Part 15
CARLINGFORD, 7 m. E. of Dundalk, of great antiquity, seated on a bay 3 m. in length, capable of receiving the largest vessels; but yet so full of rocks as to be extremely dangerous. But even these rocks are advantageous to the epicurist, for here he will find the finest green-finned oysters, long so celebrated among the lovers of good eating. When first founded, it consisted entirely of castles, or fortified mansions, erected for the protection of the English Pale against the incursions of the unconquered northern Septs. The principal Castle has been attributed to King John, or perhaps to De Courcy; very well situated to defend a narrow pass at the foot of the mountains close by the sea, where only a few men can march abreast, as there are most dangerous rocks washed by the sea on one side, whilst the other consists of lofty mountains almost impassable. The Castle itself is now a mere mass of ruins, triangular in its shape, and seated on a solid rock, with walls 11 feet in thickness. On the S. side enough remains to mark the ancient apartments. The view from it is extremely fine, with the ocean on one side, and on the other the lofty mountains of Mourne, which present a sublime spectacle. At the S. side of the town are the picturesque ruins of an ancient Dominican Abbey, founded by De Burgh, earl of Ulster, in the 14th century. Of this abbey little remains but the Ch., whose ivyed towers and battlemented walls present a very interesting object, much heightened by the surrounding romantic mountain scenery. See the lime-quarry, 1/4 m. distant, at the foot of a high mountain, mixed with basaltes, crystallizations of pyrites, shells, &c. From the situation of the town, the sun is lost several hours behind the hills after sunrise and before sunset.
CASTLE BELLINGHAM, 7 m. S. of Dundalk, is seated on an extensive but shallow bay; pleasant village, with good Inn. Good station for the sportsman, plenty of aquatic wild fowl. See at Greenmount, curious earth-works on summit of hill, with a tumulus: prospect extensive.
DROGHEDA, 18 m. S. of Dundalk, (partly in Louth, partly in Eastmeath, being divided by the Boyne) is also a county of itself. Here are 9 Catholic chapels, 2 Friaries, 2 Nunneries, and 1 Ch. (St. Peter's) elegantly finished, near which, in churchyard, see remains of ancient castle. The view on approaching the town is beautiful; house of the Catholic primate a striking object. Harbour good; trade extensive; supply of fish excellent. See Tholsel, a handsome edifice. St. Mary's, now a mere mass of ruins, with the exception of a roofed chapel, which is used for divine service; but it deserves notice for a lofty arch at the S. end, which marks the former splendour of the edifice. Bevrac Mount, a large artificial tumulus, stands about 600 yards distant. It appears to have been one of the large Raths raised in ancient times. The town is interesting for the part it bore in the Irish wars; and sustained a memorable siege in Cromwell's time. Near it is a thin blue stone, shaped like the bottom of a boat, on which many of the Catholics believe St. Dennis sailed over to France. Ascend the Boyne 2 m., and visit the field of battle where William conquered, and where Schomberg fell, also Walker the patriotic defender of Derry. The view of the scene from a rising ground, looking down upon it, is extremely fine. Mark the vale losing itself amidst bold acclivities; on the right the Obelisk on a rising ground, a noble pillar and judiciously placed. Let the tourist place himself at its foot, and recall the events of past times! Then proceed further 9 m. W. of Drogheda, where is a beautiful wooded glen celebrated as the route through which King William's army marched to the ford in the Boyne water on the eventful 1st of July, 1690. The scenery around is highly interesting. Collon village, 6 m. distant, must not be omitted by the statistical tourist, as an instance of what can be done in Ireland by modern improvement. The exertions of Mr. Foster, in this place, have been well appreciated by Mr. Wakefield, who describes it as delightfully situated amongst hills, whilst the extensive plantations of its benevolent founder are conspicuous in every direction for many miles. Mr. W. adds, that this domain commands a prospect of singular magnificence; the immediate foreground, looking N.E., consists of a declivity of tilled land bordered on each side by beautiful plantations; and the eye, then passing over some miles of country, catches a view of Carlingford-bay, forming a watery expanse of great extent, and of the coast stretching to a considerable distance, with the mountains surrounding the bay, and those of Mourne, still higher, and which have a blacker appearance. The blue colour of the bay, contrasted with the yellow tint of the sandy beach by which it is bordered, the Carlingford mountains in the vicinity, and the more elevated dusky ones of Mourne, stretching inland in the form of an immense amphitheatre, form, in Mr. W's opinion, a