Part 6

Shading from dark to light colors is the result of submerging one portion of the feather in the bath and withholding the balance. Great care and not a little skill is needed to produce a satisfactory result. There are various ways of handling the goods, covering up the portions to remain the light shade or holding them out with the hands. Spotted or speckled feathers are produced by first dyeing the light shade that you desire to be spotted, and then wrapping around a round stick with cord, according to the size you desire to have the spots, you will regulate the weight of cord used. After having bound the cord tightly around the feather and stick, which must then be tied firmly to keep from slipping, pass through boiling water for a few seconds for the purpose of expanding the wood and contracting the cord, thereby making the cord much tighter. After you have made them whatever dark color you desire, take out, starch and pass through dry starch; then remove cord and dry your feathers, when you will find that the portion covered by the cord will be the light shade, and the feathers have the appearance of being dotted all over.

Natural blacks or grays can be speckled as follows: Go through the same preparations of binding around stick with cord and degrading or bleaching them white. The result will be that the portion covered with cord will be same as before entering the bath, a black or dark brown, and the body of the feathers will be white. Should you desire the feathers dyed any light color to contrast with the dark spots; before removing the cord, mix your bath and dye as per recipe, dry as before directed, and the result is very beautiful. Some very nice effects are produced in shading by taking natural grays or bioucs, that is, feathers that are one portion white and the balance in spots, black.

PARING, STEAMING AND CURLING.

Feathers that have just come out of the dyehouse for the first time require paring, which consists in removing the quill from the inner portion of the feather, thereby making the feathers more elastic. The feathers must first be thoroughly dried; they are then taken, one at a time, held between the thumb and two fore fingers of the left hand, while, with a knife held in the right, the inner quill is rapidly removed close to the flues or fibres. This branch of the business is in itself a trade, and requires a great amount of skill and caution to prevent cutting through the quill. The feather can be made still more limber by scraping the quill with a piece of glass. Of course, this process of paring the quill is only used in new work. In re-dying old feathers it is never needed; in old work it is only necessary to dry up thoroughly, steam and curl. A great many have no knowledge of what relation steaming has to the finishing of feathers. It has the effect of making all the flues lie perfectly straight beside each other, and also dampens the feathers just enough to assist the curler in her work.

It is necessary to have a steamer made as follows: get a kettle that will hold about one gallon or more of water, made out of plain tin, with a spout commencing at the base about two inches in width and tapering up to a half inch in width at top. The spout should be about eighteen inches in length; the total cost should not be more than one dollar. Never have it more than half full of water, and you can boil it on either an ordinary stove or common gas or oil stove.

You may ask why steam from the boiler, or out of an ordinary tea-kettle would not answer? It is too wet. Instead of having the desired effect it wets the flues, while the other dampens it just enough. The steam emitted from the steam kettle is drier than any other.

When the steam is passing through the tube take hold of the feathers by either end and pass backward and forward for a few seconds about two inches above the top of pipe, and lay down perfectly flat, one on top of the other. Curling is a trade that can only be thoroughly mastered by practice; the principles can be taught, but only practice will make perfect. It does not, however, require a great while. I have known persons that within three months had become first-class curlers, practicing a short time each day.

The feather is held between the first and second finger and thumb of the left hand and a few flues taken up at a time with the knife held in the right hand, and gently drawn along the round dull edge of the knife, and allowed to drop in a half circle; begin at the bottom of the right hand side of the feather, work up to the top and around and down the other side; and in laying up take up about three flues at a time, skipping about six. Feminine fingers are generally better adapted to this work than others, and, in fact, it is more of a woman's work than a man's.

Tips are generally bent and branched. You can give the feathers a nice droop by taking the quill between the thumb and fore-finger, and with the thumb pressing the quill through between the first and second finger. Begin about the middle of the feather, and, shifting about a quarter inch at a time, pass swiftly up towards the top, when the feathers will have a very beautiful droop. Plain wire stems can be used. Take thin wire, cut about five inches in length, and twist one end of it on stem or quill of your feathers so as to hold; then take tissue paper, cut in strips about a half inch wide, and in color corresponding with the shade of feathers; wrap it around wire to entirely cover it up, and then branch tips, two or three in a bunch, as suits your fancy.

NOTE OF THE PUBLISHER.

The old maxim, that "seeing is believing," applies perhaps nowhere more than in dyeing. All those who have availed themselves of the opportunity to see the method of dyeing ostrich feathers practically executed before their eyes by the author, as described in the foregoing pages, are satisfied of and willingly testify to its superiority over any of the methods heretofore known, practiced and often acquired at the cost of much money, time and trouble, and which, in many cases, when put to the practical test, failed to give the desired results. Yet there are probably many more disbelievers than believers in any new method, however freely and truthfully certified to, who mistrust the quick work of our new processes of ostrich feather dyeing, and who would rather prefer to operate after a somewhat slow but (in their opinion) therefore surer, older method. They shall not be disappointed by perusing our book and in looking up something which they would want to try in practice, and for them especially we supplement our book with the following Appendix, containing a number of practically tested recipes for dyeing ostrich feathers.

