Part 14

FENAUGHT, 8 m. N.E. of Carrick, is a wild open district, presenting little worth notice except the venerable ruins of what was once a celebrated Divinity School of the Culdees. It is picturesquely overrun with ivy. The E. window is considered as a specimen of very curious workmanship; and the tourist must not fail to notice a line drawn across the middle of the eastern gable, with a figure on the N. side, about 12 feet from the ground, said to represent an evil spirit who was very troublesome to St. Cullin, the founder, during the period of its erection, this black gentleman acting the part of Penelope towards her suitors, and pulling down in the night what the Saint and his holy comrades had set up during the day. To check the troublesome intruder, the Saint blessed some ropes and drew them one night along the top of the building, when the Spirit, like a fly in a spider's nest, got entangled in the ropes, and being unable to extricate himself, was caught by the monks in the morning, who gave him some sound correction for his offence, but set him loose again upon the public, as is too often done by our modern police, and pretty much, perhaps, for similar purposes. 1/2 m. dist. two Druidical Altars.

JAMESTOWN, 2 m. S.E. of Carrick, a small town with ruins of a Castle.--Visit Carrigallan and Clongorrin Castles, about 12 m. E. Lough Bofin lies to the S. About 1 m. from Rusky, is a view which Mr. Hall considers one of the finest in Ireland, looking into Roscommon across Lough Bofin or Achary.

LEITRIM, 3 m. N. of Carrick, is a small town, or village, but gives name to the county.--Visit Lough Allen, encompassed by high mountains and more than 30 m. in circuit, presenting a most picturesque landscape. It is the first depository for the river Shannon, which rises a few miles distant on Quilca hill in Fermanagh, and tumbles down the mountains in tremendous cascades. On Inse Island see ruins of a Ch., a place of high religious estimation as a cemetery.

MANOR HAMILTON, 22 m. N.W. of Carrick, deserves notice from its romantic situation among mountains; a small neat village forming a good station to visit the western district. Here is a Castle built in the reign of Elizabeth. 3 m. N.W. a grotesque Castle of the O'Rourkes. Dromahaire is a small town seated on the river Boonid, worth visiting on account of its Abbey, (1508) which presents a pleasing specimen of Gothic ruins. Visit the romantic and picturesque Lough Gill; also Lough Melve, ornamented with wooded islands and venerable ruins. At Lurganbuy, the beautiful residence of Mr. Wynne.

MINERALS.

The mineralogical tourist must visit the red stone river, with its various coloured clays. The mountains present ores of lead, iron and copper, particularly near Lough Allen; also coal, and pipe clay.

BOTANY.

_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--in various places.

LIMERICK

Is amongst the largest of the Irish counties, extending along the southern bank of the Shannon, and therefore, though not maritime, yet enjoying, or capable of enjoying, all the benefits of maritime intercourse. Those who are merely in search of the wild and romantic, may perhaps be disappointed by its scenery, as it cannot be esteemed mountainous, except in the W.; yet being diversified by small hills, it might soon become highly picturesque if ornamental cultivation were once to extend over its rich pasture land, having no inclosures but rude earthen banks almost entirely bare of foliage, and only diversified by the squalid cabins of wretched cotters. On the borders of Kerry there is a fine amphitheatre of low but steep hills stretching in a curve from Drumcollogher to Loghil. These hills give rise to the river Maigue, and several smaller fertilizing streams, which traverse the county and fall into the Shannon. The numerous Castles crowded together in this county strongly mark its ancient feudal state. Bounded N. by the Shannon; N.E. by Tipperary; S. by Cork; W. by Kerry.

ADARE is an ancient town, 8 m. S.W. from Limerick, on the banks of the river Maigue, over which there is a good bridge, close to the ruins of the Abbey, whose lofty tower springs from a very curious arch, constructed with four diagonal ogives meeting in the centre. The ruins are yet in pretty good preservation, with beautiful Gothic cloisters, ornamented with escutcheons of arms. The edifice, being of limestone, has a curious yet venerable appearance. See the picturesque ruins of an ancient Castle, once the residence of the potent Earls of Desmond, and often the scene of hostile conflict during the early times, being often besieged and taken by the contending parties. There are vestiges of several other religious edifices; but the town itself is little more than a cluster of cabins, through which the tourist passes in his way to Killarney. In the vicinity is the demesne of the Quin family, beautifully diversified with wood and water, whilst its lawns, sloping down to both banks of the river, offer fine views of the ivied Abbeys nodding their venerable heads over the placid stream. Here too the tourist may wander delighted in silent contemplation through the long-drawn vistas of aged trees, and through shady walks, where once trod the saints and heroes of ancient times. See Mount Shannon, seat of Lord Clare, consisting of a large pile of building ornamented with plantations, near which are seen the environs of Limerick studded with neat houses belonging to its wealthy merchants.