spectacle grand and magnificent. The village, when he visited it, consisted of about one hundred neat houses, all whitewashed; with a Ch. surrounded by trees, and a river running through it, over which there is a stone bridge; the whole much enlivened by a bleaching-green on its banks. All this, together with a cotton manufactory, has been the labour of 40 years. It is highly worthy of notice, and is easily accessible by the good roads in its vicinity. The botanist will receive much pleasure from the inspection of the very fine collection of indigenous and exotic shrubs which Mr. Foster has collected round his comfortable mansion. See also _Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 292. Observe the Ch. tower, of chaste Gothic architecture; the curious winter garden. In a romantic valley, 5 m. W. from Drogheda and about 1-1/2 m. from the banks of the Boyne, stand the once massy but now dilapidated ruins of Mellifont Abbey, founded for Cistertian monks, by O'Carrol prince of Uriel, in the 12th century, and a spot of great interest in the history of the English invasion of Ireland; for here died, and now lies interred, Dervorgilla, daughter of O'Malaghlin, king of Meath, a second Helen, who being married to Tigernach O'Rourke prince of Brefinny, was basely ravished by Mac Murrogh king of Leinster, who was in consequence forced to fly from his dominions, and sought that succour from Henry II. which led to the subjugation of the island. At the Dissolution it was given to Sir Edward Moore, who made it a castellated residence; but it afterwards became a ruin, and within the last fifty years has suffered extremely. The most curious part is a remnant of an octagonal baptistery. See _Hoare_, p. 242. Monasterboice, a village about 3 m. from Drogheda, has a good specimen of the ancient round towers, 110 feet in height and 51 in circumference, with walls of the thickness of 3 feet 6 inches. The door is at present only 6 feet from the ground; and it appears to have contained six stories, from the stones that project in the interior. The tower itself is built of a slaty stone, frequent in the hills in the vicinity; but the door is cased of freestone. Its summit is already in decay. Near it are the ruins of two Chapels; also two very curious crosses, the largest 18 feet in height, with a variety of sculptures. A good view is given by Grose. See _Hoare_, p. 237. Torfeckan village stands near the sea, and about 3-1/2 m. from Drogheda. It was once a place of some importance, though now a paltry village, with nothing remarkable but some towers of its ancient Castle, fast falling into decay; and connected with some ruins of an Abbey founded for nuns in the 12th century. Till within these few years the Castle had been habitable, and was a frequent residence of the Archbishops of Armagh, to which see it belongs. See ruins of Glasspistol Castle.
DUNDALK, 40 m. N. of Dublin, is one of the most ancient towns in Ireland, claiming an early foundation from its bay and harbour on the Irish Channel.--Being at the very extremity of what was called the "English Pale," it often became exposed to hostilities, and presented a mass of castles and towers, for the purposes of defence, of which some remains may still be traced. See the remains of an ancient monastery for Crouched Friars, since turned into an hospital: also some ruins of a house of Gray Friars, of which a curious square tower still remains; the prospect from its summit is rich and extensive. Notice the Market-house. Inquire for Dundalk cambrics. See handsome seat of Lord Roden, with curious antique portraits of Hen. VIII. and Anne Bulleyn; spacious gardens; extensive well wooded demesne. See Court-house, Gaol, Barracks, and Charter School. Town irregular, yet neat; many of the houses displaying considerable taste and elegance. About a mile westward, on the summit of a hill, seen for several miles along the great north road, and commanding a most extensive prospect of the Mourne and Carlingford mountains, are some remains of a fine old Danish station and rath; a little below which, the tourist will notice the ruins of an old Ch. or Chapel, enveloped in ivy, and pointing out a Catholic cemetery of great sanctity. On the side of the hill stands the Castle of Castletown, an ancient edifice with towers and battlements, but partly repaired and habitable, forming the offices to a more modern mansion close to it. This castle was taken and sacked in the 14th century by Edward Bruce; and there are some apparent vestiges of those times in earth-works on the side of the hill, towards the river. The village itself is small, and contains nothing else deserving of notice. Balrichan is a peninsula, about 2 m. from Dundalk, containing several curious antiquities; some Druidical remains; ruins of a Castle with subterraneous cave; the Giant's load, a massy stone 12 feet long, 6 feet square, resting on three uprights; Mount Albani, an earthen camp, with a tumulus: also Castle Rath, and the tower of