Part 10

_Orchis pyramidalis_, Purple Lake-flowering Orchis:--on dry sea banks between Newtown and Dunleary.

_Ornithogalum luteum_, Yellow Star of Bethlehem:--in a low meadow between Finglass Bridge and Drumcondra.

_Osmunda Lunaria_, Moonwort:--on the hills, and in the pastures of Palmerstown.

_Polemonium cæruleum_, Great Valerian:--at Rathfarnam.

_Rosa spinosissima_, Pimpernel or Burnet Rose:--on the edge of the brow at Black Rock, and near Raheny Mills.

_Salsola fruticosa_, Shrub Stonecrop or Glasswort:--in Clontarf Island.

_Salsola Kali_, Prickly Glasswort:--near the Black Rock.

_Samolus Valerandi_, Round-leaved Water Pimpernel:--near Dalkey.

_Scilla verna_, Vernal Star Hyacinth:--in meadows and pastures, and near Temple-oge.

_Statice Armeria_, Thrift or Sea July Flower:--between the Black Rock and Dunleary.

_Viola grandiflora_, Yellow Violet or Pansies:--on the Hill of Howth.

EASTMEATH.

This county, sometimes only called Meath by preeminence, is an inland district, except in one spot where it borders for a few miles on the Irish Channel, between the shires of Louth and Dublin. It is inhabited by a numerous and opulent gentry, with the mansions and highly cultivated demesnes of many noblemen; and also contains numerous scenes to please the antiquary, in its mouldering piles of ruined Castles and Abbeys, frowning over the landscape in gloomy grandeur. Bounded by Louth on the N., Monaghan and Cavan, W., Kildare, S., Dublin and the Channel, E.

ATHBOY, 8 m. W. of Trim, is a tolerable town with a good inn, where the tourist may fix his head-quarters whilst visiting the various objects in the vicinity, particularly a farm of near 6000 Irish acres, kept in hand by Sir Benjamin Chapman; also Ballinlough, the well wooded seat of Sir Hugh O'Reilly. From hence, a road completely shaded with trees leads to the seat of Mr. Tigh, at Mitchelstown, near which are the grounds of Mr. Wood at Rosmead: indeed the whole neighbourhood is well planted and populous.

DULEEK, about 15 m. E. from Trim; once a famous episcopal city, now a paltry country town, but exhibiting in its ruin traces of former celebrity; particularly in the remains of the Abbey with its majestic tower, the first stone Ch. in Ireland. Grenogue, 4 m. S., has ruins of an ancient Ch. Gormanstown, 6 m. E., ancient seat of Lord G. Invercolpa, at the mouth of the Boyne, has some Abbey ruins. Kilbrue is an elegant mansion, 5 m. S.; near it ruins of Macetown Castle. Platten, 2 m., handsome seat built on the ruins of one of the largest Castles on the island. Ratoath, 10 m. S., a poor village. See Ch. erected on ruins of an ancient Abbey; also a lofty and conspicuous mount, celebrated for meetings of Parliaments in feudal times. St. John's Well, in this vicinity, is described by Mr. Wakefield as a penitentiary station for pilgrims for five days in the latter end of June.

KELLS, 12 m. N.W. of Trim, being pleasantly seated on the Blackwater, forms a good station for the western part of the county. See the Market-house on the site of an ancient Castle; also curious stone Cross, much decayed, but decorated very richly with figures of men, beasts, flowers, &c. Here is a remarkable round tower, 90 feet in height and 16 in diameter, with walls 3 feet in thickness. It is close to the Church, at an opposite corner of which, and detached, stands a square tower with a spire, the remains of an ancient edifice now destroyed. At the back of the town there is another small round tower; also a small stone building arched with flags, called Columkill's Cell, supposed to be the first Christian oratory erected here. The Ch. is modern; and in the cemetery a curious sculptured cross. See the noble mansion of the Marquis of Headfort in its vicinity, and its extensive grounds.

