Chapter 14

Hunting. Its Benefits to the Soldier. Buffalo. Deer. Antelope. Bear. Big-horn, or Mountain Sheep. Their Habits, and Hints upon the best Methods of hunting them.

HUNTING.

I know of no better school of practice for perfecting men in target-firing, and the use of firearms generally, than that in which the frontier hunter receives his education. One of the first and most important lessons that he is taught impresses him with the conviction that, unless his gun is in good order and steadily directed upon the game, he must go without his supper; and if ambition does not stimulate his efforts, his appetite will, and ultimately lead to success and confidence in his own powers.

The man who is afraid to place the butt of his piece firmly against his shoulder, or who turns away his head at the instant of pulling trigger (as soldiers often do before they have been drilled at target-practice), will not be likely to bag much game or to contribute materially toward the result of a battle. The successful hunter, as a general rule, is a good shot, will always charge his gun properly, and may be relied upon in action. I would, therefore, when in garrison or at permanent camps, encourage officers and soldiers in field-sports. If permitted, men very readily cultivate a fondness for these innocent and healthy exercises, and occupy their leisure time in their pursuit; whereas, if confined to the narrow limits of a frontier camp or garrison, having no amusements within their reach, they are prone to indulge in practices which are highly detrimental to their physical and moral condition.

By making short excursions about the country they acquire a knowledge of it, become inured to fatigue, learn the art of bivouacking, trailing, etc., etc., all of which will be found serviceable in border warfare; and, even if they should perchance now and then miss some of the minor routine duties of the garrison, the benefits they would derive from hunting would, in my opinion, more than counterbalance its effects. Under the old regime it was thought that drills, dress-parades, and guard-mountings comprehended the sum total of the soldier's education, but the experience of the last ten years has taught us that these are only the rudiments, and that to combat successfully with Indians we must receive instruction from them, study their tactics, and, where they suit our purposes, copy from them.

The union of discipline with the individuality, self-reliance, and rapidity of locomotion of the savage is what we should aim at. This will be the tendency of the course indicated, and it is conceived by the writer that an army composed of well-disciplined hunters will be the most efficient of all others against the only enemy we have to encounter within the limits of our vast possessions.

I find some pertinent remarks upon this subject in a very sensible essay by "a late captain of infantry" (U.S.). He says:

"It is conceived that scattered bands of mounted hunters, with the speed of a horse and the watchfulness of a wolf or antelope, whose faculties are sharpened by their necessities; who, when they get short of provisions, separate and look for something to eat, and find it in the water, in the ground, or on the surface; whose bill of fare ranges from grass-seed, nuts, roots, grasshoppers, lizards, and rattlesnakes up to the antelope, deer, elk, bear, and buffalo, and who have a continent to roam over, will be neither surprised, caught, conquered, overawed, or reduced to famine by a rumbling, bugle-blowing, drum-beating town passing through their country on wheels at the speed of a loaded wagon.

"If the Indians are in the path and do not wish to be seen, they cross a ridge, and the town moves on, ignorant whether there are fifty Indians within a mile or no Indian within fifty miles. If the Indians wish to see, they return to the crest of the ridge, crawl up to the edge, pull up a bunch of grass by the roots, and look through or under it at the procession."

Although I would always encourage men in hunting when permanently located, yet, unless they are good woodsmen, it is not safe to permit them to go out alone in marching through the Indian country, as, aside from the danger of encountering Indians, they would be liable to become bewildered and perhaps lost, and this might detain the entire party in searching for them. The better plan upon a march is for three or four to go out together, accompanied by a good woodsman, who will be able with certainty to lead them back to camp.

The little group could ascertain if Indians are about, and would be strong enough to act on the defensive against small parties of them; and, while they are amusing themselves, they may perform an important part as scouts and flankers.

An expedition may have been perfectly organized, and every thing provided that the wisest forethought could suggest, yet circumstances beyond the control of the most experienced traveler may sometimes arise to defeat the best concerted plans. It is not, for example, an impossible contingency that the traveler may, by unforeseen delays, consume his provisions, lose them in crossing streams, or have them stolen by hostile Indians, and be reduced to the necessity of depending upon game for subsistence. Under these circumstances, a few observations upon the habits of the different animals that frequent the Plains and on the best methods of hunting them may not be altogether devoid of interest or utility in this connection.

THE BUFFALO.

The largest and most useful animal that roams over the prairies is the buffalo. It provides food, clothing, and shelter to thousands of natives whose means of livelihood depend almost exclusively upon this gigantic monarch of the prairies.

Not many years since they thronged in countless multitudes over all that vast area lying between Mexico and the British possessions, but now their range is confined within very narrow limits, and a few more years will probably witness the extinction of the species.

The traveler, in passing from Texas or Arkansas through southern New Mexico to California, does not, at the present day, encounter the buffalo; but upon all the routes north of latitude 36° the animal is still found between the 99th and 102d meridians of longitude.

Although generally regarded as migratory in their habits, yet the buffalo often _winter_ in the snows of a high northern latitude. Early in the spring of 1858 I found them in the Rocky Mountains, at the head of the Arkansas and South Platte Rivers, and there was every indication that this was a permanent abiding-place for them.

There are two methods generally practiced in hunting the buffalo, viz.: running them on horseback, and stalking, or still-hunting. The first method requires a sure-footed and tolerably fleet horse that is not easily frightened. The buffalo cow, which makes much better beef than the bull, when pursued by the hunter runs rapidly, and, unless the horse be fleet, it requires a long and exhausting chase to overtake her.

When the buffalo are discovered, and the hunter intends to give chase, he should first dismount, arrange his saddle-blanket and saddle, buckle the girth tight, and make every thing about his horse furniture snug and secure. He should then put his arms in good firing order, and, taking the lee side of the herd, so that they may not get "_the wind_" of him, he should approach in a walk as close as possible, taking advantage of any cover that may offer. His horse then, being cool and fresh, will be able to dash into the herd, and probably carry his rider very near the animal he has selected before he becomes alarmed.

If the hunter be right-handed, and uses a pistol, he should approach upon the left side, and when nearly opposite and close upon the buffalo, deliver his shot, taking aim a little below the centre of the body, and about eight inches back of the shoulder. This will strike the vitals, and generally render another shot unnecessary.

When a rifle or shot-gun is used the hunter rides up on the right side, keeping his horse well in hand, so as to be able to turn off if the beast charges upon him; this, however, never happens except with a buffalo that is wounded, when it is advisable to keep out of his reach.

The buffalo has immense powers of endurance, and will run for many miles without any apparent effort or diminution in speed. The first buffalo I ever saw I followed about ten miles, and when I left him he seemed to run faster than when the chase commenced.

As a long buffalo-chase is very severe labor upon a horse, I would recommend to all travelers, unless they have a good deal of surplus horse-flesh, never to expend it in running buffalo.

Still-hunting, which requires no consumption of horse-flesh, and is equally successful with the other method, is recommended. In stalking on horseback, the most broken and hilly localities should be selected, as these will furnish cover to the hunter, who passes from the crest of one hill to another, examining the country carefully in all directions. When the game is discovered, if it happen to be on the lee side, the hunter should endeavor, by making a wide detour, to get upon the opposite side, as he will find it impossible to approach within rifle range with the wind.

When the animal is upon a hill, or in any other position where he can not be approached without danger of disturbing him, the hunter should wait until he moves off to more favorable ground, and this will not generally require much time, as they wander about a great deal when not grazing; he then pickets his horse, and approaches cautiously, seeking to screen himself as much as possible by the undulations in the surface, or behind such other objects as may present themselves; but if the surface should offer no cover, he must crawl upon his hands and knees when near the game, and in this way he can generally get within rifle range.

Should there be several animals together, and his first shot take effect, the hunter can often get several other shots before they become frightened. A Delaware Indian and myself once killed five buffaloes out of a small herd before the remainder were so much disturbed as to move away; although we were within the short distance of twenty yards, yet the reports of our rifles did not frighten them in the least, and they continued grazing during all the time we were loading and firing.

The sense of smelling is exceedingly acute with the buffalo, and they will take the wind from the hunter at as great a distance as a mile.

When the animal is wounded, and stops, it is better not to go near him until he lies down, as he will often run a great distance if disturbed; but if left to himself, will in many cases die in a short time.

The tongues, humps, and marrow-bones are regarded as the choice parts of the animal. The tongue is taken out by ripping open the skin between the prongs of the lower jaw-bone and pulling it out through the orifice. The hump may be taken off by skinning down on each side of the shoulders and cutting away the meat, after which the hump-ribs can be unjointed where they unite with the spine. The marrow, when roasted in the bones, is delicious.

THE DEER.

Of all game quadrupeds indigenous to this continent, the common red deer is probably more widely dispersed from north to south and from east to west over our vast possessions than any other. They are found in all latitudes from Hudson's Bay to Mexico, and they clamber over the most elevated peaks of the western sierras with the same ease that they range the eastern forests or the everglades of Florida. In summer they crop the grass upon the summits of the Rocky Mountains, and in winter, when the snow falls deep, they descend into sheltered valleys, where they fall an easy prey to the Indians.

Besides the common red deer of the Eastern States, two other varieties are found in the Rocky Mountains, viz., the "black-tailed deer," which takes its name from the fact of its having a small tuft of black hair upon the end of its tail, and the _long-tailed_ species. The former of these is considerably larger than the eastern deer, and is much darker, being of a very deep-yellowish iron-gray, with a yellowish red upon the belly. It frequents the mountains, and is never seen far away from them. Its habits are similar to those of the red deer, and it is hunted in the same way. The only difference I have been able to discern between the long-tailed variety and the common deer is in the length of the tail and body. I have seen this animal only in the neighborhood of the Rocky Mountains, but it may resort to other localities.

Although the deer are still abundant in many of our forest districts in the east, and do not appear to decrease very rapidly, yet there has within a few years been a very evident diminution in the numbers of those frequenting our Western prairies. In passing through Southern Texas in 1846, thousands of deer were met with daily, and, astonishing as it may appear, it was no uncommon spectacle to see from one to two hundred in a single herd; the prairies seemed literally alive with them; but in 1855 it was seldom that a herd often was seen in the same localities. It seemed to me that the vast herds first met with could not have been killed off by the hunters in that sparsely-populated section, and I was puzzled to know what had become of them. It is possible they may have moved off into Mexico; they certainly are not in our territory at the present time.

Twenty years' experience in deer-hunting has taught me several facts relative to the habits of the animal which, when well understood, will be found of much service to the inexperienced hunter, and greatly contribute to his success. The best target-shots are not necessarily the most skillful deer-stalkers. One of the great secrets of this art is in knowing how to approach the game without giving alarm, and this can not easily be done unless the hunter sees it before he is himself discovered. There are so many objects in the woods resembling the deer in color that none but a practiced eye can often detect the difference.

When the deer is reposing he generally turns his head from the wind, in which position he can see an enemy approaching from that direction, and his nose will apprise him of the presence of danger from the opposite side. The best method of hunting deer, therefore, is _across the wind_.

While the deer are feeding, early in the morning and a short time before dark in the evening are the best times to stalk them, as they are then busily occupied and less on the alert. When a deer is espied with his head down, cropping the grass, the hunter advances cautiously, keeping his eyes constantly directed upon him, and screening himself behind intervening objects, or, in the absence of other cover, crawls along upon his hands and knees in the grass, until the deer hears his steps and raises his head, when he must instantly stop and remain in an attitude fixed and motionless as a statue, for the animal's vision is his keenest sense. When alarmed he will detect the slightest movement of a small object, and, unless the hunter stands or lies perfectly still, his presence will be detected. If the hunter does not move, the deer will, after a short time, recover from his alarm and resume his grazing, when he may be again approached. The deer always exhibits his alarm by a sudden jerking of the tail just before he raises his head.

I once saw a Delaware Indian walk directly up within rifle range of a deer that was feeding upon the open prairie and shoot him down; he was, however, a long time in approaching, and made frequent halts whenever the animal flirted his tail and raised his head. Although he often turned toward the hunter, yet he did not appear to notice him, probably taking him for a stump or tree.

When the deer are lying down in the smooth prairie, unless the grass is tall, it is difficult to get near them, as they are generally looking around, and become alarmed at the least noise.

The Indians are in the habit of using a small instrument which imitates the bleat of the young fawn, with which they lure the doe within range of their rifles. The young fawn gives out no scent upon its track until it is sufficiently grown to make good running, and instinct teaches the mother that this wise provision of nature to preserve the helpless little quadruped from the ravages of wolves, panthers, and other carnivorous beasts, will be defeated if she remains with it, as her tracks can not be concealed. She therefore hides her fawn in the grass, where it is almost impossible to see it, even when very near it, goes off to some neighboring thicket within call, and makes her bed alone. The Indian pot-hunter, who is but little scrupulous as to the means he employs in accomplishing his ends, sounds the bleat along near the places where he thinks the game is lying, and the unsuspicious doe, who imagines that her offspring is in distress, rushes with headlong impetuosity toward the sound, and often goes within a few yards of the hunter to receive her death-wound.

This is cruel sport, and can only be justified when meat is scarce, which is very frequently the case in the Indian's larder.

It does not always comport with a man's feelings of security, especially if he happens to be a little nervous, to sound the deer-bleat in a wild region of country. I once undertook to experiment with the instrument myself, and made my first essay in attempting to call up an antelope which I discovered in the distance. I succeeded admirably in luring the wary victim within shooting range, had raised upon my knees, and was just in the act of pulling trigger, when a rustling in the grass on my left drew my attention in that direction, where, much to my surprise, I beheld a huge panther within about twenty yards, bounding with gigantic strides directly toward me. I turned my rifle, and in an instant, much to my relief and gratification, its contents were lodged in the heart of the beast.

Many men, when they suddenly encounter a deer, are seized with nervous excitement, called in sporting parlance the "_buck fever_," which causes them to fire at random. Notwithstanding I have had much experience in hunting, I must confess that I am never entirely free from some of the symptoms of this malady when firing at large game, and I believe that in four out of five cases where I have missed the game my balls have passed too high. I have endeavored to obviate this by sighting my rifle low, and it has been attended with more successful results. The same remarks apply to most other men I have met with. They fire too high when excited.

THE ANTELOPE.

This animal frequents the most elevated bleak and naked prairies in all latitudes from Mexico to Oregon, and constitutes an important item of subsistence with many of the Prairie Indians. It is the most wary, timid, and fleet animal that inhabits the Plains. It is about the size of a small deer, with a heavy coating of coarse, wiry hair, and its flesh is more tender and juicy than that of the deer. It seldom enters a timbered country, but seems to delight in cropping the grass from the elevated swells of the prairies. When disturbed by the traveler, it will circle around him with the speed of the wind, but does not stop until it reaches some prominent position whence it can survey the country on all sides, and nothing seems to escape its keen vision. They will sometimes stand for a long time and look at a man, provided he does not move or go out of sight; but if he goes behind a hill with the intention of passing around and getting nearer to them, he will never find them again in the same place. I have often tried the experiment, and invariably found that, as soon as I went where the antelope could not see me, he moved off. Their sense of hearing, as well as vision, is very acute, which renders it difficult to stalk them. By taking advantage of the cover afforded in broken ground, the hunter may, by moving slowly and cautiously over the crests of the irregularities in the surface, sometimes approach within rifle range.

The antelope possesses a greater degree of curiosity than any other animal I know of, and will often approach very near a strange object. The experienced hunter, taking advantage of this peculiarity, lies down and secretes himself in the grass, after which he raises his handkerchief, hand, or foot, so as to attract the attention of the animal, and thus often succeeds in beguiling him within shooting distance.

In some valleys near the Rocky Mountains, where the pasturage is good during the winter season, they collect in immense herds. The Indians are in the habit of surrounding them in such localities and running them with their horses until they tire them out, when they slay large numbers.

The antelope makes a track much shorter than the deer, very broad and round at the heel, and quite sharp at the toe; a little experience renders it easy to distinguish them.

THE BEAR.

Besides the common black bear of the Eastern States, several others are found in the mountains of California, Oregon, Utah, and New Mexico, viz., the grizzly, brown, and cinnamon varieties; all have nearly the same habits, and are hunted in the same manner.

From all I had heard of the grizzly bear, I was induced to believe him one of the most formidable and savage animals in the universe, and that the man who would deliberately encounter and kill one of these beasts had performed a signal feat of courage which entitled him to a lofty position among the votaries of Nimrod. So firmly had I become impressed with this conviction, that I should have been very reluctant to fire upon one had I met him when alone and on foot. The grizzly bear is assuredly the monarch of the American forests, and, so far as physical strength is concerned, he is perhaps without a rival in the world; but, after some experience in hunting, my opinions regarding his courage and his willingness to attack men have very materially changed.

In passing over the elevated table-lands lying between the two forks of the Platte River in 1858, I encountered a full-grown female grizzly bear, with two cubs, very quietly reposing upon the open prairie, several miles distant from any timber. This being the first opportunity that had ever occurred to me for an encounter with the ursine monster, and being imbued with the most exalted notions of the beast's proclivities for offensive warfare, especially when in the presence of her offspring, it may very justly be imagined that I was rather more excited than usual. I, however, determined to make the assault. I felt the utmost confidence in my horse, as she was afraid of nothing; and, after arranging every thing about my saddle and arms in good order, I advanced to within about eighty yards before I was discovered by the bear, when she raised upon her haunches and gave me a scrutinizing examination. I seized this opportune moment to fire, but missed my aim, and she started off, followed by her cubs at their utmost speed. After reloading my rifle, I pursued, and, on coming again within range, delivered another shot, which struck the large bear in the fleshy part of the thigh, whereupon she set up a most distressing howl and accelerated her pace, leaving her cubs behind. After loading again I gave the spurs to my horse and resumed the chase, soon passing the cubs, who were making the most plaintive cries of distress. They were heard by the dam, but she gave no other heed to them than occasionally to halt for an instant, turn around, sit up on her posteriors, and give a hasty look back; but, as soon as she saw me following her, she invariably turned again and redoubled her speed. I pursued about four miles and fired four balls into her before I succeeded in bringing her to the ground, and from the time I first saw her until her death-wound, notwithstanding I was often very close upon her heels, she never came to bay or made the slightest demonstration of resistance. Her sole purpose seemed to be to make her escape, leaving her cubs in the most cowardly manner.

Upon three other different occasions I met the mountain bears, and once the cinnamon species, which is called the most formidable of all, and in none of these instances did they exhibit the slightest indication of anger or resistance, but invariably ran from me.