Ballug. At Bellurgan, see the park. Piedmont, a beautiful residence of Lord Clermont; ruins of old Ch. and several Castles. Carrickasticken has several raths, or sepulchral mounts. Fanghar, 2 m. N., has curious artificial mount, composed of stones and tarras, 60 feet high. At Killincool, on the Atherdee road, a fine old Castle, with numerous vaults and secret passages. Lurgan Green, a smart agreeable village; and a few miles N., see the Jonesborough mountains, in all their native wildness. Near them is Ravensdale, romantically seated on the rise of a mountain, with fine hanging-woods on every side. On the summit of a rocky hill, 4 m. S., curious rath at Miltown; and, close to the frontier of the English Pale,--in appearance and situation very much resembling Bolsover Castle in England,--stand the majestic ruins of Roche Castle, now in a state of demolition, the victim of Cromwellian policy. It is well situated for defence; and the builder having adopted the form of the precipice on which it stands, for additional security, its form approaches near to a semicircle in the interior, though on the outside it more resembles a triangle. Its greatest length is 80 yards; its breadth at the broadest part is 40. At one corner is a lofty tower, once august but now in ruins. The view from it is not only extensive, but extremely fine.
DUNLEER, 10 m. S. of Dundalk, is a decayed village, but with good inns, being on the high north road; may be made a station for many of the objects in this vicinity.
LOUTH, 7 m. S.W. of Dundalk, is now but a decayed village, though giving name to the county; once famous for an Abbey and Priory, but all vestiges swept away.
MINERALS.
Nothing remarkable.
BOTANY.
_Artemisia maritima β_, a variety of Sea Wormwood:--on sea-shore.
_Bunias Cakile_, Sea Rocket:--on the sands near Maiden Tower near Drogheda.
_Cuscuta europæa_, Dodder:--on dry sandy banks near Maiden Tower near Drogheda.
_Lepidium ruderale_, Narrow-leaved Wild Cress, or Dittander; near the sea.
_Salicornia europæa herbacea_, Jointed Glasswort:--on the sea shore.
_Sambucus nigra_, Elder:--in hedges.
_Saponaria officinalis_, Soapwort:--in ditches.
MAYO
Forms the N.W. extremity of the island, and is one of the largest counties, with a great extent of coast. Great part of it is mountainous, boggy, and destitute of roads; but it contains much picturesque scenery highly deserving of investigation, particularly the two lofty mountains of Nephin and Croagh Patrick, the latter of which is an enormous pyramid, and may be seen 40 miles distant. This county abounds, especially in the rocky districts, with _Turlachs_, a name given to plains, some of them very extensive without any visible communication with brooks or rivers, which in the summer afford a rich and firm pasturage, but in the winter become perfect lakes; the waters rising and falling through rocky clefts in the bottoms. Bounded, S. by Galway; W. Atlantic Ocean; N. by Sligo; and E. by Roscommon.
ACHILL ISLANDS, 16 m. W. from Castlebar, lie at the mouth of Clewbay, and afford much amusement to the sportsman. The scenery wild and rude.
BALLINROBE, 11 m. S. of Castlebar, a well-built town. See Charter School and ruins of Abbey; ancient Castle, now Horse Barracks; the inn clean and comfortable. At Ballaghadireen, wild and romantic scenery; ancient Castle in ruins. Ballyhannys, 16 m. N.E. has ruins of venerable Abbey. Cong, now an inconsiderable village, was once the capital of the Kings of Connaught; and stands in a romantic situation between the Loughs Corrib and Mask. It contains some ruins of an Abbey, which, in consequence of its arches being partly semicircular and partly Gothic or pointed, is supposed to be as early as the 12th century. Long celebrated for its sanctity, it became for ages the sepulchral depôt of the powerful and the holy, the chieftain and the priest, whose dust lies mingled with its sombre yet majestic ruins. Near it a broad river rushes at once from beneath a sloping bank, and after a rapid course loses itself in the Lough. This is supposed to be the outlet of a subterraneous channel, through which the superfluous waters of Lough Mask are discharged. The scenery around is most romantic. Hollymount, 6 m. N.E., has a neat Ch.; also Newbrook House, seat of Lord Clanmorris. Lough Carra, 3 m. N., has some wild scenery, especially a tract of rocky ground, at a distance like an immense sheet of white stone, deserving mineralogical notice. Lough Mask offers some good scenery:--inquire for the gillaroo trout with gizzards like a fowl. Neal village, 3 m. S., with magnificent mansion of Lord Kilmaine. About 16 m. N.E., visit the Abbey of Urlare in a wild, romantic, secluded district. The walls are still entire, and were never very lofty; the eastern window is very fine, with the remains of an altar beneath it. It was anciently a place of great sanctity; and the sepulchral depository of the surrounding chieftains. Archdall states, from tradition, that a town once existed in its vicinity.
