Chapter 48

signs were scratched on slips of wood from a fruit-bearing tree (including, no doubt, tile beech; cp. book, German Buch, and Buchstabe, a letter of the alphabet); the slips were thrown down promiscuously on a white cloth. whence the expert picked them up at random and by them interpreted fate. In these slips we have the origin of the Norse kefli, the Scots kaivel, which were and are still used as lots. The fishermen of north-east Scotland, when they return after a successful haul, divide the spoil into as many shares as there are men in the boat, with one share more for the boat. Each man then procures a piece of wood or stone, on which he puts a private mark. These lots are put in a heap, and an outsider is called in who throws one lot or kaivel upon each heap of fish. Each fisherman then finds his kaivel, and the heap on which it lies is his. This system of ``casting kaivels,'' as it is called, is certainly of great antiquity. But its existence will not help to prove an early knowledge of reading or writing, for in order that everything may be fair, it is clear that the umpire should not be able to identify the lot as belonging to a particular individual. It has, however, been contended that a system of primitive runes existed whence some at least of the later runes were borrowed, and the ownership marks of the Lapps, who have no knowledge of reading and writing, have been regarded as borrowed from these early Teutonic runes.21 Be this as it may, the resemblances between the runic and the Mediterranean alphabets are too great to admit of denial that it is from a Greek alphabet, whether directly or indirectly, that the runes are derived. That Wimmer postdates the introduction of the runic alphabet seems clear from the archaic forms and method of writing. It is very unlikely that a people borrowing an alphabet which was uniformly written from left to right should have used it in order to write from right to left, or boustrofedon. Hence Hempl contends22 that Wimmer's view must be discarded, and that the runes were derived about 600 B.C. from a western Greek alphabet which closely resembled the Formello alphabet (one of the ancient Chalcidian abecedaria) and the Sabellic and North Etruscan alphabets. He thus fixes the date at the same period as Isaac Taylor had done in his Greeks and Goths and The Alphabet. Taylor, however, derived the runes from the alphabet of a Greek colony on the Black Sea. Hempl's initiative was followed by Professor Gundermann of Giessen, who announced in November 180723 that he had discovered the source of the runic alphabet, the introduction of which he declares preceded the first of the phonetic changes known as the ``Teutonic sound-shifting,'' since @ = g is used for k, X = ch for g, a Theta-like symbol for d, while zd is used for st. If this view (which is identical with Taylor's) be true, we have a parallel in the Armenian alphabet, which is similarly used for a new value of the sounds. Hempl, on the other hand, contends that the sound-shifting had already taken place, and, arguing that several of the symbols have changed places (e.g. @ f and @ a, @ u and @ b, because at this time b was a bilabial spirant and not a stop), ultimately obtains an order-- a b d e f z kgw h i j @@ p r s t u l m n th o. As neither Gundermann nor Hempl has published the full evidence for his view, no definite conclusion at the moment is possible.

Ogam writing.

In one of the earliest runic records which we possess, the pendant found at Vadstena in Sweden in 1774, and dating from about A.D. 600 (see Plate) the signs are divided up into three series of eight (the twenty fourth, @, being omitted for want of room). Upon the basis of this division a system of cryptography (in the sense that the symbols are unintelligible without knowledge of the runic alphabet) was developed, wherein the series and the position within the series of the letter indicated, were each represented by straight strokes, the strokes for the series being shorter than those for the runes or the series being represented by strokes to the left the runes by strokes to the right of a medial line.24 From this system probably developed the ogam writing employed among the Celtic peoples of Britain and Ireland. The ogam inscriptions in Wales are frequently accompanied by Latin legend, and they date probably as far back as the 5th and 6th centuries A D. Hence the connexion between Celt and Teuton as regards writing must go back to a period preceding the Viking inroads of the 8th century. Taylor, however, conjectures (The Alphabet ii. p 227) that the ogams originated in Pembroke, ``where there was a very ancieni Teutonic settlement, possibly of Jutes, who as is indicated by the evidence of runic inscriptions fonnd in Kent, seem to have been the only Teutonic people of southern Britain who were acquainted with the Gothic Futhoro.'' However this may be, the ogam alphabet shows some knowledge of phonetics and some attempt to classifv the sounds accordingly. The symbols are as follows25:--

The form of the ogam alphabet made it easy to carve hastily; hence in the old sagas, when a hero is killed we had the common formula. ``His grave was dug and his stone was raised, and his name was written in ogam.'' mccording to Sophus Muller (Nordische Altertumskunde, ii. p. 264), it was from Britain that the use of runes upon gravestones was derived a use which, to judge from the number of bilingual inscriptions in Britain, the Celts derived from the Romans.

The special forms of the alphabet--the Cyrillic and the Glagolitic --which have been adopted by certain of the Slavonic peoples are both sprung directly from the Greek alphabet of the ninth century A.D , with the considerable additions rendered necessary by the greater variety of sounds in Slavonic as compared with Greek. Apart from other evidence, the use of B with the value of v, of H as well as I with the value of i, of F with the value of f and X wiih that of the Scotch ch, would be proof that the alphabet was not borrowed till long after the Greek classical period, for not till later did b, f, ch become spirants and e become identified with i. The confusion of b wirh v necessitated the invention of a new symbol b in the Cyrillic, @ in the Glagolithic for b, while new symbols were also required for the sounds or combinations of sounds z (zh), dz, st (sht), c (ts), c (ch in church), s (sh), u, i, y (u without protrusion of the lips), e (a close long e sound), for the combination of o, a and e with consonantal I (English y) and for the nasalized vowels e, a (nasalized o in pronunciation) and the combinations je and ja (English je and ja) In all these matters Glagolitic differs very little from Cyrillic; it has only one symbol for ja (ya) and e because both in this dialect were pronounced the same. It has also only one symbol for e and je (ye) for the phonetic reason that je always appears in the old ecclesiastical Slavonic, for which the alphabets were fashioned, at the beginning of words and after vowels: cp. the English use of the symbol u in unspoken and uniform. Glagolitic has a symbol for the palatalized g (@), but it is used only in the transcription of Greek words, g having become y early between vowels in the popular dialects.

Such an elaborate alphabet could hardly have been invented except by a scholar, and tradition, probably rightly, has attached the credit for its invention to Cyril (originally Constantine), who along wi1h his brother Methodius proceeded in A.D. 863 to Moravia from Constantinople, for the purpose of converting the Slavonic inhabitants to Christianity. The only question which concerns us here is which of the two alphabets was the earlier in use, and after much discussion authorities on Slavonic seem generally agreed that it was the Glagolitic (the name is derived from the Old Bulgarian, i.e old ecclesiastical Slavonic glagolu, ``word''). According to Professor Leskien (Grammatlk der altbulgariechen (altkirchenslavischen) Sprache, Heidelberg, 1909, p. xxi.), Cyril had probably made a prolonged and careful study of Slavonic before proceeding on his missionary journey, and probably in the first instance with a view to preaching the Gospel to the Slavs of Macedonia and Bulgaria, who were much nearer his own home, Thessalonica, than were those of Moravia. The Glagolitic was founded upon the ordinary Greek minuscule writing of the period, as was shown by Dr Isaac Taylor,26 though the writing of the letters separately without abbreviations and an obvious attempt at artistic effect has gradually differentiated it from Greek writing. This alphabet, which is much more difficult to read than the bolder Cyrillic founded on the Greek uncial, survived for ordinary purposes in Croatia and in the islands of the Quarnero till the 17th century. The Servians and Russians apparently always used the Cyrillic, and its advantages gradually ousted the Glagolitic elsewhere, though the service book in the old ecclesiastical language which is used by the Roman Catholic Croats is in Glagolitic.27

Phrygian.

While the Carian and Lycian were probabIy independent of the Greek in origin, so, too, at the opposite end of the Mediterranean was the Iberian. On the other hand, the Phrygian was very closely akin to the Greek in alphabet as well as in linguistic character. The Greek alphabet, with which it was most closely connected, was the Western, for 1he evidence is strongly in favour of the form @ having the value of ch, not ps, in Phrygian, as it certainly has in the Etruscan inscription found on Lemnos in 1886, which is in an alphabet practically identical.

Armenian.

To a much later era belongs the Armenian alphabet, which, according to tradition, was revealed to Bishop Mesrob in a dream. The land might have been Grecized had it not, about A.D. 387, been divided between Persia and Byzantium, the greater part falling to the former, who discouraged Greek and favoured Syriac, which the Christian Armenians did not understand. As those within Persian terrirory were forbidden to learn Greek, an Armenian Christian liierature became a necessity. Taylor contends that the alphabet is Iranian in origin, but the circumstances justify Gardthausen and Hubschmann in claiming it for Greek. That some symbols are like Persian only shows that Mesrob was not able to rid himself of the influences under which he lived.

Of the later development of Phoenician amongst Phoenician people little need be said here. It can be traced in the graffiti of the mercenaries of Psammetichus at Abu Simbel in Upper Egyrt, where Greeks, Carians and Phoenicians all cut their names upon the legs of the colossal statues. Still later it is found on the stele of Byblos, and on the sarcophagus of Eshmunazar (about 300 B.C.). The most numerous inscriptions come from the excavations in Carthage, the ancient colony of Sidon. One general feature characterizes them all, though they differ somewhat in detail. The symbols become longer and thinner; in fact, cease to be the script of monuments and become the script of a busy trading people. While the Phoenician alphabet was thus fertile in developing daughter alphabets in the West, the progress of writing was no less great in the East, first among the Semitic peoples, and through them among other peoples still more remote. The carrying of the alphabet to the Greeks by the Phoenicians at an early period affords no clue to the period when Semitic ingenuity constructed an alphabet out of a heterogeneous multitude of signs. If it be possible to assign to some of the monuments discovered in Arabia by Glaser a date not later than 1500 B.C., the origin of the alphabet and its dissemination are carried back to a much earlier period than had hitherto been supposed. Next in date amongst Semitic records of the Phoenician type to the bowl of Baal-Lebanon and the Moabite stone comes the Hebrew inscription found in the tunnel at the Pool of Siloam in 1881, which possibly dates back to the reign of Hezekiah (700 B.C.). The only other early records are seals with Hebrew inscriptions and potters' marks upon clay vessels found in Lachish and other towns.28

Like the Phoenician, these Hebrew signs are distinctly cursive in character but, as the legend on the coins of the Maccabees shows, became stereotyped for monumental use, while the Jews after the exile gradually adopted the Aramaic writing, whence the square Hebrew script is descended. The Samaritans alone stuck fast to the old Hebrew as part of their contention that they, and not the Jews, were the true Hebrews.

Aramaic

The oldest records in Aramaic were found at Sindjirli, in the north of Svria, in 1890, and date to about 800 B.C. At this epoch the Aramaic alphabet, or at any rate the alphabet of these records, is but little different from that shown upon the Moabite stone. Either two sounds are confused under one symbol, or these records represent a dialect which, like Hebrew and Assyrian, shows sh, z, and c, where the ordinary Aramaic representation is t, d and t the Arabic th, dh, and th. The Aramaic became in time by far the most important of the northern Semitic alphabets. Even while long and important documents in Assyria were still written on clay tablets, in cuneiform, a docket or precis of the contents was made upon the side in Aramaic, which thus became the alphabet of cursive writing--a fact which explains its later development. Two changes, the inception of which is early, but the completion of which belongs to the Persian period, gave the impulse which Aramaic obeyed in all its later developments. These were (a) the opening of the heads of letters, so that beth @, daleth @, and resh @ become respectively @, @, and @, while O becomes first U and ultimatelv V. In thc later development the heads tend to be reduced in size, and finally to disappear. (b) As was natural in cursive wriiing, angles tend to become rounded, and the tails of the letters, which in, Phoenician are very long are curved round in the middie of words so as to join on to the succeeding letter. These characteristics were naturally emphasized in the Aramaic writing on papyrus which, beginning about 500 B.C., during the Persian sovereignty in Egypt, lasted on there till about 200 B.C. The gradual development of this script into the square Hebrew, and the more ornamental writing of Palmyra, may be traced in the works of Berger and Lidzbarski.30

Arabic.

In the land of the Nabataeans, a people of Arabian origin, the Aramaic alphabet was employed in a form which ultimately developed into the modern Arabic alphabet. Probably the earliest example of the Aramaic script in Atrabia is the stele of Tema, in north-western Arabia, whereon is commemorated the establishment of a worship of an Aramaic diviniry. This monument, now in the Louvre, is not later than the 5th century B.C. In it the writing preserves its ancient form, the heads of the closed letters being only very slightly opened. The Nabataean inscriptions belong to a different epoch and a different style. They were first discovered by Charles Doughty in 1876-1877, who was followed between 1880 and 1884 by Huber and Euting, to whom a complete collection of these records is due. The records are fortunately dated, and belong to the period from 9 B.C. to A.D. 75. A further development can be traced in the graffiti wirh which pilgrims adorned the rocks of Mount Sinai down to the 2nd or 3rd century A.D. By the help of these inscriptions it is possible to trace the development of the modern Arabic where so many of the forms of the letters have become similar that diacritic points are essential to distinguish them, the original causes of confusion being the continuous development of cursive writing and the adoption of ligatures. Arabic writing, as known to us from documents of the early Mahommedan period, exhibits two principal types which are known respectively as the Cufic and the nashki. The former soon fell into disuse for ordinary purposes and was retained only for inscriptions, coins, &c.; the latter, which is more cursive in character, is the parent of the Arabic writing of the present day. Another form of the Aramaic alphabet, namely, the so-called Estrangela writing which was in use amongst the Christians of northern Syria, mas carried by Nestorian missionaries into Central Asia and became the ancestor of a multitude of alphabets spreading through the Turkomans as far east as Manchuria.

South Semitic.

There still remains a branch of the Semitic languages which, except for one or two of the languages belonging to it, was practically unknown till recent years. This is the South Semitic. Till the 19th century the earliest form known of this alphabet was the Ethiopian or Geez, in which Christian documents have been preserved from the early centuries of our era, and which is still used by the Abyssinians for liturgical purposes. The travels of two English naval officers, Wellsted and Cruttenden, through Yemen in southern Arabia in 1835, first called attention to the earlier monuments of Arabia. Fulgence Fresnel first established the importance of the inscriptions discovered by these Englishmen, and in 1843, when French consul at Jeddah, obtained through a French traveller, Francois Arnaud, information about other monuments of the same kind. In 1869 Joseph Halevy brought back nearly seven hundred inscriptions from Yemen, and this number has been increased from other quarters by several thousands, through the energy of several adventurous scholars, but chiefly by Eduard Glaser's repeated journeys. The south Arabian inscrip1ions to which the terms Himyaritic aud Sabaean are applied fall into two groups, the Sabaean proper and the Minaean. These are distinguished by differences in grammar and phraseology rather than in alphabet. The relative age of the Minaean and Sabaean monuments is a matter of dispute amongst Semitic scholars. Inscriptions in a kindred dialect were brought from El-Ola, in the north of the Hedjaz, by Professor Euting. To these D. H. Muller31 gave the title of Lihyanite, from the name of the tribe (Lihjan) to which they belong. Their date is supposed to be earlier than that of the Sabaean and Minaean. Minaean inscriptions were found at the same place, the Minaeans having had a trading station there. In 1893 J. Theodore Bent copied carefully at Yeha in Abyssinia a few inscriptions, some of which had been already copied in 1814 by the English traveller Salt. These inscriptions are of the greatest importance, because they demonstrate, according to D. H. Muller,32 that the Sabaeans had colonized Abyssinia as early as 1000 B.C. Other inscriptions copied by Bent at Aksum belong to the 4th century A.D. and later. Two of the earliest are written in Sabaean characters, but in the language which is known as Geez or Ethiopic. From about A.D 500 Ethiopic was written in an alphabet which according to Muller was no gradual growth but an ingenious device of a Greek scholar of this period at the court of Abyssinia. The Sabaean, like other Semitic, inscriptions are generallv written from right to left, but a few are boustrofedon; the Ethiopic is written from left to right, and makes a marked advance upon the ordinary Semitic manner of writing by indicating the vowels. This is done by varying the form of the consonant according to the vowel which follows it. The Ethiopic system is thus rather a syllabary than an alphabet. It is noticeable that the changes thus established were made upon the basis of the old Sabaean script, which in its oldest form is evidently closely related to the old Phoenician, though it would be premature to say that the Sabaean alphabet is derived from the Phoenician. It is as likely, considering the date of both, that they are equally descendants from an older source. The characteristics of the Sabaean are great squareness aud boldness in outline. It has twenty-nine symbols, whereby it is enabled to differentiate certain sounds which are not distinguished from one another in the writing of the northern Semites. As we have seen, it is a tendency in northern Semitic to open the heads of letters, and therefore it is possible that the Sabaean form for Jod @ may be older32 than the Phoenician @. Similarly if Pe means mouth, Hommel is right in contending that the Sabaean @ is more like the object than the Phoenician @, if we suppose the form, like @ or the Phoenician @ and @ for the Phoenician @ turned through an angle of 90 deg. . So also if Kaf corresponds to the Babylonian Kappu, ``hollow-hand,'' the Sabaean form @ which Hommel33 interprets as the outline of the hand with the fingers turned in and the thumb raised is a better pictograoh than the various meaningless forms of k (@, &c.).

The rock inscriptions in the wild district of Safah near Damascus which have been collected by Halevv are also written in an Arabic dialect, but, owing chiefly to their careless execution, they are to a large extent unintelligible. The character appears to be akin to the Sabaean. It has been suggesred that they were the work of Arabs who had wandered thus far from the south.

Persia.

There still remain for discussion the alphabets of the Indo-European peoples of Persia and India from which the other alphabets of the Farther East are descended. When Darius in 516 B.C. caused the great Behistun inscription to be engraved, it was the cuneiform writing, already long in use for the languages of Mesopotamia, that was adopted for this purpose. We have seen that at Babylon itself the Aramaic language and character were well known. It is probable therefore, a priori, that from the Aramaic alphabet the later writing of Persia should be developed. The conclusion is confirmed by the coins, the only records with Iranian script which go back so far; but the special form of Aramaic from which the Iranian alphabet is derived must at present be left undecided. The later developments of the Iranian alphabet are the Pahlavi and the Zend, in which the MSS. of the Avesta are written. Of Cese manuscripts none is older than the 15th century A.D. The Pahlavi is properly the alphabet of the Sassanid kings who ruled in Persia from A.D. 226 till the Arab conquest in the 7th century A.D. Under the Sassanids the old Persian worship, which had fallen with the Achaemenid dynasty in Alexander's time, and had been neglected by the subsequent Arsacid line, was revived and the remains of its liturgical literature collected. The name is, however, also applied to the alphabet on the coins of the Parthian or Arsacid dynasty, which in its beginnings was clearly under Greek influence; while later, when a knowledge of Greek had disappeared, the attempts to imitate the old legends are as grotesque as those in western Europe to copy the inscriptions on Roman coins. The relationship between the Pahlavi and the Aramaic is clearest in the records written in the ``Chaldaeo-Pahlavi'' characters; the most important of these documents is the liturgical inscription of Hadji-abad, where the Arsacid and Sassanian alphabets are found side by side. Taylor (The Alphabet, ii. p. 248 f.) regards the former as probably derived from the ``ancient alphabet of Eastern Iran, a sister alphaber of the Aramaean of the satrapies,'' while the Sassanian belongs to a later stage of Aramaic.

India.

The alphabets of India all spring from two sources: (a) the Kharosthi, (b) the Brahmi alphabet. The history of the former is clear. It was always a local alphabet, and never attained the importance of its rival. According to Buhler,34 its range lay between 69 deg. and 73 deg. 30' E. and 33 deg. to 35 deg. N., a conclusion which is not invalidated by the fact that some important modifications are found beyond this area, nor by Dr Stein's discovery of a great mass of documents in this alphabet at Khotan in Turkestan, for, according to tradition, the ancient inhabitants of Khotan were emigrants banished in the time of King Acoka from the area to which Buhler assigns this alphabet (see Stins's Preliminary Report, 1901, p. 51). Rapson35 has pointed out that both Kharosthi and Brahmi letters are found upon Persian silver sigloi, which were coined in the Punjab and belong to the period of the Achaemenid kings of Persia. As Buhler shows in detail, the Kharosthi alphabet is derived from the alphabet of the Aramaic inscriptions which date from the earlier part of the Achaemenid period. The Aramaic alphabet passed into India with the staff of subordinate officials by whom Darius organized his conquests there. The people of India already possessed their Brahmi alphabet, but had this other alphabet forced upon them in their dealings with their rulers. The Kharosthi is then the gradual development under local conditions of the Aramaic alphabet of the Persian period. As Stein's explorations show, both alphabets may be found on ooposite sides of the same piece of wood.

The history of the Brami alphabet is more difficult. In its later forms it is so unlike other alphabets that many scholars have regarded it as an invention within India itself. The discovery of earlier inscriptions than were hitherto known has, however, caused this view to be discarded, and the problem is to decide from which form of the Semitic alphabet it is derived. Taylor (The Alphabet, ii. p. 314 ff.), following Weber, argues that it comes from the Sabaeans who were carrying on trade with India as early as 1000 B.C. Even if the alphabet had not reached India till the 6th century B.C., there would be time, he contends, for the peculiarities of the Indian form of it to develop before the period when records begin. The alphabet, according to Taylor, shows no resemblance to any northern Semitic script, while its stiff, straight lines and its forms seem like the Sabaean. Buhler, on the other hand, shows from literary evidence that writing was in common use in India in the 5th, possibly in the 6th, century B.C. The oldest alphabet must have been the Brahmi lipi, which is found all over India. But he rejects Taylor's derivation of this alphabet from the Sabaean script, and contends that it is borrowed from the North Semitic. To the pedantry of the Hindu he attributes its main characteristics, viz. (a) letters made as upright as possible, and with few exceptions equal in height; (b) the majority of the letters constructed of vertical lines, with appendages attached mostly at the foot, occasionally at the foot and at the top, or (rarely) in the middle, but never at the top alone: (c) at the tops of the characters the ends of vertical lines, less frequently straight horizontal lines, still more rarely curves or the points of angles opening downwards, and quite exceptionally, in the symbol ma, two lines rising upwards. A remarkable feature of the alphabet is that the letters are hung from and do not stand upon a line, a characteristic which, as Buhler notes (Indian Studies, iii. p. 57 n.), belongs even to the most ancient MSS., and to the Asoka inscriptions of the 3rd century B.C. When these specially Indian features have been allowed for, Buhler contends that the symbols borrowed from the Semitic alphabet can be carried back to the forms of The Phoenician and Moabite alphabets. The proof deals with each symbol separarately; as might be expected of its author, it is both scholarly and ingenious, but, it must be admitted, not very convincing. Further evidence as to the early history of this alphabet must be discovered before we can definitely decide what its origin may be. That such evidence will be forthcoming there is little doubt. Even since Buhler wrote, the vase, the top of which is reproduced (see Plate), has been discovered on the borders of Nepal in a stupa where some of the relics of Buddha were kept. The inscription is of the same type as the Asoka inscriptions, but, in Buhler's opinion (Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society, xxx., 1898, p. 389), is older than Asoka's time. It reads as follows: iyam salilanidhane Budhasa bhagavate sakiyanam sukitibhatinaim sabhaginikam saputadalanam. ``This casket of relics of the blessed Buddha is the pious foundation (so Pischel, no doubt rightly, Zeitsch. d. deutsch. morg. Gesell. lvi. 158) of the Sakyas, their brothers and their sisters, together with children and wives.''

How this alphabet was modified locally, and how it spread to other Eastern lands, must be sought in the specialist works to which reference has already been made. Its extension to new and hitherto unknown languages was in 1910 in process of being rapidly demonstrated by English and German expeditions in Chinese Turkestan.

AUTHORITIES.---Owing to the rapid increase of materials, all early works are out of date. The best general accounts, though already somewhat antiquated, are: (1) The Alphabet (2 vols., with references to earlier works), by Canon Isaac Taylor (1883), reprinted from the stereotyped plates with small necessary corrections (1899); and (2) Histoire de l'ecriture dans l'antiquite, by M. Philippe Berger (Paris, 1891, 2nd ed. 1892). An excellent popular account is The Story of the Alphabet, by E. Clodd (no date, about 1900). Faulmann's Illustrierte Geschichte der Schrift (1880) is a popular work with good illustrations. For the beginnings of the alphabet, Dr A. J. Evans's Scripta Minoa (vol. i., 1900) is indispensable, whether his theories hold their ground or not. The Semitic alphabet is excellently treated by Lidzbarski in the Jewish Encyclopaedia (1901); his Nordsemitlsche Epigraphik (1898) has excellent facsimiles and tables of the alphabets, and there are many contributions to the history of the alphabet in the same writer's Ephemeris fur semitische Epigraphik (Giessen, since 1900). See also ``Writing'' (by A. A. Bevan) in the Encyclopaedia Biblica, and ``Alphabet''(by Isaac Taylor) in Hastings' Dictionary of the Bible. A very good article, now somewhat antiquated, is Schlottmann's ``Schrift und Schriftzeichen'' in Riehm's Handworterbuch des biblischen Altertums (1884, reprinted 1894). For Greek epigraphy the fullest and also most recent work is W. Larfeld's Handbuch der griechischen Epigraphik (vol. ii., 1902; vol. i., 1907) (see especially Herkunft un Alter des griechischen Alphabets, i. 330 ff.). For the history of the Greek alphabet the fundamental work was A. Kirchhoff's Studien zur Geschichte des griechischen Alphabets (4th ed., 1887).: His theories were adopted and worked out on a much larger scale in E. S. Roberts's Introduction to Greek Epigraphy, pt. i. ``The Archaic Inscriptions and the Greek Alphabet'' (1887), pt. ii. (wirh E. A. Gardner) ``The Inscriptions of Attica'' (1905); See also Salomon Reinach's Traite d' epigraphie grecque (1885). in Iwan von Muller's Handbuch der klassischen Altertumswissenschaft important articles on both Greek and Latin epigraphy and alphabets have appeared (Greek in edition 1 by G. Heinrichs, 1886; in edition 2 by W. Larfeld, 1892; Latin by Emil Hubner). See also ``Alphabet,'' by W. Deecke, in Baumeister's Denkmaler des klassischen Altertums (1884), and by Szanto (Greek) and Joh. Schmidt (italic) in Pauly's Realencyclopadie edited by Wissowa (1894). Mommsen's Die unteritalischen Dialekte (1850) is not without value even now. Other literature and references to fuller bibliographies in separate departments have been given in the notes. Elsewhere in this edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica the articles on the various languages and under the headings INSCRIPTIONS, PALAEOGRAPHY, WRITING, &c., should be consulted, while separate articles are given on each letter of the English alphabet. The writer is indebted to Dr A. J. Evans for a photograph of the Cretan linear script, and to Professors A. A. Bevan and Rapson of Cambridge, and to Mr F. W. Thomas, librarian of the India Office, for help in their respective departments of Semitic and Indian languages. (P. Gt.) 1 Breasted, History of Egypt (1906), p. 45.

2 Op. cit. p. 484.

3 Die Schrift und Sprache der alten Agypter (1907), p. 24.

4 Scripta Minoa, i. (1909), sec. 10, pp. 77 ff.

5 E. Piette, L'Anthropologie, vii. (1896) pp. 384 ff.

6 E. Piette, L'Anthropologie, xvi. (1905) pp. 8-9. The apparent inscriptions of this period are conveniently collected and figured together in Dechelette's Malnuel d'archeologie prehistorique celtique et gallo-romaine, i. (1908) p. 233.

7 Der Ursprung des alt-semitischen Alphabets aus der neu-assyrischen Keilschrift (ZDMG. xxxi. pp. 102 ff.). A still more sweeping theory of the same nature is propounded by the Rev. C. J. Ball in the Proceedings of the Society of Biblical Archaeology, xv. 1893) pp. 392 ff.

8 In an excellent summary of the different views held as to the origin of the alphabet (Journal of the American Oriental Society, vol. xxii, first half, 1901), Dr J. P. Peters agrees (pp. 191 fl.) that the best test is ihe etymology of the names of the letters. He shows that twelve of the letter-names are words wiih meanings [in the northern dialects of Semitic], all of them indicating simple objects, six of the twelve being parts of the body. The objects denoted by the other six names--ox, house, valve of a door, water, fish and mark or cross--clearly do not belong to any people in a nomadic state, but to a settled, town-abiding population. . . . Six of the letter-names are not words in any known tongue, and appear to be syllables only. Four lerter-names are triliterals, and resemble in their form Semitic words.'' As 11 of the 12 which have meanings are to be found in the Assyrian-Babylonian syllabaries, he suggests a possible Babylonian origin. Different views with regard to some of these symbols are expressed by Lidzbarski, Ephemeris fur semitische Epigraphik, ii. pp. 125 ff. (1906). The earliest tradition of the names is discussed by Noldeke in his Beitrage zur semitischen Sprachwissenschait (1904), pp. 124 fl.

9 See, for example, the tables at the end of Roberts's Introduction to Greek Epigraphy (1887); or Kirchhoff's Studien zur Geschichte des grieschischen Alphabets (4th ed. 1887); or Larfeld's Handbuch der grieschischen Epigraphik, vol. i. (1907).

10 Cp. Frankel, Corpus inscriptionum Graecarum Pelopennesi, i., No. 1607.

11 See Witton, in American Journal of Philology, xix. pp. 420 ff., and Lagercrantz, Zur griechischen Lautgeschichte (Upsala, 1898).

