Part 16

BURROS, 12 m. S.W. of Maryboro; a neat village, forming a good station for the western district, having an excellent inn. Ruins of Ballaghmore Castle, 3 m. W.; from whence may be visited Monaincha Abbey in Tipperary. Grantstown Castle near Rathdowny. On the hill of Kyle, a curious remnant of ancient judicature, the Brehon's Chair, or Fairy Chair, as called in the vicinity. It is very near the top of the hill, on its eastern side, and formed from the solid rock; was the judgement-seat and public court of the Brehon, or chief of the Fitzpatricks. See at Skirk, a very curious Pagan fane, situated on a lofty hill, from whence the eye has a most extensive range. It consists of an immense large earthen mound, the area surrounded by a deep entrenchment, and in the centre, a pyramidal stone 6 feet high, with the stumps of others which formed a temple. Towards the E. see a cromlech; and on the north side, contiguous to the Parish Ch., a high keep, or exploratory fort.

MARYBOROUGH, 40 m. S.W. of Dublin; the assize town. See ancient Castle, demolished by Cromwell. 9 m. S.W. is Abbey Leix, the seat of Lord de Vesci, a considerable domain covered with old timber, and intersected by the river Nore, which, with the woods, forms its principal charm, as the grounds are flat and unvaried. The statist will contemplate with pleasure several neat villages in its immediate vicinity, erected by the patronizing exertions of the noble landlord. Aghaboe, near Abbey Leix, has remains of ancient Abbey and Cathedral, of which little more than the chancel now exists; remnants of Gothic architecture, in the windows and various niches, canopies and concentric mouldings which yet adorn its mouldering walls; but much injured by a late rector. The Abbey of Aghamacart lies to the S. about 6 m. from Aghaboe, once very extensive, and now in ruins. At a distance nothing appears but the gloomy belfry; but the visitor soon arrives at an arch of good workmanship which opens into the body of the ruins, or rather into the remains of the chapel. There is, indeed, little to attract attention, were it not for a legendary tale, of a monk whose affection for a lovely nun was met with such reciprocity on the part of the lady, that gossip scandal would soon have spread her thousand wings. To expiate his crime and escape reproach, the monk flung himself from the battlements of a tower and perished; but the fate of the unhappy fair is wrapped up in oblivion. Aghamacart Castle, now forming a total yet picturesque ruin, is not of earlier date than the reign of Elizabeth. Ballinakill, 9 m. S., ruins of Castle, demolished by Cromwell. About 15 m. S.E., on a small point of land watered by the Barrow, stand the very picturesque ruins of Cloghgrennan Castle, deeply embosomed in foliage and entwined with ivy. About 4 m. E. is Dunamase, a hill fort, which, though almost in total ruins, affords to the antiquary and to the man of taste a very good specimen of the military manners of earlier times. Though standing on an insulated rock, its name signifies the "Fort of the Plain." This rock is inaccessible on all sides except the east, which, in its perfect state, was defended by the Barbican, of which a considerable part remains. Here began the principal defences, with ditches on each side, until stopped by rocks, where walls seem to have been erected, with two towers for the protection of the Barbican, from whence the visitor enters the Ballium or Bailey, the gate of which is 7 feet wide, with walls six feet in thickness, and the remains of a parapet crenelled and embattled. This leads to the upper Ballium, the gate of which is in a tower, from whence fragments of walls extend on both sides; here too was the keep, with a sally-port and prison. This fortress belonged to Dermod McMurrough, King of Leinster; but the present remains are rather of later date; perhaps the work of the Pembroke family in the 13th century. It is now repairing by Sir H. Parnell, with judicious attention to its gothic grandeur. Doonaun, a village about 16 m. S.E., has extensive coalpits, which claim the notice of the mineralogist by rocks of whinstone resting on a stratum or column of basaltes, 40 feet below the surface; below which are strata of slate and iron ore. Great Heath, or Rathean Common, 2 m. N. of Maryborough, is memorable for a battle in the 3d century between the people of Munster and Leinster; and the bones of the slain are often dug up at the present day. Killone Hill is conical, with curious cavern and subterranean lake, highly worth the tourist's notice. Near it a fine quarry of calcareous stone equal to Portland. The Maragah, or Margy Mountains in the S.E. present a fine field for the geologist. About 1-1/2 m. N. of Dunamase, the tourist will descry a small fortress, called Shean Castle, standing on the summit of one of the high, steep, conical hills, so frequent in this part of the county. It is still habitable, though its surrounding defences have been long in ruins, demolished in the Civil wars. Stradbally, 6 m. S.E., neat village, handsome Ch., good Market-house, and Charter School. See Brockly Park, the magnificent seat of Earl Roden; and Stradbally Hall, that of Mr. Crosbie: about 4 m. S. is Dun-cliun-poic, or Dun of Clipoke, an insulated rock with curious caves; near it is a tombstone with Druidic inscription. About 6 m. S. from Stradbally, stands the Castle of Timahoe, an edifice not older than the reign of Elizabeth, but now completely in ruins, having stood a siege in the civil wars, at which time it was dilapidated. Its area is now filled with cabins of the peasantry: there is nothing very interesting to the tourist; but close to it there is one of the ancient round towers, now fast mouldering away. The entrance is at a height of fourteen feet from the ground, and is ornamented with a chevron or zigzag moulding, a circumstance which opens a wide field of conjecture as to date and origin.

