The Raisin Industry A practical treatise on the raisin grapes, their history, culture and curing
Part 6
_Lipari and Belvidere._--Of the Mediterranean countries, Italy produces the smallest quantity of raisins. We cannot imagine this to be on account of unsuitable soil and climate, but more on account of the tardiness of its people to take kindly to new industries and improve upon their older methods. In former years the raisins from Southern Italy were much exported to Northern Europe; to-day the trade is insignificant. In the sixteenth century, the raisins from Lipari and Belvidere were of considerable repute, but were, however, considered inferior to the Spanish raisins. The Island of Lipari, to-day principally known on account of its volcanoes, produces yet so-called Lipari currants of larger size than those from Morea. They are of much inferior quality, being hard and dry and of oblong shape.
_Pantellaria._--The Island of Pantellaria, between Sicily and Africa, also produces raisins of somewhat better quality, which, if better packed, would favorably compare with the Lexias of Valencia and Denia. The Pantellarias, or Belvideres, as they are known in the market, are principally consumed in Northern Italy and Southern France. They are sweet and good raisins, which, if carefully and intelligently handled, would rapidly improve in quality.
_Calabria._--Since the destruction of the Calabrian raisins through the mildew, the raisin production of this peninsula has largely increased. In 1876, it had reached eight thousand tons, but must now probably be double that amount. The Calabrian raisins produced on the mainland of Italy are of good quality, and are principally exported to France.
CHILE AND HUASCO RAISINS.
_Characteristics._--The Chile or Huasco raisin is one of the finest raisins in the world, and in the opinion of the author superior to both Spanish and California raisins. They excel in sweetness and aroma as well as flavor; their skin is thin, and the seeds are small. The color is entirely different from sun-dried California or Spanish raisins, being yellowish amber with a fine and thin bluish bloom, indicating that they have been dried in the shade or in partial shade without dipping in lye or other solutions.
_Location._--The number of acres devoted to raisin culture in Chile is not known. The grapes for this purpose are grown almost exclusively in the valley of the Huasco, back of the port of Huasco in the province of Atacama. There appear to be two distinct valleys of the same name, one situated only twenty minutes’ ride from the port of Huasco on the Pacific Ocean, the other farther inland about sixty miles from the coast. In the former place, the culture of the raisin grape is very limited, the whole valley and town only containing four hundred people, of which not all are occupied with the raisin industry. The interior valley is more extensive, and the largest quantity of the Huasco raisins come from this place. The port of Huasco is situated in latitude twenty-seven degrees, thirty minutes south, longitude seventy-one degrees, sixteen minutes west.
_Varieties._--The grape used for raisins is a variety of the Muscat, very similar to the Muscat of Alexandria. Grapevines transplanted to California resemble this variety very much, but, according to Professor Hilgard, set their fruit better, and do not suffer so much from colure. It is said that these grapes were imported to Chile long ago by the Spanish conquerors, and it is supposed they grew the vines from seed brought from Spain, and selected the best of the seedlings. In this way the slight difference of the Huasco grape from the Muscat of Alexandria can be accounted for.
_Soils._--The soil in the coast valley consists of a reddish, sandy loam, which changes to a fine yellow sand, of great richness. This sand covers the hills almost everywhere in the vicinity of the Huasco river, the nature of the country being a rolling one.
_Climate._--The climate is notoriously dry, and rain falls only very seldom between June and September, is of short duration and very scant. In the interior valley, rain is said to be seldom known, and the climate there can be called entirely rainless. Dew is abundant in the winter, but the summers are warm and dry.
_Irrigation._--Near the coast no irrigation is required, but in the interior valley the grapes are irrigated three times a year, first when the buds begin to swell, second when they begin to blossom, and lastly when the fruit is well advanced.