12. See Foat, ``Tsade and Sampi'' (Journal of Hellenic Studies, xxv. pp. 338 fl., xxvi. p. 286). A number of ingenious points often uncertain are raised by A. Gercke, ``Zur Geschichie des altesten griechischen Alphabets'' (Hermes, xli., 1906, pp. 540 ff.).

13 See especially Proceedings of the Society of Biblical Archaology for 1895, p. 40; cf. also Kalinka, Neue Jahrbucher fur Philologie, iii. (1899), p. 683. Similar forms are also found in the Safa inscriptions (South Semitic) with similar values, and Praetorius argues (Z.D.M.G. lvi., 1902, pp. 677 ff., and again lviii., 1904, pp. 725 f.) that these were somehow borrowed by Greek in the 8th century B.C., while in lxii. pp.283 ff. he argues that the reason why the Greeks borrowed Th for the aspirated t was its form, the cross in @ being regarded as T and the surrounding circle as a variety of @ an occasional form of @ the aspirate. Here also (p. 287) as in his Ursprung des kanaanaischen Alphabets, pp. 13 f., he argues that the two forms of the digamma f and @, and also the South Semitic @ = o, could all have developed from the Cyprian I = we. But proof is impossible without evidence of the intermediate steps.

14 Inscriptiones Graecae, xii., fasc. iii. Nos. 811, 1149.

15 See especially Athenische Mitteilungen, xxi. p. 426.

16 Figured in Roberts's Introduction to Greek Epigraphy, p. 65.

17 Details of the history of the individual letters will be found in separate articles.

18 It is figured most accessibly in Egbert's Introduction to the Study of Latin Inscriptions, p. 16.

19 Gardthausen ``Ursprung und Entwicklung der grieschen-lateinischen Schrift '' (Germanisch-romanische Monatsschrift, i. (1909), pp. 337 ff.) argues for a ``proto-Tyrrhenian '' alphabet from which Etruscan, Umbrian and Oscan descended as one group, and Faliscan and Latin as the other. Evidence in favour of such a position for the Latin alphabet is not forthcoming.

20 For further details of these alphabets, see Conway, The Italic Dialects, ii. pp. 458 ff. The recent discovery by Keil and Premerstein (Denkschriften der Wiener Akademie, liii., 1908) of Lydian inscriptions containing the symbol @ suggests that the old derivation of the Etruscans from Lydia may be true and that they brought this symbol with them (see article on f.) But the inscriptions are not yet deciphered, so that conclusive proof is still wanting.

21 R. M. Meyer, Paul Braune und Sievers' Beitrage, xxi. (1896), pp. 162 ff.

22 In a paper published in the volume of Philologische Studien, presented as a ``Festgabe'' to Professor Sievers in 1896, and in a second paper in the Journal of Germanic Philology, ii. (1899), pp. 370 ff.

23 See Literaturblott fur germanische und romanische Philologie for 1897, col. 429 f.

24 A species of cryptography exactly like this, based upon the `abjad' order of the Arabic letters, is still in use among the Eastern Persia is (E G. Browne, A Year amongst the Persians, p. 391 f.).

25 Cf. Rhys, Outlines of Manx Phonology, p. 73 (publications of the Manx Society, vol. xxxiii.) ; Rhys and Brynmor Jones, The Welsh People, pp 3, 502. An interpretation of the oldest ogam inscriptions is given by Whitley Stokes in Bezzenberger's Beitrage, xi (1886), p 183 ff. Besides the collections of ogams by Brash (1879) and Fergeson (1887), a new collection by Mr R. A. S. Macalister is in course of publication (Studies in Irish Epigraphy, 1897, 1902, 1907). Professor Rhys, who at one time considered runes and ogam to be connected, now thinks that ogam was the invention of a grammarian in South Wales who was familiar with Latin letters.

26 Archiv fur slavische Philologie, v. 191 ff., where the Glagolitic and the cursive Greek, the Cyrillic and the Greek uncial are set side by side in facsimile.

27 For further details and references to literature see the introduction to Leskien's Grammatik (not to be confused with his Handbuch), from which this is abbreviated.

28 These are figured most accessibly in Lidzbarski's article on the alphabet in the Jewish Encyclopaedia, vol. i. (1901) ; see also his table of symbols added to the 27th edition of Gesenius' Hebraische, Grammatik (1902).

29 See Berger's Histoire de l'ecriture dans l'antiquite, p. 252 ff.; Nordsemitische Epigraphik, p. 186 ff., from whom this summary is taken. Lidzbarski's second volume and G. A. Cooke's Textbook of North-Semitic Inscriptions (Oxford, 1903) contain the most convenient collections of Northern Semitic inscriptions for the student's purposes.

30 Muller, Epigraphische Denkmaler aus Arabien (Vienna, 1889).

31 Epigraphische Denkmaler aus Abessinien (Vienna, 1894). Praetorius (Z.D.M.G. lviii. p. 724) holds that the oldest Sabaean inscriptions may date from about 700 B.C., that the Lihyan inscriptions are at earliest of the Hellenistic period and the Safa inscriptions still later.

32 Praetorius (Z.D.M.G. lviii. p. 461 f.) attempts to trace the development of the Sabaean form from the Phoenician.

33 Hommel, Sud-arabische Chrestomathie (Munich, 1893), p. 5.

34 Buhler, Indian Studies, iii. (2nd. ed., 1898), p. 93. The account of these alphabets is drawn from this work and from the same author's Indische Palaographie in the Grundriss der indo-arischen Philologie, to which is attached an atlas of plates (Strassburg, 1896), and in which a full bibliography is given.

35 For a coin and a gild token with inscriptions see Rapson's Indian Coins (in Grundriss d. ind.-ar. Phil.), Plate I.

AL-PHASI, ISAAC (1013--1103), Jewish rabbi and codifier, known as Riph, was born near Fez in 1013 and died at Lucena in 1103. 'Al-Pinasi means the ``man of Fez'' (medieval Jews were often named after their birthplaces). He was forced to leave Fez when an old man of 75, being accused on some unknown political charge. He then settled in Spain where he was held in much esteem. His magnanimous character was illustrated by two incidents. When 'Al-phasi's opponent Isaac 'Albalia died, 'Al-pinasi received 'Albalia's son with the greatest kindness and adopted him as a son. When, again, 'Al-phasi was himself on the point of death, he recommended as his successor in the Lucena rabbinate, not his own son, but his pupil Joseph ibn Migash. The latter became the teacher of Maimonides, and thus 'Al-phasi's teaching as well as his work must have directly influenced Maimonides. 'Al-phasi's fame rests on his Talmudical Digest called Halakhoth or Decisions. The Talmud was condensed by him with a special view to practical law. He omitted all the homiletical passages, and also excluded those parts of the Talmud which deal with religious duties practicable only in Palestine. 'Al-pinasi thus occupies an important place in the development of the Spanish method of studying the Talmud. In contradistinction to the French rabbis, the Spanish sought to simplify the Talmud and free it from casuistical detail. 'Al-pinasi succeeded in producing a Digest, which became the object of close study, and led in its turn to the great Codes of Maimonides and of Joseph Qaro.

ALPHEGE [AELFHEAH], SAINT (954-1023), archbishop of Canterbury, came of a noble family, but in early life gave up everything for religion. Having assumed the monastic habit in the monastery of Deerhurst, he pased thence to Bath, where he became an anchorite and ultimately abbot, distinguishing himself by his piety and the austerity of his life. In 984 he was appointed through Dunstan's inlluence to the bishopric of Winchester, and in 1006 he succeeded AElfric as archbishop of Canterbury. At the sack of Canterbury by the Danes in 1011 AElfheah was captured and kept in prison for seven months. Refusing to pay a ransom he was barbarously murdered at Greenwich on the 19th of April 1012. He was buried in St Paul's, whence his body was removed by Canute to Canterbury with all the ceremony of a great act of state in 1023.

Lives of St. Alphege in prose (which survives) and in verse were written by command of Lanfranc by the Canterbury monk Osborn (d. c. 1090), who says that his account of the solemn translation to Canterbury in 1023 was received from the dean, (Godric, one of Alphege's own scholars.

ALPHEUS ('Alfeios; mod. Ruphia), the chief river of Peloponnesus. Strictly Ruphia is the modern name for the ancient Ladon, a tributary which rises in N.E. Elis, but the name has been given to the whole river. The Alpheus proper rises near Asea; but its passage thither by subterranean channels from the Tegean plain and its union with the Eurotas are probably mythical (see W. Loring, in Journ. Hell. Studies, xv. p. 67). It consists for the most part of a shallow and rapid stream, occupying but a small part of its broad, stony bed. It empties itself into the Ionian sea. Pliny states that in ancient times it was navigable for six Roman miles from its mouth. Alpheus was recognized in cult and myth as the chief or typical river-god in the Peloponnesus, as was Acholous in northern Greece. His waters were said to pass beneath the sea and rise again in the fountain Arethusa at Syracuse; such is the earlier version from which later mythologists and poets evolved the familiar myth of the loves of Alpheus and Arethusa.

ALPHONSE I., COUNT OF TOULOUSE (1103-1148), son of Count Raymond IV. by his third wife, Elvira of Castile, was born in 1103, in the castle of Mont-Pelerin, Tripoli. He was surnamed Jourdain on account of his being baptized in the river Jordan. His father died when he was two years old and he remained under the guardianship of his cousin, Guillaume Jourdain, count of Cerdagne (d. 1109), until he was five. He was then taken to Europe and his brother Bertrand gave him the countship of Rouergue; in his tenth year, upon Bertrand's death (1112), he succeeded to the countship of Toulouse and marquisate of Provence, but Toulouse was taken from him by William IX., count of Poitiers, in 1114. He recovered a part in 1119, but continued to fight for his possessions until about 1123. When at last successful, he was excommunicated by Pope Calixtus II. for having expelled the monks of Saint-Gilles, who had aided his enemies. He next fought for the sovereignty of Provence against Raymond Berenger I., and not till September 1125 did the war end in an amicable agreement. Under it Jourdain became absolute master of the regions lying between the Pyrenees and the Alps, Auvergne and the sea. His ascendancy was an unmixed good to the country, for during a period of fourteen years art and industry flourished. About 1134 he seized the countship of Narbonne, only restoring it to the Viscountess Ermengarde (d. 1197) in 1143. Louis VII., for some reason which has not appeared, besieged Toulouse in 1141, but without result. Next year Jourdain again incurred the displeasure of the church by siding with the rebels of Montpellier against their lord. A second time he was excommunicated; but in 1146 he took the cross at the meeting of Vezelay called by Louis VII., and in August 1147 embarked for the East. He lingered on the way in Italy and probably in Constantinople; but in 1148 he had arrived at Acre. Among his companions he had made enemies and he was destined to take no share in the crusade he had joined. He was poisoned at Caesarea, either the wife of Louis or the mother of the king of Jerusalem suggesting the draught.

See the documentary Histoire generale de Languedoc by De Vie and Vaissette, vol. iii. (Toulouse, 1872).

ALPHONSE, COUNT OF TOULOUSE AND OF POITIERS (12201271), the son of Louis VIII., king of France, and brother of St Louis, was born on the 11th of November 1220. He joined the county of Toulouse to his appanage of Poitou and Auvergne, on the death, in September 1249, of Raymond VII., whose daughter Jeanne he had married in 1237. He took the cross with his brother, St Louis, in 1248 and in 1270. In 1252, on the death of his mother, Blanche of Castile, he was joint regent with Charles of Anjou until the return of Louis IX., and took a great part in the negotiations which led to the treaties of Abbeville and of Paris (1258--1259). His main work was on his own estates. There he repaired the evils of the Albigensian war and made a first attempt at administrative centralization, thus preparing the way for union with the crown. The charter known as ``Alphonsine,'' granted to the town of Riom, became the code of public law for Auvergne. Honest and moderate, protecting the middle classes against exactions of the nobles, he exercised a happy influence upon the south, in spite of his naturally despotic character and his continual and pressing need of money. He died without heirs on his return from the 8th crusade, in Italy, probably at Savona, on the 21st of August 1271.

See B. Ledain, Histoire d'Alphonse, frere de S. Louis et du comte de Poltou sous son administration (1241-1271) (Poitou, 1869); E. Bourarie, Saint Louis et Alphonse de Poitiers (Paris, 1870); A. Molinier, Etude sur l'administration de S. Louis et d'Alphonse de Poitiers (Toulouse, 1880); and also his edition of the Correspondance adminiistrative d'Alphonse de Poitiers in the Collection de documents inedits pour servir a l'histoire de France (Paris, 1894 and 1895).

ALPHONSO, the common English spelling of Alfonso, Alonso and Alfonso, which are respectively the Galician, the Leonese and the Castilian forms of Ildefonso (Ildefonsus), the name of a saint and archbishop of Toledo in the 7th century. The name has been borne by a number of Portuguese and Spanish kings, who are distinguished collectively below.

Kings of Portugal.

Portuguese Kings.--ALPHONSO I. (Affonso Henriques), son of Henry of Burgundy, count of Portugal, and Teresa of Castile, was born at Guimaraes in 1094. He succeeded his father in 1112, and was placed under the tutelage of his mother. When he came of age, he was obliged to wrest from her by force that power which her vices and incapacity had rendered disastrous to the state. Being proclaimed sole ruler of Portugal in 1123, he defeated his mother's troops near Guimaraes, making her at the same time his prisoner. He also vanquished Alphonso Raymond of Castile, his mother's ally, and thus freed Portugal from dependence on the crown of Leon. Next turning his arms against the Moors, he obtained, on the 26th July 1139, the famous victory of Ourique, and immediately after was proclaimed king by his soldiers. He assembled the Cortes of the kingdom at Lamego, where he received the crown from the archbishop of Braganza; the assembly also declaring that Portugal was no longer a dependency of Leon. Alphonso continued to distinguish himself by his exploits against the Moors, from whom he wrested Santarem in 1146 and Lisbon in 1147. Some years later he became involved in a war that had broken out among the kings of Spain; and in 1167, being disabled during an engagement near Badajoz by a fall from his horse, he was made prisoner by the soldiers of the king of Leon, and was obliged to surrender as his r:asom almost all the conquests he had made in Galicia. In 1184, in spite of his great age, he had still sufficient energy to relieve his son Sancho, who was besieged in Santarem by the Moors. He died shortly after, in 1185. Alphonso was a man of gigantic stature, being 7 ft. high according to some authors. He is revered as a saint by the Portuguese, both on account of his personal character and as the founder of their kingdom.

ALPHONSO II., ``the Fat,'' was born in 1185, and succeeded his father, Sancho I., in 1211. He was engaged in war with the Moors and gained a victory over them at Alcacer do Sal in 1217. He also endeavoured to weaken the power of the clergy and to apply a portion of their enormous revenues to purposes of national utility. Having been excommunicated for this by the pope (Honorius III.), he promised to make amends to the church; but he died in 1223 before doing anything to fulfil his engagement. He framed a code which introduced several beneficial changes into the laws of his kingdom.

ALPHONSO III., son of Alphonso II., was born in 1210, and succeeded his brother, Sancho II., in 1248. Besides making war upon the Moors, he was, like his father, frequently embroiled with the church. In his reign Algarve became part of Portugal. He died in 1279.

ALPHONSO IV. was born in 1290, and in 1325 succeeded his father, Dionis, whose death he had hastened by his intrigues and rebellions. Hostilities with the Castilians and with the Moors occupied many years of his reign, during which he gained some successes; but by consenting to the barbarous murder of Inez de Castro, who was secretly espoused to his son Peter, he has fixed an indelible stain on his character. Enraged at this barbarous act, Peter put himself at the head of an army and devastated the whole of the country between the Douro and the Minho before he was reconciled to his father. Alphonso died almostimmediately after, on the 12th of May 1357.

ALPHONSO w., ``Africano,'' was born in 1432, and succeeded his father Edward in 1438. During his minority he was placed under the regency, first of his mother and latterly of his uncle, Dom Pedro. In 1448 he assumed the reins of government and at the same time married Isabella, Dom Pedro's daughter. In the following year, being led by what he afterwards discovered to be false representations, he declared Dom Pedro a rebel and defeated his army in a battle at Alfarrobeira, in which his uncle was slain. In 1458, and with more numerous forces in 1471, he invaded the territories of the Moors in Africa and by his successes there acquired his surname of ``the African.'' On his return to Portugal in 1475 his ambition led him into Castile, where two princesses were disputing his succession to the throne. Having been affianced to the Princess Juana, Alphonso caused himself to be proclaimed king of Castile and Leon; but in the following year he was defeated at Toro by Ferdinand, the husband of Isabella of Castile. He went to France to obtain the assistance of Louis XI., but finding himself deceived by the French monarch, he abdicated in favour of his son John. When he returned to Portugal, however, he was compelled by his son to resume the sceptre, which he continued to wield for two years longer. After that he fell into a deep melancholy and retired into a monastery at Cintra, where he died in 1481.

ALPHONSO VI., the second king of the house of Braganza, was born in 1643 and succeeded his father in 1656. In 1667 he was compelled by his wife and brother to abdicate the throne and was banished to the island of Terceira. These acts, which the vices of Alphonso had rendered necessary, were sanctioned by the Cortes in 1668. He died at Cintra in 1675.

Kings of medieval and modern Spain.

Spanish Kings.--From Alphonso I. (739-757) to Alphonso V. (999-1028) the personal history of the Spanish kings of this name is unknown and their very dates are disputed. ALPHONSO I. is said to have married Ormesinda, daughter of Pelavo, who was raised on the shield in Asturias as king of the Goths after the Arab conquest. He is also said to have been the son of Peter. duke of Cantabria. It is not improbable that he was in fact an hereditary chief of the Basques, but no contemporary records exist. His title of``the Catholic'' itself may very well have been the invention of later chronicles. ALPHONSO II. (789-842), his reputed grandson, bears the name of ``the Chaste.'' The Arab writers who speak of the Spanish kings of the north-west as the Beni-Altons, appear to recognize them as a royal stock derived from Alphonso I. The events of his reign are in reality unknown. Poets of a later generation invented the story of the secret marriage of his sister Ximena with Sancho, count of Saldana, and the feats of their son Bernardo del Carpio. Bernardo is the hero of a cantar de gesta (chanson de geste) written to please the anarchical spirit of the nobles.

The first faint glimmerings of medieval Spanish history begin with ALPHONSO III. (866--914) surnamed ``the Great.'' Of him also nothing is really known except the bare facts of his reign and of his comparative success in consolidating the kingdom known as ``of Galicia'' or ``of Oviedo'' during the weakness of the Omayyad princes of Cordova. ALPHONSO IV. (924-931) has a faint personality. He resigned the crown to his brother Ramiro and went into a religious house. A certain instability of character is revealed by the fact that he took up arms against Ramiro, having repented of his renunciation of the world. He was defeated, blinded and sent back to die in the cloister of Sahagun. It fell to ALPHONSO V. (999-1028) to begin the work of reorganizing the Christian kingdom of the north-west after a most disastrous period of civil war and Arab inroads. Enough is known of him to justify the belief that he had some of the qualities of a soldier and a statesman. His name, and that of his wife Geloria (Elvira), are associated with the grant of the first franchises of Leon. He was killed by an arrow while besieging the town of Viseu in northern Portugal, then held by the Mahommedans. (For all these kings see the article SPAIN: History.)

With ALPHONSO VI. (1065-1109) we come to a sovereign of strong personal character. Much romance has gathered round his name. In the cantar de gesta of the Cid he plays the part attributed by medieval poets to the greatest kings, to Charlemagne himself. He is alternately the oppressor and the victim of heroic and self-willed nobles--the idealized types of the patrons for whom the jongleurs and troubadours sang. (For the events of his reign see the article SPAIN: History.) He is the hero of a cantar de gesta which, like all but a very few of the early Spanish songs, like the cantar of Bernardo del Carpio and the Infantes of Lara, exists now only in the fragments incorporated in the chronicle of Alphonso the Wise or in ballad form. His flight from the monastery of Sahagnn, where his brother Sancho endeavoured to imprison him. his chivalrous friendship for his host Almamun of Toledo, caballero aunique moni, a gentleman although a Moor, the passionate loyalty of his vassal Peranzules and his brotherly love for his sister Urraca of Zamora, may owe something to the poet who took him for hero. They are the answer to the poet of the nobles who represented the king as having submitted to take a degrading oath at the hands of Ruy Diaz of Bivar (the Cid), in the church of Santa Gadea at Burgos, and as having then persecuted the brave nian who defied him. When every allowance is made, Alphonso Vl. stands out as a strong man fighting for his own hand, which in his case was the hand of the king whose interest was law and order and who was the leader of the nation in the reconquest On the Arabs he impressed himself as an enemy very fierce and astute, but as a keeper of his word. A story of Mahommedan origin, which is probably no more historical than the oath of Santa Gadea, tells of how he allowed himself to be tricked by Ibn Ammar, the favourite of Al Motamid, the king of Seville. They played chess for an extremely beautiful table and set of men, belonging to Ibn Ammar. Table and men were to go to the king if he won. If Ibn Ammar gained he was to name the stake. The latter did win and demanded that the Christian king should spare Seville. Alphonso kept his word. Whatever truth may lie behind the romantic tales of Christian and Mahommedan, we know that Alphonso represented in a remarkable way the two great influences then shaping the character and civilization of Spain. At the instigation, it is said, of his second wife. Constance of Burgundy, he brought the Cistercians into Spain, established them in Sahagun, chose a French Cistercian, Bernard, as the first archbishop of Toledo after the reconquest in 1085, married his daughters, legitimate and illegitimate, to French princes, and in every way forwarded the spread of French influence--then the greatest civilizing force in Europe. He also drew Spain nearer to the papacy, and it was his decision which established the Roman ritual in place of the old missal of Saint Isidore--the so-called Mozarabic. On the other hand he was very open to Arabic influence. He protected the Mahommedans among his subjects and struck coins with inscriptions in Arabic letters. After the death of Constance he perhaps married and he certainly lived with Zaida, said to have been a daughter of ``Benabet'' (Al Alotamid), Mahommedan king of Seville. Zaida, who became a Christian under the name of Maria or Isabel, bore him the only son among his many children, Sancho, whom Alphonso designed to be his successor, but who was slain at the battle of Ucles in 1108. Women play a great part in Alphonso's life.

[ALPHOASO I., king of Aragon, ``the Battler,'' who married Urraca, daughter of Alphonso VI. (1104-1134), is sometimes counted the VIIth in the line of the kings of Leon and Castile. A passionate fighting-man (he fought twenty-nine battles against Christian or Moor), he was married to Urraca, widow of Raymond of Burgundy, a very dissolute and passionate woman. The marriage had been arranged by Alphonso VI. in 1106 to unite the two chief Christian states against the Almoravides, and to supply them with a capable military leader. But Urraca was tenacious of her right as proprietary queen and had not learnt chastity in the polygamous household of her father. Husband and wife quarrelled with the brutality of the age and came to open war. Alphonso had the support of one section of the nobles who found their account in the confusion. Being a much better soldier than any of his opponents he gained victories at Sepalveda and Fuente de la Culebra, but his only trustworthy supporters were his Aragonese, who were not numerous enough to keep down Castile and Leon. The marriage of Alphonso and Urraca was declared null by the pope, as they were third cousins. The king quarrelled with the church, and particularly the Cistercians, almost as violently as with his wife. As he beat her, so he drove Archbishop Bernard into exile and expelled the monks of Sahagun. He was finally compelled to give way in Castile and Leon to his stepson Alphonso, son of Urraca and her first husband. The intervention of Pope Calixtus II. brought about an arrangement between the old man and the young. Alphonso the Battler won his great successes in the middle Ebro, where he expelled the Moors from Saragossa; in the great raid of 1125, when he carried away a large part of the subject Christians from Granada, and in the south-west of France, where he had rights as king of Navarre. Three years before his death he made a will leaving his kingdom to the Templars, the Hospitallers, and the Knights of the Sepulchre, which his subjects refused to carry out. He was a fierce, violent man, a soldier and nothing else, whose piety was wholly militant. Though he died in 1134 after an unsuccessful battle with the Moors at Braga, he has a great place in the reconquest.]

ALPHONSO VII., ``the Emperor'' (1126-1157), is a dignified and somewhat enigmatical figure. A vague tradition had always assigned the title of emperor to the sovereign who held Leon as the most direct representative of the Visigoth kings, who were themselves the representatives of the Roman empire. But though given in charters, and claimed by Alphonso VI. and the Battler, the title had been little more than a flourish of rhetoric. Alphonso VII. was crowned emperor in 1155 after the death of the Battler. The weakness of Aragon enabled him to make his superiority effective. He appears to have striven for the formation of a national unity, which Spain had never possessed since the fall of the V'isigoth kingdom. The elements he had to deal with could not be welded together. Alphonso was at once a patron of the church, and a protector if not a favourer of the Mahommedans, who formed a large part of his subjects. His reign ended in an unsuccessful campaign against the rising power of the Almohades. Though he was not actually defeated, his death in the pass of Muradel in the Sierra Morena, while on his way back to Toledo, occurred in circumstances which showed that no man could be what he claimed to be---``king of the men of the two religions.'' His personal character does not stand out with the emphasis of those of Alphonso VI. or the Battler. Yet he was a great king, the type and to some extent the victim of the confusions of his age--Christian in creed and ambition, but more than half oriental in his household.

ALPHONSO VIII. (1158-1214), king of Castile only, and grandson of Alphonso VII., is a great name in Spanish history, for he led the coalition of Christian princes and foreign crusaders who broke the power of the Almohades at the battle of the Navas de Tolosa in 1212. The events of his reign are dealt with under SPAIN. His personal history is that of many medieval kings. He succeeded to the throne on the death of his father, Sancho, at the age of a year and a half. Though proclaimed king, he was regarded as a mere name by the unruly nobles to whom a minority was convenient. The devotion of a squire of his household, who carried him on the pommel of his saddle to the stronghold of San Esteban de Gormaz, saved him from falling into the hands of the contending factions of Castro and Lara, or of his uncle Ferdinand of Leon, who claimed the regency. The loyalty of the town of Avila protected his youth. He was barely fifteen when he came forth to do a man's work by restoring his kingdom to order. It was only by a surprise that he recovered his capital Toledo from the hands of the Laras. His marriage with Leonora of Aquitaine, daughter of Henry II. of England, brought him under the influence of the greatest governing intellect of his time. Alphonso VIII. was the founder of the first Spanish university, the studium generale of Palencia, which, however, did not survive him.

ALPHONSO IX. (1188--1230) of Leon, first cousin of Alphonso VIII. of Castile, and numbered next to him as being a junior member of the family (see the article SPAIN for the division of the kingdom and the relationship), is said by Ibn Khaldun to have been called the ``Baboso'' or Slobberer, because he was subject to fits of rage during which he foamed at the mouth. Though he took a part in the work of the reconquest, this king is chiefly remembered by the difficulties into which his successive marriages led him with the pope. He was first married to his cousin Teresa of Portugal, who bore him two daughters, and a son who died young. The marriage was declared null by the pope, to whom Alphonso paid no attention till he was presumably tired of his wife. It cannot have been his conscience which constrained him to leave Teresa, for his next step was to marry Berengaria of Castile, who was his second cousin. For this act of contumacy the king and kingdom were placed under interdict. The pope was, however, compelled to modify his measures by the threat that if the people could not obtain the services of religion they would not support the clergy, and that heresy would spread. The king was left under interdict personally, but to that he showed himself indifferent, and he had the support of his clergy. Berengaria left him after the birth of five children, and the king then returned to Teresa, to whose daughters he left his kingdom by will.

ALPHONSO X., El Sabio, or the learned (1252-1284), is perhaps the most interesting, though he was far from being the most capable, of the Spanish kings of the middle ages. (His merits as a writer are dealt with in the article SPAIN: Literature). His scientific fame is based mainly on his encouragement of astronomy. It may be pointed out, however, that the story which represents him as boasting of his ability to make a better world than this is of late authority. If he said so, he was speaking of the Ptolemaic cosmogony as known to him through the Arabs, and his vaunt was a humorous proof of his scientific instinct. As a ruler he showed legislative capacity, and a very commendable wish to provide his kingdoms with a code of laws and a consistent judicial system. The Fuero Real was undoubtedly his work, and he began the code called the Slete Partidas, which, however, was only promulgated by his great-grandson. Unhappily for himself and for Spain, he wanted the singleness of purpose required by a ruler who would devote himself to organization, and also the combination of firmness with temper needed for dealing with his nobles. His descent from the Hohenstaufen through his mother, a daughter of the emperor Philip, gave him claims to represent the Swabian line. The choice of the German electors, after the death of Conrad IV. in 1254, misled him into wildechemes which never took effect but caused immense expense. To obtain money he debased the coinage, and then endeavoured to prevent a rise in prices by an arbitrary tariff. The little trade of his dominions was ruined, and the burghers and peasants were deeply offended. His nobles, whom he tried to cow by sporadic acts of violence, rebelled against him. His second son, Sancho, enforced his claim to be heir, in preference to the children of Ferdinand de la Cerda, the elder brother who died in Alphonso's life. Son and nobles alike supported the Moors, when he tried to unite the nation in a crusade; and when he allied himself with the rulers of Morocco they denounced him as an enemy of the faith. A reaction in his favour was beginning in his later days, but he died defeated and deserted at Seville, leaving a will by which he endeavoured to exclude Sancho and a heritage of civil war.

