The Raisin Industry A practical treatise on the raisin grapes, their history, culture and curing
Part 9
_The Vines and the Vineyard._--In planting, cuttings are generally used, not because they are most preferred, but because good rooted vines cannot be obtained. The distance to, and the difficulty of reaching, this district was formerly such that roots would suffer in transit and would rapidly dry, while cuttings could be had handy and fresh. The vines, originally planted eight by eight feet, have been given more distance of late, some vineyardists planting them eight by twelve feet, while others prefer twelve by twelve or ten by twelve feet. The varieties used are the Muscat of Alexandria only. This variety happened to be the one that was imported first from Riverside, I believe, and it was afterwards propagated by every one. The variety as grown in El Cajon is the type of Muscat of Alexandria with oblong berries, large clusters with loosely hanging berries and large strong stems. The shape of the vines is erect, with a few center shoots, strong and upright. The vines commence bearing the second year, and are said to pay expenses of caring for in the third year, but I think it would be safer to say in the fourth year.
As regards cultivation and plowing, many plow both ways and harrow and cultivate crosswise several times until the 1st of June, when, on account of the dryness of the soil, no more weeds start and no cultivation of any kind is needed. The large majority of the vineyards are splendidly kept, not a weed being seen anywhere for miles around. Winter pruning commences as soon as the leaves fall. In former years from five to nine spurs were left in pruning and two or three eyes on each spur, but it has been found profitable and judicious to leave more spurs, so as to take the sap in the spring, and now from twelve to fifteen spurs with two or three eyes each are left every winter. Spring or summer pruning has only been practiced the last two seasons, and being found very profitable is now adopted by everybody. The vines are not pinched, but headed well back as soon as the grapes are well set. This method has in this district the following advantages: It gives better shade to the bunches on account of the production of a strong second growth; it causes the bunches to fill better, and, finally, it leaves more room between the rows of the vines. I was told that any of these three advantages would warrant the system of summer pruning to be generally adopted. The valley has been unusually free from any insect pest, such as leaf-hoppers (_Erythroneura comes_) caterpillars, grasshoppers, etc., but suffers from mildew, not, however, to the extent that the presence of almost daily fogs would lead us to suppose. Sulphuring is now practiced to some extent, but not as much as it should be. The sulphur is applied with bellows as soon as the berries are the size of shot, but not before. Sulphuring for colure, or the dropping of the grapes when very small, is not practiced, nor was it ever suspected that it would help. Colure is quite common, much more so on sandy soil. Sunscald is frequent but not bad. I saw quite a number of grapes scalded on every vine, but not enough to warrant any special measures to be taken as a protection. The grapes have during this and last year ripened by the first days of September, but it is generally much later, or at about the 10th of September, when the vintage usually commences. The picking was, until last year, done by white labor, but the same was so very difficult to obtain that Chinese were then employed. They gave satisfaction to some, while to others not. Some of the principal growers are this year (1889) going to employ Chinese help at $1.25 per day, at which price they board themselves.
_The Crop._--The grapes are dried on redwood trays made of sawed redwood shingles, three-eighths of an inch thick. The trays are made two by three feet. The best growers are this year going to assort the grapes when putting them on the trays. This was never done before, but will be of great advantage. A tray will average eighteen pounds of fresh grapes, which will take about one month to dry,--never less than three weeks. There is but little second crop, generally none that can be saved. September is the warmest month, or else the grapes could not be dried. At a temperature of 103 degrees Fahrenheit, it was found that grapes scalded or cooked while on the trays. This is, however, very rarely the case. From ninety-five to one hundred degrees is considered the best temperature at which the best raisins are made. The sweatboxes used formerly were two by three feet and ten inches deep; but of late eight inches and six inches in depth is considered the best, on account of the facility with which they can be handled. As to packing, many advocate twenty-pound boxes, that are only four and one-half inches deep, contending that they will hold twenty pounds of loose raisins. Few Dehesas are put up, the general brands being three crown London layers, and three crown loose Muscats. Some are also put up in fancy paper boxes. This year the valley has two packing companies, who buy raisins in sweatboxes, and pay from four to five and a half cents per pound. The yield per acre is from two to three tons of green grapes, I should say this year nearer two than three tons. I saw, however, some that would average five tons per acre, but this land was favorably situated in a moister place than is generally found in Sweetwater valley, and the vines were yet growing on August 21st. I heard of much greater yields, so extraordinary indeed that they are not likely to return again. From five to seven tons to the acre is a really rare yield, even on the best land, where the water is within six or seven feet of the surface. This shows me conclusively that judicious irrigation would materially increase the crop, and greatly improve the uniform size of the berries. The profit on an acre of bearing Muscat vines is from fifty to one hundred and twenty-five dollars per acre. The latter is the most any one realized, and thirty-five dollars is considered a good profit. The expense of running a vineyard is hard to ascertain, but those best informed told me that forty dollars per acre would be an average; this of course includes everything. The small amount of weeds and the absence of irrigation materially lessens the expenses of the El Cajon vineyards.
