Part 1

_The New Cookery Books_

III

The Pudding and Pastry Book

THE NEW COOKERY BOOKS.

By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.

Fcap. 8vo, cloth, Cover designed, 2s. each.

I.

THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.

II.

THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.

III.

THE PUDDING AND PASTRY BOOK.

The Pudding and Pastry Book

By Elizabeth Douglas

London Grant Richards 48 Leicester Square

Preface

The following pages naturally contain only a brief selection from the thousands of sweets which exist; they have been chosen with an eye to dainty quality, and to simplicity, and every receipt has been tested.

Three words concerning sweets: French white fire-proof dishes are better for baking puddings than the ordinary English culinary utensils; small cups or glasses are more charming receptacles for jellies, creams and custards than large dishes; and the magic properties of salt (even in the preparation of sweets) cannot be too much insisted upon, the deprecatory English cook to the contrary.

E. D.

Table of Contents

PAGE

General Directions 1-5

Milk Puddings 7-12

Boiled Custards 15-17

Baked Custards 20-24

Fruit Dishes 26-34

Pancakes 37-39

Fritters 41-47

Omelets 49-52

Baked Soufflés 55-58

Soufflé Puddings 61-64

Hot Puddings 66-77

Sauces 80-87

Jellies 89-96

Creams 97-108

Cold Puddings 110-121

Pastry 123-127

Open Tarts and Tartlets 129-134

American Pies 137-141

Cream Ices 142-149

Water Ices 151-155

Iced Puddings, Mousses, Parfaits, etc. 157-162

Sugars 164-165

General Directions

_Measuring._--Flour, sugar, salt, ground spices, should always be sifted before measuring.

A cup is a breakfast-cup holding half a pint. The spoons are the silver ones in general use.

A spoonful of dry material is one in which the convexity at the top corresponds to the concavity of the spoon. A scant spoonful should be made level with the edges of the spoon.

In measuring half a tea-spoon of dry material, fill it first, and then divide it with a knife the length of the spoon.

It is necessary to remember in measuring half or quarter cups that a cup is smaller at the bottom than the top. It is most satisfactory to have half-pint measures which are marked into quarters.

_Table of Measures_

4 cups flour = 1 quart or 1 lb. 2 cups of butter (solid) = 1 lb. 2¹⁄₂ cups powdered sugar = 1 lb. 1 cup = ¹⁄₂ pint 1 glass = ¹⁄₂ pint 1 pint milk or water = 1 lb. 9 large eggs = 1 lb. 1 table-spoon butter = 1 oz. 1 heaping table-spoon butter = 2 ozs. Butter the size of an egg = 2 ozs.

_To clean currants._--Sprinkle the currants with flour, put them on a coarse sieve, and rub them until the stems and grit are separated and go through the sieve. Then wash thoroughly in water, changing it until clear. Drain on a towel and pick over. Dry, if the weather permits, in the _sun_, not in an oven.

_To stone raisins._--Pour boiling water over the raisins, and let them stand in it for ten minutes. Drain and rub each raisin between finger and thumb till the seeds come out. Cut open or chop.

_Sultanas._--Pick over sultanas carefully, removing the little stems.

_To chop suet._--Sprinkle the suet with flour. Chop in a cold place, removing all membrane carefully.

_To boil puddings._--Pour the pudding mixture into a well-buttered basin, leaving room for it to swell or rise. Take a perfectly clean cloth, dip it in boiling water, and flour plentifully inside where it covers the pudding. Tie it up tightly round the basin. Stand in boiling water. Do not let the water stop boiling for an instant until the pudding is done. If it boils away, renew with fresh boiling water.

_To steam puddings._--Cover the basin (which should be buttered) with buttered paper. Set in a covered steamer over boiling water. Keep the water boiling hard.

_Bain-marie._--Bain-maries can be bought, but a saucepan placed upon a trivet in a larger saucepan containing hot water does equally well.

_Gelatine._--Gelatine should always be soaked in _cold_ water for one or two hours before using. Then it should be dissolved in a very little hot water, unless otherwise specified, and strained.

The greatest care must be taken in adding liquid gelatine to a cold mixture, as it so quickly solidifies. Strain it first, and then very gradually add it to the mixture, beating hard all the time.