Such is my experience with this formidable monarch of the mountains. It is possible that if a man came suddenly upon the beast in a thicket, where it could have no previous warning, he might be attacked; but it is my opinion that if the bear gets _the wind_ or sight of a man at any considerable distance, it will endeavor to get away as soon as possible. I am so fully impressed with this idea that I shall hereafter hunt bear with a feeling of as much security as I would have in hunting the buffalo.

The grizzly, like the black bear, hybernates in winter, and makes his appearance in the spring with his claws grown out long and very soft and tender; he is then poor, and unfit for food.

I have heard a very curious fact stated by several old mountaineers regarding the mountain bears, which, of course, I can not vouch for, but it is given by them with great apparent sincerity and candor. They assert that no instance has ever been known of a female bear having been killed in a state of pregnancy. This singular fact in the history of the animal seems most inexplicable to me, unless she remain concealed in her brumal slumber until after she has been delivered of her cubs.

I was told by an old Delaware Indian that when the bear has been traveling against the wind and wishes to lie down, he always turns in an opposite direction, and goes some distance away from his first track before making his bed. If an enemy then comes upon his trail, his keen sense of smell will apprise him of the danger. The same Indian mentioned that when a bear had been pursued and sought shelter in a cave, he had often endeavored to eject him with smoke, but that the bear would advance to the mouth of the cave, where the fire was burning, and put it out with his paws, then retreat into the cave again. This would indicate that Bruin is endowed with some glimpses of reason beyond the ordinary instincts of the brute creation in general, and, indeed, is capable of discerning the connection between cause and effect. Notwithstanding the extraordinary intelligence which this quadruped exhibits upon some occasions, upon others he shows himself to be one of the most stupid brutes imaginable. For example, when he has taken possession of a cavern, and the courageous hunter enters with a torch and rifle, it is said he will, instead of forcibly ejecting the intruder, raise himself upon his haunches and cover his eyes with his paws, so as to exclude the light, apparently thinking that in this situation he can not be seen. The hunter can then approach as close as he pleases and shoot him down.

THE BIG-HORN.

The big-horn or mountain sheep, which has a body like the deer, with the head of a sheep, surmounted by an enormous pair of short, heavy horns, is found throughout the Rocky Mountains, and resorts to the most inaccessible peaks and to the wildest and least-frequented glens. It clambers over almost perpendicular cliffs with the greatest ease and celerity, and skips from rock to rock, cropping the tender herbage that grows upon them.

It has been supposed by some that this animal leaps down from crag to crag, lighting upon his horns, as an evidence of which it has been advanced that the front part of the horns is often much battered. This I believe to be erroneous, as it is very common to see horns that have no bruises upon them.

The old mountaineers say they have often seen the bucks engaged in desperate encounters with their huge horns, which, in striking together, made loud reports. This will account for the marks sometimes seen upon them.

The flesh of the big-horn, when fat, is more tender, juicy, and delicious than that of any other animal I know of, but it is a _bon bouche_ which will not grace the tables of our city epicures until a railroad to the Rocky Mountains affords the means of transporting it to a market a thousand miles distant from its haunts.

In its habits the mountain sheep greatly resembles the chamois of Switzerland, and it is hunted in the same manner. The hunter traverses the most inaccessible and broken localities, moving along with great caution, as the least unusual noise causes them to flit away like a phantom, and they will be seen no more. The animal is gregarious, but it is seldom that more than eight or ten are found in a flock. When not grazing they seek the sheltered sides of the mountains, and repose among the rocks.

ITINERARIES.

LIST OF ITINERARIES:

SHOWING THE DISTANCES BETWEEN CAMPING-PLACES, THE CHARACTER OF THE ROADS, AND THE FACILITIES FOR OBTAINING WOOD, WATER, AND GRASS ON THE PRINCIPAL ROUTES BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

No. Page

I. From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fé and Albuquerque, New Mexico. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 257

II. From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fé, by the way of the upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron 260

III. Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Doña Aña and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 263

IV. From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City 266

V. From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California 273

VI. From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco, California 277

VII. From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks." From Captain Handcock's Journal 279

VIII. From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's Cut-off 282

IX. Sublet's Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and Fort Hall Roads 282

X. From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones 283

XI. From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon, via Fort Hall 285

XII. Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon City 288

XIII. From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas 288

XIV. Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and Fort Yuma, California 289

XV. From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California 292

XVI. From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California, via Santa Cruz 294

XVII. From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak and "Cherry Creek," N.T., via the Arkansas River 295

XVIII. From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon 302

XIX. Lieutenant E. F. Beale's route from Albuquerque to the Colorado River 307

XX. Captain Whipple's route from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to San Pedro, California 308

XXI. From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California. From Lieutenant R. S. Williamson's Report 315

XXII. A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened by Captain J. H. Simpson, U.S.A., in 1858 317

XXIII. From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California 318

XXIV. Lieutenant Bryan's Route from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridger's Pass 320

XXV. Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah 323

XXVI. From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney 326

XXVII. From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico. By Colonel W. W. Loring, U.S.A. 327

XXVIII. Wagon-route from Guaymas, Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona. From Captain Stone's Journal 333

I.--_From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fé and Albuquerque, New Mexico._ By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.

Miles.

Fort Smith to

15. Strickland's Farm.--The road crosses the Poteau River at Fort Smith, where there is a ferry; it then follows the Poteau bottom for ten miles. This part of the road is very muddy after heavy rains. At 14 miles it passes the Choctaw Agency, where there are several stores. There is the greatest abundance of wood, water, and grass at all camps for the first 200 miles. Where any of these are wanting it will be specially mentioned. The road passes through the Choctaw settlements for about 150 miles, and corn and supplies can be purchased from these Indians at reasonable rates.

11. Camp Creek.--Road crosses a prairie of three miles in length, then enters a heavy forest. The camp is on a small branch, with grass plenty in a small prairie about 400 yards to the left of the road.

12. Coon Creek.--Road passes through the timber, and is muddy in a rainy season.

12. Sans Bois Creek.--Prairie near; some Choctaw houses at the crossing.

14. Bend of Sans Bois Creek.--Indian farm.

15. South Fork of Canadian, or "Gain's Creek."--Road traverses a very rough and hilly region. There is a ford and a ferry upon the creek. Indian farm on the west bank.

12. First ford of Coal Creek.--Road crosses over a rolling prairie, and at four miles the Fort Washita road turns to the left.

Second ford of Coal Creek.--Indian farm.

4. Little Cedar Mountain.--Very rough, mountainous road.

6. Stony Point.--Very rough, mountainous road.

5. Shawnee Village.--Several Indian houses.

14. Shawnee Town.--Road passes several small prairies. Indian settlement; store on opposite bank of Canadian River, near the camp.

21. Delaware Mountain.--Road passes over a very beautiful country, with small streams of good water frequent, and good camps. It crosses small prairies and groves of timber.

5. Boggy River.--Road passes a country similar to that mentioned above.

3. Clear Creek.--Road turns to the right near a prominent round mound. Beautiful country, diversified with prairies and timbered lands.

7. Branch of Topofki Creek.--Beautiful country and fine roads.

9-1/2. Cane Creek.--Excellent camp.

5. Small Branch.--Road passes about two miles from the old "Camp Arbuckle," built by Captain Marcy in 1853, since occupied by Black Beaver and several Delaware families.

11-1/2. Mustang Creek.--Road runs on the dividing ridge between the waters of the Washita and Canadian, on a high prairie.

17-1/2. Choteau's Creek.--Road passes on the high prairie opposite Choteau's old trading-house, and leaves the outer limits of the Indian settlements. Excellent road, and good camps at short distances.

11-3/4. Choteau's Creek.--Road runs up the creek; is smooth and good.

12-3/4. Head of Choteau's Creek.--Road runs up the creek, and is good.

17-1/4. Branch of Washita River.--Road runs over an elevated prairie country, and passes a small branch at six miles from last camp.

5-3/4. Branch of "Spring Creek."--Good camp.

16. Head of "Spring Creek."--Road traverses a high prairie country, is smooth and firm.

13. Red Mounds.--Road runs over a high rolling prairie country, and is excellent.

5. Branch of Washita River.--Good road.

15-3/4. Branch of Canadian.--Road continues on the ridge dividing the Washita and Canadian rivers; is smooth and firm.

17-3/4. Branch of Washita River.--Road continues on the "divide."

18. Branch of Canadian.--Road continues on the divide from one to four miles from the Canadian.

19. On Canadian River.--Good road.

16. Little Washita River.--Good road; timber becoming scarce.

13. Branch of Canadian.--Good road.

17-1/2. Antelope Buttes.--Road runs along the Canadian bottom, and in places is sandy.

14. Rush Lake.--Small pond on the prairie. No wood within half a mile; some buffalo chips; poor water.

16. Branch of Washita River.--Good road on the divide.

10-1/4. Dry River.--Road descends a very long hill, and crosses the dry river near the Canadian. Water can be found by digging about a foot in the sand of the creek. Good grass on the west bank.

17. Branch of Canadian.--Road winds up a very long and abrupt hill, but is smooth and firm.

22-1/2. Timbered Creek.--Road passes over a very elevated prairie country, and descends by a long hill into the beautiful valley of Timbered Creek.

11-1/2. Spring Branch.--Good camp.

14. Spring Branch.--Good camp.

17-3/4. Branch of Canadian.--Road passes a small branch 3-1/2 miles from the last camp.

18-3/8. Branch of Canadian.--Road passes a small branch of the Canadian at 8 miles from the last camp.

17-7/8. Spring Branch.--Good road.

9-1/2. Branch of Canadian.--Good road and camp.

18-1/2. Branch of the Canadian.--Good road and camp.

10-1/4. Pools of Water.--Good camp.

10. Large Pond.--Good camp.

25. Pools of Water.--No wood; water brackish. The road passes over a very elevated and dry country, without wood or water.

18-1/2. Head of Branch.--At 13-1/2 miles the road crosses a branch of the Canadian.

19-3/4. Laguna Colorado.--Road here falls into an old Mexican cart-road. Good springs on the left up the creek, with wood and grass abundant.

7. Pools of Water.--Road runs through cedars.

10-3/8. Pajarito Creek.--Grass begins to be rather short in places, but is abundant on the creek.

13-1/2. Gallenas Creek.--Good camp.

15. 2d Gallenas Creek.--Good road.

16-1/2. Pecos River at Anton Chico.--This is the first settlement after leaving Camp Arbuckle. Corn and vegetables can be purchased here. Grass is generally short here.

15. Pecos River opposite Questa.--Road runs through the cedar, and is firm and good. Camp is in sight of the town of Questa, upon a very elevated bluff.

21-3/4. Laguna Colorado.--Road passes through a wooded country for a portion of the distance, but leaves it before reaching camp, where there is no wood, but water generally sufficient for trains. In very dry seasons it has been known to fail. The road forks here, the right leading to Santa Fé via Galistio (45-1/2 miles), and the left to Albuquerque.

22-1/2. San Antonio.--Good road.

18-3/4. Albuquerque.--Good road.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Albuquerque, 814-3/4 miles.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fé, 819 miles.

* * * * *

II.--_From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fé, by the way of the upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron._

[In this table the distances, taken by an odometer, are given in miles and hundredths of a mile. The _measured_ distances between the crossing of the Arkansas and Santa Fé are from Major Kendrick's published table. Wood, water, and grass are found at all points where the absence of them is not stated.]

Miles.

From Fort Leavenworth to

2.88. Salt Creek.

9.59. Stranger's Creek.

13.54. Stranger's Creek.

9.60. Grasshopper Creek.

6.50. Grasshopper Creek.

2.86. Grasshopper Creek.

2.60. Grasshopper Creek.

4.54. Soldier's Creek.

2.45. Upper Ferry, Kansas River.

7.41. Pottawatomie Settlement.

5.75. Pottawatomie Creek.

3.89. White Wakarussi Creek.

7.78. White Wakarussi Creek.

6.27. White Wakarussi Creek.

0.73. Road from Independence.--No place to encamp.

5.72. White Wakarussi Creek.

2.51. White Wakarussi Creek.

2.82. 142-mile Creek.

7.80. Bluff Creek.

5.77. Rock Creek.

5.08. Big John Spring.

2.29. Council Grove.

7.97. Elm Creek.--Water generally.

8.06. Diamond Spring.

1.42. Diamond Creek.

15.46. Lost Spring.--No wood.

9.25. Mud Creek.--Water uncertain; no wood.

7.76. Cottonwood Creek.

6.16. Water Holes.--Water generally; no wood.

12.44. Big Turkey Creek.--No water.

7.83. Little Turkey Creek.--Water uncertain; no wood.

18.19. Little Arkansas River.

10.60. Owl Creek.--Water generally in holes above and below crossing.

6.39. Little Cow Creek.--Water only occasionally.

2.93. Big Cow Creek.--Water holes, 10 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.

18.24. Bend of the Arkansas.

6.66. Walnut Creek.

16.35. Pawnee Rock.--Teams sometimes camp near here, and drive stock to the Arkansas to water. No wood.

5.28. Ash Creek.--Water above and below crossing, uncertain.

6.65. Pawnee Fork.--Best grass some distance above crossing.

From Pawnee Fork to the lower crossing of the Arkansas, a distance of 98-1/2 miles, convenient camping-places can be found along the Arkansas; the most prominent localities are therefore only mentioned. A supply of fuel should be laid in at Pawnee Fork to last till you pass Fort Mann, though it may be obtained, but inconveniently, from the _opposite_ side of the Arkansas. Dry Route branches off at 3-1/2 miles (estimated). This route joins the main one again 10 miles this side of Fort Mann. It is said to be a good one, but deficient in water and without wood.

11.43. Coon Creek.

46.58. Jackson's Island.

5.01. Dry Route comes in.

10.05. Fort Mann.

25.34. Lower Crossing of the Arkansas.--The Bent's Fort Route branches off at this point. For the distances upon this route, see next table. A supply of wood should be got from this vicinity to last till you reach Cedar Creek.

15.68. Water-hole.--Water uncertain; no wood.

30.02. Two Water-holes.--Water uncertain; no wood.

14.14. Lower Cimarron Springs.--No wood.

20.00. Pools of Water.--Water uncertain; no wood.

19.02. Middle Springs of the Cimarron.--No wood.

12.93. Little Crossing of the Cimarron.--No wood.

14.10. Upper Cimarron Springs.--No wood. Pools of water, 7 miles (estimated). No wood.

19.05. Cold Spring.--A tree here and there in the vicinity. Pools of water, 11 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.

16.13. Cedar Creek.--M'Nees' Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Water indifferent and uncertain; scant pasture; no wood. Arroyo del la Seña, 2-1/2 miles (estimated). No water.

21.99. Cottonwood Creek.--No water. Arroyo del Burro, 5 miles (estimated).

15.17. Rabbit-ear Creek.--10 miles (estimated), springs. Round Mound, 8 miles (estimated). No water; no wood; no camping-place. Rock Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Grazing scant; no wood.

26.40. Whetstone Creek.--Spring; no wood. Arroyo Don Carlos, 10-1/2 miles (estimated). Water, etc., to the left of the road.

14.13. Point of Rocks.--Water and grass _up the cañon_, just after crossing the _point_; scattering shrub cedars on the neighboring heights.

16.62. Sandy Arroyo.--Water uncertain; no wood. Crossing of Canadian River, 4-3/4 miles (estimated). Grazing above the crossing; willows.

10.05. Rio Ocaté.--Wood 1/3 of a mile to right of road; grass in the cañon. Pond of water, 13-1/2 miles (estimated). No wood.

19.65. Wagon Mound.--Santa Clara Springs. Wood brought from the Rio Ocaté. Rio del Perro (Rock Creek), 17-1/2 miles (estimated).

21.62. Cañon del Lobo.--Rio Moro, 3-1/2 miles (estimated). Rio Sapillo, 1 mile (estimated). The Bent's Fort Route comes in here.

18.00. Las Vegas.--Forage purchasable.

13.05. Tacolote.--Forage purchasable. Ojo Vernal, 5 miles (estimated). No grass to speak of.

14.00. San Miguel.--Forage purchasable; no grass.

21.81. Ruins of Pecos.--Grazing very scant. Cottonwood Creek, 4-1/2 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no grass.

13.41. Stone Corral.--No grass.

10.80. Santa Fé.--Forage purchasable; no grazing.

* * * * *

III.--_Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Doña Aña and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849._ By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.

Miles.

Fort Smith to

65. South Fork of the Canadian.--The road from Fort Smith to the South Fork of the Canadian follows the same track as the road to Albuquerque and Santa Fé, and by reference to the tables of distances for that road the intermediate camps will be found.

15. Prior's Store.--Grass, wood, and water near.

17-1/2. Little Boggy.--Good camp. Wherever there are not the requisites of wood, water, and grass for encamping, it will be specially noted; when they are not mentioned they will always be found.

13. Little Boggy.--Good camp.

15-1/2. Boggy Depôt.--Store and blacksmith's shop.

12-3/5. Blue River.--The road passes over a flat section, which is muddy after rains.

8-1/2. Fort Washita.--Good camp half a mile before reaching the fort. The road forks at the Indian village on the Boggy, the left being the most direct. There are settlers along the road, who will give all necessary information to strangers. Corn plenty.

22. Preston Texas, on Red River.--The road from Fort Washita runs through the Indian settlements, passing many places where good camps may be found, and crosses the Red River at Preston. There is a ferry here; also stores and a blacksmith's shop.

20. M'Carty's.--Road runs through a heavy-timbered country, crossing several streams where there are good camps.

14-2/5. Elm Fork of the Trinity, at Gainesville.--Road passes over a section diversified by prairies and groves of timber.

12. Elm Fork of Trinity.--Good camp.

11. Elm Fork of Trinity.--Excellent camps. Road passes over a beautiful country rapidly settling up with farmers, who cultivate and sell grain at low rates.

9. Turkey Creek.--Tributary of Red River. Road emerges from the upper "Cross Timbers" two miles from camp.

26-3/4. Buffalo Springs.--Springs of good water, but of limited amount, in a ravine.

12. On a Ravine.--Pools of good water and a small running stream, not reliable.

13-1/2. On a Ravine.--Pools of water.

17-1/4. On a Ravine.--Pools of water.

17-1/4. Running branch of Cottonwood Spring.--Branch about two feet wide, good water; wood about half a mile distant.

14. Fort Belknap.--Good road through post-oak timber. County seat and town at Fort Belknap. Good camp on the west side of the Brazos, which is always fordable except in very high water.

14. Small Branch.--Water in holes.

18. Water-holes.--Pools of water. Road passes over prairie and timbered lands, is very smooth and level.

7-1/2. Stem's Farm, on Clear Fork of the Brazos River.--Good road; excellent camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass. Indian reservation here.