CASTLEBAR, 119 m. N.W. from Dublin, is the county town; of good appearance, and in a romantic situation on a river near the Lake of Raheens. See the venerable Castle of Lord Lucan; Barracks; two Bridges; and Ch. Memorable as being taken by the French in 1798. At Ball, or Ballagh, see remains of Abbey, lofty round tower, and holy well; and near to it the plains of Mayo, where once stood a city, with ruins of Cathedral and other vestiges. Belcarna, 2 m. S.E., in romantic situation on banks of a fine river; Ch., and mansion of Lord Tyrawley. Ballintubber Abbey has extensive remains, 5 m. S.W., a mass of ruins, but still offering some very fine specimens of ancient ecclesiastical architecture in its solemn Gothic arcades. Grose has given a fine view of the interior of the Abbey, which, he observes, was a noble structure, of excellent workmanship, and the whole admirably finished. The existing ruins are by no means equal to the original extent; but much gratification will be afforded by the examination of the chancel part, still in good preservation in consequence of the roof remaining, with two Chapels on each side into which the visitor is admitted through lofty Gothic arches. The roof of the chancel is curious, its groinings springing not from pillars, but from consoles in the side-walls, highly ornamented with sculpture. The great altar still remains under the east window, which consists of three arches; and the altars yet exist in the smaller chapels. See the noble arch, 45 feet in height, which once supported the now fallen tower; also the principal door, a pointed arch supported by pillars. In various parts of the thick walls are doors and passages, speaking of secrecy and seclusion, and dear to the lover of romance. Croagh Patrick mountain, 2660 feet high, presents a fine effect to the S.W. Foxford, 8 m. N.E., is in decay, but sweetly seated on the river Moy: near it are ruins of an old Castle, with lake, and ruins of Ch. At Kilkelly, 10 m. E. is a remarkable echo, repeating seven times clearly and distinctly, in a wild romantic glen, ornamented with thick foliage and a murmuring Stream. Lough Conn, 5 m. N.E., is surrounded by picturesque scenery; with ruins of Friary on Erew peninsula. Mount Nephin, a solitary mountain 2640 feet high, stands at the pass of Barnagee, with most extensive prospect, about 8 m. N. of Castlebar. At Strade, 5 m. E., are some very solemn ruins of an ancient Dominican Abbey of the 13th century, which contains some curious specimens of antique tombs of the superior order of Irish chieftains, adorned with figures in relief. See also the Gothic ornaments of the high altar. Whilst in this vicinity the antiquarian tourist will not neglect to visit the round tower of Turlogh, 70 feet in height, 9 in internal diameter, and having its entrance 29 feet from the ground. It is built close to the Ch.; or rather the Ch. has been erected so close to it as to touch it, and, though of more modern structure, is now in ruins.
KILLALA, a seaport, 15 m. N. of Castlebar, is memorable for the landing of the French in 1798. Situation pleasant. See Cathedral; episcopal palace; round tower. Ballina, 5 m. S.E., stands pleasantly on the river Moy, with a good salmon fishery; some ancient Castles in vicinity. Downpatrick, 12 m. W., has some remains of very ancient fortifications, with curious natural arch formed by the waves on the rocky shore; several other caverns and much romantic scenery in the vicinity. At Mullet in the western district is much scenery worth seeing, also a very ancient and curious monument in good preservation, called by Governor Pownall, in the 7th vol. of _Archæologia_, a ship Temple, upon the summit of a conical hill. The river Moy, which divides this county from Sligo, has on its banks three round towers, and ruins of several Abbeys. Moyne Abbey, 2 m. distant, has most venerable ruins in a romantic sequestered situation on the Moy. The ruins extensive and in good preservation; scenery most picturesque. 3 m. distant are some curious remains of an ancient Franciscan Monastery, called Rossarick. It is built of blueish stone, with arches principally Gothic. The tower remains, and has a confession-box of hewn stone with small oriels or little ears on each side, through which the penitents whispered their sorrows.