ASKEYTON, 16 m. W. of Limerick, pleasantly situated on the Deel at its confluence with the Shannon; once fortified, now decayed. See the Castle, or rather its ruins; for of this ancient seat of the old Earls of Desmond, little more than one side wall remains. It stood on an island formed by the Deel river. The Hall, once the seat of hospitality, stands upon arches which are still pretty entire, but is now converted into a ball alley. Cross the river, and at the distance of a few hundred yards see the ruins of the Abbey, of which the cloisters still remain almost entire. These are described by Mr. Wakefield as extremely beautiful, being built of sculptured marble; and are perfect, with the exception of two pillars carried away some years ago by some person who considered them as holy reliques. See Bally England Castle ruins; also Ballymort, the beautiful seat of Mr. Massey; Courtferry Castle in ruins; Court, seat of Sir H. Harstonge. Glynn, 8 m. W., near Tarbert in Kerry, is a pleasant little village, seated at the mouth of a small romantic bay, surrounded by hills and high cliffs; with ruins of ancient Castle of the Knights of Glynn. The village of New Bridge, near it, is interesting as a colony of Palatines from Germany settled here by Lord Southwell about a century ago. Mr. Young speaks highly of their industry and cleanliness as superior to their Irish neighbours. Near it, the seat of Mr. Bateman. Rathkeal is a poor decayed village. See ruins of ancient Priory, with curious figure of a monk in a window, painted like Tom of Coventry. Extensive Barracks. Castle in ruins. 2 m. Shanagolden village in the vicinity affords shelter and refreshment. See ruins of Loughgill Castle, on a pleasant stream.

KILMALLOCK, 15 m. S. of Limerick, has by some been styled the "Balbec of Ireland," and Sir R. C. Hoare recommends it as an object highly worthy of the attention both of the artist and antiquary; but he adds, that as the former will find more than a day's work for his pencil, he must take up his abode either at Bruff or Charleville, in Cork, as the best accommodations at Kilmallock are but indifferent. Sir R. also observes that the first view of this place is singularly striking; with the appearance of a town suddenly deserted and left in ruins. Enter by the side of a lofty turreted gateway, leading into the principal street formed by a double line of houses excellently well built of stone, with a great uniformity in their style of architecture, evidently of the time of Elizabeth; but many of these are completely gutted, with nothing but the outward walls remaining. Once there was a strong wall with five gates; but only two remain. Parish Ch. in ruins, except the Choir; of Gothic architecture. See Monuments of the Vernons. Round Tower, and ruins of Friary. Visit St. Patrick's Well in the vicinity. Bruff is little better than a most miserable street of thatched hovels, with an indifferent inn, but affording post-horses to the traveller. Near it are a ruined Castle and Ch. The country flat and uninteresting. See Galbally village, 9 m. E., where are fragments of an extensive Monastery of Grey Friars, once splendid and magnificent in religious pomp. Kilfinnan, 6 m. S.E., has a Charter School, and ruins of an old Castle near it.

LIMERICK, 94 m. S.W. of Dublin, is seated on the Shannon. The Cathedral presents no very striking features either in architectural or monumental antiquities; the only piece of good old sculpture being the fragment of a monument in the S. aisle to the memory of the Galway family. On the N. side of the altar, the monument of the Thomonds. See the fine view of the Shannon and surrounding country from the ch. tower. Of the Castle, there are considerable remains on the banks of the river; but so blended with modern houses, as to produce no good effect or subject for the pencil. Public Edifices, Assembly Rooms, and Theatre, elegant and commodious. Improvements rapidly proceeding. Some remains of a Friary in Tan-yard, and Barracks. Linen and Paper Manufactories. See Thomond's bridge; Salmon-leap, 2 m. dist.; Marble and blue limestone Quarries; Glove Manufactory; handsome Custom-house; and Nunnery. Good hotel accommodations. See in vicinity, at Buan-rath, ancient monastic ruins. Cahirconlish has several castellated ruins. Carrigogunnel, 4 m. dist., stands proudly on a steep rock: its majestic ruins manifest the dignity of the ancient Earls of Desmond. Castle Connel, 6 m. E., boasts all the delights of a fashionable watering-place, celebrated for its medicinal water, and in the summer months much frequented by people from every part of the country. Mr. Wakefield describes it as a most beautiful village, deriving its name from an ancient Castle built on a rock. Connigar, 4 m. S., a delightful residence of the Bishop. Hospital has ruins of a Castle of those Knights, and of ancient Ch. Lough Gur, near Six-Mile-Bridge, deserves a visit for its romantic scenery, and the various Druidical monuments in its vicinity. On an island, ruins of Castle; also remains of Black Castle. See Cromlech and Rath on Knockfennel, with caves, and Round Tower on the Raven's Rock. Mungret has ruins of ancient Ch. and Abbey. Monister in Nenagh has ruins of magnificent Abbey; with Little Friars-town; and Balinaguard, with monuments of the Croker family.