13. Elm Creek, or Qua-qua-ho-no.--Good road over rolling prairie and mesquite lands.

17. Ravine.--Pools of standing water. Good road.

18. Ravine.--Pools of standing water. Good road.

27. Small Creek.--Tributary of the Brazos. Good road.

6. Pools of Water.--Good camp.

8-1/2. Small Branch.--Good water.

20-1/2. Tributary of the Colorado.--Brackish water.

3-1/4. Rio Colorado.--Brackish water. Road very excellent.

12-1/10. Spring on the Road.--Good water.

22-9/10. Big spring to the left of the road, affording a great amount of water, which runs off in a small stream.

23. Laguna Colorado.--Water somewhat sulphurous; fuel mesquite roots; grass abundant.

35. Mustang Pond.--This pond is north of the road about two miles, and was found in 1849, but emigrants and others have not been able to find it since. For this reason I would advise travelers to fill their water-kegs at the Laguna Colorado, as in a very dry season they might not be able to get any water until they reach the Sand Hills. The road is excellent over the "Llano Estacado," or Staked Plain.

34-1/2. Sand Hills.--Water in holes. The water is good here, and can always be relied on as permanent. The road through the Sand Hills is very heavy, and I would advise travelers with loaded wagons to make half loads.

31-1/2. Laguna near the Pecos River.--Road passes through the hills, and descends the high prairie to the valley of the Pecos. Laguna on the left.

15-5/8. Crossing of Pecos.--Water deep and not fordable; river 42 yards wide. A road leads up the eastern bank of the Pecos to a ford with rock bottom. Good camps can be had at almost any point on the Pecos. The water is brackish, but can be used without harm.

54-1/2. Pecos River.--Point of the river where the road turns off toward Delaware Creek.

9-1/8. Delaware Creek.--Good road after leaving the Pecos River. The road on the Pecos is good in the bottom in very dry weather, but after heavy rains it is submerged and very muddy. Travelers should then turn off to the bluffs. The water in Delaware Creek is brackish.

11-7/8. Ojo de San Martin.--Fine spring of fresh water, also mineral spring. Good road up Delaware Creek.

15-3/10. Independence Spring.--Large spring of excellent water. Look out for Indians.

5-1/10. Ojo del Camins.--Good spring in the pine timber at the base of the mountain.

4-1/2. Peak of the Guadalupe.--Spring at the foot of the mountain. Road descends the mountain, and is very steep.

23-7/8. Ojo del Cuerbo.--Road descends through a very rough and sinuous ravine, and crosses a long prairie to camp at a pond of standing water. No wood.

26. Cornudas (Wells).--Well in the rocks; plenty of water for small parties. Road good.

8-3/4. Sierra del Alamo.--Road good; water limited in quantity. There is a small spring upon the side of the mountain. No wood except a few mesquite roots.

22-1/4. Waco Tanks.--Good water in a large reservoir in the rocks. The road here branches, the left leading to El Paso and the right to Doña Aña.

28. El Paso, on the Rio del Norte.--Road good, with some sand; no water upon it.

The distance from the "Waco Tanks" to Doña Aña is 63 miles, but 40 miles of the road is over heavy sand, and no water until reaching the mountain, 25 miles from Doña Aña. I would recommend travelers to take the El Paso road in preference.

Total distance from Fort Smith to El Paso, 860 miles.

* * * * *

IV.--_From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City._

Miles.

Leavenworth City to

3. Salt Creek.--Good camp; wood, water, and grass.

12. Cold Spring.--To the right of the road, in a deep ravine, plenty of wood, water, and grass.

12. Small Branch.--To the north of the road, in an arroya, good wood, water, and grass. Here enters the road from Atcheson, 6 miles distant.

16-2/3. Grasshopper Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

9-1/2. Walnut Creek.--Road passes a town called Whitehead, 4 miles from last camp. Water in pools, but 3/4 of a mile below is a fine spring; plenty of wood, water, and grass.

17. Grasshopper Creek.--Good camp, with wood, water, and grass.

12-1/2. Big Nemehaw, two miles above Richland.--Good wood, water, and grass near the creek.

11. Water-holes.--On the ridge, at the head of a ravine, are wood, water, and grass, but in a dry time there would be but little water.

10-3/4. Vermilion Creek.--Water in the creek not good, but there is a good well of cold water near the road. Wood and grass good.

21-1/2. Big Blue River.--Upper crossing, good ford; plenty of wood, water, and grass. Fine clear stream, 60 yards wide.

17-1/2. Branch of the Big Blue.--Camp half a mile north of the road; good wood, water, and grass.

15. Turkey, or Rock Creek.--Good spring 400 yards to the north of the road. Store at the crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.

19. Big Sandy.--Wood, water, and grass good.

19. Little Blue River.--Road runs across the hills without water until reaching camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

18-3/4. Little Blue River.--Camp is at the point where the road turns off from the creek. Good camps may be found any where on the Little Blue, with excellent wood, water, and grass. Fine running stream.

15. Little Blue River.--Road strikes the creek again, and keeps it to the camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

19. Elm Creek.--Road leaves the Little Blue, and runs along a divide to the head of Elm Creek, where we found water in holes, with some few trees; grass good.

20. Platte River.--Road crosses one small branch, where there is water except in a dry season. Good camp on the Platte, with wood, water, and grass.

15. Fort Kearney.--Good camp about two miles from the fort, upon the Platte, either above or below; grass, wood, and water abundant.

17. Platte River--Road runs along the river, where there is plenty of grass, and occasionally a few cottonwood-trees. Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the traveler can always get a plenty of buffalo-chips along in this section.

16-3/4. On Plum Creek.--Road runs along the Platte to Plum Creek, where there is a little wood, with good grass and water. Mail station at the crossing of Plum Creek.

22-1/3. On Platte River.--Road runs along the Platte bottom after crossing Plum Creek, and is good except in wet weather. The road occasionally comes near the Platte, and, although the timber becomes thin, yet places are found where fuel can be obtained. Grass is plenty at all points.

23. On Platte River.--Road continues along the river valley over a flat country where the water stands in ponds, and is boggy in wet weather. Camps occasionally on the river, but little fuel. Grass and water good.

14. On Platte River.--Road continues along the valley, with the same character as before, but more timber. Camp opposite Brady's Island. Plenty of wood, water, and grass.

17-1/4. Slough.--On the Prairie. Road runs from one to three miles from the river. No wood all day; plenty of grass, and buffalo-chips for cooking.

15-1/4. Platte River.--Road crosses O'Fallon's Bluffs, where there is a good camping-place on the right of the road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass on a small stream, which is part of the Platte. Mail station here.

16-1/2. South Platte River.--Road runs along the Platte, with no timber. Good grass and water at any point, with buffalo-chips for fuel.

17. South Platte River.--No timber all day. Good water and grass at all points, with buffalo-chips.

8. South Platte Crossing.--No wood all day. Good water and grass, with buffalo-chips. The river is about 600 yards wide, rapid, with quicksand bottom, but can be forded when not above a medium stage. It is best to send a footman ahead to ascertain the depth of water before crossing the wagons and animals.

19. Ash Hollow, at North Platte River.--Road leaves the South Fork of the Platte, and strikes over the high prairie for 16 miles, when it descends the high bluffs bordering the valley of the North Platte, and enters Ash Hollow, where there is a plenty of wood and a small spring of water. Half a mile beyond this the road reaches the river. Mail station and a small grocery here.

16-3/4. North Platte.--Very sandy road; no wood; grass and water plenty at all points; buffalo-chips sufficient for cooking.

17. North Platte.--Road sandy in places; no wood; good grass and water; some buffalo-chips.

16-1/2. North Platte.--Road good; no wood; good grass and water; cattle-chips in places.

18-3/4. North Platte.--No wood. Camp opposite "Chimney Rock," which is a very peculiar formation on the south of the road, and resembles a chimney. Grass good. Road muddy after rains.

17-1/2. North Platte.--No wood; grass and water good.

16. "Horse Creek," branch of the North Platte.--In seven miles the road passes through Scott's Bluffs, where there is generally water in the first ravine about 200 yards below the road. The road then descends the mountain, at the foot of which is the Platte and a mail station. A little wood can be obtained at Scott's Bluffs; there is none on Horse Creek.

14-1/4. North Platte.--Road follows the river bottom all day. Wood, water, and grass on the river.

12. Fort Laramie.--Road rough and rocky in places. There are wood and water plenty, and before many trains have passed the grass is good above the fort. Mail station and post-office here, with a sutler's store well stocked with such articles as the traveler wants.

10. North Platte.--Road good, but hilly in places. Camp is in the river bottom, with plenty of wood, water, and grass. Hot spring two miles above here.

14. Bitter Creek.--There are two roads, both of which lead to Salt Lake. The upper or south road is best in the spring or in wet weather. I traveled the lower road. Wood, water, and grass are good.

17-3/4. Horse-shoe Creek.--Fine camp, with excellent wood, water, and grass. The road here forks, one passing to the left over the hills, and the other running nearer the Platte.

20-1/2. North Platte River.--Good road along near the river. Good wood, water, and grass. Road crosses the river at 12-1/2 miles.

20-1/4. North Platte River.--Road crosses the river again, and the camp is two miles above the mouth of La Prell Creek. Good wood, water, and grass.

19. North Platte River.--Road runs along the river, and is smooth and good. The camp is two miles above the crossing of Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store. Good grass, wood, and water.

16. North Platte River.--Good road, with wood, water, and grass at camp.

13. North Platte River.--Good road passing the bridge, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store, also a military station and a mail station. At two miles from camp the road crosses the river on a good ford with rocky bottom. The wood, water, and grass are abundant.

23. Red Buttes, on the North Platte.--Road is very hilly, and in some places sandy; passes Willow Spring, where there is grass and a little wood. Good wood, water, and grass at camp. Mail station here.

11. Sweet Water Creek.--Road leaves the river at the Red Buttes, and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Good grass and water, but little wood at camp.

15. On Sweet Water Creek.--Road passes a blacksmith's shop and store at the bridge six miles from camp, and at 2-1/2 miles from the camp it passes the "Devil's Gate" and a mail station. The Sweet Water here runs between two perpendicular cliffs, presenting a most singular and striking appearance. Take wood at the Gate for camp. Good grass and water at all places on Sweet Water Creek.

20. Sweet Water Creek.--Road muddy after rains, and some bad ravines to cross. Wood, water, and grass of the best quality at camp.

12. Sweet Water Creek.--Road runs along the valley of the Sweet Water, where there is plenty of wood and grass in places, but little wood at the camp noted.

8. On Sweet Water.--Road good; no wood; grass abundant.

20. On Sweet Water.--Road good; no wood.

17. Strawberry Creek.--Little wood; grass and water abundant. Road leaves "Sweet Water," and ascends a very long hill which is very rocky.

20-1/4. South Pass.--Road crosses the dividing ridge, and strikes the Pacific Spring, where there is excellent water and good grass if many cattle have not passed, in which event the traveler had better continue on down the creek which issues from the spring. Sage for fuel; no wood.

15-3/4. Dry Sandy Creek.--Grass scarce; no wood; some sage and greasewood; water brackish, but drinkable; road good. Here the traveler should send ahead and have the best spots of grass found, as it is very scarce throughout this section. Sublett's Cut-off turns off here for Soda Springs and Fort Hall. Take the left for Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City.

15. Little Sandy Creek.--Grass in spots along the creek bottom, and some fuel.

18. Big Sandy Creek.--Grass in detached spots on the creek, and little fuel.

21-1/2. Green River, Upper Ford.--Grass and fuel on the river.

7. Green River, at the Lower Ford.--Good grass and fuel below the ford. Ferry in time of high water. Mail station and grocery.

16. Black's Fork.--Good grass and fuel.

7. Ham's Fork.--United States bridge, no toll. Good grass and fuel.

12. Black's Fork.--Road forks at the crossing of Black's Fork, both roads leading to Fort Bridger. This itinerary is upon the left-hand road, which crosses Black's Fork two miles from Ham's Fork.

13. Smith's Fork.--Good camps along Black's Fork at any place, but the road leaves the stream for several miles. Wood, water, and grass at the confluence of Black's and Smith's Forks.

18-1/4. Fort Bridger.--Good camps above and below the fort. Military post, mail station, and store.

Muddy Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water. Grass short after many trains have passed. It is then necessary to go up the creek to find good grass. Road passes a fine spring 3 miles back.

19. Bear River.--Good camps, with wood, water, and grass.

Good ford, except in very high water. Sulphur Creek two miles back.

19. Red Fork.--In "Echo Cañon," two miles below Cashe Cave, good grass and fuel; water plenty.

19-1/4. Weber River.--Good grass, wood, and water. Mail station. United States bridge for high water; no toll.

5-1/4. Spring Branch.--Good camp. Road leaves the river, and takes the left into a valley.

9. Bauchmin's Creek.--Road crosses over a mountain, and descends to the creek, where there is a good camp.

14. Big Cañon Creek.--Road crosses Bauchmin's Creek 13 times in 8 miles, then ascends the mountain along a small creek, which is well wooded and good grass.

6. Emigration Creek.--Road leaves Cañon Creek, and crosses the two mountains, which are very steep and long. Grass and wood before crossing the "Little Mountain."

10-1/4. Great Salt Lake City.--Forage can be purchased here, as well as most of the articles the traveler may require, at high prices. There is no camping-place within two miles of the city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross the Jordan River, or to stop near the mouth of the cañon before entering the city.

Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake City, 1168 miles.

* * * * *

V.--_From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California._

Miles.

From Salt Lake City to

18. Hait's Ranch.--Good road, and grass abundant until Bear River is crossed.

17-1/4. Ford on Weber River.--Good road, and grass abundant.

15. Point of Mountain.--Spring water warm but pure.

12-3/4. Box Elder Creek.--Excellent water; grass and fuel abundant in the cañons.

23. Ferry on Bear River.--Four miles above the usual crossing. Excellent grass.

3/4. West Bank.--Grass not good on the west bank.

6. Small Spring.--Cross Bear River below the mouth of the Mallade.

17-1/2. Blue Springs.--Water and grass scarce, and of poor quality.

21-1/4. Deep Creek.--Heavy sage, but good grass on the right of the road, near sink.

20-1/2. Cedar Springs.--Good grass on the hills, with fine water and wood; rolling country.

10. Rock Creek.--Plenty of grass to the left of the road; good camping-place.

14-1/2. Raft River.--Good camp.

22-1/2. Goose Creek Mountains.--Grass, wood, and water abundant; rough and mountainous country. Road from Fort Bridger comes in here _via_ Soda Springs.

17-3/4. On Goose Creek.--Rough, broken country, with a good road, which runs along the creek for several miles.

28-1/2. Head of 1000 Spring Valley.--Road runs over a rolling, barren section, with but little water except on the river far to the right.

25-3/4. 1000 Spring Valley.--Meadow grass; good fuel scarce. Camps can be found at short intervals along the road.

14. Head of Humboldt River.--Fine camping-places, and road generally good, running over a rolling country.

23. Slough of the Humboldt.--Extensive bottoms of good grass.

20. Humboldt River.--Along the entire course of the Humboldt good grass is found in the bottoms. The road, which follows the bottom, is hard and smooth, but can not be traveled in seasons of very high water, as the bottom overflows. It is then necessary to take the road on the bluffs, where the grass is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage, can be forded at almost any point, and good camps can be found at short intervals. There are spots along the river bottom where alkaline ponds are frequent. These are poisonous to cattle, and should be avoided by travelers. It is well along this river not to allow animals to drink any water except from the river where it is running.

20. Humboldt River.--The foregoing remarks apply for every camp on the Humboldt River.

22. Humboldt River.--Good camps along the Humboldt Valley.

23. Humboldt River.

13-1/2. Humboldt River.

16-1/2. Humboldt River.

25. Humboldt River.

13-3/4. Humboldt River.

24. Humboldt River.

24-1/2. Humboldt River.

20-1/4. Humboldt River.

18-3/4. Humboldt River.

13-1/2. Humboldt River.

18-1/4. Lawson's Meadows.--The road here forks, the left going by the Carson Valley and Sacramento route, and the right _via_ Goose, Clear, and Rhett lakes, Applegate's Pass of the Cascade Mountains, into Rogue River Valley, Fort Law, Oregon Territory, Yreka, Fort Jones, Fort Reading, and Sacramento River.

33-1/2. On Humboldt River.--Grass and water poor all the distance to the Sink of the Humboldt.

19-1/2. Sink of Humboldt River.--The water at the Sink is strongly impregnated with alkali; the road generally is good. Travelers should not allow their stock to drink too freely of this water.

26. Head Sink of Humboldt.--Road good.

45. Carson River.--Road crosses the desert, where there is no water for stock, but there is a well where travelers can purchase water for drinking. This part of the road should be traveled in the cool of the day and at night. Grass good, also the water.

2. Carson River.--Good bunch-grass near the road.

30. Carson River.--26 miles of desert; poor grass.

14. Eagle Ranch.--Good grass and water.

13. Reese's Ranch.--Good grass and water.

12. Williams' Ranch.--Very good water and grass.

15. Hope Valley.--Road rough and rocky.

3. Near Sierra.--Good camp, with water and grass.

7. First Summit.--Road rough and rocky; good water; grass scarce.

2. Second Summit.--Road mountainous and very steep; snow nearly all the year.

10. Lakes.--Good camp.

12. Leek Springs.--Good grass near the road.

10. Trader's Creek.--Grass and fuel scarce.

12. Sly Park.--Grass and fuel near the road.

Forty Mile House.--Water plenty; grass scarce.

Sacramento Valley.--Water plenty; purchase forage.

Sacramento City.--Water plenty; purchase forage.

Total distance from Salt Lake City to Benicia, 973 miles.

* * * * *

At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt, travelers should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit their animals and to cut grass for crossing the desert, as this is the last good camping-place until reaching Carson River. The ground near this place is boggy, and animals should be watered with buckets. The camping-ground here is on the right bank of the river, and about half a mile to the left of the main road. The water is in a slough, near its head, where will be found some springs which run off a short distance, but soon sink.

The road across the desert is very sandy, especially toward the western extremity. Twenty miles from the Sink of the Humboldt there are four wells. About half a mile east of the mail station the road leading to the wells turns to the right, where water can be purchased for from one to two shillings for each man and beast.

At 9-1/2 miles beyond the mail station, on the desert, a road turns off from the main trace toward a very high sandy ridge, and directly upon the top of this ridge is the crater of an extinct volcano, at the bottom of which is a salt lake. Upon the extreme north end of this lake will be found a large spring of fresh water, sufficient for 1000 animals. From thence to "Ragtown," on Carson River, is three miles.