APPENDIX.

GENERAL REMARKS.

The cultivated taste of the present age, requiring a large variety of natural and artificially produced or embellished material for adornment, employs almost any kind of bird's feathers, either in their natural coloring or dyed. None of them, however, are used in the condition as they are plucked from the body of the live or dead bird, but all must undergo a cleaning process, which not only serves to improve their appearance, but is an exceedingly essential requisite for the preservation of the material from decay and the attacks of moth and other insects, and is, above all, the first condition and indispensable preparatory operation for dyeing feathers, whether the costly feather of the ostrich or the common feather of our domestic chicken or pigeon. The cleaning or washing process is the same for all kinds of feathers; the ostrich feather, however, requires drying after every treatment in a bath, and a special operation for the purpose of opening the fine flues, which gives the plumage of the ostrich its characteristic and distinguishing beauty and rich, downy appearance of luxurious softness.

The feathers of the ostrich, which are used for dress-feathers, are taken from the wings and tail of the bird, whose spurred wings, by their peculiar construction render it entirely unfit for flight. The wings seem rather only fit to serve for the purpose of holding the body of the bird in equilibrium while running, and of preventing it from sinking to any depth into the loose sand of the deserts, which are the home of the ostrich. The natural colors of the ostrich feathers are white, black and gray, or rather a dark drab. They are, therefore, sorted according to their natural color, to be bleached white, or dyed in light colors, or to be used for dark shades. Practical men in the general dyeing business, and in garment dyeing or re-dyeing, hold that it is unnecessary to bleach, respectively strip, the material for dyeing dark colors, and garment dyers strip their material only to a certain extent, so as to leave upon it a bottom of color which they can advantageously use for their new dye. This method appears correct, if as "practical" as all that is designated, which results in a saving of expense or labor; but it is evident that a clear color of the highest possible beauty can never be obtained upon a bottom of a different hue; the bottom color will always, more or less, show and impair the purity of the topping color; but compound or mixed colors can be thus produced in an advantageous manner and to good effect, if the color of the bottom enters into their composition. The same is unquestionably the case with ostrich feathers, and the dyer is often compelled and must be prepared to bleach the gray or black and white feathers in order to dye them any light shade. The bleaching of naturally purely black feathers is probably but seldom required, as these are ordinarily left as nature has made them, but merely cleaned to heighten their beauty and gloss.

Owing to the delicate nature of the material, the dyeing of ostrich feathers bears much similarity to that of silk; both being high in price, carelessness and negligence in their treatment is apt to entail heavy losses. The utmost cleanliness of all utensils is an absolute requirement; dyestuffs, drugs and chemicals must never be added to baths in substance, but always in solution, and never while the material is in the bath; but the material must be taken up while the dyestuff or salt, etc., solution is being added to the bath, and only re-entered after stirring well. Solutions, as well as decoctions, must always be filtered, respectively strained, before adding them to the dye bath, even if they have been prepared beforehand, because any undissolved or solid particle of substance deposited upon the feathers would necessarily produce a spot or mark of a darker or lighter shade, as the case may be, according to the character of the undissolved substance. Although alkalies and heat are applied and necessary for washing or scouring, that is, cleaning and ungreasing the feathers, strong alkaline and excessive heat operating together are as fatal for feathers as they are for any other animal fibre,--wool or silk,--and strong heat applied to dry feathers is apt to irretrievably ruin them. The soap with which feathers are to be treated, must, therefore, be as neutral as possible, and if recipes speak of "boiling" the feathers, it must be understood in the sense as in wool-dyeing, that is, to apply a heat near the boiling point, when the baths begin to throw up bubbles, but not actually boil.

That the water used for any purpose in ostrich feather dyeing, for washing, bleaching, dyeing or rinsing, must be perfectly clean, needs hardly to be mentioned.

UTENSILS.

The utensils required for feather dyeing are of a very simple character, few and inexpensive. For small establishments an ordinary stove, a common wash-boiler, to have constantly hot water on hand, an ordinary wash tub, a white china wash-basin for dyeing, a clean board for starching and a few bottles, together with a small tin pan or kettle and funnel, for making solutions and decoctions and filtering them, is all that is necessary besides the work table. More recently, flat, oval upper pans, tinned for special purposes, have been introduced as dye-vessels, which are neatly provided with a moveable perforated false-bottom, and are heated either upon a direct fire, or a gas jet, or by direct steam. In large establishments copper pans are generally used, for the better grades of ostrich feathers especially, and for ordinary goods wooden tubs, both heated by steam. Where wooden tubs are used, several of them are set apart for the color most in demand, such as black, brown, gray, mode, etc.