Good vineyard or raisin land can be had for seventy-five dollars per acre. No vineyards in bearing have changed hands. Last year’s (1888) pack of the whole of San Diego county was variously estimated at from twenty to thirty thousand boxes, and this year at sixty thousand boxes of twenty pounds each.
The unanimous verdict of the best growers in El Cajon is that want of moisture is the greatest drawback to raisin culture there. And I agree with them in this, but also think it might to some extent be remedied, as water for irrigation is close at hand. At last I must say a few words as to the quality of the El Cajon and Sweetwater valley raisins. They are very sweet, highly flavored, the skin is thin, and the seeds are small and few. But while some of the berries are of very large size, there are comparatively few which would be considered large, and even the best bunches have too many small berries. The grapes that had plenty of water were simply magnificent, and a general irrigation system would greatly improve the size of the grapes, as well as the quality of the crop. The best selected raisins from this valley must be counted as among the very best. The constant fog injures the bloom on the raisins to some extent, and most raisins that I saw were in this respect deficient; but their color generally was very good. The Sweetwater valley raisins are in this respect finer than those of El Cajon; they are also farther inland, and have less fog. The Escondido raisins are said to be superior, but I saw none of them. While many vines have been planted in this locality of late, only one or two small vineyards are in bearing.
OTHER RAISIN DISTRICTS.
Of late raisin grapes have been planted in considerable quantities in Salt river valley and in Gila river valley in Arizona, but the outcome of the venture is yet unknown, at least to us. The growers of Arizona claim for their localities the advantage of great earliness, as the grapes ripen there in July, or a month earlier than in California.
In the Argentine Republic in South America it is said that the Spanish immigrants have planted many raisin grapes during the last few years. In Australia we are also informed that dipped raisins, and perhaps even sun-dried ones, have been produced, but even there the result is unknown to us. So far these raisins have cut no figure in the general market, but it is not improbable that many localities in those vast countries will be found where Muscat grapes can be profitably grown and cured.
CLIMATIC CONDITIONS, SOILS, LOCATION AND IRRIGATION.
CLIMATIC CONDITIONS FAVORABLE AND UNFAVORABLE TO THE RAISIN INDUSTRY.
_Limits of the Raisin Districts._--It is an interesting fact, and by no means a coincidence, that the raisin districts of the world are found on or between the same latitudes. Thus we find the California districts between latitudes 32°, 75´ and 38°, 75´. The latitude of Smyrna is 38°, 28´, 7´´, that of Malaga in Spain 36°, 75´, Valencia 39°, 25´, Denia 38°, 50´, the Grecian Islands and Morea 37° and 38°, and finally Huasco in Chile 28° south latitude. That the latter place is situated so much farther south or so much nearer the equator cannot exactly be considered exceptional, as it conforms with the general characteristics of the Southern hemispheres as compared with those on the northern half of the globe. In Europe the Muscat grape for raisin purposes is not a success north of the fortieth degree of latitude. While the limits in California and Chile are not yet fully ascertained, it may be presumed that, as far as regards this country, these limits will not differ very much from those of Spain and Asia Minor. Only years if not centuries of experience will finally decide where and where not raisin grapes can be grown and cured to perfection. While the vines and the grapes can be grown in many places, the proper curing of the raisins is attended with more or less difficulty in the various districts. With proper modes of curing the grapes, and by protecting them from the inclemencies of the weather, the limits of the successful raisin districts may be extended considerably both north and south.