MOUNTMELLICK, 6 m. N.E. of Maryborough, is a pretty little village, perfectly in unison with its inhabitants who are Quakers. Near it see Ballyfinn, a modern house of the Rt. Hon. W. W. Pole: fine lake; noble lawns; elegant apartments; well wooded demesne; and most extensive prospects. See ruins of Cloneslee and Cuffe Castles; also freestone quarry at Rosenallis.

MOUNTRATH, 7 m. W. of Maryborough; pleasant little village on the Nore, with good river scenery. From hence the picturesque or geological tourist may visit the mountains of Slieve Boomy, or Bloom, in the N.W.

PORTARLINGTON, 9 m. N.E., stands partly in King's County, (where it has been noticed,) large, populous, and genteel. At Ballybrittas, ruins of Castle, demolished by Cromwell; with numerous country seats in vicinity; particularly Dawson's Grove, residence of Lord Portarlington. Near this town, see Lea Castle, famous in the wars of the 13th century, and standing on a rising ground. This edifice manifests the strength that was given to these dens; for its walls are 8 feet thick in some places, in others 10. It was 60 feet long, 46 feet broad; its arches all circular except one pointed one. The river Barrow secured one side, and filled the ditches of the other; so that it was only approachable by a narrow causeway 100 feet in length, a good defence before the introduction of artillery. See ruins of Morit Castle near Emo, in a wild valley, intersected by a rivulet.

MINERALS.

Coal and iron ore in Slewmargy; Chalybeate Spa, near Portarlington.

BOTANY.

Yet unexplored.

ROSCOMMON.

A small inland county, not remarkable for grandeur of scenery, consisting principally of rich, extensive pasturage, intermixed with considerable masses of bog. There are some pretty views on the banks of the Shannon, which forms its eastern boundary. For the mineralogist there is little to interest, as its basis throughout is almost one continued sheet of limestone. Bounded E. by the Shannon; S. by Galway; W. by Mayo; N. by Sligo; N.E. by Leitrim.