_To whip cream._--Whip cream in as cold a place as possible. It will whip easiest if it has been kept on ice for two or three hours. While whipping, remove the froth as it comes on to a sieve to drain. The liquid cream which drains off can be returned to the basin and whipped again. Sugar can be added before or after whipping. The cream will be lighter if the sugar is whipped with it.

_To melt chocolate._--Put the chocolate in a saucepan on the oven when the heat is very moderate. Watch that it does not burn.

_Meringue for puddings._--To make a meringue to cover a pudding, beat several whites of egg until frothy but not stiff. Then add the sugar gradually in the proportion of one table-spoon of powdered sugar to each white. Beat till stiff. Spread over the pudding when it is cool. Put in a moderate oven, and take out as soon as the meringue has risen, and is delicately browned. Serve quickly.

_To blanch almonds._--Put the almonds into boiling water and let them soak in it until the skins rub off easily between the finger and thumb. Drain and spread out to dry.

_To pound almonds._--After blanching let them soak for an hour in cold water, then pound in a good sized mortar until reduced to a soft pulp. Whilst pounding add a few drops of orange-flower water or lemon juice.

_Mixing._--There are three ways of mixing. Stirring, Beating, Cutting (or Folding).

_To stir._--Let the spoon touch the bottom and sides of the basin, and move it round quickly in circles of various sizes. Do not lift it out of the mixture, and work well against the sides.

_To beat._--Tip the bowl to one side. Bring the spoon or fork quickly down into the mixture and through it, take it out the other side and bring it over and down again, scraping the sides well each time it goes in.

It is important to keep the bowl of the spoon well scraped out during mixing.

_To cut or fold._--Turn over the mixture with a spoon, lift it up, folding in the white of egg as lightly as possible. Do not stir or beat but mix very gently until quite blended.

_To beat butter._--Butter which is to be beaten should not be melted; but it can be softened by being kept for a while in a warm place.

* * * * *

To all sweets, with a few exceptions such as jellies, creams and fruit dishes, salt should be added. It must be used carefully, since the quantity required will necessarily vary. Salt is of the highest importance in bringing out the full flavour of the ingredients used. It can be added to flour or milk, or when the whites of eggs are used it will serve a double purpose if added to them, as it makes them much easier to beat up.

Milk Puddings

PAGE

Apple Tapioca Pudding 7

Bread and Butter Pudding 7

Bread Pudding 8

Gâteau de Riz 9

Rice Cream 9

Rice Pudding 10

” ” with Raisins 10

Rice Soufflé 11

Tapioca Pudding--I. 11

” ” II. 12

Apple Tapioca Pudding

1 teacup tapioca 1¹⁄₂ pints warm water 6 apples 1 lemon 1 tea-spoon butter 1 cup milk 1 cup powdered sugar

Soak the tapioca in the water. Add to it the butter, melted, a little salt, half the sugar and the milk. Peel and core six sour apples, filling them with the rest of the sugar with which the juice of half a lemon and the grated peel of a whole lemon have been mixed. Put the apples into a deep pudding-dish. Pour the tapioca and milk round them. Bake an hour.

This pudding may be made with plums, gooseberries or currants; they should be well sweetened.

Bread and Butter Pudding

Bread Butter Sultanas Powdered cinnamon 3 eggs 1 pint milk 3 table-spoons powdered sugar

Cut a number of slices of bread, taking off the crusts and spreading them with butter. Butter a pudding-dish and fill it three parts full with the slices of bread and butter, sprinkling a little powdered cinnamon and a few sultanas between each layer. Beat the sugar and eggs together. Add the milk and flavouring. Strain. Pour slowly on the bread, letting it absorb all it can. Bake in a moderate oven for an hour.

A good variation of this pudding is made by spreading each layer of bread and butter with jam.

*Bread Pudding

1¹⁄₂ cups powdered sugar 2 cups bread-crumbs 1 quart milk 5 eggs 1 table-spoon butter Vanilla

Put the bread-crumbs, which should be very fine, to soak in the milk. Mix the butter and one cup of sugar. Add the well-beaten yolks, and beat well together. Add bread-crumbs and milk and a little vanilla. Butter a pudding-dish and fill it not more than two-thirds full. Bake in a moderate oven until set. Spread quickly with jelly or jam and cover with the whites beaten to a froth and mixed with half a cup of sugar. Put back in the oven to brown quickly. Serve cold with cream.

This pudding can be made with crushed and sweetened fresh strawberries instead of jam.

