Part 18

LISMORE, 30 m. from Waterford, and now a scene of desolation, formerly an university, bishop's see, and a city! Here is a handsome stone bridge of twelve arches, erected across the river by the munificence of the Devonshire family, to whom the castle and estate belong; the castle now undergoing a complete repair. On the approach towards the town of Lismore the road falls into a beautiful glen which proceeds in a winding direction; whilst the sides of the mountains by which it is formed, are clothed with a profusion of oak and ash. A stream of considerable size, which discharges itself into the Blackwater at the town, runs through the glen, and adds considerably to its beauties. This fine scenery lasts for about two miles. Near the town are the remains of the immense Castle once the residence of the brave but unfortunate Sir Walter Raleigh. It is an interesting object, and appears once to have been a place of some strength, boldly situated on the verge of a rocky hill, rising almost perpendicularly to a considerable height over the river Blackwater, upon which the principal window of the great room of the Castle looks down, and from whence, it is said, James II. started back with horror. This Castle is of very high antiquity, having been built by King John upon the ruins of the Abbey of St. Carthagh. Dr. Smith, speaking of the view from the great window of the Castle, observes, that "opposite to it there opens a wide glen wooded on both sides, and pleasantly watered by a small river which, at the distance of a mile, winds off to the west side of the great mountain of Knock-mill-down, 4 m. N. from it, and which exactly facing this window appears like a vast cone or sugar-loaf. To the west is a full prospect of the salmon-fishery, where the weirs are of a considerable length, traversing the river,--the working and the noise of the water through them (that here runs pretty rapid) forms a kind of artificial cataract, and resembles the sound of such, which, though not high, is of a considerable extent, and adds a lulling softness to the beauty of the scene. Above the weirs, the sides of the river are beautifully variegated with woods, lawns, and cornfields." See the old Cathedral fitted up as a modern Ch. See view from the noble bridge, particularly pointed out by Mr. Curwen, exhibiting the majestic rock on which the Castle stands, the valley on the S. side of the river, which, though confined, is extremely luxuriant, and the hills rising boldly on the northern bank towards Cappoquin. Sir R. C. Hoare observes, that though the scenery on the Blackwater cannot be compared with that on the Wye, the Dart, or the Tamar, in England, yet he is inclined to think it cannot, for the long continuance of 20 m., be surpassed or even rivalled by any other stream in Ireland. It affords some good subjects, he adds, for the portfolio; of which the most striking and best adapted to the pencil are those at Balinatry, Strancally, and Dromana; but all must yield to Lismore. The tourist will find a good inn and a good salmon fishery. Aglish, 4 m. S.E., is near Dromana, already noticed under Dungarvon. See ruins of ancient Castle; also ruins of venerable Abbey, 1 m. Cappoquin, 2 m. across the Blackwater, has a wooden bridge and ruins of ancient Castle, with a most enchanting and extensive prospect. Curwen describes it as a small neat town, with several handsome seats ornamented with timber and very picturesque scenery in its vicinity. Sir R. C. Hoare recommends to notice Dromana House, rising perpendicularly from a rock completely covered with trees; the character of that bend of the river being richness, with cultivated lands decked with trees, and distant mountains: also Turin, a modern house on an old Castle, seat of Mr. Kane, a finely wooded dingle in front backed with lofty mountains; ruined Ch. on the left; flat islands planted with willows; quarries of limestone, one fine mass of which bounds the river on the left. Modeligo, 7 m. E., has ancient Castles of the Magraths. Oon a mort is a small cave, similar to that of Con-a-glour. Strancally is 6 m. S. towards the mouth of the river, with ancient Castle and curious cave, respecting which there are some horrid legends: and near it the handsome seat of Headborough, with venerable ruins of Molana Abbey. Tallagh, 6 m. S.W., is a poor decayed village, with Lessfinny Castle near to it.

