Part 19

WEXFORD, 67 m. S. of Dublin, a very ancient town. Vestiges of walls. See elegant modern Ch.; Court-house; wooden Bridge 2100 feet long, where 97 protestants were butchered in the rebellion. Trade and manufacture considerable. Small obelisk, to the memory of Major Vallotton. See some ruins of the Ch. and Abbey of Selksar, or the Priory of St. Peter and St. Paul, supposed to have been founded by the Danes. The antiquary will not fail to visit the majestic ruins of the Ch. of St. Mary, of which Grose has given a good plate, representing it as small but of excellent workmanship; being remarkable for its elegant arches supported by round columns, the cases and capitals of which are of peculiar construction. The shafts of the pillars are of hewn stone; but the remainder of the ruin consists of plain walls and unornamented windows. Amongst the sepulchral monuments which remain, there is a tomb with some sculptures, and a female figure recumbent, but for whom it is unknown. The choir is entered by a circular arch, the others are Gothic. To enjoy a very fine prospect go to Ferry Carrick, where the stream becomes contracted between considerable rocks. Here the tourist ought to land, and ascend the rising ground on the west side of this narrow pass. An inland bay, which appears unexpectedly, and animates the scene in no common degree, then opens to the view. This noble expanse of water is bounded by steep banks, all cultivated, and in some places covered with timber. To the E. the distant mountains, which are softened into the purple of distance, add much to the effect of the surrounding scenery, which, indeed, abounds with uncommon beauties. Immediately beneath is seen a handsome wooden bridge, painted white, which makes a very pretty object in this natural picture, still further diversified by the ruins of an old Castle on an opposite rock; a situation that seems to bespeak a sense of taste, as well as a sense of danger in the steel-clad chieftain who once frowned within its sombre walls.

MINERALS.

Schistus and argillite in the western districts. Siliceous pudding-stone in several places. Granite and limestone.

BOTANY.

Yet uninvestigated.

WICKLOW

Is one of the best known in the island for its beauties, on account of its vicinity to the capital, combining within itself all the rudeness of uncultivated nature, the romantic effect of wood and glen, the sublimity of mountain outline, and the charms of extended ocean. It must be confessed that the interior offers little beyond the variations of mountain and bog; but the sea-coast is rich in the splendour of marine villas and the busy neatness of crowded watering-places, presenting a variety of the most beautiful scenery, which would afford delightful occupation to the painter, the poet, or the tourist, fond of delineating nature as it appears, unassisted by the artificial aid of man. It is true that there are no navigable rivers, but it possesses abundance of smaller streams, which running down from the mountains with great rapidity, discharge their waters into the Irish Channel. Noblemen's and gentlemen's seats are numerous; as those fond of rural retreats are attracted hither by the vicinity of the capital, and by the romantic beauties which abound almost every where, as well as by the uncommon mildness of the climate, which is peculiarly remarkable for the luxuriance of its foliage in evergreens, myrtles, laurels, arbutuses, &c. The larch is a favourite in all modern plantations; and the oak flourishes in the rocky glens. Bounded N. by Dublin; E. by Irish Channel; S. by Wexford; W. by Carlow and Kildare.