NAVAN, 7 m. N.E. of Trim, stands very pleasantly on the Boyne, and has a considerable trade. Its vicinity has much picturesque scenery for the pedestrian tourist. See the Tholsel; and the remains of several ancient tombs in the Abbey cemetery, adorned with sculpture. The beautiful episcopal palace of Ardbraccan, 2 m. W., displaying simplicity of design with accuracy of execution, is built of a remarkable limestone with a very fine grain, found in the immediate vicinity. The quarry is worth visiting. The limestone is capable of being worked into any form for building; is susceptible of a fine polish; and though white when it comes from the chisel, acquires a sober grayish tint after exposure to the air. Its strata are horizontal and of various degrees of thickness, from four inches to two feet; and columns have been raised and worked of 9 or 10 feet in length, and from 15 to 18 inches in diameter. A short distance from Navan, close to the village of Donoghmore, and standing on an eminence near the road leading to Slieve, is a round tower adorned with sculptures of the Crucifixion over the doorway. It is not in very good preservation; and the ancient Ch. attached to it is totally in ruins. Dunmore Castle is a building of very early date, but almost new built as a castellated house at the close of the 17th century, and now presenting a curious specimen of those turbulent times in its lofty towers and heavy walls, diversified only by a few windows close to the battlements. In the vicinity of Dunshaghlen see Dunsany and Killeen Castles, mansions of Lords Dunsany and Fingal. Near the latter examine the Ch. and sepulchral antiquities. The tourist who is partial to extensive prospects, may visit the Hill of Screen, on whose summit is a Ch., presenting from the battlements of the ruined belfry a most delightful view over a richly cultivated country. The edifice itself is in a state of dilapidation, except part of a chapel fitted up for divine service; but the antiquary may amuse himself with examining an ecclesiastical figure in relief over the southern entrance; also some crosses and curious old tombstones scattered over the surrounding cemetery. At New Grange is a very curious specimen of early Celtic antiquity, consisting of a most extensive barrow composed of stones and earth, formed with infinite labour and exhibiting considerable artificial dexterity. In this there is a cave which well deserves the notice of the antiquary: from the horizontal floor of this cave to the summit of the mount, is about 70 feet; the circumference at top is 300; and the base covers two acres of ground; the whole founded on an amazing collection of stones, and covered with gravel and earth. Slane, about 6 m. N.E., on the N. side of the Boyne, presents several curious ruins to the lover of antiquity. Some remains of an Abbey or College; lofty tower with Gothic windows. Here is also a Hermitage, said to be that of St. Ere, consecrated by St. Patrick in 512. Near this, on the banks of the Boyne, see the magnificent seats of Earl Conyngham (Slane Castle), and Mr. Lambert (Beaupark), whose grounds have the appearance of one domain, being separated only by the river running between romantic rocks, the summits and sides of which are partly adorned with wood; and the union of this scenery, combined with the dressed lawns of these two seats, renders the whole prospect highly interesting. Tarah has long been celebrated in Irish history as the place of coronation of the Irish monarchs. Here are some remnants of Danish fortifications, and the ruins of a Ch., sombre and picturesque. See ruins at Trevet.

TRIM, 22 m. N.W. of Dublin, is the assize town.--See picturesque ruins of an ancient Castle, celebrated through all the periods of Irish history; once the property of Mortimer Earl of March: situation romantic; many ruins of Monasteries. The ruins of Bective Abbey stand on a high bank of the Boyne, about 3 m. E. of Trim. Here the tourist may contemplate the domestic range of buildings connected with the Ch.; and, as the walls and division of the apartments are still pretty entire, may form a very good idea of monastic manners. The S. side a range of 12 arches, supported by clustered pillars, opens into a gallery which also runs along the W. From this gallery is an opening into a range of cells, gloomy and inconvenient, and seemingly fitter for the dead than the living. The whole place is indeed sombre in the extreme, with its Gothic doors and windows in several places, and projecting towers and turrets. The outline is picturesque, and deserves a visit. Clonard has some curious monuments in its Abbey ruins. At Newton are the remains of the Ch., belonging to a monastery founded in the 13th century; though much shattered, yet they have once been august, and are now sweetly enveloped in ivy. Tradition attributes (falsely) an ancient tomb to a daughter of King John. On the road from Trim to Mitchelstown see the ruins of a square fortress with circular turrets at the angles, called Scurlack's Town Castle, seated on the borders of the river Boyne, which is here a silent stream full of weeds and rushes.

MINERALS.