I would advise travelers, when their animals become exhausted before reaching this water, to take them out of harness and drive them to this place to recruit. There is some grass around the lake.

This desert has always been the most difficult part of the journey to California, and more animals have probably been lost here than at any other place. The parts of wagons that are continually met with here shows this most incontestably.

* * * * *

VI.--_From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco, California._

Miles.

Salt Lake City to

20-5/8. Willow Creek.--Good grass.

14. American Creek.--Good grass.

11-1/2. Provo City.--Town.

7-1/4. Hobble Creek.--Good camp.

6. Spanish Fork.--Good camp.

5. Peteetneet.--Good camp.

25. Salt Creek.--Several small streams between. Good camp.

18-5/8. Toola Creek.--Ford. No wood; grass good.

6-1/4. Sevier River.--Road is sandy, passing over a high ridge. Good camp.

25-1/2. Cedar Creek.--Road rather mountainous and sandy. Good grass and wood.

17-1/2. Creek.--This is the fourth stream south of Sevier River. Road crosses two streams. Good camp.

3-5/8. Willow Flats.--The water sinks a little east of the road.

25. Spring.--Good grass and water.

22-1/4. Sage Creek.--Grass poor; wood and water.

5-1/8. Beaver Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

27-1/4. North Cañon Creek.--In Little Salt Lake Valley. Good grass; no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles.

5-3/8. Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

6-3/4. Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

12-7/8. Cottonwood Creek.--Good grass and water.

9. Cedar Springs.--Good camp.

23. Pynte Creek.--Good grass one mile up the cañon.

9. Road Springs.--Road is rough; good camp.

16. Santa Clara.--Road descending and rough; poor grass. From this point to Cahoon Pass look out for Indians.

17-1/8. Camp Springs.--Two miles before reaching the springs the road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass.

22-7/8. Rio Virgin.--Road crosses over the summit of a mountain. Good road; grass poor.

39-5/8. Rio Virgin.--Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it ten times. Grass good down the river.

19-5/8. Muddy Creek.--Road for half a mile is very steep and sandy. Good camp.

52-5/8. Las Vegas.--Water is sometimes found 2-1/2 miles west of the road in holes 23 miles from the Muddy, and some grass about a mile from the road. Good camp.

5. On Vegas.--Road runs up the river. Good grass.

17. Cottonwood Spring.--Poor grass.

29-3/4. Cottonwood Grove.--No grass. Water and grass can be found four miles west by following the old Spanish trail to a ravine, and thence to the left in the ravine one mile.

21-3/4. Resting Springs.--Good grass and water. Animals should be rested here before entering the desert.

7. Spring.--The spring is on the left of the road, and flows into Saleratus Creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the Saleratus water.

14-1/8. Salt Springs.--Poor grass and no fresh water.

38-3/4. Bitter Springs.--Good road; poor grass.

30-3/4. Mohave River.--Good road and good grass.

51-1/2. On the Mohave.--Last ford. Good grass all the way up the Mohave.

17. Cahoon Pass.--At the summit.

10. Camp.--Road bad down the cañon.

11-1/2. Coco Mongo Ranch.

10. Del Chino Ranch.--Williams.

19-3/8. San Gabriel River.

6. San Gabriel Mission.

8-1/4. Pueblo de los Angeles.

65-3/4. Santa Clara River.--_On the Coast Route._ Good camps to San José.

7-1/2. Buena Ventura Mission and River.--Road here strikes the Pacific shore.

26. Santa Barbara.--Town.

45-3/4. San Yenness River.--At the Mission.

78-7/8. Santa Margareta.--Old Mission.

28-3/8. San Miguel.--Old Mission.

24-3/4. San Antonio River.

26-3/4. Rio del Monterey.

15-5/8. Solida Mission.--At the ford of Rio del Monterey.

37-1/2. San Juan Mission.

33. San José Pueblo.

75. San Francisco.

* * * * *

VII.--_From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks."_ From Captain Handcock's Journal.

Miles.

Fort Bridger to

9. Little Muddy Creek.--Water brackish in pools along the creek; tall bunch-grass; sage for fuel. Road runs over a barren section, is rough, and passes one steep hill.

12-1/3. Big Muddy Creek.--The road, with the exception of two or three bad gullies, is good for ten miles; it then follows the Big Muddy bottom, which is flat and boggy. The camp is three miles above the crossing. Some grass; sage for fuel.

14-1/5. Small Branch of the Muddy Creek.--Cross the river in three miles at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good. Road generally good.

19-1/2. On Small Creek.--Road continues up the Muddy 9-1/2 miles to its head. It then ascends to the divide between Bear and Green Rivers, probably 800 feet, in 1-3/5 miles. The descent on the other side is about the same. The road passes many fine springs. At one and two miles back it passes points of hills, where it is very rough. Good grass and sage at camp.

8-9/10. Bear River.--Bad creek to cross near the camp; thence to Bear River Valley the road is good. It then follows down the river, crossing Willow Creek. Good camp, with a large, fine spring.

17. Bear River.--Good road along the river; plenty of wood, water, and grass at all points.

Foot of Grant's Mountain.--Road runs along Bear River; at 2-1/2 miles strikes Smith's Fork, a rapid trout stream. The road crosses the lower ford. A few miles farther on is a bad slough, which can be avoided by taking a round on the hills. Cross Thomas's Fork on a bridge, also a slough near it; toll $2.00 for each team and wagon. The road then leaves Bear River Valley, and turns over a very steep hill. Good grass, wood, and water.

12. Bear River.--Road ascends Grant's Mountain 1200 feet in 1-1/2 miles--double teams--then descends again into Bear River Valley at 4-4/5 miles. Good wood, water, and grass.

17-2/5. Indian Creek.--Road crosses eight fine spring branches; camp is on a beautiful trout stream. Good wood, water, and grass.

11. Spring near Bear River.--Road is hilly, crossing two spring branches. Good wood, water, and grass. The camp is on the left and near the road.

11. Bear River.--At 6-7/10 miles the road strikes a large group of springs called "Soda Springs," and here crosses Pine Creek, on the left bank of which is a saleratus lake. Soon after it strikes the main springs, and after crossing another creek the "Steam-boat Spring" may be seen in the bed of the river.

15. "Port Neuf," or Rock Creek.--At 2-3/10 miles the road leaves Bear River near where it runs through a cañon with high bluffs on each side. At this point the California and Fort Hall roads separate. The California road (called Hudspeth's Cut-off) then crosses a valley between the Bear River and Port Neuf River Mountains, 9 miles. No water from camp to camp. Good camp.

15. Marsh Creek.--About two miles above the main road the creek can be forded; a road leads to it from the descent into the valley. Road good; water and grass plenty; no wood.

16-1/5. Paunack Creek.--First part of the road is hilly; the remainder good. Good camp.

7-1/5. Mallade River.--At 7-1/5 miles the road crosses the Mallade River. Good camp 140 miles from Salt Lake City. Good road.

22-3/10. Small Creek.--The road ascends a ridge through a cañon, and descends to a valley on the other side. From the camp to the summit of the ridge is 6-1/5 miles. The descent is 3-7/10 miles. It then crosses a valley 8 miles wide, and strikes a cañon which leads to the top of a hill over a rough road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass at camp, but no water between this and the last camp.

9-3/5. Small Creek.--Road after five miles strikes a cañon with a long but gentle ascent. Two miles from the entrance of this cañon is a spring branch. There is wood and some grass and water at this place.

11-1/5. Spring Branch.--The road passes through a cañon, and at 5 miles strikes the head of a spring branch, which it follows down 2-1/2 miles to the junction with a larger branch, which is bridged. At nine tenths of a mile another fork enters. Grass very fine here. Road follows down this across the main branch, and the camp is 2 miles below. Good camp.

18-1/2. Decassure Creek, or Raft River.--Road continues down the creek 2-3/10 miles, and crosses, then ascends by a steep hill to an elevated sage plain, leaving the creek at 11-4/5 miles, and passes a slough with water. Good camp.

17-9/10. Spring Branch.--The road crosses the creek near the last camp, and follows up a valley, crossing in five miles several spring branches. At 2-9/10 miles it crosses the creek again, and follows up the valley two miles farther, then crosses a high sage plain 8-9/10 miles long, when it strikes a spring 150 yards to the left of the road, where there is an excellent camp in a beautiful valley.

10. Junction of Salt Lake City Road.--Road passes several small branches in 3 miles, then commences ascending through a cañon which, in 2-1/5 miles, leads to the entrance to the "City of Rocks," and passes through these for three miles. It then crosses a ridge, leaving the City of Rocks, and at ten miles from last camp intersects the road from "Salt Lake City." At 1-2/5 miles beyond this a road leads off to the right to a spring branch, 3 miles, where there is a good camp near the foot of Goose Creek Mountain. From this point California travelers can refer to the itinerary of the route from Salt Lake City to Sacramento.

* * * * *

VIII.--_From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's Cut-off._

Miles.

Soda Springs to

20. Bear River.--The road runs down Bear River, crossing some small streams. Good camp.

10. Portner Creek.--Camp at the head of the creek. Good wood, water, and grass.

12. Fork of Portner Creek.--Good camp.

15. Pauack Creek.--Road crosses a summit. Good road and camp.

12. Snake Spring.--Good camp.

12. Utha Spring.--Good camp.

15. Decassure Creek.--Road crosses a small stream; rather bad crossing. Good camp.

18. City of Rocks.--Junction of Salt Lake road. Good camp.

* * * * *

IX.--_Sublets Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and Fort Hall Roads._

Miles.

_Junction_ to

7. Big Sandy.

44. Green River.--From the Big Sandy to Green River (upper road) there is an abundance of grass in places along the road, but no water.

6. Small Creek.--The road runs up the creek. Good grass.

4. On the Creek.--Good grass and water.

12. Small Spring.--The spring is on the left of the road. Good grass.

9. Ham's Fork.--Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Spring.--On the summit of a mountain. Good grass.

6. Muddy Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.

10. Spring.--In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Smith's Fork.--In Bear, River Valley. Good wood, water; and grass.

10. Tomaus' Fork.--Road runs down Bear River. Good wood, water, and grass.

7. Spring Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.

7. Smith's Ford.--Road crosses over a spur of the mountain; long and gradual ascent; descent rather abrupt. Good wood, water, and grass.

8. Telleck's Fork.--Road runs down Bear River. Good camp.

4. Small Creek.--Good camp.

4. Small Creek.--Good camp.

7. Small Creek.--Good camp.

12. Soda Springs.--Left side of the road, among some cedars, is a good camp.

Here take the left-hand road to California, called _Hudspeth's Cut-off_.

* * * * *

X.--_From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones._

Miles.

Lawson's Meadows to

18-1/2. Mountain Spring.--Road leaves the Humboldt, and takes a northwesterly course 12 miles to a spring of good water. Good bunch-grass to the left of the road, and a small spring at the camp. The road is plain on leaving the river, but after a few days it becomes faint. Road from this point passes over a desert country for about 60 miles, without good water or much grass.

38-1/2. Black Rock Spring.--Road level and hard, with little vegetation. In 14 miles pass springs, but the water is not good. In 16 miles the road passes a slough which is difficult to cross; water not good, but can be given to cattle in small quantities. In five miles from this the road passes Black Rock, mentioned by Colonel Frémont in his trip from Columbia River in 1843-4. Three miles farther pass boiling springs, very hot, but good cooled. Grass pretty good.

20-1/4. Mountain Rill.--Water good; bunch-grass in the vicinity. In eight miles' travel the road passes a beautiful creek of pure water, with good grass.

5-3/4. Lake (Marshy).

10-1/2. High Rock Cañon.--This cañon is 25 miles long, with wild and curious scenery. Road crosses the creek frequently, and the mud is bad. In the autumn the road is good.

14-3/4. High Rock Cañon.

Small Creek.--Beautiful country, with the greatest abundance of water and grass; also fuel.

25-1/4. Pine Grove Creek.--Road passes over an interesting country, well supplied with wood, water, and grass, and passes around the south end of a salt lake.

18-1/2. West Slope of Sierra.--Road passes over the mountain, which is steep but not rocky, then descends to a small creek of good water which runs into Goose Lake. Good grass and fuel. Look out for the Indians, as they are warlike and treacherous here.

7-3/4. East shore of Goose Lake.--Excellent camp.

16-1/4. West shore of Goose Lake.--This is a beautiful sheet of fresh water; great quantities of water-fowl resort to this lake.

16-1/4. Slough Springs.--The road passes over a very rocky divide, covered with loose volcanic debris, very hard for animals, and wearing to their feet. They should be well shod before attempting the passage.

18-1/2. Marshy Lake.--Road difficult for wagons.

15. Clear Lake.--Beautiful lake of pure water, with good grass around its shore.

25-1/4. East shore of Rhett's Lake.--Road tolerable over a rolling, rocky country, between lakes. The road crosses Lost River over a natural bridge, on a solid, smooth ledge of rock.

19. West shore of Rhett's Lake.--Plenty of wood, water, and grass along this road.

21. Klamath River.--Road leaves Rhett's Lake, and enters the forest and mountains; tolerably good. Good camp.

15-1/4. Cascade Mountains.--The road passes over high mountains, through lofty pine-trees. Camp is at Summit Meadows. Good water and grass, also fuel.

14-1/4. Western slope of Cascade Mountains.--Rough roads.

19-1/4. Rogue River Valley.--Road descends into the settlements in six miles, where there is a lovely fertile valley, well settled with farmers.

23-3/4. Fort Lane.--Near "Table Rock," on Rogue River, eight miles from Jacksonville. Dragoon post.

22-3/4. Rogue River Valley.--Good camp.

18. Siskiyou Mountains.--Road crosses the Siskiyou Mountains, and is difficult for wagons.

18. Yreka.--Flourishing mining city.

18. Fort Jones.--Infantry post, in Scott's Valley.

20. Scott's Mountain.--Good camp at the foot of the mountain. Road passes over the mountains, but is impassable for wagons.

90. Shasta City.--Good grass, wood, and water.

180. Sacramento City.

* * * * *

XI.--_From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon_, via _Fort Hall._

Miles.

Soda Springs to

25. Portner Creek.--Good camp. Take the right-hand road.

10. Ross's Creek.--Good camp.

10. Fort Hall Valley.--Good camp. Road runs down the creek.

8. Snake River.--Good camp. Road crosses the river bottom.

5. Fort Hall.

15. Small Branch.--Camp is three miles below the crossing of Port Neuf River, which is fordable. Good wood, water, and grass.

10. American Falls.--Good camp.

13. Raft River.--Road rough and rocky. Sage for fuel; grass scarce.

17. Bend of Swamp Creek.--Grass scarce.

20. On Snake River.--Road crosses Swamp and Goose Creeks. Wood on the hills; grass short.

25. Rock Creek.--Road crosses one small creek, and is very rough and rocky for several miles, when it enters a sandy region, where the grass is scarce; sage plenty, and willows on the creek.

24. Snake River.--Road crosses several small branches. There is but little grass except in narrow patches along the river bottom.

26. Fishing Falls.--Road very crooked and rough, crossing two small streams.

29. Snake River.--Road crosses several small creeks, but leaves the main river to the north, and runs upon an elevated plateau. Good grass at camp.

16. Snake River (ford).--Road tortuous; ford good in low water.

19. Small Branch.--Road crosses Snake River, and follows up a small branch, leaving the river to the left. Good grass. Road ascends to a high plateau, which it keeps during the whole distance.

26. River "Aux Rochers."--Road passes Hot Springs, and is rough. Wood, water, and grass plenty.

22. Small Creek.--Road crosses two small branches, and is very rocky, but at camp grass, wood, and water are abundant.

23. Rio Boisè.--Road crosses one small creek, and follows along the Boisè River. Good wood, water, and grass.

26. Fort Boisè.--Road follows the south bank of Boisè River to the fort.

2. Fort Boisè.--Road crosses Boisè River. Good ford at ordinary stages. Grass good in the river bottom.

20. River "Aux Matthews."--Good road. Grass abundant, but coarse; wood and water plenty.

27. Snake River.--Road passes over a rough country. Grass scarce and of a poor quality.

20. Burnt River.--Road leaves Snake River, and takes across Burnt River, following up the north side of this to the camp. It is mountainous and rough, but the grass is good, and there is wood along the river.

22. Burnt River.--Road continues up the river, and is still rough and mountainous. Grass and wood plenty.

26. Small Branch.--Road passes over a divide to "Powder River." It is still rough, but getting better. The grass is good.

13. Powder River.--Good road; grass plenty.

21. Creek.--Road passes a divide, crossing several small streams, and is smooth, with plenty of grass and fuel.

20. Creek.--Road crosses one small branch, and is rather rough. The grass and fuel are good and abundant.

21. Creek.--Road follows down the creek for ten miles, then turns up a small branch, and is good. There is plenty of grass and fuel.

12. Branch.--Road crosses a divide and strikes another branch.

5. Small branch of the Umatilah River.--Good road, with plenty of wood and grass.

16. Branch of Wallah Wallah River.--Wood, water, and grass.

18. Wallah Wallah River.--Wood, water, and grass. Columbia River at Fort Wallah Wallah.--Wood, water, and grass.

10. Butler Creek.--Good camp.

18. Wells's Spring.--Good camp.

12. Willow Creek.--Good camp.

13. Cedar Spring.--Good camp.

6. John Day's River.--Good camp.

5. Forks of Road.--No camping. Left-hand road for wagons, and right-hand for pack trains. This itinerary takes the left.

10. Ouley's Camp.--Good camp.

19. Soot's River.--Good camp.

6. Fall River.--Good camp.

10. Utah's River.--Good camp.

18. Soot's River.--Good camp.

6. Soot's River.--Good camp. Road follows up the river, crossing it several times.

16. Sand River Fork.--Good grass a mile and a half to the left of the road.

8. Good Camp.

15. Royal Hill Camp.--Good camp.

7. Sandy River.--But little grass.

45. Down the River.--Good camps all the distance.

25. Oregon City.--Good camps all the distance.

75. Salem.--Good camps all the distance.

* * * * *

XII.--_Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon City._

Miles.

John Day's River to

17. Columbia River.--From John Day's River to the forks of the road, and thence by the right-hand fork to the Columbia. Good camp.

2-1/2. Soot's River Ferry.--Good camp.

15. Dalles.--Good camp.

25. Dog River.--Good camp.

15. Cascade Mountains.--One bad place.

9. Ouley's Rock.--Good camp.

20. Image Plain Ferry.--Good camp.

15. Portland.--Good camp.

12. Oregon City.--Good camp.

* * * * *

XIII.--_From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas._

Miles.