ALPHONSO XI. (1312-1350) is variously known among Spanish kings as the Avenger or the Implacable, and as ``he of the Rio Salado.'' The first two names he earned by the ferocity with which he repressed the disorder of the nobles after a long minority; the third by his victory over the last formidable African invasion of Spain in 1340. The chronicler who records his death prays that ``God may be merciful to him, for he was a very great king.'' The mercy was needed. Alphonso XI. never went to the insane lengths of his son Peter the Cruel, but he could be abundantly sultanesque in his methods. He killed for reasons of state without form of trial, while his open neglect of his wife, Maria of Portugal, and his ostentatious passion for Leonora de Guzman, who bore him a large family of sons, set Peter an example which he did not fail to better. It may be that his early death, during the great plague of 1350, at the siege of Gibraltar, only averted a desperate struggle with his legitimate son, though it was a misfortune in that it removed a ruler of eminent capacity, who understood his subjects well enough not to go too far.

[Four other kings of Aragon, besides the Battler, bore the name of Alphonso. All these princes held territory in the south-east of France, and had a close connexion with Italy. ALPHONSO II. of Aragon (i162--1106) was the son of Raymond Berenger, Count of Barcelona, and of Petronilla, niece of Alphonso the Battler, and daughter of Ramiro surnamed the Monk. He succeeded to the county of Barcelona in 1162 on the death of his father, at the age of eleven, and in 1164 his mother renounced her rights in Aragon in his favour. Though christened Ramon (Raymond), the favourite name of his line, he reigned as Alphonso out of a wish to please his Aragonese subjects, to whom the memory of the Battler was dear. As king of Aragon he took a share in the work of the reconquest, by helping his cousin Alohonso VIII. of Castile to conquer Cuenca, and to suppress one Pero Ruiz de Azagra, who was endeavouring to carve out a kingdom for himself in the debatable land between Christian and Mahommedan. But his double position as ruler both north and south of the eastern Pyrenees distracted his policy. In character and interests he was rather Provencal than Spanish, a favourer of the troubadours, no enemy of the Albigensian heretics, and himself a poet in the southern French dialect. ALPHONSO III. of Aragon (12851291), the insignificant son of the notable Peter III., succeeded to the Spanish and Provencal possessions of his father, but his short reign did not give him time even to marry. His inability to resist the demands of his nobles left a heritage of trouble in Aragon. By recognising their right to rebel in the articles called the Union he helped to make anarchy permanent. ALPHONSO IV. of Aragon (1327-1336) was a weak man whose reign was insignificant. ALPHONSO V. of Aragon (1416-1458), surnamed the Magnanimous, who represented the old line of the counts of Barcelona only through women, and was on his father's side descended from the Castilian house of Trastamara, is one of the most conspicuous figures of the early Renaissance. No man of his time had a larger share of the quality called by the Italians of the day ``virtue.'' By hereditary right king of Sicily, by the will of Joanna II. and his own sword king of Naples, he fought and triumphed amid the exuberant development of individuality which accompanied the revival of learning and the birth of the modern world. When a prisoner in the hands of Filipo Maria Visconti, duke of Milan, in 1435, Alphonso persuaded his ferocious and crafty captor to let him go by making it plain that it was the interest of Milan not to prevent the victory of the Aragonese party in Naples. Like a true prince of the Renaissance he favoured men of letters whom he trusted to preserve his reputation to posterity. His devotion to the classics was exceptional even in that time. He halted his army in pious respect before the birthplace of a Latin writer, carried Livy or Caesar on his campaigns with him, and his panegyrist Panormita did not think it an incredible lie to say that the king was cured of an illness by having a few pages of Quintus Curtius read to him. The classics had not refined his taste, for he was amused by setting the wandering scholars, who swarmed to his court, to abuse one another in the indescribably filthy Latin scolding matches which were then the fashion. Alphonso founded nothing, and after his conquest of Naples in 1442 ruled by his mercenary soldiers, and no less mercenary men of letters. His Spanish possessions were ruled for him by his brotherjohn. He left his conquest of Naples to his bastard son Ferdinand; his inherited lands, Sicily and Sardinia, going to his brother John who survived him.]

ALPHONSO XII. (1857-1885), king of modern Spain, son of Isabella II. and Maria Fernando Francisco de Assisi, eldest son of the duke of Cadiz, was born on the 28th of November 1857. When Queen Isabella and her husband were forced to leave Spain by the revolution of 1868 he accompanied them to Paris, and from thence he was sent to the Theresianum at Vienna to continue his studies. On the 25th of June 1870 he was recalled to Paris, where his mother abdicated in his favour, in the presence of a number of Spanish nobles who had followed the fortunes of the exiled queen. He assumed the title of Alphonso XII.; for although no king of united Spain had previously borne the name, the Spanish monarchy was regarded as continuous with the more ancient monarchy, represented by the eleven kings of Leon and Castile already referred to. Shortly afterwards he proceeded to Sandhurst to continue his military studies, and while there he issued, on the 1st of December 1874, in reply to a birthday greeting from his followers, a manifesto proclaiming himself the sole representative of the Spanish monarchy. At the end of the year, when Marshal Serrano left Madrid to take command of the northern army, General Martinez Campos, who had long been working more or less openly for the king, carried off some battalions of the central army to Sagunto, rallied to his own flag the troops sent against him, and entered Valencia in the king's name. Thereupon the president of the council resigned, and the power was transferred to the king's plenipotentiary and adviser, Canovas del Castillo. In the course of a few days the king arrived at Madrid, passing through Barcelona and Valencia, and was received everywhere with acclamation (1875). In 1876 a vigorous campaign against the Carlists, in which the young king took part, resulted in the defeat of Don Carlos and his abandonment of the struggle. Early in 1878 Alphonso married his cousin, Princess Maria de las Mercedes, daughter of the duc de Montpensier, but she died within six months of her marriage. Towards the end of the same year a young workman of Tarragona, Oliva Marcousi, fired at the king in Madrid. On the 29th of November 1879 he married a princess of Austria, Maria Christina, daughter of the Archduke Charles Ferdinand. During the honeymoon a pastrycook named Otero fired at the young sovereigns as they were driving in Madrid. The children of this marriage were Maria de las Mercedes, titular queen from the death of her father until the birth of her brother, born on the 11th of September 1880, married on the 14th of February 1901 to Prince Carlos of Bourbon, died on the 17th of October 1904; Maria Teresa, born on the 12th of November 1882, married to Prince Ferdinand of Bavaria on the 12th of January 1906; and Alphonso (see below). In 1881 the king refused to sanction the law by which the ministers were to remain in office for a fixed term of eighteen months, and upon the consequent resignation of Canovas del Castillo, he summoned Sagasta, the Liberal leader, to form a cabinet. Alphonso died of phthisis on the 24th of November 1885. Coming to the throne at such an early age, he had served no apprenticeship in the art of ruling, but he possessed great natural tact and a sound judgment ripened by the trials of exile. Benevolent and sympathetic in disposition, he won the affection of his people by fearlessly visiting the districts ravaged by cholera or devastated by earthquake in 1885. His capacity for dealing with men was considerable, and he never allowed himself to become the instrument of any particular party. In his short reign, peace was established both at home and abroad, the finances were well regulated, and the various administrative services were placed on a basis that afterwards enabled Spain to pass through the disastrous war with the United States without even the threat of a revolution.

ALPHONSO XIII. (1886- ), king of Spain, son of Alphonso XII., was born, after his father's death, on the 17th of May 1886. His mother, Queen Maria Christina, was appointed regent during his minority (see SPAIN: History.) In 1902, on attaining his 16th year, the king assumed control of the government. On the 31st of May 1906 he married Princess Victoria Eugenie Julia Ena Maria Christina of Battenberg, niece of Edward VII. of England. As the king and queen were returning from the wedding they narrowly escaped assassination in a bomb explosion, which killed and injured many bystanders and members of the royal procession. An heir to the throne was born on the 10th of May 1907, and received the name of Alphonso.

AUTHORITIES--The lives of all the early kings of Spain will be found in the general histories (see the article SPAIN: Authorities), of which the most trustworthy is the Anales de la Corona de Aragon, by Geronimo Zurita (Saragossa, 1610). See also the Chronicles of the Kings of Castile in the Biblioteca de Autores Espanoles de Riva deneyra Madrid, 1846-1880, vols. 66, 68, 70). (D.H.) ALPHONSUS A SANCTA MARIA, or ALPHONSO DE CARTAGENA (1396-1456), Spanish historian, was born at Carthagena, and succeeded his father, Paulus, as bishop of Burgos. In 1431 he was deputed by John II., king of Castile, to attend the council of Basel, in which he made himself conspicuous by his learning. He was the author of several works, the principal of which is entitled Rerum Hispanorum Romanorum imperatorum, summorum pontificum, nec non regum Francorum anacephaleosis. This is a history of Spain from the earliest times down to 1456, and was printed at Granada in 1545, and also in the Rerum Hispanicarum Scriptores aliquot, by R. Bel (Frankfort, 1579). Alphonsus died on the 12th of July 1456.

ALPINI, PROSPERO (PROSPER ALPINUS), 1553-1617, Italian physician and botanist, was born at Marostica, in the republic of Venice, on the 23rd of November 1553. In his youth he served for a time in the Milanese army, but in 1574 he went to study medicine at Padua. After taking his doctor's degree in 1578, he settled as a physician in Campo San Pietro, a small town in the Paduan territory. But his tastes were botanical, and to extend his knowledge of exotic plants he travelled to Egypt in 1580 as physician to George Emo or Hemi, the Venetian consul in Cairo. In Egypt he spent three years, and from a practice in the management of date-trees, which he observed in that country, he seems to have deduced the doctrine of the sexual difference of plants, which was adopted as the foundation of the Linnaean system. He says that ``the female date-trees or palms do not bear fruit unless the branches of the male and female plants are mixed together; or, as is generally done, unless the dust found in the male sheath or male flowers is sprinkled over the female flowers.'' On his return, he resided for some time at Genoa as physician to Andrea Doria, and in 1593 he was appointed professor of botany at Padua, where he died on the 6th of February 1617. He was succeeded in the botanical chair by his son Alpino Alpini (d. 1637). His best-known work is De Plantis Aegypti liber (Venice, 1592). His De Medicina Egyptiorum (Venice, 1591) is said to contain the first account of the coffee plant published in Europe. The genus Alpinia, belonging to the order Zingiberaceae, was named after him by Linnaeus.

ALPS, the collective name for one of the great mountain systems of Europe.

1. Position and Name.---The continent of Europe is no more than a great poninsula extending westwards from the much vaster continent of Asia, while it is itself broken up by two inland seas into several smaher peninsulas--the Mediterranean forming the Iberian, the Italian and the Greek peninsulas, while the Baltic forms that of Scandinavia and the much smaller one of Denmark. Save the last-named, all these peninsulas of Europe are essentially mountain ranges. But in height and importance the ranges that rise therein are much surpassed by a great mountain-chain, stretching from south-eastern France to the borders of Hungary, as well as between the plains of northern Italy and of southern Germany. This chain is collectively known as the Alps, and is the most important physical feature of the European continent. The Alps, however, do not present so continuous a barrier as the Himalayas, the Andes or even the Pyrenees. They are formed of numerous ranges, divided by comparatively deep valleys, which, with many local exceptions, tend towards parallelism with the general direction of the whole mass. This, between the Dauphine and the borders of Hungary, forms a broad band convex towards the north, while most of the valleys lie between the directions west to east and south-west to north-east. But in many parts deep transverse valleys intersect the prevailing direction of the ridges, and facilitate the passage of man, plants and animals, as well as of currents of air which mitigate the contrast that would otherwise be found between the climates of the opposite slopes.

The derivation of the name Alps is still very uncertain, some writers connecting it with a Celtic root alb, said to mean height, while others suggest the Latin adjective albus (white), referring to the colour of the snowy peaks. But in all parts of the great chain itself, the term Alp (or Alm in the Eastern Alps) is exclusively applied to the high mountain pastures (see ALP), and not to the peaks and ridges of the chain.

2. Limits.---These will depend on the meaning we attach to the word Alps as referring to the great mountain-chain of central Europe. If we merely desire to distinguish it from certain minor ranges (e.g. the Cevenues, the Jura, the hills of central Germany, the Carpathians, the Apennines), which are really independent ranges rather than offshoots of the main chain, the best limits are on the west (strictly speaking south), the Col d'Altare or di Cadibona (1624 ft.), leading from Turin to Savona and Genoa, and on the east the line of the railway over the Semmering Pass (3215 ft.) from Vienna to Marburg in the Mul valley, and on by Laibach to Trieste. But if we confine the meaning of the term Alps to those parts of the chain that are what is commonly called ``Alpine,', where the height is sufficient to support a considerable mass of perpetual snow, our boundaries to the west and to the east must be placed at spots other than those mentioned above. To the west the limit will then be the Col de Tenda (6145 ft.), leading from Cuneo (Coni) to Ventimigha, while on the east our line will be the route over the Radstadter Tauern (5702 ft.) and the Katschberg (5384 ft.) from Salzburg to Villach in Carinthia, and thence by Klagenfurt to Marburg and so past Laibach in Carniola on to Trieste; from Villach the direct route to Trieste would be over the Predil Pass (3813 ft.) or the Pontebba or Saifnitz Pass (2615 ft.), more to the west, but in either case this would exclude the Terglou (9400 ft.), the highest summit of the entire South-Eastern Alps, as well as its lower neighbours.

On the northern side the Alps (in whichever sense we take this term) are definitely bounded by the course of the Rhine from Basel to the Lake of Constance, the plain of Bavaria, and the low region of foot-hills that extend from Salzburg to the neighbourhood of Vienna. One result of this limit, marked out by Nature herself, is that the waters which flow down the northern slope of the Alps find their way either into the North Sea through the Rhine, or into the Black Sea by means of the Danube, not a 1lrop reaching the Baltic Sea. On the southern side the mountains extending from near Turin to near Trieste subside into the great plain of Piedmont, Lombardy and Venetia. But what properly forms the western bit of the Alps runs, from near Turin to the Col de Tenda, in a southerly direction, then bending eastwards to the Col d'Altare that divides it from the Apennines.

It should be borne in mind that the limits adopted above refer purely to the topographical aspect of the Alps as they exist at the present day. Naturalists will of course prefer other limits according as they are geologists, botanists or zoologists.

3. Climate.---It is well known that as we rise from the sea-level into the upper regions of the atmosphere the temperature decreases. The effect of mountain-chains on prevailing winds is to carry warm air belonging to the lower region into an upper zone, where it expands in volume at the cost of a proportionate loss of heat, often accompanied by the precipitation of moisture in the form of snow or rain. The position of the Alps about the centre of the European continent has profoundly modified the climate of all the surrounding regions. The accumulation of vast masses of snow, which have gradually been converted into permanent glaciers, maintains a gradation of very different climates within the narrow space that intervenes between the foot of the mountains and their upper ridges; it cools the breezes that are wafted to the plains on either side, but its most important function is to regulate the water-supply of thatlarge region which is traversed by the streams of the Alps. Nearly all the moisture that is precipitated during six or seven months is stoled upin the form of snow, and is gradually diffused in the course of the succeeding summer; even in the hottest and driest seasons the reserves accumulated during a long preceding period of years in the form of glaciers are available to maintain the regular flow of the greater streams. Nor is this all; the lakes that fill several of the main valleys on the southern side of the Alps are somewhat above the level of the plains of Lombardy and Venetia, and afford an inexhaustible supply of water, which, from a remote period, has been used for that system of irrigation to which they owe their proverbial fertility. Six regions or zones, which are best distinguished by their characteristic vegetation, are found in the Alps. It is an error to suppose that these are indicated by absolute height above the sea-level. Local conditions of exposure to the sun, protection from cold winds, or the reverse, are of primary importance in determinin8 the climate and the corresponding vegetation.

Olive region.

The great plain of Upper Italy has a winter climate colder than that of the British Islands. The olive and the characteristic shrubs of the northern coasts of the Mediterranean do not thrive in the open air, but the former valuable tree ripens its fruit in sheltered places at the foot of the mountains, and penetrates along the deeper valleys and the shores of the Italian lakes. The evergreen oak is wild on the rocks about the Lake of Garda, and lemons are cultivated on a large scale, with partial protection in winter. The olive has been known to survive severe cold when of short duration, but it cannot be cultivated with success where frosts are prolonged, or where the mean winter temperature falls below 42 deg. F.; and to produce fruit it requires a heat of at least 75 deg. F. during the day, continued through four or five months of the summer and autumn.

Vine region.

The vine is far more tolerant of cold than the olive, but to produce tolerable wine it demands, at the season of ripening, a degree of heat not much less than that needed by the more delicate tree. These conditions are satisfied in the deeper valleys of the Alps, even in the interior of the chain, and up to a considerable height on slopes exposed to the sun. The protection afforded by winter snow enables the plant to resist severe and prolonged frosts, such as would be fatal in more exposed situations. Many wild plants characteristic of the warmer parts of middle Europe are seen to flourish along with the vine. A mean summer temperature of at least 68 deg. F. is considered necessary to produce tolerable wine, but in ordinary seasons this is much exceeded in many of the great valleys of the Alps.

Mountain region, or region of deciduous trees.

Many writers take the growth of grain as the characteristic of the mountain region; but so many varieties of all the common species are in cultivation, and these have such different climatal requirements, that they do not afford a factory criterion. A more natural limit is afforded by the presence of the chief deciduous trees---oak, beech, ash and sycamore. These do not reach exactly to the same elevation, nor are they often found growing together; but their upper limit corresponds accurately enough to the change from a temperate to a colder climate that is further proved by a change in the wild herbaceous vegetation. This limit usually lies about 4000 ft. above the sea on the north side of the Alps, but on the southern slopes it often rises to 5000 ft., sometimes even to 5500 ft. It must not be supposed that this region is always marked by the presence of the characteristic trees. The interference of man has in many districts almost extirpated them, and, excepting the beech forests of the Austrian Alps, a considerable wood of deciduous trees is scarcely anywhere to be found. In many districts where such woods once existed, their place has been occupied by the Scottish pine and spruce, which suffer less from the ravages of goats, the worst enemies of tree vegetation. The mean annual temperature of this region differs little from that of the British Islands; but the climatal conditions are widely different. Here snow usually lies for several months, till it gives place to a spring and summer considerably warmer than the average of British seasons.

Subalpine region, or region of coniferous trees.

The Subalpine is the region which mainly determines the manner of life of the population of the Alps. On a rough estimate we may reckon that, of the space lying between the summits of the Alps and the low country on either side, one-quarter is available for cultivation, of which about one-half may be vineyards and corn-fields, while the remainder produces forage and grass. About another quarter is utterly barren, consisting of snow-fields, glaciers, bare rock, lakes and the beds of streams. There remains about one-half, which is divided between forest and pasture, and it is the produce of this half which mainly supports the relatively large population. For a quarter of the year the flocks and herds are fed on the upper pastures; but the true limit of the wealth of a district is the number of animals that can be supported during the long winter, and while one part of the population is engaged in tending the beasts and in making cheese and butter, the remainder is busy cutting hay and storing up winter food for the cattle. The larger villages are mostly in the mountain region, but in many parts of the Alps the villages stand in the subalpine region at heights varying from 4000 ft. to 5500 ft. above the sea, more rarely extending to about 6000 ft. The most characteristic feature of this region is the prevalence of coniferous trees, which, where they have not been artificially kept down, form vast forests that cover a large part of the surface. These play a most important part in the natural economy of the country. They protect the valleys from destructive avalanches, and, retaining the superficial soil by their roots, they mitigate the destructive effects of heavy rains. In valleys where they have been rashly cut away, and the waters pour down the slopes unchecked, every tiny rivulet becomes a raging torrent, that carries off the grassy slopes and devastates the floor of the valley, covering the soil with gravel and debris. In the pine forests of the Alps the prevailing species are the common spruce and the silver fir; on siliceous soil the larch flourishes, and surpasses every other European species in height. The Scottish pine is chiefly found at a lower level and rarely forms forests. The Siberian fir is found scattered at intervals throughout the Alps but is not common. The mughus, creeping pine, or Krummholz of the Germans, is common in the Eastern Alps, and sometimes forms on the higher mountains a distinct zone above the level of its congeners. In the Northern Alps the pine forests rarely surpass the limit of 6000 ft. above the sea, but on the south side they commonly attain 7000 ft., while the larch, Siberian fir and mughus often extend above that elevation.

Alpine region.

Throughout the Teutonic region of the Alps the word Alp is used specifically for the upper pastures where cattle are fed in summer, but this region is held to include the whole space between the uppermost limit of trees and the first appearance of permanent masses of snow. It is here that the characteristic vegetation of the Alps is developed in its full beauty and variety. Shrubs are not wanting. Three species of rhododendron vie with each other in the brilliancy of their masses of red or pink flowers; the common juniper rises higher still, along with three species of bilberry; and several dwarf willows attain nearly to the utmost limit of vegetation. The upper limit of this region coincides with the so-called limit of perpetual snow.

Glacial region.

On the higher parts of lofty mountains more snow falls in each year than is melted on the spot. A portion of this is carried away by the wind before it is consolidated; a larger portion accumulates in hollows and depressions of the surface, and is gradually converted into glacier-ice, which descends by a slow secular motion into the deeper valleys, where it goes to swell perennial streams. As on a mountain the snow does not lie in beds of uniform thickness, and some parts are more exposed to the sun and warm winds than others, we commonly find beds of snow alternating with exposed slopes covered with brilliant vegetation; and to the observer near at hand there is no appearance in the least corresponding to the term limit of perpetual snow, though the case is otherwise when a high mountain-chain is viewed from a distance. Similar conditions are repeated at many different points, so that the level at which large snow-beds show themselves along its flanks is approximately horizontal. But this holds good only so far as the conditions are similar. On the opposite sides of the same chain the exposure to the sun or to warm winds may cause a wide difference in the level of permanent snow; but in some cases the increased fall of snow on the side exposed to moist winds may more than compensate the increased influence of the sun's rays. Still, even with these reservations, the so-called line of perpetual snow is not fixed. The occurrence of favourable meteorological conditions during several successive seasons may and does increase the extent of the snow-fields, and lower the limit of seemingly permanent snow; while an opposite state of things may cause the limit to rise higher on the flanks of the mountains. Hence all attempts to fix accurately the level of pernetual snow in the Alps are fallacious, and can at the best approach only to local accuracy for a particular district. In some parts of the Alps the limit may be set at about 8000 ft. above the sea, while in others it cannot be placed much below 9500 ft. As very little snow can rest on rocks that lie at an angle exceeding 60 deg. , and this is soon removed by the wind, some steep masses of rock remain bare even near the summits of the highest peaks, but as almost every spot offering the least hold for vegetation is covered with snow, few flowering plants are seen above 11,000 ft. There is reason to think, however, that it is the want of soil rather than climatal conditions that checks the upward extension of the alpine flora. Increased direct effect of solar radiation compensates for the cold of the nights, and in the few spots where plants have been found in flower up to a height of 12,000 ft., nothing has indicated that the processes of vegetation were arrested by the severe cold which they must sometimes endure. The climate of the glacial region has often been compared to that of the polar regions, but they are widely different. Here, intense solar radiation by day, which raises the surface when dry to a temperature approaching 80 deg. F., alternates with severe frost by night. There, a sun which never sets sends feeble rays that maintain a low equable temperature, rarely rising more than a few degrees above the freezing-point. Hence the upper region of the Alps sustains a far more varied and brilliant vegetation.

4. Main Chain.---In the case of every mountain system geographers are disposed to regard, as a general rule, the watershed (or boundary dividing the waters flowing towards opposite slopes of the range) as marking the main chain, and this usage is justified in that the highest peaks often rise on or very near the watershed. Yet, as a matter of fact, several important mountain groups are situated on one or other side of the watershed of the Alps, and form almost independent ranges, being only connected with the main chain by a kind of peninsula: such are the Dauphine Alps, the Eastern and Western Graians, the entire Bernese Oberland, the Todi, Albula and Silvretta groups, the Ortler and Adamello ranges, and the Dolomites of south Tirol, not to speak of the lower Alps of the Vorarlberg, Bavaria and Salzburg. Of course each of these semi-detached ranges has a watershed of its own, like the lateral ridges that branch off from the main watershed. Thus there are lofty ranges parallel to that which forms the main watershed. The Alps, therefore, are not composed of a single range (as shown on the old maps) but of a great ``divide,'' flanked on either side by other important ranges, which, however, do not comprise such lofty peaks as the main watershed. In the following remarks we propose to follow the main watershed from one end of the Alps to the other.

Starting from the Col d'Altare or di Cadibona (west of Savona), the main chain extends first south-west, then north-west to the Col de Tenda, though nowhere rising much beyond the zone of coniferous trees. Beyond the Col de Tenda the direction is first roughly west, then north-west to the Rocher des Trois Eveques (9390 ft.), just south of the Mont Enchastraye (9695 ft.), several peaks of about 10,000 ft. rising on the watershed, though the highest of all, the Punta dell' Argentera(10,794 ft.) stands a little way to its north. From the Rocher des Trois Eveques the watershed runs due north for a long distance, though of the two loftiest peaks of this region One, the Aiguille de Chambeyron (11,155 ft.), is just to the west, and the other, the Monte Viso (12,609 ft.), is just to the east of the watershed. From the head of the Val Pellice the main chain runs north-west, and diminishes much in average height till it reaches the Mont Thabor (10,440 ft.), which forms the apex of a salient angle which the main chain here presents towards.the west. Hence the main watershed extends eastwards, culminating in the Aiguille de Scolette (11,500 ft.), but makes a great curve to the north-west and back to the south-east before rising in the Rochemelon (11,605 ft.), which may be considered as a re-entering angle in the great rampart by which Italy is guarded from its neighbours. Thence the direction taken is north as far as the eastern summit (11,693 ft.) of the Levanna, the watershed rising in a series of snowy peaks, though the loftiest point of the region, the Pointe de Charbonel (12,336 ft.), stands a little to the west. Gnce more the chain bends to the north-west, rising in several lofty peaks (the highest is the Aiguille de la Grande Sassiere, 12,323 ft.), before attaining the considerable depression of the Little St Bernard Pass. Thence for a short way the direction is north to the Col de la Soigne, and then north-east along the crest of the Mont Blanc chain, which culminates in the peak of Mont Blanc (15,782 ft.), the loftiest in the Alps. A number of high peaks crown our watershed before it attains the Mont Dolent (12,543 ft.). Thence after a short dip to the south-east, our chain takes near the Great St Bernard Pass the generally eastern direction that it maintains till it reaches Monte Rosa,whence it bends northwards, making one small dip to the east as far as the Simplon Pass. It is in the portion of the watershed between the Great St Bernard and the Simplon that the main chain maintains a greater average height than in any other part. But, though it rises in a number of lofty peaks, such as the Mont Velan ( 12,353 ft. ), the Matterhorn (14,782 ft.), the Lyskamm (14,889 ft.), the Nord End of Monte Rosa (15,132 ft.), and the Weissmies (13,226ft.), yet manyof the highest points of the region, such as the Grand Combin (14,164 ft.), the Dent Blanche (14,318 ft.), the Weisshorn (14,804 ft.), the true summit or Dufourspitze (15,217 ft.) of Monte Rosa itself, and the Dom (14,942 ft.), all rise on its northern slope and not on the main watershed. On the other hand the chain between the Great St Bernard and the Simplon sinks at barely half a dozen points below a level of 10,000 ft. The Simplon Pass corresponds to what may be called a dislocation of the main chain. Thence to the St Gotthard the divide runs north-east, all the higher summits (including the Monte Leone, 11,684 ft., and the Pizzo Rotondo, 10,489 ft.) rising on it, a curious contrast to the long stretch just described. From the St Gotthard to the Maloja the watershed between the basins of the Rhine and Po runs in an easterly direction as a whole, though making two great dips towards the south, first to near the Vogelberg (10,565 ft.) and again to near the Pizzo Gailegione (10,201 ft.), so that it presents a broken and irregular appearance. But all the loftiest peaks rise on it: Scopi (10,499 ft.), Piz Medel (10,509 ft.), the Rheinwaldhorn (11,I49 ft.), the Tambohorn (10,749 ft.) and Piz Timun (10,502 ft.).

From the Maloja Pass the main watershed dips to the south-east for a short distance, and then runs eastwards and nearly over the highest summit of the Bernina group, the Piz Bernina (13,304 ft.), to the Bernina Pass. Thence to the Reschen Scheideck Pass the main chain is ill-defined, though on it rises the Corno di Campo (10,844 ft.), beyond which it runs slightly north-east past the sources of the Adda and the Fraele Pass, sinks to form the depression of the Ofen Pass, soon hends north and rises once more in the Piz Sesvenna (10,568 ft.).

The break in the continuity of the Alpine chain marked by the deep valley, the Vintschgau, of the upper Adige (Etsch) is one of the most remarkable features in the orography of the Alps. The little Reschen lake which forms the chief source of the Adige is only 13 ft. below the Reschen Scheideck Pass (4902 ft.), and by it is but 5 m. from the Inn valley. Eastward of this pass, the main chain runs north-east to the Brenner Pass along the snowy crest of the Oetzthal and Stubai Alps, the loftiest point on it being the Weisskugel (12,291 ft., Oetzthal), for the highest summits both of the Oetzthal and of the Stubai districts, the Wildspitze (12,382 ft.) and the Zuckerhutl (11,520 ft.) stand a little to the north.