ARKLOW, 10 m. S. of Wicklow.--See Bridge of 19 arches over the Avoca; modern Ch.; Barracks in commanding situation; ruins of Castle, an old Tower forming part of the Barracks; and general appearance of town picturesque. See the mausoleum near to it, to the memory of the Howard family, conspicuous on a lofty hill. The picturesque and poetic tourist may amuse himself with tracing the romantic scenery of the Avoca and Avonmore. See Ballyarthur, the prospect from which, as described by Mr. Wakefield, must not be omitted by the tourist. This view is best seen from the terrace, which runs along the summit of the northern bank that forms one side of the vale of Arklow. The walk is 1 m. in length, with a summer house in one part where the view is very fine, below which a slope of great extent, clothed in wood, runs down to the united streams of the Avoca and Derry, proceeding in one channel into the ocean at Arklow. This hollow or valley is much wider than to admit of being called a glen, being about 1-1/2 m. in breadth; and from hence, looking directly inland, is a fine extent of mountain scenery, the most conspicuous feature of which is the Croan mountain fronting a woody bank which forms part of the vale and extends nearly 3 m. Following Mr. Wakefield's hints, the tourist will now direct his eye down the glen, where the river is seen pursuing its winding course until it is lost in cultivated fields, bounded by rocky heights of various forms and tint. On each side is a magnificent prospect of the ocean; and more immediately to the left lies a most delightful rising bank, covered with oaks, and forming the northern side of the river. Here, says Mr. W., the lively appearance of the woods, the tints of their waving foliage, the magnificence of the mountain scenery, and the wide expanse of the ocean displaying its surface, all combine to render this one of those extraordinary scenes of nature which rivet the attention with delight. The immediate foreground has a curious effect, being formed of the tops of trees; whilst the river lies below with slips of cultivated land scattered about its banks, and encompassed by the most beautiful woody scenery. Mr. W. then directs the tourist to follow the course of the river in an opposite direction towards Rathdrum, when the extent of the woods will almost induce him to imagine himself in the midst of one of those immense forests which extend over the wildest scenes of nature. Here too a rapid river, flowing from the mountains, rolls its shallow stream with wonderful rapidity along its rough and pebbly bed; whilst the opposite side of the glen is covered with wood to the very summit, behind which are lofty mountains that seem almost to touch the skies. Cross the river, pursue the road on the opposite side, and particularly notice a beautiful view of both sides of the glen in long perspective, with the river winding in the bottom of it, and the sea terminating the prospect. Visit Ballykin, seat of the Whaleys, erected on ancient Abbey. At Ballyrane, a Danish rath in high preservation. Carnew, 12 m. S.W., is a very strong situation, and was long the head-quarters of the sept of O'Toole, who preserved their independence for several centuries. It has a lofty square Castle with towers and battlements, still in tolerable preservation as far as regards the walls, which are of a blueish stone and of very good workmanship. The turrets are supported on consoles or brackets, and the whole has a commanding appearance, but is disfigured by the wretched cabins which crowd round the base of its venerable walls. Also ruins of old Ch. From hence the tourist may visit what remains of the ancient oak forest of Shillelagh. Cronebane, 7 m. W. from Arklow, possesses a mountain stream, a modern Pactolus, which separates the counties of Wicklow and Wexford. In the bed of this river large pieces of gold have several times been found; but when a regular search was instituted, the quantity taken did not pay the contingent expenses. Some lumps were also found in the Wicklow side of the mountain; and the tourist, if he picks up no specimens, may at least pick up health and amusement in his search. The waters of this place have been supposed to transmute iron into copper; but the fact is, that they precipitate the contained copper upon iron bars immersed therein; after which the precipitate is fluxed, and yields about one half pure copper. Examine the copper ore, which is found in one spot in a large vein at the depth of 390 feet; also the mode of procuring copper from the water, by its deposition on iron bars. Cronbane-house is a mansion highly deserving of notice, for its singular situation on a piece of land elevated, as Mr. Wakefield describes it, to nearly half the height of the mountain which forms the back-ground. The view from it is very fine; for two rivers, the Avon and the Avoca, wind round it in a semicircular form, exhibiting a broken outline, which gives them a romantic appearance, and shrouding the valley of Glendalough in their bosom. The home grounds and walks also possess many beauties. Kilcarra Castle, 3 m. from the sea, is the seat of the Earl of Carysfort, lately ornamented with towers and castellated front; in a retired spot on gentle declivity, with romantic glen. The new mail-coach road leading past this district affords many views of fine scenery. Shelton is the beautifully situated mansion of the Earl of Wicklow, at the base of a range of hills luxuriantly clothed in wood. Here are some of the finest beeches and chestnuts in Ireland. House ancient but modernized.