_Dry Seasons, Spring and Fall Rains._--The climate of the Mediterranean basin, as well as of the raisin districts of the New World, present the peculiarity of having only two distinct seasons, one dry and warm, and one cold and wet. There are other parts of the world also characterized by a dry and a wet season, for instance Mexico and Central America, etc., but they differ in the important point, that whereas the climate of the raisin districts is dry during the growing or summer season, Mexico has then its greatest rainfall. While grape-growing may not be impossible under such circumstances, the curing and drying of raisins is impossible, except with the aid of costly and burdensome appliances, the expense of which will very much increase the cost of producing the raisins. The climate of the raisin centers is by no means uniform. As a rule, the farther north we go the less is the distinction between the dry and the wet season, the shorter is the former and the longer the season of rain. Experience shows that the less this distinction between the seasons is marked, and the shorter the rainless season, the less favorable is the climate for the raisin industry. The longer the dry season, and the less rain during the same, the more favorable is the locality for raisin drying and curing, supposing, of course, other necessary conditions are not absent. This absence of summer rains and cold fog is the most important climatic condition, and the one that more than any other decides upon the advantages of any certain locality for the industry under our consideration. A perusal of the reports from the different raisin districts will convince us of this. For California we need not refer to any special reports, as the newspapers are full of them every year from May to November, and it will suffice to state that any large amount of rain after the beginning of June, and especially in September, October and November, when the raisins are curing, is considered very detrimental, and sure to cause much loss. Heavy and continued rainfall during the drying season would not only injure the raisins, but might even totally ruin the crop. Any district where year after year such showers occur, would not be considered favorable for the raisin industry, and would no doubt be given up to something else. To show that these same conditions also exist in the Mediterranean raisin districts, we will here quote a few extracts from the United States consular reports from there. Consul W. E. Stevens, United States consul at Smyrna, writes:[5] “It happens occasionally that rain falls during the vintage time, causing heavy loss to growers through the inevitable deterioration in quality. This was the case last season (1883), and large quantities of raisins were in consequence shipped to France to be made into spirits.” From Valencia another consul writes: “In the event of wet and damp weather, the hurdles (or grape mats) are piled up in sheds covered with mats or painted canvas. Of course in this case the drying is retarded, the quality of the fruit deteriorates, and the expense and labor of curing are considerably increased.” Two years ago ten thousand tons were thus damaged in the Denia district. While the Mediterranean districts are comparatively rainless during the summer time, still they are far less so than California. The rainy and dry seasons there are less distinct than with us.
[5] Consular Reports, No. 41½, June, 1884, page 745.
Among the Grecian Islands, the production of currants is confined to only a few localities, principally on account of the untimely rainfall on the other islands. Dr. Davy (_Ionian Islands_, page 320) tells us: “The attempts to extend the culture of the currant to some other islands have been only partial, and attended with doubtful success. This, it is to be understood, is not owing, as has been asserted, to any unfitness of the soil on other islands, as it is analogous on them all, but rather to some difference of climate, especially about the times of ripening, gathering and drying of the fruit, consisting in greater liability to rain, a heavy fall of which is ruinous to the crop, and which, during the period of gathering in the currant islands, is considered a great calamity.” But even in Zante and Cephalonia in Greece, the crop is sometimes greatly injured on account of rain. Thus in 1857 a crop of fifty thousand tons was expected, but disastrous rains in August injured the raisin grapes to such an extent that seventeen thousand tons were totally destroyed, and twelve thousand tons became unfit for anything else than distilling. Malaga in Spain, which of all the districts most resembles California, has undergone similar experiences, both damaging and ruinous.
It is thus that the fall rains are everywhere feared the most, the more so where they may be expected with regularity, and where the district is so situated that the heat of the sun is not powerful enough to rapidly dry the injured crop. Thus in Valencia the rains are feared more than at Malaga. In the latter place the sun is powerful enough to dry the raisins, and only repeated showers would injure the crop. Our experience is very much the same, and the early fall rains in the northern part of the State are to be feared much more than rains at the same time farther south, where a few showers would soon be succeeded by warm weather, and a hot sun powerful enough to dry the partially cured grapes. On account of local conditions, certain parts of Central California are freer from these fall rains than the more southern districts, but this disadvantage is counteracted by the greater amount of warm weather and drying winds just at a time when they are most needed. But while the southern part of the State is in this respect not as favorably situated as some other parts, the disadvantage is greatly counteracted by the warmer and drier fall weather in October and November, and by drying winds which are often able to desiccate the moistened raisins in a very few days.