WATERFORD, 75 m. S. of Dublin, is episcopal and collegiate.--From Carrick-on-Suir to this place the road passes through a district which exhibits a great variety of picturesque views along the banks of that river. From the nature of the situation, the city itself is not seen until the traveller is within a short distance of it, standing apparently in the bottom of a basin, with the Suir, about a mile broad and crowded with shipping, flowing close to its side. See the noble quay, about 1 m. in length, with a wooden bridge which has a drawbridge in the centre, adding much to the beauty and convenience of the city. Elegant modern Cathedral. Handsome episcopal Palace. 3 Parish Ch. 4 Catholic Chapels. Court-House, erected on Black-friars Monastery. Tholsel. Gaol. Custom-House. Exchange. Coffee-Rooms. Assembly Rooms, and Theatre. Remains of Franciscan Friary. The earliest remnant of antiquity to be seen here, is a circular tower situated in the eastern angle of the city walls, said to be the work of a Danish chieftain in 1003, and (after him) called Reginald's Tower. The bridge is constructed of American oak. It is 832 feet long, 42 broad, has two sets of piers, each of seven pieces, besides cut-waters. The longest pile driven was 70 feet; the depth at low water is 37 feet, and the rise of the highest tides is 17 feet. Here is an existing Catholic Monastery. See the Woollen and Glass Manufactories; also Clonegan Tower, 72 feet high, erected by the late Marquis of Waterford to the memory of his son. Carrickbeg, 12 m. W., opposite to Carrick-on-Suir, has ruins of Franciscan Friary, with a leaning steeple. Whilst in this vicinity the tourist will be gratified by a ride over the large demesne of Curraghmore, which in many parts commands the most extensive prospects of the surrounding country. Mr. Wakefield notices that from the tower the eye can trace the Suir the whole way to Waterford, while the ocean, stretched out along the coast on the S., forms in the remote part of the picture a very fine object. The house is seen to most advantage in front, as it is backed by wood which exhibits very grand scenery. There are some good paintings. The demesne is stated by Mr. W. to contain 2800 acres, of which nearly one half is covered with wood. The whole of this extended property is surrounded by walls; and it excels in mountain scenery and woody wildness. Kilmanahan Castle, a mansion recently erected on the site of an ancient Castle, and preserving the old style of architecture, which gives it a very venerable appearance, rising from the summit of a rock at a bending of the Suir, which here divides the two counties. This position gives it the advantage of a very extensive prospect; and Mr. Wakefield declares that grandeur, united with elegance, renders this one of the completest residences that he had ever seen. Here too the Suir runs with great rapidity, and is seen rolling his waters beneath well wooded banks, with the Galtees mountains in the distance. Visit Kilmeaden Castle, Ch. and Spa. Passage is the place of embarkation for the Milford Haven packets, with ruins of Ch. and most extensive prospect from Faithleag-hill. Good inns. Tramore, 6 m. S., is an excellent bathing-place; delightful village, with neat Assembly Room and all the usual accommodations.

MINERALS.

Granite is the basis; and here has been found a stratum of clay equal to that of Stourbridge for glass-house pots.

BOTANY.

_Allium carinatum_, Purple-flowered Mountain Garlic:--on pasture lands.

_Althæa officinalis_, Marsh Mallow:--in the isles of Icane.

_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden Hair:--on mountains.

_Carex dioica_, Small Carex:--in bogs.

_Carum Carui_, Caraway:--in meadows and pastures:--near Woodhouse in the parish of Stradbally.

_Canvallaria majalis_, Lily Convally or May Lily:--in a wood near the river Collygan.

_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.

_Cucubalus otites_, Spanish Catchfly:--in a grove near Lismore, near the Blackwater river.

_Daphne Laureola_, Spurge Laurel:--in a wood near Mogehy in the parish of Whitchurch.

_Drosera longifolia_, Long-leaved Sundew:--on a bog near Ballycaroge.

_Eryngium campestre_, Common Eryngo:--in the sand near Youghal harbour.

_Gladiolus communis_, (Linn.) Sword Grass or Corn Flag:--at the upper end of the Conegary, at Dungarvon.

_Imperatoria Ostruthium_, Masterwort:--on Slatwood Hill near Lismore, and Tallow.

_Menyanthes trifoliata_, Buckbean:--on bogs.

_Osmunda regalis_, Osmund Royal, or Flowering Fern:--near Ballycaroge.

_Peucedanum officinale_, Hog's Fennel, or Sea Sulphurwort:--in the barony of Gualtier.