Gâteau de Riz

5 table-spoons rice ¹⁄₂ cup powdered sugar 1 quart milk 6 eggs Lemon peel 1 bay leaf

Boil the rice and sugar in the milk, with a thin strip of lemon peel and the bay leaf, very gently until all the milk is absorbed. When cold, add four whole eggs and two extra yolks previously well beaten, and two whites beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all well together. Butter a mould, and sprinkle very fine bread-crumbs all over it. Pour in the rice and bake for half-an-hour in a quick oven.

A small cup of strong coffee can be added while the rice is being cooked, or a handful of candied cherries after the eggs have been added.

Rice Cream

1 tea-cup rice 1¹⁄₂ pints milk or 1 pint milk and ¹⁄₂ pint cream ¹⁄₂ cup powdered sugar ¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla

Boil the rice in the milk (with a very little salt) until it is soft and thick and all the milk is absorbed. Add the sugar when partly cooked, and stir in the vanilla when the rice is done. Pour into small moulds or cups. Leave till the following day. Serve cold with custard, cream or cold fruit sauce.

*Plain Rice Pudding

¹⁄₂ cup rice ¹⁄₂ cup brown sugar 1 quart milk A little salt

Let the rice soak for half-an-hour in the milk. Add the sugar. Bake over two hours in a moderate oven.

Rice Pudding with Apples or Raisins

3 table-spoons rice 1 quart milk 3 table-spoons brown sugar Salt 3 sour apples Or 1 cup raisins or sultanas

Soak the rice in the milk for an hour. Add a little salt, the sugar, the apples pared and cut into eighths, or the stoned raisins or sultanas. Butter a deep pudding-dish and fill it, covering it with a plate. Bake very slowly for four hours.

*Rice Soufflé

¹⁄₂ cup rice 1 pint milk 6 eggs 6 table-spoons powdered sugar 1 table-spoon butter ¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla

Cook the rice for twenty minutes in a large sauce-pan of salted boiling water. Drain it and cook it in the milk in a double-boiler for ten minutes. Beat the yolks until light and creamy. Add the sugar and softened butter. Stir the eggs, etc. into the rice and cook for five minutes, but do not allow it to boil. Let it get cold. Beat well together, add the vanilla, and lightly stir in the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a buttered mould for half-an-hour. Serve with a sauce.

Tapioca Pudding--I

5 table-spoons tapioca 1 quart milk 1 table-spoon butter ¹⁄₂ cup brown sugar (3 eggs)

Soak the tapioca over night, or if this has not been done, let it simmer for half-an-hour in water. Drain and add the milk, sugar, melted butter and a little salt. Butter a dish and bake in a moderate oven for an hour.

Three eggs and a little vanilla can be added. They should be thoroughly well beaten and stirred into the milk.

*Tapioca Pudding--II

1 breakfast-cup tapioca 5 eggs 1 quart milk 1 cup powdered sugar ¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla

Cover the tapioca with water and soak all night. Then boil it till tender. Make a custard (see p. 15) of the five yolks, sugar and milk. Drain the tapioca. Put it into a large basin, adding a very little salt. Pour the custard over it and beat well together, adding the vanilla. Whip the whites to a firm froth. Stir them lightly in. Butter a pudding-dish and pour in the mixture. Set it in a pan of boiling water in a very moderate oven. Cover it with a dish. Bake until the custard becomes thick and a little set (it must not be as firm as a baked custard). Brown with a salamander or set in a hot oven for a few minutes.

Boiled Custards

PAGE

Plain Custard 15

Caramel Custard 15

Chestnut Custard 16

Chocolate Custard 16

Coffee Custard 16

Tapioca Custard 17

General Directions

In making custards it is of the utmost importance that they should not be allowed to boil. They are best made in a porcelain double-boiler or in a bain-marie (see p. 15).

Cooked white of egg may be added as a garnish to any custard. To prepare it, beat the whites to a stiff froth, and either put it on a sieve and steam it; or drop a tablespoonful at a time into boiling milk, removing it with a skimmer as soon as firm. Whipped cream or ratafias may also be used.

Plain Custard

1 pint milk 3 or 4 yolks of eggs 3 tablespoons powdered sugar ¹⁄₂ teaspoon vanilla

Beat the yolks in a good sized basin until light and creamy. Add the sugar and a very little salt. Scald the milk and pour it gradually over the yolks, stirring constantly whilst doing so. Pour the custard back into a double-boiler in the outer part of which is very hot water. Stir continually until the custard thickens. When it is thick enough it will coat the spoon. It must not boil or the custard will curdle. Strain at once into a jug. Add the flavouring when cool.

