The Scientific Tourist through Ireland in which the traveller is directed to the principal objects of antiquity, art, science & the picturesque

Part 3

Chapter 32,612 wordsPublic domain

Before entering on this part of the investigation, the scientific tourist will do well to read Mr. Aiton's pamphlet on Moss Earth, where he will meet with many interesting hints for research. Even the antiquary will not pass these immense tracts unnoticed, since much light has been thrown upon the earlier periods of Irish history by the discovery of curious antiques at considerable depths, by the peat cutters. Some iron heads of arms, wooden bowls, three sacks full of nuts, and a coat of ancient texture and construction, were in 1737 dug from under a moss fifteen feet deep; all of which were in a high state of perfection. Indeed Mr. Aiton observes, that the singular antiseptic qualities of moss extend to every thing buried under its surface. Wood, when exposed to the atmosphere, or buried under any other earth, will be totally decomposed or annihilated in a few years; but if it is enveloped in moss before putrefaction has made much progress upon it, it will remain but little impaired for many centuries. The underside of moss timber is generally found entire; and Mr. Aiton is of opinion, that the progress which corruption has made on the upper side of many specimens, must have taken place before the moss, in its progress of growth, rose above the trees. Facts of this kind may very properly lead to observations of the means of preventing the dry rot in timber; and the chemical tourist may devote an hour most usefully to the analysis of those substances which are found in the immediate vicinity of those fossil trees in the highest state of preservation.

Basaltes is another substance which deserves the notice of the tourist; for, though not peculiar to Ireland, it is perhaps more interesting here than in any other country, nature presenting it under the most awful forms; sometimes piled up in immense structures of stupendous height and extent, where its columns are arranged in various directions, as if deposited in regular series by the hand of men. It is principally however in the N.E. district that it is so found, extending from Carrickfergus-bay to Lough-Foyle, on the sea coast, and inland even to the southern shores of Lough-Neagh.

Granite forms the great bed of Ireland, and is seen bursting out in all the great ranges of mountains; not only in the central parts of the kingdom, but also in the basaltic district.

Ochres, both red and yellow, are found in considerable quantities in many places. Fuller's-earth has already been mentioned: there are also several other saponaceous earths, particularly near the Old-Head of Kinsale in the county of Cork.

Slates are found in most parts of Ireland; and flag-stones are worked in great quantities in many districts.

The tourist whose time does not admit of much mineralogical research, may yet be amply gratified on that subject whilst in Dublin, by examining the collection at the Society's house.

Before starting on an Irish tour, the traveller will naturally be anxious to know what kind of weather he may expect. To this we shall answer shortly in the words of Mr. Aldworth of Cork, in a communication to Mr. Wakefield, wherein he observes that, as an old agriculturist, he is inclined to think that less rain falls in the interior of Ireland than in any of the other British Isles, and yet perhaps there are more wet days there than in the latter; a circumstance which certainly interferes with travelling in an open carriage. As the showers however, though frequent, are not, generally speaking, of very long duration, this inconvenience may be easily guarded against. To this we may add, that the winds which most usually prevail in Ireland blow from the west: they are mild in their temperature, and moist in their nature; but far from being insalubrious. It has also been well observed by the Rev. Horace Townshend, after a long residence, that along the sea coast the winter is disarmed of its severity by the softness of the southern wind, which mitigates the rigour of the frost, and seldom suffers the heaviest snow to remain many hours undissolved, except on the north sides of the high hills. This observation, however, applies principally to the southern coast; where also the sea breeze tempers the summer's warmth by its refreshing breath; so that the greatest degree of heat, as well as cold, is found in the northern districts of the island. The whole island is remarkably bare of trees, and exhibits a naked appearance; which is more striking to a traveller whose eye has been familiarized to the woody counties of England. Yet the varied aspect arising from the frequency of sea views, combined with the rude but grand scenery of the mountains, and the different tints they assume according to their distance, produces a number of beautiful and diversified prospects.

The ENTOMOLOGIST will also be certain of finding numerous sources of amusement. Mr. Hall, in his Tour, vol. 2. p. 268, asserts that with a tolerable glass, one sees animals grazing, like cattle in a meadow, on the leaves of every vegetable, and these also much larger than in Great Britain.