Powder-horn to

4. Indianola, Texas.--Steamers run from New Orleans five times a week to Powder-horn.

14. Chocolate Creek.--Good grass and water; fuel scarce. Road passes over a low, flat country, which in wet weather is heavy and muddy.

12. Grove.--Grove of oak; good water and grass. The road passes over a hog-wallow prairie, which is very muddy, and almost impassable for loaded teams after rains. The grass is abundant every where in this section.

12-1/2. Victoria.--The road is good, passing along near the east bank of the Guadalupe River. The country is thickly settled with farmers, who sell grain at reasonable rates. Grass abundant, also fuel.

34. Yorktown.--Road crosses the Guadalupe River on a bridge; toll one dollar for a six-mule team. It then crosses a low bottom for three miles; from thence the road is good, over a rolling country, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.

33. Cibello River.--Good road; wood, water, and grass plenty.

35. San Antonio.--Good road, with plenty of wood, water, and grass along the road. The Cibello is fordable at ordinary stages. The traveler can procure any thing he may need at Victoria and at San Antonio.

* * * * *

XIV.--_Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and Fort Yuma, Cal._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

San Antonio to

6.41. Leona.

18.12. Castroville.

11.00. Hondo.

14.28. Rio Seco.

12.50. Sabinal.

13.46. Rio Frio.

15.12. Nueces.

10.27. Turkey Creek.

15.33. Elm Creek.--All good camps, with abundance of wood, water, and grass. Country mostly settled, and the road very good, except in wet weather, from San Antonio to Elm Creek.

7.00. Fort Clarke.--Good grass, wood, and water. Road level and good.

7.00. Piedra Pinta,--Good grass, wood, and water.

8.86. Maverick's Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water.

12.61. San Felipé.--Good grass, wood, and water.

10.22. Devil's River.--First crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.

18.27. California Springs.--Grass and water poor.

18.39. Devil's River.--Second crossing. Grass poor.

19.50. Devil's River.--Good camp. The only water between Devil's River and Live Oak Creek is at Howard's Springs. The road is very rough in places.

44.00. Howard's Springs.--Grass scarce; water plenty in winter; wood plenty.

30.44. Live Oak Creek.--Good water and grass. The road passes within 1-1/2 miles of Fort Lancaster.

7.29. Crossing of Pecos River.--Bad water and bad camp. The water of the Pecos can be used.

5.47. Las Moras.--Good water, grass, and wood. The road is rough on the Pecos.

32.85. Camp on the Pecos River.--Wood and grass scarce.

16.26. Escondido Creek.--At the crossing. Water good; little grass or wood.

8.76. Escondido Spring.--Grass and water good; little grass.

19.40. Comanche Creek.--Grass and water good; little grass.

8.88. Leon Springs.--Grass and water good; no wood.

33.86. Barela Spring.--Grass and water good; wood plenty.

28.00. Fort Davis.--Good camp. From Fort Davis to Eagle Springs there is an ascent, and one of the very best of roads.

18.42. Barrel Springs.--Water good; grass and wood fair.

13.58. Dead Man's Hole.--Good wood and water; grass scarce.

32.83. Van Horne's Wells.--No grass or wood, but they will be found two miles back.

19.74. Eagle Springs.--Grass and wood poor; water about half a mile from camp, in a narrow cañon.

32.03. Mouth of Cañon "de los Camenos."--The road is rather rough. From here to Fort Bliss, opposite El Paso, the road runs near the river, and camps may be made any where. The wood, water, and grass are good at all points.

61.13. San Eluzario.--Mexican town.

9.25. Socorro.--Mexican town.

15.00. Fort Bliss, at El Paso.--United States military post and Mexican town.

Total distance from San Antonio to El Paso, 654.27 miles.

* * * * *

Miles.

El Paso to

22. Cottonwood.--From El Paso to Messilla Valley, in the Gadsden Purchase, the road runs up the east bank of the Rio Grande to Fort Fillmore (N.M.), where it crosses the river into the Messilla Valley.

22. Fort Fillmore.

6. La Messilla.

65. Cook's Spring.--From Messilla Valley to Tucson the road is remarkably good, with good grass and water. The streams on this section are the Mimbres and San Pedro, both fordable, and crossed with little trouble. The Apache Indians are generally met with in this country. There is a flouring-mill two miles below El Paso, where flour can be purchased at very reasonable prices.

18. Rio Mimbres.

17. Ojo la Vaca.

10. Ojo de Ynez.

34. Peloncilla.

18. San Domingo.

23. Apache Springs.

9. Cabesas Springs.

26. Dragon Springs.

18. Quercos Cañon.--Bunch-grass will be found sufficient for traveling purposes along this section of the road between El Paso and Tucson.

6. San Pedro Crossing.

20. Cienega.

13. Cienega Creek.

20. Mission of San Navier.

8. Tucson.--Total distance from El Paso to Tucson, 305 miles.

5. Pico Chico Mountain.

35. First Camp on Gila River.

29. Maricopa Wells.--The Maricopa Wells are at the western extremity of a fertile valley occupied by Pincos Indians, who cultivate corn and other grain.

40. Tezotal.--Across Jornada. There is but little grass here, but in the season the mesquite leaves are a good substitute.

10. Ten Mile Camp.

15. Oatman's Flat.--First crossing of the Gila River.

25. Second Crossing of the Gila.--The traveler can generally find sufficient grass in the hills along the valley of the Gila.

32. Peterman's Station.

20. Antelope Peak.

24. Little Corral.

16. Fort Yuma.

The distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma is 644 miles.

* * * * *

XV.--_From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

Fort Yuma to

10.00. Los Algodones.--Along the Colorado.

10.00. Cook's Wells.--Here commences the great desert; water nowhere good or reliable until arriving at Carizo Creek. The points named are where deep wells have been dug. "New River," though usually set down, is a dry arroyo. The surface of the desert for seven miles on the eastern side is drifting sand and heavy for wagons. Then comes a section in the centre of the desert that is hard and level. On the west side there is about three miles of a mud flat.

21.90. Alamo Rancho.

16.40. Little Laguna.

4.50. New River.

5.80. Big Laguna.

26.40. Carizo Creek.--Water good; cane and brush for fuel, and they afford some forage for the animals; no grass.

16.60. Vallecito.--Grass poor; wood and water sufficient.

17.80. San Felipe.--Grass poor; wood scarce; water good.

15.80. Warner's Ranch.--The road passes through a beautiful oak grove, where there is an abundance of grass and water. This is the summit of the mountain. At the Ranch the grass is poor, and no wood. The water is good. The oak grove terminates six miles from Warner's.

10.30. Santa Isabel.--Good grass, wood, and water. This was an old Spanish mission, but is now occupied by some Americans and Indians.

11.40. Laguna.--Two miles from last camp is a good camping-place. The road passes over some steep hills, not high. This is the best camp on the road.

12.00. San Pasquel.--For the first nine miles the road is level and good to the top of the mountain, where there is a good camping-place, with wood, water, and grass; thence the road descends a very steep hill. The camp is on the east side of the brook, near Soto's house.

18.80. Parrasquitas.--The road passes a good camp three miles from San Pasqual. Wood, Water, and grass at Parrasquitas.

8.00. Fisher's House.--The road passes over several hills, and at four miles is a good camping-place. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

San Diego, California.--When animals are to be kept a considerable time at San Diego, they should be taken four or five miles up the river, as the grass is poor near the town.

Total distance from Fort Yuma to San Diego, 217 miles.

* * * * *

XVI.--_From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California_, via _Santa Cruz._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

From El Paso to

26.10. Samalayuca.--Spring, with grass and wood.

38.00. Salado.--Bad water, with little grass and wood.

24.75. Santa Maria.--Good grass, wood, and water.

27.50. Mines of San Pedro.--Bad water; little grass or water.

19.20. Correlitos.--Good water, grass, and wood.

20.00. Janos.--Good water, grass, and wood.

12.00. Pelatudo.--Good water, grass, and wood.

30.00. San Francisco.--Water half a mile south of the road.

18.00. San Louis.--Good water, grass, and wood.

35.00. San Bernardino.--Good water, grass, and wood.

30.00. Ash Creek.--Grass, wood, and water.

37.00. Head of San Pedro.--Grass and water.

24.00. Santa Cruz.--Good grass, wood, and water.

31.00. Cocospe.--Much grass; 10 or 12 miles without water. Leave Santa Cruz River at old Rancho San Lazaro. No water till reaching the head of San Ignacio, except at nine miles, a spring one mile west of the road.

26.00. Hemores.--From Cocospe to Santa Anna follow down the San Ignacio, and in many places there is wood and grass. Grass is much better at three miles from the river. At the foot of the hills there is an abundance of grama-grass.

5.00. Terrenati.

4.00. San Ignacio.

5.20. Madina.

5.20. San Lorenzo.

2.60. Santa Marta.

5.20. Santa Anna.

26.00. Alamita.--Plenty of grass. Leave the river 10 or 12 miles from Santa Anna, and no water thence to Alamita, which is a small rancho.

31.20. Altar.--No water; grass abundant.

13.00. Laguna.--Small water-hole; grass scanty and poor.

52.00. Sonia.--Sometimes water is found 25 miles from the Laguna, south of the road. There is a well at Sonia in the town, and sometimes water in a hole 300 yards south of the town, 100 yards west of the road.

10.40. El Paso.--Well at El Paso supplying 100 animals; water muddy and brackish; grass poor.

52.00. Sonorita.--No water on the road; at Sonorita are several brackish springs. Grass poor; bad camping-place; saltpetre at the springs.

Quita Oaquita.--No water on the road. Saline spring at camp, better than at Sonorita, but the grass is not so good.

10.40. Agua Salado.--Water uncertain; grass poor.

23.40. Los Pleyes.--Water only in the rainy season, one mile west of the road, hidden by bushes and difficult to find. Grass pretty good.

28.60. Cabeza Prieta.--Natural tenajas in a ravine two miles from the road; follow a wagon-track up this ravine between a black and a red mountain. The water is good and abundant; grass tolerable.

31.00. Poso.--No water on the road until reaching Poso. Here it is abundant on the east side of the road; grass good one mile west.

13.00. Rio Gila.--But little good grass.

26.00. Fort Yuma, at the crossing of the Colorado River.--But little good grass for several miles.

Total distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma, 756 miles.

* * * * *

XVII.--_From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak and "Cherry Creek" N.T._, via _the Arkansas River._

Miles.

Westport to

4-3/4. Indian Creek.--The road runs over a beautiful country. Indian Creek is a small wooded stream, with abundance of grass and water.

8-3/4. Cedar Creek.--The road passes over a fine country, and there is a good camping-place at Cedar Creek.

8-1/2. Bull Creek.--The road is smooth and level, with less wood than before. Camping good.

9-1/2. Willow Springs.--At nine miles the road passes "Black Jack Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The road has but little wood upon it at first, but it increases toward the end of the march. The road is level for some distance, but becomes more rolling, and the country is covered with the finest grass. Good camp at one mile from the main road.

20-1/4. 110-Mile Creek.--The road traverses the same character of country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is very smooth, and at 9 and 12 miles passes "Rock Creeks," which have no running water in a dry season. Good camp.

22-1/2. Prairie Chicken Creek.--At eight miles the road crosses Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream; four miles farther First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile farther the Second Dragoon Creek, both fine streams, well wooded, and good camping-places. Good camp.

20. "Big Rock Creek."--At one mile the road crosses a small wooded branch. Three miles beyond it crosses "Elm Creek," where a good camping-place may be found. At 7 miles it crosses 142-Mile Creek, and at 13 miles it crosses Bluff Creek, where there is a good camping-place. Good camp.

20. "Council Grove," on Elm Creek.--Road passes "Big John Spring" at 13 miles, and is smooth and good. A fine camp is found three fourths of a mile beyond the "Grove," on Elm Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

16. Diamond Spring.--At-eight miles the road crosses Elm Creek, and passes over a section similar to that east of Council Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but muddy after heavy rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring.

16. Lost Spring.--One mile from camp the road passes a wooded creek. From thence there is no more wood or permanent water until arriving at camp. Take wood here for cooking, as there is not a tree or bush in sight from Lost Spring. The country becomes more level, with grass every where. The road is muddy in wet weather.

15-3/4. Cottonwood Creek.--Road continues over a prairie country, sensibly rising and improving. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

22. Turkey Creek.--The road is good, and at 18 miles passes Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at camp; grass good.

23. Little Arkansas River.--The road runs over a level prairie, and at 3-1/2 miles passes "Big Turkey Creek," with the Arkansas River Valley in sight all day. After rains there are frequent pools of water along the road. Good camp.

20. "Big Cow" Creek.--The road passes for ten miles over a level prairie, to Charez Creek, which is a bushy gully; thence six miles to Little Cow Creek, which is a brushy stream, with here and there a tree. Good camp here to the left of the road, near a clump of trees. "Prairie-dog towns" commence to be seen. Road very level. Buffalo-grass here.

20. Big Bend of the Arkansas.--The road at 12 miles strikes the sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon passed, however, and the level river bottom is reached. The river has a rapid current flowing over a quicksand bed. The road is generally good from the last camp. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

7. Walnut Creek.--The road is good. Cool springs at this camp; good grass and wood.

21. Head of Coon Creek.--At five miles the road forks, one following the river, the other a "short cut" "dry route" to Fort Atkinson, where they unite on the river. The country rises for ten miles on the dry route, then descends to the river, and is covered with the short buffalo-grass. No wood at camp.

18. Arkansas River.--The road passes over an undulating and uninteresting prairie, with but little vegetation. The water in dry weather is in pools.

19. Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson.--The road runs over a similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood near; plenty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good grass.

18-3/4. Arkansas River.--At 4-1/2 miles the road ascends a bluff covered with thick buffalo-grass. On the river is heavy bottom-grass. At 17 miles pass a ford. Grass good at camp.

19-1/4. Arkansas River.--The road is sandy for 14 miles, but not deep except in places; thence to camp it is good. Good camp.

22. Arkansas River.--Country prairie, covered with short buffalo-grass. Good camp.

22. Arkansas River.--The road is fine, crossing several dry-beds of creeks, along which are seen a few scattering trees. Good camp on a dry creek near the river.

24. Arkansas River.--The road runs over a barren plain at the foot of the main plateau, and crosses two dry creeks near the camp, on which are cottonwood-trees. Plenty of wood at camp.

21. Arkansas River.--The road follows the base of the hills at from one to three miles from the river. Good camp.

20. Arkansas River.--At seven miles the road strikes the "Big Timbers," where there is a large body of cottonwood; thence for three miles the road is heavy sand. Good camps along here.

13. Arkansas River.--At one mile the road passes some old houses formerly used as a trading-post. Here terminates the "Big Timbers." Coarse grass at the camp.

15. Arkansas River.--At three miles the road passes the mouth of Purgatoire Creek. Camp is below Bent's Fort. Good grass here.

24. Arkansas River.--Pass Bent's Fort. The grass is excellent in the vicinity of the fort, but after this it is not so good. The road runs over a high and considerably broken country. Good camp.

11. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Apishpa Creek; good camp. The Huerfano Mountains and Spanish Peaks are in sight from the camp. The "Cherokee Trail" comes in from Arkansas near Bent's Fort, and leads to the gold diggings at Cherry Creek.

9. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Huerfano Creek. Good camp, and a ford opposite Charles Audebee's house.

12. Arkansas River.--At this point the Cherokee trail bears to the right and leaves the river. The left-hand, or river road, runs up to the old pueblo at the mouth of the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek. The right-hand road leads to the gold diggings.

15-3/4. Fontaine qui Bouille.--The road strikes in a northwest course over the rolling country, and comes upon the creek at a most beautiful camp, where there is a great abundance of good wood, water, and grass. The wood, water, and grass are good at all points on the Fontaine qui Bouille, and travelers can camp any where upon this stream.

17-1/2. Fontaine qui Bouille.--Here the road forks, one running up the river, and the other striking directly across to the divide of the Arkansas and Platte. I prefer the left-hand road, as it has more water and better grass upon it.

6-1/2. Forks of the "Fontaine qui Bouille."--The road to Cherry Creek here leaves the "Fontaine qui Bouille" and bears to the right. There is a large Indian trail which crosses the main creek, and takes a northwest course toward "Pike's Peak." By going up this trail about two miles a mineral spring will be found, which gives the stream its name of "_The Fountain that Boils_." This spring, or, rather, these springs, as there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, are among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen. The water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is delightful to the taste, and somewhat similar to the Congress-water. It will well compensate any one for the trouble of visiting it.

17-1/2. Black Squirrel Creek.--This creek is near the crest of the high divide between the Arkansas and Platte Rivers. It is a small running branch, but always affords good water. There is pine timber here, and the grass is good on the prairies to the east. This is a locality which is very subject to severe storms, and it was here that I encountered the most severe snow-storm that I have ever known, on the first day of May, 1858. I would advise travelers to hasten past this spot as rapidly as possible during the winter and spring months, as a storm might prove very serious here.

14. Near the head of Cherry Creek.--The road crosses one small branch at four miles from Black Squirrel Creek; it then takes up to an elevated plateau, which in a rainy season is very muddy. The camp is at the first timber that is found, near the road, to the left. There is plenty of wood, water, and grass here. There is also a good camping-place at the small branch that is mentioned.

10. On Cherry Creek.--There is good grass, wood, and water throughout the valley of Cherry Creek. The mountains are from five to ten miles distant, on the left or west of the road, and when I passed there was a great abundance of elk, deer, antelope, bear, and turkeys throughout this section.

7. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.

11. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.

17. Mouth of Cherry Creek, at the South Platte.--Good camp, and a town built up since I passed, called "_Denver City_."

Total distance from Westport to the gold diggings, 685-1/4 miles.

* * * * *

XVIII.--_From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon._

Miles.

St. Paul's to

17-1/4. Small Brook.--The wood, water, and grass are abundant as far as the "Bois des Sioux" River.

20-1/4. Cow Creek.--This stream is crossed on a bridge.

23-1/4. Small Lake.--North of the road. The road passes over a rolling prairie, and crosses Elk River on a bridge.

17. Near Sauk Rapids.--The road crosses Elk River twice on bridges; Mississippi River near.

18. Russel's.--Ferry across the Mississippi River, then follow the Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring brook.

6. Cold Spring Brook.--Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4-1/2 feet deep.

19-1/2. Lake Henry.--Road good.

18-3/4. Lightning Lake.--Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat; water 4-1/2 feet deep.

17-1/2. Lake.--One mile from Red River trail. Pass White Bean Lake.