_Polemonium cæruleum_, Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder:--on a bank of the Blackwater between Cappoquin and Lismore.

_Polygonum Bistorta_, Greater Bistort or Snakeweed:--on Slatwood-hill near Lismore, and Tallow.

_Solidago Virga aurea_, A variety of common Golden Rod:--on Cushean-hill near Dungarvon.

_Spiræa filipendula_, Dropwort:--on Cumeragh mountains.

WESTMEATH

Is an inland county, not very large, but extremely rich in verdure, mostly flat, though in some places pleasingly intersected with hills, many of which are finely wooded. In short, if not so picturesque as many other districts, yet the tourist will not be in want of subjects for his portfolio, as it contains many lakes pleasingly fringed with rich plains and wooded scenery. Bounded N. by Cavan; E. by Eastmeath; S. by King's County; W. by Roscommon and the Shannon; and N.W. by Longford.

ATHLONE, 20 m. S.W. of Mullingar, stands pleasantly on the Shannon, with fine scenery, particularly in Lough Ree. Formerly rich in antiquities; but almost all destroyed by fire in the civil wars, though now a town of considerable extent, and nearly in the centre of Ireland. In the town there is a strong Castle defended by numerous guns. See the pontoon or floating bridge, consisting of between 30 and 40 boats. Examine chalybeate spa. Many beautiful prospects between this and Ballymenach. Inquire for ruins of Monastery at Drumrany, or Drumrath; also at Kilkenny West, a small village. At Maghretibot, or the Field of Theobald, see the field of battle where Sir Theobald de Verdon fell in a contest with the Irish clans. Moatagrenoge, 8 m. S.E., has an excellent inn as a station for those who wish to explore this district, where there are the ruins of numerous old Castles, a good modern Ch., a seat of Lord Sunderlin at Ballinabon, and the venerable remains of Garey Castle.

BALLYMORE, midway between Athlone and Mullingar, has several objects worth seeing. Village small. Ch. neat: ruins of Castle; also of Killinney Castle near it. Lough Scudy has on its banks the ancient Monastery of Plassey.

CASTLETOWN DELVIN, 12 m. N.E. of Mullingar, is a small village, but a good station for several objects in its district. Near it is the ancient baronial seat of the Earls of Westmeath; of which a part is standing, consisting of an oblong square, with a lofty circular tower at each corner. Near it is a large Danish rath. See, in its vicinity, Baronston, the seat of Lord Sunderlin, a magnificent mansion, including the wings, 300 feet in front, seated in the midst of a considerable park, embosomed in excellent plantations, and surrounded by a charming country, richly diversified with lakes, hills, and mountain scenery. Clonmellon has an elegant Ch., with a steeple and spire, of modern erection, but in imitation of the Gothic. See small lakes to the N.W.

FORE, 9 m. N. of Mullingar, deserves a visit on account of Lough Lane in its immediate vicinity. See the ruined Ch. of Clonarney, and that of Archerstown, near a new-built seat of Mr. Battersby; also a seat of Mr. Smith. Between Archerstown and Fore, Sir R. C. Hoare notices a tumulus which appears to be sepulchral, surrounded by a fosse, but not so exactly executed as those on Salisbury Plain. But Fore also interests by its own ruins of parish churches, walls, and gateways, with the shell of a spacious Monastery seated in the vale below, dedicated to St. Fechin, first built in 630, and re-founded in 1209. Sir R. G. Hoare states that this Monastery presents a large pile of simple and unornamented masonry; the Chapel is still in a tolerable state of preservation, and has three narrow pointed windows. Lough Lane (already mentioned) a large piece of water with three wooded islands upon it: it produces good trout and pike. The scenery is not very romantic, for the banks are flat, but well cultivated. On its N. side the waters penetrate under the rock, and reappear on the opposite side of a hill near Fore, where they turn a mill. To the S. of the lake, at a short distance, is a raised earthen work, commonly called the "Fort of Turgesius," a chieftain of great military renown with the old historians. He lived in the ninth century. If any reliance can be placed upon topographical derivations, this vicinity must once have had a very literary character; for _Foure_ signifies the _town of books_, and _Lough Lane_, the _lake of learning_! This lake gives birth to two rivulets, which discharge themselves into the sea on opposite sides of the island. There are fine rides through the well cultivated country in its vicinity, especially in the road to Rochford, commanding in succession a view of a pleasing lake, Lough Derrin; the "Crooked Wood," a hill so distinguished for its foliage, though now denuded; and the beautiful wooded hill of Knockdrin. See Castle Pollard, and Pakenham Hall; also Loughs Armagh and Drin.

