The Scientific Tourist through Ireland in which the traveller is directed to the principal objects of antiquity, art, science & the picturesque

Part 12

Chapter 123,414 wordsPublic domain

TRALEE, 144 m. S.W. of Dublin, is a corporate and assize town, with a neat square in the centre surrounded by the Court-house and Gaol.--See the old Castle of the Desmonds, the Parish Ch., and some remains of an ancient Dominican Convent. The town is finely situated at the bottom of an extensive bay, surrounded by lofty mountains. Near it is a chalybeate spring. 2-1/2 m. see Ballybegan, with ruins of ancient Castle, and some curious caves, with a subterranean river, and various specimens of stalactite; also a quarry of dark grey marble interspersed with spar. Mineralogists may trace a vein of potter's lead ore running amongst the limestone rocks. Castlemain, about 4 m. S., is an inconsiderable place, but presents some pretty scenery on the river Mang which falls into the bay. Between Tralee Bay and Castlemain, are the lofty mountains of Sliebhmish. On the top of Cahir Conregh is a circle of massy stones, by some supposed Druidical, by others Danish.

MINERALS.

Mangerton mountain abounds in variety of minerals; whetstones; argillaceous iron ore; red and brown iron stones; spicular iron ore, adhering to quartz; and numerous siliceous stones, but no calcareous specimens.

Transparent crystals, generally known under the name of Kerry stones, are found in various parts. Many of these resemble the diamond in its property of cutting glass, but soon lose their hardness. The mineralogist must principally direct his search for them amongst the rocks and cliffs on the sea coast. Coloured crystals are found in the vicinity of the lakes: these often resemble emeralds, topazes, and sapphires. Some real amethysts have also been discovered.

Near Castle Island is found the once famous _Lapis hibernicus_, or Irish slate, formerly of some officinal reputation, abounding in common green copperas, or martial vitriol; also at Tralee.

At Dune, near Tralee, are pyrites, with sulphur, and iron ore.

Extensive iron works formerly existed at Glencarne, especially near Blackstairs.

A salino-nitrous spring at Magherybeg rises out of the sand; antiscorbutic.

BOTANY.

_Andromeda polifolia_, Marsh Cistus or Wild Rosemary: in bogs in Iveragh and Dunkerron baronies, and near Isaac-town.

_Arbutus Unedo_, Strawberry-tree:--on rocks and mountains about Lough Lane.

_Artemisia campestris_, Field Southern-wood:--in a field near Castle Island.

_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden-hair:--on the mountains.

_Asplenium Ceterach_, Spleenwort or Milkwort:--on rocks.

_Asplenium Ruta muraria_, White Maiden-hair, Wall Rue or Tentwort:--in a rocky cavern near Blackstones.

_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English Black Maiden-hair:--on the rocks in various parts.

_Astragalus arenarius_, Purple Mountain Milkwort; on the mountains about the Lake of Killarney.

_Atriplex portulacoides_, Sea Purslane:--near the river Mang near Callinafersy.

_Atriplex serrata_, Indented Sea Orache:--on the banks of the river Galey, plentifully.

_Cardamine bellidifolia_, Daisy-leaved Ladies' Smock:--in the islands of Lough Lane.

_Cheiranthus sinuatus_, Sea Stock:--near Beal Castle towards the Shannon mouth.

_Chenopodium maritimum_, Sea Blite or White Glasswort:--on the shore near Callinafersy, the bottom of Castlemain harbour.

_Cineraria alpina_, Mountain Ragwort:--on the side of Knockanore mountain, near Fell's Spa, in the barony of Iragticonnor.

_Cineraria palustris_, Marsh Flea-bane:--in ditches in the barony of Clanmaurice.

_Convallaria majalis_, Lily Convally, or May Lily:--in the island of Innisfallen.

_Cratægus Aria_, White Beam Tree:--in woods and hedges in a mountainous or chalky soil, plentifully.

_Cucubalus acaulis_, Moss Campion:--on the rocky mountains in Dukerron near Blackstones.

_Draba muralis_, Speedwell-leaved Whitlow Grass:--on mountains near the southern part of Lough Lane.

_Drosera rotundifolia_, Round-leaved Sundew:--in moist grounds near Lixnaw.

_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Elder:--on hills near passage into the upper lake at Killarney.

_Echium italicum_, Wall Viper's Bugloss:--in sandy ground in Ballyheigh Bay near Ferrit.