The Brenner (4495 ft.) is almost the lowest of all the great Carriage-road passes across the main chain, and has always been the chief means of communication between Germany and Italy. For some way beyond it the watershed runs eastwards over the highest crest of the Zillerthal Alps, which attains 11,559 ft. in the Hochfeiler. But, a little farther, at the Dreiherrenspitze (11,500 ft.) we have to choose between following the watershed southwards, or keeping due east along the highest crest of the Greater Tauern Alps. (a) The latter course is adopted by many geographers and has much in its favour. The eastward direction is maintained and the watershed (though not the chief Alpine watershed) continues through the Greater Tauern Alps, culminating in the Gross Venediger (12,008 ft.), for the Gross Glockner (12,461 ft.) rises to the south. Our chain bends north-east near the Radstadter Tauern Pass, and preserves that direction through the Lesser Tauern Alps to the Semmering Pass. (b) On the other hand, if from the Dreiherrenspitze we cleave to the true main watershed of the Alpine chain, we find that it dips south, passes over the Hochgall (11,287 ft.), the culminating point of the Rieserferner group, and then sinks to the Toblach Pass, but at a point a little east of the great Dolomite peak of the Drei Zinnen it hends east again, and rises in the Monte Coghans (9128 ft., the monarch of the Carnic Alps). Soon after our watershed makes a last bend to the south-east and culminates in the Terglou (9400 ft.), the highest point of the Julio Alps, though the Grintovc (8429 ft., the culminating point of the Karawankas Alps) stands more to the east. Finally our watershed turns south and ends near the great limestone plateau of the Birnbaumerwald, between Laibach and Gorz.

As might be expected, the main chain boasts of more glaciers and eternal snow than the independent or external ranges. Yet it is a curious fact that the three longest glaciers in the Alps (the Great Aletsch, 16 1/2 m., and the Unteraar and the Fiescher, each 10 m.) are all in the Bernese Oberland. In the main chain the two longest are both 9 1/4 m., the Mer de Glace at Chamonix and the Gomer at Zermatt. In the Eastern Alps the longest glacier is the Pasterze (rather over 6 1/4 m.), which is not near the true main watershed, though it clings to the slope of the Greater Tauern range, east of the Dreiherrenspitze. But the next two longest glaciers in the Eastern Alps (the Hintereis, 6 1/2 m., and the Gepatsch, 6 m.) are both in the Oetzthal Alps, and so close to the true main watershed.

The so-called alpine lakes are the sheets of water found at the foot of the Alps, on either slope, just where the rivers that form them issue into the plains. There are, however, alpine lakes higher up (e.g. the lake of Thun, and those in the Upper Engadine, in the heart of the mountains, though these are naturally smaller in extent, while the true lakes of the High Alps are represented by the glacier lakes of the Marjelensee (near the Great Aletsch glacier) and those on the northern slope of the Col de Fenetre, between Aosta and the Val de Bagnes. The most singular, and probably the loftiest, lake in the Alps is the ever-frozen tarn that forms the summit of the Roccia Viva (11,976 ft.) in the Eastern Graians.

Among the great alpine rivers we may distinguish two classes: those which spring directly from glaciers and those which rise in lakes, these being fed by eternal snows or glaciers. In the former class are the Isere, the Rhone, the Aar, the Ticino, the Tosa, the Hinter (or main) Rhine and the Linth; while in the latter class we have the Durance, the Po, the Reuss, the Vorder and middle branches of the Rhine, the Inn, the Adda, the Ogho and the Adige. The Piave and the Drave seem to be outside either class.

5. Principal Passes.--Though the Alps form a barrier they have never formed an impassable barrier, since, from the earliest days onwards, they have been traversed first, perhaps, for purposes of war or commerce, and later by pilgrims, students and tourists. The spots at which they were crossed are called passes (this word is sometimes though rarely applied to gorges only), and are the points at which the great chain sinks to form depressions, up to which deep-cut valleys lead from the plains. Hence the oldest name for such passes is Mont (still retained in cases of the Mont Cenis and the Monte Moro), for it was many ages before this term was especially applied to the peaks of the Alps, which with a few very rare exceptions (e.g. the Monte Viso was known to the Romans as Vesulus) were long simply disregarded. The native inhabitants of the Alps were naturally the first to use the alpine passes. But to the outer world these passes first became known when the Romans traversed them in order to conquer the world beyond. In the one case we have no direct knowledge (though the Romans probably selected the passes pointed out to them by the natives as the easiest), while in the other we hear almost exclusively of the passes across the main chain or the principal passes of the Alps. For obvious reasons the Romans, having once found an easy direct pass across the main chain, did not trouble to seek for harder and more devious routes. Hence the passes that can be shown to have been certainly known to them are comparatively few in number: they are, in topographical order from west to east, the Col de l'Argentiere, the Mont Genevre, the two St Bernards, the Splugen, the Septimer, the Brenner, the Radstadter Tauern, the Solkscharte, the Plocken and the Pontebba (or Saifnitz). Of these the Mont Genevre and the Brenner were the most frequented, while it will be noticed that in the Central Alps only two passes (the Splugen and the Septimer) were certainly known to the Romans. In fact the central portion of the Alps was by far the least Romanised and least known till the early middle ages. Thus the Simplon is first certainly mentioned in 1235, the St Gotthard (without name) in 1236, the Lukmanier in 965, the San Bernardino in 941; of course they may have been known before, but authentic history is silent as regards them till the dates specified. Even the Mont Cenis (from the 15th to the 19th century the favourite pass for travellers going from France to Italy) is first heard of in 756 only. In the 13th century many hitherto unknown passes came into prominence, even some of the easy glacier passes. It should always be borne in mind that in the Western and Central Alps there is but one ridge to cross, to which access is gained by a deep-cut valley, though often it would be shorter to cross a second pass in order to gain the plains, e.g. the Mont Genevre, that is most directly reached by the Col du Lautaret; and the Simplon, which is best gained by one of the lower passes over the western portion of the Bernese Oberland chain. On the other hand, in the Eastern Alps, it is generally necessary to cross three distinct ridges between the northern and southern plains, the Central ridge being the highest and most difficult. Thus the passes which crossed a single ridge, and did not involve too great a detour through a long valley of approach, became the most important and the most popular, e.g. the Mont Cenis, ihe Great St Bernard, the St Gotthard, the Septimer and the Brenner. As time went on the travellers (with whatever object) who used the great alpine passes could not put up any longer with the bad old mule paths. A few passes (e.g. the Semmering, the Brenner, the Tenda and the Arlberg) can boast of carriage roads constructed before 1800, while those over the Umbrail and the Great St Bernard were not completed till the early years of the 20th century. Most of the carriage roads across the great alpine passes were thus constructed in the 19th century (particularly its first half), largely owing to the impetus given by Napoleon. As late as 1905, the highest pass over the main chain that had a carriage road was the Great St Bernard (8111 ft.), but three still higher passes over side ridges have roads---the Stelvio (9055 ft.), the Col du Galibier (8721 ft.), in the Dauphine Alps, and the Umbrail Pass (8242 ft.). Still more recently the main alpine chain has been subjected to the further indignity of having railway lines carried over it or through it---the Brenner and the Pontebba lines being cases of the former, and the Col de Tenda, the Mont Cenis (though the tunnel is really 17 m. to the west), the Simplon and the St Gotthard, not to speak of the side passes of the Arlberg, Albula and Pyhrn of the latter. There are also schemes (more or less advanced) for piercing the Splugen and the Hohe Tauern, both on the main ridge, and the Lotschen Pass, on one of the external ranges. The numerous mountain railways, chiefly in Switzerland, up various peaks (e.g. the Rigi and Pilatus) and over various side passes (e.g. the Brunig and the Little Scheidegg) do not concern us here.

6. Divisions.---The Alps, within the limits indicated under (2) above, form a great range, consisting of a main chain, with ramifications, and of several parallel minor chains. They thus form a single connected whole as contrasted with the plains at their base, and nature has made no breaks therein, save at the spots where they sink to comparatively low depressions or passes. But for the sake of practical convenience it has long been usual to select certain of the best marked of these passes to serve as limits within the range, whether to distinguish several great divisions from each other, or to further break up each of these great divisions into smaller groups. As these divisions, great or small, are so to speak artificial, several systems have been proposed according to which the Alps may be divided. We give below that which seems to us to be the most satisfactory (based very largely on personal acquaintance with most parts of the range), considering, as in the case of the limits of the chain, only its topographical aspect, as it exists at the present day, while leaving it to geologists, botanists and zoologists to elaborate special divisions as required by these various sciences. Our selected divisions relate only to the High Alps between the Col de Tenda and the route over the Radstadter Tauern. while in each of the 18 subdivisions the less elevated outlying peaks are regarded as appendages of the higher group within the topographical limits of which they rise. No attempt, of course, has been made to give a complete catalogue of the peaks and passes of the Alps, while in the case of the peaks the culminating point of a lower halfdetached group has been included rather than the loftier spurs of the higher and main group; in the case of the passes, the villages or valleys they connect have been indicated, and also the general character of the route over each pass.

As regards the main divisions, three are generally distinguished; the Western Alps (chiefly French and Italian, with a small bit of the Swiss Valais) being held to extend from the Col de Tenda to the Simplon Pass, the Central Alps (all but wholly Swiss and Italian) thence to the Reschen Scheideck Pass, and the Eastern Alps (wholly Austrian and Italian, save the small Bavarian bit at the northswest angle) thence to the Radstadter Tauern ro:ite, with a bend outwards towards the south-east, as explained under (2) in order to include the higher summits of the SouthEastern Alps. Strictly speaking, we should follow the Reschen Scheideck route down the Adigevalley, but as this would include in the Central Alps the Ortler and some other of the highest Tirolese summits, it is best (remembering the artificial character of the division) to draw a line from Mals southwards either over the Umbrail Pass (the old historical pass) or the Stelvio (wellknown only since the carriage road was built over it in the first quarter of the 19th century) to the head of the Valtellina, and then over the Aprica Pass (as the Bergamasque Alps properly belong to the Central Alps) to the Oglio valley or the Val Camonica, and down that valley to the Lake of Iseo and Brescid.

Assuming these three main divisions, we must now consider in detail the 18 sub-divisions which we distinguish; the first 5 forming the Western Alps, the next 7 the Central Alps, and the rest the Eastern Alps, the heights throughout being, of course, given in English feet and representing the latest measurements.

I. WESTERN ALPS

1. Maritime Alps (from the Col de Tenda to the Col de l'Argentiere). Punta dell' Argentera . . . . . 10,794 Mont Tinibras. . . . . . . . . . .9,948 Cima dei Golas. . . . . . . . . 10,286 Mont Enchastraye . . . . . . . . .9,695 Monte Matto . . . . . . . . . . 10,128 Monte Bego . . . . . . . . . . . .9,426 Mont Pelat. . . . . . . . . . . 10,017 Mont Monnier . . . . . . . . . . .9,246 Mont Clapier. . . . . . . . . . 9,994 Rocca dell' Abisso . . . . . . . .9,039

Chief passes of the Maritime Alps.

Passo del Pagarin (Vosubie Valley to Valdieri), snow . . . . . . . . . . .9,236 Col di Fremamorta (Tinee Valley to the Baths of Valdieri), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,688 Bassa di Druos (same to same), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,629 Passo di Collalunga (Tinee Valley to Vinadio), bridle path. . . . . . .8,531 Coll dell' Agnel (Tenda to Yaldieri), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,426 Col della Ciriegia (St Martin Vesubie to the Baths of Valdieri), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,370 Col des Granges Communes (St Etienne de Tinee to Barcelonnette), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,242 Col de Pourriac (Tinee Valley to Argentera), foot path. . . . . . . . .8,222 Col della Finestre (St Martin de Vesubie to Valdieri), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,107 Col di Guercia (Tinee Valley t0 Vinadio), foot path . . . . . . . . . .8,042 Col della Lombarda (same to same), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,858 Col de la Cayolle (Var Valley to Barcelonnette), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,717 Col di Santa Anna (Tinee Valley to Vinadio), bridle path. . . . . . . .7,605 Col del Sabbione (Tenda to Valdieri), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,428 Col d'Allos or de Valgelaye (Verdon Valley to Barcelonnette), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,382 Col de l'Argentiere (Barcelonnette to Cuneo), carriage road . . . . . .6,545 Col de Tenda (Tenda to Cuneo), carriage road, railway beneath. . . . . . .6,145

2. Cottian Alps (from the Col de l'Argentiere to the Mont Cenis and westwards to the Col du Galibier).

Chief Peaks of the Cottian Alps.

Monte Viso . . . . . . . . . . 12,609 Dents d'Ambin. . . . . . . . . . 11,096 Viso di Vallante . . . . . . . 12,048 Mont d'Ambin . . . . . . . . . . 11,080 Aiguille de Scolette . . . . . 11,500 Pointe de la Font Sancte . . . . 11,057 Aiguille de Chambeyron . . . . 11,155 Punta Ferrant. . . . . . . . . . 11,037 Grand Rubren . . . . . . . . . 11,142 Visolotto. . . . . . . . . . . . 11,001 Bree de Chambeyron . . . . . . 11,116 Rochebrune . . . . . . . . . . . 10,906 Rognosa d'Etache . . . . . . .11,106 Punta Sommeiller . . . . . . . . 10,896 Bric Froid . . . . . . . . . . 10,860 Tete des Toillies . . . . . . 10,430 Grand Glavza . . . . . . . . . 10,781 Monte Granero. . . . . . . . . . 10,401 Rognosa di Sestrieres . . . 10,758 Mont Chaberton . . . . . . . . . 10,286 Panestrel. . . . . . . . . . . 10,673 Tete de Moyse . . . . . . . . 10,204 Roche du Grand Galibier. . . . 10,637 Monte Meidassa . . . . . . . . . 10,187 Peou Roc. . . . . . . . . . 10,601 Pelvo d'Elva . . . . . . . . . . 10,053 Pic du Pelvat. . . . . . . . . 10,558 Mont Politri . . . . . . . . . . 10,009 Pointe Haute de Mary . . . . . 10,539 Mont Nlbergian . . . . . . . . . .9,974 Pic du Thabor. . . . . . . . . 10,316 Brio Bouchet . . . . . . . . . . .9,853 Mont Thabor. . . . . . . . . . 10,440 Punta Cournour . . . . . . . . . .9,410 Pointe des Cerces. . . . . . . 10,434

Chief Passes in the Cottian Alps.

Col Sommeiller (Bardonneche to Bramans), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,718 Col de la Traversette (Crissolo to Aliries), mainly bridle path beneath pass tunnel made in 1478-1480 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,679 Col d'Ambin (Exilles to Bramans), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,364 Col de St Veran (Val Varaita to the Queyras Valley), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,331 Col n'Etache (Bardonneche to Bramans), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .9,144 Col dell' Agnello (Val Varaita to the Queyras Valley), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,003 Col Girardin (Ubaye Valley to the Queyras Valley), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,855 Col de Sautron (Val Maira to Barcelonnette), bridle path . . . . . . . . .8,823 Col de Longet (Ubaye Valley to Val Varaita), bridle path . . . . . . . . .8,767 Col de Mary or de M iurin ( Ubaye Valley to Val Maira), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,708 Col d'Abries or de Prali (Perosa to Abries), bridle path . . . . . .8,695 Col de la Roue (Bardonneche to Modane), bridle path . . . . . . . . . .8,419 Col de Freius (same to same), carriage road, beneath which Col de Clapier (Bramans to Susa), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,173 Col d'Izouard (Briancon to the Queyras Valley), carriage path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,835 Col de la Croix (Torre Pellice to Abries); bridle path. . . . . . . . .7,576 Petit Mont Cenis (Bramans to the Mont Cenis Plateau), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,166 Col de Vars (Ubaye Valley to the Queyras Valley), carriage path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,939 Mont Cenis (Lanslebourg to Susa), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,893 Col de Sestrieres (Pignerol to Cesanne), carriage road . . . . . . .6,631 Mont Genevre (Briancon to Cesanne), carriage road . . . . . . . .6,083 Col des Echelles de Planpipinet (Briangon to Bardonneche), partly carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,774

3. Dauphine Alps (from the Col du Galibier, westwards and southwards).

Chief Peaks of the Dauphine Alps.

Pointe des Ecrins . . . . . 13,462 Pic Felix Neff. . . . . . . . 10,571 Meije. . . . . . . . . . . . . 13,081 Vieux Chaillol . . . . . . . . . 10,378 Ailefroide . . . . . . . . . . 12,989 Tete de Vautisse. . . . . . . 10,375 Mont Pelvoux . . . . . . . . . 12,973 Grand Pinier . . . . . . . . . . 10,237 Pic Sans Nom . . . . . . . . . 12,845 Pic de Parieres . . . . . . . 10,007 Pic Gaspard. . . . . . . . . . 12,730 Mourre Froid . . . . . . . . . . .9,830 Pic Coolidge . . . . . . . . . 12,323 Belledonne (highest) . . . . . . .9,781 Grande Ruine . . . . . . . . . 12,317 Rocherblanc (Septlaux) . . . . . .9,617 Rateau. . . . . . . . . . . 12,317 Taillefer. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,387 Montagne des Agneaux . . . . . 12,oo8 Pic du Frene. . . . . . . . . .9,219 Les Bans . . . . . . . . . . . 11,979 Tete de l'Obiou . . . . . . . .9,164 Sommet des Rouies. . . . . . . 11,923 Grand Ferrand. . . . . . . . . . .9,059 Aiguille du Plat . . . . . . . 11,818 Pic de Bure (Aurouse). . . . . . .8,898 Pic d'Olan. . . . . . . . . . 11,735 Grand Veymont. . . . . . . . . . .7,697 Pic Bonvoisin. . . . . . . . . 11,680 Mont Aiguille. . . . . . . . . . .6,880 Aiguilles d'Arves (highest Chamechaude. . . . . . . . . . . .6,847 point). . . . . . . . . . . 11,529 Dent de Crolles. . . . . . . . . .6,779 Grandes Rousses. . . . . . . . 11,395 Grand Sore . . . . . . . . . . . .6,670 Roche de la Muzelle. . . . . . 11,349 Mont Granier . . . . . . . . . . .6,358 Sirac. . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,280 Dent du Chat . . . . . . . . . . .4,593

Chief Passes of the Dauphine Alps.

Col de la Lauze (St Christophe to La Grave), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . 11,625 Col des Avalanches (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow. . . . . . . . . . 11,520 Col de la Casse Deserte (La Berarde to La Grave), snow . . . . . . 11,516 Col Emile Pic (La Grave to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,490 Col des Ecrins (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . 11,205 Col du Glacier Blanc (La Grave to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . . 10,854 Col du Sele (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow . . . . . . . . . . 10,834 Breche de la Meile (La Berarde to la Grave), snow. . . . . . . . . 10,827 Col de la Temple (La Berarde to Vallouise), snow. . . . . . . . . . . 10,772 Col des Aiguilles d'Arves (Valloire to St Jean d'Arvesl,snow . . . . . . 10,335 Col du Says (La Berarde to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . 10,289 Col du Clot des Cavales (La Berarde to La Grave), snow. . . . . . . . 10,263 Col du Loup du Valgaudemar (Vallouise to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,210 Col Lombard (La Grave to St Jean d'Arves), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,171 Breche des Grandes Rousses (Allemont to Clavans), snow. . . . . . . . 10,171 Col du Sellar (Vallouise to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . . 10,063 Col de la Muande (St Christophe to the Val Gaudemar), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,037 Col des Quirlies (St Jean d'Arves to Clavans), snow. . . . . . . . . . . .9,679 Col du Goleon (La Grave to Valloire), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . .9,449 Pas de la Cavale (Vallouise to Champoleon), carriage road . . . . . . .8,990 Col d'Orcieres (Dormillouse to Orcieres), bridle path. . . . . . . .8,859 Col de l'Infernet (La Grave to St lean d'Arves), foot path . . . . . . . .8,826 Col du Galibier (Lautaret Hospice to St Michel de Maurienne), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,721 Breche de Valsenestre (Bourg d'Oisans to Valsenestre), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,642 Col de Vallonpierre (Val Gaudemar to Champoleon), foot 8,596 path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,596 Col de Val Estrete (same to same), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,596 Col de Vaurze (Val Gaudemar to Val souflrey), foot path. . . . . . . . . .8,531 Col de Martignare (La Grave to St lean d'Arves), foot path . . . . . . . .8,531 Col des Tourettes (Orcieres to Chateauroux), bridle path . . . . . .8,465 Col de la Muzelle (St Christophe to Valsenestre), foot path. . . . . . . .8,202 Col de l'Eychauda (Vallouise to Monestier), bridle path. . . . . . . . . .7,970 Col d'Arsine (La Grave to Monestier), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,874 Col des Pres Nouveaux (Le Frenev to St Jean d'Arves), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,523 Col dessept Lanx (Allevard to Bourg d'Oisans), bridle path . . . . . . . .7,166 Col du Lautaret (Briancon to Bourg d'Oisans), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,808 Col de la Croix de Fer (Bourg d'Oisans to St Jean d'Arves), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,765 Col du Glandon (Bourg d'Oisans to La Chambre), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,401 Col de l'Alpe de Venose (Venose to Le Freney), bridle path . . . . .5,446 Col d'Ornon (Bourg d'Oisans to La Mure), carrigae road . . . . . . . . . .4,462 Col Bayard (La Mure to Gap), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,088 Col de la Croix Haute (Grenoble to Veynes and Gap), railway line over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3,829

4. Graian Alps (from the Mont Cenis to the Little St Bernard Pass). These are usually divided into three groups, the Central (the watershed between the two passes named), the Western or French, and the Eastern or Italian; in the following lists the initials ``C,'' ``W,'' and ``E'' show to which group each peak and pass belongs.

Chief Peaks of the Graian Alps.

Grand Paradis (E). . . . . . . 13,324 Grande Aiguille Rousse Grivola (E). . . . . . . . . . 13,022 (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,424 Oirande Casse (W). . . . . . . 12,668 Granta Parey (C) . . . . . . . . 11,395 Mont Pourri (W). . . . . . . . 12,428 Roc du Mulinet (C) . . . . . . . 11,382 Mont Herbetet (E). . . . . . . 12,396 Aiguille Pers (C). . . . . . . . 11,323 Pointe de Charbonel (C). . . . 12,336 Pointe de la Sana (W). . . . . . 11,319 Aiguille de la Grande Cima dell' Auille (C). . . . . . 11,306 Sassiere (C) . . . . . 12,325 Pointe de l.Lchelle (W). . . . . 11,260 Dent Parrachee (W). . . . . 12,179 Punta Foura (E) . . . . . . . 11,188 Tour du Grand St Pierre Pointe des Sengies (E) . . . . . 11,182 (C) . . . . . . . . . . . 11,424 Pointe de la Gliere (W) . . . 11,109 Uja di Ciamareila (C). . . . . 12,061 Pointe de la Galise (C). . . . . 10,975 Cima di Charforon (E). . . . . 12,025 Pointe de la Traversiere Grande Motte (W) . . . . . . . 12,018 (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,962 Albaron (C). . . . . . . . . . 12,915 Pointe de Mean Martin Roccia Viva (E). . . . . . . . 11,976 (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,949 Levanna (C). . . . . . . . . . 11,943 Punta Lavina (E) . . . . . . . . 10,854 Bessanese (C). . . . . . . . . 11,917 Ormelune (C) . . . . . . . . . . 10,77i Punta di Gaij (E). . . . . . . 11,887 Roche Chevriere (W) . . . . . 10,768 Dome de l'Arpont (W) . . . . . 11,874 Signaldu Montlseran (C). . . . . 10,634 Pointe de Ronco (C). . . . . . 11,871 Pointedela Rechasse (W) 10,575 Bec de l'lnvergnan (C) . . . . 11,838 Crand Assaly (C) . . . . . . . . .10,44 Tsanteleina (C). . . . . . . . 11,831 Roisebanque (E). . . . . . . . . 10,381 Dome de Chasseforet (W). 11,802 Bocca di Nona (E). . . . . . . . 10,309 Croce Rossa (C). . . . . . . . 11,703 Torre d'Ovarda (C) . . . . . . . 10,089 Aiguille de Peclot (W). . . 11,700 Pointe du Pousset (E). . . . . . .9,994 Mont Einilius (E). . . . . . . 11,677 Dome de Val d'Isere (C) . . . .9,951 Punta d'Arnas (C). . . . . . . 11,615 UJa di Mondrone (C). . . . . . . .9,725 Aiguille de Polset (W) . . . . 11,608 Bellagarda (C) . . . . . . . . . .9,643 Rochemelon (C) . . . . . . . . 11,605 Monte Marzo (E). . . . . . . . . .9,023 Mont Chalanson(C). . . . . . . 11,582 Petit Mont Blanc de Tersiva (E). . . . . . . . . . 11,526 Pralognan (W).. . . . . . . .8,809 Grande Traversiere (C). . . 11,467 Mont Jouvet (W). . . . . . . . . .8,409 Tete du Rutor (C) . . . . . 11,438 Monte Civrari (C). . . . . . . . .7,553

Chief Passes of the Graian Alps.

Col de la Grande Rousse (Rhemes Valley to the Val Grisanche), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,483 Col de Gebroulaz (Arc Valley to Mofitiers Tarentaise), snow (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,385 Col de Monel (Cogne to Locana), snow (E) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,247 Col du Grand Paradis (Ceresole to the Val Savaranche), snow (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,988 Col du Charforon (same to same), snow (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,929 Col de Teleccio (Cogne to Locana), snow (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,913 Col de Lauzon (Cogne to the Val Savaranche), bridle path (E) . . . . . . 10,831 Col du Bouquetin (Bonneval to Val d'Isere), snow (C). . . . . . . . . 10,827 Col de St Grat (Val Grisanche to La Thuille), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . 10,827 Col de l'Herbetet (Cogne to the Val Savaranche), snow (E). . . . . . . . 10,686 Col du Collerin (Bessans to Balme), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,506 Col du Grand Etret (Ceresole to the Val Savaranche), snow (E). . . . . . 10,361 Col de Bassac (Rhemes Valley to the Val Grisanche), snow (C). . . . . 10,345 Col du Carro (Bonneval to Ceresole), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,302 Col d'Arbole (Comboe to Brissogne), snow (E) . . . . . . . . . . . 10,292 Col de la Goletta (Va Id'Isere to the Rhemes Valley), snow (C) . . 10,237 Col de Rhemes (same to same), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,174 Col de la Grande Casse (Pralognan to the Premou Glen), snow (W) . . . 10,171 Col de Sea (Bonneval to Forno Alpi Graie), snow (C). . . . . . . . . . . 10,115 Col de l'Autaret (Bessans to Usseglio), foot path (C). . . . . . . . . . 10,073 Col de Girard (Bonneval to Forno Alpi Graie), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . .9,987 Col Rosset (Val Savaranche to the Rhemes Valley), bridle path (C) . . .9,922 Col d'Arnas (Bessans to Balme), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,889 Col de la Galise (Ceresole to Val d'Isere), snow (C). . . . . . . . . .9,836 Col de Sort (Val Savaranche to the Rhemes Valley), partly bridle path .9,735 Quecees de Tignes (Val d'Isere to Termignon), snow (W) . . . . . . .9,646 Col della Nouva (Cogne to Pont Canavese), partly bridle path (E) . . . . .9,623 Col de Garin (Aosta to Cogne), foot path (E) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,411 Collarin d'Arnas (Balme to Usseglio), snow (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,351 Finestra del Torrent (Rhemes Valley to the Val Grisanche), foot path. .9,341 Fenetre de Champorcher (Cogne to Champorcher), bridle path (E). . . . .9,311 Col de Vaudet (Isere Valley to the Val Grisanche), foot path (C). . . .9,305 Col de Bardoney (Cogne to Pont Canavese), snow (E) . . . . . . . . . . . .9,295 Col de Chaviere (Modane to Pralognan), foot path (W). . . . . . . . . .9,206 Col de la Leisse (Tignes to Termignon), snow (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,121 Col du Mont Iseran (Bonneval to Val d'Isere), bridle path (C) . . . . .9,085 Ghicet di Sea (Balme to Forno Alpi Graie), foot path (C) . . . . . . . . .8,973 Col de la Sachette (Tignes to Bourg St Maurice), foot path (W) . . . . . .8,954 Col du Palet (Tignes to Moutiers Tarentaise or Bourg St Maurice), bridle path (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,721 Col du Mont (Ste Foy to the Val Grisanche), bridle path (C). . . . . . . .8,681 Col de la Croix de Nivolet (Ceresole to the Val Savaranche), bridle path (E). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,665 Col della Crocetta (Ceresole to Forno Alpi Graie), bridle path (C) . . . .8,649 Col de la Platiere (St Jean de Maurienne to Moutiers Tarentaise), partly bridle path (W). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,531 Col de la Vanoise (Pralognan to Termignon), bridle path (W). . . . . . . .8,291 Col des Encombres (St Michel de Maurienne to Moutiers Tarentaise), bridle path (W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,668 Little St Bernard (Aosta to Moutiers Tarentaise), carriage road (C) . .7,179 Col de la Madeleine (La Chambre to Moutiers Tarentaise), bridle path (W). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,509

5. Pennine Alps (from the Little St Bernard to the Simplon Pass). This range contains all the highest peaks in the Alps, save the Finsteraarhorn (14,026) in the Bernese Oberland.

Chief Peaks of the Pennine Alps.