Caramel Custard

Melt three table-spoons of powdered sugar in a saucepan and stir it over a quick fire until it is a rich brown, being very careful that it does not burn. Pour this into a basin and beat it well with three or four yolks of eggs. Proceed as for plain custard (see above).

*Chestnut Custard

1 lb. chestnuts 4 eggs 4 ozs. powdered sugar 1 pint milk or cream ¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla

Boil, peel and pound the chestnuts. Add the well beaten yolks, a little salt and the sugar. Beat well together. Add the milk or cream. Beat the whites to a stiff froth and add them gradually, stirring continually. When well mixed, pour into a double boiler and stir until the custard thickens. Add the vanilla when the custard is cool.

*Chocolate Custard

Add to one pint of milk three table-spoons of grated chocolate. Boil until the chocolate is melted. Proceed as for plain custard (see p. 15). When cold stir in a gill of rich cream. Serve very cold.

*Coffee Custard

To a pint of plain custard (see p. 15) add a coffee cup of strong, good coffee, and an extra table-spoon of powdered sugar. Omit the vanilla.

*Tapioca Custard

2 table-spoons tapioca 1 pint milk 2 eggs ¹⁄₃ cup powdered sugar ¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla

Soak the tapioca for two hours in hot water in a double-boiler. Drain. Put back and add the milk. Cook until tender and clear. Carefully mix with the tapioca the two yolks beaten well, the sugar and a little salt. Cook until the custard thickens. Take off the fire and stir in the whites beaten to a stiff froth. When cool add the vanilla. Serve very cold.

Baked Custards

PAGE

Baked Custard (plain) 20

Caramel Custard 20

Chocolate Custard 21

Cocoanut Custard 22

Coffee Custard 22

Crème Brûlée 22

Crème Renversée 23

Lemon Custard 24

General Directions

The milk for baked custards should always be boiled.

It is of the greatest importance in baking custards to have a slow oven. It is a good thing to leave the oven door a little open for a short time.

It is best, although not necessary, to stand the dish of custard in another containing hot water. The water should simmer.

Custards can also be cooked by placing them in a large saucepan containing hot water, which should reach half-way up the mould or cups used. The water should be brought to a boil. Then the saucepan should be set back where it will simmer gently, and it should be covered. This method takes about an hour. It is best to let the custard stay in the water until it is cold.

Baked Custard (plain)

6 yolks 2 whites 6 table-spoons powdered sugar 1 quart milk

Scald the milk. Beat the yolks and two whites together until light and creamy. Add the sugar to them and a little salt. Beat again. Pour the scalded milk over them slowly, stirring all the time. Strain into a buttered pudding-dish or into small cups. Sprinkle with nutmeg. Bake in a slow oven for forty minutes.

*Caramel Custard

¹⁄₂ cup sugar 1 quart milk 8 yolks 2 whites 1 tea-spoon vanilla

Melt the sugar with a very little water in an iron saucepan. Stir it over a quick fire until it is a rich brown, being very careful that it does not burn. Beat the yolks and whites till light. Scald the milk. Add the sugar to it and pour slowly on the eggs, stirring continually. Add vanilla and a little salt. Strain into dish. Set the dish containing custard inside another vessel in which there is hot water and bake in a very slow oven for an hour. This custard is best the day after it is made. It should be set but creamy, and not as stiff as the ordinary plain, baked custard.

Chocolate Custard

1 quart milk 6 yolks 1 cup powdered sugar 3 ozs. grated chocolate 1 tea-spoon vanilla

Add the chocolate to the milk and boil until it is thoroughly dissolved. Beat the yolks thoroughly. Add the sugar to them and beat again. Pour the boiling milk and chocolate over the yolks and sugar, stirring continually. Add the vanilla and strain into a pudding-dish. Bake in a very slow oven for forty-five minutes to an hour. Serve very cold.

*Cocoanut Custard

¹⁄₂ lb. grated fresh cocoanut ¹⁄₄ lb. powdered sugar 1 table-spoon rose-water Milk ¹⁄₂ pint cream ¹⁄₂ tea-spoon powdered cinnamon 2 yolks 4 whites

If there is not half a pint of cocoanut milk, add to it cold milk until there is that amount. Into this stir the sugar and rose-water. Stir in the cream and well-beaten yolks. Beat the whites to a very stiff froth, and add them alternately with the grated cocoanut and cinnamon. Bake in cups set in hot water in a moderate oven.

