Part 1

THE _Scientific TOURIST_ THROUGH IRELAND,

In which the Traveller is directed to the principal objects _OF_ Antiquity, Art, Science & The Picturesque,

By _An Irish Gentleman_,

Aided with the communications of Friends.

LONDON, PRINTED FOR JOHN BOOTH, DUKE-STREET, PORTLAND PLACE, 1818.

THE SCIENTIFIC TOURIST THROUGH Ireland:

BY WHICH THE TRAVELLER IS DIRECTED TO THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF ANTIQUITY, ART, SCIENCE, AND THE PICTURESQUE;

Arranged by Counties.

TO WHICH IS ADDED AN INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF THE ANTIQUITIES OF IRELAND, &c.

BY AN IRISH GENTLEMAN,

AIDED BY THE COMMUNICATIONS OF SEVERAL FRIENDS.

_Being a Sequel to "The Scientific Tourist through England, Wales, and Scotland," by T. Walford, Esq._

London:

PRINTED FOR J. BOOTH, DUKE-STREET, PORTLAND PLACE.

1818.

_This day is published in Two Volumes, Price_ 12_s._,

_Maps coloured_ 14_s._

(Uniformly printed with this Work)

THE SCIENTIFIC TOURIST THROUGH England, Wales, and Scotland:

BY T. WALFORD, ESQ. F.A.S. F.L.S.

CONTENTS.

_Page_

Introduction 1

Antiquities 8

Druidical Monuments 9

Cromlechs _ib._

Cairns 10

Ogham Inscriptions _ib._

Ancient Temples _ib._

Caves 11

Round Towers _ib._

Raths 14

Religious Antiquities 16

Churches, Cells, Hermitages, and Crosses _ib._

Castles 18

Mineralogy 19

Moss Earth 20

Basaltes 21

Granite _ib._

Temperature 22

Travelling 23

Topographical Division into Provinces, Baronies, Parishes, and Acres 25

Ecclesiastical Division; Dioceses, Parishes, and Churches 27

Legal Division 28

Comparative Height of Mountains 30

List of Round Towers, with their Measurements 31

Glossary 34

Value of English and Irish Currency 35

Description of Frontispiece and Direction for Plates 36

COUNTIES, viz.

Antrim.

Armagh.

Carlow.

Cavan.

Clare.

Cork.

Donnegal.

Down.

Dublin.

Eastmeath.

Fermanagh.

Galway.

Kerry.

Kildare.

Kilkenny.

King's County.

Leitrim.

Limerick.

Londonderry.

Longford.

Louth.

Mayo.

Meath; _see_ Eastmeath.

Monaghan.

Queen's County.

Roscommon.

Sligo.

Tipperary.

Tyrone.

Waterford.

Westmeath.

Wexford.

Wicklow.

Iters by various Persons. Routes of Mail Coaches. Index.

THIS HUMBLE ATTEMPT TO FACILITATE AND FAMILIARIZE

A JUST KNOWLEDGE OF THE VALUE AND BEAUTIES OF

THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND

HAVING BEEN MOST RESPECTFULLY PRESENTED,

IS NOW ON ITS PUBLICATION

WITH PERMISSION

INSCRIBED AND DEDICATED,

WITH

EVERY POSSIBLE SENSE OF THE OBLIGATION AND CONDESCENSION,

TO HIS IMPERIAL HIGHNESS

THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL OF RUSSIA:

WHOSE VISIT TO THIS INTERESTING ISLAND

AND IMPORTANT ARM OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE

HAS CONFERRED AN HONOUR

WHICH CAN NEVER BE ERASED FROM THE RECOLLECTION OF

THE IRISH NATION.

August 31, 1818.

IRELAND.

INTRODUCTION.