Mont Blanc . . . . . . . . . . 15,782 Mont Blanc de Seilon . . . . . . 12,700 Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze). . . 15,217 Aiguille du Midi . . . . . . . . 12,609 Tour Noir. . . . . . . . . . . . 12,586 Nord End (Monte Rosa). . . . . 15,132 Aiguille des Glaciers. . . . . . 12,579 Dom (Mischabelhorner) . . . 14,942 Mont Dolent. . . . . . . . . . . 12,543 Lyskamm. . . . . . . . . . . . 14,889 Aiguille du Chardonnet . . . . . 12,540 Weisshorn. . . . . . . . . . . 14,804 Cima di Jazzi. . . . . . . . . . 12,527 Matterhorn . . . . . . . . . . 14,782 Balfrin. . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,474 Taschhorn . . . . . . . . . 14,758 Pigne d'Arolla . . . . . . . . . 12,471 Mont Maudit. . . . . . . . . . 14,669 Mont Velan. . . . . . . . . . 12,353 Dent Blanche . . . . . . . . . 14,318 Aiguille du Dru. . . . . . . . . 12,320 Dome du Gouter . . . . . 14,210 Tete Blanche. . . . . . . . . 12,304 Grand Combin . . . . . . . . . 14,164 L'Eveque. . . . . . . . . . . 12,264 Castor . . . . . . . . . . . . 13,879 Mont Pleureur. . . . . . . . . . 12,159 Zinal Rothhorn . . . . . . . . 13,856 Dome de Miage. . . . . . . . . . 12,100 Alphubel . . . . . . . . . . . 13,803 Lo Besso . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,058 Grandes Jorasses . . . . . . . 13,797 Aiguille de la Za. . . . . . . . 12,051 Rimpfischhorn. . . . . . . . . 13,790 Mont Collon. . . . . . . . . . . 11,956 Strahlhorn . . . . . . . . . . 13,751 Diablons . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,828 Dent d'Herens . . . . . . . 13,715 Aiguille de Tour . . . . . . . . 11,615 Zermatt Breithorn. . . . . . . 13,685 Mont Gele . . . . . . . . . . 11,539 Aiguille Verte . . . . . . . . 13,541 Bec de Luseney . . . . . . . . . 11,503 Ober Gabelhorn . . . . . . . . 13,364 Aiguille de Grepon. . . . . . 11,489 Aiguille de Bionnassay . . . . 13,341 Chateau des Dames . . . . . . 11,447 Allalinhorn. . . . . . . . . . 13,236 Aiguille des Charmoz . . . . . . 11,293 Weissmies . . . . . . . . . . 13,226 Aiguille du Tacul. . . . . . . . 11,280 Aiguille du Geant . . . . . 13,170 Grand Tournalin. . . . . . . . . 11,086 Laquinhorn . . . . . . . . . . 13,140 Pointe de Rosa Blanche . . . . . 10,985 Rossbodenhorn. . . . . . . . . 13,128 Mont Avril . . . . . . . . . . . 10,962 Grand Cornier. . . . . . . . . 13,022 Grande Rochere. . . . . . . . 10,913 Aiguille de Trelatete. . 12,832 Corno Bianco . . . . . . . . . . 10,893 Aiguille d'Argentiere . . . 12,819 Grauhaupt. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,876 Ruinette . . . . . . . . . . . 12,727 Pointe d'Orny. . . . . . . . . . 10,742 Aiguille de Triolet. . . . . . 12,717 Dent du Midi . . . . . . . . . . 10,696 Mont Favre . . . . . . . . . . 10,693 Tagliaferro. . . . . . . . . . . .9,725 Sasseneire . . . . . . . . . . 10,693 Riffelhorn . . . . . . . . . . . .9,617 Grand Golliaz. . . . . . . . . 10,630 Pointe Percee du Reposoir . . .9,029 Tour Sallieres. . . . . . . 10,588 Crammont . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,980 Pizzo Bianco . . . . . . . . . 10,552 Pointe des Fours . . . . . . . . .8,921 Latelhorn. . . . . . . . . . . 10,523 Pointe du Colloney . . . . . . . .8,832 Schwarzhorn (Augstbord). . . . 10,512 Catogne. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,527 Gornergrat . . . . . . . . . . 10,289 Monte Bo. . . . . . . . . . . .8,386 Pointe de Lechaud . . . . . 10,260 Mont Joly. . . . . . . . . . . . .8,291 Buet . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,201 Brevent . . . . . . . . . . . .8,284 Mont Ruan. . . . . . . . . . . 10,099 Pointe de Salles . . . . . . . . .8,183 Mont Neri . . . . . . . . . 10,073 Aiguille de Varens . . . . . . . .8,163 Bella Tola . . . . . . . . . . 9,935 Mont Chetif . . . . . . . . . .7,687 Pointe de Tanneverge . . . . . 9,784 Mole. . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,132 Belvedere (Aigs. Rouges) 9,731 Saleve (highest point). . . . .4,528

Chief Passes of the Pennine Alps.

Sesiajoch (Zermatt to Alagna), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14,515 Col de la Brenva (Courmayeur to Chamonix), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . 14,217 Domjoch (Randa to Saas), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14,062 Lysjoch (Zermatt to Gressoney), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14,033 Mischabeljoch (Zermatt to Saas), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,651 Alphubel Pass (same to same), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,474 Adler Pass (same to same), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,461 Moming Pass (Zermatt to Zinal), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,287 Schwarzthor (Zermatt to Ayas), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,274 Col de Triolet (Chamonix to Courmayeur), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,110 Ried Pass (St Niklaus to Saas), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,800 New Weissthor (Zermatt to Macugnaga), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,746 Allalin Pass (Zermatt to Saas), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,713 Col de Valpelline (Zermatt to Aosta), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,687 Biesjoch (Randa to Turtmann), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,644 Triftjoch (Zermatt to Zinal), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,615 Col d'Argentiere (Chamonix to Orsieres), snow. . . . . . . . . . . 11,536 Col du Sonadon (Bourg St Pierre to the Val de Bagnes), snow. . . . . . . 11,447 Col de Talefre (Chamonix to Courmayeur), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,430 Col d'Herens (Zermatt to Evolena), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,418 Col Durand (Zermatt to Zinal), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,398 Col des Maisons Blanches (Bourg St Pierre to the Val de Bagnes), snow. . 11,241 Col de Bertol (Arolla to the Col d'Herens), snow. . . . . . . . . . . 11,200 Col de Miage (Contamines to Courmayeur), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,077 Col du Geant (Chamonix to Courmayeur), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,060 Col du Mont Rouge (Val de Bagnes to the Val d'Heremence), snow . . 10,962 Col du Chardonnet (Chamonix to Orsieres), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,909 Col de St Theodule (Zermatt to Chatillon), snow. . . . . . . . . . 10,899 Col du Tour (Chamonix to Orsieres), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,762 Fenetre de Saleinaz (Saleinaz Glacier to Trient Glacier), snow. . . . 10,709 Col de Tracuit (Zinal to Turtmann), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,670 Zwischbergen Pass (Saas to Gondo), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,657 Col d'Oren (Val de Bagnes to the Valpelline), snow . . . . . . . . . . . 10,637 Col de Seilon (Val de Bagnes to the Val d'Heremence), snow . . . . 10,499 Col du Cret (Val de Bagnes to the Val d'Heremence), snow. . . . 10,329 Col de Valcournera (Val Tournanche to the Valpelline), snow . . . . . 10,325 Col de Collon (Arolla to Aosta), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,270 Col de Valsorey (Bourg St Pierre to Aosta), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,214 Col de Chermontane (Val de Bagnes to Arolla), snow . . . . . . . . . . . 10,119 Cimes Blanches (Val Tournanche to Ayas), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . .9,777 Col de Torrent (Evolena to the Val de Torrent), bridle path. . . . . . . .9,593 Augstbord Pass (St Niklaus to Turtmann), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . .9,492 Col de Crete Seche (Val de Bagnes to the Valpelline), snow . . . . .9,475 Col de Breuil (Bourg St Maurice to La Thuille), snow . . . . . . . . . . .9,446 Col d'Olen (Alagna to Gressoney), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,420 Monte Moro (Saas to Macugnaga), partly bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . .9,390 Pas de Chevres (Arolla to the Val d'Heremence), foot path . . . .9,354 Antrona Pass (Saas to Antrona), partly bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . .9,331 Col de Sorebois (Zinal to the Val de Torrent), bridle path . . . . . . . .9,269 Col de Vessona (Valpelline to the St Barthelemy Glen), foot path. . . .9,167 Col de Fenetre (Val de Bagnes to Aosta), bridle path. . . . . . . . . .9,141 Z'Meiden Pass (Zinal to Turtmann), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,095 Turlo Pass (Alagna to Macugnaga), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,977 Col de Fenetre (Great St Bernard to the Swiss Val Ferret), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,855 Bettafurka (Ayas to Gressoney), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,780 Col du Mont Tondu (Contamines to Courmayeur), snow . . . . . . . . . . . .8,498 Col Serena (Great St Bernard to Courmayeur). foot path . . . . . . . . . .8,327 Col Ferret (Courmayeur to Orsieres), carriage road in progress. . . . .8,311 Col de la Seigne (Chapieux to Courmayeur) bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .8,242 Col de Susanfe (Champery to Salvan), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . .8,202 Col du Bonhomme (Contamines to Chapieux), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .8,147 Col de Valdobbia (Gressoney to the Val Sesia), bridle path . . . . . . . .8,134 Great St Bernard (Martigny to Aosta), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . .8,111 Col de Sagerou (Sixt to Champery), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,917 Col de Moud (Alagna to Rima and Varallo), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .7,622 Col d'Anterne (Sixt to Servos), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,425 Col d'Egua (Rima to the Val Anzasca), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,336 Col de Balme (Chamonix to the Trient Valley), bridle path. . . . . . . . .7,221 Simplon Pass (Brieg to Domo d'Ossola), carriage road over, railway tunnel beneath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,592 Col de Checouri (Courmayeur to the Lac de Combal),bridle path . . . . .6,431 Baranca Pass (Varallo to the Val Anzasca), bridle path . . . . . . . . . .5,971 Col de Voza (Chamonix to Contamines), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .5,496 Col de la Forclaz (Chamonix to St Gervais), bridle path. . . . . . . . . .5,105 Col de la Forclaz (Trient Valley to Martigny), carriage road . . . . . . .4,987

II. CENTRAL ALPS

6. Bernese Oberland (from the Lake of Geneva to the Furka, the Reuss Valley and the Lake of Lucerne). This general name seems best to describe the range in question, though, of course, portions of it are in Cantons other than that of Berne, viz. Vaud, Fribourg, the Valais, Lucerne, Uri and Unterwalden.

Chief Peaks of the Bernese Oberland.

Finsteraarhorn . . . . . . . . 14,026 Wellhorn . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,486 Aletschhorn. . . . . . . . . . 13,721 Mettenberg . . . . . . . . . . . 10,194 Jungfrau . . . . . . . . . . . 13,669 Loffelhorn. . . . . . . . . . 10,165 Monch . . . . . . . . . . . 13,468 Grand Muveran. . . . . . . . . . 10,043 Gross Schreckhorn. . . . . . . 13,386 Gross Wendenstock. . . . . . . . .9,987 Gross Fiescherhorn . . . . . . 13,285 Sparrhorn. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,928 Eiger. . . . . . . . . . . . . 13,042 Torrenthorn. . . . . . . . . . . .9,853 Bietschhorn. . . . . . . . . . 12,970 Grande Dent de Morcles . . . . . .9,777 Gross Wannehorn. . . . . . . . 12,812 Schilthorn . . . . . . . . . . . .9,754 Gross Nesthorn . . . . . . . . 12,533 Eggishorn. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,626 Lauterbrunnen Breithorn. . . . 12,399 Uri Rothstock. . . . . . . . . . .9,620 Balmhorn . . . . . . . . . . . 12,176 Schwarzhorn(Grindelwald) . . . . .9,613 Wetterhorn (Mittelhorn). . . . 12,166 Gross Siedelhorn . . . . . . . . .9,452 Wetterhorn (Hash Jungfrau) . . 12,149 Albristhorn. . . . . . . . . . . .9,069 Rothihorn.. . . . . . . . . . .9,052 Wetterhorn (Rosenhorn) . . . . 12,110 Faulhorn . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,803 Blumlisalphorn. . . . . . . 12,044 Gummfluh . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,074 Gross Doldenhorn . . . . . . . 11,966 Sulegg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,914 Atels. . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,930 Vanil Noir . . . . . . . . . . . .7,858 Dammastock . . . . . . . . . . 11,920 Niesen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,763 Galenstock . . . . . . . . . . 11,802 Brienzer Rothhorn. . . . . . . . .7,714 Sustenhorn . . . . . . . . . . 11,523 Tour d'Ai. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,658 Gspaltenhorn . . . . . . . . . 11,293 Hohgant. . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,225 Fleckistock. . . . . . . . . . 11,214 Stockhorn. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,192 Gross Huhnerstock . . . . . 10,985 Kaiseregg. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,182 Ewigschneehorn . . . . . . . . 10,929 Pilatus (Tomlishorn) . . . . . . .6,995 Ritzlihorn . . . . . . . . . . 10,768 Chamossaire. . . . . . . . . . . .6,943 Wildhorn . . . . . . . . . . . 10,709 Gemmenalphorn. . . . . . . . . . .6,772 Wildstrubel. . . . . . . . . . 10,673 Rochers de Nave. . . . . . . . . .5,710 Diablerets . . . . . . . . . . 10,650 Moleson . . . . . . . . . . . .6,582 Titlis . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,627 Dent de Jaman. . . . . . . . . . .6,165 Gross Spannort . . . . . . . . 10,516 Napf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,629

Chief Passes of the Bernese Oberland.

Lauithor (Lauterbrunnen to the Eggishorn), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,140 Monchjoch (Grindelwald to the Eggishorn), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . 11,680 Jungfraujoch (Wengern Alp to the Eggishorn), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . 11,385 Strahlegg Pass (Grindelwald to the Grimsel), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,995 Grunhornlueke (Great Aletsch Glacier to the Fiescher Glacier), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,844 Oberaarjoch (Grimsel to the Eggishorn), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,607 Gauli Pass (Grimsel to Meiringen), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,519 Petersgrat (Lauterbrunnen to the Lotschenthal), snow. . . . . . . . . 10,516 Lotschenlucke (Lotschenthal to the Eggishorn), snow . . . . . . 10,512 Lauteraarsattel (Grindelwald to the Grimsel), snow . . . . . . . . . . . 10,355 Beichgrat (Lotschenthal to the Bel Alp), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,289 Lammernjoch (Lenk to the Gemmi), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,276 Triftlimmi (Rhone Glacier to the Gadmen Valley), snow. . . . . . . . . . 10,200 Sustenlimmi (Stein Alp to Goeschenen), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,181 Gamchilucke (Kien Valley to Lauterbrunnen), snow. . . . . . . . . . . .9,295 Tschiugel Pass (Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg), snow . . . . . . . . . . . .9,265 Hohthurli Pass (Kandersteg to the Kien Valley), foot path . . . . . . .8,882 Lotschen Pass (Kandersteg to the Lotschenthal), snow . . . . . . . .8,842 Sefinenfurka (Lauierbrunnen to the Kien Valley), foot path . . . . . . . .8,583 Wendenjoch (Engelberg to the Gadmen Valley), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . .8,544 Furtwangsattel (Guttannen to the Gadmen Valley), foot path . . . . . . . .8,393 Furka Pass (Rhone Glacier to Andermatt), carriage road . . . . . . . . . .7,992 Rawil Pass (Sion to Lenk), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,924 Gemmi Pass (Randersteg to Leukerbad), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,641 Surenen Pass (Engelberg to Altdorf), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,563 Susten Pass (Meiringen to Wassen), partly carriage road. . . . . . . . . .7,422 Sanetsch Pass (Sion to Saanen), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,331 Joch Pass (Meiringen to Engelberg), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,267 Grimsel Pass (Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier), carriage road . . . . . . .7,100 Kleine Scheidegg (Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen), railway over. . . . . . .6,772 Col de Cheville (Sion to Bex), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,723 Grosse Scheidegg (Grindelwald to Meiringen), bridle path . . . . . . . . .6,454 Col de Jaman (Montreux to Montbovon), mule path over, railway tunnel beneath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,974 Brunig Pass (Meiringen to Lucerne), railway over. . . . . . . . . . . .3,396

7. Lepontine Alps (from the Simplon to the Splugen and south of the Furka and Oberalp Passes). The eastern portion of this range, from the St Gotthard Pass to the Splugen, is sometimes named the Adula Alps.

Chief Peaks of the Lepontine Alps.

Monte Leone. . . . . . . . . . 11,684 Piz Blas . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,918 Rheinwaldhorn. . . . . . . . . 11,149 Monte Giove. . . . . . . . . . . .9,876 Guferhorn . . . . . . . . . 11,132 Pizzo Centrale . . . . . . . . . .9,853 Blindenhorn. . . . . . . . . . 11,103 Pizzas d'Annarosa. . . . . . . . .9,850 Basodino . . . . . . . . . . . 10,749 Piz Beverin. . . . . . . . . . . .9,843 Tambohorn. . . . . . . . . . . 10,749 Weisshorn (Splugen) . . . . . .9,817 Helsenhorn . . . . . . . . . . 10,742 Pizzo Lucendro . . . . . . . . . .9,708 Wasenhorn. . . . . . . . . . . 10,680 Piz Tomul . . . . . . . . . . .9,676 Ofenhorn . . . . . . . . . . . 10,637 Piz Cavel. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,659 Cherbadung . . . . . . . . . . 10,542 Barenhorn . . . . . . . . . . .9,620 Piz Medel. . . . . . . . . . . 10,509 Six Madun (Badus). . . . . . . . .9,619 Scopi. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,499 Piz Muraun . . . . . . . . . . . .9,512 Pizzo Rotondo. . . . . . . . . 10,489 Zervreilerhorn . . . . . . . . . .9,508 Pizzo dei Piani. . . . . . . . 10,361 Monte Cistella . . . . . . . . . .9,353 Piz Terri. . . . . . . . . . . 10,338 Piz Lukmanier. . . . . . . . . . .9,115 Piz Aul. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,250 Monte Prosa. . . . . . . . . . . .8,983 Pizzo di Pesciora. . . . . . . 10,247 Pizzo Columbe . . . . . . . . .8,363 Wyttenwasserstock. . . . . . . 10,119 Monte Camoghe . . . . . . . . .7,303 Campo Tencia . . . . . . . . . 10,089 Piz Mundaun. . . . . . . . . . . .6,775 Leckihorn. . . . . . . . . . . 10,069 Monte Generoso . . . . . . . . . .5,591 Bruschghorn. . . . . . . . . . 10,020 Monte San Salvatore. . . . . . . .3,004 Alperschellihorn . . . . . . . 9,991

Chief Passes of the Lepontine Alps.

Zapport Pass (Hinterrhein to Malvaglia and Biasca), snow . . . . . . . . 10,103 Guferlucke (Kanal Glen to the Lenta Glen), snow. . . . . . . . . . .9,777 Lentalucke (Hinterrhein to Vals Platz), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,692 Hohsand Pass (Binn to Tosa Falls), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,603 Lecki Pass (Wyttenwasser Glen to the Mutten Glen), snow. . . . . . . . . .9,554 Passo Rotondo (Airolo to Oberwald), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,449 Kaltwasser Pass (Simplon Hospice to Veglia Alp), snow. . . . . . . . . . .9,331 Scaradra Pass (Vals Platz to Olivone), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,088 Satteltelucke (Vals Platz to Vrin), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,082 Ritter Pass (Binn to Veglia Alp), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,832 Cavanna Pass (Realp to the Val Bedretto), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,566 Scatta Minoja (Devero to the Val Formazza), bridle path. . . . . . . . . .8,521 Bocca di Cadlimo (Airolo to the Lukmanier Pass), foot path . . . . . . . .8,340 Valserberg (Hinterrhein to Vals Platz), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . .8,225 Safierberg (Splugen to Safien Platz), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . .8,170 Geisspfad Pass (Binn to Devero), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,120 Gries Pass (Ulrichen to Tosa Falls), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,098 Passo di Naret (Fusio to Airolo), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,015 Nufenen Pass (Ulrichen to Airolo), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,006 Diesrut Pass (Vrin fo the Somvix Oolen), bad bridle path . . . . . . . . .7,953 Albrun Pass (Binn to Devero and Baceno), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . .7,907 Greina Pass (Olivone to the Somvix Glen), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .7,743 San Giacomo Pass (Airolo to Tosa Falls), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . .7,573 Passo di Buffalora (Val Mesocco to the Val Calanca), foot path . . . . . .7,431 Passo dell' Uomo (Airolo to the Lukmanier Pass), bridle path . . . . . . .7,258 Splugen Pass (Thusis to Chiavenna), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . .6,946 St Gotthard Pass (Andermatt to Airolo), carriage road over, railway tunnel beneath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,936 San Bernardino Pass (Thusis to Bellinzona), carriage road. . . . . . . . .6,769 Lukmanier Pass (Disentis to Olivone), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . .6,289

8. The Range of the Todi (from the Oberalp Pass to the Klausen Pass).

Todi. . . . . . . . . . . . 11,887 Piz Segnes . . . . . . . . . . . 10,178 Bifertenstock. . . . . . . . . 11,241 Piz Giuf . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,165 Piz Urlaun . . . . . . . . . . 11,060 Crispalt . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,105 Oberalpstock . . . . . . . . . 10,926 Bristenstock . . . . . . . . . . 10,086 Gross Scheerhorn . . . . . . . 10,814 Selbsanft. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,938 Claridenstock. . . . . . . . . 10,729 Vorab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,925 Dussistock. . . . . . . . . 10,703 Tschingelhorner (Elm) . . . . .9,351 Ringelspitz. . . . . . . . . . 10,667 Piz Sol (Grauehorner) . . . . .9,348 Brigelserhorner (highest) . 10,663 Calanda. . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,213 Grosse Windgalle. . . . . . 10,473 Karpfstock. . . . . . . . . . .9,177 Hausstock. . . . . . . . . . . 10,342 Mageren. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,294 Gross Ruchen . . . . . . . . . 10,289 Murtschenstock. . . . . . . . .8,012

Chief Passes of the Range of the Todi.

Clariden Pass (Amsteg to Linththal), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,741 Planura Pass (same to same), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,646 Kammlilucke or Scheerjoch (Maderanerthal to Unterschachen), snow . .9,344 Sardona Pass (Flims to Ragaz), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,318 Sand Alp Pass (Disentis to Linththal), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,121 Brunni Pass (Disentis to Amsteg), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,977 Segnes Pass (Elm to Flims), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,613 Kisten Pass (Linththal to Ilanz), bad bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .8,203 Panixer Pass (Elm to Ilanz), bad bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,897 Kruzli Pass (Amsteg to Sedrun), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,710 Foo or Ramin Pass (Elm to Weisstannen), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . .7,290 Oberalp Pass (Andermatt to Disentis), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . .6,719 Klausen Pass (Altdorf to Linththal), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . .6,404

9. The Alps of North-Eastern Switzerland (north of the Klausen Pass).

Chief Peaks of the North-Eastern Swiss Alps.

Glarnisch (highest) . . . . 9,580 Gross Mythen . . . . . . . . . . .6,240 Boser Faulen. . . . . . . . 9,200 Rigikulm . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,906 Santis. . . . . . . . . . . 8,216 Hoher Kasten . . . . . . . . . . .5,899 Altmann. . . . . . . . . . . . 7,999 Rossberg . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,194 Faulfirst. . . . . . . . . . . 7,925 Zugerberg (Hochwacht). . . . . . .3,255 Alvier . . . . . . . . . . . . 7,753 Albis Hochwacht. . . . . . . . . .2,887 Kurfursten (highest). . . . 7,576 Uetliberg. . . . . . . . . . . . .2,864 Speer. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6,411

Chief Passes of the North-Eastern Swiss Alps.

Ruosalperkulm (Schachen Valley to the Muota Valley), foot path. . . . .7,126 Karren Alp Pass (Muota Valley to Linththal), foot path . . . . . . . . . .6,877 Kinzigkulm Pass (Schachen Valley to the Muota Valley), foot path. . . .6,811 Saasberg Pass (Einsiedeln to Glarus), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,227 Kamor Pass (Appcnzell to Ruti), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,512 Saxerlucke (Appenzell to Sax), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,417 Schwein Alp Pass (Waggithal to the Klon Glen), bridle path . . . . .5,158 Pragel Pass (Muotathal to Glarus), carriage road in progress . . . . . . .5,099 Hacken Pass (Schwyz to Einsiedeln), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,649 Holzegg Pass (same to same), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,616 Ibergeregg Pass (Schwyz to Iberg and Einsicdeln), carriage road. . . . . .4,613 Krazeren Pass (Nesslau to Urnasch), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .3,993

10. Bernina Alps (from the Maloja to the Reschen Scheideck and the Stelvio, south and east of the Val Bregaglia and of the Engadine and north of the Vultellina).

Chief Peaks of the Bernina Alps.

Piz Bernina. . . . . . . . . . 13,304 Piz Languard . . . . . . . . . . 10,716 Piz Zupo . . . . . . . . . . . 13,131 Piz Sesvenna . . . . . . . . . . 10,568 Monte di Scerscen. . . . . . . 13,116 Piz Pisoc. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,427 Piz Roseg. . . . . . . . . . . 12,934 Piz Murtarol. . . . . . . . . 10,424 Piz Palu. . . . . . . . . . 12,835 Piz Quaiervals . . . . . . . . . 10,358 Crast' Aguzza . . . . . . . 12,704 Pizzo della Margna . . . . . . . 10,355 Piz Morteratsch. . . . . . . . 12,317 Cima di Redasco. . . . . . . . . 10,299 Monte della Disgrazia. . . . . 12,067 Piz Lischanna. . . . . . . . . . 10,204 Pizzo di Verona. . . . . . . . 11,359 Pizzo di Sena. . . . . . . . . . 10,099 Cima di Piazzi . . . . . . . . 11,283 Piz Casana . . . . . . . . . . . 10,079 Cima di Castello . . . . . . . 11,155 Monte Foscagno . . . . . . . . . 10,010 Cima Viola . . . . . . . . . . 11,103 Pizzo del Teo. . . . . . . . . . 10,007 Pizzo Cengalo. . . . . . . . . 11,070 Pizzo del Ferro. . . . . . . . . 10,007 Cima di Rosso. . . . . . . . . 11,060 Piz Umbrail. . . . . . . . . . . .9,955 Pizzo Scalino. . . . . . . . . 10,903 Zwei Schwestern. . . . . . . . . .9,784 Pizzo Badile . . . . . . . . . 10,863 Monte Braulio. . . . . . . . . . .9,777 Corno di Campo . . . . . . . . 10,844 Monte Spluga . . . . . . . . . . .9,321 Pizzo di Dosde. . . . . . . 10,762 Monte Massuccio. . . . . . . . . .9,239 Cima di Saoseo . . . . . . . . 10,752 Mont la Schera . . . . . . . . . .8,494

Chief Passes of the Bernina Alps.

Fuorcla Bellavista (Ponrresina to Chiesa, in Val Malenco), snow. . . . . 12,087 Fuorcla Crast' Aguzza (same to same), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,805 Fuorcla Tschierva (same to same), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,572 Fuorela Sella (same to same), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,840 Passo di Bondo (Bondo to the Baths of Masino), snow. . . . . . . . . . . 10,227 Passo di Castello (Maloja to Morbegno), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,171 Passo Tremoggia (Sils to Chiesa), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,912 Passo di Mello Chiareggio to Val Masino), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,813 Diavolezza Pass (Bernina road to the Morteratsch Glen), snow . . . . . . .9,767 Passo di Dosde (Val Grosina to Val Viola Bormina), foot path. . . . . .9,351 Passo di Sacco (Bernina road to Grosio), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . .9,026 Passo di Zocca (Vicosoprano to Val Masino), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,000 Casana pass (Scants to Livigno), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,832 Muretto pass (Maloja to Chiesa), partly snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,389 Umbrail Pass or Wormserjoch (Munster Valley to the Stelvio road), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,242 Passo di Val Viola (Bernina road to Bormio), bridle path . . . . . . . . .7,976 Giufplan Pass (Ofen road to Fraele), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . .7,723 Bernina Pass (Pontresina to Tirano), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . .7,645 Forcola di Livigno (Bernina Pass to Livigno), small carriage road. . . . .7,638 Cruschetta Pass (Schuls by Scarl to Taufers), bridle path. . . . . . . . .7,599 Passo di Verva (Bormio to Grosio), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,592 Sursass or Schlinig Pass (Remus to Mals) foot path. . . . . . . . . . .7,540 Foscagno Pass (Bormio to Trepalle), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,517 Alpisella Lass (Uivigno to Fraule), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . .7,497 Scarl Pass (Scarl to Santa Maria Munster), carriage road. . . . . . . .7,386 Dossradond Pass (Santa Maria Munster to Fraele), bridle path. . .7,349 Passo Dheira (Livigno to Trepalle) bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,248 Ofen Pass (Zernez to Mals), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,071 Fraele Pass (Bormio to the Ofen road), partly bridle path . . . . . . .6,398 Scale di Fraele (Borniio to Fraele), bridle path . . . . . . . . . .6,372 Maloja Pass (St Moritz to Chiavenna), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . .5,935

11. Albula Range (from the Splugen Pass to the Fluela Pass. north and west of the Val Bregaglia and of the Engadine).

Chief Peaks of the Albula Range.