_The Vineyard._--The vines are planted six feet one way by eight feet the other, and the intermediate space is often planted to alfalfa, giving three crops of hay each year. The heads are kept low, the vines are pruned heavily, and only two eyes left on each cane. Sometimes whole branches are cut away, especially if they do not bear well. The vines are grown both on hillsides and in the valleys on the bottom lands. Many of the vineyards are surrounded by elevated arbors or trellises, over which the vines are trained, to keep off the heavy spring winds which otherwise would break the branches,--windbreaks, in fact. The cultivation of the Huasco vines is of the most primitive kind. The land is poorly cultivated, and the fact that alfalfa is grown between the rows of the vines indicates that the industry is not highly developed. On the other hand, it is not impossible that the crowding together of various things on the land may help to give the grapes a certain flavor or aroma.
There is said to be a great difference between the various Huasco grapes, some being very superior to others. The inferior kinds are called simply Muscats, while the better kinds are the Huascos. It is not known if these varieties come from different kinds of grapes, but it is likely that this is the case. Vines of the best variety transplanted to other localities than the Huasco valley give invariably indifferent results, and produce raisins inferior to the Huasco.
_Drying and Curing._--The poorer qualities are simply dried on boards or on the roofs of the houses in the sun; but the fine and most valuable raisins are dried in the shade. When ripe, the bunches are carefully picked and taken to open sheds with thatched roofs, and there hung up to dry. The raisins are turned at intervals, and when ready are packed in twenty-five-pound boxes without any great care or skill. The best Huasco raisin sells at fifty cents per pound in the local market, and is decidedly the most high-priced raisin known. The best variety is scarce even in Chile, and in Chilean statistics I could not find any quoted. The following houses in Huasco are dealers in fruits and raisins: Juan Quijada, Ramon F. Martinez, and José Manuel Balmaceda. The export from the port of Huasco in 1885 amounted only to $685,853. How large a portion of this was raisins is not known.
_CALIFORNIA RAISIN DISTRICTS._
A GENERAL REVIEW.
_Early History._--While the planting of raisin grapes and the production of raisins in California dates back some thirty odd years, the raisin industry cannot be said to be as yet twenty years old. Already, in 1851, Col. Agoston Haraszthy grew Muscatel vines from seeds of Malaga raisins. On the 25th of March, 1852, he imported the Muscat of Alexandria from Malaga, and ten years later, during a visit to that place on September 27, 1861, he selected cuttings of the Gordo Blanco which afterwards were grown and propagated on his San Diego county vineyard. The same year he imported Sultana vines from Malaga, and white and red Corinth from Crimea. Col. Haraszthy was thus the first one to introduce the raisin-vines in this State. Another importation of the ovoid Muscat of Alexandria was made in 1855 by A. Delmas and planted at San José, according to a statement made by his son D. M. Delmas,[3] the prominent San Francisco lawyer. G. G. Briggs of Davisville also imported Muscatel grapes from Malaga in Spain; while R. B. Blowers of Woodland, Yolo county, started his raisin vineyard in 1863 from Gordo Blanco cuttings received from Col. Haraszthy. In 1876, W. S. Chapman, imported the best Muscatels from Spain for his colonists in the Central California Colony in Fresno, which proved in no way different from those already growing there. Who produced the first raisins in California will probably never be satisfactorily known. According to page 88 of the Report of the State Agricultural Society of California, 1863, cured raisins were exhibited by Dr. J. Strentzel at the State Fair in 1863.[4] The first successful raisin vineyards in the State were those planted by G. G. Briggs at Davisville in Solano county, and by R. B. Blowers at Woodland in Yolo county. Both these gentlemen grew the raisin grapes on a large scale, and shipped raisins extensively. The Briggs vineyard consisted mainly of Muscats of Alexandria, while the Blowers vineyard contained the Gordo Blanco. Both these vineyards produced raisins as early as 1867; but it was not until 1873 that their raisins cut any conspicuous figure in the market. That year six thousand boxes were produced in the State, the majority by far coming from these two vineyards.
[3] See also Wickson’s “California Fruits,” page 357.