This interesting country becoming every day more and more the subject of inquiry and personal investigation, an HIBERNIAN TOURIST'S GUIDE consequently forms a necessary adjunct to our original plan. In prosecuting this design, our object is, by method and selection, to enable even the casual six-weeks visitant to explore readily the most important and curious specimens of nature and art, and that without subjecting him to those travelling inconveniences which it has been too much the fashion to complain of. Whilst travelling, at all times and in all countries, the tourist must learn to suffer petty vexations, privations, and delays; but a very amusing ramble may be executed in Ireland, without more of these than the usual share. The MEANS OF CONVEYANCE are now varied, extensive, rapid, and generally convenient; not only from the capital in all directions, but also by means of provincial coaches diverging from all the principal points; whilst good roads and improving inns give facility and comfort to those who travel with their own horses and carriages. In some places also, the INLAND NAVIGATION affords a change of scenery and of general amusement to the _independent_ traveller.

IRELAND, being only about 300 miles in length, and 200 in breadth, containing 30,370 sq. m.[1], does not require a long period to traverse its most important routes. Its CLIMATE is good, with a mean temperature from 48 to 52; its face mostly level, but with extensive ranges of mountainous tracts and rocky soil. It contains romantic LAKES, both fresh and salt, viz. _Neagh_, _Erne_, _Killarney_, _Swilly_, _Foyle_, _Corrib_, &c. &c.; also many majestic RIVERS, _Shannon_, _Liffy_, _Boyne_, _Blackwater_, _Suir_, _Barrow_, _Lagan_, &c. Its MOUNTAINOUS TRACTS are principally in Donnegal and Tyrone in the north, with part of Antrim; also the Mourne Mountains in Down; the mountains of Wicklow; in Kerry, and the s.w.; together with the extensive ranges to the west of the Shannon. The BOGS are extensive, occupying many of the mountains, indeed often undulating in hill and dale, particularly in Donnegal; whilst both they and the dry heaths are covered with wild myrtles, sedgy grass, rushes, _saggons_, or iris, orchis, wild rockets, &c. Of its FORESTS few remain, being now sunk under the turf-bogs or peat mosses; yet of minor BOTANY there is a great field for examination in the Ericæ, numerous alpine plants, and wild flowers on the heaths, bogs, and rocky fastnesses. Its MINERALOGY is very varied, from the gold mines of Wicklow, down to the silver mines of the same county, those of copper at Cronbane, with marble, coal, slate; whilst its MINERAL SPRINGS, vitriolic, alkaline, saline, sulphureous, &c. offer frequent opportunities of analysis to the man of science.

[1] Dr. Beaufort.

The importance of any plan which will tempt Englishmen of fortune, especially the members of the legislative body, to visit Ireland, cannot be more clearly expressed than in Mr. Wakefield's introduction to his work on that country, where he observes, that a knowledge of the natural situation, of the political institutions, and of the local advantages even of a foreign nation, form an object of considerable magnitude, and must to an inquiring and enlightened mind be a source of no small gratification; but to become acquainted with these relations, as they respect the great divisions of the empire of which we are ourselves subjects, is of much greater importance.