ABBEY BOYLE, or BOYLE, 20 m. N. of Roscommon, pleasantly seated on the river Boyle. See two stone Bridges, on one of which is a pedestrian statue of William III.; fine Ch. and barrack. In Lord Kingston's demesne the attention of the antiquary will be turned to the ruins of the ancient Abbey, which stand within it at the back of the town, presenting a most elegant specimen of the architecture of the 13th century, when it was founded for Cistertian monks in honour of the Virgin. It is now a mere picturesque mass of ruin, filled with lofty trees and much thorny underwood. The approach from the bridge is very grand; especially the effect of the tower, covered with thick foliage, and springing from great arches which were 45 feet in height before the ravages of time had spread the floor with the relics of the mouldering walls. The interior has once been very fine; solid walls fill up the spaces between the pillars, supposed to have been erected in the reign of Elizabeth, when this dissolved monastery was turned into a fortified post, for which it was certainly well fitted, and actually stood a siege from the Earl of Tyrone in 1595. The east window, when in its glory, must have been extremely beautiful. Near to the Abbey are some vestiges of one of the round towers; and every thing around it would tend to produce a most impressive scene, were it not that the cloisters have been long occupied as a barrack: yet the silence and gloom of the interior, with the solemn arcades, and the emblems of mortality that lay scattered over its surface, will not fail to gratify the contemplative visitor. Cambo Castle is about 2 m. distant. About 7 m. from Boyle, and upon the edge of a very extensive bog, are the ruins of the Abbey of Clonshanville, now almost a total ruin. Of the cloisters no remnant exists; but the tower, 60 feet high, forms a pleasing object, with the few Gothic fragments at its base. Croghan is immortalized as the residence of Cathmor, the friend of strangers: here is an ancient Rath, also a sacred Cave of the Druids, and near to it Relig-na-Riagh, or the resting-place of the Kings of Connaught, an immense cemetery in a circle 200 feet diameter. Visit French Park. See Kingston Hall, an elegant mansion of Lord Lorton. Lough Arrow, 3 m. N. of Boyle, is beautifully studded with wooded islands: also Lough Gara to the W. Lough Glinn is also in this vicinity; on its banks stands a noble mansion of Viscount Dillon, with some extensive grounds, of modern erection and improvement; and on the opposite shore the tourist may visit two ruinous towers, which are all that remain of a once very extensive antique fortress, a feudal residence of the old barons of Ophaley. One of these towers has long been used as a temporary prison.

ATHLONE, 12 m. S.E. of Roscommon, is principally in Westmeath, where it will be described.

ELPHIN, 13 m. N. of Roscommon, though an episcopal see, is only a small neat village, celebrated as the birth-place of Oliver Goldsmith. See the magnificent palace; also the Diocesan school-house. Ballintobber was the residence of O'Connor, king of Connaught, but now a dilapidated village. Here are some very extensive ruins of the ancient Castle, built round a square, flanked by four towers of different forms. The vestiges are in a most dilapidated state, but possess some further interest from an anecdote recorded by Grose of a young Irish _Gentleman_, during the civil wars, who behaved with the most devoted bravery in an action fought close to the walls. When victory declared for the Parliamentary forces, this youth, disdaining to fly with his party, placed himself at the corner of a ditch, where he defended himself with his pike against five horsemen who fired on him, when a gigantic English soldier, getting behind him, slew him. Being stripped and his cap taken off, long tresses of flaxen hair fell down, which exciting further curiosity, it was at length discovered that this unhappy youth was a female. See Lough Kee, a romantic lake, adorned with finely wooded rising grounds; on a peninsula are the very picturesque ruins of St. John's Castle. In the Lough is an island called _MacDermot's_, after a chieftain of that name, stated by tradition to have been of a very jealous disposition, and to have confined his wife in it, whenever he was engaged in any of the warlike contests of those turbulent times. If the legends, however, are to be credited, the lady certainly gave him sufficient cause for his jealousy; and all his precautions were unavailing: for it is said that her lover used to swim to his nocturnal visits as Leander did to Hero. The obstacles he had to surmount were indeed numerous; for the island is surrounded by a wall close to the water's edge, encircling a gloomy tower now overgrown with ivy. At present the interior is filled with trees, and the island presents a picturesque and singular appearance. On another island are the ruins of a religious edifice, supposed to be founded by the Culdees, and now called Ennismacreeny Abbey. The walls of the Ch. are yet standing, solemn and sombre, the windows being only long loop-holes; at some distance is a little dark Chapel, which sufficiently marks the gloomy seclusion of those superstitious times. Round Tower at Oran. Strokestown is a neat village; near it the magnificent mansion of Ross Mahon, Esq. Visit Tulsk, a mere hamlet, but worth notice for its antiquities. Here are some remains of an ancient Abbey, little known, and supposed to have belonged to the Dominican order. Nothing exists now but some bare walls, marking the site of the Ch., and part of a square tower; but it seems never to have been very lofty nor very extensive. Near it is Tormonia, the ancient residence of O'Connor, of whose Castle there are some remains.