Some tourists have been deterred from penetrating into the wildest parts of the island, by prejudices founded on misrepresentation and ignorance; but little cause for alarm exists if the tourist chooses to conduct himself with a little civility to the poor ignorant peasantry whom he shall meet, even in the loneliest places. On this subject, Mr. Wakefield records the fact, that when in the county of Mayo, he was advised not to cross a particular district in his way to Roscommon; he, however, experienced no inconvenience, except from the hardness of the roads and his ignorance of the Irish language, there universally spoken. With respect to the conveniences of travelling, we must not lead the tourist astray by inducing him to believe that, except upon the great frequented roads, he will meet with any thing like the accommodations so general in England. But if he can patiently bear with minor difficulties, he may pursue his route over great part of the island by mail and stage-coaches, and in general by post-chaises, if not provided with his own horses or carriages. The Inns, indeed, will often disappoint him, both in accommodation and cleanliness; yet he may always be certain of clean sheets, and his culinary comforts are clean, if he can content himself with plain dishes. Travelling however is so unfrequent, that in many places, when a visitor does arrive at an inn, he appears to be considered as an inexhaustible gold mine, not only by the landlord, but also by the numerous host of retainers, many of whom he never sees until going away. Before we take leave of the tourist, it may be proper to offer him a few hints from Sir R. C. Hoare's Work, which will be extremely useful to him.

If he chooses to go to the expense of his own carriage and horses, he will certainly ensure to himself much independence; especially if he takes care to select a judicious route. For a party also, this would perhaps be as cheap a mode as can well be adopted. But if he is a single traveller, or with one companion, and not averse to pedestrianism, then he may find a general facility by taking the direct and cross coaches from station to station, hiring horses for long excursions, and walking those of a shorter range. Before leaving Dublin, Belfast, or Waterford, the three points from whence an English tourist is likely to start, let him make a fair calculation of time and distance, allow a certain sum per mile and a certain sum per day, and then supply his purse with the paper and coined currency most likely to answer in the district he intends to visit. This he will not find difficult at the places mentioned, or indeed at any of the larger towns; but let him be on his guard against bad money and forged notes; and also, if he has any Irish currency left at the end of his tour, let him change it for English when setting off to return.

It now only remains to add, that every writer, both ancient and modern, on the subject of Ireland, has been consulted; aided by the communications of friends and a general personal knowledge of the Topography of Ireland on the part of the Editor.

The tourist will observe that the distances are given in Irish miles, of which, eleven are equal to fourteen English. The distances of the county towns from the capital are taken on the authority of the latest surveys; whilst the distances in the vicinage of the several stations are from common computation or from the best maps, and may be depended on for every useful purpose to the inquisitive traveller, bearing in mind that bogs and mountains often render roads circuitous, in which cases local inquiry, and also for the best roads, will often be beneficial, and sometimes necessary. Reference to many of the authorities will be found in the work itself; but it may be added that the county surveys have been carefully examined and compared with earlier descriptions, independent of the general notices from Hoare, Hall, Plumptre, Curwen, Drummond, Weld, and all the recent topographical works, together with several recent anonymous tours, whose proved accuracy, in many points, renders them worthy of notice in all.

TOPOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND,

_With the Baronies, Parishes, and Contents in Irish Acres._

_Baron._ _Parish._ _Acres._ { *Armagh contains 5 20 181,450 { Down 8 60 348,550 ULSTER. { Antrim 8 77 387,200 _9 Counties._ { Londonderry 4 31 318,500 8298 { Donnegal 5 42 679,550 square miles. { *Tyrone 4 35 463,700 { Fermanagh 8 18 283,450 { *Cavan 7 30 301,000 { *Monaghan 5 19 179,600 -- --- ---------- 54 332 3,143,000 _Lough Neagh_ covers 58,200 ---------- 3,201,200 ----------

{ Louth 4 61 110,750 { Meath 12 147 327,900 { Dublin 6 107 142,050 { Wicklow 6 58 311,600 LEINSTER. { Wexford 8 142 342,900 _12 Counties._ { *Kilkenny 9 127 300,350 6936 { *Carlow 5 50 137,050 square miles. { *Kildare 10 113 236,750 { *Queen's County 8 50 235,300 { *King's County 11 52 282,200 { *Westmeath 12 62 231,550 { *Longford 6 23 134,150 -- --- --------- 97 992 2,792,550 -- --- ---------

CONNAUGHT. { Galway 16 116 989,950 _5 Counties._ { Mayo 9 68 790,600 7125 { Sligo 6 39 247,150 square miles. { Leitrim 5 17 255,950 { *Roscommon 6 56 346,650 -- --- --------- 42 296 2,630,300 -- --- ---------

{ Cork 16 269 1,048,800 MUNSTER. { Kerry 8 83 647,650 _6 Counties._ { Clare 9 79 476,200 9000 { Limerick 9 125 386,750 square miles. { *Tipperary 10 186 554,950 { Waterford 7 74 262,800 -- --- --------- 69 816 3,377,150 --- ----- ---------- 252 2,436 12,001,200†

* The thirteen _inland_ counties are distinguished by an asterisk.

† All fractions having been excluded from this calculation, it is very much _under_ the full number of acres in Ireland.