PREPARATION OF THE FEATHERS.

The bundles received from the dealer being opened, the feathers are sorted according to color and size, and those for white and light colors, to be bleached, are laid from those of dark colors, which are ordinarily not bleached, that is, the black or gray ones. When going to work the feathers are put on strings, that is, they are firmly tied singly, about an inch apart from one another, and about an inch above the end of the quill, 20 or 25 with one string, seldom more, as they would make the bundle too thick and unhandy. The feathers are then ready for the steep, which operation ought always and for any method be the first step of treatment before proceeding to washing, scouring and bleaching proper.

For this purpose a strong solution of soap is made in boiling water; when cooled down to about 150° F., it is well stirred, the feathers entered and left in the bath over night. The temperature may be kept up over night. It is necessary, however, to lay the feathers down in the steep so that the liquid can reach every part of them, and to keep them well immersed in the steep, for which purpose it is advisable to weigh them down by clean sticks of wood or some other means. Instead of soap, soda may be used for the steep; taking about one and one-half ounces of soda crystals to one gallon of water.

By the steep the impurities, dirt and grease, covering the feather are loosened, and thereby the following cleaning operations materially facilitated.

CLEANING AND BLEACHING OF FEATHERS.

The ostrich feathers, like all material taken from the covering of the animal body, wool, hair, etc., which are embellished by dyeing for the use of man or woman in dress, contain by nature a certain amount of fat, and in their raw condition are more or less covered with dust, dirt and a greasy exudation, which must be removed for dyeing; that is, they are scoured or washed and then bleached or whitened, because the feathers, like all other so-called white animal matter, have always a faint yellowish tint, sometimes yellowish spots which cannot be removed without injury to the material, but obliterated by bleaching, which, in the case of white feathers, is called bleaching or whitening. The bleaching of gray and black feathers and the stripping or decoloring of dyed feathers are different operations.

For scouring or washing, novel methods are recommended, which, however, differ from one another very little, and are, on the whole, represented by the following: Prepare a good handwarm bath (100-120° F.), in which dissolve two ounces Marseilles soap in per gallon of water and beat up to a good lather. Enter feathers and rub them well, string for string, by hand. They may even be taken upon a wash-board and rubbed with a brush, which does not hurt them, notwithstanding their delicate structure, because the soap steep has given them great elasticity and resistance to the manipulation. Continue the operations until the tank is exhausted and dirty; then give another fresh bath of the same composition and temperature; treat the feathers as in the first bath and rinse them perfectly clean from every particle of soap in two or three luke-warm (100°) waters; for, every trace of soap remaining upon the feathers will hinder the dye from running up and cause uneven colors, or, upon white feathers, yellow stains. Then prepare a cold bath with solution of bioxolate of potash (one-eighth to one-sixth ounce of salt to one gallon), enter feathers, pass them in the bath for 15-20 minutes, take up and rinse them in cold water three to four times to remove the salt. For feathers which have to remain white, the latter bath is composed of one and one-quarter ounces bioxolate of potash and one and one-eighth ounces oxalic acid to one gallon of water, and the feathers laid down in it until perfectly white; when they are taken out and rinsed clean from acid in luke-warm water.

The feathers being rinsed clean from the oxolate of potash bath, if destined for white, are then whitened, or rather blued, for the purpose of covering the yellowish tint above mentioned. To this purpose a cold bath is prepared with only so much methyl violet or methylene blue, as to give the water a very faint tint. To ascertain whether this is the case, a white china plate is held about a foot below the surface of the bath, when its appearance will show the shade of blue that will be produced by the bath. The feathers are then entered and gently agitated in the bath until they have the desired tint.

DRYING OR STARCHING.

The feathers coming from the bioxolate of potash bath, after rinsing, or from the blue baths, are squeezed out by pulling them through the hand, and pressing them between the laps of a dry clean piece of white muslin, whereupon they are immediately passed through a bath of raw starch, that is, unboiled starch, consisting of about one-half pound of starch to a gallon of water. After passing them through the hand the feathers are then again pressed between the cloth; then the waves are lightly drawn by hand over the stems, and the feathers either beaten between the hands or upon a clean board over a stove until dry, or they are agitated by hand or by a suitable mechanical contrivance before an open fire or gas-jet, or hung in a warm room and frequently shaken until dry, that is, until all starch has dropped out; and finally the remaining starch is beaten out between the hands or upon the board by means of a soft brush. By this treatment the feathers are not only dried, but the flues opened besides. It needs not to be specially mentioned, that the feathers are dried, or finished, as it were, in the same manner after dyeing.