[4] _Same_, page 79.
_Later Planting._--In 1873, in the fall, the Muscat vines were first brought to the Fresno raisin district, where twenty-five acres of Muscat of Alexandria were planted in the Eisen vineyard. A few years later, or in 1876 and 1877, T. C. White planted the Raisina Vineyard in the Central California Colony near Fresno from Gordo Blanco Muscatels brought from R. B. Blowers’ vineyard at Woodland. The following year, or in 1877-78, Miss M. F. Austin began improving her Hedgerow Vineyard, also in the same colony, with grapes of the same kind as Messrs. White and Blowers. Robert Barton had also planted some twenty-five acres of Muscat grapes, but did not make raisins until later. The year 1879 saw the first planting of the A. B. Butler vineyard, now the largest vineyard in the State. J. T. Goodman had begun improving his place at the same time; while Col. William Forsyth entered upon raisin-grape growing between 1881 and 1882, most of his grapes, however, being planted a year or two later. From that time the raisin vineyards in Fresno multiplied rapidly, and about 1886 and 1887 raisin production became recognized as the principal industry of the district.
The history of the development of the raisin industry in the other districts of the State runs very much the same. Riverside had entered the field in 1873, when the founder of that colony, Judge John Wesley North, planted there the first raisin-vines of the variety Muscat of Alexandria. But raisin-grape growing did not become general until 1875 and 1876, when the largest vineyards in the colony were planted. In El Cajon valley in San Diego county, the first raisin vines of the Muscat of Alexandria variety were planted in 1873 by R. G. Clark; but the raisin industry did not get a good start until some six or seven years ago, while most of the vineyards were planted from 1884 to 1886. In Orange county, raisin grapes were planted at the same time as in Riverside and El Cajon by MacPherson Bros., near Orange, now called MacPherson. The raisin industry developed rapidly, and Robert MacPherson, the largest grower and packer in the district, and at one time in the State, handled yearly over one hundred thousand boxes, while the yearly crop of the district rose to one hundred and seventy thousand boxes.
In Central California, the raisin industry is gradually spreading from the original center around Fresno, the greater freedom from rain and the better facilities for irrigation being great inducements for the settlers to engage in the growing and curing of the raisin grapes. The San Joaquin valley is especially adapted to the production of raisins, the Fresno raisin district being by far the largest, and now producing almost one-half of the raisin crop of the State. In San Bernardino county and district, the raisins are also grown to great profit and with great facility, and are of equal quality with those of the interior of the State. But the raisin industry is here gradually giving way to the culture of oranges and other citrus fruits, and the increase in the raisin acreage has therefore not been so great as in the San Joaquin valley. In El Cajon, irrigation is not used, and the raisins produced there are very similar to the Malaga raisins, but through absence of irrigation the crops are smaller than in any of the other districts in the State. In Los Angeles and Orange county district, the raisin industry has suffered immensely from the ravages of the vine plague, an as yet entirely mysterious disease, and the output of raisins there has dwindled down to almost nothing. But the farmers of the district are ready to replant whenever there are any prospects that the vines will do well again.
In the interior of California, north of Solano and Yolo counties, large quantities of raisin grapes have been planted during the last few years, both in the foothill valleys, out on the plains, and in the bottom lands of the Sacramento, Yuba and Feather rivers, etc. Raisins of very good quality have been produced in that part of the State for years in limited quantities, but it is yet a question to what extent that section can compete with the central and southern parts of the State. In Sutter county around Yuba City the cultivation of a seedless raisin grape is advancing rapidly, the raisins made from it being of excellent quality and finding a ready market.
_Acreage and Crops._--The quantity of raisin-vines planted cannot be estimated correctly; but it is certain that at least sixty-five thousand acres of Muscat vines are now set out in the State, including grapes in bearing, as well as vines lately set out.