An Irish Acre contains 7840 square yards. Scotch 6130 ditto. English 4840 ditto.

From Port Patrick to Donaghadee 25 English miles. Holyhead to Dublin 63 ditto. Milford Haven to Waterford 85 ditto.

No part of Ireland is more than fifty miles from the sea.

ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.

_The Province of_ ARMAGH _contains Ten Dioceses*._

663 Parishes, 446 Churches.

†16 Abpk. of Armagh 11 Bpk. of Raphoe 23 Bpk. of Dromore 9 ---- of Clogher 7 ---- of Down } 12 ---- of Kilmor ---- of Connor} _united._ 22 ---- of Ardagh‡ 6 ---- of Derry 5 ---- of Meath

_The Province of_ DUBLIN _contains Five Dioceses._

658 Parishes, 217 Churches.

15 Abpk. of Dublin 3 Bpk. of Ferns } 21 Bpk. of Kildare ---- of Leighlin} _united._ 20 ---- of Ossory

_The Province of_ CASHEL _contains Eleven Dioceses._

839 Parishes, 254 Churches.

17 Abpk. of Cashel} 8 Bpk. of Cloyne Bpk. of Emly } _united._ 2 ---- of Limerick} 19 ---- of Waterford} ---- of Ardfert } _united._ ---- of Lismore } _united._ and Aghadoe } 14 ---- of Cork} 4 ---- of Killaloe } ---- of Ross} _united._ ---- of Kilfenora} _united._

_The Province of_ TUAM _contains Six Dioceses._

276 Parishes, 87 Churches.

1 Abpk. of Tuam 18 Bpk. of Elphin 21 Bpk. of Clonfert } 10 ---- of Killalla ---- of Killmacduagh} _united._ ---- of Achonry.

* The dioceses are placed with respect to contiguity, not according to rank; for the bishop of _Meath_ has precedence of all bishops, and next to him _Kildare_; the other bishops take place according to the date of their consecration.

† The figures indicate the order in comparative extent of each diocese.

‡ _Ardagh_, though in this province, is at present annexed to the archbishoprick of _Tuam_.

LEGAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.

CIRCUITS OF THE JUDGES.

_The Assize Towns are marked with an Asterisk, thus_, (*).

MUNSTER CIRCUIT.

CONNAUGHT CIRCUIT.

† At Ballinrobe generally in the Spring, and at Castlebar in the Summer.

LEINSTER CIRCUIT.

† At Nass generally in the Spring, and at Athy in the Summer.

ULSTER, _North East_.

ULSTER, _North West_.

HOME CIRCUIT.

TO CARLOW.

From Carlow, Grangemellon, Andrie, _Athy_.

From Athy, Stradbally, _Maryborough_.

From Maryborough, Portarlington, Clonegowan, Geshil, _Philipstown_.

From Philipstown, Terrilspass, Rochfort, _Mullingar_.

From Mullingar, Killucan, Raharney, _Trim_.

COMPARATIVE HEIGHT OF THE CHIEF MOUNTAINS IN IRELAND, _Above the Level of the Sea_.

_Eng. feet._

_M'Gillicuddy's Reeks_, Co. of Kerry, 3404

_Sleibh Dorm_, Co. of Londonderry, 3150

_Knockmeledown_[2], dividing Cork, Tipperary, and Waterford, 2700

_Croagh Patrick_, Co. of Mayo, 2666

_Nephin_, Ditto, 2640

_Mangerton_, above the Lake of Killarney, Co. Kerry, 2505

_Mourne Hills_, Co. of Down, 2500

_Commerach Ridge_, Co. Waterford, 2160

_Croaghan Kinshelly_, Bar. of Arklow, 1850

_Sawell_, Co. of Londonderry, 1600

_Slenish Mountain_, Co. of Antrim, 1390

_Alt-English-Hill_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300

_Benbradagh_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300

_Benyevenach_, Ditto, 1250

_Sleibh Gallan_, Ditto, 1250

_Donald's Hill_, Ditto, 1200

_Kedy_, Ditto, 1100

_Croneham_, Co. of Wicklow, 1000

_Croaghmore_, Co. of Antrim, 600

ISLE OF MAN.

_Inafel_, in centre of the Island, 1740

[2] On the top of this mountain Henry Eles by his own desire was buried; he was an ingenious man, and published several tracts on electricity.

[From Rees's _Cyclopedia_.]

LIST _of_ ROUND TOWERS; _principally extracted from_ Dr. Beaufort's Memoir, _with an indication of those he had seen marked with an Asterisk_.

Key: _Ht._ = Height in Feet. _Cf._ = Circumf. _Th._ = Thickness of Walls. _Dr._ = Door from ground.