KILBEGGAN, 10 m. S. of Mullingar, is a pleasant village, with good river scenery in the Brosne. Some remains of Monastery. The artist may here find amusement.

KINNEGAD, 10 m. E. of Mullingar, is a mere village, but has excellent accommodations for the wanderer. On a hill near to it see ruins of Ardmullan Castle; also Kilbride Pass, where are ruins of ancient Ch. and two Castles.

MULLINGAR, 34 m. W. of Dublin, is the shire-town, with good accommodations. Some ruins of a Dominican friary; also Baronston, the seat of Lord Sunderlin, may be visited from this place. See beautiful Ch. recently erected. The statistical tourist will do well to consult _Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 249. Inquire for Horse-leap, 6 or 8 m. S., where are some remains of a very stately Castle built by Sir Hugh de Lacy, one of the earliest English adventurers; and another 2 m. distant. To the N. inquire for the beautiful demesne and elegant mansion of the Nugents, with remains of a venerable Castle in vicinity. To see Lough Derryveragh in perfection, go to Wilson's Hospital, delightfully situated between that and Lough O'Whel, or Hoyle. From the Hospital notice charming view of Lord De Blaquiere's residence and the romantic lake scenery, with a prospect over five counties. The Hospital is supposed to be in the centre of Ireland; its revenues are large. About 2 m. from Mullingar, from an eminence, there is a most extensive prospect of Lough O'Whel and Lough Ennel, looking towards Belvidere, which has the celebrity of being one of the most enchanting spots in the island. Lough Ennel lies between Mullingar and Kilbeggan, and is pretty extensive, its eastern banks decorated by many gentlemen's seats. Near this is the late Lord Belvidere's seat, at Belvidere, perched on the crown of a beautiful little hill, half surrounded with others, variegated, and melting into one another. Lough Ennel, many miles in length and two or three broad, flows beneath the windows, spotted with islets, whilst a promontory of rock fringed with trees starts into it; the whole bounded by distant hills. "Greater and more magnificent scenes are often met with, but no where a more beautiful or a more singular one." Multifarnam possesses the magnificent ruins of an Abbey of Franciscans, highly interesting for its connection with a most important period of Irish history. When the monasteries were dissolved, this abbey was given to an alderman of Dublin, one of whose successors permitted the friars to assemble here again, with a splendour nearly equal to their former state, having their organ and choristers in the Ch., with fine apartments for themselves, barracks for soldiers, and a large establishment for the reception of those who chose here to seek for shelter; and it is asserted that within the walls of Multifarnam was first concerted that rebellion which broke out in massacre in 1641. Enough remains to gratify the lover of ancient architecture, in its pointed gables, Gothic windows, and lofty tower 60 feet in height, and in its solemn cloisters which may still be traced. New-Pass, not far distant, is a pleasant mansion with good lake scenery. See Tyril's-Pass, a neat village with ancient Castle ruins.

MINERALS.

Nothing remarkable.

BOTANY.

A virgin field; but promising great variety of aquatics.

WEXFORD

Presents many interesting considerations to the English tourist, arising from its being the first active scene of invasion by the Anglo-Norman adventurers in the reign of Henry the Second. It is, however, a district very little noticed by casual travellers, who, perhaps from its apparent deficiency in mountain scenery, rashly pass it over _en route_, reserving all their admiration and praise for the more classical beauties of Killarney. Yet Wexford well merits investigation, not only for the magnificent and romantic views at every turn of the Slaney, one of the most beautiful rivers of the island, which divides it nearly in equal parts, but also for the immense number of Gothic castellated ruins which yet adorn its green eminences, the relics of feudal barbarism and of intestine hostility. Add to this, much of it is in a high state of cultivation; especially the baronies of Bargie and Forth, which yet are completely denuded of all kinds of timber. Bounded N. by Wicklow; E. by Irish Channel; S. by Atlantic Ocean; W. by Waterford, Kilkenny, and Carlow.