9-1/2. Pike Lake.--Pass the South Branch of the Chippeway River. Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses a small branch.

19-1/4. Small Lake.--Cross Chippeway River in a boat. Road passes numerous lakes and the best grass.

9-3/4. Small Lake.--Road passes rolling prairies, and crosses Rabbit River.

27. "Bois des Sioux" River.--Cross Bois des Sioux Prairie; rolling ground.

11. Wild Rice River.--Cross "Bois des Sioux" River, 70 feet wide and 4 to 7 feet deep, muddy bottom and banks. Wood, water, and grass at all camps between this and Maple River.

4-1/2. Small Creek.--Cross Wild Rice River on a bridge.

26-1/2. Sheyene River.--Smooth prairie road.

16-1/2. Maple River.--Cross Sheyene River on a bridge, and several small branches.

20. Small Creek.--Smooth road; no wood.

20. Pond.--Wet and marshy; numerous ponds in sight; no wood.

15. Pond.--No wood; approaching Sheyene River.

13-1/2. Sheyene River.--Prairie more rolling; camp in the river bottom. Wood, water, and grass abundant.

7. Slough.--Cross Sheyene River, 50 feet wide, 3-1/2 feet deep. No wood.

10. Lake.--Rolling prairie, with many marshes. Wood, water, and grass.

10-1/2. Pond.--Low, wet prairie; no wood; plenty of grass and water.

18-1/4. Marsh.--Smooth prairie, generally dry.

20. "Rivière à Jaques."--Smooth prairie, with marshes. Road crosses the river several times. Wood, water, and grass.

21-1/2. Pond.--Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds, and no wood.

12. Small Branch.--Marshy prairie, filled with ponds, with a thin, short grass, and no wood.

19-3/4. Lake.--On a high knoll. Road crosses the South Fork of Sheyene River; good crossing; thence rolling prairie, passing "Balto de Morale," also a narrow lake 4-1/2 miles long.

16-1/2. Pond.--Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls; cross a small branch at 7-3/4 miles. No wood.

17-3/4. Pond.--Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering River, a deep, muddy stream 100 feet wide, also marshy prairies and ponds. No wood.

16. Small Branch.--Tributary of Mouse River. Road skirts the valley of Mouse River, crossing the ravines near their heads.

15-1/4. Pond.--Undulating prairie with occasional marshes; the road then turns up the high ridge called "Grand Coteau." No wood.

20-1/4. Lake.--Hilly road approaching Grand Coteau. No wood.

20. Lake.--Rolling prairie; smooth, good road; no wood.

15-1/2. Pond.--Road passes Grand Coteau at 11 miles, and runs between two lakes. No wood, but plenty of "bois de vache" for fuel.

19-1/4. Branch of White Earth River.--Country rolling and hilly. Road passes wood at eight miles from camp.

23-1/4. Pond.--For two miles the road passes over a low, flat country, after which the country is hilly. No wood.

23-1/2. Pond.--Rolling and hilly country, with rocky knobs. At 18 miles cross branch of Muddy Creek 15 feet wide. Wood in ravines near this stream. No wood at camp.

20. Pond.--Rolling country. At 11 miles there is water in a ravine. To the left there is more water, but the country is rough. No wood.

16-1/4. Fort Union.--Road descends a hill to the fort; before this it passes over high, firm prairie. Good grass near in the hills.

6-1/2. Pond.--No wood; good grass.

6. Little Muddy River.--Good camp.

15-1/2. Creek.--Two good camps between this and the last. Wood, water, and grass.

10. Big Muddy River.--Drift-wood for fuel.

11. Marsh near Missouri.--Good camp.

18. Poplar River.--Good camp. One or two good camps between this and the last camp.

23-1/2. Creek near Missouri.--Good camp.

15. Slough near Missouri.--Good camp.

17-1/2. Milk River.--One good camp between this and the last camp.

13-1/2. Milk River.--Several good camps passed.

17-1/2. Milk River.--Good camp.

19-1/2. Milk River.--Several good camps passed.

17-3/4. Milk River.--At the crossing. The road follows a trail on the bluffs, and descends again to the river.

7-1/2. Lake.--No wood; grass and water plenty.

12-1/2. Milk River.--Second crossing. Good camp.

12. Milk River.--Good camp.

15-1/2. Milk River.--Good camps between this and the last camp.

10-3/4. Milk River.--Good camp.

20. Milk River.--Good camp.

16. Milk River.--Good camp.

18. Milk River.--At the third crossing.--Good camp.

7-1/2. Branch of Milk River.--Good camp.

17-1/2. Branch of Milk River.--Several good camps between this and the last camp.

6. Branch of Milk River.--Good camp.

19-1/4. Prairie Spring.--No wood; water and grass plenty.

13-3/4. Teton River.--Road crosses "Marias River."

8-3/4. Teton River, at Fort Benton.--A trading-post.

2-1/2. Small Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.

18-3/4. Missouri River.--Good camp.

20-1/2. Missouri River.--Above the falls. Road much broken into ravines. Wood, water, and grass.

16-3/4. Missouri River.--Road crosses first tributary above Fort Benton at ten miles.

17. Missouri River.--The road becomes very bad after fourteen miles, but is better on the north side of the Missouri.

6. Missouri River.--The road is exceedingly rough and broken; crosses the river.--Good wood, water, and grass.

11. Tributary of the Missouri.--The most difficult part of the road is passed, but the country is still hilly.

18-1/2. Tributary of the Missouri.--The road follows up the last-mentioned stream to near its head. Good camps.

15. Near the summit of Little Blackfoot Pass, on a broad Indian trail; excellent road.

14-3/4. Little Blackfoot River.--Road crosses the summit of the Rocky Mountains. Good road for wagons, with many camping-places.

17-1/2. Little Blackfoot River.--Road good, descending along the river. Near the camp a large fork comes in.

28-1/2. Little Blackfoot River.--Good road, which follows the broad, open valley for 14 miles. Good camps.

19-1/2.-Little Blackfoot River.--The valley contracts so that wagons will be forced to take the bed of the river in some places. The river is fordable, and the trail crosses it five times during the day.

22-1/2. Blackfoot River.--Sixteen miles from the last camp "Blackfoot" and "Hell Gate" River's enter, and about one mile of this distance is impassable for wagons; they would have to cross the river, which is fordable. Good camps.

27-1/2. Fort Owen.--Road runs up the St. Mary's River to Fort Owen over a broad, good trail in the valley.

40. St. Mary's River.--The south Nez Percés trail leaves the main trail, which ascends the St. Mary's Valley to the Forks, and follows the southwest fork to its source. To the Forks the valley of the St. Mary's is open, and admits wagons.

24. Southwest Fork of St. Mary's River.--The road follows a narrow trail, crossing the river frequently, and is not passable for wagons. The valley is narrow, and shut in by hills.

5-1/2. Kooskooskia River.--Road leaves the St. Mary's River, passing over a high ridge to the Kooskooskia River.

10. Branch.--Road runs over wooded hills.

14. Creek.--Road runs over wooded hills.

9. Small Creek.--This is the best camp between the St. Mary's River and the Nez Percés country.

15. Small Creek.--Road passes over wooded hills.

9. Small Branch.--Road passes over wooded hills, is very rough and difficult. Poor camp.

14. Small Creek.--Ten miles from last camp the road passes a high divide, ascending rapidly, though not difficult. Good grass on the summit, but no water.

13. Small Creek.--Good camp where the trail emerges from the woods on to the high plateau.

7. Clear Water River.--Large tributary. Road runs over high table-land, and descends to the valley of the river.

43. Lapwai River.--The road follows a broad trail down the river six miles, when it leaves the river bottom and ascends the plateau, which extends to Craig's house, on the Lapwai, fifteen miles from the river.

23. Tributary Snake River.--The trail runs over high ground from Craig's to Lapwai River, 15 miles. This river is 450 feet wide. No wood. Indians are generally found here, who ferry over travelers. The trail follows Snake River for several miles.

26-1/4. Tchannon River.--The trail passes 5-1/2 miles up the bottom of a small creek; then runs over a steep hill to another small creek, 8 miles; then along the valley of this stream 10-1/2 miles; thence over a high hill to camp on Tchannon River, 3 miles.

11-1/2. Touchet River.--The trail crosses the Tchannon River, and ascends to a high plain, which continues to camp.

32-1/2. Touchet River.--Road follows a good trail along the valley, where good camps are found any where, with wood, water, and grass.

19-1/2. Fort Wallah Wallah.--Leaving Touchet River, the trail passes over again to the plains, when there is neither wood, water, or grass to Fort Wallah Wallah.

Total distance from St. Paul's to Fort Union, 712-1/2 miles. Total distance from Fort Union to Fort Benton, 377-1/2 " Total distance from Fort Benton to Fort Owen, 255 " Total distance from Fort Owen to Fort Wallah Wallah, 340-3/4 " -------- Total distance from St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon, 1685-3/4 miles.

* * * * *

XIX.--_Lieutenant_ E. F. BEALE'S _route from Albuquerque to the Colorado River._

[Distances is miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

Albuquerque to

2.10. Atrisco.--Wood, water, and grass.

20.63. Rio Puerco.--Water in pools; wood and grass.

19.41. Near Puta.--Abundance of wood, water, and grass.

13.12. Covera.--Water and grass abundant; wood scarce.

13.06. Hay Camp.--Wood, water, and grass plenty.

25.37. Agua Frio.--Wood, water, and grass plenty.

16.28. Inscription Rock.--Small spring; grass and wood plenty.

16.32. Ojo del Pescado.--Water and grass plenty; wood for camp.

15.13. Zuñi.--Grass and water plenty; wood scarce.

6.19. Indian Well.--Wood, water, and grass.

14.43. No. 1.--Wood and grass; no water.

11.93. Jacob's Well.--Wood, water, and grass.

6.57. No. 2, Navajo Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.

13.62. Noon Halt.--Water by digging; grass and wood scarce.

6.13. No. 3.--Grass abundant.

7.75. Noon Halt.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

7.25. No. 4.--Water in holes; grass and fuel plenty.

3.60. Three Lakes.--Wood, water, and grass.

1.75. Crossing Puerco.--Wood, water, and grass abundant as far as Leroux Spring.

11.25. No. 5.

18.50. No. 6.

10.17. No. 7.

13.25. No. 8.

19.35. Cañon Diablo.

14.75. No. 10.

13.50. Near Cosnino Caves.

17.32. San Francisco Spring.

9.06. Leroux Spring.

8.48. No. 13.--Wood and grass, but no water.

11.13. Breckenridge Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

8.07. No. 14.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

6.50. Cedar Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

10.50. No. 15.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

19.75. Alexander's Cañon.--Wood and grass plenty; not much water.

8.05. Smith's Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

8.75. Pass Dornin.--Wood and grass abundant; no water.

13.50. No. 19.--Wood and grass abundant; no water.

16.35. No. 20.--Water two miles from camp; wood and grass plenty.

4.06. Hemphill's Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

21.25. No. 21.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.

9.75. No. 22.--Wood and grass; spring one mile distant.

5.50. No. 23.--Wood and grass plenty; no water.

8.45. No. 24.--Wood and grass; spring three miles off.

16.75. No. 25.--Wood and grass; no water.

7.25. Sabadras Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.

13.25. No. 26.--Wood; no grass or water.

8.75. Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.

1.25. No. 27.--Wood, water, and grass.

3.17. No. 28.--Wood, water, and grass.

1.25. No. 29.--Wood, water, and grass.

3.11. No. 30.--Wood, water, and grass.

3.25. No. 31.--East bank of Colorado River; wood.

No. 32.--West bank; water and grass abundant.

* * * * *

XX.--_Captain_ WHIPPLE'S _Route from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to San Pedro, California._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

Albuquerque to

0.88. Atrisco.--Permanent running water.

12.16. Isleta.--Permanent running water.

22.78. Rio Puerco.--Water in holes.

18.30. Rio Rita.--Permanent running water.

13.77. Covera.--Permanent running water.

14.66. Hay Camp.--Permanent running water.

17.71. Sierra Madre.--No water.

8.06. Agua Frio.--Permanent running water.

17.49. Inscription Rock.--El Moro. Permanent springs.

14.23. Ojo del Pescado.--Permanent springs.

11.74. Zuñi.--Permanent running water.

8.83. Arch Spring.--Permanent spring.

10.77. ....--No water.

19.69. Jacob's Well.--Permanent water-hole.

7.04. Navajo Spring.--Permanent springs.

12.13. Willow Creek.--Rio de la Jara. Water in holes.

10.87. Rio Puerco of the West.--Water in holes.

11.59. Lithodendron Creek.--Permanent running water.

11.99. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

14.42. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

8.63. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

4.94. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

1.35. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

4.90. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

10.99. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

15.88. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

4.44. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

1.51. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.

29.72. Colinino Caves.--Permanent water-holes.

11.81. Near San Francisco Spring.--No water; water 4 miles from camp.

10.46. Leroux's Spring.--Permanent water.

8.23. ....--No water.

6.17. ....--No water.

8.54. New Year's Spring.--Permanent spring.

9.77. Lava Creek.--Water in hole.

9.89. Cedar Creek.--Water in holes.

13.26. Partridge Creek.--Water in holes.

3.89. Partridge Creek.--Water in holes.

13.52. Partridge Creek.--Water in holes.

0.87. Picacho Creek.--Water in holes.

7.45. ....--No water.

8.69. Turkey Creek.--Permanent running water.

5.71. Pueblo Creek.--Permanent running water.

6.67. Pueblo Creek.--Permanent water in holes.

5.98. Pueblo Creek.--Permanent water in holes.

5.80. Cañon Creek.--Permanent water in holes.

12.16. Cañon Creek.--Permanent water in holes.

0.30. Cañon Creek.--Water in holes.

11.29. Cañon Creek.--Water in holes.

9.64. Cactus Pass.--Permanent running water.

7.97. White Cliff Creek.--Permanent running water.

11.60. Big Horn Springs.--Permanent spring.

12.83. Mouth of Cañon Creek.--Permanent running water.

9.21. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.

4.35. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.

6.21. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.

4.08. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.

6.10. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.

5.56. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.

6.44. Mouth of Big Sandy Creek.--Permanent running water as far as the Colorado River.

6.52. Rio Santa Maria.

8.97. Rio Santa Maria.

6.85. Rio Santa Maria.

7.22. Rio Santa Maria.

3.90. Rio Santa Maria.

8.69. Rio Santa Maria.

4.33. Mouth of Rio Santa Maria.

4.74. On Colorado River.

5.02. On Colorado River.

9.06. On Colorado River.

11.39. On Colorado River.

29.87. On Colorado River.

1.02. Mojave Villages.

9.46. Crossing of the Colorado River.

0.33. On Colorado River.

2.78. On Colorado River.

20.71. ....--The road, on leaving the Colorado, runs up over a gravelly ridge to a barren niesa, and descends the bed of the Mojave 4 or 5 miles above its mouth, and at 9-1/2 miles it passes springs near the point where the road turns around the western base of a mountain. There is no water at the camp, but grass in an arroya.

9.00. Pai-Uté Creek.--This is a fine stream, with good water and grass.

13.00. Arroyo.--Grass and wood; water is found by digging.

7.00. Fine Spring.--Good water and grass. The wagon-road passes around the hills, but an Indian trail leads through the ravine where the spring is.

19.00. Marl Spring.--This is a small but constant spring; excellent grass, and greasewood for fuel.

30.00. Lake.--The road follows a ridge for some distance, then descends to an arroyo, and in a few miles emerges into a sandy plain, where there is the dry bed of a lake, which is firm, and makes a smooth, good road. The camp is at some marshy pools of water. Good grass, and greasewood for fuel.

12.00. Mojave River.--Road passes through a valley of drifted sand, and at the camp strikes the river, which is here a beautiful stream of fresh water, 10 to 12 feet wide and a foot deep, with a hard, gravelly bottom. Grass in the hills near.

13.00. Mojave River.--The road ascends the river, the banks of which are covered with fine grass and mesquite wood. Good camps along here.

20.00. Mojave River.--The road leads up the river for a short distance, when it turns into an arroyo, and ascends to a low mésa, and continues along the border of a level prairie covered with fine bunch-grass. It then enters the river bottom again, which is here several miles wide, and well wooded. Grass good.

20.00. Mojave River.--Six miles from camp the road strikes the Mormon road, and crosses the stream near a Mormon camping-place. The trail runs along the river, which gets larger and has more timber on its banks as it is ascended. Good grass, wood, and water.

22.00. Mojave River.--A short distance from camp the valley contracts, but the road is good. It leaves the valley and crosses a gravelly ridge, but enters it again. Good grass, wood, and water.

15.00. Mojave River.--Road continues along the right bank of the river, in a southwest course, and crosses the river at camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

29.50. Cajou Creek.--The road leaves the river at the crossing, and runs toward a break in the San Bernadino Mountains; it ascends a sharp hill and enters a cedar thicket; it then ascends to the summit of the Cajou Pass; thence over a spur of the mountains into an arroyo or creek in a ravine; thence along the dry channel of the Cajou Creek for two miles, where the water begins to run, and from thence the road is rough to camp.

7.00. Cajou Creek.--Road continues along the creek to camp, and is rough. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

20.00. Cocomouga's Ranch.--On a pretty stream of running water. The road runs for six miles down the Cajou Creek, along its steep and rocky bed. It is here a good-sized stream. Captain Whipple's road here leaves the San Bernadino road, and turns to the west along the base of the mountains toward Los Angeles; it then crosses a prairie and strikes the ranch of Cocomouga. Wood, water, and grass.

24.00. Town of El Monté.--The road runs upon the northern border of a basin which is watered by many small streams, and is settled. The camp is on the pretty stream of San Gabriel, where there is a good camping-place.

14.25. City of Los Angeles.--The road passes the Mission of San Gabriel, then enters a ravine among hills and broken ground; it then descends and crosses the river which waters the valley, and enters the city. There is a good camp upon the point of a ridge on the left bank of the river.