Limestone:--quarries at Ardbraccean, resembling marble.

Potter's clay:--has been discovered near Dunshaghlin; is deemed superior to that of Staffordshire.

Vitrescent stone:--found in quarries near Slane.

BOTANY.

_Drosera anglica_, Great Sundew:--on a bog near Isaac-tower.

_Nymphæa alba_, White Water Lily:--in the Boyne and other rivers.

FERMANAGH.

This county will always be an object of interest to the tourist, on account of Lough Erne, besides several smaller pieces of water, on all of which are situated some of the finest mansions and demesnes in the island. Its general surface is mountainous, interspersed with extensive boggy tracts, which rendered it, in early times, almost impregnable, when possessed by the sept of M'Guires. Bounded, S. and W. by Leitrim; N. by Donnegal and Tyrone; E. by Monaghan and Cavan.

BELLCOO, 9 m. S.W. of Enniskillen, and on the verge of the county, though a small is yet a neat village, and may form a station for the tourist, being seated on a considerable stream that runs into Lough Mac Nean, and thence to Lough Melve. The well called Davugh Phedric is noted as a cold bath, and nearly equal to Holywell in force. See ruins of Ch. 1 m. From hence also the tourist may visit Florence Court.

BELLEEK, 18 m. W. of Enniskillen, is a pretty village, with a very fine waterfall: ascend a hill with a battery on its top, from whence is seen a woody eminence with an insulated rock covered with shrubs, along which the stream passes with great rapidity, falling about twenty feet, and forming a most enchanting prospect. See it also from the bridge. It stands at the outlet of the lake, close to the verge of Donnegal. See Castle Caldwell on the northern shore, seated amidst promontories of thick wood that shoot into Lough Erne, with every variety of wood and lawn and water that can delight the eye. Near it is Lewrel, a demesne of singular beauty.

ENNISKILLEN, 80 m. N.W. of Dublin, is nearly in the centre of the county, and seated at the junction of the two divisions of Lough Erne, so as to form a convenient station for the whole county. It was celebrated in the wars of the Revolution by its heroic defence against James's army; and part of the military works yet remain near the bridge. See handsome barracks; superb school-house; and the Castle. Visit Bellisle, the romantic residence of the late Lord Ross; Castle Coole, 1 m. dist. Lord Belmore, an elegant mansion of Portland stone; Daughtons, 4 m. N.W., where are some curious caves; Florence Court, 7 m. S.E., on the southern shore, a very superb modern edifice, seated at the foot of lofty mountains, in the midst of a highly cultivated demesne, with most romantic prospects.

LISNARICK, about 10 m. N.W. of Enniskillen, is a small hamlet, but may suffice as a station for the northern bank of the lower lake. Close to it is Castle Archdall, a magnificent mansion; and 2-1/2 m. further, see Cash, an inconsiderable village, but amidst fine scenery, with ruins of a Castle.

LISNESKEA, 12 m. E. of Enniskillen, is a decayed village, but may serve as a temporary station for the Upper Lake; and as there are many genteel residences in its immediate vicinity, the tourist, if so inclined, may trust to Irish hospitality. See ruins of old Castle at Calla Hill, across the lake; ruins of an old Ch. at Donough, 2 m. S.E.; Gola, 5 m. W., with some remains of a Dominican monastery; Newton Butler with a handsome Ch.; and Wattle Bridge, where are some fragments of a Druidical temple on the banks of the river; also St. Mary's Ch., and two small lakes.