_Equisetum hyemale_, Rough Horsetail or Shave-grass:--in a bog through which the river Buck runs near Lixnaw.

_Eryngium maritimum_, Sea Holly or Eryngo:--on sandy shores.

_Euphorbia hiberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--on the mountains.

_Galeopsis villosa_, Hairy Dead Nettle:--in fields near Castle Island.

_Geranium maritimum_, Sea Crane's-bill:--on the strand of Tralee.

_Geranium moschatum_, Musk Crane's-bill or Muscovy:--on the abbey walls of Lislactin.

_Geum rivale_, Water Avens:--on the hills near the passage into the upper lake of Killarney.

_Herniaria glabra_, Smooth Rupture-wort:--on Lamb-head near the mouth of the river Kenmare.

_Hieracium paludosum_, Succory-leaved Hawkweed:--in Ballybog.

_Ilex Aquifolium (baccis luteis)_, Yellow-berried Holly:--on mountains near Lough Lane.

_Inula crithmoides_, Golden Samphire:--on rocks near Bolus-head in Iveragh, and elsewhere.

_Jungermannia epiphylla_, Broad-leaved Jungermannia:--in a wood near Beal Castle.

_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--on the mountains.

_Juniperus Sabina_, Savine:--in islands at Killarney.

_Lepidium latifolium_, Dittander or Pepperwort:--near the head of Kenmare river.

_Lichen islandicus_, Eryngo-leaved Liverwort:--on the mountains of Iveragh near Blackstones.

_Lichen tartareus_, Welch Liverwort, Cork or Archill:--on rocks on the sea coast.

_Lycopodium alpinum_, Mountain Club Moss:--on the mountains of Toomesh and others near the Lake of Killarney.

_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club Moss:--on the southern districts on the mountains.

_Lycopodium Selago_, Upright Fir Moss:--on Mangerton and most other mountains near the Lake of Killarney.

_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adder's Tongue:--in moist meadows.

_Osmunda crispa_, Stone Fern:--on rocks among mountains in the southern baronies.

_Osmunda regalis_, Osmund royal or Flowering Fern:--in bogs of Irachticonnor; in a wood near Lixnaw and elsewhere.

_Paris quadrifolia_, Herb Paris, True-love, or One-berry:--in the wood near Ross Castle; near the Lake.

_Peucedanum officinale_, Hog's Fennel, Sulphurwort:--on the shores of Ballyheigh bay.

_Pinus Abies_, Common Fir or Pitch Tree:--in the mountains.

_Pinus picea_, Yew-leaved Fir:--in the mountains.

_Pisum maritimum_, Sea Pease:--on Inch Island in Castlemain bay.

_Polemonium cæruleum_, Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder:--near Castle Island, in meadows.

_Polygonum Bistorta_, Greater Bistort or Snakeweed:--in a park near Tralee.

_Polypodium fragile_, Brittle Polypody:--on Mangerton mountains.

_Polypodium fragile γ_, a variety of the last; on the south side of the rocks called the Reeks.

_Polypodium rhœticum_, Stone Polypody:--on several mountains round the Lake of Killarney, near the new road to Glanerough.

_Pulmonaria maritima_, Sea Bugloss:--on the beach near Beal Castle.

_Rubia peregrina_, Wild Madder:--in the Island of Innisfallen.

_Rubus idæus_, Raspberry Bush or Framboise:--near Lough Lane, plentifully.

_Salsola Kali_, Prickly Glasswort:--on the sea shore at the bottom of Ballyheigh Bay.

_Santolina maritima_, Sea Cudweed:--on the shores of Ballyheigh strand.

_Saxifraga oppositifolia_, Mountain Heath-like Sengreen; among the rocks near Blackstones.

_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on Mangerton mountain.

_Scrophularia Scorodonia_, Balm-leaved Figwort:--on the sea coast near the Magherie Islands in Tralee bay.

_Smyrnium Olusatrum_, Alexanders:--on a small bushy hillock near Crumlin Ch., about the shore near Dunkerton, the head of the river Kenmare, and elsewhere.

_Sorbus domestica_, True Service or Sorb; on several rocks about Killarney Lake.

_Solidago cambrica_, Welch Golden Rod:--near the Devil's Punch-bowl, on the west side of Mangerton mountain.

_Tragopogon porrifolius_, Purple Goat's-beard:--on the banks of the river Brick near Lixnaw.