California enjoys a climate peculiarly adapted to the culture and curing of the raisin grape. The summers are warm and rainless, the winters again moderately rainy. The interior is free from injurious fogs and heavy dews, while the most southern coast is only visited by warm fogs, which are not greatly harmful to the grapes. Irrigation is practiced almost everywhere, except in El Cajon valley, and in some of the northern districts of the State, but even there it is no doubt that judicious irrigation would be beneficial and greatly increase the crop. The demand for California raisins has kept pace with the improvements in curing and packing, and has steadily increased from year to year. What the future has in store only the future can tell, but it is almost certain that first-class raisins will always be in demand, while inferior grades may from time to time bring lower prices. The ruling price of raisins in sweatboxes, as they may be had from those growers who do not pack themselves, has been from four to five cents per pound. Of late years, the tendency is developing to pay according to quality, and from three to seven cents was the ruling price for unpacked raisins in sweatboxes during last season (1889). This practice will greatly promote the raisin industry and encourage growers to grow large grapes and fine bunches, and to cure their raisins well. It will also benefit the buyers, who will know what they pay for, and who will be able to furnish better grades, and more of the best grades than formerly, when good, bad and indifferent raisins brought five cents per pound.
The raisin crop of 1889 did not exceed one million boxes. Should we venture upon a statement as to the distribution of the same among the various counties or districts of the State, the following figures would be found as near correct as it is possible to get them:
Fresno district 475,000 twenty-pound boxes. Tulare 15,000 “ “ “ Kern 4,000 “ “ “ Yolo and Solano 120,000 “ “ “ Scattering 25,000 “ “ “ San Bernardino 265,000 “ “ “ Orange and Los Angeles 8,000 “ “ “ San Diego 75,000 “ “ “ ------- 987,000 “ “ “
YOLO AND SOLANO.
_Location and Acreage._--The district is situated north of San Francisco Bay, bordering on it as well as on the Sacramento river, and is a part of the Sacramento valley. The number of acres overreaches seven thousand, and is increasing yearly. The principal vineyards are those of the late G. G. Briggs at Davisville, Solano county, with three hundred acres, and at Woodland in Yolo county, four hundred and sixty acres; E. Gould, also at Davisville, two hundred acres; H. M. Larou, at same place, about fifty acres; sundry vineyards around Davisville, fifty acres; around Woodland and Capay valley, some four hundred acres;--or in full bearing more than two thousand acres. The district comprises the southern part of Yolo and the northern part of Solano counties. The grape used for raisins is principally the Muscat of Alexandria, except the vineyard of R. B. Blowers, which is composed exclusively of Gordo Blanco. The Muscat of Alexandria is generally preferred, as it makes a fine raisin and bears well.
_Soil and Climate._--The soil varies somewhat; the best is a deep gray, alluvial bottom-land soil; other soils are not much thought of for Muscatel raisin grapes. The average depth of water is about eighteen feet from the surface. It is not necessary, as a rule, to first level the land, as the ground is very level naturally. The rainfall averages thirteen inches. The most rain falls in January and February; the least falls in August. There is seldom a shower in the summer, but about November 1st rains are almost always certain to interfere with the drying of the grapes. Sometimes the rain comes in October, when it causes considerable damage to the grapes and partially dried raisins. There is very little dew in summer time, but plenty in October and also some in September. The temperature is considerably modified by the nearness of the bay. It reaches in the hottest part of the summer one hundred and fourteen degrees Fahrenheit in the shade, but only for a day or two. The average highest is about ninety degrees Fahrenheit in the shade, while the heat almost every day in July and August shows eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit in the shade. Thus this district is considerably cooler than the San Joaquin valley and San Bernardino county, but warmer than Los Angeles and San Diego districts. There are heavy frosts in winter, when at times even the thermometer falls to eighteen degrees Fahrenheit, although this is the extreme low temperature, six or seven degrees of frost being more common. There is spring frost in April one year in every three or four, and the vineyards are then smoked to prevent injury to the vines. Irrigation is not needed to produce crops, only to produce larger crops, as it increases the yield fifty per cent. Generally two irrigations a year are needed, the first one in early summer, the other later, when the berries have begun to ripen. Water from ditches is used and carried to the vines in furrows only, no flooding being practiced.