ROSCOMMON, 70 m. W. of Dublin, is the assize town.--Ancient Castle stood several sieges in Elizabeth's reign and in the Civil wars; now an extensive mass of ruins. See the once august ruins of the ancient Abbey, founded by Cathal Crowdeargh O'Connor, king of Connaught, in the 13th century, whose tomb may be traced in its solemn aisle. Little remains except some shattered windows and ruined arcades. Near to the modern mansion of Castle Coote are some remains of the old Castle, erected by Sir Charles Coote in the reign of James the First. It stood two sieges during the Civil wars, but is at present a mere mass of ruins; forming, however, a picturesque object in the demesne. See elegant mansion at Castlereagh; and a curious battlemented house, called Donamon Castle, may be visited from Roscommon. Its appearance is extremely whimsical, being square with projecting turrets at the angles. A lofty range of stone steps leads up to a circular doorway, nearly as high as the roof; and within is a similar range leading to the upper apartments. It is in good repair and habitable. In front is the river Suck. About 7 m. N.E. of Roscommon, the tourist may visit the picturesque but not very lofty or extensive ruins of the Abbey of Clonthuskart, in such a state of dilapidation that little more can be accurately traced than the principal chapel, the eastern window of which must once have been extremely grand. Kilmaine is the demesne of the Crofton family, within whose bounds is the hill of Kilmaine, on the summit of which is a small ancient Ch., partly in ruins. The place is solemn and fitted for meditation, were not the visitor's attention completely engaged by the very extensive prospect which bursts upon him over no less than sixteen counties.

MINERALS.

Nothing remarkable yet discovered.

BOTANY.

_Aristolochia Clematitis_, Climbing Birthwort:--in the woods of Briole near Athlone.

_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--near Mount Talbot.

SLIGO.

Nearly half the outline of this county is maritime. Very mountainous, especially in the Coolavin district, where the Curlew Hills offer their virgin bosoms to the mineralogist. The ox mountain (Sliebh Dham) with a long train of desolate hills extends from the boggy maritime plains of Tyreragh; whilst the rough mountain land, from Lough Gilly, stretching eastward, is marked by the lofty eminences of Samore and Benbulb. Much lake and river scenery. Bounded S. by Mayo; W. by Atlantic Ocean; N. by Leitrim; and E. by Roscommon.

ACHONRY, 14 m. S.W. of Sligo, may be made head-quarters for the examination of the S.W. district; or the tourist may apply at Tobercorry, a few miles distant. 5 m. W. of it, on the river Moy, are the very picturesque and ivied ruins of Bennada Friary, whose lofty square tower, 70 feet high, forms a very striking object, starting from the thick foliage with which it is surrounded, on a rising bank amidst a range of meadows. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will be gratified by a ramble to the ruins of Court Abbey close to a small village of that name, and about 3 m. W. from Achonry. The way to it is not very agreeable, being mostly through bogs: it is, however, an object not easily missed, as it stands conspicuously in a small field, where its lofty tower, fifty-three feet high, frowns over the ruins below. The interior sombre and solemn; used as an open cemetery. Proceeding a little further, the visitor arrives, through a lofty Gothic arch, at a Chapel the windows of which were once ornamented with paintings, now obliterated. Here are also several pedestals for the statues of saints, but now untenanted; in the south wall are some slight remains of a window once rich in tracery. Passing into the western Chapel, observe a curious octagonal inverted cone, supposed to have been the receptacle for the holy water; and on the northern side of the chancel are melancholy memorials of mortality, the recesses in the walls being entirely filled with human skulls: the whole presenting a scene of desolation perfectly in unison with the wildness of the surrounding country. Not far from the village of Tubbercorry are some remains of an old Castle of the O'Hara. The country around is flat and boggy, and there is nothing to repay the labour of a visit.