LOUGH ERNE is 20 m. in length, and covers nearly 48,000 acres. It has been little noticed by tourists; yet its beauties deserve some leading directions. Those who have time to spare, or the artist who wishes to devote his time to study, may employ a few days very agreeably in perambulating its limits, so as to catch each point of view under the various effects of morning and evening tint, or even noon-tide radiance; but where a day only can be allowed for seeing it, that day will be most profitably spent on the island of Bellisle, where the Earl of Ross has a most delightful residence. Here we may introduce an observation, regard to which will often be highly useful to the picturesque tourist.--It is, that the same view presents a very different appearance when seen at the commencement and at the close of day. In no part of the world is this, perhaps, more noticeable, than in Ireland, owing to its moisture, raised into vapour by a meridian sun, condensed by cold winds rushing in through extended valleys, through the day, settling in the dells or fringeing the mountain tops in the still repose of evening, or rising like a curtain at the influence of the morning beam. In pursuance then of this hint, the hurried tourist, especially if pedestrian, should proceed to Bellisle at the earliest dawn, and he will find himself sufficiently occupied until the nightfall in traversing its limits round an extent of 200 acres consisting of all the variety of hill and dale, with partial sprinklings of lawn, interspersed with ancient woods of considerable extent, in some spots exhibiting all the deep majesty of shade, in others opening into more cheerful clumps, or scattered breaks of foliage. The varied surface exhibits the whole contents of this woody scenery to great advantage, presenting, even in what may be called the home views, sufficient amusement for a day; but much increased by its junction with the surrounding scenery at every break in the hills, and at every verdant point jutting into the lake, particularly so in front of the mansion, where a reach of it passes under the eye of the spectator, reflecting the fine woods and rising banks that give beauty to the scene and shelter to the house itself. This part of the lake, being 3 m. in length, possesses all the charms of distance, and has in front another island clothed thick with wood encircling a bold eminence, appropriated to the purposes of a deer park, in the rear of which a lofty mountain gives almost a magic relief to the whole. This is finely contrasted, on a short turn to the right, by some clumps of rich foliage, and by several pretty islands starting boldly from the surface, broken into a thousand picturesque forms by the windings of the lake, and the whole body of water is lost in a narrow defile where hill on hill closes the view. Here too is every facility for viewing the lake in a double route; as the walks most commodiously surround the island at its outermost limits, besides leading to the best points of view in the interior; and indeed it will be proper not to omit the prospect from a handsome temple which commands the whole of this enchanting scenery. The grotto ought also to be visited, and attention paid to the effect on coming out of it, when the contrast presents a beautiful effect, in two of these islands appearing to join, the streight between them having the semblance of a deep bay, whose extremity is lost amidst the sombre foliage in the back-ground. Behind these is the hill of the deer park, the lofty mountains behind which for a moment draw attention from the nearer beauties; but these latter must not be neglected, as their examination in all the neatness of artificial culture contrasts finely with the bleak and wild surrounding imagery of nature. The widest part of the loch is in the vicinity of Castle Archdall, where it resembles the sea, and presents a charming panoramic prospect if viewed from the little island of Ennismachcent, no less than 27 isles and islets surrounding the spectator. The prospect to the N. is the finest, when Castle Archdall is seen in all its glory of wood and water reaching on the left to a noble bay of considerable extent, bounded by lofty mountains softening into distance, and shrouding in their bosom a much venerated Roman Catholic cemetery, with a large stone cross standing on a pedestal at its entrance.

In Lough Erne, the most celebrated island for holy purposes is _Devenish_, in which there are a round tower and considerable ecclesiastical ruins, some as early as the 12th century. These buildings are of the Augustinian order of monks; and the most ancient part is called St. Molaise's House, a vaulted building of hewn stone; coeval with which, in Mr. Ledwich's opinion, is the round tower; and both, as he supposes, of Danish origin.

MINERALS.

The mineralogist will find little here to interest him; but the geologist may discover much food for research; especially in the bogs that lie N. of Enniskillen, where sea shells are often found mixed in strata of white clay, 15 feet below the surface. This clay is calcareous; and the whole, in process of time, may become a bed of marble.

BOTANY.

_Bryum flexuosum_, Soft Bryum:--on rocks.

_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places and rivers, in Fermanagh.

_Serapias latifolia_:--a variety of broad-leaved Bastard Hellebore; in woods and hedges.

_Vaccinium Myrtillus_, Black Whorts, Whortle-berries, or Bilberries:--on heaths and in woods.

GALWAY.