Piz Kesch. . . . . . . . . . . 11,228 Pizzo Stella . . . . . . . . . . 10,375 Piz dellas Calderas. . . . . . 11,132 Fluela Schwarzhorn. . . . . . 10,355 Piz Platta . . . . . . . . . . 11,109 Pizzo della Duana. . . . . . . . 10,279 Piz Julier . . . . . . . . . . 11,106 Pizzo Gallegione . . . . . . . . 10,201 Piz d'Err. . . . . . . . . . . 11,093 Gletscherhorn. . . . . . . . . . 10,191 Piz d'Aela . . . . . . . . . . 10,959 Cima di Lago . . . . . . . . . . 10,112 Cima da Flex . . . . . . . . . 10,785 Hoch Ducan . . . . . . . . . . . 10,060 Piz Uertsch. . . . . . . . . . 10,739 Piz Grisch . . . . . . . . . . . 10,000 Piz Forbisch . . . . . . . . . 10,689 Averser Weissberg. . . . . . . . .9,987 Piz Ot . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,667 Surettahorn. . . . . . . . . . . .9,971 Gross Piz Vadret . . . . . . . 10,584 Arosa Rothhorn . . . . . . . . . .9,794 Piz Timun or Emet. . . . . . . 10,502 Piz Curver . . . . . . . . . . . .9,761 Tinzenhorn . . . . . . . . . . 10,430 Pizzo Lunghino . . . . . . . . . .9,121 Piz Michel . . . . . . . . . . 10,378 Statzerhorn . . . . . . . . . .8,450

Chief Passes of the Albula Range.

Fuorcla Calderas (Molins to Bevers), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,270 Fuorcla d'Eschia (Madulein to Bergun), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,869 Passo della Duana (Avers Vnlley to the Val Bregaglia), snow. . . . . . . .9,187 Sertig Pass (Davos to Scanfs), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,062 Forcella di Prassignola (Avers Valley to Soglio), old paved cattle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,924 Tinzenthor (Bergun to Savognino), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,918 Forcella di Lago or Madris Pass (Avers Valley to Chiavenna), foot path . .8,793 Forcellina (Avers Valley to the Septimer Pass), foot path. . . . . . . . .8,770 Ducan Pass (Davos to Bergun), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,763 Passo di Lei (Avers Valley to Chiavenna), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . .8,724 Forcella di Lunghino (Maloja to the Septimer Pass), foot path. . . . . . .8,645 Scaletta Pass (Davos to Scanfs), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,593 Suvretta Pass (St Moritz to Bevers), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,590 Fuorcla d'Alp Fontauna (Bergun to Scanfs), foot path. . . . . . . . . .8,580 Stallerberg (Avers Valley to Bivio-Stalla), foot path. . . . . . . . . . .8,478 Grialetsch Pass (Davos to Sus), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,353 Fluela Pass (Davos to Sus), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,838 Strela Pass (Davos to Langwies), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,799 Albula Pass (Bergun to Ponte), carriage road over, railway tunnel beneath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,595 Septimer Pass (Bivio-Stalla to Casaccia), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .7,582 Julier Pass (Thusis to Silvaplana), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,504 Passo di Madesimo or d'Emet (Avers Valley to Madesimo), foot path. . . . .7,481

12. Silvretta and Rhatikon Ranges (from the Fuela Pass to the Reschen Scheideck and the Arlberg Pass).

Chief Peaks of the Silvretta and Rhatikon Ranpes.

Piz Linard . . . . . . . . . . 11,201 Vesulspitze. . . . . . . . . . . 10,145 Fluchthorn . . . . . . . . . . 11,165 Fluela Weisshorn. . . . . . . 10,132 Gross Piz Buin . . . . . . . . 10,880 Piz Minschun . . . . . . . . . . 10,079 Verstanklahorn . . . . . . . . 10,831 Patteriol. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,037 Muttler. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,821 Piz Faschalba. . . . . . . . . . 10,010 Piz Fliana . . . . . . . . . . 10,775 Hexenkopf. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,968 Stammerspitze. . . . . . . . . 10,689 Gemsbleiskopf. . . . . . . . . . .9,899 Silvrettahorn. . . . . . . . . 10,657 Pischahorn . . . . . . . . . . . .9,784 Augstenberg. . . . . . . . . . 10,611 Scesaplana . . . . . . . . . . . .9,741 Plattenhorn. . . . . . . . . . 10,568 Rothbleiskopf. . . . . . . . . . .9,640 Dreilanderspitze. . . . . . 10,539 Hohes Rad. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,554 Piz Tasna. . . . . . . . . . . 10,443 Schiltfluh . . . . . . . . . . . .9,482 Kuchenspitze . . . . . . . . . 10,401 Plattenpspitze . . . . . . . . . .9,449 Hoher Riffler. . . . . . . . . 10,368 Madrishorn . . . . . . . . . . . .9,285 Piz Mondin . . . . . . . . . . 10,325 Drusenfluh . . . . . . . . . . . .9,282 Kuchelspitze. . . . . . . . 10,315 Sulzfluh . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,252 Gross Seehorn. . . . . . . . . 10,247 Zimbaspitze. . . . . . . . . . . .8,678 Vesilspitze. . . . . . . . . . 10,220 Naafkopf . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,445 Gross Litzner. . . . . . . . . 10,207 Falknis. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,419

Chief Passes of the Silvretta and Rhatikon Ranges.

Jamjoch (Guarda to Galtur), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 112 Fuorcla del Confin (Silvretta Pass to the Vermunt Glacier), snow . . . . 10,033 Buinlucke (Guarda to Patenen), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,020 Silvretta Pass (Klosters to Lavin), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,886 Zahnlucke (Jam Glen to the Fimber Glen), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,712 Verstanklathor (Klosters to Lavin), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,682 Fuorcla d'Urezzas (Ardez to Galtur), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,564 Fuorcla Tasna (Ardez to Ischgl), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,374 Fuorcla Maisas (Remus to the Samnaun Glen), snow. . . . . . . . . . . .9,357 Vermunt or Fermunt Pass (Guarda to Patenen), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,193 Futschol Pass (Ardez to Galtur), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,098 Fuorcla Zadrell or Vernela Pass (Klosters to Lavin), snow. . . . . . . . .9,033 Cuolm d'Alp bella or Vignitz Pass (Samnaun Glen to Kappl), foot path . . .8,852 Schafbucheljoch (Mathon to St Anton), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . .8,685 Fimber Pass (Remus to Ischgl), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,570 Scheien Pass (Klosters to the See Glen), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . .8,557 Vereina Pass or Pass da Val Torta (Klosters to Lavin), foot path . . . . .8,540 Zebles Pass (Ischgl to the Samnaun Glen), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .8,350 Garnerajoch (Klosters to Gaschurn), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,153 Fless Pass (Klosters to Sus), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,045 St Antonien or Gargellenjoch (St Antonien to St Gallenkirch), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,792 Drusenthor (Schiers to Schruns), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,710 Verrajochl (Lunersee to the Schweizerthor), foot path. . . . . . . .7,648 Ofen Pass (Schweizerthor to Schruns), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,523 Cavelljoch (Bludenz and the Lunersee to Seewis), foot path. . . . . . .7,343 Gruben Pass (St Antonien to Schruns), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . .7,333 Schlappinerjoch (Klosters to St Gallenkirch), bridle path. . . . . . . . .7,218 Schweizerthor (Schiers to Schruns), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 057 Bielerhohe (Patenen to Galtur), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . .6,631 Zeinisjoch (Patenen to Galtur), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,076 Arlberg Pass (Landeck to Bludenz), carriage road over, railway tunnel beneath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,912

III. EASTERN ALPS

13. The Alps of Bavaria, the Vorarlberg and Salzburg (north of the Arlberg Pass, Innsbruck, the Pinzgau, and the Enns valley).

Chief Peaks of the Alps of Bavaria, the Vorarlberg and Salzburg.

Parseierspitze . . . . . . . . 9,968 Watzmann . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,901 Dachstein. . . . . . . . . . . 9,830 Rothewandspitze. . . . . . . . . .8,878 Zugspitze. . . . . . . . . . . 9,738 Gross Krottenkopf(Allgau) . . .8,718 Hochkonig . . . . . . . . . 9,639 Selbhorn . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,711 Valluga. . . . . . . . . . . . 9,223 Hohes Licht. . . . . . . . . . . .8,701 Rockspitze . . . . . . . . . . 9,059 Madelegabel . . . . . . . . . .8,681 E. Hohe Griesspitze. . . . . . 9,052 Hochvogel. . . . . . . . . . . . .8,511 Stanskogel . . . . . . . . . . 9,052 Elmauer Haltsspitze Birkkarspitze (Karwendel). . . 9,042 (Kaisergebirge) . . . . . . .7,691

Chief Passes of the Alps of Bavaria, the Vorarlberg and Salzburg.

Gentschel Pass (Oberstdorf to Schrocken), bridle path . . . . . . . . .6,480 Schrofen Pass (Oberstdorf to Warth), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,538 Gerlos Pass (Zell to Mittersill), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,876 Pass Thurn (Kirzbuhel to Mittersill), carriage road . . . . . . . . . .4,183 Fern Pass (Reutte to Nassereit), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,026 Scharnitz or Seefeld Pass (Partenkirchen to Zirl), carriage road . . . . .3,874 Hirschbuhel Pass (Berchtesgaden to Saalfelden), carriage road . . . . .3,858 Hochfilzen Pass (Saalfelden to Kitzbuhel), railway over . . . . . . . .3,173 Pyhrn Pass (Linz to Liezen), carriage road over, railway tunnel beneath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3,100 Wagreinstattel (Radstadt to St Johann in Pongau), carriage road. . . . . .2,743

14. Central Tirol Alps (from the Brenner Pass to the Radstadter Tauern Pass, north of the Drave Valley and south of the Pinzgau and the Enns Valley). This division takes in the Zillerthal and Tuern Ranges.

Chief Peaks of the Central Tirol Alps.

Gross Glockner . . . . . . . . 12,461 Ruthnerhorn(Rieserferner). . . . 11,024 Gross Venediger. . . . . . . . 12,008 Gross Wiesbachhorn . . . . . . 11,713 Hochalmspitze. . . . . . . . . . 11,008 Hochfeiler (Zillerthal). . . . 11,559 Reichenspitze (Z). . . . . . . . 10,844 Dreiherrenspitze . . . . . . . 11,500 Gross Rotherknopf (Schober). . . 10,814 Mosele (Z). . . . . . . . . 11,438 Olperer (Z). . . . . . . . . . 1i,418 Gross Morchner (Z). . . . . . 10,785 Johannisberg . . . . . . . . . 11,375 Hochnarr (Goldberg). . . . . . . 10,689 Hochgall (Rieserferner). . . . 11,287 Ankogel. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,673 Thurnerkamp (Z). . . . . . . . 11,228 Hochschober. . . . . . . . . . . 10,663 Gross Loflier (Z) . . . . . 11,096 Kitzsteinhorn. . . . . . . . . . 10,512 Fusstein (Z) . . . . . . . . . 11,090 Sonnblick. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,196 Schwarzenstein (Z) . . . . . . 11,057 Zsigmondyspitze. . . . . . . . . 10,122 Gross Geiger . . . . . . . . . 11,041 Reckner (Tuxergebirge) . . . . . .9,485

Chief Passes of the Central Tirol Alps.

Mitterbachjoch (Breitlahner to Taufers), snow (Z). . . . . . . . . . . . 10,270 Trippachsattel (Floiten Valley to Taufers), snow (Z) . . . . . . . . . . 10,020 Riffelthor (Kaprun to Heiligenblut), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,010 Bockkarscharte (Ferleiten to Heiligenblut), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,994 Sonnblickscharte (Rauris to Heiligenblut), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,774 Alpeinerscharte (Breitlahner to St Jodok am Brenner), foot path (Z). . . .9,712 Vorder Umbalthorl (Pragraten to Kasern), snow. . . . . . . . . . . .9,607 Ober Sulzbachthorl (Pragraten to Wald), snow . . . . . . . . . . . .9,600 Keilbachjoch (Mayrhofen to Steinhaus), foot path (Z) . . . . . . . . . . .9,410 Unter Sulzbachthorl (Wald to Gschloss), snow . . . . . . . . . . . .9,400 Schwarzkopfscharte (Bramberg to Gschloss), snow . . . . . . . . . . . .9,351 Pragraterthorl (Pragraten to the Defereggen Glen),foot path . . .9,338 Glodisthorl (Lienz to Kals), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,292 Antholzerscharte (Rein Valley to the Antholz Valley), snow . . . . . . . .9,252 Krimmlerthorl (Krimml Glen to the Obersulzbach Glen) snow . . . . . . .9,233 Goldzechscharte (Heiligenblut to Rauris), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,220 Kalserthorl (Kals to Liens), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,197 Ober Tramerscharte (Rauris to Dollach), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,193 Kleine Elendscharte (Gastein to Gmund), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,987 Kleine Zirknitzscharte (Dollach to Fragant or Rauris), snow . . . . . .8,921 Dossener or Maunitzerscharte (Mallnitz to Gmund), snow . . . . . . .8,783 Grosse Elendscharte (Mallnitz to the Upper Malta Glen), snow . . . . . . .8,770 Unter Pfandlscharte (Ferleiten to Heiligenblut), snow. . . . . . . . . . .8,744 Heiliggeistjochl (Mayrhofen to Kasern), foot path (Z) . . . . . . . . .8,721 Bergerthorl (Kals to Heiligenblut), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,695 Kaprunerthorl (upper Kaprun Glen to the upper Stubach Glen), snow . . .8,645 Krimmler Tauern (Krimml to Kasern), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,642 Virgner or Defereggerthorl (Defereggen Glen to Virgen and Pragraten), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,586 Backlenke or Trojerjoch (Pragraten to the Defereggen Glen), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,573 Hochthor or Heiligenbluter Tauern (Heiligenblut to Rauris), foot path. . .8,442 Horndljochl (Mayrhofen to Steinhaus), foot path (Z). . . . . . . . .8,383 Velber Tauern (Windisch Matrei to Mittersill), bridle path . . . . . . . .8,334 Kalser Tauern (Kals to Uttendorf), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,242 Hohe or Korn Tauern (Mallnitz to Gastein), bridle path over, railway tunnel beneath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,081 Niedere or Mallnitzer Tauern (Mallnitz to Gastein), bridle path. . . . . .7,920 Fuscherthorl (Ferleiten to the Seidlwinkel Glen), foot path . . . . . .7,891 Lappacherjoch (Lappach to theahrn Valley), foot path (Z) . . . . . . . . .7,763 Tuxerjoch or Schmirnjoch (Mayrhofen to St Jodok am Brenner), foot path (Z) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,697 Klammljoch (Taufers to the Defereggen Valley), bridle path . . . . . . . .7,517 Arlscharte (St Johann in Pongau to Gmund), foot path. . . . . . . . . .7,386 Pfitscherjoch (Mayrhofen to Sterzing), foot path (Z) . . . . . . . . . . .7,376 Kals Matreierthorl (Kals to Windisch Matrei), bridle path . . . . . . .7,238 Die Stanz (Gastein to Rauris), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,900 Stallersattel (Defereggen Glen to the Antholz Glen), bridle path (R) . . .6,742 Radstadter Tauern (Radstadt to Mautendorf), carriage road . . . . . . .5,702

15. Ortler, Oetzthal and Stubai Banges (from the Reschen Scheideck and the Stelvio to the Brenner Pass, south of the Inn Valley, and north of the Tonale Pass).

Chief Peaks of the Ortler, Oetzthal and Stubai Ranges.

Ortler . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,802 Zuckerhutl (Stubai) . . . . . 11,520 Konigsspitze. . . . . . . . 12,655 Schalfkogel. . . . . . . . . . . 11,516 Monte Cevedale . . . . . . . . 12,382 Schrankogel. . . . . . . . . . . 11,483 Wildspitze (Oetzthal). . . . . 12,382 Hochwildspitze . . . . . . . . . 11,418 Weisskugel . . . . . . . . . . 12,291 Sonklarspiize. . . . . . . . . . 11,405 Monte Zebru. . . . . . . . . . 12,254 Tuckettspitze. . . . . . . . . . 11,346 Palon della Mare . . . . . . . 12,156 Wilder Freiger . . . . . . . . . 11,241 Funta San Matteo . . . . . . . 12,113 Veneziaspitze. . . . . . . . . . 11,103 Thurwieserspitze . . . . . . . 11,946 Tscheugelser Hochwand. . . . . . 11,083 Hintere Schwarze. . . . . . 11,920 Monte Confinale. . . . . . . . . 11,057 Similaun . . . . . . . . . . . 11,821 Glockthurm . . . . . . . . . . . 11,011 Pizzo Tresero. . . . . . . . . 11,818 Fernerkogel. . . . . . . . . . . 10,827 Gross Ramolkogel . . . . . . . 11,651 Monte Sobretta . . . . . . . . . 10,814 Vtertainspitze . . . . . . . . 11,618 Habicht. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,758 Hochvernagtspitze. . . . . . . 11,585 Pflerscher Tribulaun . . . . . . 10,178

Chief Passes of the Ortler, Oetzthal and Stubai Ranges.

Hochjoch (Sulden to the Zebru Glen), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,602 Vioz Pass (Santa Caterina to Pejo), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,949 Sonklarscharte (Solden to Sterzing), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,916 Konigsjoch (Sulden to Santa Caterina), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,811 Cevedale Pass (Santa Caterina to the Martell Glen), snow . . . . . . . . 10,732 Gepatschjoch (Vent to the Kauns Valley), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,640 Ramoljoch (Vent to Gurgl), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.479 Langtaufererjoch (Vent to the Reschen Scheideck Pass), snow. . . . . . . 10,391 Bildstockljoch (Solden to Ranalt), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,296 Gurgler Eisjoch (Gurgl to the Pfossen Glen), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,292 Eissee Pass (Sulden to the Martell Glen), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,279 Langthalerjoch (Gurgl to Pfelders), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10,033 Passo del Zebru (Santa Caterina to the Zebru Glen), snow . . . . . . . . .9,925 Sallentjoch (Martell Glen to Rabbi), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,913 Nederjoch (Vent to the Schnals Valley), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,899 Sforzellina Pass (Santa Caterina to Pejo), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,859 Pitzthalerjochl (Mittelbera to Solden), snow . . . . . . . . . . . .9,826 Eisjochl am Bild (Pfelders to the Pfossen Glen), snow . . . . . . . . .9,541 Venter Hochjoch (Vent to the Schnals Valley), snow . . . . . . . . . . . .9,465 Tabarettascharte (Sulden to Trafoi), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,459 Stelvio Pass (Trafoi to Bormio), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,055 Gavia Pass (Santa Caterina to Ponte di Legno), foot path . . . . . . . . .8,651 Timmeljoch or Timblerjoch (Solden to the Passeierthal and Meran), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,232 Jaufen Pass (Sterzing to Meran), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,870 Reschen Scheideck Pass (Landeck to Meran), carriage road . . . . . . . . .4,902 Brenner Pass (Innsbruck to Verona), railway over . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,495

16. Lombard Alps flrom the Lake of Como to the Adige Valley, south of the Valtellina and the Aprica and Tonale Passes. This division includes the Adamello, Presanella, Brenta and Bergamasque ranges.

Chief Peaks of the Lombard Alps.

Presanella. . . . . . . . . . 11,694 Pizzo del Diavolo. . . . . . . . .9,564 Adamello . . . . . . . . . . . 11,661 Re di Castello. . . . . . . . .9,482 Care Alto . . . . . . . . . 11,369 Recastello . . . . . . . . . . . .9,475 Dosson di Genova . . . . . . . 11,254 Monte Gleno. . . . . . . . . . . .9,459 Crozzon di Lares . . . . . . . 11,004 Monte Tornello . . . . . . . . . .8,819 Corno di Baitone . . . . . . . 10,929 Corno Stella . . . . . . . . . . .8,596 Busazza. . . . . . . . . . . . 10,922 Monte Legnone. . . . . . . . . . .8,563 Lobliia Alta . . . . . . . . . 10,486 Pizzo dei Tre Signori. . . . . . .8,380 Cima Tosa (Brenta) . . . . . . 10,420 Pizzo di Presolana . . . . . . . .8,239 Cima di Brenta . . . . . . . . 10,352 Grigna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,907 Crozzon di Brenta. . . . . . . 10,247 Monte Baldo. . . . . . . . . . . .7,218 Pizzo di Coca (Bergamasque). . 10,014 Monte Spinale. . . . . . . . . . .7,094 Pizzo di Scais . . . . . . . . .9,974 Monte Gazza. . . . . . . . . . . .6,529 Pizzo di Redorta . . . . . . . .9,964 Monte Resegone . . . . . . . . . .6,155 Pietra Grande. . . . . . . . . .9,630

Chief Passes of the Lombard Alps.

Passo di Lares (Lares Glacier to the Lobbia Glacier), snow . . . . . . . 10,483 Passo di Cercen (gal di Genova to Fucine), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,984 Passo della Lobbia Alta (Lobbia Glacier to the Mandron (Glacier), snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9,961 Passo di Presena (Val di Genova to the Tonale Pass), snow. . . . . . . . .9,879 Pisgana f'ass ()al di Genova to Ponte di Legno), snow . . . . . . . . .9,626 Bocca di Tuckett (Campiglio to Molveno), snow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,714 Passo di Val Morta or del Diavolo (Val Seriana to Sondrio), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,534 Ulocca di Brenta (Pinzolo or Campiglio to Molveno), snow . . . . . . . . .8,376 Passo del Groste fcampiglio to Clesl, foot path . . . . . . . . . . . .8,006 Passo di Veniua (kal Brembana to Sondrio), foot path . . . . . . . . . . .7,983 Passo del Salro (Val Seriana to Sondrio), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . .7,937 Passo del Venerocolo (Val di Scalvc to the Aprica road), bridle path.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,595 Passo della Forcellina or di Campo (Cedegolo to the Val di Fomo), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,507 V'asso di Idordona (Val Brembana to Sondrio), foot path. . . . . . . . . .6,824 Passo di San Marco (Bergamo to Morbegno), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . .6,513 Croce Domini Pass (Breno to Bagolino in Val Caffaro), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,217 Tonale Tass (.Trent to Edolo), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,181 Passo di Zovetto (Val di Scalve to Edolo), bridle path . . . . . . . . . .5,968 Colle Maniva (Val Trompia to Bagolino), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . .5,476 Campo or Ginevrie Pass (Oimaro by Campiglio to Pinzolo), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,407 Ciampenjoch (Cles to Meran), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,051 Mendel Pass (Botzen to Cles), railway on the E. slope. . . . . . . . . . .4,462 Passo di Castione or Presolana Pass (Clusone to the Val di Scalve), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,219 Aprica Pass (Edolo to Tirano), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3,875

17. The Dolomites of South Tirol (from the Brenner Pass to the Monte Croce Pass, and south of the Pusterthal).

Chief Peaks of the Dolomites of South Tirol.

Marmolata. . . . . . . . . . 10,972 Pala di San Martino. . . . . . . .9,831 Antelao. . . . . . . . . . . 10,706 Rosengartenspitze. . . . . . . . .9,781 Tofana di Mezzo. . . . . . . 10,633 Marmarole. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,715 Sorapiss . . . . . . . . . . 10,594 Cima di Fradusta . . . . . . . . .9,649 Monte Civetta .. . . . . . . 10,564 Fermedathurm . . . . . . . . . . .9,407 Vernel . . . . . . . . . . . 10,319 Cima d'Asta. . . . . . . . . . . .9,344 Monte Cristallo. . . . . . . 10,496 Cima di Canali . . . . . . . . . .9,338 Cima di Vezzaoa. . . . . . . 10,470 Croda Grande . . . . . . . . . . .9,315 Cimon della Pala . . . . . . 10,453 Vajoletthurm (highest) . . . . . .9,256 Langkofel . . . . . .. . . . 10,427 Sass Maor. . . . . . . . . . . . .9,239 Pelmo . . . . . . . .. . . . 10,397 Cima di Ball . . . . . . . . . . .9,131 Dreischusterspitze . . . . . 10,375 Cima della Madonna Boespitze . . . . . . . . 10,342 (Sass Maor) . . . . . . . . . .9,026 Croda Rossa (Hoher . . . . . 10,329 Rosetta. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,993 Caisl) . . . . . . . . 10,329 Croda da Lago. . . . . . . . . . .8,911 Piz Popena . . . . . . . . . 10,312 Central Grasleitenspitze . . . . .8,875 Elferkofel . . . . . . . . . 10,220 Schlern. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,406 Grohmannspitze . . . . . . . 10,207 Sasso di Mur . . . . . . . . . . .8,380 Zwolferkofel. . . . . . . 10,142 Cima delle Dodici. . . . . . . . .7,671 Sass Rigais(Geislerspitzen). .9,932 Monte Pavione. . . . . . . . . . .7,664 Drei Zinnen . . . . . . . . .9,853 Cima di Posta. . . . . . . . . . .7,333 Kesselkogel (Rosengarten). . .9,846 Monte Pasubio. . . . . . . . . . .7,323 Funffingerspitze. . . . . .9,833

Chief Passes of the Dolomites of South Tirol.

Passo d' Ombretta (Campitello to Caprile), foot path . . . . . . . . . . .8,983 Langhofeljoch (Groden Valley to Campirello), foot path. . . . . . . . .8,803 Tschagerjoch (Karersee to the Vnjolet Glen), foot path . . . . . . . . . .8,675 Crasleiten Pass (Vniolet Glen to thegrasleiten Glen), foot path. . . . . .8,521 Passo di Pravitale (Rosetta Plateau to the Pravitale Glen), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,465 Passo delle Comelle (same to Cencenighe), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . .8,462 Passo della Rosetta (San Martino di Castrozza to the great limestone Rosetta plateau), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,442 Vajolet Pass (Tiers to the Vajolet Glen), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . .8,363 Passo di Canali (Primiero to Agordo), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,193 Tiersalpljochl (Campitello to'I.iers), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . .8,055 Passo di Ball (San Martino di Castrozza to the Pravitale Glen), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,038 Forcella di Giralba (Sexte11 to Auronzo), foot path . . . . . . . . . .7,992 Col dei Bos (F.alzarego Glen to the Travernanzes GIen), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,589 Forcella Grande (San Vito to Auronzo), foot path . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,422 Pordoi Pass (Caprile to Canipitello), carriage road. . . . . . . . . . . .7,382 Sellajoch (Groden Glen to Camphello), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . .7,277 Tre Sassi Pass (Cortina to St Cassian), foot path. . . . . . . . . . . . .7,215 Mahlknechtjoch (Upper Duron Glen to the Seiser Alp), foot path . . . . . .7,113 Grodenerjoch (Groden Glen to Colfuschg), bridle path . . . . . . . .7,011 Falzarego Pass (Caprile to Cortina), small carriage road . . . . . . . . .6,946 Fedaja Pass (Campitello to Caprile), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,713 Passo di Valles (Paneveggio to Cencenighe), foot path. . . . . . . . . . .6,667 Rolle Pass (Predazzo to San Martino di Castrozza and Primiero), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,509 Forcella Forada (Caprile to San Vito), bridle path . . . . . . . . . . . .6,480 Passo di San Pellegrino (Moena to Cencenighe), small carriage, path . .6,267 Forcella d'Alleghe (Alleghe to the Zoldo Glen), foot path. . . . . . . . .5,971 Tre Croci Pass (Cortina to Auronzo), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . .5,932 Karersee or Caressa Pass (WClschenofen to Vigo di Fassa), Ndonte Croce Pass (Innichen and Sexten to the Piave Valley and Belluno), carriage road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,374 Ampezzo Pass (Toblach to Cortina and Belluno), carriage path . . . . . . .5,066 Cereda Pass (Primiero to Agordo), bridle path. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4,501 Toblach Pass (Bruneck to Lienz), railway over. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3,967

18. South-Eastern Alos (east of the Monte Croce Pass). This division includes three small groups, the J ulic, Carnic and Karawankas Alps--each peak and pass being distinguished by one of the initial letters ``J,'' ``C'' or ``K.''

Chief Peaks of the South-Eastern Alps.

Terglou or Triglav (J) . . . . 9,400 Monte Cridola (C). . . . . . . . .8,468 Monte Coglians (C) . . . . . . 9,128 Grintovc (K) . . . . . . . . . . .8,429 Kellerwand (C) . . . . . . . . 9,105 Prestrelenik (J) . . . . . . . . .8,202 Jof del Montasio (J) . . . . . 9,039 Monte Cavallo (C). . . . . . . . .7,386 Cima dei Preti (C) . . . . . . 8,868 Krn (J). . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,369 Monte Paralba (C). . . . . . . 8,829 Stou (K) . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,346 Manhart (J). . . . . . . . . . 8,786 Dobratsch (C). . . . . . . . . . .7,120 Jalouc (J) . . . . . . . . . . 8,711 Velka Kappa (K). . . . . . . . . .5,059 Monte Canin (J). . . . . . . . 8,471

Chief Passes of the South-Eastern Alps.

Oefnerjoch (Forno Avoltri to St Lorenzen in the Gail Valley), foot path (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7,550 Wolayer Pass (same to Mauthen), foot path (C). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,306 Loibl Pass (Klagenfurt to Laibach), carriage road (K). . . . . . . . . . .4,495 Plocken Pass (.Tolmezzo to Mauthen), bridle path (C). . . . . . . . . .4,462 Predil Pass (Villach by d'arvis and Flitsch to Gorz), carriage road (J)3,183 Birnbaumerwald (Laibach to Gorz), carriage road (J) . . . . . . . . . .2,897 Saifnitz or Pontebba Pass (Villach by Tarvis and Pontebba to Udine), railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2,615

Political History and Modern State of the Inhabitants of the Alps.--We know practically nothing of the early dwellers in the Alps, save from the scanty acocunts preserved to us by Roman and Greek historians and geographers. A few details have come down to us of the conquest of many of the Alpine tribes by Augustus, though not much more than their names. The successive emigrations and occupation of the Alpine region by divers Teutonic tribes from the 5th to the 6th centuries are, too, known to us only in outline, while to them, as to the Frankish kings and emperors, the Alps offered a route from one place to another rather than a permanent residence. It is not till the final break up of the Carolingian empire in the 10th and 11th centuries that it becomes possible to trace out the local history of different parts of the Alps.