In case the flues are not sufficiently opened, although all the starch has been beaten out, dip the feathers into clean benzine and swing or agitate them until dry, which takes place in a few minutes, while the flues are opened in the most perfect manner. For white feathers the benzine may be blued, but in this case, they must be dried between muslin.

BLEACHING OR DECOLORING NATURALLY GRAY FEATHERS.

The feather dyer is often required to dye light colors upon naturally gray or even black feathers. As above remarked, the natural color would show even under dark colors dyed upon them to a greater or less extent, unless they are first decolorized, that is, their natural color destroyed or blackened. Much more necessary is, therefore, this operation for light colors to be dyed upon naturally colored ostrich feathers. The only known chemical agent affecting such a bleach to nearly white is peroxyd of hydrogen or oxygenated water. For bleaching ostrich feathers a bath is prepared of peroxyd of hydrogen to which so much liquid ammonia is added as to give the bath a sharp pungent odor. The feathers, which must be previously cleaned as above mentioned, and well rinsed, are entered and left immersed in the bath until they have assumed a nearly white cream color, whereupon the feathers are taken up and thoroughly rinsed or laid down in running water until every trace of ammonia has disappeared. It must be observed, however, that only acid aniline colors can be dyed upon such decolorized feathers and that in dyeing only a moderate heat must be applied.

Dr. P. Ebell, of Linden, near Hanover, one of the first and still largest manufacturers of peroxyd of hydrogen, writes on the subject of feather bleaching as follows: The assorted and picked feathers are cleaned from dirt and fat with soap and water by means of soft brushes, which operation is continued until the feathers (after drying) are readily wetted by water; when they are laid down for some time in pure water. The liquids are removed from the feathers by a centrifugal machine or a wringer (the latter is evidently meant for ordinary feathers, other than ostrich feathers). Mix in a clean wooden tub twenty litres peroxyd of hydrogen (Koenigswæter & Ebell) with four hundred and fifty grammes ammonia 20° B. (=0.9 sp. gra.) and heat to 34° C., by a leaden steam pipe at the bottom of the tub. Enter 5 kilo. cleaned feathers, which work by hand and turn every hour. In twenty four hours the bleach is completed. If pure white feathers are wanted, give a second bath, but for a shorter period. The bleached feathers are carefully removed from the bleaching bath and laid down, for an hour and a half, in a cold bath of one hundred litres water containing one hundred grammes sulphuric acid 66° B., and then completely lixiviated in pure, soft water. While moist (after squeezing) they are then passed through a milk of unboiled starch which is lightly blued with aniline blue or violet, and slowly dried, in the air or in a warm room, under repeated shaking to prevent the flues from sticking together. After removing the starch by beating, the feathers are ready for curling, etc.

PEROXYD OF HYDROGEN.

This most valuable bleaching agent is a contraction of hydrogen and oxygen, of the formula HO_{2}, sp. grv. 1.45 (chemically given), or 94.12 per cent. oxygen with 5.88 per cent. hydrogen. It consists in a limpid, syrupous liquid, of characteristic color, and when heated to 15° C., is decomposed into water and oxygen, upon which property its great bleaching power is based. Experiments to reduce it to a solid form by refrigeration and pressure have thus far been unsuccessful. The commercial article is somewhat modified by the addition of water to prevent its ready decomposition under the influence of a warm temperature. For the same reason it is advisable to always keep it in a cool place.

LIGHT BLUE.

I. To dye this delicate color well, special care must be taken in cleaning the feathers, for which purpose only olive-oil soap of the best quality, with a little ammonia, ought to be employed. When they are perfectly clean and no more grease upon the stems, rinse them first in one or two lukewarm waters, then in cold water until the last trace of soap is removed. Then fill your basin or dyeing pan three-quarters full of cold water; put in, for a dozen feathers, one hundred and eighty grammes (about eight ounces) of raw starch in a sufficient quantity of good indigo extract to give the starch-bath the desired shade. Enter the feathers and work them gently until they are completely dyed, that is, for about fifteen or twenty minutes. Then take them out, squeeze out the starch by putting them between the fingers and thumb of your hand, and shake them before the stove, or in a well-warmed chamber until dry. While drying, beat them from time to time upon the board, or between the hands to remove the adhering starch.

II. Prepare a lukewarm bath acidulated with a few drops of sulphuric acid, so as to give a faint sour taste, to which add, according to shade, solution of methyl blue B. (Actien Gesellschaft fuer Anilin Fabrikation, Berlin). Enter the feathers and leave them in the bath until cold, or until uniformly dyed.

NOTE.--Some dyers use alkaline blue, which is not, however, recommendable, because alkaline baths, as above remarked, are injurious to the feathers and must be avoided as much as possible.