BALTINGLASS, 17 m. W. of Wicklow, is pleasantly seated on the Slaney, with a good trade and some manufactures. The Castle is in good repair, and now forms a comfortable mansion. Near it, on the banks of the Slaney, are the remains of the Abbey, consisting of a long Chapel totally in ruins, with a belfry tower, and a lofty plain E. window. Part of it is still roofed, and fitted up for divine service. Druidical remains in the vicinity; and the name is evidently derived from the worship of Baal, or Apollo; a circumstance that renders its antiquities highly interesting. Visit from hence a very curious Rath at Donard, on a hill called Slievh Guth or Church Mountain, about 6 m. distant. Here is a holy well to which numerous pilgrims repair. Stratford in the vicinity is a town of very recent erection, judiciously planned, but not successful as it ought to be. The cotton manufacture, however, flourishes.

BLESSINGTON, 18 m. N.W. of Wicklow, stands agreeably on the Liffey, on the verge of the county, with a handsome modern Ch.; and near it the ruins of the Marquis of Downshire's noble mansion destroyed in the rebellion. Ballymore Eustace has been already described in Kildare. Poll-a-phuca may be visited from this place, with a curious ruin of a Ch., and part of a Round Tower, and stone cross near it. The cascade at this place is considered by Miss Plumptre as much finer than the one at Powerscourt. It is formed by the Liffey amongst abrupt rocky scenery, well planted with shrubs, with shady walks, and prospect seats arranged by the taste and liberality of the late Earl of Milton, whose mansion at Russborough with a centre and wings extending 700 feet, of the Corinthian and Ionic orders, with a good collection of paintings, is worthy the tourist's notice.