In the case of the Western Alps (minus the bit from the chain of Mont Blanc to the Simplon, which followed the fortunes of the Valais), a prolonged struggle for the Alpine region took place between the feudal lords of Savoy, the Dauphine and Provence. In 1349 the Dauphine fell to France, while in 1388 the country of Nice passed from Provence to the house of Savoy, which too held Piedmont as well as other lands on the Italian side of the Alps. The struggle henceforth was limited to France and the house of Savoy, but little by France succeeded in pushing back the house of Savoy across the Alps, thus forcing it to become a purely Italian power. One turning-point in the rivalry was the treaty of Utrecht (1713), by which France gave up to Savoy the districts (all forming part of the Dauphine, and lying on the Italian slope of the Alps) of Exilles, Bardonneche, Oulx, U.enestrelles, and Chatean Dauphin, while Savoy handed over to France the valley of Barcelonnette, situated on the western slope of the Alps and forming part of the county of Nice. The final act in the long-continued struggle took place in 1860, when France obtained by cession the rest of the county of Nice and also Savoy, thus remaining sole mistress on the western slope of the Alps.

In the Central Alps the chief event, on the northern side of the chain, is the gradual formation from 1291 to 1815 of the Swiss Confederation, at least so far as regards the mountain Cantons, and with especial reference to the independent confederations of the Grisons and the Valais, which only became full members of the Confederation in 1803 and 1815 respectively. The attraction of the south was too strong for both the Forest Cantons and the Grisons, so that both tried to secure, and actually did secure, various bits of the Milanese. The former, in the 15th century, won the Val Leventina (down which the St Gotthard train now thunders) as well as Bellinzona and the Val Blenio (though the Ossola Valley was held for a time only), while the latter added to the Val Bregaglia (which had been given to the bishop of Coire in 960 by the emperor Otto I.) the valleys of Mesocco and of Poschiavo. Further, in 1512, the Swiss Confederation as a whole won the valleys of Locarno with Lugano, which, combined with the 15th century conquests by the Forest Cantons, were formed in 1803 into the new Canton of Ticino or Tessin. On the other hand, the Grisons won in 1512 the Valtellina, with Bormio and Chiavenna, but in 1797 these regions were finally lost to it as well as to the Swiss Confederation, though the Grisons retained the valleys of Mesocco, Bregaglia and Poschiavo, while in 1762 it had bought the upper bit of the valley of Munster that lies on the southern slope of the Alps.

In the Eastern Alps the political history is almost monotonous, for it relates simply to the advance or retreat of the house of Habsburg, which still holds all but the whole of the northern portion (the exception is the small bit in the north-west that belongs to Bavaria) of that region. The Habsburgers, whose original home was in the lower valley of the Aar, where still stand the ruins of their ancestral castle, lost that district to the Swiss in 1415, as they had previously lost various other bits of what is now Switzerland. But they received a rich compensation in the Eastern Alps (not to speak of the imperial crown), for they there gathered in the harvest that numerous minor dynasties had prepared for them, albeit unconsciously. Thus they won the duchy of Austria with Styria in 1282, Carinthia and Carniola in 1335, Tirol in 1363, and the Vorarlberg in bits from 1375 to 1523, not to speak of minor ``rectifications'' of frontiers on the northern slope of the Alps. But on the other slope their progress was slower, and finally less successful. It is true that they early won Primiero (1373), as well as (1517) the Ampezzo Valley and several towns to the south of Trent. In 1797 they obtained Venetia proper, in 1803 the secularized bishoprics of Trent and Briken (as well as that of Salzburg, more to the north), besides the Valtellina region, and in 1815 the Bergamasque valleys, while the Milanese had belonged to them since 1535. But, as is well known, in 1859 they lost to the house of Savoy both the Milanese and the Bergamasca, and in 1866 Venetia proper also, so that the Trentino is now their chief possession on the southern slope of the Alps. The gain of the Milanese in 1859 by the future king of Italy (1861) meant that Italy then won the valley of Livigno (between the Upper Engadine and Bormio), which is the only important bit it holds on the non-Italian slope of the Alps, besides the county of Tenda (obtained in 1575, and not lost in 1860), with the heads of certain glens in the Maritime Alps, reserved in 1860 for reasons connected with hunting. Thus the Alpine states (Italy, Switzerland and Austria), other than France and Bavaria, hold bits of territory on the slope of the Alps where one would not expect to find them Roughly speaking, in each of these five lands the Alpine population speaks the tongue of the country, though in Italy there are a few French-speaking districts (the Waldensian valleys as well as the Aosta and Oulx valleys) as well as some German-speaking and Ladin-speaking settlements. In Switzerland there are Italian-speaking regions, as well as some spots (in the Grisons) where the old Romance dialect of Romansch or Ladin survives; while in Austria, besides German, Italian and Ladin, we have a Slavonic-speaking population in the South-Eastern Alps. The highest permanently inhabited village in the Alps is Juf, 6998 ft. (Grisons); while in the French Alps, L'Ecot, 6713 ft. (Savoy), and St Veran, 6726 ft. (Dauphine), are rivals; the Italian Alps boast of Trepalle, 6788 ft. (between Livigno and Bormio), and the Tirolese Alps of Ober Gurgl, 6322 ft., and Fend, 6211 ft. (both in the Oetzthal).

8. Exploration of the High Alps.---The higher region of the Alps were long left to the exclusive attention of the men of the adjoining valleys, even when Alpine travellers (as distinguished from Alpine climbers) began to visit these valleys. It is reckcned that about 20 glacier passes were certainly known before 1600. about 25 more before 1700, and yet another score before 1800; but though the attempt of P. A. Arnod (an official of the duchy of Aosta) in 1689 to ``re-open'' the Col du Ceant may be counted as made by a non-native, we do not come upon another case of the kind till the last quarter of the 18th century. Nor did it fare mach better with the high peaks, though the two earliest recorded ascents were due to non-natives, that of the Rochemelon in 1358 having been undertaken in fulfilment of a vow, and that of the Mont Aiguihe in 1492 by order of Charles VIII. of France, in order to destroy its immense reputation for inaccessibility-- in 1555 Conrad Gesner did not climb Pilatus proper, but only the grassy mound of the Gnepfstein, the lowest and the most westerly of the seven summits. The two first men who really systematically explored the regions of ice and snow were H. B. de Saussure (1740-1799), as regards the Pennine Alps, and the Benedictine monk of Disentis, Placidus a Spescha (1752-1833, most of whose ascents were made before 1806), in the valleys at the sources of the Rhine. In the early 19th century the Meyer family of Aarau conquered in person the Jungfrau (1811) and by deputy the Finsteraarhorn (1812), besides opening several glacier passes, their energy being entirely confined to the Bernese Oberland. Their pioneer work was continued in that district, as well as others, by a number of Swiss, pre-eminent among whom were Gottlieb Studer (1804-1890) of Bern, and Edouard Desor (1811-1882) of Neuchatel. The first-known English climber in the Alps was Colonel Mark Beaufoy (1764-1827), who in 1787 made an ascent (the fourth) of Mont Blanc, a mountain to which his fellow-countrymen long exclusively devoted themselves, with a few noteworthy exceptions, such as Principal J. D. Forbes (1809-1868), A. T. Malkin (1803-1888), John Ball (1818-1889), and Sir Alfred Wills (b. 1828). Around Monte Rosa the Vincent family, Josef Zumstein (1783-1861), and Giovanni Gnifetti (1801--1867) did good work during the half century between 1778 and 1842, while in the Eastern Alps the Archduke John (1782-1850), Prince F.J. C. von Schwarzenberg, archbishop of Salzburg (1809-1885), Valentine Stanig (1774-1847), Adolf Schaubach (1800-1850), above all, P. J. Thurwieser (1789-1865), deserve to be recalled as pioneers in the first half of the 19th century. In the early fifties of the 19th century the taste for mountaineering 1apidly developed for several very different reasons. A great stimulus was given to it by the foundation of the various Alpine clubs, each of which drew together the climbers who dwelt in the same country. The first was the English Alpine Club (founded in the winter of 1857--1858), followed in 1862 by the Austrian Alpine Club (which in 1873 was fused, under the name of the German and Austrian Alpine Club, with the German Alpine Club, founded in 1869), in 1863 by the Italian and Swiss Alpine Clubs, and in 1874 by the French Alpine Club, not to mention numerous minor societies of more local character. It was by the members of these clubs (and a few others) that the minute exploration (now all but complete) of the High Alps was carried out, while much has been done in the way of building club huts, organizing and training guides, &c., to smooth the way for later comers, who benefit too by the detailed information published in the periodicals (the first dates from 1863 only) issued by these clubs. Limits of space forbid us to trace out in detail the history of the exploration of the High Alps, but the two sub-joined lists give the dates of the conquest of about fifty of the greater peaks (apart from the two climbed in 1358 and in 1402, see above), achieved before and after 1st January 1858. As a proof of the rapidly-growing activity of Englishmen, it may be pointed out that while before 1858 only four summits (the Mittelhorn, or central peak of the Wetterhorner, the highest point of Monte Rosa, Laquinhorn and Pelmo) were first ascended by Englishmen, in the case of the second list only five (Grand Combin, Wildspitze, Marmolata, Langkofel and Meije) were not so conquered (if the present writer, an American, be included among the English pro hac vice.)

(1) Before 1st January 1858:---Titlis (1744), Ankogel (1762), Mont Velan (1779), Mont Blanc (1786), Rheinwaldhorn (1789), Gross Glockner (1800), Ortler (1804), Jungfrau (1811), V.insteraarhorn (1812), Zumsteinspitze (1820),Todi (1824), Altels (1834), Piz Linard (1835), Gross Venediger (1841), Signalkuppe (1842), Wetterhorner (1844-1845), Mont Pelvoux (1848), Ieiablerets and Piz Bernina (both in 1850), highest point of Monte Rosa (1855), Laquinhorn (1856) and Pelmo (1857).

(2) After 1st January 1858:--Dom (1858), Aletschhorn, Bietschhorn and Grand Combin (all in 1859), Grand Paradis and Grande Casse (both in 1860), Wbisshorn, Monte Viso, Gross Schreckhorn, Lyskamm and Wildspitze (all in 1861), Dent Blanche, Monte della Disgrazia and Taschhorn (all in 1862), Marmolata, Presanella, Pointe des Ecrins and Zinal Rothhorn (all in 1864), Matterhorn, Ober Gabelhorn, Aiguille Verte and Piz Roseg (all in 1865), Langkofel (1869), Cimon della Pala (1870), Rosengarten (1872), Meije (1877), Aiguilledu Dru (1878), Punta dell' Argentera (1879), Aiguille des Charmoz (1880), Aiguille de Grepon (1881) and Aiguille du Geant (1882).

9. GENERAL LIST OF BOOKS AND MAPS.--(1) Books.---For a longer list than we can give see sohn Ball's Hints and Notes for Travellers in the Alps (new ed., 1899) and also A. Wuber's Landes- und Reisebeschreibungen der Schwelz (1899, supplement in 1907). in general see s. Ball's The Alpine Guide (3 vols., new ed. of vol. i., 1898 last ed. of vol. ii., 1876, and of vol. iii., 1879); H. A. Berlepsch, Die Alpen in Natur- und Lebensbildern (last ed., 1885, Eng. trans., 1861); T. G. Bonney, The Alpine Regions of Switzerland and the Neighbouring Countries (1868); A. Civiale, Les Alpes au point de vue de ta geographie physique (1882); Sir Martin Conway, The Alps (1904); W. A. B. Coolidge, Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide-Books (1889) and The Alps (1908); R. von Lendenfeld, Aus den Alpen (2 vols., 1896); C. Lentheric, L'Homme devant les Alpes (1896); F. Umlauft, Die Alpen (1887, Eng. trans., 1889). On some special subjects see W. A. Baillie-Grohmann, Sport in the Alps i1896); A. Mosso. Fisiologia dell' Uomo sulle Alpi (1897, English trans., 1898); N. Zuntz and others, Hohenklima und Bergwanderungen in ihrer Wirkungen auf den Menschen (1906); G. Perndt, Der Fohn (1896, the south wind, so important in mountain districts); and the article on GLACIER..''

As to Alpine legends, consult Maria Savi-Lopez, Leggende delle Alpi (1889); M. Tscheinen, VLalliscr-Sagen (1872); Th. Vernaleken, Alpensagen (1858); and I. V. Zingerle, Sagen aus Tirol (1859); and as to Alpine poetry--J. Adam, Der Natursinn in der deutschen Dichtung (1906); E. A. Baker and F. E. Ross, The Voice of The Mountalns (1905, an anthology in verse and prose); A. von Haller, Die Alpen (1732, first ed., 1882, illustrated ed., 1902); and H. E. Jenny, Die Alpendichtung in der deutschen Schweiz (1905).

As to Alpine dialects, consult J. Alton, Die ladinischen Idiome in Ladinien, Groden, Fassa, Buchenstein, Ampezzo (1879); J. A. Chabrand and A. de Rochas d'Aiglun, Patois des Alpes cottiennes (1877).; Z. and E. Pallioppi, Dizionari dels Idioms Romauntschs d'Engiadina ota e bassa, &c. (1895); A. Socin, Schriftsprache und Dialekte im Deutschen (1888); F. J. Stalder, Die Landessprachen der Schweiz (1819), and J. Zimmerli, Die deutsch-franzosische Sprachgrenze in der Schweiz (3 vols., 1891-1899); besides the great Swiss Dialect Dictionary (Schweiz. Idiotikon) in course of publication since 1881.

As to the history of the Alps, the following works touch on various aspects of the subject:---G. Allais, Le Alpi Occidentali nell' Antichita 1891); W. Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps (2 vols., 1828-1829); J. Grand-Carteret, La Montagne a travers les ages (2 vols., 1902-1904); G. Oberziner, Le Guerre di Augusto contro i populi alpini (1900); E. Oehlmann, Die Alpenpasse im Mittelalter (1878-1879); R. Peinhard, Passe und Strassen in den Schweizer Alpen (1903); and L. Vaccarone, Le Vie delle Alpi Occidentali negli antichi tempi (1884); while W. A. B. Coolidge's Joslas Simler et les originies de l'alpinisme Jusqu'en 1600 (1904) summarises our knowledge of the Alps up to 1600.

Among works of a more or less descriptive nature (based on actual travels), the following list includes all the standard works dated before 1855:--Le Alpi che cingono l'Italia (1845); J. G. Altmann, Versuch einer hist. u. phys. Beschreibung der helvetischen Eisbergen (1751); A. C. Bordier, Voyage pittoresque aux glacieres de Savoye (173); P. J. de Bourcet, Memoires militaires sur les Jrontieres de la France, du Piemont, et de la Savoie (1801); M. T. Bourrit, Descrip non des glacieres, glaciers, et amas de glace du duche de Savoye (1773, Eng. trans., 1775), Description des Alpes pennines et rhetiennes (2 vols., 178i, 3rd vol., 1785), and Descriptioni des cols ou passages des Alpes (2 vols., 1803); W. Brockedon, Journals of Excursions in the Alps (1833); U. Campell, Raetioe alpestris topographica descriptio (finished in 1572, but publ. only in 1884, with a supplement in 1900); J. A. Deluc and P. G. Dentan, Relation de differents voyages dans les Alpes du Faucigny (1776); E. Desor Excursions et sejours dans les glaciers (2 series, 1844-1845l; C. M. Engelhardt, Naturschilderungen aus den hochsten Schweizer-Alpen (1840), and Das Monte-Rosa und Matterhorn-Gebirg (1852); J. D. Forbes, Travels through the Alps of Kivoy (1843: new ed., 1900): Sir John Forbes, A Physician's Holiday (1849); J. Frobel, Reise in die weniger bekannten Thaler auf der Nordseite der penninischen Alpen (1840); G. Gnifetti, Nozioni topografiche del Monte Rosa ed ascensioni su di esso (1845, 2nd ed., 1838); G. S. Gruner, Die Eisgebirge des Schwelzerlandes (3 vols., 1760); J. Hegetschweiler, Reisen in den Gebirgsstock zwischen Glarus und Graubunden, 1819--1822 (1825); G. Hoffmann, Wanderungen in der Gletscherwelt (1843); F. J. Hugi, Naturhistorische Alpenreise (1830); C. J. Latrobe, The Alpenstock (1829) and The Pedestrian (1832); J. R. and H. Meyer, Reise auf den Jungjfrau-Gletscher und Ersteigung seines Gipfels (1811): De Montannel, La Topographic militaire de la frontiere des Alpes (written in 1777, but publ. in 1875 only); Operations geodesiques et astroniomiques pour la mesure d'un arc du parallele moyen (2 vols., 1825-1827); H. R. Rebmann, Ein poetisch Gastmal und Gesprach zweyer Bergen, nemlich des Niesens und Stockhorns (1606); C. Rohrdorf, Reise uber die Grindelwald-Vescher-Gletscher und Ersteigung des Gletschers des Jungfrau-Berges (1828); H. B. de Saussure, Voyages dans les Alpes (4 vols., 1779-1796); A. Schaubach, Deutsche Alpen (4 vols., 1845-1847); J. J. Scheuchzer, Helvetiae Stoicheiographia, Orographia, et Oreographia (1716), and Itinera per Helvetiae alpinas regiones facta annis 1702-1711 (4 vols., 1725); J. Simler. Vallesiae Descriptio et de Alpibus Commentarius (1574, new ed. in 1904, see Coolidge above); Albert Smith, The Story of Mont Blanc (1853); G. Studer, Topographische Mitteilungen aus dem Alpengebirge (1843); R. Topffer, Voyages en zigzag (2 series, 1844 and 1853); Aegid. Tschudi, De prisca ac vera alpina Rhaetia (1538, also in German, same date); and L. von Weldon, Der Monte Rosa (1824).

As to works published after 1855 we can only give a short, though carefully selected, list. C. Aeby and others, Das Hochgebirge von Grindelwald (1865); W. A. Baillie-Grohmann, Tyrol and the Tyrolese (1876), and Gaddings with a Primitive People (2 vols., 1878); H. von Barth, Aus den nordlichen Kalkalpen (1874); L. Barth and L. Pfaundler, Die Stubaiergebirgsgruppe (1863); G. F. Browne, Off the Mill (1895); Mrs H. W. Cole, A Lady's Tour round Monte Rosa (1859); E. T. Coleman, Scenes from the Snow Fields (1859); Sir Marrin Conway, The Alps from End to End (1895); A. Daudet, Tartarin sur les Alpes (1885, Eng. trans., same date); C. T. Dent, Above the Snow Line (1883); Miss A. B. Edwards, Untrodden Peaks and Unfrequented Valleys (1873, Dolomites); Max Forderreuther, Die Allgauer Alpen (1906); D. W. Freshfield, Across Country from Thonon to Trent (1865), and Italian Alps (1875); Mrs Henry Freshfield, Alpine Byways (1861), and A Summer Tour in the Grisons (1862); H. B. George, The Oberland and its Glaciers (1866); J. Gilbert and G. C. Churchill, The Dolomite Mountains (1854); A. G. Girdlestone, The High Alps without Guides (1870); P. Grohmann, Wanderungen in den Dolomiten (1877); P. Gussfeldt, In den Hochalpen (1886), and Der Montblanc (1894); T. W. Hinchliff, Summer Months among the Alps (1857); C. Hudson and E. S. Kennedy, Where there's a Will there's a Way (1856); E. Javelle, Souvenirs d' un Alpiniste (1886, Eng. trans., 1899); S. W. King, The Italian Valleys of the Pennine Alps (1858); Le V'alli di Lanzo (publ. by the Italian Alpine Club in 1899); A. Lorria and E. A. Mariel, Le Mossif de la Bernina (1894); J. Michelet, La Montagne (1868, Eng. trans., 1872); A. W. Moore, The Alps in 1864 (1867, publ. ed., 1902); A. F. Mummery, My Climbs in the Alps (1895); Norman-Neruda, The Climbs of (1899); Peaks, Passes and Glaciers (3 vols., 1859-1862); L. Purtscheller, Uber Fels und Firn (1901); E. Rambert, Ascensions et flaneries (2 vols., 1888); G. Rey, Il Monte Cervino (1904); John Ruskin, vol. iv. (On Mountain Beauty) of Modern Painters (1856); A. von Ruthner, Aus den Tauern (1864) and Aus Tirol (1869); V. Sella and D. Vallino, Monte Rosa e Gressoney (1890); F. Simony, Das Dachsteingebict (1889-1896); L. Sinigaglia, Climbing Reminiscences of the Dolomites (1896); K. von Sonklar, Die Oetzthaler Gebirgsgruppe (1860), and Die Glebirgsgruppe der Hohen-Tauern (1866); Sir L. Stephen, The Playground of Europe (1871); B. Studer, Geschichte der physischen Geographie der Schweiz bis 1815 (1863); G. Studer and others, Berg- und Gletscherfahrten (2 series, 1859 and 1863); G. Theobald, Naturbilder aus den rhatischen Alpen (1860), and Das Bundner Oberland (1861); F. F. Tuckett, Hochalpenstudien (2 vols., 1873-1874); Miss L. Tuckett, How we Spent the Summer (1864), Pictures in Tyrol (1867), and Zigzagging amongst Dolomites (1871); J. Tyndall, The Glaciers of the Alps (1860), Mountaineering in 1861 (1862), and Hours of Exercise in the Alps (1871); J. J. Weilenmann, Aus der Firnenwelt (3 vols., 1872-1877); E. Whymper, Scrambles amongst the Alps (1871); Sir A. Wills, Wanderings among the High Alps (1856), and The ``Eagle's Nest''in the Valley of Sixt (1860); G. Yeld, Scrambles in the Eastern Graians (1900); H. Zschokke, Reise auf die Eisgebirge des Kantons Bern und Ersteigung ihrer hochsten Gipfel im Sommer von 1812 (1813); E. Zsigmondy, Im Hochgebirge (1889); M. Zurbriggen, From the Alps to the Andes (1899).

Many useful practical hints as to climbing are to be found in C. T. Dent and others, Mountaineering (1892, 3rd ed., 1900, ``Badminton Library''); the Manuel d'Alpinisme (1904, publ. by the French Alpine Club); J. Meurer, Handbuch der alpinen Sport 1882), Katechismus fur Bergsteiger (1892), and Der Bergsteiger im Hochgebirge (1893); .and C. Wilson, Mountaineering (1893, ``All England'' series). As regards the dangers of Alpine climbing consult C. Fiorio and C. Ratti, I Pericoli dell' Alpinismo (1889), and E. Zsigmondy, Die Gefahren der Alpen (1885, Fr. trans., 1889). There are also special guide-books for the use of climbers in the Alps---the ``Climbers' Guides'' series, edited by Sir Martin Conway and W. A. B. Coolidge (10 vols., 1890--1894); W. A. B. Coolidge, H. Duhamel and F. Perrin, Guide du Haut Dauphine (1887, with supplement in 1890, Eng. trans., 1892 and 1905); L. Purtscheller and H. Hess, Der Hochtourist in den Ostalpen (2 vols., 1894, 3 vols., 3rd ed., 1903); the 3 vols. publ. (1902-1905) by the Swiss Alpine Club under the name of Clubfuhrer to the Alps of Glarus and Uri, and V. Wolf von Glanvell, Dolomitenfuhrer (1898).

As regards the early history of Alpine exploration consult W. A. B. Coolidge, Josias Simler et les origines de l'alpinisme jusqu'en 1600 (1904), and F. Gribble, The Early Mountaineers (1899). For the later period see, besides the more general works of travel mentioned above, the publications (that date from 1863) of the various Alpine Clubs--the Alpine Journal (English A. C.), the Annuaire, Bulletin, La Montagne, and Revue alpine (French A. C.), the Jahrbuch, Mitteilungen, Verhandlungen, and Zeitschrift (German and Austrian A. C.), the Alpinista, Bollettino, and Rivista Mensile (Italian A. C.), and the Alpina, Echo des Alpes, Jahrbuch, Schweizer Alpen-Zeitung (Swiss A. C.), besides those of the smaller societies, such as the Osterreichische Alpen-Zeitung (Austrian A. C.), the Annuaire (Societe des Touristes du Dauphine), and the Anunuario (Societa degli Alpinisti Tridentini). Summaries of the Alpine history of the three great divisons of the Alps are given in (W. Alps) L. Vaccarone, Statistica delle Prime Ascensioni nelle Alpi Occidentali (3rd. ed., 1890--this work omits the Dauphine Alps, as to which see the 1887 work or its Eng. version 1905, mentioned above); (Central and Swiss Alps) G. Studer, Uber Eis und Schnee (2nd ed. 3 vols., 1896-1899); and (E. Alps) G. Groger and J. Rabi, Die Entwickelung der Hochtouristik in den osterreichischen Alpen (1890), and E. Pichter, Die Erschliessung der Ostalpen (3 vols., 1894). The detailed history of Mont Blanc has been written by Ch. Durier, Le Mont Blanc (1877, 4th ed., 1897), and C. E. Mathews, The Annals of Mont Blanc (1898). Lives of some of the most celebrated mountain guides have been written in C. D. Cunningham and W. de W. Abney, Pioneers of the Alps (2nd ed., 1888).

(2) Maps--There is no good modern and fairly large-scale map of the entire chain of the Alps. But L. Ravenstein's maps (scale 1:250,000) of the Swiss Alps (2 sheets) and of the Eastern Alps (8 sheets) include the whole chain, save that portion south of the range of Mont Blanc.

All the countries which include Alpine districts have now issued official Government maps. The French map on a scale of 1:80,000 is clearer and more accurate than that on a scale of 1:100,000. The Italian Government has published maps on scales of 1:50,000 and 1:100,000. the Austrian on a scale of 1:75,000, and the Bavarian on a scale of 1:50,000. But the most splendid Government map of all is that put forth by the Swiss Federal Topographical Bureau, under the title of Siegfried Atlas (scale 1:50,000 for the Alpine districts), which has quite superseded the Dufour Map (scale 1:100,000), the history of which was published in 1896. For maps of the Swiss Alps and their neighbours, see J. H. Graf, Literatur der Lalndesvermessung (1896 with a supplement).

A few of the best special maps of certain districts may be mentioned-- such as H. Duhamel's maps of the Dauphine Alps (4 sheets on a scale of 1:i oo,ooo, 1889, 2nd ed., 1892), and that of the range of Mont Blanc (scale 1:50,000, 1896, 2nd ed., 1905), by X. Imfeld and L. Kurz. The German and Austrian Alpine Club is publishing a very fine set of maps (scale 1:50,000) of the Eastern Alps, which are clearer and better than the Austrian Government's Topographische Detailkarten (11 sheets, scale 1:50,000). (W.. A. B. C.)

10. Geology.---The Alps form but a small portion of a great zone of crumpling which stretches, in a series of curves, from the Atlas Mountains to the Himalayas. Within this zone the crust of the earth has been ridged up into a comolex system of creases or folds, out of which the great mountain chains of southern Europe and Asia have been carved by atmospheric agencies. Superficially, the continuity of the zone is broken at intervals by gaps of greater or less extent; but these are due, in part at least, to the subsidence of portions of the folded belt and their subsequent burial by more recent accumulations. Such a gap is that between the Alps and the Carpathians, but a glance at a geological map of the region will show that the folding was probably at one time continuous. Leaving, however, the larger question of the connexion between the great mountain ranges of Europe and Asia, we find that the Alps are formed cf a series of wrinkles or folds, one behind another, frequently arranged en echelon. The folds run, in general, in the direction of the chain, and together they form an arc around the plain of Lombardy and Piedmont. Outside this arc lies a depression along which the waters of the upper Danube and the lower Rhone find their way towards the sea; and beyond rise the ancient crystalline masses of Bohemia, the Black Forest and the central plateau of France, together with the intervening Mesozoic beds of southern Germany and the Jura. The depression is filled by Miocene and later beds, which for the most part lie flat and undisturbed as they were laid down. Beyond the depression also, excepting in the Jura Mountains, there is no sign of the folding which has raised the Alpine chain. Some of the older beds indeed are crumpled, but the folding is altogether different in age and in direction from that of the Alps.

To assist in forming a clear idea of the relations of the Alps to the surrounding regions, a simple illustration will suffice. Upon a table covered by a cloth lay two books in the relative positions shown in figure. The book A represents the central plateau of France and the book B represents the rocks of Bohemia and southern Germany. If the two hands be placed flat upon the table, in the angle between the two books, and the cloth pushed towards the corner, it will at once be rucked up into a fold which will follow a curve not unlike that of the Alps. The precise character and form of the folds produced will depend upon the nature of the cloth and other accidental circumstances; but with a little adjustment not only a representation of the chain of the Alps, but even a subsidiary fold in front in the position of the Jura Mountains may be obtained. Imperfect though this illustration may be, it will serve to explain the modern conception of the forces concerned in the formation of the Alps. Within the crust of the earth, whether by the contraction of the interior or in any other way, tangential pressures were set up. Since the crust is not of uniform strength throughout, only the weaker portions yielded to the pressure; and these were crumpled up against the more resisting portions and sometimes were pushed over them. In the case of the Alps it seems natural enough that the crystalline masses of Bohemia, the Black Forest and the central plateau of France should be firmer than the more modern sedimentary deposits; but it is not so easy to understand why the Mesozoic rocks of southern Germany resisted the folding, while those of the Jura yielded. It should, however, be borne in mind that the resisting mass is not necessarily at the surface. Such is in outline the process by which the Alps were elevated; but when the chain is examined in detail, it is found that its history has not been uniform throughout; and it will be convenient, for purposes of description, to divide it into three portions, which may be called the Eastern Alps, the Swiss Alps, and the Western Alps.