KILDARE

Is an inland and small-sized county, soon traversed, and, with the exception of numerous Danish mounts, containing very little to interest the general tourist. It is, in short, little more than an extent of bog; and the famous Curragh of Kildare, so celebrated in the annals of sporting, is literally nothing more than a boggy down of about 3000 acres. Mr. Wakefield observes that the habitations of the poor are so extremely wretched that they add the appearance of misery and desolation to the general dulness exhibited by the face of the country. Unfortunately there is scarcely any thing to contrast with this; for the seats of the gentry, though much admired, are far from being numerous. Bounded by Meath on the N.; Dublin and Wicklow, E., Carlow S.; and W. by King's and Queen's Counties.

ATHY, 10 m. S.W. of Kildare, celebrated as the scene of battles in early history.--See ruins of two Monasteries. At Ardee, 1 m., Danish Rath. At Carmen, 5 m. E., Rath on conical hill, with extensive prospect. See Kilberry Abbey, and Kildangon Castle, in ruins. At Maistean, field of battle where bones are still dug up, of great antiquity. Rheban, 2 m. N., has a quadrangular entrenchment, the remains of an ancient city.

BALLITORE, a beautiful village, 12 m. S.E. of Kildare, situated in a valley on a winding stream. It is a colony of Quakers, with houses remarkable for neatness, cleanliness, and elegant simplicity, with highly cultivated gardens. See Belan House, the seat of the Earl of Aldborough, erected on, or near to the ruins of an old Castle which was demolished by Cromwell; after which another mansion was raised, since pulled down and rebuilt. It stands low, near the junction of two streams, which at the distance of 4 m. fall into the Barrow. Plainness and convenience seem to have been attended to on its erection, more than elegance, though handsome and substantial; the front and rear composed with breaks and ornamented with corner stone work; and the whole forming a good object at the end of a magnificent avenue. The visitor will be shown a bed which stood in the old mansion, in which it is said, by tradition, that both King William and King James slept in the course of the year 1690. The demesne is very extensive, and has the singularity of being in five counties, Kildare, Wicklow, Carlow, Queen's, and Dublin; and seven others may be seen from an eminence in the grounds, King's, Meath, Westmeath, Kilkenny, Wexford, Waterford, and Tipperary. Timolin, 3 m. S., see ruins of Castle, and Moone Abbey.

CASTLE CARBERRY, 12 m. N. of Kildare, is a station for the N.W. part of the county. See ruins of ancient Castle, (1180) with extensive prospect; also Newberry, a handsome seat of Lord Harberton.

CASTLE DERMOT, 18 m. S.E. of Kildare.--See ruins of Franciscan Friary, and Ch., close to which a round tower in good preservation, and beautifully enveloped in ivy; also remains of Castle, two stone Crosses, and three Pillars of great antiquity. A place of early celebrity, but now in decay. Kilkea Castle, 5 m. N.W., the property of the Duke of Leinster, presents the tourist with the agreeable picture of an ancient Castle fitted up for modern residence. Grose gives a very interesting engraving of it; and he describes it as situated on a rising ground and commanding an extensive prospect: near it is a Ch., and the river Grisso runs at a small distance. Having been partly rebuilt in the 15th century, it has a bawn or inclosure entered by an arched gateway, defended by a round tower which projects from the castle itself. In the front of the castle is the principal entrance, with an outer staircase. The whole forms a very interesting object.

CLAIN, 10 m. N.E. of Kildare, stands pleasantly on the Liffey; Ch. with lofty steeple; ruins of Abbey; ancient Castle, and extensive Rath; Aqueduct Bridge near it.

KILCOCK, 18 m. N.E. of Kildare, and on the verge of the county, is a populous but straggling village. Suffered dreadfully from the rebels in 1798. See Cloncurry, 4 m., with ruins of ancient Ch.; also Donadea Castle.

KILCULLEN, OLD and NEW, 7 m. S.E. of Kildare, with round tower, and remains of monastic buildings; bridge over the Liffey. At Castle Martin, curious Chapel and Mausoleum. Kilgowan, near it, has an ancient stone pillar on a hill. At New Abbey, see the ruins and monuments of the Eustace family. At Old Kilcullen examine the shaft of an antique Cross covered with rude sculptures, of which a good plate is given in Ledwich's Antiquities. The style is grotesque, and evidently Danish. Some of the figures are intended to represent priests engaged in religious offices; but the others are mere caricatures.