WESTPORT, 8 m. S.W. of Castlebar, is a regular built modern town, with many handsome houses and a most excellent inn, which renders it a good station for the tourist, as it lies well for the whole western district, in which there is much romantic scenery, diversified by marine views, lakes, and rivers. See Marquis of Sligo's elegant residence. Aghagower, 10 m. S.E., has ruins of fine old Abbey and round tower. Burrishoole, 5 m. N., has extensive ruins of Abbey. Carigahooly has ruins of Grana Uile's Castle. Croagh Patrick must be visited. Glanmire interests the mineralogist by its slate quarries. Morisk on the sea coast is supposed to be the place where St. Patrick drove all the venomous reptiles into the ocean. Newport Pratt has a good harbour with most romantic scenery, of mountain, rock, sea, and islands. Rockfleet is an old Castle of Grace O'Malley, or Grana Uile.
MINERALS.
Iron-ore in Clonean river.
BOTANY.
Requires a scientific explorer.
MEATH:--
_See_ EASTMEATH.
MONAGHAN
Is a hilly county, not in ridges, but scattered without any form or regularity. It is well cultivated and populous; and has several handsome seats, whose surrounding plantations give a cheerful effect to the scenery. Linen manufacture extensive. Bounded S. and W. by Cavan and Fermanagh; N. by Tyrone; E. by Armagh; S.E. by Eastmeath and Louth.
CARRICKMACROSS, 15 m. S.E. of Monaghan, is a considerable village, central to the southern district, with endowed school. Some small lakes in vicinity.
CASTLEBLANEY, 10 m. S.E. of Monaghan, is a considerable village with good Ch. Near it the Castle from whence it takes its name, the residence of Lord Blaney, a beautiful place, though on a small scale, seated on the banks of a well wooded lake, surrounded by pretty rising hills. Here are some ruins of the old Castle, but not of earlier date than the reign of James I. See neat Market-house, and examine the Improvement Farm at Blaney-lodge. Ballybay, 5 m. N.W., is a neat village, with 2 small lakes that merit notice.
CLONES, or CLOWNISH, 10 m. W. of Monaghan, is a comfortable village; station for the western district. See two Raths of Danish erection; remnants of Abbey for Augustines, also of ancient Castle. Market-cross of very antique appearance. Curious burial-places near the ruins of abbey, with ornamented tombstones. The Round Tower in the cemetery has walls four feet thick; contiguous to it a great tomb or stone coffin, with antique inscriptions. Close to it is an immense rath on summit of a hill. Numerous Danish forts all around. In Aghabeg, see numerous lakes: also the magnificent demesne of Dawsongrove, with mausoleum. Bellamont forest affords some very fine scenery. Near Clones is a well called Grana-buy-more, celebrated for curing the jaundice. Drum is a pleasant little village. Good plantations at Newbliss.
GLASSLOUGH, 5 m. N.E. of Monaghan, has a fine seat in vicinity, with a beautiful sheet of water. See Drumbanagher, to the W. a remarkable high hill, on the summit of which, remains of a fort, memorable in the rebellion of 1641. Emyvale is a pleasant little village in the vicinity; near it Eregil Ch., with numerous small lakes.
MONAGHAN, 63 m. N. of Dublin; the assize town. Town neat, but whimsically built, diverging triangularly from the centre. Handsome Market-house.
MINERALS.
Lead; antimony; manganese; ironstone; marble; coal; various ochres; fuller's-earth, and potter's clay. The principal lead ores are at Castleblaney, and contiguous to the Ch. of Clontibrett.
BOTANY.
Rich in aquatic plants generally, and in alpine plants on the Slievebaught or Slabay range of mountains, bordering on Tyrone.
QUEEN'S COUNTY
Presents an immense variety of objects to the antiquary; whilst to the statist it exhibits the effects of modern improvement, having become a fruitful and pleasant district instead of bogs and deserts. Bounded W. by King's County; N. by Kildare; E. by Carlow; S. by Kilkenny and Tipperary.