BRAY, 13 m. N. of Wicklow and 11 S. of Dublin, is a place of considerable fashion in the summer as a bathing-place, independent of its enchanting scenery and vicinity to some of the sweetest charms of the county. See the Martello Towers; also Bray-head, with marble and other extensive quarries: old Castle; and river with good trout-fishing; Ch. in bold romantic situation. A pleasant jaunt is to go to Kilmacannoch Ch. in ruins, 3 m.; thence to the Glen of the Downs; ascend a hill on the right, catching a delightful view of Delganny Ch. on a rising hill above the village, with the sea in the distance; thence proceed to Newton Mount Kennedy, 8-1/2 m. from Bray, and to the vale of Dunran; then 4-1/2 m. to the Devil's Glen, with fine views of Glendaloch, Luggela, &c.; further on to Rosanna and Newry Bridge and Wicklow. The Dargle, a most romantic glen about 1 m. in length, and amidst the Powerscourt scenery, is one of the usual Irish wonders; but its description would far exceed all possible limits. Let the tourist attend to the fine ranges of wood; to the river in the bottom tumbling from rock to rock; to the immense height and grandeur of the precipices; and to the various breaks of extended prospect which present themselves in several directions. See Miss Plumptre's _Tour_, p. 83: also further under _Powerscourt_. At Delgany, a handsome modern Ch. with a superb monument to the memory of Mr. Latouche. Ennisherry is a pretty little place much frequented by invalids, standing near a river at the base of a lofty hill. Near it is the Glen of the Downs, through which runs the new mail-coach road to Wicklow. The best mode of visiting this romantic spot is to proceed to Bellevue, the seat of Mr. Latouche, which is about a mile from the sea coast and commands a very fine view of Bray-head, with an extent of marine scenery of considerable interest stretching towards Wicklow-head. According to Mr. Wakefield's description, the principal objects of attention, on first entrance, are the green-houses, connected with the mansion, and exhibiting to the delighted botanist a most interesting display of exotics and tender indigenous plants, some of them extremely rare. Behind the house, though not within immediate view, is the Glen of the Downs. Proceed to a banqueting-house in the pleasure-grounds, from whence is a sudden but most delightful view of this romantic scenery, lying directly below the observer, one side of the glen lined with oaks, and the opposite rising into a considerable hill clothed with rich foliage, and backed by the lofty mountain of Thomond. The tourist, if returning to Dublin, may proceed by Kilternan, 6-3/4 m. from the city, 1 m. beyond which is the Scalp, a remarkable chasm in a mountain which appears as if rent asunder by an earthquake. See the Sugar-Loaves in the distance. Near this are the lead mines of Shankhill amidst granite rocks, with abundance of galena, or sulphuret of lead, and mica. Collect specimens of crystallizations of carbonate of lead; also of sulphate of barytes, of phosphate of lead, and hæmatite or oxide of iron. Kilruddery near Bray, on the old coach-road, is a romantic mansion seated in a deep valley in the midst of most picturesque scenery. Luggela, which may be visited from Powerscourt Park, has in its vicinity a lake of the same name, seated amidst an ocean of mountainous scenery, surrounded by dark and naked rocks, and presenting a sombre picture of silence and desolation: the rugged barrenness of the scene which encircles this abyss is finely contrasted, in one point, by an expanse of verdant lawn, together with some plantations, belonging to a cottage erected there by Mr. Latouche, as a banqueting retirement. A ride of a few miles, either from Dublin or Bray, leads to Powerscourt, a noble seat, the road to which is a glen between two vast ridges of mountains covered with wood, which have a very noble effect. The vale is no wider than to admit the road, a small gurgling river close to its side, with some narrow slips of rocky ground and shrubbery. The whole scenery is of a most magnificent character, and much improved by an immense conical mountain rising out of the glen, and seeming to forbid all exit or entrance. An excursion to this favoured spot combines within its arrangements the several beauties of the Scalp, the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and the Dargle: the tourist may therefore bring them all within one day's visit, if time is short, or visit them in detail after a general view. The best method is to proceed from Dublin to Altadore, after which the road for a few miles leads over mountain scenery of a pleasing character until it approaches the head of a wide extended glen, with the ocean in front and the domain of Powerscourt covered with plantations and tillage; whilst the Scalp, a lofty mountain, shuts up the view in the north, and is finely contrasted on the opposite side of the compass by the Sugar-Loaf. Let the tourist now turn completely round, and he will discover a magnificent glen, richly covered with foliage, with an astonishing waterfall at its extremity, said to be 360 feet in height. Mr. Wakefield observes that these objects, however, form only a small part of the romantic scenery which fills this charming district; and he says that in the extent of about 6 m. from the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and from the waterfall to the ocean, a similar distance, nature has scattered her picturesque beauties with so liberal a hand, that the view altogether reminds the spectator of some of those landscapes on canvas, in which the painter, indulging his genius, has collected such an assemblage of interesting objects as are seldom found combined together in nature. The glen already described is the far famed _Dargle_, or the _Glen of the Oaks_, so that it must have been as well wooded in ancient times, as its sides are now clothed with verdant oaks, which add considerably to its native beauties. On a closer investigation the tourist observes a mountain stream tumbling over its rocky bed with great rapidity, after issuing from the foaming spray at the foot of the waterfall. Let him then proceed to the Lover's-Leap, where he will enjoy a most extensive prospect over the delightful scenery of the woods beneath him. Turning to the right he will notice the Powerscourt demesne, which includes a park that extends from the waterfall to the spot on which he stands, a distance of about 4 m., being an expanse of ground exhibiting the most uneven and varied outline, and richly planted with different trees and shrubs of the most luxuriant growth. On all sides are deep glens whose sides are covered with foliage, contrasted again by smiling lawns; whilst the mansion itself, a noble edifice built of the finest granite, is seen embosomed in trees, and overtopped by lofty mountains in almost endless succession and in all the variety of outline, blending their tints with the ethereal vapours, and forming a most striking contrast with the highly cultivated verdure of the foreground. Formerly there was a most excellent station for the accommodation of resident visitors, at an inn at Tinnehinch, but the building has been fitted up as a villa by Mr. Grattan: the tourist, however, will find other accommodation sufficiently comfortable.