The Eastern Alps consist of a central mass of crystalline and schistose rocks flanked on each side by a zone of Mesozoic beds andon the north by an outer band of Tertiary deposits. On the Italian side there is usually no zone of folded Tertiaries and the Mesozoic band forms the southern border of the chain. Each of these zones is folded within itself, and the folding is more intense on the Bavarian side than on the Italian, the folds often leaning over towards the north. The Tertiary zone of the northern border is of especial significance and is remarkable for its extent and uniformity. It is divided longitudinally into an outer zone of Molasse and an inner zone of Flysch. The line of separation is very clearly defined; nowhere does the Molasse pass beyond it to the south and nowhere does the Flysch extend beyond it to the north. The Molasse, in the neighbourhood of the mountains, consists chiefly of conglomerates and sandstones, and the Flysch consists of sandstones and shales; but the Molasse is of Miocene and Oligocene age, while the Flysch is mainly Eocene. The relations of the two series are never normal. Along the line of contact, which is often a fault, the oldest beds of the Molasse crop out, and they are invariably overturned and plunge beneath the Flysch. A few miles farther north these same beds rise again to the surface at the summit of an anticlinal which runs parallel to the chain. Beyond this point all signs of folding gradually cease and the beds he flat and undisturbed.

The Flysch is an extraordinarily thick and uniform mass of sandstones and shales with scarcely any fossils excepting fucoids. It is intensely folded and is constantly separated from the Mesozoic zone by a fault. Throughout the whole extent of the Eastern Alps it is strictly limited to the belt between this fault and the marginal zone of Molasse. Eocene beds, indeed, penetrate farther within the chain, but these are limestones with nummulites or lignite-bearing shales and have nothing in common with the Flysch. But although the Flysch is so uniform in character, and although it forms so well defined a zone, it is not everywhere of the same age. In the west it seems to be entirely Eocene, but towards the east intercalated beds with Inoceramus, &c., indicate that it is partly of Cretaceous age. It is, in fact, a facies and nothing more. The most probable explanation is that the Flysch consists of the detritus washed down from the hills upon the flanks of which it was formed. It bears, indeed, very much the same relation to the Alps that the Siwalik beds of India bear to the Himalayas.

The Mesozoic belt of the Bavarian and Austrian Alps consists mainly of the Trias, Jurassic and Cretaceous beds playing a comparatively subordinate part. But between the Trias of the Eastern Alps and the Trias of the region beyond the Alpine folds there is a striking contrast. North of the Danube, in Germany as in England, red sandstones, shales and conglomerates predominate, together with beds of gypsum and salt. It was a continental formation, such as is now being formed within the desert belt of the globe. Only the Muschelkalk, which does not reach so far as England, and the uppermost beds, the Rhaetic, contain fossils in any abundance. The Trias of the Eastern Alps, on the other hand, consists chiefly of great masses of limestone with an abundant fauna, and is clearly of marine origin. The Jurassic and Cretaceous beds also differ, though in a less degree, from those of northern Europe. They consist largely of limestone; but marls and sandstones are by no means rare, and there are considerable gaps in the succession indicating that the region was not continuously beneath the sea. Tithonian fossils, characteristic of southern Europe, occur in the upper Jurassic, while the Gosau beds, belonging to the upper Cretaceous, contain many of the forms of the Hippuritic sea. Nevertheless, the difference between the deposits on the two sides of the chain shows that the central ridge was dry land during at least a part of the period.

The central zone of crystalline rock consists chiefly of gneisses and schists, but folded within it is a band of Palaeozoic rocks which divides it longitudinally into two parts. Palaeozoic beds also occur along the northern and southern margins of the crystalline zone. The age of a great part of the Palaeozoic belts is somewhat uncertain, but Permian, Carboniferous, Devonian and Silurian fossils have been found in various parts of the chain, and it is not unlikely that even the Cambrian may be represented.

The Mesozoic belt of the southern border of the chain extends from Lago Maggiore eastwards. Jurassic and Cretaceous beds play a larger part than on the northern border, but the Trias still predominates. On the west the belt is narrow, but towards the east it gradually widens, and north of Lago di Garda its northern boundary is suddenly deflected to the north and the zone spreads out so as to include the whole of the Dolomite mountains of Tirol. The sudden widening is due to the great Judicaria fault, which runs from Lago d'Idro to the neighbourhood of Meran, where it bends round to the east. The throw of this fault may be as much as 2000 metres, and the drop is on its south-east side, i.e. towards the Adriatic. It is probable, indeed, that the fault took a large share in the formation of the Adriatic depression. On the whole, the Mesozoic beds of the southern border of the Alps point to a deeper and less troubled sea than those of the north. Clastic sediments are less abundant and there are fewer breaks in the succession. The folding, moreover, is less intense; but in the Dolomites of Tirol there are great outbursts of igneous rock, and faulting has occurred on an extensive scale.

Swiss Alps.

West of a line which runs from Lake Constance to Lago Maggiore the zones already described do not continue with the same simplicity. The zone of the Molasse is little changed, but the Flysch is partly folded in the Mesozoic belt and no longer forms an absolutely independent band. The Trias has almost disappeared, and what remains is not of the marine type characteristic of the Eastern Alps but belongs rather to the continental facies which occurs in Germany and France. Jurassic and Cretaceous beds form the greater part of the Mesozoic band. On the southern side of the chain the Mesozoic zone disappears entirely a little west of Lago Maggiore and the crystalline rocks rise directly from the plain.

Perhaps the strangest problem in the whole of Switzerland is that presented by the so-called Klippen. Within the Alps, when normally developed, we may trace the individual folds for long distances and observe how they arise, increase and die out, to be replaced by others of similar direction. But at times, within or on the border of the northern Eocene trough, the continuity of the folds is suddenly broken by mountain masses of quite different constitution. These are the Klippen, and they are especially important in the Chablais and between the Lakes of Geneva and Thun. Not only is the folding of the Klippen wholly independent of that of the zone in which they lie, but the rocks which form them are of foreign facies. They consist chiefly of Jurassic and Triassic beds, but it is the Trias and the Jura of the Eastern Alps and not of Switzerland. Moreover, although they interrupt the folding of the zone in which they occur, they do not disturb it: they do not, in fact, rise through the zone, but lie upon it like unconformable masses -- in other words, they rest upon a thrust-plane. Whence they have come into their present position is by no means clear; but the character of the beds which form them indicates a distant origin. It is interesting to note, in this connexion, that the pebbles of the Swiss Molasse are not generally such as would be derived from the neighbouring mountains, but resemble the rocks of the Eastern Alps. The Klippen are, no doubt, the remains of a much larger mass brought into the region upon a thrust-plane, and much of the Molasse has been derived from its destruction. Although the explanation here given of the origin of the Swiss Klippen is that which now is usually accepted, it should be mentioned that other theories have been proposed to account for their peculiarities.

Western Alps.

In the Western Alps the outer border of Molasse persists; but it no longer forms so well-defined a zone, and strips are infolded amongst the older rocks. The Eocene has altogether lost its independence as a band and occurs only in patches within the Mesozoic zone. The latter, on the other hand, assumes a greater importance and forms nearly the whole of the subalpine ranges. It consists almost entirely of Jurassic and Cretaceous beds, the Trias in these outer ranges being of very limited extent. The main chain is formed chiefly of crystalline and schistose rocks, which on the Italian side rise directly from the plain without any intervening zone of Mesozoic beds. But it is divided longitudinally by a well-marked belt of stratified deposits, known as the zone of the Brianconnais, composed chiefly of Carboniferous, Triassic and Jurassic beds. The origin of the schistose rocks has long been under discussion, and controversy has centred more particularly around the schistes lustres, which are held by some to be of Triassic age and by others to be pre-Carboniferous and even, perhaps, Archaean. Partly in consequence of the uncertainty as to the age of these and other rocks, there is considerable difference of opinion as to the structure of the Western Alps. According to the view most widely accepted in France the main chain as a whole forms a fan, the folds on the eastern side leaning towards Italy and those on the western side towards France. The zone of the Brianconnais lies in the middle of the fan.

Asymmetry of the Alps.

From the above account it will at once appear that between the convex and the concave margins of the Alpine chain there is a striking difference. Upon the outer side of the arc the central zone of crystalline rocks is flanked by Mesozoic and Tertiary belts; towards the west, indeed, the individuality of these belts is lost, to a large extent, but the rocks remain. Upon the inner side the Tertiary band is found only in the eastern part of the chain, while towards the west, first the Tertiary and then the Mesozoic band disappears against the modern deposits of the low land. The appearance is strongly suggestive of faulting; and probably the southern margin of the chain lies buried beneath the plain of northern Italy.

Age of the Alps.

The chain of the Alps was not raised by a single movement nor in a single geological period. Its growth was gradual and has not been uniform throughout. In the Eastern Alps the central ridge seems to have been in existence at least as early as Triassic times, but it has since been subject to several oscillations. The most conspicuous folding, that of the Mesozoic and Tertiary belts, must have occurred in Tertiary times, and it was not completed till the Miocene period. The structure of the zones in the Bavarian Alps seems to suggest that the chain grew outwards in successive stages, each stage being marked by the formation of a boundary fault. A precisely similar structure is seen in the Himalayas.

AUTHORITIES. -- The literature is very extensive. The following list includes a few selected works on each portion of the chain: -- F. Frech, ``Die karnischen Alpen,'' Abh. naturf Ges Halle, xviii (1892 and 1894); A. Rothpletz, Ein geologischer Querschnitt durch die Ost-Alpen (Stuttgart, 1894); C. Diener, ``Bru und Bild der Ostalpen unrides Karstgebietes,'' in Bau und Bild Osterreichs (Vienna and Leipzig, 1903): Livret-guide geologique dans le Jura et les Alpes de la Suisse (Paris and Lausanne, 189h); A. Helm, Mechanismus der Gebirgsbildung (Basel, 1878); D. Zaccagna, ``Riassunto di osservauoni geologiche fatte sul versante occidentale delle Alpi Graie,'' Boll. R. Com. Geol. Ital. vol. xxiii. (1892), pp. 175-244; C. Diener, Der Glebirpsbau der West-Alpen (1894); M. Bertrand, ``Etudes dans les Alpes francaises,'' Bull. Soc. Geol France, ser. 5, vol. xxii (1894), pp. 69-162; S. Franchi, ``Sull' eta mesozoica della zona delle pietri verdi nelle Alpi Occidentali,'' Boll. R. Geol. Ital. vol. xxix. (1898), pp. 173-217, 325-482, pts. v.-ix. For the broader question of the relation of the Alps to other regions, E. Suess, Das Antlitz der Erde Vienna, 1885) (English translation, Oxford, 1904) should be consulted. The Geologischer Fuhrer durch die Alpen, published by Borntraeger, Berlin, are handy guides. (P. LA.)

11. Flora. -- The Alps owe the richness and beauty of their plant life partly to their position as the natural boundary between the ``Baltic'' flora on the north and the ``Mediterranean'' flora on the south, but chiefly to the presence on their heights of a third flora which has but little in common with either of the others. The stronghold of this last, the distinctively ``Alpine'' flora, is the region above the tree-limit. Its closest relationship is with the flora of the Pyrenees; but an alpine flora is characteristic of all the lofty mountains of central Europe. According to J. Ball, 2010 well-marked species of flowering plants occur within the limits of the Alps. If now we confine our attention to the alpine and higher regions of the Alps and exclude from our list all those plants which, however abundant in these regions, are not less so in the adjacent lowlands, we have left some 700 species (693, according to Dr Christ). We must observe, as regards the plants of the lower alpine region, that it is the actual presence of a forest vegetation, rather than the theoretical tree-limit, which affects their vertical distribution; so that, e.g. they overflow into the extensive clearings made by man in the primeval mountain forests. Indeed, an analysis of the composition of the alpine flora as a whole leads to the conclusion that the chief bond of union between its members consists in the treeless character of their habitat.

We may broadly distinguish two main geographical elements in the alpine flora, namely, the northern element and the endemic element. This division (which is not, however, strictly exhaustive) directs special attention to what is undoubtedly the most striking feature of the flora -- namely, that of its 693 species no less than 271 reappear in the extreme north. This relation of the arctic to the alpine flora is all the more remarkable in view of the very important differences between the arctic and alpine climates. The following circumpolar species are common, and widely diffused throughout the whole of the Alps: Silene acaulis, Dryas octopetala, Saxifsaga oppositifolia, S. aizoides, S. steliaris, Erigeron alpinus, Azalea procumbens, M. yosotis alpestris, Polygonum viviparum, Salix retusa, S. herbacea, Phleum alpinum, Juniperus nana. The proportion of northern forms, as regards both species and individuals, increases as we ascend to the higher regions. In the highest vegetation-zone, the snow-region -- i.e. on islands of rock above the snow-line -- they attain to an equality with the endemic forms. As examples of northern flowers which are characteristic of the snow-region, we may mention Silene acaulis, Eritrichium nanuin and Arenaria ciliata. On the other hand, typical endemic species of this highest zone are Androsace helvetica, A. glacialis, Petrocallis pyrenaica and Cherleria sedoides. All the plants just named, we may observe, are ``cushion-plants.'' Their compact, moss-like growth and general structural peculiarities are not an expression of mutual affinity, but are in adaptation to the combined cold and dryness of their habitat. It is noteworthy that among the northern plants of the alpine zone, in the narrower sense of the term (i.e. of the region between the tree-limit and the snow-line), there is a marked predominance of species that affect moist localities; and conversely, the majority of alpine flowers of wet habitat are found also in the north. For example, in the genus Primula, a highly characteristic genus of the alpine flora, whose members are among the most striking ornaments of the rocks, the single northern species, P. Jarinosa, grows only in marshy meadows. On the whole, then, adaptation to cold and wet is the note of the northern element.

As for the explanation of the community between the alpine and arctic floras, all authorities are agreed that the key to the problem is furnished by the occurrence of the glacial period. In the ice-free belt, between the northern ice-sheet and the vastly extended glaciers of the Alps, the two floras must have found a common refuge and congenial conditions of existence; and this view is confirmed by direct palaeontological evidence. With the return of a milder climate, the so-called northern forms of the present alpine flora were split in two, one portion following close on the northern ice in its gradual retreat to the Arctic, the other following the shrinking glaciers till the plants were able to establish (or re-establish) themselves on the slopes of the Alps. The same explanation covers the case of the similarity of the flora (not merely as regards the northern element) on all the high mountains of central Europe. So much seems to be beyond reasonable doubt. But at this point disagreement begins between the most eminent writers on the subject. While some (e.g. Sir J. D. Hooker, Heer) regard the Arctic, and some (e.g. Wettstein) the Alps, as the original home of at least the bulk of the ``northern'' element, others (e.g. Ball, Christ) locate this in the highlands of temperate Asia. For it is a remarkable fact that, of the 230 northern species which are most typical of the far north, 182 are found also in the Altai (taking this as a collective name for the mountains that form the southern boundary of Siberia). In any case, however, the migration of these plants to the Alps must for the most part have taken place via the Arctic. The possibility of any extensive east to west migration having taken place direct from the Altai to the Alps seems excluded by the fact that 50% of the arctico-altaic alpine plants are absent from the Caucasus. A score of species, it is true -- not such a number, be it observed, as was formerly supposed -- are common to the Alps and Altai, but absent from the Arctic. But the species composing this Altaic element are not so numerous as the arctico-alpine species that are absent from the Altai. On the whole, a common origin in the north for at least the arctico-altaic group of alpine plants seems to be the most reasonable hypothesis.

Side by side with the northern element (which in some respects, we may observe to point the contrast, would be better named the tundra-element) we find a group of species usually spoken of as the xerothermic or meridional element. These do not, however, form an ``element,'' in the strict geographical sense in which this term is otherwise used here. They are those species which, on general phyto-geographical grounds, must be regarded as having originated under steppe-like conditions. Their affinities are chiefly, though not exclusively, with the present Mediterranean flora -- about fifty are of presumably Mediterranean origin -- and a large proportion of them are restricted to the southern slopes of the Alps. The following, however, among others, are distributed throughout the whole, or a great part, of the range: Colchicum alpinain, Crocus vernus, Orchis globosa, Petroeallis pyrenaica, Astragalus depressus, A. aristatus, Oxytropis Halleri, Erynigium alpinum, Erica carnea, Linaria alpina, Globularia nudicaulis, G. cordifolia, Leontopodium alpinum. The last named (the well-known ``edelweiss'') is at the present day characteristic of the Siberian steppes. The presence of these plants among the alpine flora is traceable to the steppe-like conditions which prevailed in central Europe both during the warmer inter-glacial periods and (probably) for a time after the close of the ice-age. Subsequently, as the climate of the plains assumed a colder and more humid character, they retired before the invading forests to the high mountains. Here, in the intenser insolation which they enjoy on the alpine slopes, they seem to find a compensation for the drawbacks incidental to the altitude of their present station.

As regards now the endemic element as a whole, the question as to the time and place of its origin is of a highly complicated and controversial nature. The question, too, in the case of this element, is necessarily of genetic rather than purely geographical scope. It must suffice to say that the weight of scientific opinion inclines to the view that at least the majority of endemic species are of pre-glacial origin, and are either strictly indigenous or products of the neighbouring lowlands. About 40% of the endemic element in the alpine flora are endemic also in the narrower sense, i.e. they are confined to the Alps. Many of them are restricted to some one small portion of the chain; these occur chiefly in the southern and eastern Alps. It is an interesting fact that the centrally situated Bernese Alps produce hardly a single peculiar species. The greater richness of certain districts in the matter of species is partly due to the variety of soils encountered therein; but in part may be explained by the fact that these districts were the first to be freed from the ice-sheet at the end of the glacial period.

The following is a list of the most thoroughly characteristic alpine plants -- all of them ipso facto members of the endemic element -- which are at once peculiar to the Alps (or practically so) and widely distributed within the limits of the chain. These are: Festuca pulchella, Carex microstyla, Salix caesia, Rumex nivalis, Alsine aretioides, Aquilegia alpina, Thlaspi rotundifolium, Saxifeaga Seguieri, S. aphylla, Astragalus leontinus, Daphne striata, Eryngium alpinum, Bupleurum stellatum, Androsace helvetica, A. glacialis, Gentiana bavarica, Phyteuma humile, Campanula thyrsoidea, C. cenisia, Achillea atrata, Cirsium spinosissimum, Crepis Terglouensis.

AUTHORITIES. -- Among the voluminous literature on Alpine flora, the following works are particularly noteworthy: -- Ball, ``On the Origin of the Flora of the European Alps,'' in proceed. of the Roy. Geog. Soc., 1879; Bennett, The Flora of the Alps, 2 vols. with 120 coloured plates (1896); Briquet, ``Les Colonies vegetales xerothermiques des alpes lemaniennes,'' in Bull. d. l. Murithienne, soc. valaisienne des sciences nat., xxvii. and xxviii. (1898-1899); Alph. de Candolle, ``Sur les causes de l'ineaale distribution des Plantes rares dans la chaine des Alpes,'' Extr. des Actes du Congres botan. internat. de Florence (1875); Chodat u. Pampanini, ``Sur la distribution des plantes des alpes austro-orientales,'' Extr. du Globe, organe de la soc. de geographie de Geneve, tome xli. (1902); H. Christ, Das Pflanzenleben der Schweiz (1882) -- the chief classic on the subject; Engler, Die Pfanzenformationen und die pflanzengeographische Gliederung der Alpenkette (1901); Heer, Uleber die nivale Kora der Schweiz (1885); Jerosch, Geschichte und Herkunft der schweizerischen Alpenfforal cine Ubersicht uber den gegenwartigen Stand der Frage (1903). Schroter, Das Pflanzenleben der Alpen (Zurich, 1908); R. von Wettstein, Die Geschichte unserer Alpenflora (1896). The best book of coloured plates is the Atlas der Alpemflora, in 5 vols., pub. by the Deutscher u. Oesterreichischer Alpenverein (2nd. ed., 1897).

12. Fauna. -- The fauna of the lower zones in the Alps is, on the northern side of the chain, practically identical with that of central Europe, and on the southern side with that of the Mediterranean basin. But in the higher regions it presents many features of special interest alike to the zoologist and the traveller. It seems therefore best to treat here principally of the animal inhabitants of the high Alps.

Though among mammalia -- as also in the case of the birds -- there are but few forms peculiar to the Alps, many interesting animals have found in the high mountains at least a temporary refuge from man. The European bison, the urus, the elk and the wild swine have disappeared since Roman times. But the lynx (Lynx vulgaris) perhaps lingers in remote parts, and the brown bear (Hrsus arctos) still survives in the dense forests of the Lower Engadine. The fox (Canis vulpes), the stonemarten (Martes foina) and the stoat or ermine (Putorius ermiiiea) range in summer above the tree-limit. The Ungulata are represented by the chamois (Rupicapra tragus) and the bouquetin or steinbock (Capra ibex). The former -- the sole representative, in western Europe, of the antelopes -- is found elsewhere only in the Pyrenees, Carpathians, Caucasus and the mountains of eastern Turkey; the latter survives only in the eastern Graian Alps. Of the Rodentia the most interesting and conspicuous is the marmot (Arctomys marmota), which lives in colonies close to the snow-line. The snow-mouse (Arvicola nivalis) is confined to the alpine and snow regions, and is abundant at these levels throughout the whole chain of the Alps. The mountain hare (Lepus variabilis or timidus) replaces the common hare (Lepus europaeus) in the higher regions; though absent from the intervening plains it again appears in the north of Europe and in Scotland. Among the Insectivora, the alpine shrew (Sorex alpinus) is restricted to the Alps. Of the Cheiroptera (bats) only Vesperugo maurus is characteristically alpine.

The birds of the Alps are proportionately very numerous. The lammergeyer (Gypaetus barbatus), once common, is now extremely rare, even if it has not already become extinct in the Alps; but the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) still holds its own. Some of the smaller birds of prey are not uncommon, but there is none that can be regarded as specially characteristic either of the Alps as a whole or of the alpine region. As characteristic birds of the snow-region may be mentioned the alpine chough (Pyrrhocorax alpinus), which is frequently seen at the summits even of the loftiest mountains, the alpine swift (Cypselus melba), the wallcreeper ( Tichodroma muraria), snow-finch (Montifringilla nivalis) and ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus); the geographical distribution of this last being similar to that of the mountain hare. The black redstart (Rulicilla titys), though common in the lower regions, is

also met with in fair numbers almost up to the snow-line. The raven (Corpus corax) is fairly common in the alpine and sub-alpine regions. On the highest pastures we find, further, the alpine accentor (Accentor collaris) and the alpine pipit (Anthus spipoletta). The crag-martin (Cotyle rupestris) haunts lofty cliffs in the alpine region. On the upper verge of the pine forests, or in the scrubby vegetation just beyond, the following are not uncommon -- black woodpecker (Picus martius), ring-ousel (Turdus torquatus), Bonelli's warbler (Phylloscopus Bonellii), crested til (Parus cristatus), citril finch (Citrinella alpina), siskin (Chrysomitris spinus), crossbill (Loxia curvirostra), nutcracker (Nucifraga caryocatactes), blackcock (Tetrao tetrix), and the alpine varieties of the marsh-tit (Parus palustris, borealis) and tree-creeper (Certhia familiaris, costae).

The remaining classes of Vertebrata are very sparsely represented in the high Alps; and what few species occur are mostly common to the plains as well. In fact, among the remaining land vertebrates, only the black salamander (Salamandra atra) is exclusively alpine. This interesting animal, though a member of the Amphibia, is terrestrial and viviparous.

The former connexion between the Arctic and the Alps, which has left such unmistakable traces in the present alpine flora, affords, as regards the fauna also, the only possible explanation of the present geographical distribution of many alpine forms; but it is chiefly among the Invertebrata that we find this collateral testimony to the influence of the glacial period. In this respect we may note that two small crustaceans, Diaptomus bacillifer and D. denticornis, swarm in the ice-cold waters of the highest alpine tarns throughout the entire chain; and the former of these is also a characteristic inhabitant of pools formed from melting snow in the extreme north. Among the remaining divisions of Invertebrata special mention may be made of the air-breathing Arthropoda -- on the whole the most important and interesting group. About one-third of the animals belonging thereto that occur in the higher regions are exclusively alpine (or alpine and northern); these characteristically alpine forms being furnished chiefly by the spiders, beetles and butterflies. Most numerous are the beetles. Those of the highest zone are remarkable for the great predominance of predaceous species and of wingless forms. In this last respect they present a striking analogy with the endemic coleopterous fauna of oceanic islands. As for the butterflies, not more than one-third of the species found in the alpine region occur in the neighbouring lowlands. The relations between alpine butterflies and plants are especially interesting, as regards not only their bionomic interdependence but also the analogies of their geographical distribution. It should be noted that butterflies are the chief agents in securing the continued existence of such alpine flowers as depend on insect fertilization, the other insect fertilizers being mostly wanting at great heights.

The classic of alpine zoology is F. von Tschudi's Das Tierleben der Alpenwelt (11th ed., 1890). See also zoological section, by K. W. v. Dalla Torre, of Anleitung zu wissenschaftlichen Beobachtungen auf Alpenreisen. For the Vertebrata, see V. Fatio's Faune des vertebres de la Suisse (3 vols., 1869-1904). Die Tierwelt der Hochgebirgsseen, by F. Zschokke (1900) is an important treatise on an interesting department of alpine natural history. C. Zeller's Alpentiere im Wechsel der Zeit (1892) gives a reliable account of the gradual disappearance of some of the larger forms of life from the Alps. For the inter-relations of alpine insects and flowers, see H. Muller's Alpenblumen, ihre Befruchtung durch Insekten, und ihre Anpassung an dieselben (1881). (H. V. K.)

ALPUJARRAS or ALPUXARRAS, THE (Moorish al Busherat, ``the grass-land''), a mountainous district of southern Spain, in the province of Granada, consisting principally of valleys which descend at right angles from the crest of the Sierra Nevada on the north, to the Sierras Almijara, Contraviesa and Gador, which sever it from the Mediterranean Sea, on the south. These valleys are among the most beautiful and fertile in Spain. They contain a rich abundance of fruit trees, especially vines, oranges, lemons and figs, and in some parts present scenes of almost Alpine grandeur. The inhabitants are the descendants of the Moors, who, after the Spanish conquest of Granada in 1492, vainly sought to preserve the last relics of their independence in their mountain fastnesses. Many of the names of places in the Alpujarras are of Moorish origin. The district contains many villages of 1000 to 4000 inhabitants, the four largest being Lanjaron, with its ruined castle and chalybeate baths, Orgiba, Trevelez and Ugijar; all situated at a considerable elevation. Trevelez, the highest, stands 5332 ft. above the sea.

`ALQAMA IBN `ABADA, generally known as `ALQAMA AL-FAHL, an Arabian poet of the tribe Tamim, who flourished in the second half of the 6th century. Of his life we know practically nothing except that his chief poem concerns an incident in the wars between the Lakhmids and the Ghassanids (see ARABIA, History). Even the date of this is doubtful, but it is generally referred to the period after the middle of the 6th century. His poetic description of ostriches is said to have been famous among the Arabs. His diwan consists of three qusidas (elegies) and eleven fragments. Asma` i considered three of the poems genuine.

The poems were edited by A. Swain with Latin translation as Die Gedichte des Alkama Alfahl (Leipzig, 1867), and are contained in W. Ahlwardt's The Diwans of the six ancient Arabic Poets (Lond., 1870); cf. W. Ahlwardt's Bemerkungen uber die Aechtheit der alten arabischen Gledichte (Greifswald, 1872), pp. 65-71 and 146-168. (G. W. T.)

ALQUIFOU (etymologically the same word as ``alcohol''), a lead ore found in Cornwall, used by potters for its green glaze.

ALREDUS, ALURED or ALUREDUS, OF BEVERLEY, was sacristan of the church of Beverley in the first half of the 12th century. He wrote, apparently about the year 1143, a chronicle entitled Annales sive Historia de gestis regum Britanniae, which begins with Brutus and carries the history of England down to 1129. This work was edited by T. Hearne (Oxford, 1716), and at one time enjoyed some reputation as an authority. It is, however, a mere compilation and of no value. Geoffrey of Monmouth and Simeon of Durham are Alured's chief sources. Among the Cottonian MSS. there is a collection of records relating to Beverley, Liberlales Ecclesiae S. Johannis de Beverlae, which is attributed to Alured, but on no good authority. (H. W. C. D.)

ALSACE (Ger. Elsass), a former province of France, divided after the Revolution into the departments of Haut-Rhin and Bas-Rhin, and incorporated since the war of 1870 with the German empire (see ALSACE-LORRAINE). It is bounded on the north by the Rhenish Palatinate, on the east by the Rhine, on the south by Switzerland and on the west by the Vosges Mountains; and it comprises an area of 3344 English sq.