_The Vineyard._--In planting, cuttings are used principally, but rooted vines are preferred by some. The distances most common are ten by ten feet each way, one vineyard being set ten feet by sixteen feet. The vines bear the third year. The ground is plowed and cross-plowed, the first plowing being from the vines, and the second to the vines. Harrowing and cultivating both ways are secondary operations, continued to the middle of May, but seldom later. Hoeing the vines finishes the work of the soil in the middle or end of May.
In pruning, the crowns are never raised over six inches above the ground, from seven to eight spurs are left on large vines, and each spur is pruned to two or three eyes each. Formerly more eyes, say from four to five, were left on each cane, but it was found that this was too many, hence the change to two or three eyes. Summer pruning is practiced by some, but not by all; there is yet a controversy in regard to its usefulness. When practiced, the vines are cut six or eight inches from the tops, and this is done not later than June. Sulphuring is in use everywhere; the vines are sulphured two times, once before and once after the bloom. Sulphured vines do not suffer from mildew. Colure, or the dropping of the young berries, is not common, the Muscat of Alexandria even setting well. The leaf-hopper (_Erythroneura comes_) is more common in some years than in others. They eat the leaves and cause the grapes to sunburn. Grasshoppers have never caused any damage. Grape moths are more or less common, but never troublesome. Black-knot is often seen on neglected vines, but is rare in old vineyards well cared for.
_The Crop._--The grapes ripen in September, generally from the first to the tenth. The drying and curing occupies three weeks. The bunches are placed on trays made of pine two feet by three. Several growers have artificial dryers, which are needed for curing the second crop. The sweatboxes are large enough to contain seventy pounds of raisins, and are eight inches deep. In the Briggs raisin vineyard, the following brands are packed: three crown Layer Muscatels; two crown Layer Muscatels; one and two crown Loose Muscatels; Dehesas and Seedless Muscatels. The raisins are seldom sold in sweatboxes, and no fixed price is known for such raisins. Most growers pack their own raisins. The oldest raisin vineyard is that started by the late G. G. Briggs, and now owned by his widow. The most renowned vineyard was that owned by R. B. Blowers of Woodland, which has of late years been mostly replaced by other crops. Raisin land can be had for from one hundred to one hundred and fifty dollars per acre. This is vacant land of the very best quality. An average profit of fifty dollars per acre is realized, although some have made more money out of their vines. A yield of two or three tons of grapes per acre is common. As regards prices of labor, etc., the following were those most common last season: Man and team, who boards himself and animals, three dollars and twenty-five cents per day, can plow one and a half acres of vineyard well. Pruning, one man, one dollar per day, can prune three hundred vines, or three-fourths of an acre. Laborers generally board themselves. The raisins of this district were the first ones in the State or on this continent to attract attention, and they were the first which successfully competed with Spain. The crop of 1889 reached one hundred and twenty thousand boxes.
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.
_General Remarks._--The Muscatel and Sultana raisin grapes grow almost everywhere in the State, and it is therefore natural enough that the planting of raisin-vines should have increased considerably of late years, even in localities situated outside of those raisin districts mentioned, which have already made a success of the raisin industry. Below will be found a few notices from various such places which aspire to raisin fame, some of which have yet to make their reputation in this line. These notices are partly taken from the San Francisco _Chronicle_, which paper went to the trouble and expense of collecting such statistics at the beginning of the year. It must be remembered, however, that these statements are more or less approximate. As will be seen, all these localities here mentioned lie in the interior or the Sacramento valley proper, enjoying an inland climate. The climate in this valley is somewhat like that of the San Joaquin valley, of which it is an extension. Only the heat in summer is less, the rain in winter is more profuse, the showers in the spring of the year are later and those of the fall are earlier.