It is impossible to tread the green sod of _Erin_, without a considerable portion of antiquarian enthusiasm,--at least not to traverse her wilds, without a portion of that spirit, even though we may be tempted to deny that extreme antiquity of record drawn from the earliest periods, and claimed by the _Old Irish_ in the indulgence of their national vanity. But the true enthusiast requires not always absolute historical proof to justify his feelings; and it is well that he does not; for then many of his aërial pictures must fade from existence; and the sober truth certainly is, as the elaborate Leland has expressed himself, that it cannot be denied that no literary monuments, to confirm tradition, have yet been discovered in Ireland earlier than the introduction of Christianity into that country; and that the evidence of any transactions previous to that period, rests entirely on the credit of Christian writers, and their collections from old poets, or their transcripts of records deemed to have been made in times of paganism. It seems indeed, as he adds, unreasonable to expect that any other domestic evidence of Irish antiquity should subsist at this day; but from these the antiquary forms a regular history of a long succession of kings and of romantic events from the earlier ages of the world. Still do these details impart considerable interest to the scenes where they are supposed to have been acted; and from the poetical annals that furnish the catalogue of monarchs, we have a lively picture of manners, most certainly of great antiquity, however low we reduce the scale of chronology, and highly worthy of attention, even though we smile at the tales connected with them, with a most profuse intermixture of giants, necromancers, obscure allegories, and extravagant fables. In those annals, we have an animated picture of a brave people, driven from their native land in search of new settlements, establishing themselves by their valour in a fair and fertile island; the chieftains parcelling out lands to their attendants, and the whole collection of adventurers, from the moment of their peaceful establishment, devising means to give stability to their acquisitions. As a bond of unity to the whole, they elect a monarch; but preserve their own individual sovereignty in their domains, forming a complete feudal system, and filling the land with little courts where politeness and chivalry, attended by poetry and romance, went hand in hand. Such is the sketch which arises from Leland's masterly delineation; who adds, that in this state of things a robust frame of body, a vehemence of passion, an elevated imagination, were the characteristics of the people; whilst noble instances of valour, generous effusions of benevolence, ardent resentments, desperate and vindictive outrages, abound in their annals. From hence too it is that scarcely a romantic dell or simple green knoll exists without its traditionary tale; sometimes stained with blood, but as often enlivened by love--for to verse and music they were particularly addicted. Hence arose that peculiar turn of character by which those who are possessed of any superior degree of knowledge, they who operate on their fancies and passions by the liveliest strains of poetry, have long been held in extraordinary veneration; and hence, even at the present day, the ministers of their religion are accounted more than human. The effects of those early events may indeed still be traced by the modern tourist; and even the historian of cotemporary transactions is obliged to coincide with the elegant Littleton when he observes, that the songs of the bard had usually more power to incite and inflame, than the music of the harp to soften or mitigate the ferocity of the chief; so that even this recreation, which seems to indicate something gentle and approaching to politeness in the temper of the Irish, contributed to keep up that turbulent spirit, averse to order and peace, which no prince or legislator that their country ever produced, had sufficient skill to control. But still, from the remnants of these ancient customs will the modern tourist derive considerable advantages, and from none more than their proverbial hospitality, if he himself has sense enough to keep it within bounds of propriety. Of this hospitality much arises from the natural temper of the people; much from the natural curiosity connected with the arrival of a stranger in a district where intercourse is unfrequent; and some portion perhaps derivable from ancient custom; for, as Leland observes, hospitality was not only a principal virtue amongst these rude people, but was even enjoined by law; and as neither lords nor tenants were bound to each other, as the whole tribe might migrate to some more favourable district, the ancient _Brehon_ laws expressly stipulate that no rath shall break up suddenly, lest the traveller should be disappointed of his expected reception. But neither the duties to be received by the lord, nor the entertainment he was to expect from his inferiors, were determined by his arbitrary will and pleasure. They were proportioned to the benefits received from him--nay, even the lowest of the people claimed reception and refreshment by an almost perfect right; and so ineffectual is the flux of many centuries to efface the ancient manners of a people, that at this day the wandering beggar enters the house of a farmer or gentleman with as much ease and freedom as an inmate. From this strict adherence to old customs, it arose that even on the introduction of Christianity, many of the Pagan and Druidical ceremonies of religion, interwoven with secular ordinances, were preserved throughout the island. Indeed, as the author already quoted very justly affirms, the first Christian missionaries seem to have industriously avoided all unnecessary violence to the ancient manners of their converts: favouring and protecting their poets; avoiding all persecution towards the remains of the Druidical order; and even whilst thundering the divine vengeance against the worshippers of the sun, moon, stars, and wind, yet exercising indulgence towards many remains of Pagan superstition. In consequence of this, the inquisitive tourist will find many vestiges of those superstitions even in the most enlightened parts of the kingdom, where their origin is unknown or forgotten; and they are complied with in conformity to general custom, or prompted by the association of early ideas and prejudices. Of these the most conspicuous are the fires still lighted up at particular times, remnants of the worship of Baal or Apollo; the collecting oaken sprigs in May, a Druidical rite; and many others, which cannot fail to interest the observer.