NEWCASTLE, 18 m. S.W. of Limerick, may serve as a station for those who wish to traverse the wild scenery of the S.W.--Market House and Assembly Rooms; elegant modern Ch. Wild, mountainous and desolate scenery leads to Abbeyfeile, a pleasant village, 9 m. W. See ruins of Port Castle.

PALLIS, a small village in the S.E., 12 m. from Limerick, has a fine Ch. See ruins of Kilduff Castle.

MINERALS.

Nothing remarkable.

BOTANY.

_Euphorbia hiberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--near Anakirk.

_Helleborus fœtidus_, Great Bastard Black Hellebore, Bear's-foot or Tetter-wort:--on Slieve Baghtine and near Drumcallagher.

_Teucrium Scordium_, Water Germander:--in marshy places: on the banks of the Shannon near Limerick.

LONDONDERRY.

The mountainous scenery of this county is described by Mr. Wakefield as presenting neither roughness nor green herbage, but exhibiting something between both, which may be called uncultivated vegetation; while the lower parts are inundated with water, and in some places have been converted into bogs. The arable land is seldom divided to any extent, and the scenery is little enriched by the seats of the gentry or the elegancies of cultivation. Limestone, both white and blue, is frequent in this county; and the latter is often used in building, being not unlike marble: yet it is sometimes found in so friable a state as to be capable of being spread as manure without burning. In a limestone rock on the coast, there is a remarkable cavern, called the Robbers' Cave, which contains apartments where a large banditti some years ago concealed themselves, as a hoard for their booty, and were extremely troublesome to the vicinage. There are numerous rivers. Bounded S. by Tyrone, W. by Donnegal, E. by Lough-Neagh, and N. by the ocean.

COLERAINE, 23 m. N.E. of Derry, stands 4 m. from the sea, on the Bann; a general station for the Giants' Causeway, particularly when Bush Mills is crowded. See the Falls of the Bann, or Salmon Leap, well described in Dr. Drummond's poem on the Giants' Causeway. Near the bridge a small rath or mount like those on Salisbury Plain. Famous for fine linens. Extensive prospects from surrounding hills. Ch. pleasantly situated. Old-fashioned house and grounds of Jackson Hall; at Down Hill, seat of Sir Hervey Bruce, some good paintings; waterfall near the entrance of the grounds.

LONDONDERRY is a city 115 m. N.W. of Dublin, about 1 m. in circumference, which the tourist will visit with interest, on account of its well known siege in 1690. Walk round the walls; see the Cathedral, of some antiquity (1633), the wooden bridge, 1/3 of a m. in length over a branch of Loch-Foyle, serving also as an aqueduct. Town-hall and Market-house; the Episcopal Palace, with the gardens outside of the walls, from whence there is a fine prospect. The view of the city from the bridge, with the shipping, and backed by lofty hills, is worthy of notice. The view of this town at the distance of a mile or two is most picturesque, seeming to be built on an island of bold land rising from the river, and backed by extensive hills. The philanthropic tourist will not fail to visit the Infirmary, a handsome spacious edifice under good regulations; also the Repository for Work, and the Institution for small loans to the industrious poor. (See Curwen, vol. i. p. 232, for rules and regulations.) Good accommodations and post-horses. At 3 m. N., see Aileach Neid, an ancient rath or castle of the O'Neils, constructed like the Danish forts, and destroyed by Murtogh O'Brian in 1101. Clady is a small village pleasantly seated on the river Faughan, with ruins of O'Cane's Castle near it. Lough Foyle is a fine expanse of water, 14 m. by 8, and forms a most commodious harbour.

KILREA, 26 m. N.E. of Derry, on the borders of Antrim; stands pleasantly on the river Bann, and is a very cheerful little town, surrounded by opulence and industry from the linen manufacture.