KILDARE is the county town, about 28 m. from the metropolis.--The Abbey is a very fine ruin, consisting of part of the tower and a considerable portion of the walls, containing six Gothic arches and as many buttresses, but entirely modernized. It is said that the ruinous state of the steeple is in consequence of the siege during the civil war, when its north side was knocked down by a Cromwellian battery. The south wing is a mass of ruins, but the antiquary may still notice two statues in alto relievo; one of which is the representation clad in armour of an ancient knight of the Fitzgerald family, surrounded by heraldic escutcheons; the other a bishop with his pastoral staff, and his mitre supported by monkeys. Close to the ruins is a Round Tower 132 feet in height, with a light battlement in pretty good preservation, being one of the best specimens in the island. The monastic annals of this town present the extraordinary instance of a _Sacred Fire_ having been preserved from the time of the Druids by Christian nuns of St. Bridget; a lady much celebrated for her virtues and her miracles. The place where this relic of heathen superstition was preserved, is still in existence, and now called the Fire-house. Of this fire many wonderful tales are related, especially that although it consumed great quantities of fuel, yet the ashes never increased. It was considered impious to blow the fire with the human breath, but only by a pair of bellows; yet people of plain sense might suppose that a holy miraculous flame would never require human assistance in any shape. It appears indeed that in the 13th century the Archbishop of Dublin performed a miracle in putting out this fire; but it was rekindled and continued in good preservation until the dissolution of the religious houses. The town stands pleasantly on the side of a hill; and the ancient Castle is partly habitable. The Curragh is a fine unequal down of short pasture, famous for its races; and contains 3000 acres; with remains of ancient Barrows or small Raths, which Sir R. C. Hoare supposes to be Druidical. The hill of Allen gives name to an extensive bog, and is celebrated for its cave where repose the remains of Oscar and other Ossianic chiefs, this being the hill of Temora in ancient times. Dunmurry presents great variety to the mineralogist. Kilmaoge has an ancient Ch. At Lackagh, 3 m. W., ancient cemetery with ruins of Ch. and Castle. Monasterevan, 5 m. S.W., has a modern built Ch. and Nursery for the Leinster Charter Schools: near it the venerable but beautifully repaired mansion of Moore Abbey, seat of the Marquis of Drogheda. At New Bridge, ruins of magnificent Abbey of Great Connell. Rathangan, on the banks of the canal, suffered greatly in the rebellion.

LEIXLIP, 8 m. from Dublin, near Lucan, a romantic scene of wood, rocks, and water.--Near it, at Castletown, is the finest house in Ireland, built by the late Mr. Conolly: a large handsome edifice situated on an extensive lawn surrounded by fine plantations, uniting with sombre woods and artificial scenery. From hence visit also Cartown, the picturesque seat of the Duke of Leinster; Summerhill; Dangan, &c. &c. See also the Salmon leap, with magnificent old Castle delightfully seated on a rising ground overhanging the Liffey, near which is the celebrated Aqueduct of the royal canal, being 85 feet above the river, equal to the famous Roman work at Pont de Gard in France. The village is picturesquely situated on the edge of the river, near a charming wild romantic dell, where high slopes covered with wood rise on each side above the water, having paths that lead to the Cascade. See at St. Woolstan's, 2 m. S.W., ruinous towers and gateways of ancient Priory (1208).

MAYNOOTH, 11 m. from Dublin, has lately become famous for its Roman Catholic College, formed to receive a great number of students. It has a large Inn and fine Market-house; also a Protestant Charter School, and near it are the ruins of an ancient Castle. Bishop's Court may be visited along with the beauties of Leixlip: it is a magnificent mansion and highly cultivated demesne of Lord Ponsonby. Celbridge, a modern built village, is highly worth notice, with fine stone bridge over the Liffey, and at the lower extremity an elegant Ch. lately erected. See extensive woollen manufactory; also at the S. end of the village, remains of a magnificent Abbey, now repaired, and converted into a habitation presenting all the external appearance of its former character, in all the gloomy grandeur of Gothic architecture. Castle Browne, not far distant, has recently been purchased for a society of Jesuits. Furnace is a beautiful seat, lately much improved, with ruins of ancient chapel in the lawn, in which is a window of painted glass of high antiquity and extreme beauty. At Oughterard, see ancient Ch. and Round Tower on summit of a hill. Prosperous is another modern creation, being founded by Colonel Brook in 1780, for a Cotton Manufactory: 1/2 m. distant from which, at a place called the Cott, is a strong sulphureous spa, richly impregnated also as a chalybeate, useful in scrophulous and cutaneous diseases.