As the inquisitive traveller will doubtless make statistical observations in his progress through the country, the following quotation from Mr. Wakefield's multifarious and very intelligent work may form the basis of a series of reasoning highly deserving the attention of the politician. Speaking of the county of Louth, vol. 2. p. 616, he says--"This county has two large towns, one of which, Drogheda, is of considerable extent, but its inhabitants are remarkably poor. To those who have compared this place with Belfast, where the population is nearly the same, the difference must be very striking; and nothing can more clearly evince the superior condition of the Protestants over that of the Catholics, there being as many Protestants in Belfast as there are Catholics in Drogheda. The humbler classes of the Protestants are ashamed to be seen dirty, or with bad clothes; but, being so much outnumbered, they in consequence find very little society amongst persons of their own faith, and have a stronger propensity to emigrate."--This pictorial contrast of two towns is, in fact, but a picture of the whole island. Let the tourist then examine the Protestant and Catholic districts with impartiality--let him closely examine from what it is that the Catholics require to be _emancipated_! We do not anticipate--we are of no party; but the inquiry is of consequence and deserves attention, especially at a moment when the question of Emancipation is likely again to become a subject of parliamentary and public discussion.

To do justice to that subject requires facts, and not mere abstract reasoning. It cannot be the wish of any liberal Protestant to retain the Roman Catholics under undue subjection; but liberality has its bounds; and though a misplaced philanthropy may render us careless respecting our own individual rights, yet it must be remembered that it cannot justify us in yielding up the rights and the security of others. As far as _Catholic Emancipation_, as it is called, is consistent with _Protestant Security_, so far it is not only right but just and prudent to concede; but before _Protestant Ascendancy_ is given up, let us be certain, from an accurate investigation of facts, that _Protestant Security_ will remain inviolate. Let us examine the history of past times; and also examine mankind at the present day, with a strict reference to it. This cannot be done in a closet or editorial apartment in the metropolis; he who would investigate surely, and therefore safely, must visit the spot where, and the people by whom, these claims are made.

Again, we say, that it is not our wish to anticipate; but facts may be recorded. If the tourist ascertains that the Roman Catholic districts of Ireland are in greater penury than those where Protestantism predominates, he will not attribute that in the first instance to Protestant ascendancy, until he has examined the facts before his eyes. He will see that industry is the great agent in the one case; the want of it, the great and immediate agent in the other. Here then is a point for him from whence to start in his moral investigations; and he will at once observe, that in the Protestant districts six days in each week are dedicated to labour, and the sabbath dedicated to the offices of religion; whilst in other districts half the week is passed in the idleness or dissipation of holidays, and the sabbath neglected. It is true that in the breasts of the Irish Catholics he will find a strong sense of religion, agreeable to their modes of faith and ceremony; but he will also find that those modes of faith and ceremony are subversive of the spirit of industry, whose stream to be generally useful must not be dammed up at particular points, and suffered to run waste at others. But let not the writer of these sheets be misunderstood. Though fully impressed with the truth and justice of the foregoing observations, it is far from his wish to throw any obstacles in the way of the Catholic Faith. That Faith is free and unshackled, as far as regards God and man; if political restrictions still exist, they exist upon an impression that to do them away must be injurious to Protestantism. To adduce the reasons for that impression would be beyond our limits, and beyond our plan; but until that impression is proved to be groundless, unlimited concession must be withheld. The true and liberal philanthropist will also inquire whether, under the peculiar circumstances of their religion, the great body of the Irish Catholics would absolutely be benefited by an accordance with the claims set up. Until that be ascertained, he will pause; and though he may deprecate any thing like coercion, he will still be careful to avoid any thing like encouragement, until he is convinced that its results will at least be harmless.