MAGHERAFELT, 30 m. E. of Derry, is a very neat village, and forms a good station for the eastern district, and for Lough-Neagh. Maghera is a small village, in an agreeable neighbourhood. The tract of land on this side of Carntogher Mountains, called the Braeface, exhibits some delightful scenery. The cottages are built in tufts of hawthorn-trees, the humble but happy abodes of an industrious peasantry; deep glens, lined with bushes and shrubs, winding from the higher parts of the mountain, mark the progress of the winter floods, and terminate in the Moyola which runs below. The Danish forts or raths are numerous; and there is some curious antique sculpture over the church door.

NEWTON LIMAVADDY, 12 m. N.E. of Derry, is a neat town of one street, seated in a woody glen watered by a stream, and surrounded by beautiful scenery. Between it and Derry are some very fine views of the latter city; the Lough appearing to great advantage, bounded by a bold and precipitous hill towards the north; also a seat of the Beresford family, with a fine approach through a wood of stately oaks, and a rich underwood of holly. Accommodations and roads good. At Dungiven, 6 m. S.E., see the quarry of Alknever, which produces very fine sandstone of the best quality and of a tawny colour, not unlike Portland stone. Extensive mountain scenery, and pleasing landscapes on the river Roe. See the Old Castle, ancient Ch. and Monuments; numerous Raths, and curious Cave 2 m. distant. Magilligan is famous for its rabbit-warren.

MINERALS.

Iron ore:--near Castle Dawson. Small veins of lead and copper. Crystals found near Dungiven.

BOTANY.

_Agrostis stolonifera_, Fiorin-grass, called in England Joint-grass.

_Anthoxanthum odoratum_, Sweet Vernal-grass:--in woods and coarse grounds.

_Alopecurus geniculatus_, Flute Foxtail:--in wet grounds.

_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Reed:--on the shores.

_Alchemilla vulgaris_, Ladies Mantle:--a plant of great elegance in high pastures.

_Achillea Millefolium_, Yarrow:--in pastures on the banks of the Fahan.

_Angelica sylvestris_, Wild Angelica:--an aromatic plant in woods and moist hedges.

_Arenaria peploides_, Sea Sand-wort:--an elegant plant, abounding on the coast.

_Borago officinalis_, Borage:--on the banks of the Bann.

_Caltha palustris_, Marsh-Marigold:--in most parts.

_Campanula rotundifolia_, Round-leaved Bell-flower:--on the barren pastures near Downhill.

_Convolvulus Sepium_, Great Bind-weed:--among plantations near the sea.

_Digitalis purpurea_, Foxglove:--very common near ditches.

_Elymus arenarius_, Sea Lime-grass:--on sandy grounds near the sea.

_Epilobium angustifolium_, Rosebay Willow-herb:--in hedges.

_Erica cinerea_, Fine Heath:--on moors and wastes.

_Erica multiflora_, Fir-leaved Heath:--on Magilligan Mountains.

_Festuca elatior_, Tall Fescue-grass:--in the woods of Aghanloo.

_Galium palustre_, White Ladies Bed-straw:--in moist meadows, and on the banks of the Bann.

_Hypericum pulchrum_, Upright St. John's Wort:--an elegant plant in woods and glens.

_Iris Pseud-acorus_, Common Flag:--a beautiful species in boggy meadows.

_Leontodon Taraxacum_, Dandelion:--in pastures.

_Lychnis Flos Cuculi_, Meadow Pink:--in low meadows at Aghanloo.

_Melica uniflora_, Single Wood-grass:--in wet wooded grounds.

_Melampyrum sylvaticum_, Wood Cow-weed:--in oak-woods.

_Nymphæa alba_, White Water-lily:--in lakes and rivers.

_Orchis Satyrion_, Orchis:--all the varieties to be found in high grounds and wet meadows.

_Parnassia palustris_, Grass of Parnassus:--in wet grounds.

_Potentilla anserina_, Silver Weed:--in dry pastures and meadows.

_Ranunculus Flammula_, Crowfoot:--in wet meadows.

_Saponaria officinalis_, Soapwort:--in dry ditches, but rare.

_Tanacetum vulgare_, Yellow Tansey:--in the river Roe, and sandy ditches in Drumbane.

_Trifolium alpestre_, Long-leaved Trefoil:--amongst the romantic fallen rocks of Bengevenogh.

_Veronica maritima_, Sea Speedwell:--several varieties on the coast.

_Viola odorata_, Sweet Violet:--under hedges, bushes, &c.

_Zostera marina_, Grass-wrack:--on shallow beaches.

LONGFORD.