23.00. San Pedro.--Good camp.

* * * * *

XXI.--_From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California._ From Lieutenant R. S. WILLIAMSON'S Report.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

Fort Yuma, on Rio Colorado, to

6.51. Pilot Knob.

5.06. Algodones.

11.18. Cook's Wells.

21.11. Alamo Mocho.

14.16. Little Laguna.

10.29. Big Laguna.

12.92. Forks of Road.--The left-hand road leads to San Diego, 139.94 miles, the right-hand to San Francisco.

17.62. Salt Creek.

28.94. Water in the Desert.--Below point of rocks.

12.60. Cohuilla Village.

15.82. Deep Well.

10.62. Hot Spring.

7.36. East base of San Gorgonio Pass.

18.29. Summit of Pass.

27.10. San Bernadino.--Mormon town.

17.60. Sycamore Grove.

14.00. Qui-qual-mun-go Ranch.

26.60. San Gabriel River.--At crossing.

6.70. Mission of San Gabriel.

9.00. Los Angeles.

10.20. Cahuengo Ranch.--At the crossing of a branch of Los Angeles River.

10.70. Mission of San Fernando.

5.90. Summit of San Fernando Pass.

7.15. Santa Clara River, southeast fork.

15.80. Summit of Coast Range.--In San Francisquito Pass.

18.00. Eastern base of Sierra Nevada.

6.70. Summit of Tejon Pass.

13.10. Dépôt Camp in the Tejon.

31.00. Kern River.--At the crossing.

10.80. Dépôt Camp on Pose Creek, or "O-co-ya."

24.30. White Creek.

14.90. More's Creek.

5.10. Tulé River.

22.00. Deep Creek.--Deep Creek is the first of four creeks, crossed by the wagon-road, into which the "Pi-pi-yu-na" divides itself after emerging from the Sierra. These streams are commonly known as the "Four Creeks."

0.29. Cameron Creek.--The second of the "Four Creeks."

3.30. Kah-wee-ya River.--The third and principal one of the "Four Creeks."

0.89. St. John's Creek.--The last of the "Four Creeks." At the crossing.

28.13. Pool's Ferry.--On King's River.

12.32. Slough of King's River.

25.73. Fort Miller.--On San Joaquin River, in the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada.

9.40. Cottonwood Creek.

7.72. Fresno River.

12.15. Chowchilla River.--Sometimes known as "Big Mariposa."

10.39. Mariposa River.

6.03. Bear Creek.

18.33. Merced River.

18.87. Davis's Ferry.--Tuolumne River.

28.85. Grayson.--A ferry on the San Joaquin River.

27.54. Elk Horn.--The distance is by the wagon-road, and is circuitous.

6.90. Summit of Livermore Pass.

7.20. Egress from Livermore Pass.

40.42. Martinez.--On the Straits of Carquives, opposite Benicia, California.

Total distance from Fort Yuma to Benicia, 800.45 miles.

* * * * *

XXII.--_A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened by Captain_ J. H. SIMPSON, U.S.A., _in_ 1858.

Miles.

Fort Bridger to

6. Branch of Black's Fork.--Wood, water, and grass.

7-1/4. Cedar on Bluffs of Muddy.--Grass and wood all the way up the ravine from the Muddy, and water at intervals.

5-1/2. Last water in ravine after leaving the Muddy.--Wood, water, and grass.

5-3/4. East Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Wood, water, and grass. Junction of Fort Supply road.

1/2. Middle Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Sage, Water, and grass.

3. West Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Willow, water, and grass; spring a mile below.

5-1/4. East Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.

1/4. Middle Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.

2-3/4. Main Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.

9-3/4. First Camp on White Clay Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.

5-1/4. White Clay Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.

15. White Clay Creek.--Good camps all along the valley of White Clay Creek.

3/4. Commencement of Cañon.--Wood, water, and grass.

1/2. White Clay Creek.--Good camps all along the valley of White Clay Creek to the end of the lower cañon.

12. Weber River.--Wood, water, and grass.

6. Parley's Park Road.--Wood, water, and grass. Pass over the divide.

3-3/4. Silver Creek.--Willows, water, and grass.

6. Timpanogos Creek.--Wood, water, and grass. Cross over the divide.

1. Commencement of Cañon.--Wood, water, and grass.

24-1/2. Cascade in Cañon.--Good camps at short intervals all along Timpanogos Cañon.

4-1/4. Mouth of Cañon.--Wood and water.

6-1/4. Battle Creek Settlement.--Purchase forage.

3-1/4. American Fork Settlement.--Purchase forage.

3. Lehi (town).--Purchase forage. Grass near.

2-3/4. Bridge over Jordan.--Grass and water; wood in the hills 1-1/2 miles distant.

14. Camp Floyd.--Wood, water, and grass.

Total distance from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, 155 miles.

NOTE.--Captain Simpson says this wagon-route is far superior to the old one in respect to grade, wood, water, and grass, and in distance about the same.

* * * * *

XXIII.--_From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California._

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

Fort Thorne, N.M., to

14.30. Water Holes.--One mile west of hole in rock. Water uncertain; no wood.

9.19. Mule Creek.---Water at all seasons a little up the creek; wood plenty.

12.00. Cook's Spring.--Water sufficient for camping; mesquite bushes on the hills.

19.50. Rio Mimbres.--Water and wood abundant.

16.30. Ojo de la Vaca.--Water and wood.

12.00. Spring.--Constant small streams two miles up the cañon; water at the road uncertain.

44.40. Rancho.--Pond of brackish water one mile to the right, four miles before reaching here.

13.90. Rio St. Simon.--Constant water a few miles up, and mesquite wood.

18.40. Pass in the Mountains.--Water on the left about two miles after entering the Pass.

6.40. Arroya.--Wood one mile up; water uncertain; small stream crossing the road 1-1/2 miles from last camp.

26.30. Nugent's Spring.--Large spring.--Excellent water one mile south, at Playa St. Domingo.

17.20. Cañon.--To the left of the road. Water 1-1/2 miles up the canon, two miles from the road.

17.00. Rio San Pedro.--Water and wood abundant.

16.30. San Pedro.--Water abundant; wood distant.

20.80. Cienequilla.--Water and wood abundant.

7.30. Along Cienequilla.--Water and wood abundant; road rough.

21.80. Mission of San Xavier.--Large mesquite, and water plenty in Santa Cruz River.

8.00. Tucson.--Village on Santa Cruz River. Tucson is the last green spot on the Santa Cruz River. The best camping-ground is two miles beyond the village, where the valley widens, and good grass and water are abundant.

7.20. Mud Holes.--The road passes over arroyas, but is rather level.

65.00. Agua Hermal.--Road passes over a desert section, and is hard and level. Water is found in most seasons, except in early summer, in natural reservoirs on an isolated mountain about midway, called "Picapo;" poor water and tall, coarse grass at the mud-holes. Road here strikes the Rio Gila.

15.10. Los Pimos.--Road follows the river bottom. Lagoon of bad water near camp. Grass good; plenty of cottonwood and mesquite.

13.20. Los Maricopas.--Road takes the river bottom, and passes through cultivated fields; soil and grass good. The Indian village is on a gravelly hill. The road is good.

40.00. El Tegotal.--The road leaves the river and crosses the desert. No water between this and the last camp at the Maricopas' village. Road is good. The calita abounds here, and the mules are fond of it.

10.50. Pega del Rio.--Road runs in the river bottom, and is level.

Rincon de Vega.--Road runs in the river bottom, and is level. Good grass.

10.50. Mal Pais.--Road continues near the river, but over low gravel-hills and through a short cañon of deep sand.

9.50. Mil Flores.--Pass over a very steep precipice to an elevated plateau, thence over gravel-hills 4-1/2 miles to camp, where there is excellent grass and wood.

13.70. Santado.--Road keeps the river bottom until within four miles of camp, when it turns over the plateau. Good grass.

16.70. Las Lonas.--Road follows the river bottom. Scattered bunch-grass on the hills.

11.40. Vegas.--Road follows along the river bottom. Grass poor.

16.80. Metate.--Road runs along at the foot of a rugged mountain. Excellent grass at the camp.

14.70. El Horral.--Road ascends to the plateau, which it follows for seven miles over a level country, then descends over gravelly hills to the river. Camp on the river bank near the desert. Wood plenty.

20.80. Los Algodones.--Road runs along at the foot of the hills or spurs of the desert; small rugged hills, vegetation dwarf mesquit, cacti, etc. Good grass at camp.

7.40. Fort Yuma, on the Rio Colorado.

Total distance from Fort Thorne, N.M., to Fort Yuma, 571 miles.

* * * * *

XXIV.--_Lieutenant_ BRYAN'S _Route from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger_, via _Bridger's Pass._

Miles.

Laramie Crossing to

14. Bryan's Crossing.--Road runs on the south side of the Platte. Good grass and water.

12. First Crossing of Pole Creek.--Pole Creek is a rapid stream, sandy bed, 15 feet wide, and two feet deep. Good grass on the creek, and wood three miles off on the bluffs.

37. Second Crossing of Pole Creek.--Road runs along the creek. Good grass and good camps at any point. Good road.

17-1/4. Third Crossing of Pole Creek.--Good camp. Wood on the bluffs.

20-1/2. Fourth Crossing of Pole Creek.--Creek dry for three miles. Good grass.

20-1/4. Bluffs covered with dead pines.--Creek is crossed several times. Road runs over a rough, broken country. Good grass.

14-1/2. Road from Fort Laramie to New Mexico.--Road rather rough. The valley opens out into a wide plain. Plenty of grass.

10-1/2. On Pole Creek.--Good road; good camp.

20. On Pole Creek.--Road crosses several ravines, most of which can be avoided by keeping on the bluffs; the valley is narrow. Grass not very good.

17-1/2. Cheyenne Pass.--Road passes over a rolling country. Good grass; willows for fuel. Military post established here.

14-1/2. Summit of Black Hills.--Source of Pole Creek. Grass poor.

10-1/4. East Fork of Laramie River.--Good camp.

16. West Fork of Laramie River.--Good camp. Cherokee trail comes in here.

14. Cooper's Creek.--Wood and grass.

10-1/2. East Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.--Wood and grass as far as Pass Creek.

2-1/2. Small Creek.

6. Birch Creek.

5-1/4. West Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.

2. Flint's Creek.

3. Elm Creek.

7. Rattlesnake Creek.

5. Pass Creek.

14-1/2. North Fork of the Platte.--Good road over high prairie. Five miles before reaching the river the Cherokee trail turns to the left, and crosses three miles above. Good camps on the river.

3-1/2. First Crossing of Sage Creek.--Good road. Grass not plenty.

10-1/2. Second Crossing of Sage Creek.--Road runs through Sage Creek Valley; hilly, broken, and sterile country, covered with sage-brush. Grass not abundant. Cherokee trail leaves three miles back.

4. Third Crossing of Sage Creek.--Road continues through sage-brush. Grass gets better.

3. Fourth Crossing of Sage Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water.

9. Bridger's Pass.--Road runs over a hilly country, crossing several small branches, with a little grass upon their banks; country covered with sage.

3-1/2. Muddy Creek.--The valley of the "Muddy" is deep and narrow at first, and afterward opens out. The crossings of this creek were either bridged or paved by the troops in 1858. But little grass in this valley.

20-1/2. Near Muddy Creek.--Very little grass; poor camp.

16-1/2. Bridger's Fork of the Muddy Creek.--The road for thirteen miles runs over a rolling country, then over a rough, broken country, with deep ravines. No water in this fork in a dry season; small springs of brackish water near the crossing. Grass poor.

4. Small Spring.--Water bad; grass poor.

2-1/2. Small Spring.--In the bluff. Water bad; grass poor.

1. Haystack.--Clay butte. Spring in the dry bed of the creek. Bunch-grass.

5-1/2. Small Springs.--In bluffs on the right of the road. Grass poor and water bad.

7-1/2. Springs.--There is a fine spring at the foot of a steep hill on the south side of the road. Very little grass; rushes on the creek.

3-1/2. South Fork of Bitter Creek.--Good grass and water.

14-3/4. On Bitter Creek.--Country hilly, and intersected with deep ravines. South Fork is a fine stream of good water.

16. Sulphur Springs.--Road very hilly, crossing many deep ravines. Grass and sage plenty.

9. Bitter Creek Crossing.--No grass at the crossing. Water bitter when the creek is down, but tolerable in high water. Road rough, with numerous ravines.

18-1/2. North Fork of Bitter Creek.--Cherokee trail enters near the crossing. Road good, but little grass except in spots. Sage for fuel.

4. Bluffs.--Springs of good water in the elevated bluffs on the right of the road in the cottonwood groves. Grass good and abundant at the base of the bluffs.

11-3/4. Green River.--Road is very rough and hilly, and winds along the valley of the creek. Good camp on the river, with plenty of wood and grass.

15-3/4. Crossing of Black's Fork.--Road runs up through Rabbit Hollow, which is steep and sandy; it then passes over rolling prairie to Black's Fork. Bunch-grass on the hills, and good camp at the crossing.

11-1/4. Fort Laramie Road.--Rolling country; good road through sage bushes. Good camps along the creek.

5-3/4. Ham's Fork.--Good camp on either side of the creek. United States bridge here; good road.

3/4. Black's Fork Crossing.--Good ford except in high water, when the right-hand road on the north bank of the creek is generally traveled.

14-1/2. Fourth Crossing of Black's Fork.--Good road; fine camp; plenty of wood, water, and grass.

2-3/4. Fifth Crossing of Black's Fork.--Good camp; good road.

2-3/4. Smith's Fork.--Good camp; good road.

11-3/4. Fort Bridger.--Good camp near; good road.

Total distance from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger, 520-1/2 miles. By the Fort Laramie road the distance is 569 miles.

* * * * *

XXV.--_Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah._

Miles.

Denver City to

5. Vasquez Fork.--Good road and fine camp.

19-1/2. Thompson's Fork.--Road crosses three creeks about five miles apart, is good, and the camp is well supplied with water and grass, but wood is scarce.

16-1/2. Bent's Fork.--Road crosses two streams about five miles apart; no wood on the first. Good camp.

26. Cashe la Poudre River.--Excellent road crossing two streams at ten and twenty-three miles from the last camp; good camps on both. Cashe la Poudre is a fine large stream which issues from the mountains near the road, and is difficult to cross in high water. It has a firm bottom. Good camps along this stream, with plenty of wood and grass.

16. Beaver Creek.--Road turns to the left and enters the hills, ascending very gradually between two lines of bluffs, and is good except in wet weather. Good camp.

19. Small Branch.--Road crosses Beaver Creek three times, affording good camps. Road is hilly, but not very rough, passing for a portion of the distance through a timbered region. Elk and mountain sheep are abundant in this section. The camp is near the summit of the divide. Grass short.

17-1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.--Good road on the divide. Grass and water plenty, but wood not abundant.

18-1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.--Road passes Laramie Fork three miles from the last camp. Good camp.

21. Tributary of Laramie River.--Road crosses a small creek at 14 miles from last camp. Fine camp.

17. Medicine Bow Creek.--At twelve miles the road crosses Sulphur Spring Creek, and at the West Fork of the Laramie Lieutenant Bryan's road enters. At ten miles from the last camp there are two roads--one, Bryan's, leading north of the Medicine Bow Butte, and the other to the south of it. The former is the best. Good camp.

17-1/2. Prairie Creek.--Fine camp. A portion of the road is very rough. It crosses several small branches upon which good camps may be had. Fine game section, with bear, elk, etc., in great abundance.

12-1/2. North Fork of the Platte.--Excellent camp. Leave Bryan's road four miles back, taking the left, which is altogether the best of the two. The crossing of the Platte is good except in high water, when it is very rapid. A flat-boat was left here by Colonel Loring's command in 1858.

12-1/2. Clear Creek.--Sage for fuel; grass short.

23. Dry Creek.--Road leaves Bryan's trail to Bridger's Pass, and bears to the right, passing over a smooth country covered with sage and poorly watered; passes a pond of milky water at thirteen miles. There is water in Dry Creek except in a very dry season. Two miles from the creek, on the old trail, there is a fine spring on the left of the road, which runs down into the road, and here is the best grass after leaving the Platte, with plenty of fuel.

10-1/2. Muddy Creek.--Road leaves the old Cherokee trail at Dry Creek, and bears to the left. Good camp for a limited number of animals; fine grass along near the bank of the creek. Bad crossing. Buffalo seen here.

19-1/2. Lake.--Old trail enters near this camp. Road passes a brackish spring four miles back. The road may be shortened by bearing to the left and skirting the hills for about six miles before reaching the lake. The water in the lake is not good, but drinkable, and will be abundant except in the very dryest part of the summer. Grass is good on the hills. The road from Dry Creek is shorter than the old road by 30 miles.

24-1/2. Red Lakes.--Road is good, but traverses a very dry and sterile region. The water is not good in the lakes, but drinkable, and may go dry in midsummer. Grass tolerable.

22. Seminoes Spring.--After passing the flats at the Red Lakes the road is smooth and good, and there is a good camp at Seminoes Spring.

12-1/2. Bitter Creek.--New road to the left, cutting off ten or twelve miles. Good camp; water a little saline, but drinkable.

25. Sulphur Spring.--Road runs along the valley of Bitter Creek, where there is but little grass until reaching camp. Animals should be driven across the creek into the hills, where the best grass is found.

17. Green River.--Road leaves Bitter Creek at Sulphur Spring, and passes near, some high bluffs, where there are small springs and good grass. Excellent camp at Green River. From here the road runs over the same track as Bryan's road to Fort Bridger. From all the information I have been able to obtain regarding Lieutenant Bryan's road from Sage Creek through Bridger's Pass, and thence down the Muddy Creek, I am inclined to believe that the road we traveled is much the best. It is said that Lieutenant Bryan's route from Bridger's Pass to Green River has a scarcity of grass. The water is brackish, and the supply limited, and may fail altogether in a dry season. The road passes through deep valleys and cañons, crossing muddy creeks and deep ravines. The creeks have been bridged and the ravines cut down so as to form a practicable road; but freshets will probably occur in the spring, which will destroy a great deal of the work, and may render the road impassable.--_Lieutenant Duane's Notes._

The other road is for the greater part of the distance smooth, and has a sufficiency of grass in places, but the water may become scarce in a very dry season.

* * * * *

XXVI.--_From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney._

Nebraska City, on the Missouri River, is a point from whence a large amount of the supplies for the army in Utah are sent, and one of the contractors, Mr. Alexander Majors, speaks of this route in the following terms: "The military road from Fort Leavenworth crosses very many tributaries of the Kansas River, the Soldier, the Grasshopper, etc., etc., which are at all times difficult of passage. There are no bridges, or but few, and those of but little service. From Nebraska City to Fort Kearney, which is a fixed point for the junction of all roads passing up the Platte, we have but one stream of any moment to cross. That one is Salt Creek, a stream which is now paved at a shallow ford with solid rock.

"There is no other stream which, even in a high freshet, would stop a train a single day. Again, upon this route we have an abundance of good grazing every foot of the way to Fort Kearney. The route from Nebraska City is about 100 miles shorter to Fort Kearney than that from Fort Leavenworth, the former being less than 200 miles and the latter about 300 miles."