BANNOW, 11 m. S.W. of Wexford, may be visited along with Feathard and Clonmines. Here Strongbow landed, temp. Hen. II. Those fond of aquatic sports may visit the Saltees.

CLONMINES, 10 m. S.W. of Wexford.--In his excursions on the banks of the romantic Barrow, the tourist will not omit to visit the ruins of the once very extensive Abbey, with its light, lofty pinnacled tower, ivied walls, and elegantly ramified western window, formed of red grit, but completely whitened by the moss which enwraps it. Some fine specimens of ornamental sculpture are to be found in the architecture of the western door and in the arches of the cloisters, also on a monument within the Ch.

CLONEGALL, 21 m. N. of Wexford, is a small village: but here the tourist may commence his examination of the river Slaney. Visit Newtonbarry, the seat of Col. Barry, deriving great animation from the picturesque effect of river scenery combined with modern improvement, and the majestic range of Mount Leinster.

ENNISCORTHY, 8 m. N.W. of Wexford, stands agreeably on the Slaney. Ancient Castle fitted up as military depôt. Handsome bridge, six arches. Close to it is Vinegar Hill! A few miles to the E. is Courtown, remarkable for its evergreens, which grow to an immense size with a marine aspect. Near this also are the pleasing seats of Kyle and Bellevue, places of extraordinary beauty, and affirmed by Mr. Wakefield to be inferior to none in the British empire, abounding in magnificent scenery, richly planted, undulating and varied in their surfaces, and animated by the Slaney flowing between them, which often assumes all the grandeur of an expansive lake.

FETHARD, 15 m. S.W. of Wexford.--Ancient Castle, once in ruins, lately altered and modernized. Principal tower is an elegant specimen of the ancient military architecture, with its crown and battlements supported by brackets or consoles, and fantastic embrasures from whence the enemy could be annoyed in the old system of defence. Visit Dunbrody Abbey, on the Barrow; ruins magnificent; fine sculpture in W. window. Several ruins of Castles and Danish raths. Duncannon Fort is a good specimen of modern fortification, though of early foundation, having been erected for the defence of the river against the threatened attacks of the Spanish Armada, in the reign of Elizabeth. It stands on the flat surface of a lofty rock which overlooks the bay forming the entrance of the river. See the Hook Tower. At a distance of about 3 m. from the fort stands one of the most noble religious ruins in the island, Tintern Abbey, in consequence of its first monks being brought from that abbey in Monmouthshire by the founder, William earl of Pembroke, whose piety was prompted to a vow during a threatened shipwreck.

FERNS, 13 m. N. of Wexford.--On an eminence in the town see the ruins of the ancient Castle, one of whose fine circular towers is almost entire, containing amongst other apartments a beautiful chapel, the groining of which springs from consoles in the wall, but the flooring is gone. Over it is an arched room with embrasures or loop-holes. See ruins of Abbey; elegant Episcopal Palace; modernized Cathedral, with ancient tomb of St. Meoloch. Camolin is the seat of Earl Mountnorris.

GOREY, 21 m. N.E. of Wexford, exhibits the effects of rebellion in the destruction of several elegant seats in its vicinity. Here were horrible scenes of massacre.

ROSS, or NEW ROSS, 15 m. W. of Wexford, stands amidst fine scenery on the Barrow, opposite to the junction of the Nore. Several ruins of religious houses, and an existing monastery. Elegant wooden bridge. Fine view from the hill. In the Ch. of St. Saviour, see a curious monument, of as early a date as the commencement of the 14th century, but falsely attributed by tradition to a lady of the name of Rose Macrae, who is called sister to Strongbow, an anachronism which confutes itself. The female figure lies on the monument, with the hair reticulated round the forehead; and on the breast is a solitaire, from which a curious ornament hangs pendant. Here was fought one of the bloodiest battles in the late rebellion. (See _Hall's Tour_, vol. i. 98, for many curious particulars.) Near it is Scullabogue, where near 200 protestants were burnt to ashes in a barn.