knockagh 903. These and others consist principally of a compact body of limestone rock, over which, extending along the whole coast as far as the Giant's Causeway, a diffusion of vitrifiable stone has been superinduced in a state of softness, now forming a hard basalt, resting generally on a base of variegated sandstone dipping to the W.

ANTRIM, 16 m. from Belfast, 84 m. from Dublin.--On the banks of the Six-mile Water, near its confluence with Lough Neagh, see the Castle, a seat of the Massarene family. 2 m. W. ruins of Shane's Castle; near it, the field where a furious battle was fought in the late rebellion, in which Lord O'Neil fell by the hand of ingratitude; round tower. This ancient Castle has lately become a mass of ruins, in consequence of a most destructive fire; yet it is still worth visiting, being beautifully seated on the banks of Lough Neagh, facing the S.W. the waters of which formerly washed its walls, but were some years ago fenced off by an embankment, on which was erected a handsome green-house. Nothing can be more majestic than the view from the Castle of the vast expanse of water, and the neighbouring banks considerably enriched with trees and verdure, through which are many charming walks and rides. The demesne and park are of great extent, through which a fine stream runs, taking its rise from a small lake 10 m. distant. Near the small lake is an elegant cottage called Remon Lodge, originally fitted up for retirement and shooting-parties, shaded with large venerable trees, and altogether a delightful sequestered spot.

BALLINDERRY, 14 m. S.W. of Belfast.--Neat village. Good station for Lough Neagh; ruins of Portmore Castle. 3 m. N. in the Lough, Ram's Island with a round tower.

BALLYCASTLE, 47 m. N. from Belfast.--Improving sea-port town, with a Colliery. Ruins of the old Castle; Abbey; and Gobbin's Heir, 1 m. S.E. See the Coal-pits and Kelp-works: also the ancient Coal-mine or Gallery lately discovered, supposed to be Danish. Chalybeate Spa. Danish Raths. Romantic scenery round the cliffs, with Raghery Island 6 m. N. in the distant horizon, presenting to the eye of taste, in a fine evening, a singular prospect, with its chalky cliffs crowned by a venerable covering of brown rock, broken into beautiful and picturesque variety by the turbulent ocean. On the road to Portrush a singular little fishing rock, always an object of interest to tourists, called Carrick-a-Rede; connected to the main land by an extraordinary flying bridge over an abrupt and romantic chasm 60 feet in breadth. See also the White Rocks about 1 m. E. from Port Rush, well worth examining, with a beautiful calcareous façade extending about 1/2 a m., capriciously hollowed into a vast number of magnificent caves of various sizes. Also the cliffs of Craigmillar. 5 m. S. Ardmoy village, with neat Ch. and curious round tower: on the road on the right, ruins of an old Castle. See Knocklede, recently a volcano, and Kinfane Castle.

BALLYMENA, 8 m. N. of Antrim.--See Gilgorm Castle, and the Moravian settlement at Grace-hill. Slemish mountain, an interesting object. 5 m. N. is Clough, a small neat village. See the Ch., plain but handsome, with ruins of two Castles.

BALLYMONY, 23 m. N. from Antrim.--Thriving village by linen manufacture. 4 m. N. village of Dervock, with the beautiful seats of Belleisle and Cloverhill. 6 m. E. is Lough Guill. See Ch., and Lissanoure Castle on the banks of the lake, a most romantic mansion and grounds.

BELFAST, 84 m. N. from Dublin.--Flourishing commercial town at head of Carrickfergus Bay. Elegant Ch. and Chapel-of-ease. House of Industry. White and brown Linen-Halls. Academical Institution. Bridge of 21 arches over Lagan, with romantic prospect of the bay and surrounding hills. Exchange and Assembly Rooms. Various charitable Institutions. Philosophical and Musical Societies; the latter for revival of the Harp. Quays and Docks. Glass-houses and Iron-founderies. 3 m. N. the Cave-hill, with caves and romantic scenery, and a most extensive prospect from its summit. Delightful ride towards Carrickfergus, with numerous seats and villas; several Danish raths, and the ruins of White Abbey. 5 m. S.E. of Belfast, near Ballydrain, is the Giant's Ring, an extensive circular earthen mound 2256 feet in circumference, with a Druidical Cromlech in the centre. Near it Collin and Devis mountains, with ancient caves called the "Picts," and fine view of Lough Neagh: across the Lagan 3 m. is the elegant seat of Belvoir.

BENGORE HEAD,--the most northern extremity of the island, and an object in the tour to Giant's Causeway, which it much resembles.

BUSH MILLS, 8 m. N.E. from Coleraine.--The nearest accommodation for the Giant's Causeway. 3 m. N.E. Ruins of Dunluce Castle on a romantic cliff. 3-1/2 m. N.W. the seat of ancient Irish chieftains, and surrounded by the scenery of Ossian's first poem. Take a boat for view of the coast.

CARRICKFERGUS, 8 m. N.E. of Belfast, the county and assize town.--Ancient Castle built by Hugh Lacy, Earl of Ulster, in 1178. Ch. with monuments of the Donnegall family. New Court-house and Gaol. Some remains of an ancient monastery: ancient walls and pier where K. William landed. Romantic scenery towards the N.E. and Island Magee, including Castle Dobbs, and Kilroot where Thurot landed. 3 m. N.W. ruins of Abbey at Monks Town, where tradition points out the grave of King Fergus.

CUSHENDUN, 10 m. from Glenarm.--A small village in a romantic bay; grotesque caves, and a caverned rock on which Red Castle stands: it presents several specimens of whyn dykes to the geologist, containing veins of calcareous spar mixed with coarse-grained basaltes. Between it and Glenarm, about half way, rises the sharp promontory of Garron Point, exhibiting a beautifully diversified trapose outline, and projecting far into the sea, on a limestone base wrought into caverns by the restless surge. A little N. of the point is the romantic vale of Glenariff, containing red sandstone, porphyry intermixed with veins of jasper, and a curious breccia or pudding-stone; but, to the sentimental traveller it is even more interesting; for here he may conceive himself in the genuine country of Ossian, as nearly every romantic object in the vicinity bears a name connected with that hero.

DUNLUCE CASTLE, 5 m. W. of Bushmills.--The most striking ruin on the coast; on an isolated, abrupt rock, perforated by the waves which have formed under it a very spacious cavern. The approach to it is along a narrow wall; but it well repays the risk; its dark basaltic walls marked with the mellow tints of time, in some places forming a perpendicular line with the rock on which it stands, whilst its commanding situation, its numerous gables and turrets, (resembling the ruins of a village destroyed by fire,) excite a high idea of its former magnificence, and a feeling of regret for its lost splendour. It was built probably by De Courcey, afterwards enlarged by native chieftains, and finally by the Macdonnels in the time of Elizabeth. Though in total ruin, a particular chamber is said to be haunted, and to be the favourite abode of Mave Roe, a Banshee or such fictitious personage, who sweeps it every night; but, as Dr. Drummond observes, the sweeping winds that rush through that and the other desolate apartments, will sufficiently account for the cleanness of the room without the aid of supernatural agency.