One of the smallest counties. A great proportion is a rude bog, denuded of timber, and with scarcely a seat of any consequence to attract the notice of the traveller: yet it is an object of attention to the statist, as he will here perceive the rapid effects of industry from the linen manufacture. Bounded W. by Roscommon, N. by Leitrim and Cavan, E. and S. by Westmeath.

ARDAGH, 5 m. S.E. of Longford.--See some slight remains of the Cathedral. Abbey Shrule has some ruins of a Convent of Cistertians, near which Tenelick, the handsome house and extensive demesne of the late Lord Annaly.

BALLIMAHON, 9 m. S. of Longford, is a small but neat town, standing on the river Inny, in the southern district, surrounded by some pleasing scenery.

COLEHILL, 10 m. S.E. of Longford, may be taken as the station for visiting Abbey Shrule, &c. Near it see Tashiny Church, and ruins of an old Castle.

EDGWORTHSTOWN, 6 m. S.E. of Longford, is a considerable and improving village, enlivened by the residence of the literary family from whom it takes its name. Those who have derived pleasure from the productions of Miss Edgworth, may receive much amusement from particulars respecting that family in _Hall's Tour_, vol. ii. p. 15 et seq. See handsome Ch., and spire of cast iron. In the vicinity are extensive slate quarries. See _Curwen_, ii. 212.

GRANARD, 9 m. E. of Longford, is a neat town, consisting of one handsome street about half a mile long, at the head of which stands the Castle, built on a singular hill rising to a considerable height. It is called the Moat of Granard, and by some supposed to be artificial. The prospect from the summit extends into several counties. Near it ruins of Larna Abbey, founded by St. Patrick. The country round, bleak and mountainous. Lough-Shelon, in the vicinity, is 7 miles in length, and 4 broad. The artist may here select some wild scenery. In Lough-Garon; see some remains of an Abbey on an island; and another once noble edifice in another island--the Abbey of All Saints; and in the northern vicinity are the Lakes of Dernick and Earne, highly interesting to the picturesque tourist. The surrender of the invading French army and of the misguided rebels, to Lord Cornwallis in 1798, took place at Ballynamuck, a small village not far distant from Granard.

LANESBOROUGH, 6 m. S.W. of Longford, is seated on the Shannon, where it spreads into Lough Ree or Reagh. See handsome stone Bridge, and Ch. Kenagh is a small village amidst pretty scenery on a river of that name; and near to it is Moss-Town, the splendid residence of the Newcomen family; with ruins of Ch. and Castle in the vicinity. Lough-Ree contains numerous islands and much picturesque scenery; and is well deserving an artist's attention. Rathcline, about 2 m. from the bridge, has an ancient Castle on the banks of the Shannon, at the foot of the beautiful hill of Rathcline, and one of the most ancient castles in the kingdom, but dismantled by Cromwell. From the summit of the hill the prospect is most extensive.

LONGFORD, (the shire town,) 59 m. W. of Dublin, stands in the midst of pleasing scenery on the river Camlin. See Ch.; Gaol; Court-house; Market-house; Barracks, and Charter School. At Killashee, see ruins of old Ch. and Brianstown Castle; also Tomonbarry Bridge over the Shannon. Newton Forbes is a small but pleasing village, with a good Ch.

MINERALS.

The soil generally consists of argillaceous, siliceous, and calcareous strata; with flags and slates, but there is a fine field of research for the mineralogist in the mountains.

BOTANY.

_Inula Helenium_, Elecampane:--in meadows.

_Lichen herbaceus_, Green Lichen:--on ash-trees.

_Oenanthe crocata_, Hemlock Dropwort:--in marshy grounds.

LOUTH

Is a small maritime county, undulating in general, though some well wooded hills at intervals afford variety to the picturesque eye. It contains numerous relics of antiquity, being in the heart of what was the Old English Pale. Bounded S. and S.W. by Eastmeath; W. Monaghan and Cavan; N. Armagh and Down; E. by the Irish Channel.

ATHERDEE, or ARDEE, 12 m. S.W. of Dundalk. See the Gaol, once an extensive fortress, gloomy and yet venerable. Ch., a mass of ruins except the chapel; a high wall encircles it, and its solemn appearance is much increased by the lofty trees which shade the sepulchral heaps that surround its mouldering walls. See Castle Guard, supposed by some to have been a sepulchral monument, perhaps a mote or meeting-place for the chiefs and people, 90 feet high, circumference at base 600, 140 at summit, with remains of two concentric octagonal buildings: the trench wide and deep, well planted. At Millextown, see ancient Ch. with gable end at some distance, reported to have been blown there in a gale of wind!