BALLINAFADD, 15 m. S.E. of Sligo, is a small village, but will afford shelter to the tourist who wishes to examine its vicinity. See the ruins of ancient Castle, picturesque and pleasing, the feudal den of the clan MacDonough, with thick walls, circular tower, and most extensive prospects over the Curlew mountains, along Lough Arrow; and along a wild but romantic valley to the S. Ballymote, 5 m. N.W., has a Castle which presents a good specimen of ancient military architecture at the commencement of the 14th century, when erected by Richard de Burgo, the red Earl of Ulster, a man of high power and possessions. The ruins are still very extensive, and seem almost to bid defiance to time. Six round towers, one of which is 53 feet in height, flanked the walls that were 9 feet in thickness, with a gallery or covered way of communication all round. At the end of the town are some remains of the ancient Ch., with some finely pointed Gothic arches, and curious east window. Franciscan Friary. Somewhere in this vicinity is Corren, with curious caves called the Giant's House, with an approach cut in the rock, steep and difficult. Lough Arrow, already noticed under Roscommon, presents much romantic scenery. On its banks, in a wild open district, stood a Convent of Dominican nuns (1427) in honour of the Virgin. At present little remains except the Ch., called Ballindown Abbey, in sufficient preservation to show its ancient form, though unroofed. It consists principally of two Chapels united by a belfry, with this curious architectural whim, that the east and west windows only are Gothic, but all the others elliptical.

ENNISCROWEN, or ENISCRONE, about 28 m. W. of Sligo, may be visited by those who venture to explore the wild recesses of the barony of Tyreragh. Castle Connor, near to it, has curious caves, lined and roofed with great stones, on a hill, as yet scarcely noticed by the antiquary. Close to the sea stand the remains of the ancient Castle of Roslee, sombre and solitary. Little more now exists than one lofty tower, in the thickness of whose walls is a curious staircase leading to the gloomy apartments within. The Castle was originally of considerable extent, and near it runs a rivulet, traditionally said to have once been fitted with a weir for the purpose of catching salmon; the fish, by an ingenious contrivance, ringing a bell as soon as caught, and thereby giving notice to the cook of their capture. At Screen, 15 m. N.E., see Danish-Stone Rath on a hill.

SLIGO, 104 m. N.W. of Dublin, stands upon a river, by which the waters of Lough Gilly are discharged into a large bay, and which admits vessels of 200 tons up to its quay. See Court-House, Gaol, Barrack, Infirmary, and Charter School; Custom House and quays; much trade; good accommodations. Close to the town, and pleasantly seated on the river Gilly, near its confluence with the sea, stand the ruins of the ancient Abbey, of early foundation, but burnt down in the 15th century, and immediately afterwards rebuilt in a very superior style of sculpture and architecture. It has two large chapels divided by a square belfry, the tower of which is entire except the battlements, and resting on a lofty Gothic arch. The other arches of the Gothic colonnades are lofty, and enriched with foliage and angels. The Ch. is completely uncovered; three sides of the cloisters have an arched roof in pretty good preservation: their arches are semicircular; but a profusion of Gothic ornament exists in other parts of the edifice. The front and sides of the altar are ornamented with Gothic arches, foliage, and tracery; and there still remain pedestals for statues, whose sanctity could not work miracles against Time. The tourist must not neglect to notice the eastern window, which is very beautiful. Around the nave is a stone gallery; and at a height of several feet from the ground may still be seen the tomb of O'Connor, lord of Sligo, his figure and that of his lady kneeling on each side of an altar. Taking a ramble about 4 m. S. from the town, the tourist will see, at the foot of a small hill, the neat village and Abbey of Ballysadere, erected about the 12th century for Augustine monks. At present nothing can be traced but the arches of the belfry and a small part of the tower, built of black stone: not far distant are the picturesque remains of an ancient Chapel, with windows of cut stone, and some curious carved heads on the doorway. Visit Nymphsfield near Ballysadere, where there is a waterfall worth sketching. The Giant's Grave, or Lugne Clogh consists of several stones resembling Stonehenge. Innismurry is an island of the north coast, with curious subterraneous cells: also interesting to the sportsman. Lough Gilly abounding with romantic scenery; about 5 m. long, and 2 broad. Its greatest charm is Hazelwood, the beautiful seat of Mr. Wynn, at the end of a wooded peninsula which runs out into the water, and is seen to most advantage from the lake. On the opposite side of the lake, contrasting finely with the lawns and artificial arrangements of Hazelwood, is seen a range of rude mountains, partially planted and cultivated; beyond which is another range in fine retiring distance. In the island of Innismore are ruins of an old Ch. of the Culdees, covered with ivy, and marked by numerous superstitions. Knocknaree is a mountain of considerable altitude and extensive base, in a wide field of desolation. Malachwee hill has a curiously fantastic appearance, with extensive prospect. See Mercury, the modern castellated seat of Mr. Cooper, built of limestone.

MINERALS.