Spring rains in May or even in the early part of June cannot be considered greatly detrimental to the vines. On the contrary, if only occurring at long intervals, one or two showers say during the season, they are rather beneficial than otherwise. In California I have never known them to injure the crop, except if accompanied by heavy hail. Much alarm is regularly felt every time such a shower happens to come, but after it is well over it will generally be found that the vines look fresher and better, the ozone and ammonia which was brought down by the rain having acted as powerful fertilizers for the grape-leaves, and increased their vigor and growth. The only thing that might prove injurious at this or any other time of the growing season would be continued cloudy weather before or after such showers, which would cause mildew. Such weather has to my knowledge never been experienced. Occasionally spring rains also bring frost, and this of course is one of the greatest enemies of the raisin-vines.
_Winter Rains._--In order that the raisin grapes may develop and mature without the aid of irrigation, the winter rains should be sufficient to keep the soil moist during the dry months. The absolute quantity of rain thus necessary varies in different localities. In California, generally, we would say that from twenty to twenty-four inches of rain would be required every year to keep the soil sufficiently moist to grow Muscatel grapes without irrigation. The nearer we go to the coast the less rainfall is required to supply this moisture, and the farther we go inland, the more elevated the land, the less rain is needed. Thus a regular rainfall of twenty-four inches would possibly not suffice on the low plains of the San Joaquin valley, while in El Cajon in San Diego county one-half of this rainfall is enough to grow the vines and mature small crops of very good and superior grapes.
It matters not from where the moisture comes,--from rain, seepage, moist air or irrigation,--as long as it is not present in excess nor too scant. In El Cajon valley the moisture appears to be held in suspense in impervious strata, or perhaps in strata which contain and preserve the moisture as does a sponge. In parts of Chile, as well as in Malaga and Smyrna, the winter rainfall is sufficient to grow crops of fair size and good quality, but it is almost certain that judicious irrigation in any of these places proves beneficial and remunerative. Of all the present raisin districts, Smyrna enjoys the greatest rainfall, often as much as thirty odd inches of rain. Of localities which grow raisins profitably with the least possible amount of rain, and without irrigation, Huasco and El Cajon take the lead. In Central California, as well as in San Bernardino county, no raisin culture would be possible with the natural rainfall. In foreign countries, Valencia and the Grecian Islands, as well as Morea, are similarly situated in not having sufficient rainfall to produce paying crops.
As a rule it may be said that, where the rainfall is sufficient to grow the Muscats without irrigation and cause them to bear good crops, the fall rains are also too frequent and too injurious to the drying grapes to allow a profitable raisin cult. The proper amount of moisture necessary to perfect the grapes cannot be ascertained by the aid of the rain gauge. While, as we have said, from twenty to thirty inches may be enough in Smyrna, from seven to ten inches suffice in El Cajon, and in Chile even less is required. The proper amount of moisture can best be told by the state of growth of the vines. The vines must have moisture enough to be kept growing up to the very time of the maturity of the grapes. The proper sign of this is the green and fresh color of the young shoots or the tips, combined with a certain vigor of the tendrils. When the tips cease to grow, and the tendrils begin to dry up, then the moisture has begun to give out, and irrigation should have been resorted to; the winter rains were not sufficient.
_Frosts in Spring and Winter._--One of the frequent effects of spring showers is spring frosts. They are always injurious to the tender Muscat vine, and if occurring more than once during the same spring may entirely ruin the crop. In California such frosts occur sometimes in April, and observations inform us that they are most to be feared between the tenth and fifteenth of that month, while sometimes they come even later. The young buds are then either opening or fully developed into shoots, which the lightest frost will blacken and cause to dry up. Where the vines are irrigated and strong, one such frost may not ruin the crop, as new buds will start out in place of the old ones destroyed, and new shoots and new blossoms will come out. I have seen as many as three such crops of shoots develop from the winter buds, but each succeeding crop of such shoots is weaker than the preceding one, and bears less and later grapes. Happily, these frosts occur but very seldom in the Central and Southern California raisin districts, and during fifteen years of observation I have seen only three such frost years in which the branches were partially injured. In neither of these seasons was the crop materially injured as to quantity, the principal effect of the frost being a retarding of the crop for a week or more. Smoking of vineyards can only be successfully carried out in small valleys sheltered from heavy winds, but on the open plains such smoking is accompanied with difficulties, and its effect is uncertain. The growing of a limited number of windbreaks has in the Fresno district no doubt modified the climate, and made spring frosts rarer and less to be feared.