From Nebraska City to Salt Creek is...... 40 miles. From Salt Creek to Elm Creek is.......... 60 " From Elm Creek to Fort Kearney is........ 100 "

Upon the entire route there is an abundance of wood, water, and grass, and camping-places frequent.

* * * * *

XXVII.--_From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico._ By Colonel W. W. LORING, U.S.A.

Miles.

Camp Floyd to

23. Goshen.--The road runs through Cedar Valley; is level and good for 11 miles, to where the road forks. The left runs near the lake, and has good camps upon it. Thence to a fine spring, where there is a good camp, is 3 miles. Grass continues good to the camp near Goshen. Wood, water, and grass abundant.

14. Salt Creek.--Road runs over a mountain in a direct course to a fine spring branch, which runs into Salt Creek at 3-1/2 miles, where is a good camp; thence through a meadow to a small branch 3 miles, striking the old Mormon road again opposite a mud fort, where there is a fine spring and good camp; thence into the valley of Salt Creek, where there are good camps.

18. Pleasant Creek.--Near the last camp the road forks, one running to Nephi, a small Mormon village, the other to Salt Creek Cañon, which is the one to be taken. The road runs up the cañon 5 miles; thence up its small right-hand fork to a spring, 3 miles; thence to camp. Good camps can be found any where after crossing Salt Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

19-1/2. Willow Creek.--Road at 6-1/2 miles passes a fine spring; half a mile farther is another spring, where the road forks. Take the right through a meadow; it is 3 or 4 miles shorter. To the crossing is 3 miles; thence to the main road again 3 miles; to the village of Ephraim 5 miles. Good camp.

12. Lediniquint Creek.--At 6 miles pass Manti; thence to Salt and Sulphur Springs is 3 miles. Good camp, with a fine spring, wood, and grass.

15. Lediniquint Creek.--Road passes over a rugged country for 4 miles, to a creek; thence one mile it crosses another creek; thence 2-1/2 miles up the creek, where there is a good camp. The road improves, and for 8 or 9 miles camps can be found by leaving the creek a short distance. The creek on which the camp is muddy, with narrow channel.

18. Onapah Creek, or Salt Creek.--Road is good over a barren country to the pointed red hills near the entrance to Wasatch Pass, 7 miles. From the red hills cross Salt Creek 3 times in 4 miles; grass fair at 2d crossing; very good at 3d crossing, and a good camp. Road rough for 3 miles after leaving the creek. The road then enters a fine valley, with plenty of blue and bunch grass. Road is level to within a mile of the camp. Wood, water, and grass abundant at camp.

7-1/2. Head of Branch of Salt Creek.--Road runs over a ridge at 2 miles, thence one mile to a small branch. Grass abundant. Road runs along the branch 3 miles; in places very rough, with some sand; ascends the entire distance, and the camp is very elevated. Good spring at camp.

5-3/4. Salt Creek.--Road passes over a ridge 2-1/2 miles to a spring. Good camp at this spring. Colonel Loring worked the road at this place. It crosses the creek 6 times within the 5-3/4 miles. Good camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

6-1/2. Silver Creek.--Road traverses a rolling section, is good, passes several springs where there are good camps, and crosses several trails which lead from California to New Mexico.

17-1/2. Media Creek.--At two miles the road passes the dividing ridge between the waters of Salt Lake and Green River; thence two miles' descent to Shipley Creek, where is a good camp. For about a mile the road is rough, but then descends into an open plain where the road is good. The ground is rough about the camp, and covered with sage and greasewood. Two miles up the creek, near the cañon, is some grass, but it is not abundant here.

19-3/4. St. Raphael Creek.--Road passes a rolling section for 5 miles; thence 1-1/2 mile to Garamboyer Creek, where there is a good camp; thence, with the exception of a short distance, the road is good to the Knobs, 9 miles, when it is broken for 4-1/2 miles. Good camp.

11-3/4. San Matio Creek.--For 3 miles the road is over a rolling section, with steep hills, to a creek, where is a good camp; thence, for 3 miles along the creek, soft soil and heavy road; thence 5 miles to another creek, some grass, but not plenty; thence to camp the road is rough in places. Good camp.

14-1/4. In the Hills.--Road runs over a rolling country 2-1/2 miles to San Marcos, or Tanoje Creek, where there is good grass and water, with sage. Two miles farther over a gravelly road, then a good plain road for 9-3/4 miles to camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

23. Spring.--Road for the first ten miles is rocky, when it strikes a spring, where there is a good camp; thence 2 miles to water in a tank, not permanent; thence the road is on a ridge for 6 miles, and is good; thence 3 miles the road is sandy. The spring at camp is large, with plenty of wood, but the grass is scarce. Down the creek it is more abundant.

18. Green River.--For 5 miles the road is sandy; thence the road is good for the remainder of the distance to camp, where there is plenty of wood, water, and grass.

13. 13-Mile Spring.--Green River can be forded at ordinary stages. Road runs among several arroyas for a few miles, and is then straight and good to camp. Good grass a mile to the east of camp.

An Arroya.--Road runs between two rocky buttes, and strikes the Mormon trail, which leaves Green River at the same place, but is very tortuous. Water not permanent here; good grass three fourths of a mile from camp.

20-1/4. Cottonwood Creek.--Road passes over a broken country to a water-hole, 9 miles; grass abundant; thence there is sand in places: crosses several arroyas. Camp is between two mountains. Wood, water, and grass abundant.

12. Grand River.--Road is over a rolling country; in places light sand and heavy for wagons. Good camp.

13. Grand River.--Road is rolling and sandy. The Mormon road runs nearer the mountains, and Colonel Loring thinks it is better than the one he traveled. Good camp.

16-3/4. 1-1/2 mile from Grand River.--The first 3 miles is level, then the road passes over a very elevated ridge, and descends into the valley. Grand River runs through a cañon, and can not be reached with the animals. Road in places sandy. Good camp.

9-1/2. Grand River.--At two miles strike Salt Creek, where the Mormon road passes up a dry creek toward Gray Mountain. Road skirts the mountains along Grand River, and is rough in places, passing over abrupt hills. Good camp.

16-3/4. Grand River.--Road runs over a level and firm section, with good camps at any point along the river. Cross the Mormon and other trails. Good ford at the crossing except in high water. Good camp.

18-1/2. On an Arroya.--Road runs over an undulating surface, crossing several small streams issuing from Elk Mountain, affording good camps at almost any place, and strikes Marcy's and Gunnison's trails. Good camp.

15-1/4. Grand River.--Rolling country; high ridges with abrupt slopes for 6-1/4 miles; thence into a plain for 7-1/4 miles to Double Creek. Good camps.

12. Oncompagre River.--Good ford except in high water. At 6 miles cross a dry creek; thence 3 miles over a high, level, and firm road; strike a large trail; descend a hill with gentle slope into the Valley of Oncompagre, where there are fine camps. Winter resort for Uté Indians.

14-1/2. Oncompagre River.--Road runs along the valley of the Oncompagre, is good, and camps may be found at any point, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.

13. Cedar Creek.--Road leaves the Oncompagre, and bears to the east up Cedar Creek to the gap in the mountains, 6 miles; thence up the valley of Cedar Creek to camp, where are wood, water, and grass. The Gap is the first opening in the mountains above the mouth of the Oncompagre.

8-3/4. Devil's Creek.--Road runs to the head of Cedar Creek, over the divide, into the valley of Devil's Creek, and is rough, with a steep descent. Camp is near a narrow cañon called Devil's Gate, with high perpendicular bluffs. Good camp.

3. North Fork of Devil's Creek.--Road very rocky, and worked by Colonel Loring. Marcy's and Gunnison's trails pass here. Good camp.

7-3/4. Cebola Creek.--Road passes over abrupt hills covered with pine. Good camp.

5-1/2. Ruidos Creek.--Road rough, with abrupt ascents and descents. Fine creek 5 feet wide, and good camp.

13. Grand River.--Road rather smooth for the first 3 miles, then rough and rocky, crossing several creeks, and descending into the valley of the Grand or Eagle-tail River, where is a good camp. Plenty of brook trout in all the streams in this section.

14-1/2. Grand River.--Road crosses the river three times; bottom wide; grass and wood abundant. Cross several beautiful streams, upon which are good camps. Some sand and rough places, but generally good road. Game and brook trout abundant in this region. Indians resort to this section a great deal.

18. Cutebetope Creek.--At about 5 miles the Cutebetope Creek enters, forming at the confluence a beautiful valley, which the road crosses, and strikes the creek near the Point of Rocks, where the valley is only 40 yards wide, but after passing the Point it opens again. The course of the creek is nearly north. Good camps.

20. Spring near Beaver Creek.--Road crosses several small creeks, where are good camping-places. Good camp.

16-3/4. Sawatch Creek.--Road runs over a very rough and mountainous section for 14 miles to the summit of the Rocky Mountains; thence it descends to camp, where grass, wood, and water are abundant.

21-1/2. Sawatch Creek.--Road rough and rocky in places; strikes the main Sawatch Creek at 9-1/2 miles; crosses numerous small branches, where are grass, wood, and good water in abundance.

25-1/2. Camero Creek.--Road for 7 miles, to Sawatch Buttes, is good; thence 1-1/2 mile to the last crossing of the Sawatch, where is a good camping-place. Good camp at Camero Creek.

3-1/2. Garita Creek.--Good road and good camp.

16-1/2. Rio Grande.--Road level and good. Good camps along the river at almost any point.

6. Rio Grande.--Good road and camp.

17-1/2. Fort Garland, Hay Camp.--Road continues down the river, and is good. For six miles there is timber, but after this willow is the only wood to camp. Good road. Hay is cut at this place for Forts Massachusetts and Garland.

16. Culebra Creek.--At 4-3/4 miles cross Trinchera Creek, where is a good camp. Road rather sandy. Good camps any where on Culebra Creek.

24-3/4. Latos Creek.--Road tolerable to Costilla Creek, 10-3/4 miles. Good camp.

14. Ascequia, near Lama Creek.--Road crosses several small branches. At 9-1/2 miles strike Red River. Grass at camp good, but not abundant.

19-3/4. Meadow near Indian Puebla.--At 6 miles the road crosses the San Christobal; thence over another ridge into the valley of the Rio Hondo. Camp 2 miles from Taos.

2. Taos, New Mexico.--Good road. At Taos are several stores, where goods of all descriptions can be had at fair prices.

13. Taos Creek Cañon.--Road passes through the settlement, where grain and vegetables can be obtained. It then enters the Taos Cañon at 3 miles, and crosses the Cañon Creek frequently to camp. Good camp.

29. Gaudelapepita.--At 5 miles the road ascends to the dividing ridge, and is tolerable; thence in 4 miles cross the mountain, and reach a fine spring branch, where is a fine camp. Thence the road passes short ridges for 9 miles to Black Lake. Good camp.

Fort Union.--Road follows Coyote Cañon 3 miles; thence one mile to Mexican settlement; thence 19-1/2 miles over the prairie to the fort.

* * * * *

Colonel Loring came over the route from Camp Floyd to Fort Union with a large train of wagons. He, however, found the road in many places upon the mountains very rough, and it will require working before it will be suitable for general travel with loaded wagons. It is an excellent route for summer travel with pack trains, and is well supplied with the requisites for encamping.

From Fort Union to Fort Garland the road passes through a settled country, where supplies of grain and vegetables can at all times be purchased at reasonable prices, and there are small towns met with during almost every day's march where small shops supply such articles of merchandise as the traveler needs.

* * * * *

XXVIII.--_Wagon-route from Guaymas, New Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona._ From Captain STONE'S Journal.

Miles.

Guaymas to

10-1/4. Rancho del Cavallo.--Good wood, water, and grass.

9. Rancho de la Noche Buena.--Good wood and grass, but no water for animals in May and June.

19-5/8. Rancho de la Cuneguinta.--Good wood, water, and grass the year round; water in tanks and wells.

15-3/4. Rancho del Posito.--Good wood and grass the year round; water for men at all times, and for animals except in the months of May and June.

8. Rancho de la Palma.--Wood, water, and grass at all times.

16-3/8. Rancho de la Paza.--Good wood, water, and grass at all seasons.

16. Hermosillo.--This is a town of 10,000 inhabitants, on Sonora River, where all supplies may be procured.

13. Hacienda de Alamito.--Plenty of running water, wood, grass, and grain.

8. Hacienda de la Labor.--Plenty of running water, grass, and grain.

28. Rancho de Tabique.--Roughest part of the road, but not difficult for wagons. Wood, water, and grass. From Hermosillo to this place there is water at short intervals along the road.

36. Rancho Querebabi.--Wood and grass; water in tanks.

12. Barajita.--Small mining village. Bad water; good wood and grass.

13. Santa Aña.--Village on the River San Ignacio. Plenty of wood, water, and grass.

12. La Magdalena.--Thriving town, where all supplies can be procured.

5. San Ignacio.--Village on the river. Good wood, water, and grass.

6-3/4. Imuris.--Village on the river. Wood, water, and grass.

11-1/2. Los Alisos Rancho.--Wood, water, and grass.

3-1/2. La Casita.--Wood, water, and grass.

3-1/2. Cíbuta.--Wood, water, and grass.

11-1/4. Agua Zarca.--Wood, water, and grass.

23-1/4. Rancho de las Calabasas.--Wood, water, and grass.

13. Tubac.--Silver mines at this place.

Total distance from Guaymas to Tubac, 295 miles.

NOTE.--During the months of July, August, and September, water will be found at almost any part of the road from La Casita to Hermosillo. There is no lack of wood or grass on any part of the road from Guaymas to the frontier. The only difficulty in encamping at almost any point upon the road is that of obtaining water in the dry season, _i.e._, from February to the first of July. The remarks for each place apply to the most unfavorable seasons.

APPENDIX.

A. _Portable Boat._

A boat has been invented by Colonel R. C. Buchanan, of the army, which has been used in several expeditions in Oregon and in Washington Territory, and has been highly commended by several experienced officers who have had the opportunity of giving its merits a practical service test.

It consists of an exceedingly light framework of thin and narrow boards, in lengths suitable for packing, connected by hinges, the different sections folding into so small a compass as to be conveniently carried upon mules. The frame is covered with a sheet of stout cotton canvas, or duck, secured to the gunwales with a cord running diagonally back and forth through eyelet-holes in the upper edge.

When first placed in the water the boat leaks a little, but the canvas soon swells so as to make it sufficiently tight for all practical purposes. The great advantage to be derived from the use of this boat is, that it is so compact and portable as to be admirably adapted to the requirements of campaigning in a country where the streams are liable to rise above a fording stage, and where the allowance of transportation is small.

It may be put together or taken apart and packed in a very few minutes, and one mule suffices to transport a boat, with all its appurtenances, capable of sustaining ten men.

Should the canvas become torn, it is easily repaired by putting on a patch, and it does not rot or crack like India-rubber or gutta-percha; moreover, it is not affected by changes of climate or temperature.

B. _Winter Traveling._

In traveling through deep snow, horses will be found much better than mules, as the latter soon become discouraged, lie down, and refuse to put forth the least exertion, while the former will work as long as their strength holds out.

When the snow is dry, and not deeper than 2-1/2 feet, horses in good condition, will walk through it without much difficulty, and throw aside the snow so as to open quite a track. If there are several horses they should be changed frequently, as the labor upon the leading one is very severe. When the snow is deeper than 2-1/2 feet, it becomes very difficult for animals to wade through it, and they soon weary and give out. The best plan, under such circumstances (and it is the one I adopted in crossing the Rocky Mountains, where the snow was from two to five feet upon the ground), is to place all the disposable men in advance of the animals to break the track, requiring them to alternate from front to rear at regular intervals of time. In this manner a track is beaten over which animals pass with comparative ease.

When the snow increases to about four feet, it is impossible for the leading men to walk erect through it, and two or three of them are compelled to crawl upon their hands and knees, all being careful to place their hands and feet in the same holes that have been made by those in advance. This packs the snow so that it will sustain the others walking erect, and after 20 or 30 have passed it becomes sufficiently firm to bear up the animals. This, of course, is an exceedingly laborious and slow process, but it is the only alternative when a party finds itself in the midst of very deep snows in a wilderness. Animals, in walking over such a track as has been mentioned, will soon acquire the habit of placing their feet in the holes that have been made by the men; and, indeed, if they lose the step or miss the holes, they will fall down or sink to their bellies.

Early in the winter, when the snow first falls in the Rocky Mountains, it is so light and dry that snow-shoes can not be used to advantage. We tried the experiment when we crossed the mountains in December and January, but found it impossible to walk upon them.

Should a party, in a country where the snow is deep, have the misfortune to lose its animals by freezing, the journey can not be continued for any great length of time without devising some method of transporting subsistence besides that of carrying it upon the backs of the men, as they are unable to break a track through deep snow when loaded down in this way.

The following plan has suggested itself to me as being the most feasible, and it is the one I resolved to adopt in the event of losing our mules faster than we required them for subsistence when we passed the Mountains.

Take willow, or other flexible rods, and make long sleds, less in width than the track, securing the cross-pieces with rawhide thongs. Skin the animals, and cut the hides into pieces to fit the bottom of the sleds, and make them fast, with the hair on the upper side. Attach a raw-hide thong to the front for drawing it, and it is complete. In a very cold climate the hide soon freezes, becomes very solid, and slips easily over the snow. The meat and other articles to be transported are then placed upon the sled so as not to project over the sides, and lashed firmly. Lieutenant Cresswell, who was detached from Captain M'Clure's ship in the Arctic regions in 1853, says his men dragged 200 pounds each upon sledges over the ice. They could not, of course, pull as much over deep snow, but it is believed that they would have no difficulty in transporting half this amount, which would be sufficient to keep them from starvation at least fifty days.

I am quite confident that a party of men who find themselves involved in deep snows, dependent solely upon their own physical powers, and without beasts of burden, can prolong their lives for a greater time, travel farther, and perform more labor by adopting the foregoing suggestions than in any other way.

C. _Indian Signals._

When Indians are pursued by a large force, and do not intend to make resistance, they generally scatter as much as possible, in order to perplex and throw off those who follow their trail, but they have an understanding where they are to rendezvous in advance. Sometimes, however, circumstances may arise during a rapid flight making it necessary for them to alter these plans, and turn their course in another direction. When this happens, they are in the habit of leaving behind them some well-understood signals to indicate to their friends in the rear the change in their-movements.

For instance, they will sometimes leave a stick or other object to attract attention, and under this bury an arrow pointing in the new direction they intend to take. They will then continue on for a time in the course they have been pursuing, until they get upon hard ground, where it is difficult to see their tracks, then gradually turn their course in the new direction.

THE END.