To form an accurate judgement on these points demands an Irish tour. The conviction on his own mind which the editor has here hazarded, without any wish to prejudge the case in the minds of others, is not formed on slight grounds. An early acquaintance with that island, and subsequent rambles over most parts of it, joined to actual observation in many parts of Europe, and indeed in the four quarters of the globe, have convinced him that wherever Protestantism exists, with some very few exceptions, there are to be found cleanliness, comfort, and industry:--the reverse of the picture, though he would be supported in it by the unanimous assent of many continental travellers, he will not attempt to draw. Let him who doubts, and who chooses to make the Irish tour, examine these hints, and compare them with actual observation. It is true wisdom to learn from experience and observation--it is true candour to acknowledge error when facts judiciously examined and liberally contrasted lead to truth; and the editor's wish will be fully answered, if these expressed opinions, whether right or wrong, shall prompt the minds of his readers to that judicious and liberal examination. In either case the result must be beneficial to the empire; and the notice here taken of the very interesting subject, it is hoped, will neither be considered illiberal or misplaced. But it is now time to enter into details of the more prominent objects of curiosity to the tourist; and it must be acknowledged, with respect to our sister island, that, in taking a general view of its

ANTIQUITIES,

we have not the same facility of correct chronological specification, as in our general introduction to this work; for the antiquarian disputes, still unsettled, claim different dates for many of the most interesting objects. We may however premise, that the order in which the island has been peopled and colonized is generally agreed upon to commence with the CELTES, SCYTHI, and FIRBOLGS; then the PHŒNICIANS and MILESIANS in the south; the ROMANS, perhaps in a small degree; the SCOTS in the north; the DANES and OSTMEN; the ENGLISH invaders in the time of Henry II., followed by the SCOTTISH and ENGLISH colonists of James I., and during the civil wars.

It has even been supposed that the diversities of natural character, at the present day, in some measure illustrate the generally received chronological and topographical arrangement. Ledwich in his introduction to _Grose's Antiquities_, considers the CELTES as the primeval possessors of the country;--all under the system of Druidism, living a sylvan life, and worshipping the Deity in oaken groves, wherefore few memorials of them are left. In the north are to be traced, from the earliest ages, the SCOTI; in the south, the FIRBOLGS, then the MILESIANS, and also the PHŒNICIANS about two centuries before Christ; there also, according to Ptolemy, were the MENAPII and BRIGANTES; and the RHOBOGDII, DARNI, &c. in the north, of a later date than the first SCOTI, or INDO-SCYTHI, agreeable to Vallancey's theory. From these and other local circumstances connected with Ireland, there are few antiquities of very ancient date, with the exception of rude memorials, because nothing but wood was used in building until the 11th or 12th century; for until then, stone was only employed in funeral monuments, or _Cairns_, in _Cromlechs_, and sometimes in the _Barrows_, _Raths_, and _Danish forts_; also in the _Round Towers_, if their antiquity is so great as some writers suppose. Of the antiquities of modern date, the greatest number consist of _Castles_, _Churches_, and _Monasteries_, principally to be found within the limits of the ancient English Pale. This is evident from what Sir John Davis asserts--"Yet, which is strange to be related, they did never build any houses of brick or stone, some few poor religious houses excepted, before the reign of Henry II."

Of the earlier English antiquities, those consist of CATHEDRALS, CHURCHES, and CASTLES; some few Saxon, (at Kilcullen, Co. Kildare, and Disert, Co. Clare,) some Norman, but principally of later date.

DRUIDICAL MONUMENTS

are very numerous, particularly in some parts of the north. Dr. Drummond, in the scientific notes to his interesting poem on the Giant's Causeway, says that "numerous monuments of the Druidical superstition are still to be seen in the County of Antrim." The appearance of those agrees with the description in Mallet's _Northern Antiquities_; and also with the quotation from Wormius, copied by Ledwich,--"The structure of our altars is various; but generally a tumulus is formed, on whose summit three great stones are erected, and on them a fourth broader and more flat is laid, so that it exactly appears like a rude huge table resting on three feet." We may add, in respect to these

CROMLECHS,