This county is maritime, and of great extent, being the second in the island. It contains several lakes; but as the scenery round these is not very romantic, they are but little known to the tourist; and the aspect is not improved by the dry stone walls or hedges; except in the western district, where the beautiful shores of Lough Corrib will repay the trouble of a visit, through an extensive tract of irreclaimable bog and mountain. On the sea coast it is picturesquely broken by numerous arms of the sea; and its rivers deserve the notice of the inquisitive tourist. Dr. Beaufort observes, that several of these rivers are subterraneous in part of their course: near the village of Shrull, on the borders of Mayo, the Black river runs under ground for about 3 miles; but the most remarkable fact is that of the Moyne and the Clare, which unite their streams under ground, alternately appearing and retiring from view at the Turlachmore, which in winter forms a lake and in summer a beautiful and sound sheepwalk, upwards of 6 m. in length and 2 in breadth. Bounded W. by the Atlantic; N. by Mayo; N.E. by Roscommon; E. by King's County, Tipperary, and the Shannon; S. by Clare, and Galway bay.

AGHRIM, 24 m. E. of Galway, is a small village; but noticeable as the scene of battle between Ginkle and St. Ruth in the war of the Revolution, 12th July, 1691, when the latter, with his French and Irish army, was completely defeated. The scene of action was on Kilcomodon Hill. See the beautiful demesne of Ballydonnellan, also Ballydugan; ruins of old Castles; and the magnificent demesne of Wood Lawn. But this place and its surrounding scenery may be visited from Loughrea.

ATHENRY, 10 m. N.E. of Galway, now in decay; once a strong English fortification; its walls built in 1211. See Dominican monastery, noble even in its ruins. The tower and several of the gable windows are very fine; but its appearance is much altered by a part having been fitted up for the reception of the garrison, the cloisters forming the modern barrack-yard. Ancient Castle of the Lords Birmingham, in ruins; with lofty tower and ivy-mantled walls, affording a good idea of the feudal manners on the borders of the Pale. At Knockmoy, 7 m. N., see ruins of a monastery, with an ancient tomb of the O'Connors adorned with sepulchral mementos in fresco painting.

BALLINASLOE, 30 m. E. of Galway, is on the very verge of the county, and interesting to the statistical tourist from its autumnal fair for cattle, under the immediate patronage of the Farming Society. (_See further Mr. Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 229.)

CLONFERT, 30 m. E. of Galway, is an ancient bishopric.--Visit the beautiful ruins of the Cathedral, especially the W. front (1270). This was the scene of frequent battles during the irruptions of the Danes. Hall speaks highly of this place; observing, that the planting and improvement about the Bishop's Palace render Clonfert a little paradise. Visit Shannon Bridge and the round tower, at a place called the Seven Churches.

GALWAY, the county town, is 102 m. W. of Dublin, formerly fortified and celebrated in the wars of the Revolution; but now dismantled, and every trace disappearing. The architecture of the old town gloomy and massive; of the suburbs, elegant and airy. See 3 Nunneries, 3 Friaries, and 3 Barracks; Court-houses; Infirmary; magnificent Gothic Ch.; massy Gaol; and coarse woollen manufacture. The bay is very fine, sheltered at its entrance by the isles of Arran; but the country around is described by Mr. Curwen as having the most singular appearance he ever beheld, resembling the seat of a volcanic eruption from the immense blocks of limestone scattered over a space of great extent, with scarce a symptom of vegetation. See ruined tower of Ballensnave Castle; Caher Morres, a small hamlet, 11 m. N., but with good inn, as a station for the northern shores of Lough Corrib; Clare Galway, ancient Abbey, with lofty tower and fine Gothic east window; also splendid ruins of a strongly built castle; Dun Aengus in the greater isle of Arran, is a circle of large stones on a lofty cliff, a remnant of ancient fortification: Rosserally has extensive ruins of a monastery (1498). Turlaghmore, already alluded to, may from hence be visited.

LOUGH CORRIB possesses some romantic scenery; and is about 20 m. long, and at the broadest part 11; being contracted in the middle so as to appear like two lakes. The collector may here pick up some very good specimens of pearls from a muscle peculiar to the lake. The scenery on its western shores is a chain of wild and stupendous mountains, with some few fertile valleys. It contains many pretty islands; and here is caught the gillaroo trout, with a gizzard like a fowl, esteemed a great delicacy. Headfort, on its northern shore, is a well-built village, with venerable Ch. and barrack; near it an ancient mansion of the St. George family.

LOUGH DERG is a wide reach of the Shannon, which may be visited from Portumna. In it is a beautiful island, on which is a round tower 70 feet high, and the remains of 7 Churches.