Coffee Custard

Make as for chocolate custard, flavouring with a coffee-cup of good strong coffee instead of chocolate, and adding another yolk.

*Crème Brûlée

1 pint cream 4 yolks

Scald the cream. Pour it slowly over the well-beaten yolks. Put the cream in a double-boiler and stir until it thickens, but do not let it boil. Pour into a shallow dish.

When it is cold sift powdered sugar thickly over it. Set in a _very_ slow oven for quarter of an hour. Take it out. Brown the sugar with a salamander. Serve cold.

*Crème Renversée

1³⁄₄ pints milk 6 yolks 3 whites 6 table-spoons powdered sugar 1 tea-spoon vanilla

Beat the yolks and whites together. Add the sugar. Beat again. Pour the scalded milk gently over the eggs, stirring continually. Add the vanilla and a little salt.

Melt a quarter of a pound of sugar in an iron sauce-pan; stir it over a quick fire until it is a rich brown. Plunge a mould into boiling water and drain it quickly. Pour part of the prepared sugar into it at once, coating the sides evenly with it. Strain the custard immediately into the mould. Cover with a plate and set in a pan of boiling water in a moderate oven. Bake until quite firm. This can be tested with a knife, which should come out clean if the custard is done. When the custard is cold, turn it carefully out of the mould and pour round it the rest of the syrup, with which a little hot water should have been mixed.

Lemon Custard

6 eggs 2 lemons ¹⁄₂ lb. powdered sugar 1 wine-glass brandy 1 stale sponge cake 1 pint milk or cream 2 ozs. butter

Into a basin put the yolks of the eggs. Beat them well. Add three whites, the rinds of the lemons grated fine and the juice of one lemon. Beat well again. Add the sugar, brandy, and sponge cake finely crushed. Beat all together thoroughly. Add the cream and the butter, previously softened, but not melted. Bake in small moulds in a quick oven for half-an-hour.

Fruit Dishes

PAGE

Baked Apples--I. 26

” ” II. 26

Baked Bananas 26

Flaming Peaches 27

Grated Pine Apple 27

Miroton 27

Rum Tutti Frutti 28

Stewed Fruit 28

” Apples 29

” Figs 30

” Peaches 30

” Pears--I. 31

” ” II. 31

” ” (White) 32

” Prunes 32

Strawberries and Cream 33

Fruit Salads 33

Orange Salad 34

” and Cocoanut Salad 34

Pine Apple Salad 34

Baked Apples--I

Peel and core several good cooking apples. Butter on both sides as many small slices of bread as you have apples. Fill the centre of each apple with butter. Sprinkle thickly with sugar. Bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. Baste five or six times with the juice and butter, adding more butter if necessary. Serve hot, having filled the centre of each apple with jelly.

Baked Apples--II

Peel and core several good cooking apples, and fill the hollow centres with lemon sugar (see p. 164). Put a little water in the bottom of a shallow tin. Set the apples in it close together. Bake in a quick oven, basting often with the syrup formed by the water and sugar.

Baked Bananas

Skin several bananas and cut them lengthways in half. Place on a tin. Sprinkle well with sugar, and put several small lumps of butter on them. Bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven, basting occasionally and adding a very little hot water if there is not sufficient juice with which to baste.

Flaming Peaches

Peel several peaches, which should not be too ripe. Let them simmer for five minutes in sweetened boiling water. Take them out and drain them. Sprinkle with sugar. Pour sufficient lighted kirsch-wasser over the peaches. The peaches must be kept very hot.

Grated Pine-Apple

Grate some pine-apple coarsely. To each pound of fruit add one pound of sugar. Put into a large jar and stir occasionally. After twenty-four hours put into glass jars and cover. This will keep for months.

Miroton

4 pears 1 table-spoon flour 1 table-spoon butter 1 wine-glass white wine Powdered sugar

Pare and core the pears. Cut into quarters, let them simmer for half an hour in a little water and sugar. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Add the flour. Work till perfectly smooth. Add the wine, and when hot, the pears and juice. Simmer again for half an hour. Lay the pears on rounds of fried bread. Strain the juice over them and serve hot.

*Rum Tutti Frutti