NAAS, 10 m. N.E. of Kildare, was in ancient times the residence of the Kings of Leinster, of which it still retains evident marks in the existence of Moats or Raths of considerable elevation at its N. and S. extremities. See Court House; Parsonage House, built upon the site of an ancient Castle; and extensive Barracks. No remains of its original fortifications now exist; but the tourist will find a good inn, with a supply of post horses. Jigginstown, 1/2 m. distant, has been repeatedly noticed for the ruins of an elegant mansion begun by Lord Strafford in the unhappy reign of Charles I. It stands close to the road, and is vaulted underneath. At Johnstown is the ancient mansion and extensive demesne of Lord Mayo.

MINERALS.

In the Red Hills on the southern limits of the bog of Allen, the mineralogical tourist may derive great satisfaction from an examination of the copper mines which were opened there about 30 years ago. Dunmurry forms a kind of headland to the north of the chain of hills, and the loose stones on its surface frequently appear as if calcined in the fire, of a red purple colour, and sometimes tinctured with sulphur, generally considered as certain indications of the existence of copper. Here shafts have been sunk to the depth of 15 fathom in the solid rock, which is calcareous in many places; and here is also found a white argillaceous alkaline earth; together with calcareous spar, and a fossil said to be a poor silver ore. On the conical hill of Allen, about a mile distant, the vestiges of partial vitrification are even more apparent, and many of the specimens are richly impregnated with blue and green vitriol. Near Williamstown the mineralogist may visit the deserted works of a silver mine, and amuse himself with scientific research.

BOTANY.

_Narthecium ossifragum_, Lancashire or Bastard Asphodel:--in turfy bogs.

_Pinguicula vulgaris_, Butterwort, or Yorkshire Sanicle:--in pastures near Barberstown.

_Samolus Valerandi_, Round-leaved Water Pimpernel:--in marshes and moist meadows, at Monasterevan.

KILKENNY

Is an inland and not very extensive county; but is highly worth visiting: for though much of it consists of furze-clad mountains, yet these are finely contrasted by the diversified scenery on the banks of the Suir and Barrow, its eastern and western limits, and of the Nore which divides it nearly in two. In several parts of the county the mineralogist will find petrifactions or incrustations similar to those of Derbyshire; especially on the banks of a stream which flows through the glen of Ballyragget; and the Derbyshire farmers may here learn a lesson from the Irish agriculturists, who have discovered that these incrustations or depositions, which form with great rapidity, make an excellent manure. In many parts also are found calcareous petrifactions of pectunculites, echinites, cochlites, and some Cornua ammonis; and in several places, particularly in the barony of Galmoy, (as stated by Mr. Wakefield,) are tubiporites in such size and plenty as to be often seen in the fields and on dry stone walls. The antiquities are very numerous; Raths, Druidical Monuments, Castles, Abbeys, &c. are scattered in all parts, but very ruinous. The rivers are on a large scale, and the scenery pleasing. Bounded on the N.W. by Queen's County; N. by Carlow; E. by Wexford; S.W. by Tipperary.

CALLEN, 7 m. S.W. of Kilkenny, has ruins of three Castles, and old Gothic Ch., all destroyed by Cromwell. 1 m. see Eve Castle in ruins; also very large Rath, 40 feet high, 46 yards by 24.

CASTLE COMER, 8 m. N. of Kilkenny; see the celebrated Kilkenny coal-pits; beautiful mansion of Lady Ormond, the scene of several battles during the rebellion. Town partly burnt down, but since rebuilt.

CASTLE DURROW, 12 m. N.W. of Kilkenny, a town pleasantly situated on the banks of the Erkin, a small river, with a good inn. Near it the large old-fashioned mansion of Lord Ashbrooke. Roads good. Country round well cultivated, with some wood. Several vestiges of Danish Mounts. Visit Ballyspellan, 6 m. _S.W._, a celebrated Spa, chalybeate, with much to amuse the mineralogist; also Druidical remains. Fertagh has curious old Ch., and Round Tower 96 feet high. At Freshford see Irish inscription over Ch. door. Galmoy has numerous Danish Raths in its vicinity.